THE MALAYSIAN INVASION Malaysians Can’T Help Feting the National Cuisine, It’S Just Who We Are
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TEXT Suzanne Lazaroo feature ILLUSTRATION Vivian Loh THE MALAYSIAN INVASION Malaysians can’t help feting the national cuisine, it’s just who we are. Check out some passionate foodies flying the Malaysian culinary flag abroad – plus, exports that do us proud! HERE’S so much to with technique and given character For some, it’s opening a Ping Coombes, who wowed the judges Malaysian and South East Asian Malaysians who have really gone celebrate about Malaysian by a unique history. restaurant in a foreign land, like with her versions of wantan soup and dishes. Christina has been appointed places – our top national export, palm food. The sheer diversity, Little wonder then that our Bernard Yeoh, whose Kai Mayfair nasi lemak! the Malaysian Food Ambassador, oil, has found a home in kitchens all for one thing. The building delicious culinary heritage seeps in London serves up contemporary Others have woven their foodie under the Malaysian External over the world and become a popular blocks of the national into our very pores, runs through interpretations of Malaysian love into the ether of cyberspace – Trade Development Corporation staple ingredient in the food industry. T And home-grown company cuisine come from every major our veins and makes its home in Chinese cuisine. Kai Mayfair is chef and ex-restaurateur Jackie M (Matrade)’s Malaysia Kitchen ethnic group in the country, the our hearts. You can put a Malaysian possibly the only Malaysian-owned is based in Australia and has over initiative, and will also be promoting Brahim’s sauces and pastes are a Malays, Indians and Chinese, and anywhere you like, but there will restaurant to have a Michelin star a million followers on Google+, the country’s products, like Brahim’s way to take a bit of home with you on the smaller groups contribute come a time when nasi lemak glittering on its pennant. who tune in to watch her appealing and Lingham’s. your travels. Its subsidiary, Brahim’s their fair share too. (Hurrah for sounds its clarion call and the only The popular MasterChef cooking cooking demo videos. And then there is Chef Wan, Airline Catering, services 36 airlines Portuguese Eurasian debal curry, answer is: satu bungkus! competition has quite a few alumni Over in the United States, Penang- whose promotion of Malaysian food worldwide, and sometimes slips a Nyonya pongteh!) Flying the national foodie flag with a local link; the Australian born, California-based Low Bee Yinn overseas is more of a vocation than box of nasi lemak onto their fold-out There’s such a glorious borrowing on the international scene is almost instalment of the series has seen a set up the popular Rasa Malaysia anything else. He’s been at it for 40 tray tables. that goes on, with each culture second nature to many Malaysians, slew of competitors with a Malaysian food blog, and gets about 100,000 years, and his success as the country’s We’d like to wish all these making great contributions to form who share their patriotic culinary connection, including the ever- unique visitors a month. On the east first food ambassador is as much due wonderful foodies Selamat Hari the Malaysian foodscape. Every dish passions via their own kitchens. But popular, boy-next-door Adam Liaw, coast, Christina Arokiasamy teaches to his charisma as his food knowledge Merdeka. Keep up the great work is imbued with its own individual there are those who have taken it who won Season Two in 2010. The cooking classes at her Washington and cooking skills. guys! The country couldn’t hope for spices and herbs, touched lovingly several steps further. MasterChef UK 2014 winner is Wan home kitchen, sharing recipes for Finally, there are some other more delicious ambassadors. F 30 FLAVOURS AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 FLAVOURS 31 WAN LOVE N the beginning, there was After walking away from potential to be the next big thing in Chef Wan. an accounting career and the gourmet world, he adds. “When I Long before the celebrity getting an associate degree in I filmed my series, East Bites West chef was a thing, the effusive, Professional Chef Training and with Chef Wan in the UK, there was outspoken chap (real name, Hotel Management from the a Bite Challenge segment, where pretty much never used: California Culinary Academy and locals determined whether a local Datuk Redzuawan Ismail) was a Ritz Escoffier Diploma from the dish or a dish I cook tasted better putting Malaysian food on the Hotel Ritz Paris, Chef Wan realised – like curry puffs versus pasties, international map, and giving the the great appeal and potential etc. Twelve out of 13 challenges varied cuisine of the country a for Malaysian food on the world were won by my dishes, which face and voice. In 2007, he was stage, working extensively with just goes to show that our food awarded the Lifetime Jury Award Matrade, Tourism Malaysia (which really appeals to everybody. Even at the World Gourmet Food and appointed him its first official the most conservative Brits were Media Awards in Beijing; in 2009, culinary ambassador) and national loving murtabak and the rest!” he was named the Best Celebrity carrier, Malaysia Airlines. Apart from being drawn to the Television Chef at the Gourmand Drawing on his extensive fantastic flavour and wonderful World Cookbook Awards. contacts, he escorted many variety of Malaysian food, Chef His endearing, larger-than- Malaysian food companies and Wan is always amazed at its power life persona, and enthusiasm for chefs over to Europe, under the to unite – a power he would like to drawing on the larger cultural and Matrade banner. “At the time, see drawn on more. ethnic culinary map in his television not too many people were well- “That is what food is about, shows and cookbooks have won travelled and had international it is love, it is all about being him legions of fans the world over. contacts, so I took them over there together and eating together,” This love of eclecticism and a desire so they could build their brands,” he says, waxing lyrical. Which is to celebrate various cultures has says the chef. why fighting over food – whether always come naturally to him, Malaysian food has awesome debating its origins or using perhaps due in part to his own appeal, he feels, and he slipped into cultural and culinary differences mixed heritage: his father has Malay the role as the face of the cuisine to divide groups – is, in a word, and Thai blood, his mother, Nyonya because he had the knowledge “stupid” to him. and Japanese. and communication skills to share “One of the best things about Today, as he marks 40 years in his love for it. “And when you do our food is its diversity,” he says. the F&B world, Chef Wan shows no cooking demos, you have to have “Our nation is built on many signs of kicking back and relaxing. personality and charisma,” he adds. cultures and ethnicities, you Instead, he has just launched a new The long lines that form for his book cannot rewrite history. A part of Chef Wan, 55, cookbook to mark the milestone signings and demos are testament us comes from others, and that is celebrit y chef, (400 Resipi Terbaik Chef Wan: to his magnetism. something to celebrate. Eat and Meraikan Kegemilangan 40 Tahun To promote Malaysian food be happy. In Malaysian food, you Malaysia Pengalaman Kulinari) and is set to internationally is to create a can find love and peace – we have add to his Wan Market restaurant global brand, he says. “We need eaten together and lived side by chain, which serves up food from a consulting body of professional side for so many years now, and South East Asian countries. With F&B consultants to sell Malaysian we need to pass this on to our Yap Chee Hong the first already operating in restaurants overseas, to be children – celebrate each other’s Singapore, new Wan Markets will discerning as to who should get festivals, respect each other’s Chef Wan stands in front of a soon be opening in Malaysia’s financial help from the government differences, be proud because we specially-commissioned painting of his Cyberjaya, with Jakarta, Indonesia and to provide training,” says have so much.” grandmother; the mortar and pestle and Singapore’s Geylang area next Chef Wan. Now that’s Wan Malaysia she used is still in his kitchen today. PHOTOGRAPHY on the agenda. Malaysian food has amazing talking. – Suzanne Lazaroo 32 FLAVOURS AUGUST 2014 AUGUST 2014 FLAVOURS 33 It’s in her blood A diplomatIc AffAir ACKIE M is a chef, ex-restaurateur, Her kaya bread and butter pudding, HRISTINA Arokiasamy made her name through the peninsula on the way to their TV personality, cookbook and e-mag her take on the traditional dessert by giving cooking classes at her home destinations. When you taste a dish from J author, plus a proud single mother with a Malaysian twist, is exemplary in C in Kent, Washington, sharing unique Malaysia, you’re experiencing a melting pot of – to name just a few of the many hats showcasing how she has substituted South East Asian dishes with Americans game cultures coming together in one cuisine.” she wears. But the adage that the whole custard with a local delight folded within, for new flavours. It’s no surprise that this spice Christina herself is of the fifth generation of is greater than the sum of its parts holds to suit Australian tastebuds. merchant’s daughter – incidentally, the title of a family of spice merchants who settled in old true for her.