are content toenjoygoodwineandfood,relax inthegreat outdoors. házy inEisenstadt,theprovince’s smallcapital,Burgenland ismore aplacewhere people them. Althoughitdoeshave ahandfulofinteresting culturalsights,suchasSchlossEster- the roofs ofseveral –includingRust,oneofthenicestplacestoobserve townsnearthelake yourself fascinated byBurgenland’s charms. emerging inAustria, andaddaswampy,medievaltownsuchasRust,youmightfind National Park, paththatleadsintotheparkandthroughHungarybefore tackonabike re- ofitthatisnowtheNeusiedlerSee-Seewinkel the shallowNeusiedlerSeeandasection than samplinglocal and youhave region. ’s bestwine-producing Whatbetter waytospendanafternoon times, a year;couplethiswithrichsoilbaseandwinehistorydatingbacktopre-Roman itinteresting. thatmakes day’ aspect The province receives areputed 300daysofsunshine several timesinitsnatural history–mostrecently inthemid-19thcentury. with Hungary.Even the jewelinitscrown–NeusiedlerSeehasdriedupanddisappeared the contrary,itissmallandsleepy,inlarge aflatprovince sections situated ontheborder read about.Ithasneitherbombasticarchitecture andsoaringmountains. nordeeplakes On given bytourists,BurgenlandOften isallbutthe typicalAustria awideberth youhearofor Burgenland 188 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Stork-spotters will beintheirelementhere insummer,whenfeathered friendspopulate This is the kind ofplacewhereThis everyday isthekind life precedence, takes butitisprecisely this‘every-

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

POPULATION: 279,300 Swimming,splashingorsailing inthe Revelling inviewsfromEisenstadt’s Staringinto thefaceofmummified Cyclingata leisurely pacethrough the Sippinggoldenwinesandsuppinginoneof dler See Stations oftheCross Bergkirche tour of Roman legionnaire Constantineonagrand ( p197 ), ahaven forbirdlife SeewinkelNeusiedler See- National Park Burgenland’s pretty capital, across Burgenland Schloss Esterházy ( p193 ), Austria’s slurpingsteppe lake ( p191 ) after completingthe Weine Heurigen „ (wines)ina AREA:3966 SQKM ( p191 ) inthe 14) dotted (p194), Neusie- Heuriger

„ (winetavern) underawarm sun?Throw in HIGHEST ELEVATION: GESCHRIEBENSTEIN 884M Eisenstadt Neusiedler See National Park Neusiedler See- Seewinkel A21 S6 to 12,000years ago,andover theensuing lonelyplanet.com Hungarians andtheAustrian-Germans, the zonebetween soon becamea buffer the faceof Burgenland forever. Theregion the Hungariansin the10thcenturychanged thearrivalof andRomans.However, Celts permanently,includingthe Illyrians, settling millennia manypeoplestriedtheir handat (Soporn) and Eisenburg (Vasvär). (Bratislava), Wieselburg (Moson), Ödenburg district namesatthattime–Pressburg ofthe ‘burg’ thefourwestern suffix Hungarian empire at the endof WWI.It’ssonamed for ofinces, arisingafter thecollapse theAustrian Burgenland istheyoungest of Austria’sprov- History Bruck anderMur(73km) To Semmering(20km); (45km) To Graz STYRIA Hartberg Perchtoldsdorf Bad Vöslau BURGENLAND Klosterneuburg Neunkirchen The region some7000 wasfirst settled S LOVENIA Neustadt A22 A2 Mödling Baden Wiener A2 Fürstenfeld Gerersdorf Bernstein Lockenhaus Oberwart Bad Tatzmannsdorf Traiskirchen A3 S31 proders- Güssing Wulka- Forchtenstein Burg dorf B50 BURGENLAND••History VIENNA Schwechat Eisenstadt Airport Schwechat Sopron Mörbisch (884m) Geschriebenstein Breitenbrunn Oberpullendorf am See B61 Purbach am See Raiding AUSTRIA Klostermarienberg LOWER Rust St Margareten Szombathely N eu A4 sied 0 0 le D r S e a

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189 BURGENLAND BURGENLAND BURGENLAND and aratherbizarre church. Its nightlife hums a wonderfulpalace,coupleof goodmuseums number of have attractionsforvisitors, itdoes Haydn.Josef have itdoesn’t alarge Although dent, 18th-centurymusicianandcomposer best knownforitsmostfamousformerresi- The ofsmall capital Burgenland isperhaps % EISENSTADT land.at, in German. maps, orsimplylogontowww.bikeburgen paths. Localtouristoffices cansupplycycle withwell-markedand iscrisscrossed cycle the landscapeisflatorhasgentle rollinghills– (p193). Mörbisch with RustandBreitenbrunn, andIllmitzwith linkingPodersdorf ply theNeusiedlerSee, ered bybus.Fromlate ApriltoOctober, ferries nected tothecountry’strainnetworkare cov- Like therest of Austria,destinationsnotcon- Getting Around access tomuch of the province. provide quick,easyIts manyoff-ramps 190 (50km) To Vienna 1 3 2 EISENSTADT Burgenland isacyclist’sdream –much of 02682 /pop12,000 UGNAD • iesat BURGENLAND ••Eisenstadt asdrBggug...... A2 Haus derBegegnung...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hotel-Pension Vicedom...... Hotel Ohr...... Hotel Burgenland...... Schloss Esterházy...... Landesmuseum...... Jüdisches Museum...... Haydn-Haus...... Bergkirche...... Ricky's Cafe...... Main PostOffice...... Hospital &Pharmacy...... Eisenstadt Tourismus...... Burgenland Tourismus...... Haydnplatz 6 ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ

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% % BURGENLAND••Eisenstadt 719 3000; www.schloss-esterhazy.at; 719 3000;www.schloss-esterhazy.at; 62 2710;Ignaz-P-Semmelweis- ( ( % % ( % Schloss h 601; Esterházystrasse 26) 601; Esterházystrasse 673 90;www.eisenstadt.at, 0633 84-0;www.burgen 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, (castle)received h h 8.30am-5pm 9.30am-2pm) h tours 10am , region, and includes acollection of Roman plunges intothelocalhistoryof youdeep the h 45; Unterbergstrasse6; adult/student&child€3.70/2.90; Sat, 10am-5pmSun) 1-5; adult/student&child/family€5/3/9; Museumgasse www.burgenland.at/landesmuseum, inGerman; the esting museums: documenting Haydn’s life and work. hasastrongpermanentexhibition museum east of the the great formerresidence composer’s tothe & child/family€3.50/2.50/8; 21;adult/student 3900; www.haydnhaus.at; JosefHaydnGasse view awaits youbutafantastic over town. ofand notagaggle stone-throwing sinners feet; get tothetopof though, the‘mountain’, ofbe feeling theStations theCross inyour dungeon-like roomsandyou’llquite literally tohavethought crucified.Manage been allthe outsideJerusalemtain uponwhich Christis a bizarre representation of themoun- Calvary, small chapel andin1701wastransformedinto Apr-Oct) Haydnplatz 1;adult/student€3/1; Bergkirche Haydn’s reunited partscanbeviewedinthe until 1954thattheskull re-joined it. (in1932),butitwasn’t turned toEisenstadt The headlesscadaver re- wassubsequently museum. it endedupondisplayinaViennese grave shortlyafter hediedin1809,after which death. Hisskullwasstolenfromatemporary directive abouthispreferred residence after He alsorathercarelessly neglected togive any in Viennathathefinallytinkledhislasttune. former, beingaresident for31years, butitwas I wish tolive andtodie’.He achieved the he coulddowithastiff Turkish coffee.) the Turks.(He’s andlookslike inaglasscase infighting by PopeInnocentXIforservices Christianity andwasgiven totheEsterházys mified Romanlegionnaire whoconverted to of ‘Conny’theMartyr, Constantine amum- pleted theremains in1740andnowcontaining basisin nightly this hall. 1790, heconducted anorchestra onanear- employment bytheEsterházys from1761to after Vienna’s Musikverein). DuringHaydn’s rated thesecond-best concerthallinAustria, Just westof the For more onHaydn, visit Haydn was‘whereJosef thatEisenstadt said The white marble tomb that now contains The white marbletombthatnowcontains After thatyouviewthe 10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct). . Thisunusualchurch began life asa

( % Schloss 626 38; www.haydnkirche.at, in German; inGerman; 626 38;www.haydnkirche.at, andthe Schloss . Therecently revamped Landesmuseum h Jüdisches Museum The Landesmuseum TheLandesmuseum are twootherinter- 9am-5pm Apr–mid-Nov) h palace chapel Haydn-Haus 9am-noon &1-5pm h ( 9am-5pm Tue- %

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, BURGENLAND BURGENLAND BURGENLAND family-run hotel withnicelystyledmodern in theheart of town. roomsinanewbuildinglocatedcomfortable pension hasquite simplebutvery cleanand €195; 1; s €85-100,d€110-140,stefrom .at; FranzSchubert-Platz November). around StMartin’s day(late October& early dishes often ona theme,such asgoose seasonal ondecking anditserves seating around: there’s leafyoutdoor/undercover centre. Itsrusticrestaurant isoneof thebest ofrooms andwithinwalkingdistance the h 51; s€68-78,d€105-115,tr€150 ifyouwanttoparty stay all night. butobviouslyto everyone, not theplaceto caféarea.and ithasitsowngrassed It’sopen well run.Roomsare simplebutcomfortable pensionisspotless,veryaffiliated quietand 11;s/d€44/74; .at; Kalvarienbergplatz Vicedom 5;s/d€44/72; of accommodation. have atthetouristoffice acompleteStaff list Sleeping August. late der 1000Weine turesque forthe parkandthesetting 66-0; www.haydnfe stival.at) the mation contact Haydn Hall formore ortheBergkirche; infor- takeperformances. Mostevents placeinthe from chamber piecestofull-scaleorchestral international actsandfeatures anything much of attractsbothlocaland September, The endar is,of associated course, withHaydn. pointon The high culturalcal- Eisenstadt’s Festivals &Events the includes oneof thefew synagoguestosurvive permanent exhibitionsonJewish culture, and primarilyhoststemporarylatter and museum death maskof theHungariancomposer. The to devoted FranzLiszt,replete withawarty posters fromthe1920s.There’s alsoaroom equipment andsomeinteresting propaganda ancientartefacts,mosaics, wine-making 192 Behind thepalaceis Behind Hotel Burgenland Hotel Haus derBegegnung Vicedom Hotel-Pension Hotel Ohr Hotel lunch &dinner,closedMonSep-Apr) Reichskristallnacht ps Internationale Haydntage Internationale UGNAD • rudEsntd BURGENLAND ••AroundEisenstadt

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% a pic- Fest Fest 618 adult/student &child/family €6/5/18) a grandviewfromitsramparts,the castle’s (who stillownittoday)in1635.Apart from 14th centuryandenlarged bytheEsterházys wasbuiltinthe ing castles.Thisstronghold Vienna’s SüdtirolerPlatzdaily and Vienna;frequent direct leave buses from Bus isoneoptionfortravel Eisenstadt between Getting There&Away main street ishandyfor self-caterers. from its international cuisine. drink outsideinsummer,aswellafullmeal the &Sat) Fri 20, menus€25-45; steaks are a treat here. plus lambwithpolenta goulash toseasonal in town;culinaryclassicslike schnitzel and restaurant forsomeof thebest-value eating h courtyard. quiet market Austro-Andalusian restaurant witha of(saddle veal) are thespecialityinthisup- full-course menusfeaturing menus €44-65; Bodega LaIna Eating restaurant downstairs isopen all day. modern rooms.Thekitchen inthemidrange and defiesitsuglyexterior withcomfortable hotel isthebestofand seminar thecrop, castle in the area nottofalltheTurks). Its proudly tell youForchtenstein wastheonly the Turkishwars (thecastlecurators will Esterházys inthe of armourandweapons,portraitsof regal includean impressivehighlights collection student &child/family€7/6/20,treasury €9/8/27; 1;guidedtourofcastle&arsenaladult/ Esterházy-Platz Melinda ( southwest of Eisenstadt, Straddling adolomite spursome20km Burg Forchtenstein AROUND EISENSTADT (€14, 1¼ hours). orWulkaprodersdorf ther NeusiedlamSee butachange isrequired atei- Südbahnhof), Frequent trainsmake tripdaily(from thesame 6pm Apr-Oct) % A imesterházy Haydnbräu 8am-11pm) Schloss 02626-812 12; www.burg-forchtenstein.at, in German; 02626-812 12;www.burg-forchtenstein.at,inGerman; Spar Thisstylish eatery directly opposite

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( 10am-midnight Tue-Sat) % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 639 45;Pfarrgasse22;mains€6.50-16; 9am-midnight Mon-Thu &Sun,to2am 623 05;Hauptstrasse48;tapas€3-8, Ahnengalerie 628 19; Esterházyplatz 5;mains€17- 628 19;Esterházyplatz supermarket onthe Burg Forchtenstein Forchtenstein Burg andspoilsfrom (

(Ancestoral Gallery; (Ancestoral Gallery; €6, 1¼hours Kalbsrücken Tapas and h 10am- ) .

On weekdays four buses rundirectly fourbuses from On weekdays THERE&AWAYGETTING lection of jewellery and porcelain. Schatzkammer lonelyplanet.com t November). to to take yourpassport (pathopenApril stretchessection intoHungary,remember full circuitof thelake butasthesouthern cater welltocyclists.It’spossible todoa carry bikes andmosthotels andpensions reed beds,theferries crisscrossingthelake cycle trackwindsallthewayround the as there isno natural outlet. quality, is thatthewater saline hasaslightly attracts manyfamilies–theonly drawback with reed beds.Thelake’s shallownessalso side of thelake, asthewestern shore isthick best swimmingbeaches are ontheeastern and of touristsflocktothelake for enthusiast’s dream cometrue. Thousands from thenorthwestandyouhave awater mer. Addtothisprevailing warmwinds means thewater warmsquicklyinsum- The lake’s average depthis1.5m,which area isaparticularfavourite for nearly 300birdspeciesanditsSeewinkel reed beds,it’sanidealbreeding groundfor in otherareas. Ringed byawetlandarea of itmakesBut whatitlacksinheight, upfor second-largest steppe lake, isthelowestpointinAustria. Europe’s See, Neusiedler NEUSIEDLER SEE on aregular basisMonday to Saturday. from Vienna’sSüdbahnhof (€12,1½hours) German. ininformation, logontowww.wiesen.at, and range fromjazztoreggae. Formore hosted here are thebiggest inthecountry ofGlastonbury. Theseries summerfestivals summer, morphs intoAustria’sversion of the small townof which, duringWiesen About 5kmnorthof Forchtenstein lies Wiesen to Forchtenstein. (€4.40,30minutes)from WienerNeustadt (€5.10,40minutes) andthreeEisenstadt The area isalsoperfect for canbereachedWiesen bybusortrain sailing duringthesummermonths. The (treasury) arich contains col- NEUSIEDLERSEE••Rust cycling windsurfing bird-watching ; aflat

. from October tolate March. Ifyou’re over- town’s many thishistoryinoneofIt’s besttosample the rels andtodaythecorksstill bearthisinsignia. mark of origin fromRust)ontheirwinebar- display theletter ‘R’(adistinctive insigniaasa the emperorgranted localvintners to theright storks, thathasmadeRustprosperous. In1524 on chimneys it’s wine,not intown,although from rooftop roosts.Dozens of storksroost with each other,andclacktheirbeaksagitato months storksglidelazily overhead, make out feel onasteamy day, andinthesummer swampy hidden boatsheds,givingitasleepy, brims with Itprettiest towns alongtheNeusiedlerSee. isoneofRust, 14kmeastof the Eisenstadt, % RUST rate towns belowforspecific details. MörbischRust, andbetween and Illmitz. Podersdorf andBreitenbrunn, Podersdorf and ning of October;itcosts€6forferries between around 9amto6pmfromMay tothebegin- are provided byanumberof companiesfrom out cycleroutes around the lake. whichoffices, listsall the around €10to€15perday.Pickupacopyof town onthelake;shop inevery rental costs There isat leastone Getting Around enquiries. email for thelake region fortelephone, postand h .neusiedlersee.com; Obere Hauptstrafe 24,inNeusiedlamSee; price) and other perks. of publictransport(travel onferries ishalf- many inSopron),thenationalpark,free use swimming areas (including andmuseums (most do),which provides free admission to at issues thefree askwhethertheplaceyou’renighting, staying in a the lake, isaperfect wine placetosample best wines.Rust,onthewestern shore of of vineyards,producingsomeof Austria’s Bus connectionsare frequent; thesepa- see acrosstheNeusiedlerSee Ferry services Tourismus Neusiedler See To topitalloffthere are acres uponacres Much of the Neusiedler See closes down closes Much of theNeusiedlerSee 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) 02685 /pop1700 Radtouren Heuriger Heurigen, Heurigen . map,available fromtourist istheinformationcentre Neusiedler SeeGästekarte hasareed and seashore Radverlieh Radverlieh .

( % 02167-8600; www (bike hire) andmarks 193

BURGENLAND BURGENLAND BURGENLAND te town. the plushotelsing tasting, andprivate roomsin modern, clean rooms. forms partof thebathingcomplexandhas German; Dorfmeistergasse 21; s€55,d76-110; Dorfmeistergasse German; simn pool. swimming advantage of gardenand outdoor itssauna, three-comfortable and four-star rooms;take own bike orcar,Alexander isagreat dealfor of townandmore ifyouhave suitable your situated onthenorthernoutskirts Though .seebadrust.at; RusterBucht2;dm/s/d€17/33/60; families. for the bathingarea, thiscampsite isagreat place proximityclose tothelake andfree accessto large children’s playground,cheap bike rental, campsite peradult/tent/car€5.20/4/4; Storchencamp Sleeping The swimmingis very reedy. is 1kmdownthereed-fringed Seepromenade. adult/child perday€4/; Seebad; centuries. 16th church the12thand inRust,built between istheoldest opposite end of Rathausplatz, ( The ern endof Rathausplatz. (Haydengasse; point isfromthetowerof the can beheardtilllate August.Agoodvantage storks). Theclackingof parents expectant platformsonchimneys toenticethe metal (and theirkindly owners, whohave erected young, take fulladvantage of houses these town fromtheendof March torear their main squares. tractive onandaroundthe burgher houses pasthasleftalegacyof at- Rust’s affluent Sights &Activities Sun Aug&Sep) 9am-noon 9am-noon&1-4pmSatApr-Oct, Apr-Oct, later Fri Jan-Febalso 9am-noonFri &Nov-Dec,9am-noon1-4pmor 1, Rathaus; point of the village. thefocal to thetownhallandRathausplatz, from Conradplatz,asmallsquare thatleads 100m stopatthepostoffice, Postbus services Orientation &Information 194 round) % The Alexander &Pension Jugendgästehaus Ruster Access tothe 502; Rathausplatz 16; 502; Rathausplatz This HI hostel is right ontheharbour, ThisHIhostel isright ESELRSE • öbsha e NEUSIEDLER SEE••MörbischamSee tourist office tourist h h hasalistof winegrowers offer-

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dinner Wed&Thu,lunchFri-

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( ( % % 265; Hauptstrasse20;mains€6- 276; Am Seekanal 8;s/d€68/104; 276; AmSeekanal Heurigen Buschen

( % . They’re easyto 236; www.weingut h (smallbush) Notonlyis from 9pm) h It’s from -moerbisch.at) .com; Hauptstrasse23; Mon-Thu Nov-Feb) tonoon&1-6pmJulAug, to3pm Sun Mar-Jun &Sep-Oct, attracts some200,000peopleeach year. Its lonelyplanet.com three gates –reminders of theTurkish wars. and itis stillprotected by bastionsand compact centre isfilledwith squathouses other pretty townalongthe lake. Itssmall, 17km northof Rust,isan- Purbach amSee, % PURBACH AMSEE energy, jumpon the ferry. forgotten yourpassport,ordon’thave the circumnavigatingfor those thelake. Ifyou’ve Hungary, 2kmsouthof Mörbisch, ishandy ing facilities andgive youalist of and what’savailable, thefestivals, lakeside Mörbisch. St Margareten, around7kmnorthwest of festival held inanoldRomanquarrynear (www.ofs.at, inGerman; biggest competitoristhe August withthe frommid-Julytocally duringtheevening balconies. flower-strewn withhangingcornand whitewashed houses up arelaxed atmosphere inquaint andtaking minutes). Afoot-andcycle-only (€3.40,40 way toMörbisch fromEisenstadt The town’s sleepy moodchangesThe town’ssleepy dramati- The local Frequent buses pass through Rustontheir Frequent pass through buses the wayyou’llpass vineyards andplaceswhere youcantaste thelocalwine. Neusiedl amSeeandpedalsouththroughthevineyardstowardsnationalpark( p197 ). Along better fruitytaste. knownforUhudler,awinewithdistinctly whichisalsoathomeinsouthernBurgenland, althoughthisareatradition ofBlaufränkisch, is region andGermany. is arguably whose18th-centurypedigree thered here Blaufränkisch, predates itsarrivalinthe varieties have ahigherprofile,thearea’s reds are more unusual,andthefinestoflocal wines to the300daysofsunshineperyear,richsoilandexcellentdrainage. Althoughclassicwhite The wine producedthroughoutthisprovince issomeofthebestinAustria, dueinnosmallpart THE WINESOFBURGENLAND Nekowitsch they shrivel intheheat.The guruof are beingcomplemented by wines late forsweet ordessert grapes picked andshrivelled byfrost)andselected late-picking ( 02683 /pop2500 h One oftheeasiestwaystoexperiencewineinNeusiedlerSeeregion istohire abicyclein Burgenland,Middle especiallyaroundthevillagesofHoritschonandDeutschkreutz, hasalong Sweet dessert winesare currentlySweet dessert enjoyingarenaissance inAustria. 6am-10pm Jun-Sep, 8am-8pm Apr, May &Oct) 8am-8pmApr,May 6am-10pm Jun-Sep, , asummeroperetta festival that tourist office tourist can advise onaccommodation canadvise

( % NEUSIEDLERSEE••Purbach amSee h Seefestspiele Seefestspiele 02175-2039; www.nekowitsch.at, in German; Urbanusgasse2,Illmitz) 02175-2039; www.nekowitsch.at,inGerman; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, tonoonSat& 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, early Jul-lateAug)

( % 8430; www.moerbisch Opern Festspiele Schilfwein,

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isGerhardNekowitschfrom further than looknowine. aplacetostay, Ifyou need has informationonaccommodationand the edge of thereed beds, or Sat in month Apr-Oct) Sat inmonthApr-Oct) house thatcouldeasilydoubleasa house folk (€4.40, 20 minutes). Purbach passthrough from Eisenstadt am See find onits menu. seasonal pumpkin-plum chutney isone dishyoumay Roast venison withginger couscousanda initsvery rated highly restaurant. and served from thevineyardare producedorganically former monastery withamodernhotel. Wines vineyards (followFellnergasse), isasmall the northwestfringe of townlocated among €13-21; 2; s€63-70,d€96-130;6-coursemenu€75withwine,mains ( museum. ( per adult/child/tent/car€4.50/3/2.60/2.40,dm€19) ( Oct-Mar) to noon&3-6pmMon-Fri to noonSunApr-Sep, /purbach; Hauptgasse38; town’s walls. Kellergasse andKellerplatz, bothoutsidethe wander fromone d/tr/q €80/99/112) % % % it’s nicetosoakuptheslowpaceof life and – nor hasitdirect accesstoNeusiedlerSee While there inthetown– isn’talottosee Frequent dailytrainsheading forNeusiedl o The 55 64;www.tiscover.com/purbachhof; Schulgasse14; 5519; www.klosteramspitz.at, in German; Waldsied 5519; www.klosteramspitz.at,inGerman; lung 51 70;[email protected]; campsite Türkenhain; h tourist office tourist dinner Wed,lunch&Thu-SunMar-Dec) Weingut & Weingasthof Kloster amSpitz Weingut &WeingasthofKloster Camping Purbach&Jugendberge Camping , aconverted wine-maker’s to thenextalonghistoric Eiswein wine cellar h

( % . 9am-noon &3-6pmMon-Sat, Weingut Gerhard 5920-4; www.tiscover.at (winemadefrom Schilf

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BURGENLAND BURGENLAND restaurant. boards per hr/day €9/45, 2-day kite surfing courses€199) surfing boards perhr/day €9/45,2-daykite Sail where for theSüdstrand (South Beach), per day. Windandwater enthusiastscan head board, andpaddle/electric boathire is€6/10 withyourowncosts anextra€3.50,even ming, boatingand windsurfing. Windsurfing (adult/child €4/2; withalonggrassy ing onNeusiedlerSee, Podersdorf offers themostconvenient bath- Sights &Activities accommodation. Oct-May) 8am-noon &1-4pmMon-Fri, 9am-noon&2-4pmSat,SunJun-Sep, Mon-Fri, Hauptstrasse2; .podersdorfamsee.at; tions andareed-free locationby the lake. Burgenland), largely duetogoodwindcondi- destination inthe region (and Neusiedler See See the onlytownwhich cantrulyclaimtobe ontheeastern shore,Podersdorf is amSee, % PODERSDORF AMSEE bike trail Neusiedler See leads south. gears) where for€15perdayatthestation, the See; Bucsis Fahrräder orcalla from thetrainstation, Rust, change tothebus in Eisenstadt. Purbachpass through (€4.40,15minutes). For (€6,35minutes) Regular trainstoEisenstadt 15 minutes) andIllmitz(€5.10,30minutes). the lake, Podersdorf passingthrough (€3.40, travelHourly buses downtheeastern sideof Vienna’s Südbahnhof (€11,40minutes). p 2;s€42-67,d€84-104; www.rathausstueberl.at; Kirchengasse intown, If youdostay lake, aswellinformationonothertowns. 3-6pm SunJul&Aug) 10am-noon&2-6pmSat, 8am-6pmMon-Fri, Jun&Sep, May, Mon-Thu, 8am-noon&1-4.30pmMon-Fri Oct-Apr, 9am-1pm Fri cover.at/neusiedl.see; Hauptplatz1; springboard into the region. the mostaccessiblefromVienna,andagood istheregion’s largestNeusiedl amSee town, % NEUSIEDL AMSEE 196 Neusiedl hasgoodtrainconnectionsfrom Fairly regular (€1)gototown citybuses The town’s Neusiedl’s city (onthelake). It’sthemostpopularholiday

) 02177 /pop2050 02167 /pop5900 h has bright roomsandalovely hasbright midrange ( % ESELRSE • esela e NEUSIEDLER SEE••NeusiedlamSee Apr–mid-Oct) 0676-407 23 44;www.fun-and-sail.at, inGerman h

hasamapof thetownand ( % rents bikes to24 (withseven tourist office tourist 7.30am-6pm Apr-Sep) tourist office tourist 207 90;trainstation,Neusiedlam Rathausstüberl h h

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www.nordstrand.at, in German; Seeufergasse 17;boatsperhr Seeufergasse www.nordstrand.at, inGerman; fectly complimented by aglass of wine. mature trees andcountry ambience,isper- cooking around.Theinnergarden, withits someof thebestregional thatserves taurant plenty of shade from sweltering heat. ground isoneof thelargest aroundandhas €10; Sun Oct–mid-Dec &mid-Feb–Apr)Sun Oct–mid-Dec ultra-modern furnishings (includingglass recently renovated hotel hasaNewWorldfeel, pis 20;s€54-57,d€77-114; Seezeile nonia-hotel.at, inGerman; Don’t letthecat out, though. rooms withmodernbathroomsandbalcony. a quiet,homyatmosphere andsuperclean €26.50/53; Oct) per adult/child/tent/car€6.80/4/4.80/4.90; lake, hasmanysmallplaces to stay. the street leadingfromthetouristoffice tothe Book aheadforJulyandAugust.Seestrasse, Sleeping &Eating bike. of and €15perday,dependingonthecategory six placesaroundtownrent €7 forbetween lands, which about5kmsouthof start town– wet- theSeewinkel the perfect waytosee courses sailing (from €160). €14) courses; equipment forhire andoffers kite-surfing Vinothek represents 21wine producers in mains €8-19; uncomplicated ner) serves Austrian cuisine. restaurant (€12to€14,openlunch anddin- nexttotheferryright terminal andbeach. Its itoccupiesaprimespot cially popularbecause s €72-84,d€99-162; garlic pesto with tomatoes. onbear’s such asvenison carpaccioserved dishes an enormouswinelistandseasonal (meals €10to€20,openlunch anddinner)has hotel acrosstheroad.Therestauranta second area where children canplay.Theowners run doors tothebathroom)andalarge grassed Sat &Sun) Steiner Weinklub 21 Dankbarkeit Zur Seewirt Pannonia Hotel-Restaurant Strandcamping If youhaven’t already picked upabicycle– Right bythebeach, Right thispopularcamping rents boatsandholdsweekday outsailing h 9am-noon & 4-9pm May, Aug & Sep, 2-7pmFri- Aug &Sep, 9am-noon &4-9pmMay, ZurDankbarkeit isalovely oldres- p Surf- & Segelschule Nordstrand &Segelschule Surf-

( ( ) h % Set backfromthewaterfront, this Set % ) This lunch &dinnerMon,Tue, 11.30am-9pm Fri, 2790; www.steinergg.at; Seestrasse 33;s/d 2790; www.steinergg.at; Seestrasse 2415; www.seewirtkarner.at; Strandplatz1; 2415; www.seewirtkarner.at;

p ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

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( % Gästehaus % ) Four-star Seewirt isespe- Four-star Seewirt 21 170, Seestrasse 37;tastings21 170,Seestrasse 22 23, Hauptstrasse 39, Podersdorf; 22 23,Hauptstrasse39,Podersdorf; 2279; Strandplatz19;campsite

has friendly staff, hasfriendlystaff, ( This excellent % 2245; www.pan h (

% end-Mar- 23 20; tre onthenorthernfringes of Illmitz, the is surroundedbythenationalparkand Neusiedl andPodersdorf but onweekdays makeHourly buses thejourneybetween Getting There&Away ings and events. town andtheregion; itholdsregular tast- lonelyplanet.com enter anundulating landscapereplete with issoonforgotten asyouNeusiedler See Heading of south,theflat expanse the BURGENLAND MIDDLE &SOUTHERN (€5.10, two hourlybuses 30 minutes). byone-to- ferry (€6)andNeusiedl amSee in thecentre of Illmitz. 20; s/d€29/50) .tiscover.at/arkadenweingut-fam.heiss; Obere Hauptstrasse region. & SunOctober) &Nov-Jun,Sep 9am-noonSat 8am-noon&1-4pmMon-Fri, Sat, 9am-noonSunJul&Aug, 8am-noon &1-4pmMon-Fri 2-4; fice atits makes Staff foragoodbase. you thebestplacestospot local wildlife. cantell small displayontheecologyandstaff Nov-Mar) 8am-4pmMon-Fri Sat &SunApr-Oct, iedlersee.org, inGerman; Nationalparkhaus There are along viewingstands the way. bird-watching apairof youneed binoculars. byvisitors, sotoreallycessed get intothe explorations onfootor by bicycle. This isanexcellentarea for this anenchanting region for anexcursion. mering waters birdsongmake andconstant other wildlife. Thevineyards,reed beds,shim- tobirdsand wetland of importance immense NationalPark,Seewinkel anda grassland and istheheartofSeewinkel the Neusiedler See- % SEEWINKEL shore. western Rust (€6)andBreitenbrunn (€5.50)onthe minutes). Ferries connectPodersdorf with are infrequent ontheweekend (€3.40,15 Illmitz isconnected withMörbisch by The townof The parkhasitsowninformationcen- The protected areas cannot be directly ac-

02175 h ( % 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon&1-5pm 8am-noon &1-5pmMon-Fri, Arkadenweingut-Gästehaus 2383; www.tiscover.at/illmitz; Obere Hauptplatz canprovide informationonthe isalovely arcadedhomestead MIDDLE&SOUTHERN &Around BURGENLAND ••Lockenhaus

Illmitz, ( % h 344 20;www.nationalpark-neus 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 4kmfromthelake, bird-watching (

% . Ithasa 3345; www tourist of- tourist and concentrates its displaysonthe gemstone Jul &Aug, 9am-noon&1.30-6pm Mar-Jun &Sep-Dec) Hauptplatz 5;adult/child€5/2; .at, inGerman; Felsenmuseum more rusticdays.Inthetown centre is asmall modern-day livingandatimewarp backto retreat1199, isadelightful fromthestress of foundationsdate fromThe castle,whose niture, are toaccommodate guests. nowused which are tastefully decorated withperiodfur- Apr–mid-Oct; ( other towndominated byanimpressive centuries. 14th archaeological findsdatingfromthe13thand the monastery’s crypt,achamber containing with gasmasks.Take afew minutes to visit for warduringWWIandWWII,complete andintriguingphotosofstatues dogs dressed tion of dogparaphernaliaincludespaintings, €4/3/2/8; adult/student/child/family Klostermarienberg; .at, inGerman; Hundemuseum inEurope,the dog museum now-defunct monastery housingtheonly tiny village of furnished roomsand a sauna. s/d€65/100) .com/burg.hotel.lockenhaus; Lockenhaus Burghotel an Iron Maiden. impressive torture chamber, complete with such gruesome horrors an butstillcontains pleasure. of cleansed Thecastlehaslongbeen womenforherownsadistic mainly peasant reputedly tortured andmurdered over 600 terror earlyinthe17thcentury,whenshe she hasgonedowninhistoryforherreign of knownasthe‘BloodCountess’, Bäthory. Better accurately, foritsformerresident Elizabeth closedlate-Dec–Feb) to 4pmNov-Christmas, h adult/student/child€5/4/2.50; .com/burg.hotel.lockenhaus; famous forits Lockenhaus, inthe centre of Burgenland, is LOCKENHAUS &AROUND Croatian settlers canbe felt here. influence of long-resident Hungarianand still very much connected totheland; looked byvisitors andaplacewhere life is up inthedistance. It’saregion often over- lush hills,forested glensandcastlesthatrise % Bernstein Some 13kmeastof Lockenhaus isthe insideacastle,theIf youwanttosleep 8am-4pm Sat & Sun Mar, to 4pm Apr, to 6pm May-Oct, to4pmApr,6pmMay-Oct, 8am-4pm Sat&SunMar, 03354-63 82;www.burgbernstein.at;r€150-190; h p 2-5pm Sat&SunMay-Oct). , 15kmwestof Lockenhaus, isan-

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BURGENLAND BURGENLAND BURGENLAND waters atthe Asidesouth of the Bernstein. fromtaking the spa-townof the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake 16th centuryandatowerwith360-degree and Hungarians,strikingportraitsfromthe plentyofcontains weaponsfromtheTurks castle, which isamixof ruinsandrenovations, dramaticallyoverrises theriver andtown.The student €5.50/3.50; adult/child&434 00;www.burgguessing.info, inGerman; river. Here thearresting a peacefultownonthebanksof theStrembach 40km southof Tatzmannsdorf Bad to Güssing, If you’re notcastled-outbythisstage, head GÜSSING &AROUND weekdays. on ismanageableone hour,twiceeach weekday) one tothree hours) orLockenhaus (€5.90, (€4.30,30minutes, every hours), Bernstein Tatzmannsdorf (€2.20,5minutes; two every Oberwart (where there’s toBad atrainstation) one onSunday.Taking adirect busnorthfrom (€12.30,1½hours), butjust and Eisenstadt A coupleof direct connectLockenhaus buses this region, asbusconnectionscanbethin. You’re better off withyourowntransportin Getting There&Away Sat mid-Oct–Mar) 9.30-11am 8am-4.30pmMon-Fri, 11.30am SunApr–mid-Oct, Platz 3; ( century Burgenland. Thelocal filledwiththatched buildingsfrom19th- seum May-Oct) admissionadult/child€2/1; 14; Bahnhofstrasse; Südburgenländisches adult/child €17.50/12; 90; www.burgenlandtherme.at; AmThermenplatz1;daycard mined inthetown mid-19th century). anditslocalmining(itwasfirstserpentine 198 © LonelyPlanetPublications % If your body needs someTLC,If yourbodyneeds stopinat 03353-70 15; www.bad.tatzmannsdorf.at; Joseph-Haydn- 03353-70 15;www.bad.tatzmannsdorf.at; IDE&SUHR BRELN • Gsig&Aon MIDDLE &SOUTHERN BURGENLAND ••Güssing&Around h , asmallbutrewarding open-airmu- 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pmSat,9.30- 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, helps with accommodation. Burgenland Therme Therme Burgenland h h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun EasterMon-Oct) Bad Tatzmannsdorf

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