THE NEW WAVE VOLUME 28, No

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EXPLORING SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE WINES — VOLUME 28, No. 3 {2014} THE NEW WAVE VOLUME 28, No. 28, VOLUME 3 { 2014 } 22014-02-20 09:52 0 1 4 - 0 2 - 2 0

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_ RED AGING POTENTIAL E ST Signature Team - Mark out of 100 s WINE Drink now p a P Peñín - Mark out of 100 The aging potential is the potential lifespan of a wine if kept in favourable g n storage conditions. The year that is indicated for each wine represents 000 Drink now or keep e WS Wine Spectator - Mark out of 100

_ until year indicated P WHITE the year in which the wine will peak and display its full complexity. Quantity of bottles available o WA Wine Advocate - Mark out of 100 Favourite r Of course, depending on your personal taste, you may ﬁ nd a wine is ready t WINE Drink during the indicated u g IWC Stephen Tanzer - Mark out of 100 to drink well before the year indicated here. period of maturity a l _ S m a l l C o v e r . i n d d

No. BODEGA OTAZU No. BODEGAS VEGA SICILIA 22 PALACIO DE OTAZU ALTAR 2005 45 VALBUENA 5° 2008

No. VIÑEDOS DE PÁGANOS No. BODEGAS VEGA SICILIA 23 EL PUNTIDO 2009 46 ÚNICO 2003 JUVÉ Y CAMPS HERDADE DA No. GRAN JUVÉ Y CAMPS No. VIÑEDOS SIERRA CANTABRIA No. AALTO BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS No. MALHADINHA NOVA 01 GRAN RESERVA BRUT 2008 24 FINCA EL BOSQUE 2010 47 AALTO PS 2010 68 MALHADINHA BRANCO 2012 GRAMONA No. BODEGA CONTADOR BODEGAS ALEJANDRO HERDADE DA No. 02 LUSTROS III GRAN RESERVA 25 LA CUEVA DEL CONTADOR 2010 No. FERNÁNDEZ TINTO PESQUERA No. MALHADINHA NOVA BRUT NATURE 2006 48 JANUS GRAN RESERVA 2003 69 MALHADINHA TINTO 2010 BODEGA CONTADOR RECAREDO No. BODEGA CARMEN No. 26 CONTADOR 2010 No. CORTES DE CIMA 03 TURÓ D’EN MOTA No. RODRÍGUEZ MÉNDEZ 70 TOURIGA NACIONAL 2008 RESERVA BRUT 2000 49 CARO DORUM SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL 2008 No. BODEGAS RODA RODA I RESERVA 2007 No. JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS RAVENTÓS I BLANC 27 MARQUÊS DE BORBA RESERVA 2011 No. MANUEL RAVENTÓS No. BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS PINTIA 71 PINTIA 2009 04 GRAN RESERVA PERSONAL 2007 BODEGAS RODA 50 No. No. LUÍS PATO 28 CIRSION 2010 72 VINHA BARROSA 2009 No. TORRES No. BODEGA NUMANTHIA 05 MILMANDA 2011 51 NUMANTHIA 2008 No. BODEGAS MUGA No. ANSELMO MENDES 29 ARO 2009 73 PARCELA ÚNICA 2011 No. ÁLVARO PALACIOS No. BODEGA NUMANTHIA 06 FINCA DOFÍ 2011 52 TERMANTHIA 2009 No. BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS ARTADI No. NIEPOORT 30 VIÑAS DE GAIN 2010 74 REDOMA RESERVA 2011 No. ÁLVARO PALACIOS No. TESO LA MONJA 07 L’ERMITA 2011 53 VICTORINO 2010 NIEPOORT No. BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS ARTADI No. 31 PAGOS VIEJOS 2010 75 OMLET 2010 No. CIMS DE PORRERA No. TESO LA MONJA 08 SOLANES 2007 54 ALABASTER 2010 No. NIEPOORT No. BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS ARTADI 76 CHARME 2010 32 VIÑA EL PISÓN 2010 No. CELLER MAS DOIX No. DOMINIO DE TARES 09 SALANQUES 2010 55 TARES PAGO 3 2008 No. NIEPOORT No. FINCA ALLENDE 77 BATUTA 2010 CELLER MAS DOIX 33 MÁRTIRES 2011 No. No. BODEGAS ESTEFANÍA DOMINGOS ALVES DE SOUSA 10 DOIX COSTERS DE 56 TILENUS PIEROS 2003 No. VINYES VELLES 2010 No. MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA 78 QUINTA DA GAIVOSA 2008 34 DALMAU 2007 No. MAS MARTINET No. DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS No. DOMINGOS ALVES DE SOUSA 11 CLOS MARTINET 2009 COMPAÑIA DE VINOS 57 MONCERBAL 2011 79 ABANDONADO 2009 No. TELMO RODRÍGUEZ 35 MAISON M. CHAPOUTIER No. CLOS FIGUERAS EL TRANSISTOR 2011 No. DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS No. 12 FONT DE LA FIGUERA 2009 58 LAS LAMAS 2011 80 PINTEIVERA 2011 COMPAÑIA DE VINOS No. PRATS & SYMINGTON No. CLOS FIGUERAS 36 TELMO RODRÍGUEZ No. DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS No. 13 CLOS FIGUERES 2010 PEGASO GRANITO 2009 59 LA FARAONA 2011 81 CHRYSEIA 2009 COMPAÑIA DE VINOS No. QUINTA DO PASSADOURO No. CLOS MOGADOR No. No. BODEGA VIÑA NORA PASSADOURO RESERVA 2010 NELIN 2011 TELMO RODRÍGUEZ 82 14 37 PEGASO BARRANCOS DE PIZARRA 2010 60 NORA DA NEVE 2009 QUINTA DO POEIRA CLOS MOGADOR No. No. No. BODEGAS MAURO No. ADEGAS VALMIÑOR 83 POEIRA 2010 15 MANYETES 2010 38 MAURO 2010 61 DÁVILA L-100 2010 No. QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO No. CLOS MOGADOR ADEGA PAZOS DE LUSCO 84 QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO 2011 CLOS MOGADOR 2009 No. BODEGAS MAURO No. 16 39 TERREUS 2009 62 PAZO PIÑEIRO 2010 No. QUINTA DO VALLADO No. COSTERS DEL SIURANA 85 QUINTA DO VALLADO RESERVA 2011 No. BODEGAS VIÑAS DEL CÉNIT No. BODEGAS AVANTHIA 17 CLOS DE L’OBAC 2005 63 AVANCIA 2009 40 CÉNIT 2009 No. QUINTA DO VALLADO L’INFERNAL 86 SOUSÃO 2011 No. (COMBIER-FISCHER-GERIN) No. BODEGAS EMILIO MORO No. FINCA SANDOVAL 18 RIU 2010 41 MALLEOLUS 2010 64 FINCA SANDOVAL 2008 No. QUINTA VALE D. MARIA 87 VINHA DO RIO 2011 No. MAS IGNEUS No. DOMINIO DE ATAUTA No. MARQUÉS DE GRIÑÓN 19 MAS IGNEUS FA 104 2012 42 VALDEGATILES 2008 65 EMÉRITUS 2008 RAMOS PINTO No. 88 DUAS QUINTAS 22014-02-20 09:52 CELLER DOSTERRAS BODEGAS LUZÓN RESERVA ESPECIAL 2004 0 No. No. DOMINIO DE PINGUS No. 1 DOSTERRAS 2010 FLOR DE PINGUS 2011 ALMA DE LUZÓN 2005 4 20 43 66 - 0 2

- ESPECTACLE BODEGAS EL NIDO 2 No. No. DOMINIO DE PINGUS No. 0 ESPECTACLE 2010 EL NIDO 2008 COMMANDE.SAQ.COM 21 44 PINGUS 2011 67

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AT NOON COMMANDE.SAQ.COM 04 0 INTERVIEWS 1 ÁLVARO PALACIOS 08 MAKE YOUR SELECTION FROM MARCH 24, AT NOON TO APRIL 2, 2014, AT NOON TELMO RODRÍGUEZ 20 02 RECEIVE YOUR ORDER CONFIRMATION APRIL 4, 2014* 03 3 PICK UP YOUR ORDER 4 IN STORE INTERVIEW MID-JUNE 2014 DIRK NIEPOORT 38

Please keep a copy of your order form as well as a proof of transmission. Under no circumstances may products ordered by one customer be transferred to another customer. The SAQ will send all customers an order confirmation by email after their payment has been processed. From that moment on, neither reimbursements nor exchanges will be accepted. Please be advised that the various in-store promotions and discounts are not applicable to the products on sale in this Courrier vinicole. The complete conditions of sale and terms of product allocation are available online at saq.com/courriervinicole-en. * Limited quantities. If the demand exceeds the offer, a computerized draw among all orders received will be held before noon on April 2, 2014. Orders cannot be received between noon on April 2 and noon on April 4.

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For the first time in its more than 25 years of existence, Le Courrier vinicole has prepared a catalogue entirely dedicated to the Iberian Peninsula. This collection offers Spanish and Portuguese wines that are greatly sought-after by wine lovers from around the world. Find a top-of-the-line selection based on wine producers that are already well established in Quebec. They have shared their best wines, the latest releases and cherished rarities.

Several regions are featured including some of the best known in Spain such as IBERIAN PENINSULA Catalonia and its well-reputed appellations including Priorat with its sparkling Cavas, the Rioja and its eponymous appellation, Castile-Leon for its well-known Ribera del Duero and a growing number of other regions waiting to be discovered, such as Bierzo for its Mencia varietal. As a complement to these we also cover the white wines from Rías Baixas in Galicia. From Portugal we have covered the most popular regions including Alentejo and Douro which are growing in reputation for the quality of their mellow red wines.

To give you some inspiration when making your selections, this issue offers a reference to the Peñín Guide to Spanish Wine. First published in 1990 by José Peñín, Spain’s best-loved wine critic, it critiques nearly 1,000 wines every year thanks to a largegp and dedicated team. We also have a portrait of three artists and masters of the new wave of winemaking from the Iberian Peninsula, Álvaro Palacios, Telmo Rodríguez and Dirk Niepoort. These portraits offer valuable insight into these producers, their motivation and a little bit more about the country they call home.

The remaining pages of the issue are designed to help fill in the blanks, discussing Spanish and Portuguese wines that are made in the traditional manner as well as wines that are new and completely modern with an Iberian twist that are the very definition of the new wave of winemaking.

CONSU LT THE COMPLETE COLLEC TIO N LISTED IN THE BAC K O F THIS COURRIER VINICOLE AND ORDER FROM MARCH 2 4 , 2014, AT NOON, AT COMMANDE.S A Q .COM

01 MAP

FRANCE

RÍAS BAIXAS BIERZO NAVARRA VALDEORRAS RIBERA CONCA DEL DUERO DE BARBERÀ RIOJA

TORO VINHO VERDE BARCELONA DOURO MONTSANT TIERRA DEL VINO PRIORAT PORTO DE ZAMORA

MADRID

IBERIAN PENINSULAIBERIAN MANCHUELA DOMINIO DE VALDEPUSA MEDITERRANEAN VALENCIA SEA LISBON

JUMILLA ALENTEJO

ATLANTIC OCEAN N

02 ESTATES

Catalonia

JUVÉ Y CAMPS ...... 06

GRAMONA ...... 06

RECAREDO ...... 06

RAVENTÓS I BLANC ...... 07

TORRES ...... 07

ÁLVARO PALACIOS ...... 10

CIMS DE PORRERA ...... 10

CELLER MAS DOIX ...... 11

MAS MARTINET ...... 11

CLOS FIGUERAS ...... 12

CLOS MOGADOR ...... 12

COSTERS DEL SIURANA ...... 14

L’INFERNAL (COMBIER-FISCHER-GERIN) ...... 14

MAS IGNEUS ...... 14

CELLER DOSTERRAS ...... 15

ESPECTACLE ...... 15 Alentejo

HERDADE DA MALHADINHA NOVA ...... 36 Navarre CORTES DE CIMA ...... 36

BODEGA OTAZU ...... 15 JOÃO PORTUGAL RAMOS ...... 37 La Rioja Beiras

VIÑEDOS DE PÁGANOS ...... 16 LUÍS PATO ...... 37 VIÑEDOS SIERRA CANTABRIA ...... 16

BODEGA CONTADOR ...... 16 Minho

BODEGAS RODA ...... 17 ANSELMO MENDES ...... 37 IBERIAN PENINSULA BODEGAS MUGA ...... 18

BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS ARTADI ...... 18 Douro

FINCA ALLENDE ...... 19 NIEPOORT ...... 40

MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA ...... 19 DOMINGOS ALVES DE SOUSA ...... 42

MAISON M. CHAPOUTIER ...... 42

Castile-Leon PRATS & SYMINGTON ...... 43

COMPAÑIA DE VINOS TELMO RODRÍGUEZ ...... 22 QUINTA DO PASSADOURO ...... 43

BODEGAS MAURO ...... 23 QUINTA DO POEIRA ...... 43

BODEGAS VIÑAS DEL CÉNIT ...... 23 QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO ...... 44

BODEGAS EMILIO MORO ...... 24 QUINTA DO VALLADO ...... 44

DOMINIO DE ATAUTA ...... 24 QUINTA VALE D. MARIA ...... 45

DOMINIO DE PINGUS ...... 24 RAMOS PINTO ...... 45 BODEGAS VEGA SICILIA ...... 26

AALTO BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS ...... 26

BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ TINTO PESQUERA ...... 27

BODEGA CARMEN RODRÍGUEZ MÉNDEZ ...... 27

BODEGAS Y VIÑEDOS PINTIA ...... 27

BODEGA NUMANTHIA ...... 28 THE PRODUCTS ARE PRESENTED BY REGION

TESO LA MONJA ...... 28 AND DESIGNATION

DOMINIO DE TARES ...... 29

BODEGAS ESTEFANÍA ...... 29

DESCENDIENTES DE J. PALACIOS ...... 30 Galicia

BODEGA VIÑA NORA ...... 31

ADEGAS VALMIÑOR ...... 31

ADEGA PAZOS DE LUSCO ...... 31

BODEGAS AVANTHIA ...... 32 Castile-La Mancha

FINCA SANDOVAL ...... 32

MARQUÉS DE GRIÑÓN ...... 33 Murcia

BODEGAS LUZÓN ...... 33

BODEGAS EL NIDO ...... 33

03 SPAIN

04 Spain covers the largest share of the Iberian Peninsula. An important player in the European Union, it has over 46 million inhabitants centred mostly in its largest cities, which include Barcelona, Valencia and the capital city of Madrid. Its climate varies greatly, allowing a wide array of often indigenous varietals to provide the means to produce a great number of unique wines that puts it in third SPAIN SPAIN place for European wine production.

Modern Spanish winemaking is light years ahead of the rustic wines that it produced just a few years ago. This transformation has come about thanks in part to the construction and renovation of cellars but more importantly, thanks to a new approach to winemaking. In truth, it is the know-how of talented winemakers that has allowed them to redefine themselves as the producers of truly elegant wines.

Our selection offers 67 Spanish wines from seven regions including truly fantastic red wines from well-reputed producers such as Clos Mogador, Álvaro Palacios, Bodega Contador, Bodegas y Viñedos Artadi, Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Dominio de Pingus and many more. We also have some magnificent sparkling wines produced in the purest of tradition in addition to some splendid whites from appellations such as Rías Baixas, Rioja and Priorat.

05 CAVA

Though their first sparkling wines only date The Batlle family grew vines in the early In 1924, Josep Mata Capellades produced his back to 1921, the history of winemaking on this 19th century but it wasn’t until 1881 that they first Cava and founded his bodega named in estate goes as far back as 1796. Juvé y Camps began to produce their own wines. In 1913, the honour of his father, Recaredo Mata Figueres. is located in the heart of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, marriage between Pilar Batlle and Bartomeu Today, Ton Mata, third-generation winemaker, 50 km southwest of Barcelona—a region known Gramona began a wind of change and just a few is the skillful head of this family estate that has for being the epicentre of Spanish sparkling short years later in 1921, they began producing made its reputation with long maturation on wine. The estate has been handed down within Cava, the sparkling wine made using traditional lees, a technique they use for all their Cavas. the family for three generations and it has methods in the heart of the Penedès. Today, The entire production is based on the property’s earned itself a reputation as a producer of the their grandsons Jaume (oenologist) and Xavier 50 hectares of vines where all the grapes finest Cava. Just like champagne, Cava is bottle (in charge of commercial production) are the are hand-harvested and have been certified fermented to capture the carbonation naturally. fifth generation of the Gramona family to lead biodynamic since 2010. The entire harvest Juvé y Camps produces seven Cavas from the the estate. The Batlle cellars were completely comes from the capital of Cava, the Sant five properties that it owns. The estate’s repu- renovated in 2001 and are a model for sustain- Sadurní d’Anoia region. Preferring to keep tation is built on elegance, and, in a sense, it able development. The soil and vines are all their interventions to a minimum in both the is also the story of this pioneering family from worked using the most natural means possible fields and in the cellars, their Cavas are never the Penedès. and no herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers dosed or acidified, and they are all turned and are used. In 2006, the estate celebrated the disgorged by hand before being put up for sale. 125th anniversary of its founding, and it The biggest names in Champagne are on par continues to be a leader in the region to this day. with this selection. 01 02 03 GRAN JUVÉ Y CAMPS LUSTROS III GRAN RESERVA TURÓ D’EN MOTA GRAN RESERVA BRUT 2008 BRUT NATURE 2006 RESERVA BRUT 2000 SPAIN “Produced only during the best harvest “This Brut Nature (no dosage) marries 70% “The 2000 Turó D’En Mota is 100% Xarel-lo years, this Cava is made from the traditional Xarel-lo with 30% Macabeu. These traditional sourced from a single vineyard planted in 1940. varietals of Macabeu, Xarel-lo, Parellada and varieties are mostly grown on the vineyard of It was fermented in oak where it remained for Chardonnay and is aged on fine lees for La Plana, which covers less than 3 hectares 3.5 months with weekly batonnage. The first 42 months. Rich and seductive, this wine and is located at an altitude of 130 meters, disgorging was in 2009 so the wine remained shines with aromas of pears, almonds, peaches and the vineyard of El Moliner. Elaborated on lees for over 100 months with no dosage. and very ripe, white-fleshed fruit. Simply using the most traditional methods (manual It is an earthy, terroir-driven sparkling wine superb, the mouth displays subtle hints turning and disgorging, use of cork stopper with mouth-filling fruit, elegance and power of smoke and mint, all with an enveloping, during aging), the cuvée spent seven years hand in hand. Savory flavors and great balance almost creamy texture and remarkable long on lees before reaching the market. More make for a superb sparkling wine.” finish. This is definitely a splendid Cava.” than a must-have from the estate, this wine — www.erobertparker.com is a prime example of the region.” — Signature Team — Signature Team 120 2020 750 ml $135 300 750 ml $40 150 2020 750 ml $45 WA 95 ST 91 2005 Vintage (WA 95)

OUR FAVOURITE

06 CONCA DEL RIU ANOIA CONCA DE BARBERÀ

In 1872, Josep Raventós Fatjó introduced The Torres family has been connected to Catalonia to the traditional method of making Catalonia since the 17th century, and its quali- sparkling wine and produced the very first Cava. tative contribution to the region is undeniable. In 1984, his son Josep María Raventós i Blanc As well as infusing a contagious dynamism into and his grandson Manuel founded the vineyard Spanish viticulture, it has also been the linchpin known as Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. All their wines of its renaissance. At the end of the ’60s, Miguel, are produced from the 60 hectares of vines the father of the family, shook off established grown on the property. Their focus on terroir thinking and began implementing modern wine- has never been greater than in 2001 when Pepe, making techniques. His experiments included Manuel’s son, returned to the vineyard after the production of barrel-aged red wines in pursuing studies in oenology at the Technical oak and the daring use of varietals such as University of Madrid. Using biodynamics, they Cabernet Sauvignon planted on parcels of land grow traditional varietals (Macabeu, Xarel-lo in Mas La Plana. Today, the Torres family has and Parellada) at the vineyard. Wanting to be over 2,300 hectares of vines on three continents, known for their quality, the Raventós family employs more than 1,300 people and distributes renounced the Cava appellation in 2012 and wines in more than 150 countries. Miguel Torres established the name Conca del Riu Anoia—a Jr. is the fifth generation of the family to lead Pepe Raventós far better description geographically and a the Torres empire. He is dedicated to ensuring better fit for the region’s winemaking traditions. the sustainability of his father’s legacy and vision, which Wine Enthusiast Magazine PEPE RAVENTÓS’S GOAL: recognized in 2012 by making him the recipient TO DEVELOP THE BEST of the Lifetime Achievement Award. SPARKLING WINES IN THE WORLD, NO LESS! 0 0

4 5 SPAIN MANUEL RAVENTÓS MILMANDA 2011 GRAN RESERVA PERSONAL 2007 “The Milmanda vintage gets its name from “Produced in limited quantity, this sparkling the castle overlooking the single vineyard wine is made from the region’s traditional planted with the Chardonnay vines used for varietals that grow exclusively on Clos del its production. Fermented and aged in French Serral parcel for Xarel-lo and Creueta del oak barrels, the wine offers notes of pine- Coll for Parellada. Made using the traditional apple, pastry and ripe apples complemented method, this wine is aged for seven years by toasted notes. Invigorating and fresh, yet on racks before being disgorged. It features full-textured with a lasting finish, this inter- charming aromas of acacia flowers, white pretation of Chardonnay is classic enough to fruits and a hint of aniseed and fennel. The please old-world wine lovers, but bold enough wine is fresh on the palate, with delicate, to please those seeking something new.” slightly creamy bubbles followed by a long — Signature Team mineral finish.” — Signature Team 300 2018 750 ml $45

240 750 ml $69 ST 90

ST 92

07 INTERVIEW SPAIN

ÁLVARO PALACIOS GREW UP ON THE FAMILY ESTATE SITUATED IN ALFARO, RIOJA BAJA. FOLLOWING STUDIES IN OENOLOGY AT UNIVERSITY OF BORDEAUX, HE DECIDED TO DEVELOP EXCEPTIONAL WINES IN HIS NATIVE COUNTRY. HE SET HIS SIGHTS ON THE PRIORAT REGION IN CATALONIA, THEN THE BIERZO REGION IN CASTILE-LEON.

08 ÁLVARO PALACIOS

WHAT IS YOUR WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY?

Purity in viticulture and perfectionism when it comes to winemaking and maturation.

DO YOU THINK IT’S NECESSARY TO USE THE LATEST TECHNOLOGIES TO CREATE THE GREATEST WINES IN THE WORLD?

The great wines of the world are a gift of nature, of the soils or vineyards touched by a divine hand. The rest is up to artful winemaking, while having the utmost respect for L’Ermita vineyard the fruit of these lands.

DO YOU THINK INTERNATIONAL VARIETIES HAVE THEIR PLACE HOW DOES BIODYNAMIC IN A REGION LIKE PRIORAT? CULTURE HELP YOU ON A DAILY BASIS? SPAIN

When planted in various regions of the Old World, international varieties will never be able Biodynamic or natural viticulture makes to reflect the true identity and the authentic, the plants stronger and more resistant to unique character of wines produced in the fungal attacks, and offers more interesting, varietal’s native region. It is difficult to find a hardier grapes that enjoy a long and healthy better equation than that of wines made using maturation period. traditional methods with indigenous varieties.

WHY IS L’ERMITA SO SPECIAL? HOW ABOUT LA FARAONA?

Both L’Ermita (p. 10) and La Faraona (p. 30) are unique parcels of land that could be described as true gems of nature. Vines from both parcels are of venerable age, and when we harvest the fully mature grapes, they yield moving, astoun ding wines.

09 PRIORAT

On the forefront of the Priorat appellation’s The Cims de Porrera cellar is to cooperative renaissance is Álvaro Palacios, who incarnates winemaking as haute couture is to fashion. the spirit of “New Spain.” Born to a family This initiative was born out of the rebirth of with nine children, he studied oenology at the the Priorat and has been in operation for nearly University of Bordeaux and then worked closely 20 years. The cooperative is headed by several with Jean-Pierre Moueix (Petrus) from whom young players who took part in the renewal he took his inspiration. In the 1980s, he became of the region by focusing on quality and the close friends with René Barbier from Palacios production of excellent wines made from local Remondo, a family vineyard in the Rioja. old vines. One of the appellation's founders, René Barbier’s enthusiasm and passion for the Josep Lluis Pérez, from Mas Martinet, bought Priorat region convinced Mr. Palacios to invest, back the building that houses the cooperative believing firmly that it would be the next El cellar in 1996. He retained the cooperative Dorado and a location to rival the best terroirs supply system whose goal is to emphasize local in the world. In 1990, he purchased his first production from old local vines of Grenache parcels of vines at Clos Dofí and renamed them and Carignan. Cousins Marc and Adrià Pérez Finca Dofí. In 1993, he discovered a 1.1-hectare now lead the cooperative’s winemaking and parcel that, in the hands of one of the most L’ERMITA: THE QUINTESSENCE their preference is for long maturation that gifted winemakers of his generation, produced OF THE PRIORAT DESIGNATION can sometimes even be in excess of two years. L’Ermita, one of the greatest wines ever to be AND PERHAPS EVEN made in Spain. OF SPAIN ITSELF. 06 07 08 FINCA DOFÍ 2011 L’ERMITA 2011 SOLANES 2007

SPAIN “Dominated by Grenache (95%) and com- “The barrel sample of 2011 L’Ermita consists of “ A prime example of the Priorat appellation, pleted by Syrah, this is a charming, highly the same blend as the 2010 (90% Grenache, this vintage from the Cims de Porrera cellar is exuberant wine. The nose is captivating and 8% Samso and 2% Grenache Blanc) but is made with a combination of Carignan (45%), expressive with aromas of ripe field straw- being raised in two 500-litre foudres with Grenache (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%), berries and cherries, all complemented by the thicker staves. It has an incredibly powerful Syrah (5%) and Merlot (5%). The wine offers fragrance of sweet spices. The mouth does not bouquet, with layers of sorbet-like red fruits magnificent aromas of ripe fruit and violet disappoint, continuing in the same vein, with washing over your senses in waves of pleasure. with a hint of cocoa. It is generous and remark- a crisp side and a mineral finish reminiscent The palate is full-bodied, with intense red fruits ably fresh on the palate with a silky structure of the finest Priorat wines. Already splendid, interlaced by cassis and spice, yet the finish and a mineral finish.” this wine displays a multi tude of flavours.” is very well-defined and precise. This will be — Signature Team an ‘Olympian’ L’Ermita although it has barely — Signature Team begun to show exactly what it can do.” — www.erobertparker.com 900 2020 750 ml $35 480 2023 750 ml $83 ST 91 IWC 90 ST 95 WA 94-96 24 2018-2035 750 ml $1,330

WA 94-96 IWC 95

OUR OUR FAVOURITE FAVOURITE

10 PRIORAT

Celler Mas Doix has only existed since 1998, Just like René Barbier from the celebrated Clos but the Doix family have been deeply rooted Mogador, Josep Lluis Pérez is a pioneer of Priorat. in grape production for over 150 years, selling Created in 1989, Mas Martinet is one of the best their fruit to the local cooperative cellars. Their regarded in the appellation. His wines are now Poboleda vineyard is located in the north eastern SARA PÉREZ DEVELOPS produced by his daughter, the talented and part of the Priorat appellation, and it benefits SOME OF THE MOST well-respected Sara Pérez, who has not been shy from an exceptionally cool climate for the to shake off old habits. The father-daughter duo region and enjoys a long growing season and SUCCESSFUL WINES OF also act as consultants for several producers in a relatively late harvest. The Doix family own THE PRIORAT DESIGNATION. the region, and they are behind the recent 15 hectares of vines which are mostly planted Cims de Porrera project which is also being with Carignan, Grenache—some of which are offered. According to The Wine Advocate’s up to 100 years old—and a middling amount Neal Martin, the vineyard’s wines “clearly of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. expressed the 2009 and 2010 Priorat terroir.” They have a relatively low harvest caused by the age of their vines, the poor nature of the soil, the high altitude of the vines and the fact that the vineyard is located along a hillside for optimum exposure.

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9 0 1 SPAIN SALANQUES 2010 DOIX COSTERS CLOS MARTINET 2009 DE VINYES VELLES 2010 “Deep, powerful cherry and dark berry scents “ The spellbinding 2009 Clos Martinet is a are complicated by suggestions of licorice “ A heady, smoky bouquet evokes cassis, blend of 65% Grenache, 18% Carignan, 11% and pipe tobacco. Concentrated blueberry blueberry, vanilla and potpourri, with a bright Syrah and the rest a mixture of Cabernet and and plum compote flavors pick up a roasted mineral accent building with air. Silky and Merlot, although these are being replanted coffee quality with air, along with a hint of seamless in texture, offering vibrant red berry with traditional varieties such as Grenache. bitter chocolate. This muscular but surpris- and vanilla flavors sharpened by zesty acidity Interestingly, it was aged in concrete tank for ingly energetic wine finishes smoky, spicy and a stony nuance. Clings with impressive 24 months rather than oak in order to retain and long, with an echo of candied blue fruits. tenacity on the finish, leaving floral pastille, the essence of terroir, and what an awesome 65% Grenache, 15% Carignan, 10% Syrah, oak, spice and raspberry notes behind. 50% result!... There is a sublime symmetry at play 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon; Carignan, 48% Grenache and 2% Merlot; here, wonderful minerality with subtle notes aged for 12 months in French oak.” aged for 16 months in new French oak.” of liquorice, chalk, citrus peel and a touch of oyster shell. It has brilliant delineation and — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar elegance towards the finish, which is long and sensual. Without question, this is one of the finest Priorat 2009s that I encountered...and 900 2024 750 ml $44 60 2016-2026 750 ml $125 all without a drop of oak.” P 92 IWC 92 P 94 IWC 93 — www.erobertparker.com

240 2016-2027 750 ml $76

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11 PRIORAT

Christopher Cannan, founder of a Bordeaux wine René Barbier played a pivotal role in the house, discovered Priorat in the 1980s. After revital ization of the Priorat, a mountainous meeting René Barbier and Álvaro Palacios, he region north of Tarragona that had fallen into was overcome by the need to pursue a career neglect. Originally from the Rhone Valley, he as a winemaker. In 1997, he purchased Clos studied in Burgundy and then at the University Figueras and a breath of fresh air was brought of Bordeaux in oenology before becoming the to the region. Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, business director at Palacios Remondo (Rioja) Mourvèdre and Cabernet Sauvignon are grown in the 1980s. It was during this period that he on the 18-hectare property located just north discovered Priorat. Fascinated by the llicorella of the Gratallops, at altitudes varying between soil (volcanic black shale) where old vines of 400 and 700 metres above sea level. All four Grenache and Carignan were being grown, it of the distinct cuvées produced at the vineyard was not long before other winemakers joined him are made from these varietals. The Crozes- in his interest. The owner of over 20 hectares, Hermitage appellation’s star winemaker and René Barbier prefers a traditional approach “Master of Syrah” Alain Graillot also helped when it comes to wine production. Though he contribute to the project as a consultant. brought the Clos concept with him, he prefers to avoid making micro-cuvées, focusing instead on making high-quality wine in as large a quantity as possible. With his son René by his side, he continues to helm his vineyard with brilliance. 12 13 14 FONT DE LA FIGUERA 2009 CLOS FIGUERES 2010 NELIN 2011

SPAIN “Saturated ruby. Expressive, spice-accented “ This wine has an incredibly charming nose, “According to René Barbier, Nelin ‘balances aromas of black raspberry and candied displaying notes of smoke, dark chocolate, masculinity and femininity in the bloom of cherry, complicated by deeper notes of smoked meat and strawberry compote. The youth.’ Nelin is made from four separate licorice and mocha and a hint of dried airy palate has outstanding freshness and the parcels totalling 10 hectares near the village of violet. Pliant, open-knit dark berry flavors subtle alcohol character makes it surprisingly Gratallops, where Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, are underscored by smoky minerality. Still accessible for its young age. Made primarily Pinot Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, quite primary but I suspect that this ripe, from parcels of old vines of Grenache and Pedro Ximénez, Pinot Noir and the very fleshy wine will be drinking very well shortly. Carignan in addition to Syrah, Mourvèdre and rare Escanyo Velles are planted. Given that A blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this vintage is micro- each vintage is unique, the final combination Cabernet Sauvignon.” vinified in new 500-litre barrels. This is a varies greatly.” wine with definite potential, yet it is already — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — Signature Team so appealing that it will be difficult to leave in the cellar.” 900 2020 750 ml $42 — Signature Team 180 2023 750 ml $65

IWC 90 2010 Vintage (WA 91) 300 2021 750 ml $79

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12 PRIORAT

RENÉ BARBIER FATHER AND SON ARE BEHIND A SERIES OF AMAZING PRIORATS.

Clos Mogador 1 1

5 6 SPAIN MANYETES 2010 CLOS MOGADOR 2009

“Opaque purple. Intense, mineral-accented “ This dark purplish-blue Priorat opens with aromas of cherry pit, cassis and violet, with subtle hints of cocoa and smoke. Upon aera- a sexy note of incense in the background. tion, it reveals aromas of blackcurrant syrup, Juicy and expansive, offering sweet dark licorice, tobacco and refined minerals. Highly berry flavors and notes of bitter chocolate concentrated, the palate evokes brandy- and candied flowers. Powerful but lively stewed fruit, black licorice and cocoa. This wine with excellent balance and clarity. young and spirited wine is rich, strong, long Fine-grained tannins give shape to an and expansive and given its density and tight impressively long, spicy, penetrating finish. tannic structure, it requires at least a few years Built to age gracefully. Mostly Carignan, in the bottle. Grenache, Carignan, Cabernet with a bit of Grenache.” Sauvignon and Syrah are judiciously combined and aged in 500-litre French oak barrels for — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar a year, followed by another year in fibreglass and wooden barrels. This wine is truly superb and very promising!” 180 2016-2028 750 ml $89 — Signature Team IWC 93

180 2018-2030 750 ml $93

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13 PRIORAT

Costers del Siurana has a unique philosophy “Trio Infernal” is the name of the original project Mas Igneus was founded in 1996 as a collab- when it comes to blending. All the vineyard’s initiated by three long-standing friends and oration between Josep Maria Albet, Josep Maria cuvées, including Clos de l’Obac, are made winemakers from the south of France in 2002. Pujol-Busquets and the Poboleda cooperative, by blending each of the varietals in identical Laurent Combier, from Domaine Combier in who left the venture in 2004. The first certified proportions year after year. The idea behind Crozes-Hermitage, Peter Fischer, from Château organic vineyard in the Priorat, it has three this unusual way of working is that it produces Revelette in Provence, and Jean-Michel Gerin, properties covering 11 hectares of vines including a unique wine that perfectly reflects the from his eponymously named vineyard in Côte- Costers de l’Ermita, whose cellars were recently vintage without having to use different blends. Rôtie, settled in Catalonia with a single goal— renovated for the 2004 vintage. Today, each The vineyard has several parcels of old vines and producing fresh, concentrated and elegant parcel of land can be vinified separately in order also several red varietals including Grenache, wines. They cultivate eight hectares of vines, to ensure that each parcel has reached its peak Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Ull de mainly growing Grenache and Carignan, typical of maturity before harvesting. The vineyard also Llebre (Tempranillo) and Carignan. The wines of the region, as well as a smattering of Syrah, works with a group of growers who share their they produce through the art of blending are native to the Rhone Valley. The vines are grown philosophy. This white is made entirely from exceptionally complex, powerful and sophis- at 300 to 500 meters, and the oldest Carignans old-vine Grenache Blanc grown on steep slopes ticated. They are all matured in French barrels grown at the vineyard are nearly a century old. 300 metres above sea level. The fermentation from Allier, Limousin and Nevers. The exceptional microclimate, with a marked and maturation are done entirely in barrels over thermal variation between day and night, allows a period of four months. them to produce wines of exceptional quality and an inviting freshness of character. 17 18 19 CLOS DE L’OBAC 2005 RIU 2010 MAS IGNEUS FA 104 2012

SPAIN “ Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) and Grenache “ For this vintage, Trio Infernal played the “The production of white wine is rather secret ive (35%) are the stars of this vintage, comple- accessibility card. The wine is made from equal in the Priorat region. The Mas Igneus FA 104 mented by Syrah, Carignan and Merlot. Aged parts Syrah, Grenache and Carignan and aged 2012 has a distinguished flavour profile that for 14 months in new French oak barrels, for 12 months in French oak barrels. It displays evokes toasted notes and exotic fruit aromas, this wine has superb aromatic complexity, hints of cinnamon and cherry with floral notes. fennel, cut hay and cloves. Its spicy, mineral wafting hints of ripe fruit, smoke and leather, This is an accessible wine whose balanced finish is not heavy in the slightest. Original combined with aromas of balsamic remin- tannins will allow it to age in your cellar for a and enigmatic!” iscent of cedar and fresh mint. With a straight, few years.” — Signature Team fresh and compact mouth, this meditation — Signature Team wine will be good for many years to come.” — Signature Team 480 2018 750 ml $35 900 2020 750 ml $30 ST 91 240 2025 750 ml $99 ST 90

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OUR FAVOURITE

14 MONTSANT NAVARRA

After pursuing studies in oenology, Regina and Espectacle was founded as a partnership The geographical location of the Otazu vineyard Josep Grau were on the hunt for the perfect between René and Isabelle Barbier from in Navarre is unique, as it is the northernmost place to produce their own wines. With their Clos Mogador, Fernando and Marta Zamora, pro ducer of red wines in Spain. A place of history hearts set on the use of Grenache Noir, a varietal oenologists and professors at the University and tradition dating back to the Middle Ages, that requires hard work and dedication, they of Tarragona, and Christopher and Charlotte this estate of 350 hectares, 115 of which are settled in Montsant, a region that circles the Cannan from Clos Figueras. While each of dedicated to the vine, is subject to Atlantic and Priorat appellation just to the west of Tarragona. these players contributes their own vision and Mediterranean influences, which ensure that In 2003, Celler Dosterras was born after the expertise, René Barbier, the person singularly the grapes grow to full maturation. The varietal acquisition of the 1-hectare Les Taules parcel responsible for the rebirth of Priorat, is in charge used to make this wine comes exclusively from in Capçanes. They built a small facility in the of the winemaking. Right from its first vintage the Otazu property which earned the presti- mid dle of their tiny 100-year-old vineyard and in 2004, the critics have raved. This is the gious appellation of “Vino de Pago,” the highest began producing the vineyard’s only wine. only wine produced on the estate located in the geographic classification in Spain. This classi- Gradually, they acquired other vineyards northern Montsant appellation in the commune fication protects producer-owned wines with planted with Grenache and Samsó (Carignan). of La Figuera. Produced from a 2-hectare vine- direct influence from climatic and geographic Now the owners of 22 hectares, they were yard located on the north-facing flank of the factors and prohibits the purchase of grapes. forced to move their facilities in 2007 to keep up mountain, the old Grenache Noir vines are The new cellar is breathtaking and is equipped with production. Their goal to create wines that 120 years old and many are still ungrafted. The with all the tools needed to take the property reflect the region’s mixed character have earned yield is unsurprisingly low given the age of the to new heights. them respect and a well-deserved reputation. vines and the small parcel of land, so great care The Graus’ mission to produce exceptional wines and attention is given to the vines at all times. has been a complete success. A great wine with unparalleled complexity. 2 2 2

0 1 2 SPAIN DOSTERRAS 2010 ESPECTACLE 2010 PALACIO DE OTAZU ALTAR 2005

“ Taules, Mal Camí, Els Quatrecents and El “ Deep, brilliant ruby. Mineral-accented aromas “ This wine from Navarre is made from 70% Teatre are the four parcels of Grenache Noir, of dark berries, violet and smoky Indian spices, Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Tempranillo. the oldest vines on the estate, used to make with a sexy floral overtone. Juicy and precise, The 18-month aging process in new French oak the Dosterras vintage. Each vineyard brings offering sweet black raspberry and cherry- barrels is particularly well incorporated and its own subtleties and contributes to the wine’s cola flavors and a bracing jolt of minerality. contributes to the wine’s complexity without complexity and character. Aged for 16 months Closes sweet and smoky, with excellent clar- overpowering it. The Palacio de Otazu Altar in 225- and 500-litre French oak barrels, ity and slow-building tannins. This is one for is an elegant, subtle wine with hints of violet, its nose offers subtle hints of dried flowers, the cellar.” cedar, smoke, tobacco, leather, sweet spices, cocoa, stewed fruit and licorice. In contrast black fruit and grilled peppers. Impeccably — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar with the nose, the mouth delivers flavours of balanced and rich, this wine is reminiscent very ripe, crisp fruit, polished tannins and good of left bank Bordeaux wines. Already open acidity. This is an excellent wine, especially and pleasant, it can be enjoyed over the next 60 2016-2026 750 ml $145 for the price.” 10 years.” — Signature Team IWC 93 — Signature Team

594 2020 750 ml $36 480 2023 750 ml $55

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OUR FAVOURITE

15 RIOJA

The Eguren family has been growing grapes The Eguren family has been growing grapes This estate began in the early 1990s when since 1870 and has produced five generations since 1870 and has produced five generations Benjamin Romeo acquired a 100-year-old of winemakers who are firmly convinced of winemakers who are firmly convinced that cellar located under the San Vicente de la that excellent wines begin with the vine. The excellent wines begin with the vine. The Egurens Sonsierra castle. Shortly after producing his Egurens carved out six vineyards and focus carved out six vineyards and focus on the parti- first wine, La Cueva del Contador, he acquired on the particularities of each one by making cularities of each one by making traditional strategic parcels of land in Rioja Alavesa. traditional wines with thoroughly modern wines with thoroughly modern equipment. The The land included some vines of a venerable equipment. They are also strong proponents Viñedos Sierra Cantabria estate was born from age that he considers key to the production of sustainable practices, concentrating on the Eguren family’s desire to produce unique of his wines. “It’s the terroir that produces quality viticulture and showing their reverence wines representative of outstanding terroirs. great wines,” says the talented winemaker, for nature because they believe that it is the The estate is therefore composed of numerous who worked at the reputed Bodegas y Viñedos key to producing excellent wine. The Eguren parcels with very varied soils, climates and Artadi for 15 years before making the leap family’s Viñedos de Páganos project began in terrain. With sustainability in mind, the estate’s to Contador. In 2001, due to lack of space, he 1998. Their facilities are located in the heart buildings were built from rocks excavated while was forced to expand his wine production into of the “El Puntido” 25-hectare vineyard for digging the cellars. his parents’ garage until new cellars were built. which one of the wines is named. The vineyard His dedication and perfectionism meant that is located on a south-facing plot of land where he wanted to design and develop his new cellars the Tempranillo vines date back to 1975. himself, which were first put into production with the 2008 vintage. The wines made at Bodega Contador are distinctly modern and are some of the most respected wines in Spain. 23 24 25 EL PUNTIDO 2009 FINCA EL BOSQUE 2010 LA CUEVA DEL CONTADOR 2010

SPAIN “ Deep, bright ruby. Sexy aromas of black and “ Glass-staining ruby. Black and blue fruits and “ The 2010 La Cueva del Contador was cropped blue fruits, flowers and spices, along with a incense on the flamboyantly perfumed nose. between October 8 and 11 from six parcels smoky overtone. Stains the palate with sweet Lush, palate-coating cassis and blueberry (mainly ‘La Canoca,’ which constitutes 46% blueberry and cherry-cola flavors braced by flavors show excellent clarity and become of the blend). It has a vibrant bouquet of a zesty mineral quality. This smooth, seamless spicier with air. Notes of licorice and mocha blueberries and blackberry leaf, tinged with and focused Rioja finishes with excellent come up on the finish, which clings with superb a saline/brine scent. The palate is medium- thrust and length. 100% Tempranillo, aged tenacity and smooth, sweet tannins.” bodied with silky smooth tannins, plush dark for 16 months in small French oak barrels.” cherry and cassis fruit over-layered by sensual — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar creamy oak that lends an alluring silkiness — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar to the finish, which glides across the mouth. In a word—sexy.” 200 2016-2026 750 ml $139 432 2023 750 ml $59 — www.erobertparker.com P 96 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 94 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 93 450 2015-2025 750 ml $86

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In the Rioja, where you might think there is nothing left to prove, Mario Rotllant and Carmen Daurella, the founders of Bodegas Roda, are convinced otherwise. In 1987, they found the perfect location in Haro to launch their project. The property has 28 parcels, though only 17 of these parcels are chosen annually following a severe and rigorous selection of the fruit. This meticu lous selection ensures that they produce a singular range of modern wines made from the three varietals that are preferred at the vineyard (Tempranillo, Graciano and Grenache). All the fruit produced is grown organically from vines aged between 30 and 80 years. Agustín Roda Santolaya, who is the linchpin of the estate’s team vineyard of ultra-perfectionists, has done much research BENJAMIN ROMEO’S WINES and development over the past 15 years. The result INCARNATE THE MODERNIST of this R&D is a bioclimatic cellar used to mature SCHOOL OF THOUGHT the wine—an essential element in the creation of their exceptional quality wines. For over a quarter OF RIOJA WINES. of a century, Bodegas Roda has been a part of the select pack of the Rioja’s best producers. 2 2 2

6 7 8 SPAIN CONTADOR 2010 RODA I RESERVA 2007 CIRSION 2010

“Inky purple. An exotically perfumed bouquet “ Deep ruby. Exotic, highly perfumed bouquet “The 2010 Cirsion is pure Tempranillo from evokes dark berry preserves, incense and of cherry-cola, oak, spices and potpourri, with a selected vines. The ripeness of the grapes lavender, with a bright mineral overtone. slow-building floral nuance. Juicy, penetrating gives special characteristics to their tannins, Sappy, penetrating black raspberry and dark fruit flavors are lifted by tangy acidity which need a shorter aging time in wood bitter cherry flavors show excellent depth and gain sweetness with air. This very suave and make for an exuberant and approachable and energy, picking up floral pastille and Rioja finishes with strong thrust and a lingering wine. As with the rest of Roda’s wines, it’s vanilla nuances with air. Finishes with superb note of Indian spices. I find this to be drinking fermented in French oak vats. Malolactic clarity, subtle tannins and outstanding, floral- very well right now.” fermentation is carried out in French barrels, driven persistence. 86% Tempranillo and 14% where the wine matures for eight months. — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar Grenache, from the estate’s oldest vines; aged It’s dark, opaque and almost black in color. for 18 months in new French oak.” The backward nose is unyielding and tight, and requires time and air before revealing — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 240 2017 750 ml $73 an array of ripe black fruit, dark spices, licorice P 94 IWC 92 and some lactic hints. The palate is extremely balanced, with clean acidity and ultra-fine, 120 2018-2035 750 ml $362 velvety tannins that make it round, intense, P 97 “Exceptional Wine” WA 96 IWC 96 tasty and powerful yet light. This is a great Cirsion. 7,000 bottles were made.” — www.erobertparker.com

54 2030 750 ml $267

P 95 “Exceptional Wine” WA 94

17 RIOJA

Aurora Caño founded this vineyard in 1932 Juan Carlos López de Lacalle is the man behind in Haro, the capital of Rioja Alta shortly after this vineyard located north of Logroño, in Rioja marrying Isaac Muga. Primarily growers until Alavesa. In the 1970s, this agricultural engineer the 1960s, they began making wine from their studied oenology in Madrid. In the 1980s, he own grapes when they moved their cellar near founded a modest cooperative called Cosecheros Barrio de la Estación. Their two sons, Manuel Alaveses, later to be renamed Artadi, with a few and Isacín, are also closely involved in the of his fellow growers. Mr. López de Lacalle production. With 250 hectares of their own believes that Rioja offers terroirs that are as vineyards and the purchase of grapes from complex and varied as those of Burgundy and other growers in the region (an additional Moselle. He believes that Tempranillo is “very 150 hectares), Bodegas Muga is considered a similar to Pinot Noir,” which is why he prefers to traditional winery by its peers. Working exclu- use French rather than American oak, finding sively with wood for their entire production it too aggressive. The exceptional nature of his (vinification, cellaring and storage) has become wines earned him the title of Best Bodega of the family’s trademark. Since the beginning of 2014 from the Peñín Guide. the 1990s, the Muga family has created wines ARTADI WAS NAMED that marry tradition and modernity, making this bodega a must-have for wine lovers. BEST BODEGA OF 2014 IN THE PEÑÍN GUIDE. 2 9 30 31 ARO 2009 VIÑAS DE GAIN 2010 PAGOS VIEJOS 2010

SPAIN “ The 2009 Aro is a blend of 30% Graciano “Vivid ruby. Assertive red fruit and floral scents “ Inky ruby. A complex, intensely perfumed and 70% Tempranillo. The Graciano is very are brightened by a minerally nuance. Spicy, bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, expressive on the nose, lending it efferves- penetrating and gently sweet, offering bitter smoky Indian spices, vanilla and pipe tobacco. cence and animation, delivering scents of cherry and raspberry flavors and a touch of Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering Indian ink, cassis and orange sorbet. The palate rose. The long finish features gentle tannic black raspberry, cherry-cola and spicecake is very well-balanced with supple, saturated grip and very good spicy lift, leaving a cherry flavors and a jolt of tangy acidity. This fleshy, and grippy tannins. There is patently very pit note behind. 100% Tempranillo.” vibrant wine finishes with strong energy, well-judged acidity and a wonderful sense supple tannins and superb persistence.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar of symmetry and focus towards the finish.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — www.erobertparker.com 900 2018 750 ml $35 150 2018-2028 750 ml $109 60 2019-2035 750 ml $173 P 92 IWC 91 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 94 WA 95 IWC 94

18 RIOJA

Miguel Angel de Gregorio had a passion for A pioneer in the production of Riojan wines, wine from an early age. In a way, he was des- Luciano Francisco Ramón de Murrieta, better tined to become a winemaker since his father known as the Marqués de Murrieta, was the worked the vines at Marqués de Murrieta when founder of this well-reputed vineyard in 1852. he was born. At the age of 25, he put his degree Following an inspirational stay in Bordeaux, he in agricultural engineering to good use by decided to put Bordeaux production practices taking the position of technical director at to use for the production of his own wines. In Bodegas Bretón in Rioja from 1989 to 1997, 1872 he acquired the Finca Ygay vineyards in founding Briones in 1995 during this period. the southern section of the Rioja Alta, not Located in the Rioja Alta, the vineyard grows far from Logroño. These were some of the first Finca Allende, and he now has 56 hectares of vines to be planted in the region. In 1983, the vines on the property. He is the new face of the 300-hectare property was acquired by Vicente Rioja region and is an integral part of the Dalmau Cebrían Sagarriga, the Count of recent movement that has abandoned the Creixell. Proof that tradition and modernity can traditional philosophy on aging. He takes a coexist, the estate’s two main cuvées, Castillo very Burgundian approach to his wine making, Ygay and Dalmau, are diametrically opposed preferring to reflect the individual character in terms of style. After his passing in 1996, the of each of his parcels of land. Planted in 1970, Count of Creixell left the reins of this historic Viura (Macabeu) is used in the production of estate in his son’s hands to continue its legacy. the Mártires cuvée, which is currently ranked among the best Spanish whites. 3 3 3

2 3 4 SPAIN VIÑA EL PISÓN 2010 MÁRTIRES 2011 DALMAU 2007

“The 2010 Viña El Pisón, one of the first single- “ Bright yellow, powerful nose of ripe fruit, “ Cut from a (well-tailored) modern cloth, the vineyard wines in Rioja, is sourced from the sweet spices, creamy oak. Rich palate, smoky, excellent 2007 Dalmau has a dark broody Tempranillo vines planted by Juan Carlos flavourful, fresh, good acidity. 100% Viura.” nose with black plum, cassis and cedar. It López de Lacalle’s grandfather in 1945. The demonstrates well-integrated oak and fine — Peñín Guide to Spanish Wine 2013 2.4-hectare vineyard is located in Laguardia, delineation. The palate is full-bodied with an very close to the winery, at 480 meters above unashamedly oak-laden entry that suffuses sea level.... The wine ages for 15 months in the blackberry, vanilla pod and blueberry 90 2024 750 ml $139 French oak barrels.... The medium-bodied notes that sweep over the mouth. There are palate shows great precision, tension and purity P 94 subtle touches of pain grillé and cooked meats of flavors, with clean acidity and a mineral core underlying the dense black fruit, but what I that make it vibrant. It’s not in-your-face, it admire is the focus and freshness maintained whispers, and you have to pay attention. It has from start to finish.” great balance and harmony. The tight tannins — www.erobertparker.com would benefit from a little bit more time in bottle, and I’m sure the wine will age for a very long time. This is a great, world-class wine.” 300 2018-2030 750 ml $79 — www.erobertparker.com P 97 “Exceptional Wine” WA 92

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19 INTERVIEW SPAIN

A NATIVE OF THE BASQUE COUNTRY, TELMO RODRÍGUEZ STUDIED BIOLOGY IN BILBAO AND OENOLOGY IN BORDEAUX. HE WORKED IN COLLABORATION WITH TALENTED WINE GROWERS BEFORE GETTING INVOLVED WITH HIS FAMILY ESTATE IN RIOJA. IN 1994, HE LAUNCHED HIS OWN BUSINESS, PUTTING EMPHASIS ON THE COUNTRY’S INDIGENOUS GRAPE VARIETIES, BRINGING HISTORICAL YET LONG-FORGOTTEN VINEYARDS BACK TO LIFE.

20 TELMO RODRÍGUEZ

YOU ARE ALREADY WORKING IN RIOJA, RIBERA DEL DUERO, TORO, VALDEORRAS, CIGALES, RUEDA, ALICANTE AND MALAGA. WHAT’S NEXT?

Don’t you think it’s enough? Our challenge now, more than expansion, is to complete all these amazing projects. But I insist that we don’t make wines all over Spain; we concen- trate on a few specific regions in the north- west of the country.

DOES SPANISH WHITE WINE HAVE A PROMISING FUTURE? WHAT REGION/APPELLATION IS THE NEXT BIG THING IN SPAIN?

I think Spain should also be recognized as a white wine country. It’s what I was saying when Rioja, for sure. Over the next 10 years it will be I started Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez most exciting to rediscover one of the great est in the early ’90s. In a world dominated by regions of the world, Rioja, with all its magnifi- Chardonnay and Sauvignon, most people don’t cent landscapes and majestic vineyards. know that Spain features amazing regions to SPAIN produce white wine using native grapes such as WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES Albariño (Alvarinho), Freixadura, Caiño, Godello, BETWEEN TEMPRANILLO, Verdejo, Garnacha Blanco (Grenache Blanc), TINTO FINO AND TINTA DE TORO? Moscatel (Muscat) and many more.

Rioja, Ribera del Duero and Toro are distinct yet favourable areas for Tempranillo, each in their own way. You can notice it by travelling there or just by meeting with local grape growers. These Tempranillo varieties are all different, they adapted in very diverse ways according to their terroir. We could say that in Rioja, Tempranillo is velvety, fresh and deluxe. In Ribera del Duero it is intense, round, beefy and exuberant. In Toro it is mineral, round and spicy.

WHAT IS YOUR TAKE ON PORTUGUESE WINE?

I love Portuguese wine, and I love to say that, combined with Spain, it is the most exciting new old-world wine region.

21 RUEDA VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN

A veritable Spanish legend, Telmo Rodríguez is a talented and influential oenologist responsible for the development of a series of increas- WHETHER WHITE OR RED, ingly brilliant wines from a multitude of regions both well known and others less so. Trained in TELMO RODRÍGUEZ’S WINES Bordeaux, he has collaborated with several ARE UNDENIABLY CHARMING. well-reputed vineyards and winemakers in France including Cos d’Estournel, Jean-Louis Chave, Auguste Clape, the Perrin family and Eloi Dürrbach before settling in the Rioja region for a decade to work at the Remelluri family estate. In 1994 he decided to make his own wines with the help of eminent oenologist Pablo Eguzkiza, first in Navarre and then in Rueda, Alicante, Toro, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, Valdeorras, Cigales and even in Malaga. Their mission? “Making wine with soul” using the best grapes possible. Since 1999, they have been working in southern Castile-Leon, in Cebreros, where they are now making wines from old-vine Grenache. A new and inspiring project. 35 36 37 EL TRANSISTOR 2011 PEGASO GRANITO 2009 PEGASO BARRANCOS DE PIZARRA 2010

SPAIN “ Made entirely from Verdejo, this wine was “ This vintage is made entirely from old goblet- vinified using natural yeast. The 9-month aging trained Grenache grown at an altitude of 800 “ This wine features an impeccable varietal process in oak, concrete and stainless steel to 1,000 metres and is aged for 18 months in expression. Made from 100% Grenache from barrels leaves room for the fruit to express 600-litre French barrels. It mystified us with very old vines, it is grown organically and is itself. Despite an understated nose displaying its oxidative aromatic profile displaying hints meticulously harvested by hand. A delicious hints of cut grass and hay, the mouth is of cherry liqueur, cinnamon, hazelnut, milk invigorating opening marked by a refreshing surprisingly voluminous, combining a milky chocolate and pralines. An already very open acidity. This vintage piques the appetite with texture while retaining a very timely freshness. wine, it is enigmatic with a unique character a myriad aromas, including strawberry, licorice, With a nice, lasting mineral touch, this is the and impressive freshness.” milk chocolate, cinnamon and floral notes. ultimate thirst-quenching wine.” In the mouth, the wine performs well with — Signature Team good quality, yet firm, tannins.” — Signature Team — Signature Team 180 2018 750 ml $45 300 750 ml $30 ST 92 P 93 180 2020 750 ml $45 ST 90 ST 92

22 VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA Y LEÓN TIERRA DEL VINO DE ZAMORA

Bodegas Mauro is a 55-hectare vineyard located When the Toro appellation’s cadastre was in Tudela de Duero that has rightfully acquired created in 1987, the Tierra del Vino de Zamora an excellent reputation since its founding in area, which runs southeast of the provinces of 1978. Their goal is to produce wines with an Zamora and Salamanca, was not officially exceptional cellaring character. The vines and included. It wasn’t until 2007 that the area parcels of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and Syrah obtained the official status of Denominación are 20 to 25 years old and are grown without de Origen. It includes some fabulous terroirs pesticides or herbicides because they want to including the Douro River where Tinto Fino ensure that their ecosystem is kept in good (Tempranillo) still reigns as lord and master. health. They prefer extended barrel maturation Founded in 2002 in Villanueva del Campeán, in 75% French barrels. Bodegas Mauro only Bodegas Viñas del Cénit only uses fruit from produces 270,000 bottles per year and just vines of an average age of 35 years, some of 30% of the bottles produced are exported which are centennial vines that have never to more than 50 countries. been grafted. Almudena Alberca, the talented oenologist who has made all their wines since they opened, also works at another property in Ribera del Duero (Dominio de Atauta). These wines are modern, daring and truly exceptional!

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8 9 0 SPAIN MAURO 2010 TERREUS 2009 CÉNIT 2009

“This batch of Bodegas Mauro is made “ Opaque ruby. Explosive aromas of dark berry “ A barrel sample of the 2009 Cénit was even mostly from Tempranillo grapes (90%), preserves, smoky minerals, incense and toasty more striking. Opulent, powerful yet elegant, complemented with Syrah. The wine is aged vanillin oak. Sweet and expansive, offering and impeccably balanced, this superb offering for 16 months in French and American oak intense blackberry and cherry-cola flavors and from a great vintage will raise the bar to un- barrels. It displays aromas of candied fruit and an exotic touch of fruitcake. Closes smooth, paralleled heights for this region.” pastry. On the palate, the wine has a certain sweet and very long, with slow-building tannins — www.erobertparker.com complexity and freshness combined with soft and a jolt of minerality.” tannins. This wine is decidedly charming!” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — Signature Team 600 2016-2025 750 ml $55

90 2016-2026 750 ml $156 WA 96-98 480 2023 750 ml $52 P 92 IWC 93 ST 91 P 90 IWC 91

23 RIBERA DEL DUERO

José Moro Espinosa’s goal is to further build Miguel Sánchez founded his estate in the Peter Sisseck was born in the early 1960s in on the foundations established by his father eastern part of Ribera del Duero, in the prov- Copenhagen, Denmark. He was an agronomist and grandfather before him. A third-generation ince of Soria at the turn of the millennium. and oenologist with a degree from the University winemaker, he began selling his wine in 1987. The cellars he had built extend over four floors of Bordeaux—the region where he cut his teeth He built his cellars in Pesquera de Duero, in the and were developed and designed so that all before making the leap to Ribera del Duero in province of Valladolid, using all the savings his the work could be done by gravity and avoid 1990 at the age of 27. He worked as the head family had put aside. The winery has 70 hectares unnecessary pumping and handling of the cellarman for Hacienda Monasterio, though of Tinto Fino planted on the property, some of wine. All his vineyards including Valdegatiles his true dream was to produce his own wine. which were planted and grafted with clones of are located in Atauta at an average altitude of In 1995, not far from Valladolid, he founded an original Finca Resalso vine from a property 1,000 metres. Valdegatiles is only 1.7 hectares in Pingus. His first vintage was a success and the that was originally planted in 1932—the year size, and it grows Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) with critics raved about it. His secret? Very old Tinto Emilio Moro was born. Tradition, innovation an average age of 60 years. Its soil is sandy and Fino vines (the local name for Tempranillo) from and social responsibility are the three pillars it is completely free of phylloxera. All the grapes three parcels on five hectares that have been of this family business’s success and way of are grown using biodynamics and are harvested biodynamically farmed since 2002. The fruit working. Powerful, structured and well featured, by hand. Judiciously matured in French oak is all meticulously selected by Peter, known these wines are the “must-haves” from the barrels over a period of 19 months, this wine everywhere as “Pingus.” In the cellars, there Ribera del Duero region. is full of structure and presence but retains are amphorae placed alongside the new barrels; its overall balance with grace. an experiment that aims to encourage better purity and bring the quality of these already sumptuous Spanish wines up to another level. 41 42 43 MALLEOLUS 2010 VALDEGATILES 2008 FLOR DE PINGUS 2011

SPAIN “This pure Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) wine charms “Glass-staining ruby. Pungent aromas of cherry “Inky ruby. Potent, mineral- and smoke- immediately with its aromatic intensity and compote, licorice, violet and black cardamom. accented dark berry and violet scents show depth. While it is certainly modern, it is far Chewy and densely packed, with slow-to- excellent clarity and lift. Silky and seamless from typical. Its nose evokes plums, figs, vanilla, open dark fruit flavors and notes of candied in texture, offering sweet blackberry and cocoa, wood, spices, smoke and subtle hints flowers and black pepper. The finish shows boysenberry flavors and notes of spice cake of cedar. Impressive and sumptuous, the mouth a potent cherry pit quality and clings with and floral pastilles. Closes with strong thrust, is large, powerful and concentrated. Aged superb persistence. This powerful, backward appealing sweetness and sneaky, slow- for 18 months in new French oak barrels, it is wine shows excellent potential but needs at mounting tannins. Very suave, even now, but marked by strong roasted notes that will inte- least five more years of cellaring; it clocks in this wine will be much better in another five grate over time. It has undeniable potential! at 14.7% alcohol but I’d never have guessed it.” to seven years.” This wine is a success that’s sure to please!” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — Signature Team

150 2016-2025 750 ml $124 300 2016-2026 750 ml $109 450 2016-2025 750 ml $50 P 96 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 92+ WA 93-95 IWC 93 ST 93

24 RIBERA DEL DUERO

PETER SISSECK, THE MAN BEHIND PINGUS, PRODUCES ONE OF SPAIN’S MOST VALUED WINES.

4 SPAIN PINGUS 2011

“The 2011 Pingus has a gorgeous, pure black cherry, cassis and blueberry scented bouquet interlaced by orange blossom and apricot. The oak is beautifully assimilated into the aromatic profile. The palate is full-bodied with a decadent entry. The tannins are ripe and rounded, imparting great tension and focus. There is both dimension and grace to this formidable Pingus that should blossom once it finishes its gestation. This is an outstanding Ribera del Duero wine.” — www.erobertparker.com

24 2020-2035 750 ml $1,050

WA 94-96 IWC 94

25 RIBERA DEL DUERO

Don Eloy Lecanda Chaves founded the legend- This bodega was founded in 1999 as a part- ary Bodegas Vega Sicilia in 1864, in Valbuena nership between Javier Zaccagnini, who holds del Duero, just east of Valladolid. Upon his an MBA and over 25 years of management return from Bordeaux, he planted a few French experience, Mariano García, ex-cellarmaster varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, of Bodegas Vega Sicilia for 30 years, and the Carmenère and Pinot Noir) alongside the financial backing of several other investors. Tempranillo. The quality and popularity of the Until the winery’s modern cellars were installed vineyard’s wines have seen ups and downs follow- in 2004, all the winemaking took place in a THE RIBERA DEL DUERO ing a series of different owners and successions. rented space in Roa. The wines are produced from It wasn’t until the end of the 1960s that the REGION’S MOST ANCIENT 32 hectares of property scattered throughout property came into its own thanks to the steward- ESTATE, AND ONE the Burgos and Valladolid provinces from ship of Mariano García, the estate’s winemaker vines that are a minimum of 40 years old. They OF SPAIN’S OLDEST, over the past 30 years. The estate’s reputation make a point of being very particular when was confirmed when the Álvarez family bought IS STILL AT THE TOP. choosing their fruit, preferring vines that are it back in 1982. Today, Tinto Fino makes up the between 45 and 100 years old from selected bulk of the 240-hectare property (80%) as growers throughout the region. Each vineyard well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. is vinified and matured separately and then Pablo Álvarez, general manager, and Xavier Ausás, skillfully blended by Mariano García. Their use oenologist and technical director since 1991, of Tinto Fino offers them the kind of exceptional are the heads of the most illustrious vineyard in quality that can only be produced by a dedicated Ribera del Duero and possibly even in all of Spain. and passionate team of winemakers. 45 46 47 VALBUENA 5° 2008 ÚNICO 2003 AALTO PS 2010

SPAIN “ Opaque ruby. Sexy, oak-spicy aromas of dark “ Vega Sicilia’s 2003 Único, mainly Tempranillo “ A star from Ribera del Duero, this fine wine berry preserves, pipe tobacco, licorice and with a balancing 8% of Cabernet Sauvignon, from the estate is named PS for ‘Pagos vanilla, with a smoky overtone. Plush, expan- was aged in wood for nearly seven years before seleccionados’ and is made using Tinto Fino sive blueberry and cherry-vanilla flavors show being bottled, starting with 15 months in from vineyards planted nearly 100 years ago. superb depth and pick up Indian spice and large oak vats, followed by 25 months in new Aged for 32 months in French oak barrels, bitter chocolate nuances with air. Finishes barriques, before being transferred to used ones the wine displays an impressive density sweet and seamless, with slow-building tannins for another 17 months and ending its élevage and spirit. With distinct hints of black fruit, and a whiplash of sweet blue fruit.” with a further 22 months in those large wood violets, cocoa, pastry and vanilla, the palate is vats again.... It is very aromatic, with plenty voluminous, fleshy, full-bodied and very long. — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar of dry herbs, thyme and rosemary, even pine This is a good future wine that has not quite nuts.... The mouth is a little more transparent reached its full potential yet.” toward the heat of the vintage, it is powerful 174 2025 750 ml $169 — Signature Team and full-bodied, but manages to keep freshness. P 94 IWC 93 The minty note is there, with some hints of chalk that make it very tasty. It feels briary and 240 2018-2035 750 ml $119 opulent. A success over the vintage conditions, it already shows some signs of com plexity, ST 92-94 WS 92 which points at an approachable Único.” — www.erobertparker.com

78 2030 750 ml $394

P 96 “Exceptional Wine” WA 94 IWC 95

26 RIBERA DEL DUERO TORO

Born into an impoverished family in Pesquera, Guillermo Díez Rodríguez has been fascinated In the early 20th century, Toro was a region with Alejandro Fernández became an agricultural by wine since he first saw his grandmother making little movement and even less recognition in engineer and made his fortune selling agricultural her own wine in old barrels in her underground Spain. When it received the Denominación de products and equipment. In the 1970s, while cellar. Though he has always been involved at the Origen appellation in 1987, there were only four many of his countrymen were pulling their vines family vineyard, he always dreamt of finding his producers in the region. Sensing its potential, the to plant sugar beets, Alejandro Fernández began parcel of land and doing the same for himself. Bodegas Vega Sicilia in the Ribera del Duero planting his vines because he was convinced The Rodríguez family have been growing grapes quickly established itself in the mid-1990s. The that the region had excellent viticultural for generations and at the tender age of 19, Álvarez family acquired several vineyards in potential. In 1972 he founded Tinto Pesquera. Guillermo became the youngest oenologist in 1997, with 70 hectares scattered across the Using Tempranillo as his workhorse, he was the Toro appellation—and the first member of appellation, and the first vintage was sold only determined to produce the best wines in the his family to hold an official title. In 2003, he four years later in 2001. Their goal was to create region. The subsequent decades have proved him created his first vintage and named his estate in a wine that was steeped in elegance—not an right. A great many of the region’s producers honour of his mother, Carmen Rodríguez Méndez. easy goal to accomplish given the region’s warm have been galvanized by his international success The family bodega’s grapes are grown on the climate and the fact that Tinta de Toro (the and are trying their luck at wine production. banks of the Douro in the southeastern section local name for Tempranillo) has a reputation Despite his 80 years of age, he is still as active of the Toro appellation in the Zamora province. for producing rustic and austere wines compared as ever at the four bodegas that make up the Working closely with his brother Luis, Guillermo to those of Ribera del Duero. Despite this, their Grupo Pesquera (El Vínculo, Dehesa La Granja, has made the estate one of the most exceptional wines have managed to avoid being overripe Condado de Haza and Tinto Pesquera), and his in the region in just a few short years. regardless of the vintage. These are accomplished wines continue to be among the best loved of wines made by skilled winemakers. the Iberian Peninsula. 4 4 5

8 9 0 SPAIN JANUS GRAN RESERVA 2003 CARO DORUM PINTIA 2009 SELECCIÓN ESPECIAL 2008 “Janus is the Roman god of transitions, choices, “ The aromatics on the 2009 Pintia are very beginnings and ends. The choice of name “ Inky purple. Suave, exotic scents of black- intense with lifted wild strawberry, raspberry, for this vintage was especially fitting given berry, blueberry, vanilla and Indian spices, mulberry fruit interlaced by dried herbs and that it was made for the first time in 1982 with cola and violet accents. Broad and supple just a mention of cigar box. The palate is by combining a modern vintage made from but juicy, with a velvety texture and deep, medium-bodied with fine tannins that are in destemmed grapes with a traditional vintage sweet dark berry preserve flavors. Finishes synch with the tobacco-tinged red fruit. This made from foot-pressed grapes. This unique with a sweet, very persistent note of boysen- has very good structure and symmetry, while wine has only been made six times in the last berry, an energizing touch of minerality and the finish displays fine tension and a long, 30 years, during exceptional vintages only, harmonious tannins.” spicy aftertaste.” with the last one being in 2003. Robert Parker — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar — www.erobertparker.com described the Janus 1982 as the Petrus of Spain. Upon tasting, the wine reveals the damp earth and truffle notes that are evoc- 720 2024 750 ml $37 492 2016-2026 750 ml $60 ative of this great Pomerol. This intense wine with aromas of stewed black fruit, chocolate P 92 IWC 92 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” WA 94 and sweet spices never fails to impress.” — Signature Team

300 2020 750 ml $148

ST 92 P 93 IWC 94

27 TORO

This estate is named in honour of the inhabit- The Eguren family has been growing grapes ants of Numancia, Spain, who resisted the since 1870 and have produced five genera- Roman invasion for 20 years before the city tions of winemakers who are firmly convinced was destroyed in 134 BC. Originally from that excellent wines begin with the vine. The Rioja, the Eguren family founded Valdefinjas, Egurens carved out six vineyards and focus in the province of Zamora, in 1998. After the on the particularities of each one by making construction of the new cellars was completed BELONGING TO THE traditional wines with thoroughly modern in 2007, they sold the 49-hectare property to LVMH GROUP, BODEGA equipment. They are also strong proponents of the LVMH luxury group (Louis Vuitton Moët sustainable practices, concentrating on quality Hennessy) the following year. Modern and NUMANTHIA DELIVERS viticulture and showing their reverence for ambitious, these wines have received nothing EXTRAORDINARY WINES nature because they believe that it is the key but high praise from the international press. FROM TORO. to producing excellent wine. For 15 years, the The fierce and tannic Tinta de Toro has become Eguren family has been a pioneer in the Toro a passion project for talented and dedicated appellation. Following the sale of Numanthia Portuguese winemaker Manuel Louzada, who has Termes, brothers Marco and Miguel decided to taken over since the purchase. The Numanthia continue on by establishing Teso la Monja in and Termanthia cuvées are made using only local, 2007. They changed their approach to wine- ungrafted Tempranillo vines that are 50 to 120 making, focusing instead on cooler, north-facing years old respectively. Simply astonishing! parcels of land that have a much longer growing season and produce far more elegant wines. 51 52 53 NUMANTHIA 2008 TERMANTHIA 2009 VICTORINO 2010

SPAIN “The 2008 Numanthia spent 18 months in “ The 2009 Termanthia has a fragrant bouquet “Benefiting from an 18-month aging process new French oak. It sports an inviting nose of dark berries, mulberry, juniper and laven- in French oak barrels and made from 100% of pain grillé, graphite, Asian spices, licorice, der, with vanilla-tinged notes emanating from Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo), this vintage cer- lavender and blackberry. In the glass it reveals the oak. The palate is full-bodied with firm but tainly offers an intense, ripe, fruity aromatic its voluptuous proportions, savory flavors and quite fine tannins, plus a fine sense of sym- profile of cherry liqueur and blueberries, com- outstanding volume.” metry. It is very sweet with plenty of candied plemented by scents of mocha and garam orange peel and even a hint of molasses towards masala. The mouth is generous and enveloping — www.erobertparker.com the succulent, fleshy, slightly spicy finish. This with a lingering, pleasant spicy finish.” is sleek and sensual and deserves five years, — Signature Team perhaps more, in the cellar.” 480 2016-2026 750 ml $63 — www.erobertparker.com WA 93 360 2025 750 ml $65

66 2017-2030 750 ml $179 ST 92 P 96 “Exceptional Wine” WA 93

P 95 “Exceptional Wine” WA 95

28 TORO BIERZO

Tired of boozy, over-oaked, heavy and powerful Already heavily invested in the dairy industry, wines, a group of investors and avid lovers of the Frías family revived an old family trad- elegant, original and palatable wines focused ition by producing their own wine. Sensing the their sights on the Bierzo region. The local potential of this dynamic northwestern region varietals of Mencia for reds and Godello for of Spain called Bierzo, it transformed one of whites were the cornerstones of the wines they its old dairy buildings into cellars in 1999, and aspired to make and drink. They were convinced christened it Bodegas Estefanía. They acquired THE ALABASTER VINTAGE that by combining grapes of different origins, a 40-odd-hectare winery situated on steep FIGURES IN THE microclimates, soils and altitudes throughout sloping hills planted with Mencia vines, the the region they could make some of the most region’s flagship varietal, that are between PEÑÍN GUIDE’S SHORTLIST interesting wine possible. Tradition and innov- 60 and 100 years old. Not skimping on any OF EXCEPTIONAL WINES. ation were served in equal measures and the detail or investment, they built a completely result is modern and authentic wines. Founded modern and cutting-edge facility. Their grapes at the beginning of the millennium in San are hand-harvested and they are renowned Román de Bembibre in the Upper Bierzo, this for producing the very finest wines possible. vineyard quickly shot to popularity and its The family also collaborates with the region’s reputation is well deserved. celebrated oenologist Raúl Peréz, who works as a consultant with some of Spain’s best wine producers.

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4 5 6 SPAIN ALABASTER 2010 TARES PAGO 3 2008 TILENUS PIEROS 2003

“The bouquet is tightly wound at the moment, “ Made from 100-year-old Mencia vines from “ Produced since 2001, the Pieros cuvée is with lifted black cherries, blueberry and a a single parcel of land, this wine benefits from made using Mencia grapes from 100-year-old scent of cold stone, though there is some a 15-month aging process in new French vines, grown at an altitude of 750 metres in oak to be absorbed. The palate is medium- barrels. The wine displays a decidedly modern Cacabelos. Fermentation is done in stainless bodied with fine, supple tannins, crisp acidity personality, where wood is expressed through steel tanks, followed by aging in French oak and a fine sense of symmetry towards the scents of roast and pastry, with a touch of barrels for 18 to 22 months. A deep garnet persistent finish, with white pepper enlivening smoke. Its ripe fruitiness displays aromas of red, the nose of this 2003 vintage opens with the aftertaste. This is another great wine from cinnamon and black licorice, all supported by notes of violet, sandalwood, sweet spices and Teso La Monja.” a very dense tannic structure. Still reserved, choco late. With good acidity, the palate is it offers undeniable potential for cellaring and incredibly long and offers rather enchanting — www.erobertparker.com holds many a delightful surprise for those who hints of ripe cherries and smoked meat. At an are willing to wait.” annual production of about 3,000 bottles, this superb Bierzo will surely captivate your guests.” 100 2016-2028 750 ml $210 — Signature Team — Signature Team P 96 “Exceptional Wine” WA 95 240 2015-2023 750 ml $73 360 2020 750 ml $59 ST 90-92 P 93 WA 91 ST 93 P 90 WA 92

OUR FAVOURITE

29 BIERZO

After dedicating himself to the Priorat region ÁLVARO AND RICARDO in the late 1980s, Álvaro Palacios made the PALACIOS ARE AT THE leap to Bierzo in Castile-Leon a short decade later. His nephew, Ricardo Pérez Palacios, who HEAD OF THIS BIERZO was charmed by the region, convinced him of POWERHOUSE. its potential. The two found a plot of land with high-grown old-vine Mencia in Corullón and decided this was the perfect source for excellent wines. Today, they have some 30 hectares of vineyard that are entirely grown using biodynamics and worked by mules. They have a very Burgundian approach to winemaking, focusing on the nuances of terroir. Since 2001, they have produced single-parcel cuvées: Moncerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona. The duo decided to name their vineyard in honour of their father/ grandfather, José Palacios, who had passed away while their project was still taking shape. Simply the best that Bierzo has to offer. 57 58 59 MONCERBAL 2011 LAS LAMAS 2011 LA FARAONA 2011

SPAIN “ The 2011 Moncerbal is sheer reflection of “ Deep ruby. Powerfully scented aromas of “ Deep, bright purple. Drop-dead aromas of the soil here, which is pure rock, pure slate: fresh red fruits, cola, incense and Asian spices, dark berry preserves, Asian spice, potpourri it imparts a very specific minerality to the with a bright mineral overtone. Stains the and incense, with an intense mineral overtone. wine. Extremely perfumed, it makes me think palate with sappy black raspberry, cherry and Stains the palate with sappy, chewy black rasp- of quince, candied oranges, jasmine, almost floral pastille flavors that are lifted and braced berry and floral pastille flavors enlivened by the grape-like sensation of Muscat, plenty of by a zesty mineral quality. Closes sweet, smoky notes of allspice, star anise and nutmeg. Silky, wild flowers and blueberry.... The palate and very long, with silky tannins that fade into sweet and penetrating on the finish, which displays round and silky tannins, a touch spicy the wine’s sappy fruit.” clings with outstanding tenacity and clarity. (white pepper), with superb length. This is There’s an elegance and focus here that’s the one with the stronger personality.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar reminiscent of the best Burgundies, but with more power and texture. If I were a third-world — www.erobertparker.com despot this is what I’d be drinking every day.” 120 2016-2026 750 ml $112 — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 60 2016-2025 750 ml $108 WA 94 IWC 93

WA 97 IWC 93 24 2016-2025 750 ml $995

WA 95 IWC 95

30 RÍAS BAIXAS

Located in the town of As Neves, Bodega This estate was founded in 1997 in the O Rosal José Antonio López Domínguez founded the Viña Nora overlooks the Rio Miño, just on Valley in the Rías Baixas appellation near the vineyard in 1995 under the name of Lusco the Spanish side of the border with Portugal. ocean and the Rio Miño, the river that acts as do Miño. Since 2007, Adega has been the This location is historically known for its culti- the border between Spain and Portugal. Their property of Dominio de Tares (Bierzo), the vation of Alvarinho, and all the wines made philosophy is firmly rooted in the production main shareholder. Located in Condado do Tea, on the property use this varietal exclusively. of the most traditional wines possible using a sub-region of Rías Baixas that runs along Their vines are planted on terraces that cascade cutting-edge technology. This 34-hectare the Portuguese border, Pazos de Lusco is one down the hills toward the river where the grapes vineyard also collaborates with 200 growers of the elite Galician producers. They produce receive exceptional sunlight and cool, stable whose products are selected according to the top-level white wines and are insistent that temperatures. Estate oenologist Josephine quality of production, their location and their the pursuit of quality is crucial throughout Perry, originally from Australia, previously soil type. Cuvée Dávila L-100 is entirely made the entire production process. All their grapes worked in France and California before settling from the Loureiro varietal grown on pre-selected are organically grown and are systematically in northwestern Spain. She is of the opinion that late-harvested parcels in order to obtain the vinified using local strains of yeast and then Alvarinho is closest in varietal to Riesling, but “overripe” character they prefer. The grapes are matured on fine lees to help them develop it also has some similarities with Chardonnay then cold macerated for six to eight days before the complexity for which they are renowned. depending on how the vines are cultivated. pressing. The wine is then matured on lees in Since 2009, Rafael Palacios, the Valdeorras 2,000-litre stainless steel vats. region’s star producer and winemaker, has been responsible for the creation of their wines. Simply brilliant!

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0 1 2 SPAIN NORA DA NEVE 2009 DÁVILA L-100 2010 PAZO PIÑEIRO 2010

“ The most ambitious wine from Bodega Viña “ The 2010 Dávila L-100 is pure Loureiro aged “ This wine, made entirely from Alvarinho, is Nora, the Nora da Neve offers a daring for six months on its lees. It has a subtle, definitely not to be overlooked. Once in the interpretation of the local Alvarinho, barrel- alluring bouquet with freshly sliced pineapple, glass, it changes constantly. At first it displays fermented and then aged for seven months in passion fruit and orange zest aromas that hints of ripe pineapple that linger on aromas 50% new oak. The result is a golden-coloured are well-defined ... with lovely pure apricot of grapefruit zest. Upon the second sniff, one wine with an exuberant nose evoking hints of and white peach fruit. It has great volume could find hints of pear, flowers and fennel. mango, peach, honey and apricot. The wine and freshness, with a convincing pure finish On the palate it is simply divine, displaying is remarkably full-bodied on the palate and that compels you to take another sip. What perfect balance and exquisite freshness. finishes with hints of barley sugar and toasty a superb wine.” Finally, the wine’s astonishing lasting finish notes. Slightly similar to Viognier grown in will surely win you over.” — www.erobertparker.com the northern Rhone Valley, this white wine is — Signature Team assertive enough to be served with a platter of soft cheeses.” 600 2020 750 ml $47 — Signature Team 450 2020 750 ml $43 P 92 WA 93 ST 96 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 92 900 2016 750 ml $33

ST 91 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” IWC 92

OUR FAVOURITE

31 VALDEORRAS MANCHUELA

In the 1980s, Jorge Ordóñez became one of the A journalist by training and an influential most important people in Spanish viticulture Spanish critic, Victor de la Serna is a writer who through his exportation of Spanish wines to specializes in cooking and wine. His passion for North America—though very few fine Spanish wine led him to found his own vineyard in the wines were exported here. He is currently invested heart of Castile-La Mancha, in the province in several winemaking projects around the Iberian of Cuenca, southeast of Madrid. In 1998, Peninsula. Avanthia, located in the mountains with the help of Rafael Orozco, his colleague near the O Barco de Valdeorras community in and winemaker, he founded Finca Sandoval in Galicia, was founded in collaboration with Manchuela, a recently promoted appellation, Bodegas Godeval. This cuvée is made from the in 2000. The vinyard covers 10 hectares and Mencia varietal from vines originally planted is located at an altitude of 770 metres. The soil in 1920 and in 1935. According to Robert is largely limestone and clay and is marked by Parker: “My readers will discover two of the strong temperature differences between day most interesting wines on the planet come from and night. The pair focuses mainly on Syrah indigenous varietals grown in cool conditions”— though they also have some Touriga Nacional and the Godello white and the Mencia cuvée, which some more traditional varieties such as Bobal, is offered here. Mourvèdre and Grenache, which are grown on their older vineyards. This is an inspirational and dynamic vineyard with a bright future. Victor de la Serna

A JOURNALIST BY TRAINING AND AN INFLUENTIAL SPANISH 6 6 CRITIC, VICTOR DE LA SERNA 3 4 IS A WRITER WHO SPECIALIZES AVANCIA 2009 FINCA SANDOVAL 2008 IN COOKING AND WINE.

SPAIN “ Vivid ruby. Deep, saturated ruby. Powerful “ Bright purple. Spicy, highly fragrant nose aromas of cassis, candied cherry, violet and features perfumed blackberry, violet and fruitcake, with a hint of dark chocolate. orange peel, with hints of smoke and black Then dense, sappy and thick, offering deep, olive. Really showing the Syrah now. Dense, dark fruit character and notes of licorice and sappy and chewy but surprisingly lithe; the violet pastille. Creamy and rich, with impres- intense red and dark berry and floral pastille sive flavor intensity. Finishes very long and flavors are at once taut and rich, thanks to smooth, with supple tannins and notes of zesty minerality. Finishes very suave and bitter chocolate and dark berries. A distinctly long, with fine-grained tannins and lingering masculine rendition of this variety and built spiciness. 76% Syrah, 13% Mourvèdre and to handle the richest foods.” 11% Bobal, planted on chalky soil; aged in 85% French and 15% American oak that — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar ranged from new to three years old.” — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar 360 2020 750 ml $52

WA 92 IWC 92 180 2020 750 ml $46

P 94 IWC 92

32 DOMINIO DE VALDEPUSA JUMILLA

Carlos Falcó y Fernández de Córdova, the Located in the Jumilla region north of the Created in 2002 as a collaboration between Marquis of Griñón, was a pioneer in the intro- Murcia province, Bodegas Luzón is without renowned New Zealand oenologist Chris duction of international varietals to Spain in exception one of the appellation’s brightest stars Ringland, Jorge Ordoñez and Miguel Gil, among 1974. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and is a leader in the production as well as the others, Bodegas El Nido makes its wines from Chardonnay, Petit Verdot and Syrah. In 2002, exportation of quality wines. The vineyard was 44 hectares of old vines. Their production Dominio de Valdepusa, the family’s property founded in 1916 and is covered by 500 hectares focuses on the use of two varietals: Mourvèdre since 1292, became the first vineyard to obtain of production vines. It now belongs to Groupe (80 years) and Cabernet Sauvignon (33 years). Vino de Pago status, which recognizes excep- Fuertes, which specializes in the agri-food They only produce two wines including the tional vineyards that produce wines made from sector. Since its acquisition in 2005, much self-titled El Nido which is produced in the fruit grown only on their own parcels. Its first investment has gone into the modernization arid climate of the Jumilla appellation. This wines were produced in 1982 under the strict of their equipment. An impressive group of wine is the vine yard’s flagship cuvée and only supervision of Émile Peynaud, the celebrated technicians work in perfect harmony with the 5,000 bottles are produced per year. It is a Bordeaux professor of oenology, and Michel estate’s veteran oenologists in order to preserve sure bet for lovers of bold wines with plenty of Rolland who now acts as a consultant. The estate their well-deserved heritage and to keep looking body and concen tration that still remain part produces several cuvées made from fruit grown forward to the future with quality in mind. of a beautifully balanced whole. on their 52-hectare vineyard.

6 6 6

5 6 7 SPAIN EMÉRITUS 2008 ALMA DE LUZÓN 2005 EL NIDO 2008

“ From vineyards owned by the Marqués de “ Opaque ruby. Black raspberry, potpourri, spicy “The 2008 El Nido is a blend of 70% Cabernet Griñón family, this vintage is made using a underbrush and coconutty oak on the nose. Sauvignon and 30% Mourvèdre also aged combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Shows alluringly silky texture and intensity, for 24 months in new French and American Verdot and Syrah and is aged for 24 months in with a light touch to its sweet strawberry and oak. It gives up a bit more aromatic complexity French oak barrels. It displays aromas of fine dark berry flavors and a gentle oak note in the with ramped up concentration and volume. spices, fruits and wood notes with hints of coco- background. A pretty, well-balanced wine that In the glass notes of blueberry, blackberry, nut. This wine is rich on the palate with young blends power with finesse and finishes with exotic spices, and pepper lead to a plush, silky, tannins that should be allowed to age in the excellent clarity and vibrancy. 70% Mourvèdre, 60-second finish.” cellar. This is a wine worthy of its signature.” 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah.” — www.erobertparker.com — Signature Team — Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar

120 2025 750 ml $169 150 2016-2025 750 ml $69 300 2020 750 ml $50 P 95 “Exceptional Wine” WA 96 ST 90 WA 92 P 93 IWC 92

33 PORTUGAL

34 Bordered by Spain to the north and east and by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, Portugal is a country with a rich history of maritime activity and famous explorers. The vast majority of Portugal’s population of 10 million inhabitants are centred in the country’s two major cities—Lisbon and Porto. The country is a large producer of wine, ranking in fifth place for wine production in Europe and first PORTUGAL in the world for cork production.

Portugal has been especially well known for the production of port in the past. However, over the past few years, several producers have modernized their winemaking methods and have begun producing still wines with great success. These Portuguese winemakers have managed to keep the authenticity of their wines by mainly focusing on the use of indigenous varietals.

Our selection includes 21 wines from several well-known producers including Luís Pato, Anselmo Mendes, Domingos Alves de Sousa, Niepoort and many more. Our favourites (both white and red) are a great way to discover the different terroirs Portugal has to offer with its Mediterranean climate, hot and dry summers and mild winters.

35 VINHO REGIONAL ALENTEJANO

This estate, founded by the Soares family in After pursuing a career as an agricultural en gin- 1998, is one of the newest in Alentejo. When it eer in Malaysia, Dane Hans Kristian Jorgensen was purchased, the property was uncultivated founded the Cortes de Cima estate in 1988 in and completely abandoned. To carry out its new Vidigueira, north of Alentejo, where he planted project, the family called on consultant Luis some 50 hectares of vines and as many of olive Duarte, who spent 20 years at Esporão. Today, trees. Historically, the region has been dedicated they have 27 hectares of vines surrounded by to white varietals, but Jorgensen broke with cork forests. The sloping shale terrain allows the tradition by choosing instead to grow a variety parcels to drain efficiently and promotes optimal of red grapes. His neighbours were initially maturity. The estate produces structured wines skep tical but quickly noticed that the estate made for aging that have been praised by the was producing fine wines fit for the international Luís Pato specialized press since the estate produced the market when the specialized press praised his first first vintage in 2003. Its owners also own the vintages. Today, the estate covers 130 hectares famous chain of Portuguese wine merchants of vines and also produces high-quality olive – HIS TALENTS AS A WINEMAKER– Garrafeira Soares. oil. Cortes de Cima has also taken a number –AND HIS MASTERY OF BAGA—– of sustainable development initiatives. The vast –THE ACIDIC AND TANNIC LOCAL– majority of the electricity used by the estate is –VARIETAL—EARNED HIM– generated by photovoltaic solar energy. –THE NAME “MR. BAGA.”– 68 69 70 MALHADINHA BRANCO 2012 MALHADINHA TINTO 2010 TOURIGA NACIONAL 2008

“Arinto, Viognier and Chardonnay make up “ This wine is an explosive combination of “ The 2008 Touriga Nacional is quite attract- PORTUGAL this original vintage with toasted and mineral 55% Alicante Bouschet, 24% Cabernet ive, focused and intense, with a touch of notes. Rather expressive, the nose is also Sauvignon, 15% Tinta Miúda and 3% each of vanilla, but good fruit and aromatics and marked by aromas of apricot, honey and Touriga Nacional and Syrah—all harvested lovely structure. Intense on the finish and acacia. The seven-month aging process in by hand in small baskets and then vinified with an obvious backbone, it shows an elegant French oak barrels gives the wine volume and in traditional lagares (fermenters). It is a mid-palate followed by some punch and power.” fullness. Very fresh and mineral, the mouth decadent wine with round tannins and aromas — www.erobertparker.com is surprisingly long and finishes on notes of of dates, dried currants and spices. This is a beeswax and exotic fruits. Nicely done!” decidedly southern wine that can be enjoyed now for its full-bodied texture and notes of — Signature Team 600 2019 750 ml $45 dried fruit. It pairs well with North African- inspired lamb dishes.” WA 89 300 2018 750 ml $35 — Signature Team

ST 92 300 2018 750 ml $53

ST 90

OUR FAVOURITE

36 ALENTEJO VINHO REGIONAL BEIRAS VINHO VERDE

Following agronomics studies in Lisbon, João In the early 1980s, Luís Pato, a trained chemical Anselmo Mendes has always been very attached Portugal Ramos perfected his education at engineer, took over the family estate in Bairrada, to his native region of Minho, named for the the National Viticulture Studies Centre in Dois a little-known Portuguese region located half- river separating Portugal and Spain. The son Portos, then launched his career as an oenologist way between the cities of Porto and Lisbon. The and grandson of viticulturists, he left the region in the Alentejo region in 1980. His multiple innovations and experimentations he instituted for Lisbon to pursue studies in agronomy. consultations, for modest properties or well- (destemming, the introduction of new French After graduating, he worked at the well-known established cooperatives, played an extremely barrels) revolutionized the winemaking process Portuguese vineyard Borges. He soon emerged important role in the rise and recognition of in Beiras. His talents as a winemaker and his as a talented winemaker and, little by little, this region. It was thus no surprise when, in mastery of Baga—the acidic and tannic local prestigious producers began calling on him. 1990, he planted his first vines in Estremoz, varietal—earned him the name “Mr. Baga.” While continuing his work as a consultant, he in the sub-region of Borba, in the north of In addition to putting the Bairrada region on founded his own estate in the late ’90s. His the Alentejo region. He began making wines in the map, this ardent defender of indigenous property, located near Melgaço in Northern rented warehouses, and it wasn’t until 1997 that varietals is the vice-president of ViniPortugal, Portugal, neighbours his native region. From he equipped himself with modern installations an interprofessional governmental association his tiny property, Mendes produces a limited and a new vat. that promotes Portuguese wines. With over selection of wines made primarily from the 30 years of experience, this passionate sup- Alvarinho varietal. His meticulous work and porter of local wines continues to inspire and his exceptional wines have earned Mendes succeed in the production of original, authentic the nickname Mr. Alvarinho. and modern wines.

7 7 7 1 2 3 PORTUGAL MARQUÊS DE BORBA VINHA BARROSA 2009 PARCELA ÚNICA 2011 RESERVA 2011 “ The 2009 Vinha Barrosa, a monopoly for “Anselmo Mendes brings us one of the rarest “ Ambitious and modern, this vintage com- Pato, is beautifully constructed. Fleshy, well Vinho Verde to have ever been made. Since bines the local Trincadeira and Aragonêz balanced, quite ripe and civilized, it is a lovely 2009, 3,600 bottles have been produced (Tempranillo) varietals with two French and sexy performance for this grape, with annually. This vintage is fermented and aged varietals: Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet power lurking. When this sheds its baby fat, in new 400-litre oak barrels for nine months. Sauvignon. It displays aromas and a very I wouldn’t be surprised to see it become more As its name suggests, this wine comes from straight structure typical of a Cabernet, all assertive, but it should always remain on the the unique vineyard whose only varietal, complemented by scents of field berries more seductive side, relatively speaking.” Alvarinho, was skin-contact macerated for a and cherry pits. Enjoyable from start to finish, few hours to extract more aromas and obtain — www.erobertparker.com progressing from an invigorating start to a greater definition and volume. The result is delicately dry finish, it leaves us with welcome astounding! Very expressive and mineral, it mineral notes. It has already achieved balance, exudes aromas of exotic fruit and honey. The 294 2025 750 ml $69 but there is still much more pleasure to come.” woodiness, although present, is subtle and gives an added element to the wine’s texture. — Signature Team WA 92 Mineral and intense, it finishes on notes of apple, kiwi and spices. It will mystify even the most expert wine lovers.” 300 2015-2025 750 ml $54 — Signature Team ST 91 WA 92

450 2020 750 ml $49

ST 91 WA 90

37 INTERVIEW PORTUGAL

DIRK NIEPOORT IS A PIONEER IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF STILL WINES IN THE DOURO REGION. PART OF THE FIFTH GENERATION OF A FAMILY OF WINE GROWERS FROM HOLLAND, HE GREW UP IN PORTO AND LATER STUDIED ECONOMICS IN SWITZERLAND. IT WAS DURING HIS STUDIES THAT HE DEVELOPED INTEREST IN THE NECTAR OF THE GODS. HIS PASSION, CURIOSITY AND LUCIDITY ARE CONTAGIOUS.

38 DIRK NIEPOORT

WHY IS DOURO SO UNIQUE AND GREAT?

It is unique in many ways: it is a huge area of over 45,000 hectares. The vineyards go from 80 to 800 metres in altitude, featuring all sorts of exposures and some 85 different varietals. Most of the world’s best vineyards don’t have this complexity.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN SUCCESS CRITERIA IN Quinta de Nápoles PRODUCING THE FINEST STILL WINES IN A REGION WHICH WINES DO YOU AS HOT AS DOURO? PREFER? AND, WHAT MAKES A GREAT WINE?

In my opinion, the main condition is the possi- bility to work with high-altitude vineyards Balance and harmony are the keywords. I’m that give us great balance between maturity increasingly attracted to wines that are light

and freshness. We are only just starting to figure and fine with low alcohol and lively acidity. PORTUGAL out the potential of white wine production More and more, I prefer to drink a simple in Douro. The future looks bright and great. honest wine to 99% of these modern, over-the- top, over-extracted, heavy and woody wines.

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES ( LAGARES, TERRACE VITICULTURE, ETC.) VERSUS MODERN TECHNIQUES?

I believe in respecting the traditional techniques more than using modern ways. Less is more in winemaking. Wine should above all reflect the beauty of its raw material: grapes.

TWENTY YEARS FROM NOW, WHAT WILL THE DOURO REGION BE LIKE?

Port has much to gain from wine, and wine has much to gain from port. There will be less port production, but of better quality. Wine will become an important player for the Douro and will promote tourism development.

39 DOURO

Franciscus Marius van der Niepoort left his native Holland and founded his celebrated family business in Vila Nova de Gaia in 1842. Beginning with port, the vineyard took an innovative step forward with the fifth gener- DIRK NIEPOORT: ation of the Niepoort family but still managed THE INTUITION, VISION to remain firmly attached to their traditions. AND KNOW-HOW In 1987, Eduard Dirk joined his father, Rolf, in the development of the estate’s first still wines. OF A PIONEER IN THE It was during this period that the Niepoorts DEVELOPMENT OF STILL successively acquired two vineyards in Cima WINES IN THE DOURO REGION. Corgo, which served as the launching point for their project: the Quinta de Nápoles and Quinta do Carril, both located on the left bank of the Tedo, a tributary of the Douro. Their first table wine, Robustus, was produced in 1990 and was followed by a series of remarkable wines that speak of the intuition, vision and know-how of these Douro pioneers. 74 75 76 REDOMA RESERVA 2011 OMLET 2010 CHARME 2010

“This fine Portuguese white wine is made from “ OmLet (Telmo backwards) is a partnership “Charme is a unique, original wine from Douro. PORTUGAL old vines of several local varietals (Rabigato, between Spanish star Telmo Rodríguez and Made from old vines grown in the coolest Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho, Arinto, etc.) Dirk Niepoort. The wine is made from a region of the Mendiz Valley and barrel-aged planted at high altitudes and fermented in combination of mainly old Touriga Franca, for 16 months, only the best barrels are used barrels. The wine is textured, subtle and Tinta Roriz and Sousão vines. Pure and to create the supreme combination. The wine captivating with a nose reminiscent of ripe elegant, it is aged for 20 months in new is light and subtle with notes of field straw- pears, limes and fennel and finishes with 500-litre French oak barrels giving the berries, pepper and cloves. The tannins are the aroma of almonds and peach pulp. wine an airy character. Restrained extraction elegant and silky with a hint of minerality on Complemented by toasted notes, the wine gives this wine an elegant reveal. It starts out the finish.” is aged in French barrels on fine lees, but fresh, with hints of raspberry and blackberry, — Signature Team without malolactic fermentation, giving it spiced up with scents of violet, incense and freshness, depth, elegance and a delicate sandalwood. A hint of spice similar to cloves character. It displays exemplary balance and appears at the midway point, all enveloped in 450 2018 750 ml $82 is both original and sophisticated.” the finest of tannic cloaks. The wine finishes deliciously on mineral notes.” — Signature Team ST 90 WS 90 — Signature Team

600 2018 750 ml $42 600 2020 750 ml $51 ST 94 WA 93 ST 91

OUR FAVOURITE

40 DOURO

Quinta de Nápoles 7 7 PORTUGAL BATUTA 2010

“ Dirk Niepoort described the Batuta vintage as full of contrasts. Intense without being exuberant, concentrated but fresh and elegant, he defines this wine as his most discreet. Made only from the best vintages, selected rigorously at the vine and in the cellar and then aged for 22 months in 30% new barrels, this fine, classic wine is far from the decadent fruit explosions sometimes typical of Portuguese wines. With aromas of graphite, violets and incense, Batuta is a wine of restraint and elegance that will certainly convince sceptics of Portugal’s enormous potential to produce fine wines.” — Signature Team

300 2016-2025 750 ml $82

ST 94 WA 90 WS 90 BATUTA IS DOMINATED BY TINTA AMARELA, A TEMPERAMENTAL WINE VARIETY CAPABLE OF GREAT THINGS, ACCORDING TO DIRK NIEPOORT. OUR FAVOURITE

41 DOURO

This estate is the work of Domingos Alves de Already the owner of 250 hectares of bio- Sousa, who quickly sensed the potential of dynamically raised grapes in the Rhone still wines from the Douro Valley. For several Valley, the very ambitious and visionary generations, the Alves de Sousa family supplied Michel Chapoutier began working his craft its grapes to major port producers, until the to perfection in another project located in the ’80s, when Domingos decided to market his Douro Valley. In 2008 he discovered Esteivera, wines himself. His property extends over five MICHEL CHAPOUTIER a tiny 3-hectare vineyard near Pinhão, in the quintas (estates), totalling 110 hectares. Some WORKS HIS MAGIC Cima Corgo, that grows old vines of Touriga parcels are over 80 years old. The property Nacional. Produced for the first time in ONCE MORE. THIS TIME produces a large variety of wines praised by the 2009, Pinteivera (a contraction of Pinhão local and international press. The Alves de Sousa IN THE DOURO VALLEY. and Esteivera) was produced from this single family is a two-time winner of the Producer of varietal. Michel Chapoutier is convinced that the Year award granted by the magazine Revista Touriga Nacional has the potential to become de Vinhos, a prestigious Portuguese wine one of the greatest red varietals in the world. publication. Domingos and his son Tiago are Never one for half measures, he breathed life the founders of the Independent Winegrowers back into this parcel of land, restoring the vines Association of Portugal. and terraces, and in the next few years he plans on making more acquisitions in the area and building a new winery. 78 79 80 QUINTA DA GAIVOSA 2008 ABANDONADO 2009 PINTEIVERA 2011

“ Produced from 80-year-old vines and 20- “The 2009 Abandonado, tasted only in Douro, “ Made entirely from the famous Touriga PORTUGAL odd varietals planted at Quinta da Gaivosa, is a typical old-vine field blend (80+ years) Nacional, Pinteivera immediately seduces this wine has a seductive nose with expansive aged for 18 months in a combination of with the quality and purity of its fruit. Its aro- notes that are initially evocative of chocolate, Portuguese and French oak. Those old vines, matic profile evokes licorice, ripe fruit (blue- blueberries and blackberries, then of woody says Tiago Alves de Sousa, include a lot of berries, cranberries, cherries), mild spices, spicy notes complemented by hints of violet. Sousão for acidity and Tinta Amarela. This dark chocolate, violets and minerals. The The mouth is straight and sleek with a fine makes this wine both intense and complex, a mouth is marked by high-quality compact, tannic structure and remarkable freshness. winter weight product with an herbal nuance tight tannins, and despite its obvious fullness, A wine that offers a lot of enjoyment instantly, and an exotic note. Rich at times and bursting it is not heavy at all. What a bargain! This is it’s already a success! Classically charming, the with flavor, it has notable tannins, a slight definitely a wine to be discovered!” balanced Quinta da Gaivosa 2008 will have roasted meat nuance and a lot of everything. — Signature Team you coming back for more.” It looks very much like one of the stars of the vintage.” — Signature Team — www.erobertparker.com 450 2023 750 ml $37

360 2023 750 ml $49 ST 92 WA 92-94 150 2022 750 ml $81 ST 92 WA 92 WA 94-96

OUR FAVOURITE

42 DOURO

It shouldn’t come as a surprise to hear that Quinta do Passadouro, in the Vale de Mendiz, is After having worked for a number of years as the Symington family is one of the largest located just north of Pinhão in the Cima Corgo. a winemaker at Real Companhia Velha, Jorge vineyard property owners in the Douro. Their Dieter Bohrmann, a businessman residing in Moreira started his own business under the impressive portfolio includes famous port Belgium and owner of the vineyard since 1991, Poeira brand in 2001. The vineyard, located in producers such as Dow’s, Graham’s, Quinta worked alongside Dirk Niepoort for a dozen Provesende, covers only nine hectares, all facing do Vesuvio, Smith Woodhouse and Warre’s. years before securing celebrated oenologist north and sheltered from the hot temperatures Though they have been making fortified wines Jorge Serôdio Borges (Wine & Soul) for the of the Douro slopes. This geographic location is since 1882, their production of still wines only development of his wines and ports at the partially responsible for the estate’s style, which began quite recently. In 1998, they called upon quinta. Historically, the best grapes on the focuses on freshness and acidity rather than the services of Bruno Prats, oenologist and the property were sent to produce their ports, but tannins and extraction. The Poeira facilities are owner of Château Cos d’Estournel in Saint- Bohrmann changed their manner of working. simple: traditional stone fermenters and an Estèphe for over three decades, to help pilot They are now used in the production of their antique vertical press which are still in use. The the new project. Chryseia, the Greek name for truly spectacular still wines. Touriga Nacional, estate willingly puts a lot of time and care into its Douro, which means golden, was launched in Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Sousão are wines. During the aging process, the estate also 2000. They chose to approach the project the main varietals grown on the 20-hectare sparingly uses new barrels (not more than 30%). from a Bordeaux philosophy, using fruit from vineyard and are vinified in the traditional three main quintas: Perdiz, Vila Velha and most manner—crushed in lagares by foot and then recently, Quinta de Roriz, which was acquired matured in oak barrels. A pleasure waiting to by the Symington family in 2009. be discovered!

8 8 8 1 2 3 PORTUGAL CHRYSEIA 2009 PASSADOURO RESERVA 2010 POEIRA 2010

“ The 2009 Chryseia is 70% Touriga Nacional “The 2010 Reserva is an old-vine field blend. “The 2010 Tinto, an old-vine field blend, is the and 30% Touriga Franca, aged for 13 months This is quite lovely and utterly charming. flagship estate wine here, aged for 14 months in new oak. The Symingtons’ recent acqui- Elegant and sophisticated, with a beautiful in oak (only 30% new), made with fruit from sition, the historic Quinta de Roriz estate, for mouthfeel, it is not terribly concentrated north-facing vineyards which, says winemaker the first time is in play here, making up nearly as Passadouro goes, but it has more than Jorge Moreira, performed well in this vintage. 40% of the blend (mainly with its Touriga sufficient depth. Its hallmark is its beautiful This should age gracefully and show more Nacional, I’m told). The rest is from Perdiz balance and elegance. It manages to show expressive fruit and earthy notes as it goes and Vila Velha.... While it retains its intensity some tension on the finish while promising along its journey.” of flavor ... it has begun to show a bit more harmony to come. It is quite tasty, too. — www.erobertparker.com class and integration, not just flamboyance It evolves beautifully in the glass. It is a nice and sex appeal.” statement in the vintage and good example of what this vintage does when it works.” — www.erobertparker.com 300 2020 750 ml $54 — www.erobertparker.com WA 91 360 2024 750 ml $69 300 2024 750 ml $57 WA 94 WA 92

43 DOURO

This estate was founded in 1877 by Antónia Established in 1716 by the legendary Dona Adelaide Ferreira and remained in the hands of Antonia Ferreira, this quinta (estate) produced her successors until Francisco Javier de Olazabal, grapes for the eponymous house port for her great-great-grandson, succeeded in purchas- the two centuries that followed. Ferreira’s ing the shares from the other members of his descendants are still running the estate, but family in 1994. Within the Ferreira wine empire, today their production focuses on a range of red this estate has been considered one of the wines bottled and marketed under the estate’s top-quality producers, and according to the name. In 1993, Nuno Magalhães, a professor rating of the Douro Valley vines, each of the of viticulture at the University of Upper Douro, estate’s parcels is classified “A” (the best vines was hired to completely restructure the vine- receive an “A” rating and the worst an “F” rating). yard. Consequently, co-planting was eliminated Historically, the making of the legendary Barca and each varietal was replanted separately. Velha consisted primarily of the estate’s harvest. However, some 20 of the original hectares, The 62-hectare estate rests on a multitude of aged approximately 80 years old, remain intact. terroirs (shale, granite and alluvium) and an New facilities were inaugurated in 2009. array of local grape varieties is cultivated here The property’s magnificent buildings include a (Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, welcome centre that earned the estate a Best Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Tinto Cão). of Wine Tourism award granted by the Great Wine Capitals Global Network. 84 85 QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO 2011 QUINTA DO VALLADO RESERVA 2011 “The 2011 Tinto, i.e., the flagship estate wine, PORTUGAL is 55% Touriga Nacional and 34% Touriga “ The 2011 Branco Reserva is principally Franca, plus dollops of Tinta Barroca and Gouveio (50%) and Arinto (35%) this year Tinta Roriz (6% and 5%, respectively), all with Rabigato (10%) and Viosinho (5%), vinified separately and then aged in French fermented and aged in French oak (37.5% barriques, 80% new and 20% second pass. new, the winery says with precision) for This has super potential, as yet unrealized. approximately seven months. Vallado has Xito Olazabal called it his best vintage yet. been gradually building its reputation as a Gorgeously constructed and beautifully fine white wine producer and this is a good balanced, this harmonious (one day) wine has example of why. Not perhaps the deepest everything going for it—a real backbone (yet wine, it is persistent and rather pure, with fine not overly astringent), an elegant mid-palate freshness and acidity and just an underlying that makes it light on its feet while retaining its tinge of oak that keeps fading as time goes concentration, and a fine finish that never lets on. As it airs out, it fleshes out and gains both the wine disappear. If all you think of Douro weight and persistence, becoming powerful Superior is “big and fat,” this will change your and penetrating on the finish. The juicy finish mind. Its hallmarks will be precision, balance is quite tasty and lingering.” and focus.” — www.erobertparker.com — www.erobertparker.com ALONG THE DOURO, 300 2018 750 ml $33 300 2016-2030 750 ml $79 THE SPLENDID QUINTA DE RORIZ OF PRATS & SYMINGTON. WA 92 WA 95

44 DOURO

In 1993, Cristiano Van Zeller left the Quinta do Since it was founded in 1880 by Adriano Ramos Noval family estate with the goal of producing Pinto, the Ramos Pinto estate has been a still wines to complement the region’s other pioneer in the study and production of many range of wines, which is largely dominated by Portuguese varietals. Their numerous innov- port. In 1996, he acquired this estate and its ations, advances in viticulture and blends some 10 hectares of vines that belonged to his are all done at their various vineyards. In 1990, wife Joanna’s family. After purchasing some the Roederer Group, owner of several estates neighbouring parcels and entering into long- including Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse term farming contracts with other neighbours, de Lalande in Bordeaux and Maison Delas in the estate now spans 31 hectares and is planted the Rhone Valley, acquired the estate. Frédéric with about 10 local varietals, some of which are Rouzaud, the great-grandson of Camille Olry- up to 50 years old. A brand new winemaking Roederer has been managing the property’s unit was recently installed. It is equipped with 360 hectares with perfection ever since. The four stainless steel temperature-controlled tanks estate is only supplied by its own vineyards and the same number of lagares, the traditional (Bom Retiro, Urtiga, Bons Ares and Ervamoira granite fermenters from Douro. quintas), which are meticulously maintained year after year. “Appreciating a good wine is an eminently cultural act that is deeply rooted in the European tradition,” says its founder, and we agree wholeheartedly. 8 8 8 6 7 8 PORTUGAL SOUSÃO 2011 VINHA DO RIO 2011 DUAS QUINTAS RESERVA ESPECIAL 2004 “ This unique vintage is made from Sousão “ Currently very young, this wine displays based on the purest Portuguese tradition, intense structure that leaves no doubt about “ The 2004 Reserva Especial was the first one which involves pressing the grapes by foot in the extracted content. Although still green, it I originally saw, a tightly wound, muscular wine lagares and aging the wine in oak barrels for has great potential for those who are willing to that seemed not to give an inch on release. 20 months. This technique is typically used wait. It already displays aromas of dried dates, Calling it closed was an understatement. It for ports and gives the wine concentrated black fruits, licorice and vanilla, and while it developed at a snail’s pace. As time has gone aromas of fruit combined with notes of sweet absorbs the wood for a few years, it will surely on, it has become more expressive, unwinding spices. This typical Portuguese wine is rich on have time to reach its peak.” enough to show its class and fruit and prove the palate with rounded tannins.” that it will be brilliant. Still tightly wound, and — Signature Team still a puppy, it is increasingly fine. Coupling — Signature Team power with precision, this has the potential to be the winery’s best Reserva Especial. It still 120 2018-2028 750 ml $144 has room for improvement.” 900 2018 750 ml $36 ST 91-93 WA 92+ — www.erobertparker.com ST 90 WA 91

312 2030 750 ml $69

WA 95

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