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Madison County Historical Society MCHS News July 2013 Opening Doors to Madison County History Vol. 1, No. 4 January, 2013 Vol. 1, No. 1 NINETEENTH CENTURY 715 N Main Street THE EDWARDS TRACE Edwardsville, IL “Old Tales and New Discoveries” MADISON COUNTY RESORTS 62025 “Old Tales and New Discoveries” about Madison County summers may be the Edwards Trace, an old Indian trail and getting warmer, but one hundred years Hours: migration path that began in Kaskaskia and ago, residents still found it necessary to Wed-Fri 9 am - 4 pm led to present-day Peoria, will be the topic of Sunday 1 pm - 4 pm discussion, by historian David Brady on escape the heat. Those who could afford Group Tours Available Sunday, August 25 at 2 PM at the MCHS it, moved north during the hottest weeks Archival Library. of summer to resorts in or Free Admission Brady and other historians and . Others went to Europe for the archeologists have spent years documenting summer. Continued on page 4 evidence of the “trace” which ran through Museum Phone: Madison County. The location of the “trace,”  618-656-7562 an early word for road, influenced where Library Phone: early pioneers settled as well as the location 618-656-7569 of early forts such as Fort Russell. The road was named after Territorial Web Address: Governor Ninian Edwards after he led a MadCoHistory.org contingent of rangers along the trace to Fort Clark (Peoria) while pursuing a band of Kickapoo during the . Edwards E-mail: later became the third governor of and [email protected] is the namesake of the City of Edwardsville. The Edwards Trace served as the About Us: mainland route north for early pioneers who The MCHS museum were not using the Mississippi and Illinois Rivers for travel. complex, consisting of a modern archival The illustrated presentation will cover the library, the 1836 Weir historical background of the trace along with images of known locations on the trace House Museum and today. The program is free and open to the the Helms Collection general public. Center, is owned and operated by the non- profit Madison County JULY - AUGUST CALENDAR This wonderful new pictorial of Madison Historical Society with County, authored by MCHS Archival assistance from Sunday, August 25, Madison County. 2 PM - MCHS Archival Library Library Research Manager Mary Old Tales and New Discoveries Westerhold, has just arrived. A 10% The Edwards Trace member discount is available at the The Madison County Presenter: Historian David Brady MCHS gift shop. Although the book is Historical Society is a available elsewhere, the historical 501(c)( 3) charitable Continuing Exhibit society receives the greatest benefit organization. “If I Fall, My Grave Shall Be Made in Alton” when the book is purchased from us. We Lovejoy’s Journey from Minister to Martyr appreciate your patronage! 1 MCHS BOARD Gary Denue, Pres ARCHIVAL LIBRARY SPOTLIGHT Miriam Burns, Vice-Pres By Mary Westerhold, Archival Research Manager Arnold Meyer, Treas Cindy Reinhardt, Sec One of the more interesting many photos of their business and other Donna Bardon Norma Glazebrook donations we have received recently is a scenes in Marine included in the Mae Grapperhaus collection of material relating to the donation, along with family photos and Murray Harbke BRANDES family of Marine, IL. The family information. Petie Hunter material came from estates of Esther Russell Marti EDITOR’S NOTE Jeff Pauk and Edna BRANDES, two daughters of Researching local history is always Marilyn Sulc John and Mathilda ADLER Joyce Williams interesting but can also be challenging. Sue Wolf BRANDES. Esther and Edna never Beginning with this edition, you will find married and after their deaths, the “Mary’s Research Tip” on page 8. MUSEUM AND family material came into the But here's a tip from me. You can LIBRARY STAFF always count on the knowledgeable possession of a cousin, who donated it employees of the MCHS Archival Library Suzanne Dietrich to the Archival Library. The cousin felt Director and Museum for generous assistance. the information should be where others They will embrace your project and provide Mary Westerhold incredible insight into where to look next. Archival Research Mgr. could access it. Because the The archival library has many great LaVerne Bloemker BRANDES family owned a store in resources, but their best resource is the Archival Research Asst. Marine for many years, there were staff. Stop by sometime! Carol Frisse Archival Research Asst.

Karen Stoeber MUSEUM SPOTLIGHT Archival Research Asst. By Jenn Walta, Curator

Jenn Walta Curator A shaving horse discovered in the Coopers used froes as well as wooden basement of the museum is this month’s mallets to shave and form pieces of wood. VOLUNTEERS There are abundant and spotlight item. According to 1840 Census In order to make a barrel, basket, or cask, varied opportunities for information, 2,855 coopers worked within the cut staves (the individual pieces of volunteers at either the the confines of Madison County. Coopers wood that eventually form objects such as museum or the archival library. Please call if provided a valuable service to county barrels) were soaked in water until the interested. residents, wood became especially pliable. MEMBERSHIPS agricultural On this particular Several membership workers, since the levels are available to bench, the cooper those interested in baskets and sat on the flat end supporting the work of barrels that they of the bench with preserving Madison made were used County history through an his legs extended MCHS membership. to store and haul forward under the Memberships run on the harvested goods. bench. In order to calendar year, Jan 1-Dec These men secure a piece of 31. Applications are available on our website, made tubs, This wooden cooper’s bench or shaving horse was donated to wood, the cooper at the MCHS Museum or the museum by Mrs. Goddard in 1964. Make sure to stop casks, barrels, by the museum and check out this wonderful piece of Madi- brought the pegs at the Archival Library. and similar items under the bench son County agricultural and industrial history. on this artifact toward him. This

known as a “coopers’ bench.” The word would lift the large block of wood up PUBLICATIONS “cooper” was derived from “kuper,” the away from the bench and open the “vice.” MCHS NEWS lower Saxon word for tub. The bench, The cooper then placed a piece of wood to 6 issues annually also known as a shaving horse, was a be worked on between the large block and Cindy Reinhardt, Editor three in one tool for coopers. It pushed the pegs back towards the end of WEB SITE functioned as a seat, work bench, and the bench to lock the piece of wood in MadCoHistory.org vice. place.

2 RECENT MCHS NEWS ROUTE 66 FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERS NEEDED FOR Thanks to everyone who volunteered at PROBATE PROJECT Edwardsville’s Route 66 Festival June 8-9 at City We have started a new project at the Archival Park. The MCHS Route 66 map, shown below, was Library and we are SEEKING VOLUNTEERS! again a popular feature where festival visitors could Working with the Madison County Circuit Clerk’s add notes of their favorite sights along the historic Office, we are examining probate files from the early Mother Road. 1900s and extracting the wills for retention in the Madison County Circuit Clerk’s Office. The work is interesting as you discover history in the various documents and receipts of Madison County businesses nearly a century ago. Would you

like to help preserve Madison County Probate Records? Are you able to volunteer a few hours a week on Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday in a comfortable, friendly environment? (Hours are flexible!) For information or to volunteer, contact

Mary Westerhold at the Madison County Archival Library (618) 656-7569 or at [email protected] A MCHS program on Route 66 in Madison County, NOTE: If you have dust or mold allergies this scheduled for June 2, was cancelled when a severe is NOT the volunteer project for you. However, if storm knocked out power to MCHS facilities and most you are interested in volunteering at the Archival of Edwardsville. Library, we can find a project for you! COMING EVENTS A LOOK AHEAD: PROGRAMMING, FIRST SATURDAYS NEWSLETTERS & EXHIBITS LAND OF GOSHEN COMMUNITY MARKET

In November the newsletter will MCHS has signed on as hosts of a community feature nationally known individuals table at the Land of Goshen Community Market in of Madison County a century ago, downtown Edwardsville. Representatives from the especially those with names that might society will be at the popular farmers market on the not be recognized today. The MCHS first Saturday of each month through October. Museum has artifacts related to many of these individuals and welcomes The Land of Goshen Community Market is open suggestions of people to include in this 8 a.m. - Noon every Saturday from the second week issue. in May through the third Saturday in October. It is located on the 100 block of St. Louis Street on the The focus in January 2014 will be south side of the Madison County Courthouse. the three generation Kane family of Produce, plants, organic meat and artisan products architects whose work can be found are available at the market. throughout Madison County. If you can identify a building designed by Stop by the MCHS tent to purchase MCHS Michael Kane, Edward Kane, Sr., or publications, including our new pictorial history of Edward Kane, Jr. please contact Madison County. Volunteers will be happy to Cindy Reinhardt at 618-656-1294. answer questions about the Society and its collections.

Coming in September - History of Surveying

3 Continued from page 1 But for the vast MOELLENBROCK’S RESORT majority, in the days before air conditioning, There were many resorts over the years at Horseshoe Lake, but the most popu- local resorts and parks lar and longest lasting, were were the solution. The Moellenbrock’s, at the northeast corner cool breezes at country of the lake, and Bricker and Young’s resorts provided relief Horseshoe Lake Park, later called from the heat, as well as Stemmer’s. Stemmer’s was located a few miles west of Moellenbrock’s on the entertainment. north end of the lake. Illinois resorts, Founded by William Moellenbrock in Postcard of Moellenbrock’s beach area especially those 1875, Moellenbrock’s Resort was one of accessible by trolley or the best known gathering places along crappie and perch. The resort provided the shore of Horseshoe Lake. After an 75 rental boats for anglers looking for a train, were popular earlier building was destroyed by fire in productive morning, but the boats were with both and 1880, a new and also used by gentlemen offering their Illinois residents. The larger one was lady friends a romantic trip onto the lake. following pages will constructed. The A large boating dock was in front of the focus on the larger new Moellen- hotel. resorts that because of brock’s provided a Church and school groups, union ballroom for danc- picnics and other organizations often accessibility by mass es on the third transit attracted met on the grounds that included land- floor, five guest scaped trails and shaded picnic enormous crowds on rooms on the sec- grounds. Next to the picnic area was an warm summer days. ond floor and a open air dance floor where dances led bowling alley in the by local orchestras were held in the East of Granite City basement. The were two resorts on the summer. There was also an area for tavern and restaurant were on the rides and organized games such as northern shores of ground floor. Most guests came for the horseshoes, fat man races (participants Horseshoe Lake that day, and didn’t need over-night accom- had to weigh over 200 pounds) and wa- were also popular modations. termelon eating contests. Rose Marie fishing camps. Four Walker Bauer, who grew up on Walker miles north of Alton Island, remembers looking across the lake at the ferris wheel and merry-go- visitors flocked to round at Moellenbrock’s. Clifton Terrace on the Farther along the eastern and south- and in ern shore of the lake were club houses the eastern part of the owned by prominent St. Louis profes- county, Diamond sional men. There were a dozen or more Mineral Springs Hotel of these houses at one time, including and Health Resort in the Diamond Hunting and Fishing Club owned by the August Busch family locat- Grantfork was a ed along the south side of the lake. popular destination.  The “electric” car known as the “Yellow  Moellenbrock’s Hotel and Resort Hammer” brought residents from St.  Courtesy of Six Mile Regional Library Distr. Almost all Louis, Granite City and other destina- “Uncle Bill” Moellenbrock’s resort tions, directly to Horseshoe Lake. For Horseshoe Lake resorts special events that would attract larger sponsored a Friday encompassed more than 180 acres and accommodated thousands of guests on crowds, special trains were hired to night Fish Fry, but if any given weekend afternoon in sum- bring the visitors out to the resorts. In you wanted to cook mer. On one end of the resort was lo- the early years, a ferry then took visitors your own, there were cated the Moellenbrock Rod and Gun across the slough to Moellenbrock’s. Club for fishing and hunting year round. Later, a one-lane bridge allowed numerous places that Moellenbrock’s to send a bus for them. sold fresh fish along the Fishing was always good at Horseshoe Lake in those days, especially bass, Moellenbrock and his wife operated road to the resorts. 4 HORSESHOE LAKE RESORTS

when the family was living in Venice, IL. The business returned to family manage- ment by the early 1920s. The last of the Moellenbrocks to operate the business died in 1947. The resort was sold and reopened as the Pioneer House, which The bridge to Moellenbrock’s Resort did not have the reputation enjoyed by the Moellenbrocks. Several older resi- the resort until 1889, after which on-site dents reported that the Pioneer House managers were hired for a few years was a “cat house.” BRICKER & YOUNG’S HORSESHOE LAKE PARK

Another popular resort on Horseshoe many had electricity. Lake was known under several names. It It is unknown how many acres encom- began as Bricker and Young’s “Horse Shoe passed Stemmer’s Lake Side Park, but the Swivel Gun Lake Park,” in the 1880s then became facility was able to accommodate thou- Before state laws re- stricting hunting were Stemmer’s at the turn of the century. Like sands of people. One report in 1928 said Moellenbrock’s, this resort also had a hotel, enacted in 1918, William there were 5,000 Moellenbrock and other restaurant and tav- guests for commercial hunters at ern, outdoor dance “Hungarian Day out Horseshoe Lake would pavilion and facili- at Stemmer’s use a swivel gun to shoot ties for fishermen. Grove.” The event ducks and geese on the Both resorts were lake. Anchored in the was a Republican bow of a duck boat, the also often referred political rally spon- gun could kill or injure a to as Moellen- sored by the United hundred birds with one brock’s Grove or Hungarian Society. shot. The birds provided Stemmer’s Grove. Other stories tell of feathers that could be sold as well as meat for Stemmer’s had rowing contests and St. Louis restaurants. the advantage of other athletic The gun was eight feet being right next to events drawing long and if mounted in- the trolley stop huge crowds to the correctly would turn the and early newspa- Horseshoe Lake Side Park resort in addition to boat over. Moellenbrock pers reported the Also known as Bricker and Young’s or Stemmer’s the usual group hung the gun on the wall of his tavern where it sight of the train passing by on the way to picnics and individuals looking for a day in remained long after his Horseshoe Lake with fishing poles sticking the country. death in 1924. Here an out many of the windows. Visitors to the Picnics were an annual event for most unidentified man is hold- other resorts knew they had to be back to churches, schools and many other organi- ing Moellenbrock’s gun in this photograph pub- Stemmer’s by 7 p.m. or they would miss zations in the heyday of these resorts their ride home unless a special excursion lished in the November (1880s-1930s) and their demise is surely 13, 1937 Edwardsville train had been hired. Although it seems one of the many reasons the popularity of Intelligencer early, a 7 o’clock train allowed for visitors to  these resorts began to wane.  be home before dark in the days before     Moellenbrock’s was the setting for a short novel in the late 1880s called “On Both Sides of the Ocean” by Mr. H. Hart- mann of St. Louis, a son- in-law of Henry C. Gerke of Edwardsville. Copies of the book are difficult to obtain today. Dance pavilion (left) and entrance to Bricker and Young’s Horseshoe Lake Resort Photos courtesy of Six Mile Regional Library District

5 DIAMOND MINERAL SPRINGS Horseshoe Lake Today The Diamond Mineral Springs Health Although the Diamond Mineral According to Ferd and Summer Resort was located in Springs began as a health spa, the Kraft Strackeljahn whose fami- Grantfork, IL, 6 miles north of Highland. family expanded the facility to include ly has lived in the Horse- The mineral content of the waters was much more, some of which can still be shoe Lake area for sever- discovered in 1886 by Stephen Bardill, visited today. A dance pavilion was al generations, Moellen- who first established a crude system of added in 1892 and a restaurant/tavern brock’s hotel and restau- baths heated by the sun. By 1888 he had five years later in 1897. A hall for bowl- rant, which became the added the Windsor Hotel, a deluxe 40 ing and billiards was built, and a baseball Pioneer House, was de- room facility. Anton Kraft, originally hired diamond and camp-ground added. stroyed by fire in late fall Guests were often taken on of 1949. A Frito Lay facili- evening hayrides, to neigh- ty on Route 111 is now boring farms for barn dances on some of the Moellen- or, on moonlit evenings, for a brock property. drive through the countryside. Stemmer’s complex of The complex raised its own resort buildings was vegetables and had a grist mill eventually reduced to and cider press in addition to simply a tavern and res- a creamery for fresh milk and taurant in later years butter. Two ice houses, a known as Spuddy’s. That windmill, and waterworks also too is gone now as well contributed to the comfort of as most of the old club- their guests. houses that used to line The restaurant was known for the lake. The state began its picnic lunches, providing purchasing property thousands of them per year as around the lake in the mid as the hotel’s proprietor, pur- -1970s for a State Park chased the Diamond Mineral that now encompasses Springs from Bardill in 1892. nearly 2,000 acres, in- Three generations of the Kraft cluding the lake itself, family would own the resort Walker Island and most before selling it in 1954. of the shoreline property.  Advertisements in the early   1890s claimed the mineral wat- TRIVIA NOTES ers would cure “rheumatism, paralysis, nervous debility, skin In the early years of diseases, dyspepsia, kidney and the last century, it should bladder problems, etc.” An idea be noted that the owners of the popularity of the baths can of the resorts and fishing be seen from an advertisement camps were regularly in 1889 that said “over one thou- fined for selling liquor sand MORE baths have been Diamond Mineral Springs Hotel (top) and the entrance without a license, but taken this season than last. Baths to the Diamond Mineral Springs from the intersection of since they were outside Route 160 and Pocahontas Road were given on the second floor of city limits and the county the hotel where guests could modestly at the time did not sell prepare and take the baths without school and church groups, as well as liquor licenses, there was leaving the hotel. many businesses made use of the no legal provision for grounds. them to sell liquor. It be- West of the hotel was Diamond Visitors from afar, as well as local came customary for them Mineral Springs Park which consisted of residents, often arrived by train. The to be indicted at periodic 40 acres of landscaped grounds with flo- Clover Leaf railroad offered a round trip intervals, and there was wer gardens and fountains, shaded excursion rate of $1.25 from Edwardsville no negative connotation gravel walkways and a “reader’s glen.” to Alhambra where a “hack” from the attached to the indict- Chairs, swings, benches and tables for hotel would meet every train to transport ment. picnics were provided as well as a lake for boating, fishing and swimming. visitors to the Springs. Locals made day

6 Alton Evening Telegraph DIAMOND MINERAL SPRINGS June 1, 1929 (excerpt) trips for picnics or spent summer vacations also known for their “foot-high” pies. En- at the resort. The business was not open trees are ordered individually but meals “Louis Stiritz, the during winter months in the early days of are served family style with mashed po- builder of the Clifton the resort. tatoes and milk gravy, green beans, slaw, Terrace Hotel came to the United States in 1848 Today the restaurant and dance pav- pickled beets and fresh biscuits served ilion at Diamond Mineral Springs offer with homemade apple butter. They also to avoid serving in the visitors a good meal in a historic setting have a newer building (1981) called The German Army. He was where they have served their famous Back Porch with fine dining and space for educated as a travelling chicken dinner for over a century. They are wedding receptions and other gatherings. salesman and spoke four languages. He travelled through the East, South CLIFTON TERRACE and middle West seeking From the regattas that a spot which resembled time the rail- could be seen his old home...and in road built their from the win- 1852 he bought the old platform at Clif- dows of the homestead. ton Terrace in train and He at once set to 1889, the coun- steam boat work building the terrac- tryside location excursions es of stone up the steep along the Mis- from the Clif- sissippi River ton dock. Or- incline back of his home became acces- chestras were and started a vineyard. sible to great hired for the It took years of strenu- numbers of vis- Clifton Terrace hotels, restaurants, the 25 acre wooded picnic regularly ous labor to quarry the itors. The Bluff grounds and the terraced hillside are all visible in this picture. scheduled stone, grade and build Line railroad dances in ad- the terrace. was the owner of the wooded grounds in dition to other entertainment, similar to the In 1852 he started to the immediate vicinity of the railroad plat- resorts at Horseshoe Lake, i.e. dining, pic- blast out a wine cellar form. They expanded their facility, adding nicking, boating, bowling, and billiards. under the hill near his a dance pavilion and eventually a restau- .Louis Stiritz’s adjoining property on home, 30 feet long and rant/tavern. Clifton Terrace had a hotel that could ac- 16 feet wide. It was The line sold excursions to “the woods” commodate more than a hundred guests blasted from solid rock in early advertisements, but those soon who, before the Bluff Line, had to arrive by and arched with rocks, changed as the popularity of the resort carriage along rough roads or by boat. chiseled by hand into grew. The railroad hosted events to draw Stiritz moved to the area in the early 1850s wedges. The cellar was additional crowds to their picnics included Continued on page 8 completed in 1856. A year later he dug a well blasting out 21 feet of solid rock to get to a spring he knew he could depend upon. In the year 1874 the St. Louis Cement and Lime Co. built a plant at Clifton Terrace, Ill. mak- ing a cement that rivaled Portland cement. It was at this time Mr. Stiritz started the hotel busi- ness, boarding the men employed at the cement mill and serving The Stiritz family, Louis and his wife second and third from left, at Clifton Terrace. Photo courtesy of the Alton Museum of History and Art Continued on page 8

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Address Service Requested

715 N. Main Street Edwardsville, IL 62025

Continued from page 7 (continued from p 7) lunches and wine. He CLIFTON TERRACE was noted as a wine maker for many miles and established a large farm. After pur- Recognizing the potential of the beau- chasing the property he developed the tiful setting, he built the hotel for tourists around. hillsides along the Mississippi River into and quarry workers. When the railroad In 1889 the long came through, he renovated the hotel, hoped for railroad was painting it white and expanding the facility built and Mr. Stiritz gave to include a dance pavilion in 1891. them the right of way By the early 1900s the resort was be- through his property. In ginning to get a rundown appearance, but return they wanted to as new people arrived to build lavish sum- mer cottages along the river, the Stiritz name the town after Hotel was refurbished, and the resort busi- him, but he suggested ness restored. naming it for the cliffs Soon after the turn of the century, the and terraces.” Bluff Line’s tavern and restaurant, Clifton   Terrace Inn, was purchased by Stiritiz who  The Stiritz sisters. Photo courtesy of Alton operated both the hotel and restaurant un- MCHS Members Museum of History and Art. til his death in 1909. His daughters, pic- vineyards similar to those he remembered tured at left, ran the businesses until 1929. New & Renewing from his youth along the Rhine River in New owners in the late 1930s tore down April Germany. His wines became very popu- the old hotel and ran the Clifton Terrace Inn, a dining room/tavern for 30 years until Philip M. Corlew, Edw lar, even beyond local markets. it burned to the ground in 1968. Rebecca Pinkas, Edw Joanne Reitz, St. Louis MARY’S RESEARCH TIP Shirley Ritchie, Savanna, IL May Searching for your ancestors in a employed, and whether the individual Imogene Beck, Edw. town or city? Have you ever used a city owns the home. In addition, there is a Dr. Joseph Helms, Edw. directory in your research? separate street by street listing. Every address in town is listed by street with a City directories existed before phone Thank You! notation of the resident/business located  books, and have an alphabetical listing  at each address.  of residents. However, it is not JUST a Photos in this issue are listing of residents. While the infor- The MCHS Archival Library has from the MCHS collec- mation varies from year to year, the list- many of these directories on their tions unless otherwise ing frequently includes name of spouse, shelves. They can also often be found at indicated. number of children, occupation, where your local public library.

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