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Into the Blue – Western Australia

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Into the Blue – Western Australia WANDERLUST / AustraliaInto the From enchanting estuaries to pristine coastal waters, Perth in Western Australia is defined by bodies of water – each brimming with tales of its storied past and offering thrill seekers and nature lovers a gateway to 07 aquatic adventures. 19 Blue WORDS Kerry-Ann Augustin PHOTOGRAPHY Nicky Almasy IMAGES Getty & Destination Perth Over 200 wild bottlenose dolphins inhabit the waters of Rockingham, a picturesque seaside town 45 minutes from Perth City. 88 FOLLOW US ON 89 hite, wispy clouds dot it has been called for over 45,000 deep down into the tunnels of the Western Australia’s years. It is here that the Noongar Fremantle Prison – one of Perth’s bright blue skies, dreamtime reveals how Wagyl, most iconic landmarks, and Wfloating across a sun the Rainbow Serpent, fought certainly its eeriest. that is anything but forgiving. Yondock, the ancestral saltwater Sitting on a former limestone But the charming port city of crocodile, preventing it from hill, the prison – the state’s Fremantle – dotted with Victorian- entering the Swan River – marking sole UNESCO-listed heritage era buildings and artsy cafés – the separation of saltwater and building – was built in the 1850s welcomes the cool, briny breeze of freshwater sources. by convicts who were shipped to the Indian Ocean. Wagyl is more than just the spirit Fremantle from the overcrowded The sea breeze may have tousled who saved the Swan River; to the jails of Britain. Since its closure in my tresses but I couldn’t care less. Noongar of South West Western 1991, the prison, notorious for its From Fremantle’s fishing boat Australia, the serpent is believed to harsh treatment of inmates, has harbour – just 20km from the have slithered its way around the been open to the public who are capital city of Perth – the scenery flat land, crafting hills and gullies welcome to explore its grounds is worth every knot. Wild dolphins and creating lakes, swamps and and learn its history. Interestingly, flip playfully in the water, and rivers. Today, these water sources, beneath the gaol lies a water source seagulls skim the waves of the as well as Perth’s many beaches that once saved this new port city. shimmering sea, their squawks still hold as much significance as I’m sweating bullets – not from echoing the occasional honk of they do the promise of adventure in the physical effort of climbing small fishing trawlers. Australia’s largest state. down – but from the sheer horror Just down the road from the of looking 20 feet down with harbour lies a site of great spiritual Tunnel Vision “You good to go?” nothing below me, except for a significance to the Noongar my guide asks as she tightens trail of cascading ladders. The Whadjuk people – the traditional the strap of my helmet and safety trench gets darker and slightly owners of the Perth region – which harness. I’m a bit hesitant to chillier as I inch closer to the includes Fremantle, or Walyalup as answer. I am, after all, heading ground where my guide is waiting 07 19 1 90 FOLLOW US ON 3 2 with a punt that bobs gently. The of the Swan River are abuzz silence here is so deafening, I can with activity. Joggers zoom past hear the thumping of my heart as I parents pushing strollers, teens switch on my headlamp and steer race on their bicycles and serious through the narrow labyrinth of rowers glide along the river with limestone tunnels. graceful strokes. I decide to join “The prisoners had to dig the the Perthians by making a date tunnel by hand” my guide informs with Leonie Cockman – a local me. The Western Australian gold kayaking and canoeing guru who rush of the 1880s brought with it runs Water Wanderers, an outfit an influx of new settlers, many of that offers a refreshing view of whom entered the colony via the Perth, from the water. port of Fremantle. With the increase I’m a little nervous around water, 4 in population came an urgent need but Cockman teaches me the basics 1. Exploring the waters of Pinky Beach on for clean, drinkable water. Since the and assures me that there are no Rottnest Island is incredibly easy and fun prison sat on a natural limestone crocs in the Swan River! It’s a bit of using the SEABOB – an electric scooter aquifer, it was the one place that a challenge to manoeuvre at first that can go down to depths of 40 metres or cruise above water. 2. When on board could supply freshwater to the rest but within minutes, it becomes Mandurah Cruises, expect a feast of the of Fremantle town. almost effortless. Cockman leads freshest locally sourced crayfish, prawns, “The back breaking work of the way in a separate vessel, but salmon, octopus and fish. 3. A large pelican sits on a jetty at Rottnest Island. digging the kilometre long tunnel I take my time, rowing along the The island’s large and diverse ecosystems took more than six years. They had river and observing the beauty of are home to myriad species of birds, to do it with their heavy chains still Perth. Gleaming skyscrapers rise reptiles and marine life. 4. Kayaking along the Swan River in Perth is one of attached! Some prisoners never over heritage buildings while lush the most memorable ways to take in the saw daylight,” my guide adds. As greenery – from weeping willows beauty of the city. we snake through the maze of and peppermint groves to gum trees darkness, it makes me wonder – line its vast, manicured lawns. – how many stories will I find Of course, this wasn’t the sight submerged in Perth’s waters? of the Swan River Captain James Stirling came across 200 years ago. City of Swans As sunrise bathes Back then, the Derbarl Yerrigan as Perth in hues of amber, the banks it is known to the Noongar, boasted 91 1 3 thriving freshwater sources with few tours to choose from, but as a wetlands abundant with native self-professed glutton, I naturally shrubs and ferns. This may not opt for the Wild Seafood Adventure have pleased the European eye, tour – a three hour cruise on board but for Stirling, it was the most an ultra-luxe boat, equipped with beautiful sight he had ever seen. a barbeque grill, a large dining Stirling convinced the British space and a snug sundeck to enjoy government to establish the land as stunning vistas of Mandurah’s the first free settlement in Australia, pristine waters. prompting the ‘Swan River Mania’ We kick-off the journey with a that led many British families to little detour to the Indian Ocean, migrate with the promise of fertile, where I try my hand at catching 2 abundant land. lunch – Western Rock Lobster – a crimson coloured crustacean, 1. An expert instructor from Jetpack Perth shows off sleek moves on the Reel Community One of the native to Western Australian Hoverboard on Rockingham beach. The wealthy Britons who bought into waters. After successfully failing clean and clear waters here make it an Stirling’s dream was Thomas Peel at landing the bait in the right ideal spot for a variety of watersports including paddle boarding and jet skiing. – often credited as the person who area, the skipper offers a little help 2. Fremantle is full of trendy eateries and pioneered European settlement and by reeling in the catch. “If it’s not bars that offer a variety of fresh seafood. developed land in Mandurah, now fully grown, we throw it back into Boquerones & pepperonata pinxtos – vinegar-cured white anchovies with one of Perth’s most popular cities the ocean,” the skipper explains sweet peppers from Strange Company for anything water-related. as he pulls out a special gauge to is a seasonal must-have. 3. The guides at Sitting 72 km south of Perth, measure the crayfish. “That’s how Fremantle Prison take visitors on a mind- blowing journey through the limestone it is home to one of Australia’s we keep it sustainable,” he says, tunnels of the jail, dug by prisoners largest estuary systems – the Peel revealing the key to Mandurah’s 4. The boardwalk in the historic precinct Harvey Estuary. Abundant with century-old fishing industry. of Fremantle is a popular spot for people looking to savour fresh seafood with crayfish, crabs and fishes, the For the rest of the afternoon, I spectacular views of the harbour. area is also home to 130 species of cruise down the estuary, admiring birds. The best way to appreciate the dream homes that line this natural richness is to hop on Mandurah’s tranquil waters, and board Mandurah Cruises. The spotting schools of wild dolphins, award-winning cruise has quite a and large pelican ospreys. Later, 92 FOLLOW US ON Making I sink my teeth into the freshest tours – a brainchild of local lad a Splash catch of the day prepared by the Terry Howson. chef on board – from fillets of For years, Howson studied Perth offers lots to do barramundi, to sweet blue swimmer and interacted with bottlenose in and on the water! crabs, slivers of buttery salmon dolphins before opening his own sashimi, marinated octopus, tour company – a dream he had Enjoy the picturesque seafood skewers and of course, the harboured ever since falling in love Swan River in Perth City with the Little Ferry perfectly grilled crayfish from my with one of the world’s most social Company (littleferryco. morning catch. and intelligent creatures. Today, com.au). This electric ferry through Rockingham Wild takes passengers on a Rolling in the Deep Less than half Encounters, he shares the joy of round trip from Elizabeth Quay to Claisebrook an hour away from Mandurah swimming with dolphins in their Cove.
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