Note on Method

This analysis use primary and secondary source archival data. When possible, the analysis relied on primary accounts of survivors and participants to piece together the events. Many of these primary sources were in the form of published book length memoirs, Internet postings, and televised interviews by survivors. In some cases, secondary sources were used such as reports, stories from newspapers and television. For a more detailed account of meth- odology, including issues of reliability of this account, see Kayes (2004a).

171 References

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D. Christopher Kayes is Professor of Organizational Behaviour at The George Washington University, USA. His research includes 35 papers and numerous consulting engagements around the world. He has won several awards, including best paper in 2004 in the journal Human Relations for The 1996 Mt. Everest Climbing Disaster: The Breakdown of Learning in Teams. His paper Experiential Learning and Its Critics: Preserving the Role of Experience in Management Learning and Education was one of three best papers for 2002–2003 in the Academy of Management Learning and Education, nominated alongside Henry Mintzberg and Jeffery Pfeiffer. He received the “New Educator” Award from the Organ- izational Behavior Teaching Society for promise in innovative teaching and scholarship. He is International Visiting Research Fellow with the Centre for Management and Organizational Learning at The University of Hull. He holds an affiliation with the Sigur Center for Asian Studies and has taught in the Executive Leadership and Singapore Institute of Manage- ment Programs at George Washington. He has been affiliated with the Helsinki School of Economics and Butler University. His website is www.theoaktongroup.com.

179 Index

A E ABC News, 54 Edmondson, Amy C., 140, 141, 142 Abilene Paradox, 31 efficacy, 105–8, 122, 126 adaptation, 5, 88, 120–1, 126 Elmes, Michael, 73 airline cockpit crews, 121, 151 Erickson, Eric, 146 accidents among, 158–9 errors, human, 99–101, 130–9 Allen, Nate (Lt Colonel), 142 escalation of commitment, 46 American Mt Everest Expedition, ethics, xviii, xx, 6, 8, 28, 36, 45, 48–9, (AMEE) (1963), 29–34, 161–3 80, 123, 160 Andorra, 2 Everest, history of climbing, 13 Athans, Peter, 15, 22, 156–7 Experiential Learning Theory, xiv, 113, 115 B in teams, 122–4 Bales, Robert (Freed), 64–5 Barry, David, 73 F Bass, Dick, 12, 15, 17 Fischer, Scott Beidleman, Neal, 14, 19, 21–3, 54–60, actions of, 2, 19–23, 53–4, 57–8, 62, 86, 112–13, 153–6, 162 63, 73, 76, 102, 112–13, Bennis, Warren G., 165 115–18, 136, 156 Berkeley, California, 29 as leader, 18, 72, 84–6, 95–7, 123–5 Bion, Wilfred R., 55–7 131, 151–3, 165, 167 Blackfoot Indians, 155–6 death of, 2, 157 Bonington, Chris, 15, 30, 108 description of, 3, 14, 16, 17, 59–60, Boukreev, Anatoli, 19, 21–3, 54, 62, 66, 162 86, 97, 117, 153, 156–7, 162 Flight 93, (United), 116 Breashears, David, 15, 22, 60, 118, Ford Motor Company, 164 131, 138, 142, 156–7 Fox, Charlotte, 14, 156 British Expedition (1953), 133–4 Fragments,42 British Medical Journal, 104 Freud, Sigmund, 55 Brokaw, Tom, 18 Burleson, Todd, 15, 22, 156–7 G C Gabriel, Yiannis, 102 Cavafy, Constantinos, 42 Gardner, Howard, 165 Chen Yu-nan, 15, 19, 102 Gau, Makalu, 15, 19–23, 53–4, 60–6, Civil Aviation Board, 32–3 108, 119, 131, 139, 156, 157 combat teams, 144 Georgics, 42 conversation, xiv, 55–6, 95, 99–103, 117 Ginnett, Robert C., 159 cosmology episode, 82 globalization, xviii goal setting and goals D limits of, 36, 145–8 Druskat, Vanessa U., 105 narrowly defined, 6–7, 69–71, 80, Duckworth, Eleanor, 164 83, 87–8, 93

181 182 INDEX goal setting and goals – continued J positive aspects of, 35 Jangbu, Lopsang, 14, 58, 62, 86, 96, prevalence of, 4, 5 117–18, 153, 162 goal sharing, 106, 108, 122, 126 Johannesburg Sun Times,1,15 goalodicy as identity maintenance, 80–2 K definition of, 4, 6, 41, 49, 104 K2, 16, 54, 63–4 emergence of, 66, 86–9 history and entomology, 43–4 Kasischke, Lou, 15, 137 on Everest, 44 Katmandu, xvii, 51, 107, 139, 157 overcoming, 130–47 Kayes, Anna B., 122, 123 summary of, 6 Kayes, D. Christopher, 122, 123 warning signs of, 69–77 Kegan, Robert, 61, 62, 63, 146 see also goal setting and goals; Kilimanjaro, 72 leadership Kolb, David A., 115, 116, 122–3 Groom, Mike, 14, 19, 23, 53, 113, 156 Krakauer, Jon, xvii, xx, 14, 18, 22, groupthink, 31–2 54–5, 60, 72, 73, 96, 125, 145 see also Into Thin Air H Hackman, J. Richard, 152 L Hall, Rob leadership actions of, 19–22, 23, 58, 72–3, 118, as “not knowing”, 162, 164–5 136, 156 in cockpit crews, 159 as leader, 3, 52–5, 57, 62–3, 66, 75, complexity of, 61–3, 88 84–6, 124–5, 131, 137, 142, and face-saving behaviors, 74 151–3, 165, 167–8 and goals, 5, 47, 83, 86, 122, 151–4 death of, 113 interpersonal and task dimensions of, description of, 14, 16–18, 123 64–6 Hansen, Doug, 14, 20–3, 53, 75, 86, in Iraq, 142 137, 153 and learning, 135–6 Harris, Andy, 14, 19, 21, 22 limits and break down of, 52–3, 152, Harvey, Jerry B., 31, 32 161, 164,168–9 Herrod, Bruce, 1–5, 15, 22, 75, 168 High Adventure,12 limits of leadership theory, 33 high reliability organizations, 151, on Everest, 3–4, 55, 59, 63, 113, 158, 161 151,153, 156–8 higher team functioning, 108 paradox of, 65 Hillary, Edmund (Sir), 12–13, 15, 73, and power, 46 98, 133 reciprocal and sharing, 66, 113, 154 Hoey, Marty, 12, 15, 101–2 and storytelling, xix–xxi Human Relations, 56, 179 and vision, 154–7 Leander and Hero, 42, 45 I learning identity, 4, 17, 27, 33–6, 44, 51, 52, definition of, 161, 164 59, 60, 65, 74, 80, 82, 89, 103–5, from Everest, 169 145, 167–8 and goals, 146, 151–2, 170 Into Thin Air, xvii, xx, 14, 72 opportunities for, 142, 163–4 Irvine, Andrew, 13, 15, 133 role of conversation for, 99–100 Israeli Defense Force, 100 in teams, see team learning INDEX 183

versus performance, 114 P see also Experiential Learning Theory; personality, 29–30, 52, 59, 64, 151 proximal learning; TArT Piaget, Jean, 164 Lester, James T., 29 Pittman, Robert, 18 Lewin, Kurt, 95 Pittman, Sandy (Hill), 14, 18, 58, 62, Long Island Lighting Company 72, 74 (New York), 46 problem solving, xix, 5, 6, 88, 107, 108, 117, 120, 127, 132, 138, 139 M collective, 122, 126 Maclean, Norman, 81 proximal learning, 116–17, 125, 127 McNamara, Robert, 164 psychological safety, 101, 105–6 Madan, K. C., (Colonel), 15, 22, 139, see also trust 140, 157 Madsen, Tim, 14, 156 R Mallory, George, 13, 15, 132–3 Rasmussen, Jens, 135, 136 Mann Gulch, 80–3 recovery, as form of learning, 6, 130, Maslow, Abraham H., 61, 105, 134–40 146, 155 Risky Shift, 31–2 Mauduit, Chantel, 16 Roberto, A. Michael, 74 Messner, Reinhold, 15, 84 Royal Geographic Society, 4 Meyers, Patrick, 63 military S combat, 145, 164 Sashkin, Marshall, 154 hospital, 55 Sashkin, Molly G., 154 teams, 142–4 Schoening, Klev, 18, 21, 156 Schoening, Pete, 18 see also Israeli Defense Force; U.S. September 11, 2001, xvii, 116 Department of Defense; U.S. Seven Summits, 12, 15, 17, 18 Military Academy (West Point) Sherpas, 98, 118, 133, 157, 161, 163 Mills, Theodore M., 106 Simonson, Eric, 13, 15 Motor Carrier Act, 33 Staw, Berry M., 46 Mountain, The, 102–3 Stewart, Martha, 18, 72 storytelling, 45, 100–2 N Sundstrom, Eric, 97 Namba, Yasuka, 14, 21–2 surgical teams (operating room), 140 National Aeronautics and Space Swiss Expedition (1952), 133 Administration, (NASA), 158 National Transportation Safety Board T (NTSB), 158 tacit coordination, 6, 120, 122, 126–7, NBC, 72 130, 142, 147, 159–60 Nelson, Thomas, 107–8 see also team learning Nepal, xvii, xix, 19, 51, 70, 84, 139, 161 TArT learning, 116–19 Norgay, Tenzing, 13, 15, 73, 98, 133 task forces, 99 team learning O behaviors, 120–2, 126 O’Dowd, Cathy, 2, 15 breakdown of, 4, 59 Ortner, Sherry B., xviii, 64 definition of, 89,112–20, 152 O’Toole, James, 165 development of, 123–5, 129–30 Outside (Magazine), 14, 72, 73, 89 and leadership, 159 184 INDEX team learning – continued V rescue efforts as an example of, 169 Viesturs, Ed, 15, 16–17, 22, shared beliefs, 103–9, 122, 126, 27–8, 70–1, 83, 132, 134, 127, 129, 159–60 138, 156–7 see also adaptation; problem solving; Virgil, 42 recovery, as form of learning; Von Furer-Haimendorf, Christoph, tacit coordination; trust 98, 161 teams definition of, 95 see also task forces dependence in, 56, 84, 87 W examples of high performing, 116, Wagner, Robert, 102–3 121, 139 Weathers, Beck, 2, 14, 15, 18–23, 36, theodicy, 43–4 52, 53, 119, 139, 153, 156, Tibet, 84 157, 162 Tracy, Spencer, 102–3 Weber, Max, 43 trust Weick, Karl E., 81, 82, 158, 162 fostering of, 130, 140–2, 159–61 Weihenmeyer, Erik, 84 interpersonal trust, 95, 104–6, 108 wild land fire fighters, 80–2, 121, 126, trustworthiness and climbing,16, 41 159–60 Williams, Jim, 131, 158 U Wolff, Steven B., 105 U.S. Department of Defense, 164 Woodall, Ian, 1–2, 15, 59, 124 U.S. Military Academy (West Point), 142 World Bank, 164