Regal riesling extends its reign 274_Part_A_Front.indd 34 9/12/2015 9:11:05 AM DAN TRAUCKI UNTIL fairly recently riesling was synonymous with being lots of talk of a “chardonnay revival”, in vintage has been growing not only in size but also in German wine. It is the noble grape variety that for 2015, riesling prices in South Australia exceeded the relevance to the riesling world. As chairman, Helm hundreds of years made the best of, as well as most prices of chardonnay in every region in which both says: “This is not just another wine show, it is an event of, Germany’s white wine. These wines were mainly varieties are grown. to promote riesling from the vineyard through to the low in alcohol, around 8-11 per cent and in most The second part of the riesling story starts in 2000, consumer. Imparting knowledge about riesling is cases anywhere from slightly sweet through to the when respected Canberra winemaker, Ken Helm AM, the essence of the event. Our aim is to be the world amazingly sweet trockenbeerenauslese style. Only created the Canberra Riesling Challenge in order to centre for communicating riesling knowledge”. In a small proportion was dry (kabinet) in style. benchmark and promote rieslings from across the keeping with this theme, the organisers announced The winds of change started as a zephyr in 1953, nation. The aim being to improve the quality and that from 2015 onwards, one of the masterclasses when under the inspired leadership of Colin Gramp appreciation of Australian riesling. In the same year conducted as part of the CIRC would feature a AM, Orlando Wines made the first modern white wine Clare Valley winemakers unanimously adopted the riesling growing region of the world. The masterclass in Australia using a pressure fermentation vessel use of screwcaps to preserve their rieslings and other will cover the geography, topography, climate and a imported from Germany. Until then Australian white wines, leading to a global revolution, which is seeing tasting of some of the rieslings made in the area. To wines were made in an oxidative environment, which meant that most were dull, yellow/brown in colour and not very appealing. With the new pressure vessel it was possible to make the wine without any exposure This is not just another wine show, to air/oxygen and thereby make a wine that was fresh, crisp and delightful. Standard practice today, it is an event to promote riesling but a novel concept then. The variety used was riesling, which in those days from the vineyard through to was called Rhine riesling in Australia, to differentiate it from Hunter riesling (semillon) and Clare riesling (crouchen). the consumer. That wine turned the Australian wine drinking scene on its ear and it wasn’t very long before white wine, the phasing out of “old closure technology” (corks), kick this new feature off, Kerri Thompson and Neil more specifically riesling, was King with a whole in favour of the more efficient and safer screwcaps. Pike presented a look at the Clare Valley. It will be new generation of Aussies learning to drink wine by It was also the year that the Label Integrity Program interesting to see which area is showcased in 2016. enjoying this delicious white wine. (LIP) was introduced so that only wine made from The 2015 event was conducted (as in previous The German monarch’s reign did not last very the riesling grape variety could be called riesling, years) at the Hyatt Hotel Canberra, which is long because by the end of the 1980s the French with no more “Hunter riesling” (semillon) or “Clare known not only for its 1920s decor but also for its usurper chardonnay had conquered the kingdom. riesling” (crouchen) being allowed. This has led to outstanding and friendly service, as well as being Ever since rumours circulated around the kingdom the disappearance of the ubiquitous “riesling cask” one of the sponsors of the event. The 2015 CIRC that the vanquished King riesling was about to make made from any grape variety, usually sultana or had almost 500 entries from seven of the eight a comeback. These rumours were pointless because gordo, which bore no resemblance to true riesling. largest riesling producers in the world, with only the reality is that discerning wine drinkers never really However, putting the word “riesling” on these casks Austria missing. walked away from riesling. They have been enjoying had a very negative impact on consumer impression The judging panel was almost as cosmopolitan; quality riesling all along and now the wine’s appeal of this noble variety. the chairman of judges being a New Zealander, is spreading to other white wine drinkers who are From humble beginings16 years ago the Canberra with the panel of six judges including a German and looking for a more engaging and sophisticated white Riesling Challenge, now appropriately named the an American judge. The US judge, Jim Trezise, is wine. This is evidenced by the fact that despite there Canberra International Riesling Challenge (CIRC), founder and president of the International Riesling Annual 2016 WINESTATE 35 274_Part_A_Front.indd 35 9/12/2015 9:11:06 AM Foundation (IRF), a coalition of top riesling producers entrant, the Sheldrake Point Winery, with its 2014 Both chairman Ken Helm AM and ambassador Wolf from around the world, including Australia. The Wild Ferment Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes, New Blass AM declared the 2015 rieslings from across IRF has created a “riesling taste profile” and is York. In previous years this trophy has been won Australia and the southern hemisphere are some encouraging riesling producers around the world to by Germany, New Zealand and Australia. Thus four of the best they have seen. Helm said: “the 2015 incorporate it into their back label (free of charge) to out of the competing seven nations have won this Canberra rieslings are the best that the region has advise purchasers/consumers how dry or sweet that prestigious trophy. ever produced”. particular riesling is. This move is aimed at avoiding This year’s Best in Australia trophy was won by The upshot of this world-class wine event is that the shock of opening a bottle that is presumed to Tamar Valley winery Chartley Estate, with its 2014 no matter which way you look at things, the future ENTRIES be dry and finding it is sweet, or vice versa. To riesling. It also won the Best Dry Riesling trophy for both riesling (here and around the world) and date some 26 million bottles of riesling have been and the Best Riesling from Tasmania trophy. for the Canberra International Riesling Challenge produced with the scale on the back label. I would Coincidentally Loraine and Peter Kossmann planted is looking pretty damn good. Riesling will never encourage all Australian riesling producers to adopt their 4ha vineyard in 2000, the year the CIRC started. challenge whatever white variety is the “fad of the this scale, especially those exporting to Asia. Today their vineyard has expanded to 10ha and is moment”, instead it will continue to grow and earn OPEN The trophy presentation at the Hyatt Hotel, was planted to riesling, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and respect of serious wine drinkers as the most regal of an excellent, star-studded affair, with the presence pinot noir. With the riesling vines 15 years old, they white wines, which unlike most other white varieties of the winners, judges, the ACT Chief Minister, the have really hit their “straps” as is attested by the can be appreciated in its youth, in its middle ages New Zealand Ambassador, a representative of the triple trophy win. and as a real old-timer. Twenty to fifty-year-old CANBERRA American Embassy (the US Ambassador was due to Lorraine says: “Winning the triple trophy has rieslings are an absolute joy. Likewise, the CIRC will 1 JUNE present their trophy, but was called away) and three created enormous attention, which is great because continue to evolve and grow in stature as the world’s INTERNATIONAL German ambassadors – the current Ambassador, the as a small producer you don’t get much attention in premier riesling event. I look forward to watching this former Ambassador (who created the trophy for Best the media. It has opened up new opportunities, not development. European Riesling) and, of course, the permanent only in Australia, but overseas as well. It is fantastic. Discussions are underway to try to ensure that the German Riesling Ambassador to the world - Wolf Our vineyard is in the Rowella area, on the banks of Austrians, Canadians and other riesling producing 2016 RIESLING Blass AM. the Tamar River, and so is Waterton Wines, which nations, participate in 2016. For the first time the Canberra International won the Best Museum trophy, giving the area four Riesling Challenge Trophy was won by a US trophies out of the 11 awarded”. CHALLENGE 2015 results... 10-15 OCT Best Wine of the 2015 Challenge, Best Riesling from New Zealand Encouragement Award for up and coming Canberra International Riesling Glover Family Vineyard, Zephyr Riesling 2014. Australian Riesling Winemakers Challenge Trophy Shaw Vineyard Estate - Stephanie Helm, The Sheldrake Point Winery, 2014 Wild Ferment Best European Riesling, German Vintner’s Daughter. Riesling Ice Wine, Finger Lakes, US. Ambassador’s Perpetual Trophy G.H. von Mumm, 2013 Riesling Eilfer, Rheingau, The prestigious Wolf Blass Award, Wolf Best in Australia, ACT Government and Germany. Blass Foundation 2016 Hyatt Hotel Canberra Trophy Awarded biannually to a person or organisation Chartley Estate, Chartley Estate Riesling Best American Riesling, USA Embassy in Australia or New Zealand who has made 2014, Tasmania, Australia.