Marrakech Marrakech Culture — —Culture

Museums and public galleries Culture Weighty institutions — Stealing the scene

Macaal, Annakhil Creative mission

The Musée d’Art Contemporain has long been Africain Al Maaden (Macaal) a magnet for artists who has been shaking up the art have drawn inspiration scene since it was founded in from its multifarious 2016 by property magnate landscapes, hazy light Alami Lazraq and his son and artistic heritage. And Othman (see page 124). The yet, it’s only since the ethos: this is a private museum mid-2000s that African art with a very public vision. – especially that created Macaal is dedicated to bringing in the past century – has contemporary African art to begun to receive the a broader audience through recognition it deserves. rotating exhibitions of its ever- Musée Mathaf Farid Belkahia, Since the 1950s a clutch growing collection, which the Annakhil of commercial galleries family began amassing some Artistic legacy has opened in the city, 40 years ago, and a diverse particularly in the modern education programme. If you plan to visit the Musée neighbourhood of Gueliz. Designed by French architect de la Palmeraie (see page 81) Together with the advent Didier Lefort, the geometric – which is worth it for the of world-class museums building is an architectural feat jaw-dropping cactus garden such as the Musée Yves with a naturally lit interior and a alone – be sure to pop into this Saint Laurent and Macaal, sculpture garden that doubles as museum devoted to the late and the arrival of 1-54 a cinema. Macaal is an extension Moroccan artist Farid Belkahia. Contemporary African Art of the family’s not-for-profit A taxi from the city centre Fair on home soil, these association Fondation Alliances, takes roughly 20 minutes. have shifted the focus which supports cultural Belkahia was born into a of the art market from development in Morocco. bourgeois family in Marrakech and Al Maaden, Sidi Youssef, Ben Ali and grew up surrounded by to Marrakech. 1212 (0)6 7692 4492 art and those who create it. Of course, the higgledy- macaal.org He went on to study at various piggledy medina is also academies in Europe and home to a range of artistic became one of Morocco’s most ventures, including one or Art to the fore distinguished modern artists. two foundations promoting — On permanent display at Moroccan culture through Next door to Macaal is the Musée Mathaf Farid Belkahia diverse exhibitions and Parc de Sculptures Al Maaden, – housed within the studio events. Sadly the live- another initiative by Fondation where the artist worked for music scene here leaves Alliances. Peppered throughout almost 30 years – is a vast a lot to be desired – rather the golf course are site- selection of his works, from than smooth jazz, think specific, large-scale sculptures paintings and metalwork to cabaret and neon lights. made by artists who hail naturally dyed leather. So skip that and get your from Morocco, China, India, Dar Tounsi, BP 649 Marrakech cultural fix from the visual- Argentina and more. Principale, Palmeraie Nord almaaden.golf arts offering instead. 1212 (0)5 2432 8959 fondationfaridbelkahia.com

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Macma, Gueliz Passion project

Founded in 2016 by art collector Nabil El Mallouki, the Musée d’Art et de Culture de Marrakech (Macma) was built upon a collection of Moroccan artefacts and orientalist paintings. El Mallouki worked in banking before leaving his job and founding the nearby Matisse Art Gallery (see page 66) in 1999. “The bank was my job; art is my passion,” he says. In 2018 he established The Orientalist Museum too. Alongside a permanent collection, Macma hosts temporary exhibitions that celebrate subjects including the history of Moroccan photography and film posters. Passage Ghandouri, Musée de Mouassine, Medina 61 Rue Yougoslavie Maison de la Photographie, Original home 1212 (0)7 0024 2572 Medina museemacma.com House of cards This museum may be dedicated to the arts of Opened by Hamid Mergani Morocco but it’s also and Patrick Manac’h in 2009, architecturally intriguing, Maison de la Photographie located in a traditional presents some 10,000 residence built in the 17th photographs taken between century and originally split 1870 and 1960. Highlights into two parts (public and include a series of 1960s private). Painstakingly restored postcards showcasing typical between 2012 and 2014, the scenes in Marrakech, while awe-inspiring structure retains Daniel Chicault’s documentary many of its original elements, colour photographs and including multi-coloured a rare set of 800 glass plates tiled floors, intricately carved capture the wild landscape wooden doors and pink plaster of the High Atlas and their walls in the central courtyard. Berber residents. The museum is inextricably Exhibitions have explored linked to the painter Abdelhay everything from palm groves Mellakh, who was born to Moroccan women. Draw in the house in 1947 and back the curtains that whose studio remains intact. conceal the doorways to each Exhibitions have focused on room – like an old-school themes such as decorative art photographer dipping beneath and 16th-century architecture, a hood – and be sure to pick while musical evenings take up a couple of prints and place from October to May. postcards before you leave. 4-5 Derb El Hammam, 46 Rue Souk Ahal Fassi Rue Mouassine 1212 (0)5 2438 5721 1212 (0)5 2438 5721 maisondelaphotographie.ma museedemouassine.com

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Commercial galleries Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Trading places Galerie 127, Gueliz Comptoir des Mines Majorelle Talent incubator Galerie, Gueliz House design Artistic residence It’s easy to miss Nathalie Though Yves Saint Laurent Locatelli’s photography This peach-coloured art gallery was steeped in the exquisite gallery, located on the is the most recent offering from world of Parisian haute second floor of a mixed- Hicham Daoudi, president of couture, he spent much of his purpose building on Avenue Art Holding Morocco, who time in Morocco. “While Paris Mohammed V. Erected in started out in agriculture before is about creation, this is about 1922, the art deco complex trading crops for canvases. In emotion and inspiration,” was originally divided into 2002 he established cmooa (an says Björn Dahlström, the apartments and is now also auction house in Casablanca) Casablanca-born director of home to various medical and in 2009 launched Diptyk the Musée Yves Saint Laurent. practices. “Yes, it’s an unusual (see page 71), Morocco’s first “It was here he discovered mix,” she says with a smile. contemporary-art magazine. colour: the pinks, reds and Locatelli founded Gallery He went on to found Comptoir oranges he was known for.” 127 in 2006 and, to this day, des Mines Galerie in 2016. This hugely popular it’s the only gallery dedicated The gallery is sprawled museum was designed by to photography in Morocco. across an art deco building Paris-based architecture “There still isn’t a great (see page 74). It focuses on Musée Berbère, Majorelle firm Studio KO see( pages demand for photography contemporary Moroccan art, Traditional beauty 72 to 73) and opened in 2017. in Africa and it’s my aim to collaborating with artists – The black interior of the change that,” says Locatelli. who are often invited to stay Tucked away in the lush oasis permanent exhibit is lined with Her approach centres around on-site – from initial concept of the Jardin Majorelle (see page documents and photographs forging relationships with to realisation. The exhibitions 80), the Musée Berbère shines from the designer’s life, as artists at the outset of their change every two months a spotlight on Berber art and well as projections of catwalk careers and sticking with them and run the gamut of culture. Yves Saint Laurent’s models marching like newly as their style develops – she’s paintings and sculptures business partner and great shod ponies showing off been with some for more than to installations. love of 50 years, Pierre Bergé, his creations. a decade. “It’s a real passion.” 62 Rue Yougoslavie founded the museum in 2011, Rue Yves Saint Laurent 2F, 127 Avenue Mohammed V 1212 (0)6 6301 0191 six years before he established 1212 (0)5 2429 8686 1212 (0)5 2443 2667 comptoirdesminesgalerie.com the nearby Musée Yves Saint museeyslmarrakech.com galerie127.com Laurent (see right). The permanent exhibition features more than 600 objects, from the 18th century to the 1960s, that provide a window onto the north African indigenous tribes found between the Rif and the Sahara. Traditional craftsmanship skills are on display in everyday and ceremonial artefacts, while the rituals of the are expressed through festive costumes. A highlight is the mirrored room of jewels: the starry ceiling adds to the sense of bedazzlement as you admire silver necklaces and wrist cuffs studded with amber and coral. Rue Yves Saint Laurent 1212 (0)5 2429 8686 jardinmajorelle.com

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Matisse Art Gallery, Gueliz Mixed exhibits

Matisse Art Gallery opened in 1999 in the Passage Ghandouri, a stone’s throw from Macma (see page 63). Ever since, the two floors behind its black-marble façade have played host to some of the most renowned names on the Moroccan art scene – including Farid Belkahia, Mahi Binebine and Hassan El Glaoui – as well as up-and-coming artists. Passage Ghandouri, 61 Rue Yougoslavie 1212 (0)5 2444 8326

David Bloch Gallery, Gueliz Voice Gallery, Ménara Fair game Spirited collaboration Breeding ground It wasn’t until Vanessa The sleek façade of this For Italian Rocco Orlacchio Branson (sister to Richard) ground-floor Gueliz gallery (pictured), running a gallery is set up the Marrakech Biennale is lined with floor-to-ceiling about creating a community in 2004 that a spotlight, albeit windows that provide a good of talent from disparate a rather patchy one, began view of the contemporary backgrounds. He works with to shine on the Moroccan art within. Inside, white walls local and international artists, art scene. It sparked a are paired with a polished most of whom are young and dialogue between local and concrete floor. The building engaged with what’s going international art communities, was abandoned before David on around the world, be it and promoted cultural venues Bloch, who first came to politically, environmentally across the city. Marrakech on holiday in the or socially. Moroccan artist When the seventh edition, 1990s, bought and refurbished M’Barek Bouhchichi, for due to be held in February it in time for the opening of Solo show example, creates artwork 2018, was cancelled due to his gallery in 2010. — from leftover plastic. a lack of funds, it was a big “We’re a promotion gallery,” Tucked away in the heart of Orlacchio chose Marrakech disappointment. But the arrival says Bloch, “meaning we foster the medina, Riad Yima is the because at the time, in 2011, its of Moroccan native Touria El long-term collaborations with studio, gallery, shop and tea art scene was in flux – and that’s Glaoui’s 1-54 Contemporary room of Hassan Hajjaj. Every Left a artists.” Some 20 international bit, right the kind of shaky ground on African Art Fair that same surface is covered with the names are represented – both a bit which great art is often made. month lessened the blow. With emerging and established – and well-known artist’s work, from In 2019 the gallery moved into a solid reputation in global they’re given free rein when it photographs that capture Arab this giant former jam factory. art centres, 1-54 attracts comes to solo exhibitions. life to furniture made from Rue Salah Eddine Al Ayoubi collectors from all over. recycled African signs. 8 Bis Rue des Vieux Marrakchis 1212 (0)6 5848 2800 marrakechbiennale.org; riadyima.com 1212 (0)5 2445 7595 voicegallery.net 1-54.com/marrakech davidblochgallery.com

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Foundations and cultural centres Le 18, Medina Ambitious aims Contemporary meets traditional Laila Hida (pictured) was born in Casablanca, studied in Paris and worked as a photographer and producer before setting up Le 18 in 2013. Her foundation started out as an experimental space for the odd exhibition as well as talks about art, society and politics. It now offers a consistent annual programme. The setting is a renovated riad in the medina – a far cry from the white-cube galleries of Gueliz. It offers a different perspective on contemporary art. “We want to move forward with our history,” says Hida. Le 18 puts on four exhibitions a year and also has a rolling residency programme. 18 Derb El Ferrane Montresso Art Foundation, 1212 (0)5 2438 9864 Dar Bellarj, Medina Ouidane le18marrakech.com Flight of fancy Artist retreat A pocket of calm in the Getting to this vibrant art medina, Dar Bellarj has a foundation is a bit of a mission: schedule stuffed with wide- though only 20km from the ranging events. Temporary city, it’s well and truly off the exhibitions have taken on beaten track, at the heart of themes such as embroidery, an olive grove. Established scents and the art of stucco. by Jean-Louis Haguenauer in Workshops might hone in 1981, it promotes Moroccan on calligraphy or theatre, and art and culture through the past concerts have presented Jardin Rouge artists residency Sufi music. and the Montresso Art Space. The building too has been The Jardin Rouge through many iterations – was established in 2009 hospital, private residence, and welcomes up to 30 school – and is even said to international artists a year, have once been a sanctuary allowing them to develop and for injured storks (hence the experiment while receiving name bellarj, which translates as support. The gallery space – a “stork” in Arabic). In the early magnificent modern structure – 2000s the complex was bought was founded in 2016 and hosts by Swiss architects Susanna contemporary art exhibitions. Biedermann and Max Alioth, It’s open by appointment on who set up the foundation. Fridays and Saturdays; sign There’s no entrance fee and up for a tour of the entire during Ramadan the institution complex, including the studios. hosts evening concerts in its Douar Ouled Zbir, Route de Fès central courtyard. 1212 (0)5 2980 1592 7-9 Toualat Zaouiat Lahdar montresso.com 1212 (0)5 2444 4555

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Cinemas Media round-up Take a picture Cinéma le Colisée, Gueliz What to read 3 6 Curtain call

This cinema has a lot to live up to: it was built in 1953 according to a design by Georges Peynet, the French architect behind Parisian 1 cinemas such as Max Linder Panorama and Vendôme- Opéra. The entrance features a ribbed ceiling that resembles a swept-back curtain – a nod 2 to the revelatory nature of the screening rooms within. Refurbished in 1995, 4 Cinéma le Colisée offers a 5 varied programme of films often shown in their original language, including English, with French subtitles. It’s also one of the hosts of the Festival International du Film de 7 9 10 Marrakech (see page 138). Boulevard Mohammed 8 Zerktouni 1212 (0)5 2444 8893

daily – but published in and also interviews with Cinéma Leila Alaoui, Media Rabat – focusing on general politicians and artists, as well Camp El Ghoul Fresh pages news, economics and politics. as reports on the Moroccan Different perspectives Casablanca-based 4 Le Matin, social scene. 8 VH magazine, Morocco may have its fair which first hit presses in short for “Version Homme”, A collaboration between share of French and Arabic 1971 and is perhaps the was established as a monthly the Fondation Leila Alaoui papers but many are state- most accessible of the French- lifestyle and culture magazine – established to preserve the owned and, as such, restricted language papers, brings for men in 2002. humanitarian efforts of the when it comes to news together sport, world news, 9 Diptyk is the country’s late French-Moroccan video coverage. Imprisonment and economics, celebrity gossip, premier arts title, dedicated artist and photographer – persecution of independent politics and general-interest to documenting Arabic and and the Institut Français de journalists who question the topics. Another politically African contemporary art. Marrakech, the Cinéma Leila government is commonplace. independent, general-interest Six issues a year cover major Alaoui was inaugurated in Our round-up of the best daily is 5 Aujourd’hui. events in both the Moroccan 2017. The former theatre of the titles to peruse is focused on Weekly magazine 6 Te l and international art world, institute has been transformed French-language publications Quel is marked by its brave with reviews and artist profiles. into a picture house that Movie night produced across the country. coverage of the politics of And finally we have 10 Chergui, showcases French arthouse — Founded by Hassan the day and its investigative an in-house journal published cinema, documentary films The Musée Yves Saint Alaoui in 2015, 1 Maroc reporting, plus its progressive twice a year by cultural and international flicks. Laurent’s (see page 64) Ciné- Diplomatique is a monthly take on international relations, foundation Le 18 (see page In line with Alaoui’s work Club screens the fashion newspaper filled with reports, economics and culture. 69). An extension of the – which explores themes such designer’s favourite films at interviews and surveys on Founded in 1995, physical space, it takes on as the construction of identity 19.00 every Thursday. Expect various social, political and 7 Femmes du Maroc is a a different theme each time and migration – the cinema 20th-century classics by cultural issues. 2 L’Économiste, monthly magazine published and features writing from aims to foster cultural diversity the likes of Jean Cocteau the independent sister in Casablanca and directed contributors around the through imagery and film. and Orson Welles. publication of Arabic daily by Moroccan journalist Aïsha world in various languages. Route de la Targa Jbel Guéliz museeyslmarrakech.com Assabah, provides a regular Zaïmi Sakhri, a big supporter 1212 (0)5 2444 6930 dose of economic and financial of women’s rights. It features if-maroc.org news. 3 L’Opinion is another fashion and beauty pages

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