The Best of Montana & Wyoming

6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 3

1 The Best of Montana & Wyoming

A mix of the rugged Wild West, the even more rugged Rocky Mountains, and a few almost modern cities—or what we might call overgrown cow towns— make the states of Montana and Wyoming a delightful vacation spot. This is especially true for those who savor outdoor adventures, but this is also an ideal region for discovering a part of the United States that many of us have only seen in the movies and on television (and that’s a rather distorted view). Here you’ll find some of the most breathtaking scenery in America; a vast array of wildlife that not only thinks it owns the place, but actually does; and even some first- class Western-style lodges, restaurants, and museums. Following are what we consider some of the best experiences in Montana and Wyoming, highlights to help you begin planning your trip.

1 The Best Vacation Experiences • Glacier National Park (MT): combination of wilderness, The best vacation spot in Mon- wildlife, and geothermal wonders. tana is also the most obvious one. See chapter 10. By the standard of other crowded • The Grand Tetons (WY): The national parks, this spectacular Grand Tetons are an excellent country is virtually undiscovered. short course in Rocky Mountain See chapter 4. parks for travelers with less time: • Yellowstone National Park magnificent peaks rising from the (WY): It’s the crown jewel of Snake River plain, alpine lakes, American parks, and it remains wildflowers, and wildlife, in a rel- the prime attraction in the Rocky atively small park that can be seen Mountains. This unique park in a few days. See “Grand Teton offers visitors an extraordinary National Park” in chapter 11.

2 The Best Outdoor Adventures • Exploring the Bob Marshall Bob Marshall Wilderness Com- Wilderness (MT): The 1.5-mil- plex” in chapter 5. lion-acre Bob Marshall Wilderness • Enjoying the Yellowstone Back- Complex in northwest Montana is country (WY): Outfitters from one of America’s most spectacular ranches around Yellowstone wild places. Lace up your hiking National Park will take you into boots, tie on your bandanna, and the deep wilderness that sur- take to the high country in Mon- rounds the busy attractions at the tana’s northwest corner. See “The park’s center, and there you’ll get a 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 4

4 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Montana

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flavor of the wild as rich as the backpacking into Bechtel Falls, Rockies can offer. If you have the telemark skiing the powder on experience, you can go on your Togwotee Pass. See chapter 10 for own—paddling Yellowstone Lake, details.

3 The Best Wildlife Viewing • Bear-Watching in Glacier at Glacier National Park is tough National Park (MT): The experi- to beat. With a little energy and a ence of watching wildlife run wild lot of courage, you can see grizzlies 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 5

THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING 5

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LOLO Canyon P DAKOTA NORTH Miles City o NATIONAL Ferry Harlowtown w Lake d FOREST Roundup e er r DEERLODGE iv R 1 R 94 iv NATIONAL e e 87 n r GALLATIN sto 59 FOREST ow Missouri NATIONAL Yell Headwaters St. Pk. BITTERROOT FOREST Ekalaka NATIONAL Little Powderville FOREST Billings 90 Bighorn Battlefield Ashland National Monument Big Hole Battlefield Bozeman 90 Hardin Nat’l Mon. Chief Plenty NORTHERN CHEYENNE 212 Coups St. Pk. CROW INDIAN Broadus BEAVERHEAD er Livingston RESERVATION INDIAN RESERVATION CUSTER iv NATIONAL R i 310 NATIONAL r FOREST BIGHORN CANYON 59 212 u 212 Tongue FOREST o NATIONAL REC. AREA ss River Biddle i Red Lodge CUSTER Bighorn Reservoir M MONTANA le Cooke City NATIONAL FOREST Lake itt WYOMING L SALMON NATIONAL FOREST 212 789 59 16 BEAVERHEAD 310 14 NATIONAL FOREST 90 SALMON Buffalo Bill State Park 789 BIG HORN 59 NATIONAL Cody NATIONAL FOREST 14 16 Gillette 90 CHALLIS 20 FOREST NATIONAL FOREST TARGHEE NATIONAL FOREST 16

and black bears basking in their the backcountry to find it. See natural habitat. See chapter 4. “The Bob Marshall Wilderness • Searching for Life in the Bob Complex” in chapter 5. Marshall Wilderness Complex • Spotting Wildlife in the Lamar (MT): Just south of Glacier, in the Valley (WY): You can see wildlife Bob Marshall Wilderness Com- in many parts of Yellowstone, plex, roam a full complement of including the meadows across Rocky Mountain wildlife— from the Old Faithful complex. although you have to wander into But the richest trove of wildlife is 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING Wyoming

89 Bighorn Gardiner Cooke City City MONTANA Lake WYOMING Mammoth 212 Springs Jct. 789 BIG HORN

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A NATIONAL o FOREST 14 N 310 r n A NATIONAL

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N i FOREST State Park 789 v O PARK e r MONTANAM Cody 14 14 Yellowstone 16 20 20 WYOMING Shoshone 16 Greybull Lake Lake East Entrance Buffalo Bill

IDAHO Y Reservoir (Open May 11–– er Lewis el iv lo Nov. 1) Lake w er R s v ll t i u 89 o R b Heart Lake n y e e e n r R o h G 191 i s South Entrance v o e (Open May 11–– r h Worland 287 S J GRAND o Nov. 1) 16 h n BRIDGER-TETON SHOSHONE TETON D . NATIONAL NAT’L Rockefell FOREST NATIONAL er Jr PARK Moran Jct. . M em (C . FOREST Hot Springs 89 lo Pk Teton se w d y State Park Village in w Moose in Thermopolis ter Dubois ) WIND RIVER 789 Jackson BRIDGER- Wind INDIAN 20 26 River RESERVATION 287 Boysen Boysen State Park TETON Reservoir 191 26 Pavillion 89 Ocean 189 Bull Lake Shoshone Lake 20 NATIONAL Kinnear 26 Fremont Lake Fort Washakie Riverton

287 BRIDGER FOREST Lander TETON 191 SHOSHONE Sinks Canyon State Park NATIONAL NATIONAL 789 FOREST 28 FOREST 189 r 287 ive er R wat Sweet Big Sandy Reservoir

Fontenelle Reservoir Big Sandy Rec. Area IDAHO 28 Fossil Butte WYOMING Nat’l Mon.

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r 191 e Kemmerer e 372 n R iv er Granger 80 Rock Springs Woodruff 189 Narrows Fork Flaming Reservoir 789 Gorge 430 191 80 Reservoir Evanston FLAMING Blacks 530 GORGE 20 mi0 NAT’L REC. AREA Baggs 0 20 km WYOMING UTAH COLORADO 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 7

THE BEST WILDLIFE VIEWING 7

90 Tongue River Res. MONTANA Gardiner Cooke City WYOMING 112 59 Devils Tower Sheridan THUNDER BASIN Nat’l 16 NAT’L Monument A BLACK HILLS

N GRASSLAND A NATIONAL

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Alcova 270 MEDICINE BOW Glendo 85 Reservoir 220 NATIONAL Pathfinder Fort Reservoir 77 FOREST Laramie 487 26

Seminoe Reservoir er Torrington Riv ie Lara m Medicine Bow 30 Wheatland Rawlins 287 287 Res. No. 2 Chugwater

k 25 ree Horse C N o Saratoga 80 r 87 th MEDICINE 85 P la Laramie t BOW te R Curt Gowdy i Cheyenne ve NATIONAL 210 State Park r 80 FOREST 30 MEDICINE BOW 230 NATIONAL FOREST WYOMING COLORADO 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING

in the park’s northeast corner, a the northeast entrance and Cooke less-traveled corridor that leads to City. See chapter 10.

4 The Best Winter Vacations • Skiing at The Big Mountain Ski can take a snowcoach into and Summer Resort (MT; the park, or cross-country ski & 800/858-5439): With lots of or snowshoe to the Lone Star powder, lots of skiing in the trees, Geyser and other attractions. See and plenty of runs for every level p. 305. of skier, The Big Mountain is one • Skiing at Jackson Hole Ski of the best resorts in the north- Resort (WY; & 307/733-2292): western United States. Better yet, Jackson Hole offers a vertical it’s still relatively undiscovered. drop that will take your breath See p. 136. away, and a variety of ways to get • Wintering at Old Faithful (WY): to the bottom, from double The chilly season in Yellowstone is black diamonds to intermediate increasingly popular, and it’s slopes. Skiers who like a challenge bound be even more so now that should come here and mix the the Old Faithful Snow Lodge has visit with some ballooning, tours been transformed into a hand- of the elk refuge, and other adven- some, comfortable facility. You tures. See p. 314.

5 The Best Hotels & Resorts • Many Glacier Hotel (Glacier • Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone National Park, MT; & 602/ National Park, WY; & 307/ 207-6000): The best thing about 344-7311): If you ever wonder Many Glacier, apart from its ele- whether there is really art in archi- gant mien, its friendly service, and tecture, look at the way the rustic its cozy rooms, is the setting, simplicity and monumental struc- along Swiftcurrent Lake and in ture of this inn make a perfect fit the shadows of Mount Grinnell just across the way from one of and Mount Wilbur. See p. 80. nature’s most astonishing cre- • Gallatin Gateway Inn (Gallatin ations. A lattice of logs climbs to Gateway, MT; & 800/ an 85-foot ceiling, and you can 676-3522): Very old-world, the find peace at one of the small writ- Gallatin Gateway Inn is a model ing desks in the upper balconies, of historic elegance from the days or join the convivial crowds of luxury railroad travel. The around the big stone fireplace. Spanish-style building, with its Corner rooms offer great views vast interior spaces, is large of the Old Faithful geyser. See enough to be a railroad station all p. 305. its own. See p. 232. • Rusty Parrot Lodge and Spa • The Pollard (Red Lodge, MT; (Jackson, WY; & 307/ & 800/765-5273): You can join 733-2000): The Rusty Parrot Buffalo Bill Cody on the guest manages to create the quiet, luxu- register at The Pollard, a historic rious atmosphere of a country inn hotel that proves you don’t need to despite a location in the heart of sprawl all over the place to set the Jackson. So you can enjoy the highest standard of comfort and amenities of the lively downtown elegance. See p. 242. and still escape for a relaxing 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 9

THE BEST BED & BREAKFASTS 9

evening by a river-rock fireplace, at the expansive breakfast. See or enjoy a tailor-made omelet p. 321.

6 The Best Guest Ranches • Triple Creek Ranch (Darby, MT; you can ride, hike, fish, or simply & 406/821-4600): This place is relax and eat in the popular wonderful. It’s pretty much the restaurant. There are bird walks perfect guest ranch, where guests with naturalists and forays into are pampered like European roy- Yellowstone. See p. 233. alty, and the prices reflect it. It has • Lost Creek Ranch (Moose, WY; all the traditional dude ranch & 307/733-3435): Positioned activities, or you can just swim in next door to a national park with the pool or work out in the fitness a beautiful view of the Tetons on room. See p. 110. one side and the Gros Ventres on • Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky, the other, Lost Creek layers on MT; & 800/514-4644): Lone the comforts and activities. You Mountain Ranch is a winter and can ride, hike, swim, fish, float, summer resort that has views into play tennis, shoot skeet, play bil- the Spanish Peaks Wilderness liards, and eat gourmet food. Area. In winter there are 45 miles Regulars return every year, and (73km) of cross-country trails there are only 10 cabins, but if over terrain that will challenge you can get a reservation, it’s every level of skier. In summer, worth it. See p. 325.

7 The Best Bed & Breakfasts • The Garden Wall Inn (Whitefish, has been beautifully restored. The MT; & 888/530-1700): This Italianate brick-and-shingle man- delightful B&B, built in the 1920s, sion is located in Helena’s historic is full of charm—all of the furnish- district, and you’ll settle on origi- ings are period antiques, including nal 1875 furniture under the eyes claw-footed tubs and Art Deco of portraits hung by the original dressers; and gourmet breakfasts owner, U.S. Sen. Wilbur Fiske include specialties like wild huckle- Sanders. See p. 158. berry crepes. See p. 139. • Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed • Copper King Mansion (Butte, and Breakfast (Big Horn, WY; MT; & 406/782-7580): This is & 307/674-8150): There’s lots to the lavishly restored home of orig- enjoy here: the 100-mile (161km) inal Butte Copper King William view from a secluded mountain- Clark, built in 1888 and deco- top; a rustic hideaway tucked rated in a plush “modern Eliza- amid the Bighorn Mountains that bethan” style. The ornamentation, features a massive three-story liv- from the frescoed ceilings to the ing area and rooms decorated with pipe organ in the third-floor ball- country quilts and lodgepole fur- room, reflects Clark’s love of opu- niture; and the chance to take a lence. See p. 168. wildlife safari and search for a • The Sanders (Helena, MT; glimpse of moose, elk, or ever- & 406/442-3309): Built in 1875, present deer that inhabit the area. this historically important B&B See p. 379. 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MONTANA & WYOMING

8 The Best Restaurants • Marianne’s at the Wilma (Mis- stalwart, still serving some of the soula, MT; & 406/728-8549): best food in the region, with deli- Chef Marianne Hoyt is a veteran cious game dishes like grilled elk of the Missoula restaurant scene, loin in peppercorn sauce, and and with each incarnation her fresh seafood flown in daily. See restaurants get better and better. If p. 327. nothing else, the decor—call it • Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room Art Deco honky-tonk—in this (Grand Teton National Park; restaurant makes it worth the trip. & 307/733-4647): The five- See p. 105. course dinners here (from prime • Buck’s T-4 Restaurant (Big Sky, rib of buffalo to smoked sturgeon MT; & 406/995-4111): This is ravioli) are so good you might be the place to experience what is distracted from the spectacular often called “Montana Food”— scenery just outside the window. game and beef, and lots of it. You may be roughing it in the Buck’s has an extensive menu of park, but you’ll need to dress game meats, excellently prepared, properly at this establishment. See and you can’t beat their char- p. 350. broiled steaks. See p. 234. • Nani’s Genuine Pasta House • The Dining Room at Chico (Jackson, WY; & 307/733- (Pray, MT; & 800/468-9232): 3888): Tucked away in the back of The vegetables served here are a low-rent motel, this might be grown at the resort’s own green- the best Italian cooking in house. The game is raised here, Wyoming (and Italian is the one and it’s served expertly, along with cuisine that excels here, besides beef, lamb, and other Rocky steak and beans). There is a menu Mountain staples. Portions are of classico dishes, then a second generous and beautifully pre- menu changed monthly highlight- sented. See p. 237. ing the dishes of a different region • The Blue Lion (Jackson, WY; of Italy. See p. 327. & 307/733-3912): This is an old

9 The Best Fly-Fishing • The Madison (Yellowstone, you can find good guides. See MT): Brown trout are not native chapter 8. to this area, but no one’s asking • The Snake (WY): It seems some- them to leave—on this popular how fitting that the menacing- river running from Yellowstone sounding Snake River is home to a National Park into Montana, feisty strain of cutthroat trout, they’re the big attraction. The making it one of the most satisfy- Madison eventually joins up with ing Western rivers to fish. With its “holy trinity” counterparts, the picture-perfect scenery and the Jefferson and Gallatin, at the Mis- resort town of Jackson within cast- souri headwaters near Three ing distance, this Wyoming river Forks, but a lot of anglers fish it is popular, but it’s still an angler’s around West Yellowstone, where paradise. See chapter 11. 6575-3 Ch01.F 4/10/02 8:52 AM Page 11

THE BEST PERFORMING ARTS & CULTURAL FESTIVALS 11

10 The Best Golf Courses • Old Works (Anaconda, MT): from any golf course in the coun- Jack Nicklaus has created a course try—except maybe the neighbor- that is as much fun to play as it is ing Jackson Hole club—with the beautiful to look at. The course granite Grand Teton looming over wonderfully integrates the rocky every shot. This Arnold Palmer bluffs, the historic nature of the design is not that long unless old copper-processing sites, and you’re foolish enough to play from prairie grasses and sage. See p. 163. the gold tees, but water comes • Teton Pines (Jackson, WY): You into play on nearly every hole. See won’t find a more beautiful view p. 324.

11 The Best Museums • C.M. Russell Museum Complex Museum is nationally renowned (Great Falls, MT; & 406/ for showcasing Montana’s best 727-8787): This is a spectacular artists, from Charles Russell to collection of the West’s best- Deborah Butterfield and Russell known and best-loved artist, as Chatham. See p. 249. well as other fine artists. The • Buffalo Bill Historical Center museum has many of Russell’s (Cody, WY; & 307/587-4771): original paintings and bronzes, An art museum, a firearm gallery, and includes a tour of his studio the memorabilia of the West’s and home. See p. 192. great showman, and exhibits • Yellowstone Art Museum about the Plains Indians comprise (Billings, MT; & 406/256- the finest museum in the Rocky 6804): The Yellowstone Art Mountains. See p. 359.

12 The Best Performing Arts & Cultural Festivals • International Wildlife Film Fes- healthy dose of range rhyme, there tival (Missoula, MT; & 406/ are arts-and-crafts shows, and 728-9380): This film festival has booths full of leather. See p. 201. become a required festival for • Grand Teton Music Festival international filmmakers who spe- (Jackson, WY; & 307/733- cialize in wildlife. It goes for a 1128): Under the energetic direc- week in early April, and includes tion of Eiji Oue, the festival gath- panel discussions and workshops, ers musicians from orchestras as well as screenings of the world’s around the country for a summer best wildlife films. See p. 96. program of classical music, mixed • Montana Cowboy Poetry Gath- with the occasional Duke Elling- ering (Lewistown, MT; & 406/ ton tribute. Top international 538-5436): Held each year in soloists appear, and there is a fine mid-August, this is a rhyming chamber-music program, too. See good time for the bowlegged and p.331. horse-drawn set. In addition to a