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Shetland-Inseln 673 Übernachten auf den Shetland-Inseln 673 Vogelkolonie bei Sumburgh Head Shetland-Inseln Die Shetland-Inseln – das sind 100 große und kleine Inseln, die über eine Gesamtfläche von 1408 qkm im Nordatlantik verstreut liegen. Gerade mal 15 Inseln sind bewohnt, auf den übrigen tummeln sich die Robben und Möwen. „Inseln der Mitternachtssonne“ nennt man sie, denn im Sommer geht die Sonne erst gegen 23 Uhr unter und hinterlässt einen breiten orange-rosa Streifen am Horizont, um 2 Uhr wird es wieder richtig hell. Vielerorts kann man sogar um Mitternacht Golf spielen. Seit mehr als 5000 Jahren sind die Shetlands Dreh- und Angelpunkt der nordischen Geschichte, von Aberdeen, dem norwegischen Bergen und den Faröer Inseln gleich weit entfernt. Das milde Klima des Golfstroms macht sich auch hier noch bemerk- bar, immerhin liegen die Shetlands doch auf demselben Breitengrad wie Sibirien und der Südzipfel von Grönland. Pikten, Kelten und Wikinger fanden hier ihre Heimat, die Namen der Orte verraten Shetland-Inseln es noch heute: Ocraquoy, Saxa Vord, Oxna, Sands Stour, und die Liste ließe sich be- liebig fortsetzen. Shetland war fast 650 Jahre lang ein Teil der skandinavischen Welt. Erst 1496 übergab Christian I., König von Norwegen und Dänemark, die Shetlands als Hochzeitsgeschenk an Schottland, als sich seine Tochter Margarete Karte S. 675 mit James III. vermählte. Die Sprache, die heute auf den Inseln gesprochen wird, ist schottisches Englisch, aber sie enthält ungefähr 10.000 skandinavische Lehnwörter. „Setter“ bedeutet die Farm, „Kirk“ die Kirche und „Wick“ die Bucht (übrigens der Begriff, von dem auch die Wikinger abgeleitet werden, weil sie sich in Buchten versteckt hielten). 674 Shetland-Inseln Im Übrigen ist die Atmosphäre hier im hohen Norden weder britisch noch schot- tisch, sondern nordisch geprägt. London ist weit (genauso weit wie beispielsweise Mailand von der britischen Hauptstadt), Kilts sind unbekannt, und statt mit dem Dudelsack wird hier mit dem traditionellen Musikinstrument der Shetlands, der Fiddel, aufgespielt. Auch Ceilidhs sind eher die Ausnahme, aber beim Up Helly Aa, bei dem jedes Jahr ein Langboot der Wikinger in Flammen aufgeht, schlürft man den Whisky aus Wikingerhelmen. Man ist bemüht, eine eigene Identität zu wahren – dazu gehört auch eine eigene Flagge. Lediglich 24.000 Menschen leben auf den Shetlands. Demgegenüber wurden 330.000 Schafe hier gezählt, und in den Klippen erfreuen sich über 250.000 Puffins allgemeiner Beliebtheit. Anreise zu den Shetlands (Mainland) _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ •Mit dem Flugzeug Zum Südzipfel von Ltd., Kiln Corner, Ayre Road, Kirkwall, Shetland Mainland bei Sumburgh bestehen Orkney, KW15 1QX. ¢ 01856/885500, Flugverbindungen mit British Airways von § 879588, E-Mail: [email protected], Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen, Webseite: www.northlinkferries.co.uk Wick, Kirkwall (Orkney), Manchester, Bir- •Von den Shetlands (Lerwick) nach Nor- mingham und London (Heathrow und Gat- wegen (Bergen) Zunehmender Beliebt- wick) und anderen Airports auf der briti- heit, v. a. bei Urlaubern ohne Fahrzeug und schen Insel. Flugplan- und Tarifauskunft un- mit leichtem Reisegepäck, erfreut sich der ter ¢ 01950/460345, § 460520 (Shetland) oder Abstecher nach Bergen. Di morgens um 9 ¢ 0345/222111. Uhr am Fährterminal in Lerwick die letzten Terminal für die Inter-Island-Flüge zu den Shetland-Souvenirs kaufen, um 12 Uhr legt kleineren Shetland-Inseln ist der Tingwall die Fähre ab. Ankunft der „M.V. Norröna“ in Airport (Lerwick). Bergen noch am selben Tag gegen Mitter- •Mit der Fähre NorthLink Ferries verkeh- nacht. Einfach 52–72 £ im Pullmansitz (25 % ren von Aberdeen nach Kirkwall/Orkney Ermäßigung für Studenten), Auto 42–56 £. und Lerwick/Shetland sowie umgekehrt von Auskünfte und Buchung: Smyril Line, Lerwick nach Kirkwall und Aberdeen. Alle Holmsgarth Terminal, Lerwick ZE1 0PR. E- Fähren transportieren Passagiere und Autos. Mail: [email protected], Webseite: Kirkwall – Lerwick, hin/zurück Auto ab 90– www.smyril-line.com. ¢ 01595/690845, 148 £, Erwachsener 32–40 £, Kind 16–19 £, § 692287, sowie in den Shetland-Reisebü- Fahrrad frei. Kirkwall – Aberdeen, einfach ros und in der Tourist Information. Auto ab 142 £, 4-Bett-Innenkabine ab 20 £. Anschlussmöglichkeit von Bergen: hin- Rechtzeitige Buchung (v. a. für Fahrzeuge) in über zu den Faröer-Inseln (Fährhafen Tórs- den Reisebüros ist unbedingt zu empfehlen. havn) und anschließend nach Seydhisfjörd- Vor Ort können Sie buchen im Head Office, hur in Island (Smyril Line). NorthLink Orkney and Shetland Ferries Verbindungen auf den Shetland-Inseln ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ •Inter-Island-Flüge Die Flüge zu den oder Autofähren zu sämtlichen Inseln, die kleineren Shetland-Inseln Foula, Out Sker- mit dem Mainland von Shetland in Verbin- ries, Papa Stour, Unst sowie Whalsay und dung stehen, finden Sie unter der jeweili- Fair Isle starten vom Tingwall Airport (Ler- gen Inselbeschreibung. Die Preise für die wick). Sa eingeschränkter Flugplan, So kei- Überfahrt sind staatlich subventioniert, die ne Verbindungen! Flugzeit zwischen 15 und Kosten für den Transport von Autos liegen 30 Min., dann ruckeln die kleinen 8-Sitzer- deshalb nur bei ca. 4 £ (Papa Stour, Fair Isle Propellermaschinen von British Airways be- und Foula ca. 25 £). Wegen der oftmals be- reits wieder über die nächste Landepiste. grenzten Kapazitäten ist Buchung ratsam. Flugplan- und Tarifauskunft unter ¢ 01595/ •Busse Verkehrsknotenpunkt für öffentli- 840246 (Tingwall Airport). che Busverbindungen auf der Insel Main- •Fähren Informationen über Personen- land ist Lerwick. Busterminal gegenüber Übernachten auf den Shetland-Inseln 675 dem Fish Market (Commercial Road/Ecke Esplanade). Über 5 Hauptachsen fahren Busse: in südlicher Richtung bis Sandwick und (über Scalloway) nach Hamnavoe bzw. 10 km in nördlicher Richtung über Weisdale nach Sandness und (über Voe und Brae) nach Baltasound Mossbank bzw. Hillswick. Mindestens 5- Unst mal tägl. Busse nach Sumburgh. Abfahrt- Y e Gutcher sort einiger weniger Busse ist ausschließ- l Belmont l lich die Station Lerwick Sound. Vorher in der Tourist Information nachfragen. S o Fetlar Isle of Isbister Mid Yell Es bestehen keine regulären Busverbindun- u Fethaland gen auf den Inseln um Mainland! n Yell Esha d Weitere Informationen über Busverbindun- Ness Ulsta StenStenness gen zu den Inseln Yell und Unst sowie zu Toft Out allen größeren Orten auf Mainland finden Hillswick Skerries Sie unter der jeweiligen Ortsbeschreibung. St. Magnus Hamnavoe Bay Busgesellschaften/Coach Tours: Tages- Brae Laxo Muckle Roe und Halbtagestouren mit dem Bus bieten Whalsay Papa Stour ab Lerwick die Gesellschaften John Voe Leasks & Son (The Esplanade, Lerwick; Sandness ¢ 01595/693162, [email protected]) und Mainland Shalder Coaches (Lower Scord, Scalloway; Walls ¢ 01595/880217) an sowie auf der Insel Yell Whiteness R. G. Jamieson & Son (Moarfield, Cullivoe; Lerwick Isle of Noss ¢ 01957/744214, § 744270). Pro Person be- Scalloway reits ab 10–15 £. Hamnavoe Bressay Easter (Norwegen) •Pkw Je nach Aufenthaltsdauer ist abzu- (Norwegen) West Burra Bergen Quarf Bergen wägen, ob sich die Mitnahme des eigenen East Burra Pkw im Verhältnis zu den Fährkosten lohnt. Sandwick Mousa Die Straßen sind gut, wenngleich gewohnt St. Ninian's Isle schmal. Autovermietungen in Lerwick → „Adressen“. •Fahrrad Sehr zu empfehlen sind Fahrrad- Sumburgh touren, obwohl weite Teile von Mainland Shetland und die meisten übrigen Inseln S u s t m b u R o o hügelig und kraftraubend sind. Die Straßen r g h sind in gutem Zustand. Ein Unsi- cherheitsfaktor ist jedoch der Nebel, der Fair Isle manchmal tagelang ganze Landstriche in Fair Isle Stromness,Stromness, AberdeenAberdeen eine einzige Waschküche verwandelt. Stre- ckenweise weht ein kräftiger Wind. Fahrradverleihe → Adressenteil. Shetland-Inseln Übernachten Shetland-Inseln ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
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