Culture — —Culture
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Marrakech Marrakech Culture — —Culture Museums and public galleries Culture Weighty institutions — Stealing the scene Macaal, Annakhil Creative mission The Musée d’Art Contemporain Morocco has long been Africain Al Maaden (Macaal) a magnet for artists who has been shaking up the art have drawn inspiration scene since it was founded in from its multifarious 2016 by property magnate landscapes, hazy light Alami Lazraq and his son and artistic heritage. And Othman (see page 124). The yet, it’s only since the ethos: this is a private museum mid-2000s that African art with a very public vision. – especially that created Macaal is dedicated to bringing in the past century – has contemporary African art to begun to receive the a broader audience through recognition it deserves. rotating exhibitions of its ever- Musée Mathaf Farid Belkahia, Since the 1950s a clutch growing collection, which the Annakhil of commercial galleries family began amassing some Artistic legacy has opened in the city, 40 years ago, and a diverse particularly in the modern education programme. If you plan to visit the Musée neighbourhood of Gueliz. Designed by French architect de la Palmeraie (see page 81) Together with the advent Didier Lefort, the geometric – which is worth it for the of world-class museums building is an architectural feat jaw-dropping cactus garden such as the Musée Yves with a naturally lit interior and a alone – be sure to pop into this Saint Laurent and Macaal, sculpture garden that doubles as museum devoted to the late and the arrival of 1-54 a cinema. Macaal is an extension Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia. Contemporary African Art of the family’s not-for-profit A taxi from the city centre Fair on home soil, these association Fondation Alliances, takes roughly 20 minutes. have shifted the focus which supports cultural Belkahia was born into a of the art market from development in Morocco. bourgeois family in Marrakech Casablanca and Rabat Al Maaden, Sidi Youssef, Ben Ali and grew up surrounded by to Marrakech. 1212 (0)6 7692 4492 art and those who create it. Of course, the higgledy- macaal.org He went on to study at various piggledy medina is also academies in Europe and home to a range of artistic became one of Morocco’s most ventures, including one or Art to the fore distinguished modern artists. two foundations promoting — On permanent display at Moroccan culture through Next door to Macaal is the Musée Mathaf Farid Belkahia diverse exhibitions and Parc de Sculptures Al Maaden, – housed within the studio events. Sadly the live- another initiative by Fondation where the artist worked for music scene here leaves Alliances. Peppered throughout almost 30 years – is a vast a lot to be desired – rather the golf course are site- selection of his works, from than smooth jazz, think specific, large-scale sculptures paintings and metalwork to cabaret and neon lights. made by artists who hail naturally dyed leather. So skip that and get your from Morocco, China, India, Dar Tounsi, BP 649 Marrakech cultural fix from the visual- Argentina and more. Principale, Palmeraie Nord almaaden.golf arts offering instead. 1212 (0)5 2432 8959 fondationfaridbelkahia.com 060 061 Marrakech Marrakech Culture — —Culture Macma, Gueliz Passion project Founded in 2016 by art collector Nabil El Mallouki, the Musée d’Art et de Culture de Marrakech (Macma) was built upon a collection of Moroccan artefacts and orientalist paintings. El Mallouki worked in banking before leaving his job and founding the nearby Matisse Art Gallery (see page 66) in 1999. “The bank was my job; art is my passion,” he says. In 2018 he established The Orientalist Museum too. Alongside a permanent collection, Macma hosts temporary exhibitions that celebrate subjects including the history of Moroccan photography and film posters. Passage Ghandouri, Musée de Mouassine, Medina 61 Rue Yougoslavie Maison de la Photographie, Original home 1212 (0)7 0024 2572 Medina museemacma.com House of cards This museum may be dedicated to the arts of Opened by Hamid Mergani Morocco but it’s also and Patrick Manac’h in 2009, architecturally intriguing, Maison de la Photographie located in a traditional presents some 10,000 residence built in the 17th photographs taken between century and originally split 1870 and 1960. Highlights into two parts (public and include a series of 1960s private). Painstakingly restored postcards showcasing typical between 2012 and 2014, the scenes in Marrakech, while awe-inspiring structure retains Daniel Chicault’s documentary many of its original elements, colour photographs and including multi-coloured a rare set of 800 glass plates tiled floors, intricately carved capture the wild landscape wooden doors and pink plaster of the High Atlas and their walls in the central courtyard. Berber residents. The museum is inextricably Exhibitions have explored linked to the painter Abdelhay everything from palm groves Mellakh, who was born to Moroccan women. Draw in the house in 1947 and back the curtains that whose studio remains intact. conceal the doorways to each Exhibitions have focused on room – like an old-school themes such as decorative art photographer dipping beneath and 16th-century architecture, a hood – and be sure to pick while musical evenings take up a couple of prints and place from October to May. postcards before you leave. 4-5 Derb El Hammam, 46 Rue Souk Ahal Fassi Rue Mouassine 1212 (0)5 2438 5721 1212 (0)5 2438 5721 maisondelaphotographie.ma museedemouassine.com 062 063 Marrakech Marrakech Culture — —Culture Commercial galleries Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Trading places Galerie 127, Gueliz Comptoir des Mines Majorelle Talent incubator Galerie, Gueliz House design Artistic residence It’s easy to miss Nathalie Though Yves Saint Laurent Locatelli’s photography This peach-coloured art gallery was steeped in the exquisite gallery, located on the is the most recent offering from world of Parisian haute second floor of a mixed- Hicham Daoudi, president of couture, he spent much of his purpose building on Avenue Art Holding Morocco, who time in Morocco. “While Paris Mohammed V. Erected in started out in agriculture before is about creation, this is about 1922, the art deco complex trading crops for canvases. In emotion and inspiration,” was originally divided into 2002 he established cmooa (an says Björn Dahlström, the apartments and is now also auction house in Casablanca) Casablanca-born director of home to various medical and in 2009 launched Diptyk the Musée Yves Saint Laurent. practices. “Yes, it’s an unusual (see page 71), Morocco’s first “It was here he discovered mix,” she says with a smile. contemporary-art magazine. colour: the pinks, reds and Locatelli founded Gallery He went on to found Comptoir oranges he was known for.” 127 in 2006 and, to this day, des Mines Galerie in 2016. This hugely popular it’s the only gallery dedicated The gallery is sprawled museum was designed by to photography in Morocco. across an art deco building Paris-based architecture “There still isn’t a great (see page 74). It focuses on Musée Berbère, Majorelle firm Studio KO see( pages demand for photography contemporary Moroccan art, Traditional beauty 72 to 73) and opened in 2017. in Africa and it’s my aim to collaborating with artists – The black interior of the change that,” says Locatelli. who are often invited to stay Tucked away in the lush oasis permanent exhibit is lined with Her approach centres around on-site – from initial concept of the Jardin Majorelle (see page documents and photographs forging relationships with to realisation. The exhibitions 80), the Musée Berbère shines from the designer’s life, as artists at the outset of their change every two months a spotlight on Berber art and well as projections of catwalk careers and sticking with them and run the gamut of culture. Yves Saint Laurent’s models marching like newly as their style develops – she’s paintings and sculptures business partner and great shod ponies showing off been with some for more than to installations. love of 50 years, Pierre Bergé, his creations. a decade. “It’s a real passion.” 62 Rue Yougoslavie founded the museum in 2011, Rue Yves Saint Laurent 2F, 127 Avenue Mohammed V 1212 (0)6 6301 0191 six years before he established 1212 (0)5 2429 8686 1212 (0)5 2443 2667 comptoirdesminesgalerie.com the nearby Musée Yves Saint museeyslmarrakech.com galerie127.com Laurent (see right). The permanent exhibition features more than 600 objects, from the 18th century to the 1960s, that provide a window onto the north African indigenous tribes found between the Rif and the Sahara. Traditional craftsmanship skills are on display in everyday and ceremonial artefacts, while the rituals of the Berbers are expressed through festive costumes. A highlight is the mirrored room of jewels: the starry ceiling adds to the sense of bedazzlement as you admire silver necklaces and wrist cuffs studded with amber and coral. Rue Yves Saint Laurent 1212 (0)5 2429 8686 jardinmajorelle.com 064 065 Marrakech Marrakech Culture — —Culture Matisse Art Gallery, Gueliz Mixed exhibits Matisse Art Gallery opened in 1999 in the Passage Ghandouri, a stone’s throw from Macma (see page 63). Ever since, the two floors behind its black-marble façade have played host to some of the most renowned names on the Moroccan art scene – including Farid Belkahia, Mahi Binebine and Hassan El Glaoui – as well as up-and-coming artists. Passage Ghandouri, 61 Rue Yougoslavie 1212 (0)5 2444 8326 David Bloch Gallery, Gueliz Voice Gallery, Ménara Fair game Spirited collaboration Breeding ground It wasn’t until Vanessa The sleek façade of this For Italian Rocco Orlacchio Branson (sister to Richard) ground-floor Gueliz gallery (pictured), running a gallery is set up the Marrakech Biennale is lined with floor-to-ceiling about creating a community in 2004 that a spotlight, albeit windows that provide a good of talent from disparate a rather patchy one, began view of the contemporary backgrounds.