AUSTRALIAN SPARKLING AUSTRALIAN SPARKLING

Aussie fizz: bubbling under has seen its sparkling exports struggle in recent years, muscled out by the more commercial and quality local alternatives. But the standard from the country’s top sites and world-class producers has never been better, argues Susie Barrie MW, who selects 10 of the very best examples

DISAPPOINTED. THAT’S HOW Dr Andrew Pirie, one of is testament to a man who knows exactly what he’s Australia’s leading sparkling winemakers, felt after a doing when it comes to making top-quality traditional- recent visit to London. Sitting on a sunlit terrace at his method . base in northern Tasmania, Pirie tells me how he was offered either Perrier-Jouët or English Tough market sparkling wine when he asked for a glass of . This is all at a time when sparkling wine in general is ‘That’s where we’ve got to be,’ he stated. ‘We need to having a moment. It has been the world’s fastest be seen as an alternative to Champagne – but England’s growing wine category over the last 25 years and, at snapping up that position.’ almost 270 million cases, now accounts for close to 10% Most wine lovers would agree that Australia has of global wine sales. never made finer wine, in more diverse styles, than The UK, along with the US, imports more sparkling now. It’s a golden age – sparkling wine included. wine than any other country. And growth continues Never before has such a range of (even if some categories have shown wine styles been produced, ranging signs of slowing), with increases from pét-nat to , sparkling ‘It seems our thirst predicted to continue through to Shiraz to world-class traditional- 2022. It seems our thirst for bubbles method . for bubbles knows no knows no bounds. Australian producers, too, seem Though not, apparently, our to be increasingly confident in their bounds – though not, thirst for Australian bubbles. The ability to make top-notch fizz from UK’s largest supermarket chain, the best sites, and their ambition apparently, our thirst Tesco, doesn’t stock a single bottle and dedication is being rewarded in its stores. According to The Wine with a growing number of for Australian bubbles’ Society’s buyer Sarah Knowles MW, international awards. Only last year, it’s at best a ‘niche’ category. Only Ed Carr – group head winemaker for Accolade Wines sparkling red Shiraz, which Knowles describes as ‘the and another of Australia’s top sparkling winemakers mainstay of Australian sparkling’ has gained enough – received the Lifetime Achievement Award at the recognition with Society members and created a small Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships in but strong-enough foothold to retain a consistent listing London, the only non-champenois to do so. over the past couple of decades, albeit of just one wine. As Carr states when asked about the evolution of the A quick glance at the figures shows sales in the UK of Australian sparkling wine industry: ‘In the last 40 years Australian sparkling fell dramatically in the year to there’s been a real maturity of styles, guys have learned September 2018 (see box, p66). This could, of course, be how to make sparkling wine and locked in on a house attributed to our love of Italian Prosecco at the cheaper style, which is really important.’ Carr’s long-aged, end of the market, and our increasing fondness for complex and savoury House of Arras wines are superb, English sparkling wine when we’re looking for an

Photograph:MikePrior; Andrew Coleman/Alamy and the string of awards they have won in recent years alternative to Champagne. No one, and certainly not ➢

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Left: Domaine Chandon’s Green Point vineyard, established in Victoria’s in 1986

Chardonnay or in the early 1970s and although various sizeable sparkling wine projects were begun in the 19th and 20th centuries in Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania, it wasn’t until the 1970s and ’80s that the real evolution to cool- sparkling winemaking began. In 1973, Pirie established Piper’s Brook Vineyard in northern Tasmania; in 1985, Champagne house Louis Roederer began a joint-venture with Tasmania’s Heemskerk (resulting in the now world-renowned Jansz label); in 1986, Clover Hill was established in Above: Dr Andrew Pirie established Piper’s Piper’s River and, in the same year, Domaine Brook Vineyard in northern Tasmania in 1973 Chandon in the Yarra Valley, Victoria; and in 1995 the House of Arras label was created, me, would argue against either of these again in Tasmania. Together, these projects categories. But surely there’s also room for heralded a new dawn in the evolution of more of the best Australia has to offer? Australian sparkling wine. David Gleave MW, managing director of Today, the key regions for sparkling wine Australian specialist Liberty Wines, believes include and various other parts of it’s not a case of English sparkling wine Victoria, as well as in South pushing other countries out – quite the Australia, and Tasmania. King Valley, in the opposite. ‘English wines have opened up the northeast of Victoria and one of its higher, sparkling category, they’ve unlocked the ‘We need to be seen as an alternative to cooler sub-regions, is increasingly building a Champagne stronghold and people now think reputation as a little prosecco hub with some it’s okay to have other sparkling wines,’ he Champagne – but England’s snapping up exciting examples from the likes of Dal Zotto says. ‘People have become so much more and Pizzini. open-minded about sparkling wine.’ Perhaps that position’ Dr Andrew Pirie (above left) partly as a result of this, Gleave began listing Italian influence the House of Arras wines a couple of years ago Using the term prosecco to describe as a high-end offering from Australia. category towards wines that are lighter, Australian wines is, however, currently being fresher, more characterful and exciting to contested by the EU. Italian producers Mixed messages drink, within the sparkling category too there officially changed the name of the prosecco A recent visit confirmed to me the diversity is a move towards higher quality and grape variety to a decade ago, at the and exceptional quality in the sector. As if individuality across a range of styles. same time registering the region of production mirroring the trend within the Australian still But perhaps it’s that very diversity and as Prosecco DOC and claiming prosecco was a individuality that is at issue. As consumers, we geographical name. Prosecco grapes have been have a fairly clear idea of what to expect when Ed Carr grown and the name used in Australia buying Champagne, Prosecco, English for 20 years, but it’s likely that some form of Australian sparkling: the facts sparkling wine, , even crémant. By compromise will need to be found and one of contrast, the sheer variety of sparkling styles the current suggestions is the use of the term • Globally 270m cases of sparkling • New Zealand is the largest coming out of Australia makes it almost ‘Australian prosecco’. Whatever the outcome, wine are produced annually (10% of importer of Australian sparkling impossible for the phrase ‘Australian sparkling it’s a style that’s proving hugely popular with total wine production) and sales are ; New Zealand and wine’ to have any real meaning. In order to Australian consumers. in growth Canada are the biggest markets for want to buy these wines, we need to It is unlikely, however, we’re going to see • Australia produces 7m cases of Australian sparkling , and understand them better and appreciate what much Australian prosecco in the UK due to sparkling wine per annum mainland China for its sparkling red each bottle will bring to the table. the cost. As Gleave says: ‘I think there are • Sparkling wine accounts for less • Australian sparkling wine sales The history of Australian sparkling wine some things that work well in the Australian than 1% of total Australian wine are flat in the domestic market, with goes back to the mid-19th century, not long market, but by the time you get them over here exports Prosecco the fastest growing after the British established a penal colony in I’m not sure they would rival what you can do • Australian sparkling wine exports category in the off-trade nationally Botany Bay. The early wines were made from with [Italian] Prosecco.’ The Wine Society’s have declined over the last decade non-classic varieties grown in warm inland Knowles also looked at listing an Australian and exports to the UK fell by 43% in Figures as of 2017. Sources: IWSR, regions unsuited to fine sparkling prosecco-style wine, but found that ultimately, the year to September 2018 , IRI MarketEdge winemaking. It’s worth remembering that ‘the wines didn’t offer quite the same value as Pizzini Wines Australia had virtually no plantings of Photographs:KevinO’Daly; KevinJudd/Cephas; Jamie Durrant other tank-method wines we could source ➢

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from across Europe’. What you are most likely money given their premium quality. The finest with its maritime influence and relative to find in the UK are the high-end, beautifully come from Adelaide Hills, pockets of Victoria humidity, has to date been the leading name artisanal style Australian proseccos stocked and Tasmania, with the latter being the name and is favoured by both Pirie and Fryer, there by smaller independent merchants. most often on people’s lips when it comes to are sub-regions from north to south producing Beyond prosecco, sparkling Shiraz and sourcing high-end Australian fizz. exceptional fruit. Ed Carr increasingly sources pét-nat are styles with their own niche Tasmania lies at 41° to 43° latitude and the fruit from the island’s south for his House of following. The former was first produced in grapes grown here benefit from a very long, Arras wines, and the likes of Stefano Lubiana the late 19th century and has become a firm slow growing season. When comparing are already showing the potential of this part favourite with its loyal followers, often as a Tasmanian sparkling wine to Champagne, of the island. refreshing but robust summer barbecue wine. Natalie Fryer of Bellebonne sees the Within my recommendations I have aimed By contrast, pétillant naturel wines are the distinguishing point as: ‘The fruit power, to include as broad a range of styles and new kids on the block, largely the creation of though not simple primary fruit: you will see sub-regions as possible, but they are very young, hipster winemakers seeking a more pristine fruit in that you much a starting point. I have suggested wines natural approach. These wines are made by won’t generally see anywhere else.’ Fryer set that I believe are some of the finest Australia temporarily stopping the fermentation, her heart on becoming a winemaker at the currently has to offer, along with more bottling the wine, and then allowing the tender age of 12, and it was while working at esoteric, new wines. What they all have in fermentation to complete. The result is a dry, Seppelts Great Western in Victoria that she common is that they are top-quality examples cloudy and gently sparkling wine that has bags ‘just fell in love with sparkling wine’. of Australian sparkling wines that are superb of character. Following a stint at Jansz in Tasmania, she by anyone’s standards and well worth seeking recently began her own project, Bellebonne, in out. None will leave you disappointed. D Quality hotspots Piper’s River, and her early releases suggest But the wines really worth seeking out are the this is a name that is well worth remembering. ‘You will see pristine fruit in Tasmanian wine Susie Barrie MW is a widely published wine traditional-method sparkling wines made It is, however, still early days for the modern writer, author and broadcaster. Married to Peter from , Pinot Noir and occasionally Tasmanian industry, which is less than 50 that you won’t generally see anywhere else’ Richards MW, together they run a wine school that can offer superb value for years old. Although Piper’s River in the north, Natalie Fryer, Bellebonne Wines (above) and wine festival in Winchester

Barrie’s pick: 10 top sparkling wines from Australia of her Bellebonne Cuvée from your tracks. Made from whole bunch- and tangy acidity with a lively mousse in Piper’s River is exactly that. From its pale pressed Chardonnay, without fining, this simple but highly enjoyable sparkler. House of Arras, EJ Carr Late Disgorged, note and some dry-roasted nut flavours principles. With seven years on lees and straw colour to its fine mousse and subtle and packed with rustic, caramelised Drink 2019-2020 Alc 11.5% Tasmania 2004 98 to the palate, while the finish is long and more than two on , this Chardonnay- orchard fruit flavours, it is delicate and apple fruit, it is the ultimate summer £57.95 (2003) The Vinorium elegant. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 12.5% dominant blend is rich, intense and refined with a fresh, ethereal finish. picnic wine and one that I personally Dal Zotto, Pucino Col Fondo, King Valley, Following 12 years on lees, this blend bready, with a soft mousse and a long, Drink 2019-2020 Alc 12% adore. Drink 2019-2020 Alc 13.2% Victoria 2017 92 of two-thirds Chardonnay with Pinot 1 Pirie, Sparkling Vintage, dry finish. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12.5% £23-£27 (2016) Red Squirrel, Seven Cellars, 5 6 Noir is a truly magnificent wine. 1 Tasmania 2011 96 Blackwood Hill, Spark Blanc de Blanc Redbank, Emily Brut Cuvée NV, The Grape Escape Cheltenham Incredibly fresh for its age, it is £35.20 Grape & Grain, Hangingditch 3 De Salis, Blanc de Blanc, Orange, Brut NV, Yarra Valley, Victoria 94 King Valley, Victoria 92 Col fondo is a traditional way of making intensely savoury, with notes of Wine Merchants, The Horsham Cellar, The 2014 96 N/A UK www.blackwoodhill.com.au £15.95 John E Fells, Oliver & Bird Prosecco in which the second truffle, cream and lemon curd. Long, Wine Reserve, Wadebridge Wines N/A UK www.desaliswines.com.au The Calder family describe themselves as A wonderfully fresh and easygoing fizz fermentation happens in bottle and with the capacity to age for several Beautifully stylish and accomplished Charlie Svenson makes both sparkling producers of ‘classic natural wines’ and that offers great value for money. There’s there’s no disgorging of the lees at the years, this is a special occasion wine wine hailing from the cool Tamar and still wines at his high-altitude, small this is a fizz guaranteed to stop you in a lovely balance of juicy red berry fruit end of the process. The result is a cloudy, with a price-tag to match. Drink Valley. Exudes aromas of cream, family in cool-climate Orange. His slightly funky and dry style of fizz, which 2019-2029 Alcohol 12.6% butter and spice, with palate notes approach is unashamedly minimalist and in this case has some juicy baked red pear of toasted hazelnut from the his wines have incredible energy and 2 3 4 5 6 7 fruit too. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 12.2% House of Arras, Grand Vintage, barrel-aged base wine. If you character as a result. The Blanc de Blanc Tasmania 2008 97 can’t get hold of this one, the is the star of a superb range; deep 7 Apogee, Deluxe Vintage Rosé, £28.50-£41.30 Bottle Apostle, NV (£27.50 The Wine Society) lemon/gold in colour with aromas of Tasmania 2015 96 Exel, Harrods, Liberty Wines, is a decent alternative. Drink baked apple, truffle and honey. It is dry N/A UK www.apogeetasmania.com Oz Wines, Philglas & Swiggot, 2019-2022 Alc 12.5% and beautifully poised, boasting a fine Apogee was established in 2007 by Simply Wines Direct, The lively mousse and a long mineral finish. Dr Andrew Pirie with the aim of making Australian Cellar, The Fine Wine 2 Stefano Lubiana, Grande Drink 2019-2025 Alc 12% -driven wines grown in Piper’s Co, The Vinorium Vintage, Tasmania 2008 96 River on a high-altitude, 2ha single A compellingly rich, savoury, N/A UK www.slw.com.au 4 Bellebonne, Vintage Cuvée, Tasmania vineyard. This is a Pinot Noir-dominant sumptuous fizz with a fine Located in the Derwent 2015 95 blend that shows bold flavours of bruised mousse, yeasty autolysis and Valley to the south of N/A UK www.bellebonne.wine red apple, spice, bread and honey. Still saline minerality. A touch of Tasmania, the Lubiana estate Natalie Fryer claims that her wines are young but with enormous potential. adds a wonderfully taut is farmed on biodynamic ‘always about elegance’, and this first Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.3%

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