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Ice Age. Your home in Torres del Paine National Park... Hostería Lago Grey. welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 2 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 3

Editorial

Your home in Torres del Paine National Park... Some things never change. Go back ten or twenty years in your life. Travel with your mind and you Hotel Lago Grey. will notice that even though you have probably changed in time, there (This is the actual view from the deck) are many things you keep doing time and time again just because you like it. I don’t know what it is in your case, but in my case, photography is one of them. I am lucky to live near a lot of wonders and one thing that (56.61) 712100 calls to my attention is that although I go time after time to the same places, they look and feel different. This land has been a source of delight to me for years. Every sunrise and sunset is different, the wind blows in WP a different direction and the grass dances different tunes welcomepatagonia of wind.

There is one big difference between you and me... that is you have traveled thousand of miles to get here. I sincerely hope you have a perfect journey across a land of aborigins, sailors and discoverers. A land untouched by men, but by God’s. 30 fine rooms - Bar, Lounge & Restaurant Book(56.61) Today!712100 Excursions & Navigation to the Glaciers www.turismolagogrey.com You are officially Welcome to Patagonia.

Issue Number 1 Cover image: Lago Grey, Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008 Don’t miss it when youwww.turismolagogrey.com are up there in Torres del Paine... Bateries - Memory cards - Music and video Players - Cameras - Bags - Cd’s - Dvd’s - Video tapes We were born and raised in Patagonia. Our goal is to let you know insteresting stuff about Patagonia and go with you as you travel and discover. We are totally neutral on political issues and we are not related to any Index regional authority. Director: Punta Arenas Puerto Natales Torres del Paine Marcelo Kunstmann Gardella An Encounter with the Past 7 Puerto Natales Map 26 Welcome to Ice Age 4 Publisher: “Braun Menendez Palace”, Join us in a wonderful trip across Welcome Patagonia® Regional Museum in Punta Arenas. Puerto Natales. 26 Lago Grey to the Glacier Wall Graphic Design, Maps & Illustrations: The door to Torres del Paine Manuel Aguila for Agencia K Punta Arenas Map 22 National Park and Camping in the Park 15 Contact & Sales: Perito Moreno Glacier. [email protected] Punta Arenas 22 Torres del Paine Map 16 Capital of the Magallanes Region. What to do? 27 Thanks to: María Gómez from the Regional Museum, 254 kms to Puerto Natales. Torres del Paine Trekking Map 18 CERE from Universidad de Magallanes. Milodon’s Cave. 28 What to do? 23 Between myth and reality. First Class Excursion 19 The opinions within Welcome Patagonia, written or implied, are not necessarily those of the advertisers. The Magellanic Penguin. 24 A funny guy in a tux that Welcome Patagonia® Magazine Postal: Jorge Montt 735 Punta Arenas, Chile goes away but is more loyal Telephone: +56 61 613940 than any other one. Copyright 2008 Marcelo Kunstmann. Welcome Patagonia is a registered trademark. We accept credit cards ©2008. All rights reserved. Zona Franca Mall, Store 137 in Punta Arenas The use of the name of the brand or any content (Beside the mechanical stairs) of this paper is forbidden by law. This issue Telephone (56.61) 710105 printed in La Prensa Austral, Punta Arenas, Chile. www.welcomepatagonia.com/magazine welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 4 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 5

Welcome to the Ice Age! About the Glacier Grey Glacier is 27 meters long and 4 Join us on a wonderful trip across Lago Grey to the Glacier Wall. kilometers wide. Its front has an average Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann height of 25 meters. It is part of the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur which is the third biggest water reserve of the planet after Antarctica and Greenland. The Campo de Hielo Sur or South Ice Field in English, is 350 Amazing! Beautiful! kilometers long with a minimum width of 8 kilometers and a maximum of 65 meters. September 19th. Torres del Paine National Park. A total of 13.500 square kilometers that We woke up early, had a delicious breakfast at the Hotel and got gathers 48 big glaciers and more than 100 ready to catch the bus from the hotel to the beginning of our small ones. 18% of the Ice is in Argentina adventure. This is the first part, when we cross the bridge over Rio Grey and walk and the rest in Chile. among the forest to get to the shores of Lago Grey. This is a perfect moment to make new friends and share impressions on the surroundings. A zodiac boat is Grey Glacier is a calving type glacier. It is now ready to take us from the dock to M/N Grey II where the captain is waiting in its reverse period. Today it is composed for us to begin the navigation. A brief talk on safety and we are on! by 2 fronts showing 3 rocky risings. The biggest one is called Nunatak which began About the Lake appearing 100 years ago. Lago Grey is 17 kilometers long and 5 kilometers wide, with a maximum depth of 550 meters near the glacier. The temperature varies between 2 and 5 degrees The Retraction Celcius. Its “milky” color is produced by the sediment material in suspension as The retract ratio of the glacier is of 4 meters a consequence of the erosion produced by the glacier over the rocky ground. per year in the last century, but in the last 12 The lake comes from the glacier. It is poor in nutrients and very rich in sediments years the glacier has lost almost 1kilometre so the sunshine does not penetrate. This and the low tempretaure of the water in the oriental side and almost 2 in the make life imposible. occidental side. It is said that the accelerated retreatment of the glacier is produced by The ices floating near the shore of the lake come from the front of the glacier. The the global warming. The glaciers coming travel from the front of the wall towards the beach takes between 3 and 7 days. from the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur are near their fusion point which means It takes 3 to 12 months to completely melt. that any increase in temperature will affect the glaciers directly. The deep blue color that can be observed is an effect produced by the decomposition and refraction of light. Light itself decomposes in a continuous color spectrum of red, green and blue. Water moleculs absorb red waves 6 time more than the others producing a strong blue. The intensity of the color varies depending the state of the ice. If it is more compacted and free of oxygen bubbles the blue will be more intense.

Back on the Tour Already aboard and thirsty of adventure, we went outside to enjoy the live view from the deck. The Paine Grande Mountain is getting closer. We are lucky today, the water is so calm that it looks like a mirror and there is a lot of ice floating near us. We can see the glacier and its walls at the end of our sight as they highlight the whole scene. Mr. Arturo, the captain, kindly offered me a very informative talk on the surroundings. After an hour of sailing we reached the front of the glacier. The deep blue color is unbelievable. The captain slowed down the engine so we could appreciate the magic of it all. The crew offered us a Pisco Sour or a Whisky chilled with ice of the very glacier! Now going back to the Hotel the captain was going among the ices so we could appreciate the different shades of blue which are really impressive. I realized that the deepest blue is when you are watching at 90º degrees from the sun location. When we were with the sun in our back ther was no color, but when in at one side it was really blue. We were lucky. The sky was completely clear and a lot of ices were floating all around. I hope you have the same fortune! Good luck and enjoy your trip on Lago Grey.

Departures Everyday Price: One Way CLP 32.000, Round Trip CLP 40.000 8 AM: Round trip. Back at 11AM. Check in at Hotel Lago Grey front desk at 7AM. 12 PM: One way to Regufio Grey. Only transportation. Check in at 11AM. 1.30 PM: Return trip from Refugio Grey to Hotel Lago Grey (this trip CLP 35.000) 3.30 PM: Round trip. Back at 6.30PM. Check in at Hotel front desk at 2PM. Check for avalaibility calling +56.61 410220 or 410172 For booking email to: [email protected] welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 6 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 7 Patagonia Aborigins Selknam were not real, and their goal was to unmask them. At the time they realized An Encounter with the Past. that these “spirits” were actually human beings, they were then told a story of the creation of the World about the Sun and Moon. There was also, a story told “Braun Menendez Palace”, Regional Museum in Punta Arenas. (actually part of the same) that at one time women used these spirits to control Text & Images by Marcelo Kunstmann men: they would disguise themselves as spirits and threaten the men while they been preserved in its original did not know that these were not spirits at all. Once they found out, it was done state, which allows visitors to vice-versa - women did not know that the spirits weren’t real, while males found appreciate the finest European out at the initiation age. There were related ceremonies where males showed craftsmanship available at the their “strength” in front of women by fighting spirits in some theatrical fights. end of the 19th century. Since then, the Government has Heritage worked to turn the Palace into Photographs of Selknam people taken by a more open source of culture, missionaries are available in the Puerto presenting art and photographic Williams museum. There are also a few books exhibitions and classical music on the subject, including tales, collected performances. The Museum also has a room which tells about by the missions, and a dictionary of the the ranching and maritime Selknam language. Due to early contact by history of the region. Tours are missionaries, it was possible to gather much conducted in Spanish. more information about the Selknam people than about other peoples of the region. For some visitors, the The Selknams, also known as the Onas, lived on the Tierra del Fuego Island. They knowledge that these families were nomads and survived hunting. Even though the weather was really hard and According to the Argentinian census of 2001, exterminated native Indians to cold they dressed sparingly. The Selknam spoke a Chon language. The Selknam there were 391 Ona aborigins living in Tierra a large extent and suppressed avoided contact with Western colonizers. del Fuego Island and 114 in other parts of A Masterwork of Design from Belgium, Arabian tables fortunes in Magellanes. They labour movements in the region Argentina. Braun Menéndez Palace is an inset with abalone, stained-glass married at the age of 24 and on their quest for wealth may Initiation ceremonies obligated attraction to visit in cupolas, English and French 19 respectively and lived here temper the appreciation for The Hain was probably one of the most fascinating parts of their culture. Young References Punta Arenas. The history of furniture, hand-carved desks, from 1906 until 1920. With the the grandeur of these palaces. males were called to a dark hut to be attacked by “spirits” - actually people Gusinde, Martin: Nordwind—Südwind. Mythen this palace-museum began in and more. Beautiful sculptures opening of the Panamá Canal Anyways, the magnificence of this masterpiece is a must if you disguised as such. Children were taught to fear these spirits and were threatened und Märchen der Feuerlandindianer. E. Röth, 1903 when Mauricio Braun made from marble from Carrara, the traffic of ships through the are visiting Patagonia. by them in case they misbehaved. These young men did not know these spirits Kassel, 1966. requested its construction to Italy, made by the famous Strait of Magellan decreased, the french architect Antoine sculptor Pietro Barzanti. being that enough reason for Beaulier. The construction itself them to move to Buenos Aires, Office Hours took 3 years and the wood and Argentina. The family owned Monday to Saturday: 10:30AM to 5PM other materials used to build several “estancias” or farms in Sunday & holidays: 10:30AM to 2PM Admission Price: Adults: CLP 1.000 the palace were brought from what before the Treat of 1881 Europe. By 1900, all materials, were in chilean territory, now furniture and sculptures Argentinian territory. had already been bought and A very comfortable Hotel in Puerto Natales... stored in a warehouse in Punta Mauricio and Josefina raised ten Arenas. children, seven sons and three daugthers. They loved doing French architects planned activities in the music room. the neoclassical exteriors, Children had to learn theatrical and craftsmen were brought plays and dress accordingly to from Europe to sculpt marble represent plays for family and fireplaces and hand-paint walls The solid construction created friends with the piano in the to resemble marble and leather. its own world inside the palace background. The music room The impressive ceilings were specially in days of strong gusts and a living room were together made with plaster, molded and of wind, rain and cold. and the separation between hand-painted with different them is like a theater scenario motives depending on the The Family Life perfect for those activities. Lady Florence Dixie room. The interior fixtures and The Palace was the former HOTEL furniture were also imported residence of Mauricio Braun and Mauricio Braun died in 1953 from Europe, including gold and Josefina Menéndez, a marriage and Josefina in 1955. The house crystal chandeliers, tapestries that united the two largest always had active personnel and was visited periodically by Attended by owners we assure the family on holidays, summer you a pleasant stay. season and on business until 1982. They used to use the entrance located at the back Roomy dependences, so most people did not notice near to all main services, activity in the Palace. private parking, private bathroom with tub, Today hair dryer, Cable TV, The Palace was declared a safety box, baggage storage, National Monument in 1974 internet available, and the Braun family donated laundry service, the building and the original breakfast included. furniture to the chilean State in 1982. thus becoming Manuel Bulnes 655, Puerto Natales - Chile - For booking Call: (56.61) 411158 www.hotelflorencedixie.cl the Regional Museum of ad Music Room where children used to Magallanes. This home has perform theatrical plays. welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 8 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 9 KEOKEN Buses Itinerary & Travel Times HOSTAL A Matter of Taste. Punta Arenas | Puerto Natales Chile | Argentina Buses Patagonia Gastronomy: Enjoy! Bon appètit! Guten Appetit! ]vbaytb いただきます Buon appetito!

from Punta Arenas from Puerto Natales Punta Arenas to Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos to Punta Arenas The day was great, a lot of adventure. In Puerto Natales. Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008 07:00 07:00 Buses Ghisoni Mon - Wed Buses Ghisoni Tue - Thu You probably saw the Cuernos del Paine, La Parrilla de Don Jorge. If you are looking 613420 Thru - Fri - Sat Bus Terminal Fri - Sat - Sun guanacos, bandurrias, lakes and other 07:15 07:15 out for a good barbacue this may be the L. Navarro 975 K11:00EOKENRio Gallegos 12:00 HOSTAL exciting attractions. You took a shower, right place for you. A typical chilean place 07:30 07:30 Buses Pacheco Buses Pacheco Tue, Fri, Sun. Mon, Wed, Sat. freshened up, and now... What? How does where you can see the grill and the cook as 08:00 08:00 242174 Bus Terminal 11:30 11:00 a Roasted Lamb Barbacue sound with he prepares your dish. Lamb and traditional 08:30 08:30 Colón 900 Rio Gallegos some fresh potatoes cooked with parsley, a meat specialty. Excellent quality and taste. 09:00 09:00 Punta Arenas to Ushuaia Ushuaia to Punta Arenas lettuce salad and great white wine? Satisfy Bories 430, Telephone 410999. 09:15 09:15 Buses Pacheco Bed and Breakfast your curiosity. Bon Appetitte! Última Esperanza. A traditional one in Tue, Thu, Sun. Buses Pacheco Mon, Wed, Fri 10:00 10:00 242174 Señoret 267, Puerto Natales, Chile 09:00 San Martín 1267 07:00 Phone 56.61 413670 [email protected] Puerto Natales. “Lomo a lo pobre” (poor’s 13:00 13:00 Colón 900 In Punta Arenas. loin which is not really poorly), “Caldillos” Tecni Austral 13:30 13:30 Tue, Thu, Sat Tecni Austral Mon. Wed, Fri Sotito’s is a traditional (seafood soups) and chilean salads 613420 08:30 Roca 157 05:30 14:00 14:00 L. Navarro 975 restaurant whose name are typical here. Let you be 14:30 14:30 comes to our mind in the the judge. Bories 430, 15:00 15:00 Puerto Natales to Ushuaia Ushuaia to Puerto Natales first place. José Soto, Telephone 410999. Buses Pacheco the owner, has been Are you looking 16:30 16:30 Tue, Thu, Sun. Buses Pacheco Mon, Wed, Fri 414513 preparing typical for the yummy 17:00 17:00 09:00 San Martín 1267 08:00 Baquedano 500 regional dishes stuff? Well, this 18:00 18:00 +56.61 415069 including king one’s for you. 18:30 18:30 Puerto Natales to El Calafate El Calafate to Puerto Natales crab, seafood and Cootra Mocho’s. Great 19:00 19:00 Daily Cootra Daily meat for many 412785 sandwiches, pizzas 07:30 Bus Terminal 08:30 19:30 19:30 Baquedano 456 years. The place has and Hot Dogs. Try 20:00 20:00 Zaajh been redesigned and Tue, Thu & Sat. Zaajh Mon, Fri & Sun. the Italian Dog. 412260 offers room for both 08:00 Bus Terminal 08:00 Prices between 2 and Buses Fernández See location in city maps. Arturo Prat 236 smokers and non smokers. C 4 dollars. Ladrilleros Buses Pacheco Punta Arenas page 22. lean - Comfortable - Family Owned O’higgins 1134, Telephone 328, Telephone 415854. Bus Sur Puerto Natales page 26. El Calafate to Rio Gallegos Rio Gallegos to El Calafate 243565. Sportsman Sportsman Daily Daily Balmaceda 254 - Puerto Natales Los Navegantes Restaurant is located 492680 442595 12:30 20:00 Top Experience Torres del Paine National Park Bus Terminal Rancho Grande www.hostalalamopatagonico.com inside the hotel with the same name. Taqsa Daily Taqsa Daily I personally enjoy the fresh smoked salmon Place: Afrigonia. Trans Via Paine - Bulnes 518 - Puma Tours 413672 491843 03:00 423130 12:00 as an appetizer and the Sunday specialty: Dish: Salmon in Coconut Sauce Bus Terminal 12:00 & 14:30 Rancho Grande 14:00 & 20:30 The Cazuela, a typical chilean dish. and Tsavo Potatoes. Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales Interlagos Interlagos Dessert: Kilimanjaro. Daily Daily Great sandwiches at the bar also. Trip 1 Trip 2 Trip 1 Trip 2 491273 442080 04.00 13:30 OUTDOORS IN PATAGONIA José Menéndez 647, Telephone 617700. Bus Terminal Terminal The salmon was perfectly fresh and the Puerto Natales 07:00 14:30 Administration 13:00 18:00 La Marmita. This cozy restaurant is family coconut sauce was as soft as a kiss. I could Laguna Amarga 09:45 16:30 Pudeto 13:30 19:00 even smell the freshness of the potatoes El Calafate to Chaltén Chaltén to El Calafate owned and features a very particular as if I were in a backyard sowing them. The Pudeto 10:45 17:30 Laguna Amarga 14:30 19:45 Chaltén Travel Daily Chaltén Travel Daily ambience. The colors, furniture and mix of flavours was perfectly matched. Administration 11:45 18:00 Puerto Natales 17:00 22:00 491833 08:00, 13:30 Hostel Rancho 07:30 decoration are captiving. And the food... Bus Terminal & 18:30 Grande 13.00 & 18:00 The Kilimanjaro is a warm cake with a soft very good. I recommend the Pulmai, a kind chocolate consistence. It goes with white Buses Gomez - Arturo Prat 234 - 411971 CalTur Daily Daily CalTur of Curanto, a typical dish of the Island of chocolate and strawberry sauce. It melts Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales 491842 07:30 08:00 Av. San Martín 520 Chiloé that includes smoked meat, clamps in your mouth with a perfect delicacy. Bus Terminal 13:00 & 18:30 13:00 & 18:30 Trip 1 Trip 2 Trip 1 Trip 2 and “chapaleles” a delicious tradicional Taqsa Taqsa Address:FO EberhardOD - K 343,IN PuertoG CR Natales.AB - LAMB - T YPICAL Puerto Natales 07:30 14:00 Administration 13:00 18:15 Daily Daily PISCO SOUR - SEA CHILEAN - FINE C 491843 423130 specialty made from flour that tastes great Telephone: +56.61 412232 HILEAN WIN 17:30 07:30 ES Laguna Amarga 09:45 16:30 Pudeto 13:45 19:00 Bus Terminal Rancho Grande with “pebre”. Plaza Sampaio 678, Comments? [email protected] Pudeto 10:45 17:30 Laguna Amarga 15:00 19:45 Telephone 222056. Administration 11:45 18:00 Puerto Natales 17:00 22:00 For more details about terms and conditions, please contact the bus companies directly. Buses JB - Arturo Prat 258 - 410242 Bories 655, Punta Arenas www.mountainhouse.cl Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales Trip 1 Trip 2 Trip 1 Trip 2 Puerto Natales 07:30 14:00 Administration 13:00 18:30 Laguna Amarga 09:45 16:30 Pudeto 13:30 19:00 Downtown Hostel Pudeto 10:45 17:30 Laguna Amarga 14:30 17:30 A typical warm family Lodge House in Magallages - Comfort & Cheap Prices Administration 11:45 18:00 Puerto Natales 17:00 19:30

Travel Times Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park) El Calafate 5 hrs. TDP Laguna Amarga 2 hrs. 30 min Punta Arenas 3 hrs. TDP Pudeto 3 hrs. 15 min PI SCO SOUR - S Ushuaia 15 hrs. TDP Administration 3 hrs. 45 min EA FOOD - KING CRAB - LAMB - T YPICAL CHILEAN - FINE CHILEAN WINES Approximate Travel times from Puerto Natales (allow time for border crossing and tour connections within the Park) Only Just 150 meters from Bus Station! Puerto Natales 3 hrs. Rio Gallegos 6 hrs. Telephones: (56+61) 222219 (56+61) 221009 Mobile: (56) 09 9 122 9555 (56) 09 7 8977807 The most traditional Restaurant in Punta Arenas. Rio Grande 8 hrs. Ushuaia 13 hrs. Armando Sanhueza 555, Punta Arenas, Chile. www.downtownhostel.cl adJosé Menéndez 647, Punta Arenas, Chile - For Booking Call +56-61 617700 www.hotellosnavegantes.com welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 10 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 11

The Pleasure of BIENVENIDOBIENVENIDO A A SU SU REFUGIO REFUGIO EN EN LA LA PATAGONIA PATAGONIA ChocolateHomemade BIENVENIDO A SU REFUGIO EN LA PATAGONIA Romantic lore commonly identifies chocolate to contain unsaturated N-acylethanolamines as an aphrodisiac. The reputed aphrodisiac which might activate cannabinoid receptors or qualities of chocolate are most often increase endocannabinoid levels resulting in associated with the simple sensual pleasure heightened sensitivity and euphoria. Although of its consumption. Additionally, chocolate’s there is no firm proof that chocolate is indeed sweet and fatty nature may stimulate the an aphrodisiac, a gift of chocolate is a familiar hypothalamus, inducing pleasureable sensations courtship ritual. You are invited to enjoy the as well as affecting the levels of serotonin. flavour of home made chocolates. While serotonin has a pleasurable effect, in high concentrations it can be converted to Our recommendation: melatonin which in large amounts reduces Norweisser Chocolates. 666 Carrera Street, sexual drive. Finally, chocolate has been shown Telephone 223900, Punta Arenas.

PatagoniaHandicraft Souvenirs... a tangible way to prove you Photographs, postcards and posters and Pisco sour have been somewhere and to take home books are always a perfect one to take and the memories of your trip. The traditional frame at home. magellanic souvenir is the little penguin that Have you heard about it? Even though can be found almost everywhere. Maps, figures, clothing, wines, beer, copper, diplomas and many other articles made by the Pisco Sour is produced in high demand Lamb wool products are very interesting hand of craftsmen of the end of the world. and bottled by beverage companies and articles and they can be found in a variety of sold in supermarkets, there is nothing applications: jackets, hats, rest shoes, gloves, Where in Punta Arenas... like a fresh Pisco Sour prepared specially sweaters, carpets and so on. • Chile Típico, Ignacio Carrera Pinto 1015 • RAMA, Waldo Seguel 660 Reservas:Reservas: Tel Tel (56-61) (56-61) 715 715 001 001 | [email protected] | [email protected] for you. It´s perfect with a salted snack. Reservas: Tel (56-61) 715 001 | [email protected] Beautiful and distinguished jewlery is made www.hotelesaustralis.comwww.hotelesaustralis.com Here goes how to... from Lapislazuli, a blue color world known Where in Puerto Natales... www.hotelesaustralis.com stone. • Etherh Aike Handicraft town • Ñandú Artesanías, Eberhard 301 Pisco Sour Recipe For 6 people. 1 bottle of 35 degrees Pisco. Need assistance?... we know all about Patagonia. 1 tea cup of natural lemon juice. More than 15 Years providing Services & Assistance to Travelers from around the world. 1 tea cup of Gum Syrup. 7 drops of Angostura bitter. Hotel Lago Grey Glaciers Attractions National Parks 1 egg white. Mix in a blender with ice and enjoy!

This recipe courtesy of Santino Bar Lounge. (see ad in page 22)

EXCELENT HOTEL IN TORRES DEL PAINE VISIT AMAZING GLACIERS IN CHILE INTERACT WITH LOCAL FAUNA. FAMOUS TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK Almonds - Coconut - Mint - Hazelnut - Raisins - Orange - Milk - Strawberry - Peanut - White - Fig - Truffle - Pistachio - Banana - Mazapan - Nougat - Almonds NATIONAL PARK. & ARGENTINA. & OTHERS. Hotel Martín Gusinde Estancia el Palenque Restaurants Transportation

WE KNOW ALL HOTELS IN PATAGONIA. VISIT A TYPICAL MAGELLANIC FARM AND KING CRAB, SEA FOOD, LAMB AND WINES. WE OFFER OUR OWN FLEET OF VEHICLES. ENJOY ROASTED LAMB. WE SUGGEST...

For more information call EUROPE? THE CARIBEAN? EASTERN ISLAND? INSIDE CHILE? (56.61) 712100 FLIGHT TICKETS TO ANYWHERE. B Homemae ocoate

Carrera 663, Punta Arenas, Chile - Telephone +56.61 223900 See location on page 22 Address: Lautaro Navarro 1077, Punta Arenas - email: [email protected] www.turismolagogrey.com welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 12 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine

WINE Cabernet Sauvignon

Guide begin to decompose and the wine mellows and Chile is a wine country thanks improves with age. to a gentle climate, a fecund soil and a high quality strain. What are Tannins? Tannins are astringent, Aconcacgua valley produces a closed, bitter plant polyphenols that either bind and precipitate or shrink proteins. The astringency tight structure that needs some time from the tannins is what causes the dry and in the bottle to develop. Maipo puckery feeling in the mouth following the consumption of red wine or an unripened Valley, a pervasive black currant fruit. Tannins in wine can come from many fruit and an earthy, dusty note. sources and the tactile properties differ Colchagua, rich fruit flavors depending on the source. Tannins in grape skins and seeds tend to be more noticeable that can be perceived as sweet in red wines, which are fermented while in due to the ripeness of the fruit... contact with the skins and seeds to extract the colour from the skins. Scent & Flavour: Cabernet Sauvignon smells like black pepper, berries, Modern winemakers take great care to chocolate, tobacco and cinnamon. minimize undesirable tannins from The body and the tannins are seeds by crushing grapes gently when really felt in the mouth and its extracting their juice, to avoid acidity is higher if compared to crushing the seeds. Merlot or Carmenere. Tannins in wine have been Gastronomy: If you have described, particularly by novice a Cabernet Sauvignon of drinkers, as having the effect of good body and woody to the making wine difficult to drink mouthfeel, choose red meat compared to a wine with a lower and do not hesitate to season it level of tannins. Tannins can be but be careful not to overdo it. described as leaving a dry and torresdelpaine Game meat is very good for it: puckered feeling with a “furriness” deer, quail and pheasant. in the mouth that can be compared National Park to a stewed tea, which is also very Strength is very important tannic. This effect is particularly and a fundamental. A flavour profound when drinking tannic should never nullify one wines without the benefit of food. another. Keeping that in mind will help a lot to enjoy the most Recommendations: of it. Cabernet Sauvignon is a Tierra del Fuego Gran Reserva. The King of the classic strains, an essential member of very robust strain and needs Cousiño Macul, Antiguas Reservas the Burdeos club. The most important strain in Chile and gastronomy to put up to its Casa Silva, Doña Dominga, Reserva carachter. responsible of the prestige gained internationally. Where to buy: Agebility: The capacity of Supermarkets. agebility of the great reds is Líder, must take a cab. one of its favorable points. As Cofrima & Abu-Gosch, tannic wines age, the tannins check location on page 22. References: www.wikipedia.com, www.planetavino.com, www.vinoschilenos.cl, www.elmundodelvino.com

Cree que su negocio debería estar aquí? Conversemos. 613940. email: [email protected] welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 14 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 15 Fauna in Camping in the Park. Your home outdoors. Cheap and easy to clean. patagonia Camping in Torres del Paine National for groups. Hot showers, flush toilets, a great view to the Campo de Hielo Park is a great experience. There are sinks and waste baskets, fireplace with Sur. No services. 3 hours down Camp several places to stay and we assure grill, tables and benches. Camping Guardas is a place to camp but no Cóndor (Vultur gryphus) you will enjoy it wherever you decide to Laguna Azul is on the shore of Laguna services but has great views. 1 hour stay. It is important to know in advance Azul and offers 20 sites with a capacity more is Refugio Grey, a great place The Andean condor is the largest bird of prey. They roost and nest in the that camping inside Torres del Paine for up to 6 people, electricity, toilets to stay very close to the Glacier Grey. mountains. Their normal food is carrion, dead, dying or sometimes newborn animals. Its head is bare of feathers. Both parents incubate and care for National Park is allowed at designated with drinkable water, hot shower, Camping sites, toilets, hot shower and the young. A condor reaches sexual maturity only after six years of age. Its places only for preservation and safety table, fireplace, waste basket and a Refugio with food services and a wingspan exceed 12 feet (4 meters) and weigh up to 25 lbs. (11 kg) reasons. wood. Boats and stoves rental. store for campers. Excursions to walk on the ice of the glacier start here. Camping grounds generally offer good Camping along the circuit. Next day, Refugio Lago Pehoé, located value and normally have flush toilets, If you go trekking up to the big cicuit in vortex of the W offers 70 tent sites, hot showers and a common shelter or the W you have got about 10 pit- and 3 group sites, dining-room tents for rainy weather. Charges are either stops to rest everyday. The circuit is and kitchen tents. Also, flush toilets, Puma per person or per site (from CLP3.500) normally done counterclockwise. See hot showers and sinks for laundry. depending on the camping ground in a full map on page 18. When going to Valle del Francés, Pumas (Felis concolor patagonica) infraestructure and services. Camping Italiano and Británico there live solitarily in the mountainous Here we list all places to stay are two options to stay. Just camping Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) areas and feed mainly on rodents In the flat area of the Park, camping independently of the services they no services. Now going back to Las 110 to 130 cms tall. It lays a single chalky white egg and occasionally on birds and grounds are located in three subareas: offer. Camping Las Torres is the Torres to finish the circuit, Albergue guanacos. They have also been on a mud mound, between May and August; both Lago Pehoé, Río Serrano and Laguna beginning of the big circuit. Offers Los Cuernos has a place to camp, a (Lama guanicoe) parents brood the young for a period of up to 6 reported to prey on livestock. Guanaco Pumas avoid humans and Azul. Camping Lago Pehoé (Lat. 51° camping sites, wood and toilet rooms Refugio and a post. years when they reach sexual maturity. Their life 6’43”S Long. 51° 6’43”S) offers 49 with hot shower. After the first day Stands between 107 and 122 cms. and lives in herds expectancy of 40 years is one of the longest in birds. incidents of them killing people composed of females, their young and a dominant are extremely rare. Puma can be sites, with flush toilet, table with walking the next step is Serón with Conaf should offer deeper information male. When they feel threatened, guanacos alert as long as nine feet (2.8 meters) a windstopper, fireplace, wood, camping sites and basic services. he at the entrance of the park. the herd to flee with a high-pitched bleating call. and weigh 170 lbs (80 kg). hot showers, store, electricity 24 next day, Dickson Refugio will be your They can run with a speed of 56 km per hour, often hours, water pipes, laundry sinks home with a great view of the lake For further information contact: over steep and rocky terrain. Excellent swimmers. and telephone. Also a “quincho”, a and the glacier in the background. www.campingpehoe.com restaurant with view to the Cuernos. The fourth day you will get to Camp www.verticepatagonia.cl Camping Río Serrano offers 30 sites Los Perros.The next day, you will be www.conaf.cl for up to 6 people and bigger sites at Camp El Paso where you can enjoy

Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulus) Chile’s national symbol. It is classified as an endangered species. The male body can Ñandú (Rhea pennata) reach a length of 6 feet (2 meters), with a short tail. It can weigh up to 250 lbs (120 kg), 3 feet tall with large wings being though the females are generally smaller. able to run particularly well. It can reach speeds of 60 km/hour. The sharp claws on the toes are effective weapons. Quite sociable out of the breeding season. It lives in groups of from 5 to 30 birds.

Grey Fox (Lycalopex griseus) The South American Gray Fox is a small canid, weighing 2.5–4 kg (5–9 pounds), and measuring 43–70 cm. Its diet consists mainly of rodents, birds, and rabbits. It breeds in late austral fall, around March. After a gestation period of 2 months, 2-4 kits are born in a den.

Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) 61 to 76 cms tall and between 2.7 kg and 6.5 kg of weight. They feed in the water, preying on cuttlefish, sardines, squid, krill, and other crustaceans. They mate with the same partner year after year. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone. welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 16 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 17 GLACIAR DICKSON

LAGO DICKSON torresdelpaine 1 Hotel Lago Grey 2 Camping Rio Serrano National Park LAGO PAINE 3 Hostería las Torres 4 Laguna Amarga Port 13 5 Laguna Verde 6 Administration GLACIAR PINGO 15 7 Camping Pehoe Condor Lookout Point GLACIAR GREY 8 9 Salto Chico 10 Lago Sarmiento Port LAGUNA AZUL 11 Salto Grande 12 Serrano Town LAGO PINGO 13 Camping Serón 14 3 14 Lago Pingo Trekking 15 Glacier Grey Ice Trekking 4 16 Hotel Rio Serrano 17 Ferrier Lookout Point GLACIAR ZAPATA LAGO GREY 11 LAGO NORDENSKJÖLDPaine 10

1 17 LAGO PEHOE 7 8 9 LAGO SARMIENTO

MapLAGUNA VERDE 5 GLACIAR TYNDALL

GLACIAR GEIKIE

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Cree que su negocio debería estar aquí?

LAGO DEL TORO Conversemos. 613940. email: [email protected] welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 18 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 19 Torres del Paine Trekking Map First Class Excursion by New transportation Service to Torres del Paine. Daily. Comfortable.

LAGO DICKSON a panoramic view toward the lake. We had top five list. First, we saw it from the 3 LAGO PAINE the pleasure of admiring an inspiring view road but had the chance to go very close. to Glacier Grey, the Paine Grande Mountain There is a marked safe way to go around 2 Range and Lago del Toro from the Lago Grey and take good photographs. I noted how 4 Lookout point. Amazing! the Mountain Range looks different as we 5 change the angle (we moved from west to Megan: A few miles before getting inside east during the tour). Lago Nordenskjold 11 the park there is an area called Serrano and its Lookout point is another great spot because of the river that runs through for frames. Near Laguna Amarga area we GLACIAR GREY 10 it. There are hotels, places to fish near a enjoyed visiting Cascada Paine waterfall and bridge, horseback rides and a perfect view watched a lot of Guanacos and Bandurrias LAGUNA AZUL to the Cuernos del Paine and Grey Glacier. in the surroundings. 9 After passing the entrance to the Park we Jeff: Puerto Natales, Chile. 07:30 AM and about 30 meters tall, 80 meters wide and headed to the left to Lago Grey area. The Megan: It was a great day! We could not 6 the transport was at our hotel waiting for 200 meters deep. It is obviously interesting day was fine so we walked by the shore of see the Cuernos all the time because of the Megan and me to begin our aventure to in many areas but the abundance of animal the lake toward a lookout point where we weather, but wind helped to clear the sky Torres del Paine National Park. life, specially birds, the local flora and the appreciated a wide panoramic picture. for us at the right time. I hardly believe that surroundings called my attention. this could be so good on a traditional big 1 Megan: The day seemed to be very clear. 1 Hostería las Torres After that we moved to Lago Pehoé area. bus. The price was right. (about USD70) 8 We were told that the weather here is Jeff: We were 8 people in a van with a We were offered to have a Snack (mineral The vehicles were clean, comfortable and 2 Camping Serón unpredictable so we better didn´t talk about capacity for 12, so there was enough room. LAGO GREY water, juice, a brownie, a chocolate and a the guide and driver were very kind. Totally 3 Refugio Dickson it anymore and hoped it to be allright for The air was fresh all the time, no strange cereal bar) which was good, but Jeff and I satisfied. A perfect way to discover Torres 4 Camp Los Perros us. Well, I saw beautiful colours all around odors and the temperature was fine, no wanted to have lunch with that magnificient del Paine National Park in one day. 5 Camp El Paso on our way along the shore of Última dust, just perfect, I really enjoyed the trip. view to the mountian range. So we made a Esperanza Sound to Cueva del Milodón, The guide told us this is the new road to stop at Camping Pehoé to have lunch at the 6 Refugio Grey More Information & where to book: 7 just 24 kilometers to the north. This Natural Torres del Paine National Park. Now it Resturant. Kipaventour Patagonie 7 Refugio Paine Grande Monument is formed by three caverns and takes less time to get there. A soft trip and Telephone: +56 61 413615 LAGO NORDENSKJÖLD e-mail: [email protected] 8 Camp Italiano a big rock named Silla del Diablo which full of attractions like Laguna Sofía, Lago Jeff: After lunch we went on to Salto www.kipaventourpatagonie.com 9 Valle del Fancés means Devil’s Chair. The biggest cavern is Porteño and Lago Toro where we enjoyed Grande waterfall which climbed on my LAGO PEHOE 10 Base of Las Torres 11 Valle del Silencio

Hostería las Torres / Camping Serón Camping Serón / Refugio Dickson Refugio Dickson / Camping los Perros Camping los Perros / Camp. Paso Hostería las Torres / Valle del Silencio Paso John Gardner 1.240 540 1.300 Paso Tronco Snow Limits. Terreno 150 Valle Encantado 150 150 Vega Grande pesado 700 Camp. Coirón 140 140 540 540 Your choice makes us different... 8,9 8,5 4½ 8,7 5½ 12 7 10% 4hrs km. 6hrs km. km. km. 4hrs Discount hrs hrs km. Showing this Ad. Camp. Paso / Refugio Grey Refugio Grey / Refugio Paine Grande Refugio Paine Grande / Camp. Italiano Camp. Italiano / Hostería las Torres Hostería las Torres / Base la Torres Acarreo 540 Camp. Los Guardas Camp. Torres 540 870 Escalas de Cuerdas Laguna los Palos Refugio Chileno Refugio los Cuernos Escalas de Cuerdas Río Olguín Quebrada los Vientos 220 La Cuesta A delicious proposal... 50 -50 200 Cuesta 150 50 150 50 We have a delicious proposal for you. 10 3½ 11 2½ 7,6 16,5 9,5 Fine local and international food with our unique touch. 4hrs km. Hrs km. hrs km. 7hrs km. 4hrs km. You are invited...

Central Main Central Torre Punta Peak Cuerno (2.800 mts.) Bariloche (3.050 mts.) (2.600 mts.) (2.600 mts.) South Finely decorated rooms. American Buffet breakfast. Near to main attractions. North Torre Almirante Nieto Cuerno (2.850 mts.) Mountain Trono Cabeza (2.400 mts.) East (2.640 mts.) Blanco de Indio Cuerno (2.197 mts.) (2.230 mts.) (2.200 mts.)

Manuel Bulnes 90, Puerto Natales, Chile - Telephone (56.61) 412478 email: [email protected] Taste the ﬂ avour of Patagonia. www.hotelcharlesdarwin.com Pisco Sour. Sea food. Lamb meat. Fine chilean wines. welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine HOTEL 20 21

PUERTO NATALES CHILE

HOTEL

PUERTO NATALES CHILE

Your parking. home in Puerto Natales. Restaurant and bar. Private For booking call Telephone. 56.61 712100

Carlos Bories 278, Puerto Natales, Chile [email protected] www.hotelmarti ngusinde.com Cree que su negocio debería estar aquí? Conversemos. 613940. Are you in Patagonia? Then you can not miss it... email: [email protected]

Are you in Patagonia?

Are you in Patagonia? Then you can’t miss it...

Then you can’t miss it...

Enjoy the wonders of Torres del Paine National Park aboard M/N Grey II in a half day excursion to Glaciar Grey.

Departures everyday at 9.00, 14.00 and 18.00 (56.61) 712100 We suggest to Booking advance Book now! www.turismolagogrey.com welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 22 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 23 Punta Arenas City What to do? Capital of the Magallanes Region. 254 kms to Puerto Natales. Cerro de la Cruz Standing in Cerro de la Cruz (Hill of the Cross) is a great attraction. You can see the Strait makes the view very colourful. How to get there? Locate point 8 in the left page map.If 8 of Magellan and the Mountain Range in the background. If the day is fine the clouds you are in the Main Saquare go two streets to the right to Colón Avenue and go up until and the blue sky seem painted by an artist. The roofs are painted in strong colors which Señoret street and the a few steps to the lookout point. Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008

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Punta Arenas City and 1 The Strait of Magellan.

5 3 Maggiorino Borgatello Museum Estancia Lolita Juan Almonacid ©2008 Juan Almonacid ©2008 Patagonia and elegant swans. Beautiful black faced ibis and light vultures already adapted to the cold weather at 2 metres distance. There is a close interaction Main Square 1 6 with animals like Guanaco, Darwin Rhea, 2 Cathedral Patagonia Armadillo, Austral Parakeet, Financial Center Austral Cavy, Night Heron, Kelp Geese, 3 Grey Fox, Caracara, Chimango Hawk, Grey 4 Salesian Museum M Headed Geese and more. 5 Regional Museum a ge Location: Km 42 North. 6 Pier ll Length: 1 hour and 30 minute walk or an If you are interested about the history of More than 200 guanacos running and 7 Church playing on a typical farm in Patagonia. 30 minutes in a vehicle. St the aborigins, we recommend you to visit You can appreciatte more than 30 species Open Everyday from 10AM to 6PM Cerro de la Cruz Lookout Point Santino Pub ra this museum. This museum’s history began 8 9 it of fauna in their natural environment. Telephone: +56.61 233057 Bus 10 Norweisser Chocolates in 1893 with the priest Borgatello and his Puma, ñandú, the largest bird in size in www.faunapatagonica.com colaborator Angel Bonove. They began to Turistic Information Office Casa Diez Souvenirs Store 11 organize the etnographic collection gathered San Isidro Lighthouse by the Salesian Missionaries and the Population: 110.000. Faces the Magellan painted metal roofs that have characterised Tourism cruises, fishing fleets, scientific winds (up to 130 km/hour). Winds tend natural histories collection of Mr. Benove. Strait which can be seen for the first time the city for many years, although since investigators, merchandise transportation to be strongest during the summer when The Museum offers a valuable specialized from your airplane just before the plane about 1970 the availability of other colours sail through these southern waters city officials put up ropes in the downtown library with photographic and audiovisual lands at Punta Arenas’ airport. Punta Arenas in protective finishes for the characteristic throuhout the year. It is also the main door area to assist with unique currents of wind material about the ethnic population and is a 3- hour- bus to Puerto Natales then a 2- metal roofing has resulted in greater to the Antarctic continent. created by the buildings. history among other themes. hour- bus to Torres del Paine National Park. varieties. Climate Main Attractions History & Activity Location & Geography The seasonal temperature in Punta Arenas Among its main attractions there are Nowadays, the building has 4 levels with San Isidro is the southernmost lighthouse in the place, had our meal and came back. It is The 17th century explorer John Byron is The cordillera de los Andes offers a scenery is greatly moderated by its proximity to the museums, the monument to the shepherd, exhibitions about history, religion, fauna, continental America, in Brunswick Peninsula. important to check tide hours to cross the flora, industry and trade from the region of This place is located 90 kilometeres river easily. You can ask a travel agency for sometimes given credit for the naming. But divided by big creeks crossed by channels ocean, with average lows in July near −1 °C the cemetery; regional history and to the south of Punta Arenas City (Lat a toured program. This beautiful place was it was not until much later than any sort of that form interior seas, like gulfs Almirante (30.2 °F) and highs in January of 14 °C (57 resources centers; the town theatre; the Magallanes. 53°47’3.93”S Long 70°59’2.54”O) not too the point of reference for ships sailing across city was settled by the Chilean government Montt and Isla Riesco. From Torres del °F). This doesn’t mean that it is known for main square, magnificent buildings, duty far from Fuerte Bulnes to the south. If you the Strait of Magellan some centuries ago. (1843). The name Punta Arenas grew out of Paine, the Andes turn their north south stable constant temperatures, only small free, the Strait of Magellan, Cerro de la Office Hours: Tuesday to sunday are an adventurer, walking by the seaside of There are also ruins of an old ship. the Spanish term “Punta Arenosa”, which direction to end in the Beagle Channel with variability with season. Punta Arenas is also Cruz, penguin colonies, Forest Reservations, 10AM to 12:30AM & 3PM to 6PM the Strait of Magellan is a great experience. was a literal translation of the English name an east-west direction. Magellan Strait quite dry, with only 43 millimetres (1.7 in) Fuerte Bulnes, trekking circuits in native Telephone: +56.61 221001 We drove until Rio San Pedro, a few miles A new lodging option has been set here. ‘Sandy Point’. Punta Arenas has also been is 560 long and keeps a high relevance in of rain in its wettest month of May. Among woods areas, variety of birds, rural tourism, www.museomaggiorinoborgatello.cl south from Fuerte Bulnes and walked for Visit www.hosteriafarosanisidro.com for called “the city of the red roofs” for the red- navigation and maritime communications. Chileans the city is also known for its strong lighthouses and more. about 2.5 hours to the Lighthouse, enjoyed further information.

Punta Arenas Main Square.

Cree que su negocio debería estar aquí? Conversemos. 613940. email: [email protected] BAR - LOUNGE - RESTAURANT 657 Colón Av., Punta Arenas, Phone 56.61 710882 www.santino.cl welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 24 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 25 Marcelo Kunstmann ©2008 The Magellanic Penguin. A funny guy in a tux that goes away but is more loyal than any other one. Imagine... you are away from home on a trip for several months. Once you Isla Magdalena came back home, how would you find your mate if all looked the same and there More than 100.000 each year. were lots of them? You may want to be remembered by your voice...

With a height of between 60 to 75 centimeters and a weight bewteen 3 and 6 kilograms, Magellanic Penguins are a real pleasure to watch. Males are larger than the females. Adults have black backs and white stomachs. Their head is black and have a broad white border running from behind the eye, around the black ear-coverts

and chin, and joining on the throat. Chicks and juveniles are grey-blue on their backs, with a more faded grey- Isla Magdalena. More than 120.000 penguins. blue color on their chest. In the wild, Magellanic Penguins can live up to 25 years. Like the other species of penguins, the Magellanic Penguin has very rigid wings used to ‘fly’ under water. Magellanic Penguins mate with the same partner year after year. Males claim the burrow from the previous year and wait to reconnect with their female partners. The females are able to recognize their mates through their call alone. Range & Habitat. Magellanic penguins, (Spheniscus magellanicus) are found around the Falkland Islands and the coasts of Argentina and Chile. They are an abundant species with an estimated 100,000 breeding pairs Ecstatic Display. Magellanic Penguins are considered relatively aggressive and can in the Falklands alone. Larger populations inhabit Argentina and Chile. Breeding colonies are found from the inflict a strong bite if touched. Although penguins can be approached, they arewary Isla Magdalena is a small island in the Strait of Gulf of San Matías in Argentina, south to Tierra del Fuego, and north along the Pacific coast of Chile up to Puerto of human presence. Birds may cock their heads from side to side as a warning Magellan, Chile. It is located in Magallanes Region Montt. In the region of Magallanes they can be found on Magdalena Island and in Otway Sound. Magellanic signal. Cessation of normal activity may also be indicative of penguins nest in burrows in more sparsely populated colonies than other species and prefer offshore islands northeast of the regional capital Punta Arenas. In disturbance in particular with nesting birds. Magellanic with tall grass and vegetation where they can find protection from birds of prey. Although the Atlantic coast 1982 it was declared national monument as part penguins are relatively noisy and make a donkey-like of South America has less vegetation, it is still home to a large breeding colony. of Los Pingüinos Natural Monument. The penguin braying noise. Magellanic Penguins are often seen performing the “ecstatic display”. This can either be colony on the island hosts over 60,000 breeding pairs Breeding. Magellanic penguins, only attempt to breed once every part of the mating ritual or can merely be indicative of the Magellanic Penguin. The island is currently year. The male returns to the colony to claim its usual burrow with the female of territory ownership. Birds performing this display uninhabited. returning later. Breeding tends to be with the same partner stretch their neck and point their beaks skywards as in previous seasons and begins in September-October, whilst spreading their wings and making a braying depending on the longitude of the colony. Simple noise. The display is often performed repetitively Swimming Otway Sound nests are built in burrows or small pits and 2 similar-sized over periods of up to an hour or more. eggs are laid within a period of 3-4 days. Incubation takes approx. 40 days. After hatching, chicks remain in the nest until fledging, which can take from as little as 9 to as long as 17 weeks depending on food abundance. Mortality of the 2nd chick is higher and the first chick tends to be favoured byn the parents, specially when food is limited.

Located behind Punta Arenas and at only 40 minutes Otway Sound is a beautiful place where you can ride a horse by the seaside in the search for penguins. (See ad on page 31) AV DA. ULTIM A ES PERANZA

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to Punta Arenas CAMILO HENRIQUEZ Daniel and Mariana, are a young couple BLANCO ENCALA BLANCO ENCALADA DA who changed their life from the big city

ES DA to a small town in Patagonia, Puerto 90 km Natales. 5 TACNA to Torres del Paine . BULN Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers are located in Bernardo stops at Puerto Toro pier and then passengers walk by the shore

O´HIGGINS A. PRAA. PRAT M T ESMERAL 1 TENIEN O’Higgins National Park, near Torres del Paine National Park. on the left side of the picture through a wonderful native forest Lovers of the purity of these faraway 4

TE This is Serrano glacier and its lake. This glacier can be reached and along the coastline of Lake Serrano reaching very close to lands and of good beer (specially Daniel

A from Puerto Natales taking a regular navigation that usually the glacier wall. Check for the excursion at any Travel Agency or who told us he proudly has spent time

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T N takes the whole day. After navigating for a few hours the vessel at your lodging place.

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A S time, they thought how good it would Riding a bike in Patagonia. A quiet night life... be to produce for others and so, to offer R MAGALLANES AMON BARROS LUCO a distinctive beer in Puerto Natales. EZ U IG MONTT Going along the road to the north or south Making new friends with other travelers DR O 3 That is how Cerveza Baguales began. In . R M PEDRO is great with all that mountains in the C or with local people can be entertaining O an associative enterpreunership with S TA SEÑORET background. There is plenty of loca fauna N E and is safe in Puerto Natales. Pubs offer a Chad, a friend and partner from the 1 Main Square R BARROS Ú A ARANA Y to enjoy along Ultima Esperanza Sound. A USA they have acquired the knowledge l G relaxed ambience, the typical Pisco Sour

ti N Handycraft Town i U The air is perfect to purify yourself inside 2 m Y to create, using natural ingredients and and re gain energy. Just try a bike ride to and international drinks as well. Although 3 Historical Museum a businesses accept credit cards it is a good no preservants, two recipes of rugged BORIES PASAJE B wherever you may want to go. It is safe. E ULNES bier with the spirit of a “Patagon”. I

Post Office s EBERHARD idea to bring some vcash. 4 p Everybody can do. No age limit. Grab your had the pleasure to drink a couple of e camera and don’t forget to send us a good 5 Parrish LADRILLERO glasses directly for the barrels and ra picture of you, the bike and the scenery to C Walking along the seaside and wait for the O ES hope to repeat the experience soon. S n T Pier A 6 N [email protected] z ERA sunset is an excellent option. The sun sets AURELIO ROZAS a P E Hospital DR facing the city from the sea and is perfect Moving to a small town has brought 7 O . BULN S M Did you think that Torres del Paine National Where to rent a bike: O M 6 certain benefits: a more relaxed life in a o NT for the more romantic ones and for those Bus T Park and the glaciers were the only thing to u Sendero Aventura, Tomas Rogers 179. city with eternal and romantic sunsets n go to? We hope not. That would be a big Office Hours: Everyday. who enjoy photography. Undoubtedly, Turistic Information Office NTT MO and a beautiful child to rise and to d DRO PE you will remember Puerto Natales as one mistake! Puerto Natales is a very beautiful 10AM to 1PM and 3PM to 11PM. watch playing in Patagonia fields. city and the surroundings are spectacular. 1 hour: CLP 2.000, 5 hours: CLP 5.000 of the place you have been in...

Puerto Bories Historical Museum. agencies to advise on attractions. There was the British expedition of the frigate exporters, until the end of the seventies. Puerto Bories Historical Museum. are almost 100 lodging chances from HMS Beagle. The names of some the colonization began. With more than 100 The Best Hot Chocolate in Town ! Location & Geography years of age this place has become an bunk houses to fine hotels. expeditioners (Robert FitzRoy, William Coffee, Brownies, Cakes & Home Made Chocolate Near 254 kilometers to the NW of Punta attraction. Having a stroll by Puerto Bories uerto Natales is a small town Visit us in Puerto Natales! History Skyring and James Kirke) is the origin of Arenas, the city is located at the bank is like going back in a time machine. An alongsideP Ultima Esperanza sound with a several place-names in the area. Puerto Just 2 blocks to the Main Square The Province where the city is located of Channel Señoret inlet, which mixes enormous lonely chimney and high block Just 2 blocks to the Coast. population of 19.000 inhabitants... who was baptized under the name Última Natales comes from the Latin term natalis, its waters at the south with Almirante wall that survived the pass of time gives live peacefully all year long. It is a blessed which means birth. Founded in 1911 and us some idea of what it all was like. A Esperanza (Last Hope) by the sailor Juan Montt gulf, a big interior sea and at the victorian archictechture, english machinery, place to develop commercial activities colonized by people from Chiloe Island, Ladrilleros, who was looking for the Strait north with Ultima Esperanza fjord. Puerto workshops and other equipment tells about as tourism, fishing and farming. The city of Magellan in the year 1557. It was his and by German and English colonists Natales is 256 km. from Rio Gallegos a time of gold. Gigantic warehouses for has a good tourist infrastructure, coffee last hope to find the Strait. In 1830 a who, with their particular persistence, (NE) (Argentina), 362 km. from Calafate sheep shearing and storing the wool. shops, restaurants, a casino, a picturesque new expedition sailed through the fjords transformed the Patagonia into one of (Argentina) (N), and 48 km. from Rio shopping, a history museum, and travel and channels of Última Esperanza. It the most important cattle producers and Turbio (Argentina) (N). Just 5 kilometers from the city there is an Office Hours: Everyday architechtural witness of the colonization 9AM to 1PM and from 3PM to 8PM. of Chilean Patagonia. Puerto Bories was Admission price: CLP 3.500 an active village before Puerto Natales How to get there: 1 hour walk or a Cab for Barros Arana 233, Puerto Natales - Phone +56.61 415285 - www.patagoniadulce.cl was founded and one of the places where CLP 2.000 average.

Hotel 1900 Capitán Eberhard Comfortable Rooms Enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner with the best view in our Restaurant. Urban Handycraft Design Located in the Seaside Avenue.

Pedro Montt 58, Puerto Natales Bulnes 622, Bulnes 555, Puerto Natales,Miriam Patagonia, Chile Telephone Parra (+56,61) 410931 - 415860 Phone (56+61) 411208 - email: [email protected]

[email protected] welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 28 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 29 Aldo Merello ©2008 Another more innovative solution consists in storing the wind electricity into a physical product by manufacturing it from a cheap raw material, water for example. The electrolysis of water requires electrical energy to decompose Milodón’s Cave water into hydrogen and oxygen, that can be stored as gas by its compression. The hydrogen behaves as natural gas, Between myth and reality. and contains good energy levels and is less risky to handle In 1896 the scientific world was fascinated by the discovery of skin, bonesand than gasoline, and does not produce carbon emissions other remains of an extinct animal in this cave: The Milodon (Mylodon Darwini). during its combustion; the oxygen is also a valuable by- Scientists originally believed the remains to be fresh, indicating that the animal product. Although the chemically induced electrolytic still existed. But later tests proved that the remains were thousands of years old. process is well known since the 19th century, the advent The milodon did supposedly extinct by the end of the Pleistocene era. of modern permeable membranes to ions is opening great spaces for a new, efficient, chemically neutral processes The Cueva del Milodón is a very known attraction located just 24 kilometers north to manufacture hydrogen, which can be put in operation of Puerto Natales on the way to Torres del Paine National Park. This natural monu- by clean electricity from renewable resources. ment is composed by three caves and a rock formation known as the Silla del Diablo (Devil’s Seat). The main cave is 150 meters above sea level, measures 30 meters A well known automobile company is has improved high, 80 meters long and 200 meters deep. Aside from the cave and its historical internal combustion motors to operate with hydrogen and scientific importance, the region has lovely landscapes. This is because this as fuel, and promotes a national system of stations at area is a transition between the steppe and the forest. Some local trees and plants highways for hydrogen recharge; other companies develop include the ñirre, the calafate and the romerillo. The Magellan’s Wind. Fuel Cells to directly generate electricity by recombining hydrogen and air over an active surface. These solutions The Silla del Diablo is just a kilometer before the cave. This huge rock formation A free and clean natural resource of energy. are environmentally friendly because water is re-created by by CERE-UMAG, Center for Energy Studies, University of Magellan. looks like an enormous chair. When the milodon remains were discovered in this the combustion of hydrogen and there is only conversion, area, a folk tale was born that this was the milodon’s seat. Over time, the devil took There are only a few days a year when wind is not blowing Although abundant and almost permanent, the wind speed rather than consumption of energy in the whole process, the place of the milodon in the rock formation’s name. over the steppe of Magallanes. And if some days it seems is unstable and therefore limited to be used as a constant energy that may be permanently available in form of wind source of electricity. It must be injected to a bigger, firm, that there is a little breeze flowing slow at ground level, in Magallanes region. The Corporación Nacional Forestal (CONAF, the National Forest Corporation), there is always a lot of wind energy at higher altitudes. electrical grid, generally fueled by fossils. That grid will only which oversees the area, has set up picnic areas; a popular place to go to for the receive about 30% to 40% of the total wild wind electricity Processed statistics of recorded data at meteorological Can Patagonia export its wind energy as cryogenic liquid inhabitants of Puerto Natales. Before the cave there is an office and small museum stations shows annual average wind speeds of 9 and10 in order to maintain the quality of generated electricity. or compressed hydrogen for new clean combustion with regarding information. meter per second, at a standard 10 meter height. So, what should be done to take real advantage of the technologies? Of course. Besides wind, Magallanes has important primary energy resources: natural gas, some oil There is also a Coffee Shop & Restaurant with a great view to the mountain range The driving force for wind is a differential of pressure in the enormous wind energy potential of Magallanes? Although and huge reserves of coal. There are notorious tidal marine and a souvenir store. air caused by density changes due to solar radiation which the space is enough to install hundreds without disturbing currents in the Strait of Magellan and in many fjords and pushes it from high to lower centers. It is also accelerated the landscape, the rather small electrical grids of the cities channels. by the rotation of the planet and at Magallanes latitude in the region can accept the electricity converted by a few How to get there? number of machines only. Then, how to save the electricity the westerlies winds blow as frontal systems created at the If you are traveling by car just go north from Puerto Natales by the paved road. You in a way that can be used at will, whenever necessary? Not open South Pacific Ocean. Indeed, nearly three quarters of The conversion technologies finally define the cost of the will see a sign that indicates detour to the left by the unpaved road. Just a few miles in chemical batteries of course, because of the too low the time in a year, the wind comes from the NorthWest - electricity and other fuels used for heating and cooking, and you are there. The same road takes to Torres del Paine National Park by Serrano capacity of these devices. SouthWest. and at present the fossil fuels show more convenient entrance and should be driven carefully. If you are by yourself, travel Agencies offer economic figures when evaluation is made with an average the tour in Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas as a regular excursion. Good technical solutions are under fast development term vision. The real necessity to reduce carbon emissions The wind is caught by special profiled blades installed in through mechanical and electrochemical means. It is from fossil fuel combustion puts strong pressure to rotors at 50 or more meters high, transforming the push possible to store energy in modern flywheels, made with increase the use of renewable energy resources, in order Trekking Paths of the air into a slow rotational movement of no more composite material running on high efficiency support axes, to firmly recover the natural balance of the atmosphere Path to the Big Cave: than 30 revolutions per minute. Then, a mechanical gear almost frictionless. The rotational mass that is accelerated composition. The almost always present wind of Magellan Educative trail with an extensión of 800 device and/or an electronic system inside the nacelle on by an electrical motor when absorbing energy at high meters. It takes just 30 minutes. The path has the top of the windmill, converts the energy of the air into winds, releases it when necessary to mantain the speed is a valuable, real factor towards this urgent goal: we stations with information with features and electricity. A windmill installed in Magallanes can produce of the electricity generator, when wind speed decreases. should be harvesting it now to produce clean electricity, answers regarding the place. This can be done by the equivalent of more than 4.000 hours per year at its This dynamic solution has been applied in commercial and continue searching on how to store the enormous, anybody without restriction of age. nominal power rate, thus representing more than a 50% of applications as back-up low consumption energy systems, endless wind energy into a product, to use it on demand as Plant Factor, doubling standard european parks. eliminating the need of conventional batteries. clean, natural, renewable fuel. Small Cave Path: This is 35 meters long. The ground is made of sandstone and cement. It has no explicative signs. Coffee Shop | Restaurant | Books & Maps | Postcards & Stamps | Souvenirs | Leather | Wool Garments MILODÓN The Making of... The Milodón was a herbivorous mammal with Arnaldo Alarcón Fabres, former regional director of Tourism in the aspect of a big bear with the head of a Magallanes in the late seventies told us interesting camel. It belonged to the family of the Armadillo, details about the Milodon in the cave. The the ant-bear and the sloth and the calculations original idea to set a Milodon in the entrance say that his height was twice a human being’s one. of the cave belongs to architech and writer Alvaro Barros who in the seventies projected Hand Craft his idea and contacted the National Museum The causes of its exctintion are not clear: it might have of Natural History. Harold Krusell, a talented been hunted by the first landers of the extreme south of artist, was the man who in 1978 developed the continent or because of a huge climate change that the idea at his workshop in Santigo de Chile and made temperature rise and change the vegetation. A third made a 1:1 model from fiber-resin material. The Milodon factor might have been the vulcanic activity. Perhaps, was exhibited at the University of Magellan in Punta Arenas In front of the mix of these factors made this animal disappear. for a week which caused much interest among its inhabitants. After that it was sent to Puerto Natales and set in the cave. Cueva del Milodón Cueva del Milodón, Mobile phone: 09 7 462 9227 | Eberhard 301, Puerto Natales, Telephone: 414382 | Cerro Casti llo, Telephone: 413063 welcomepatagonia welcomepatagonia 30 Travel Information Magazine Travel Information Magazine 31 Crossword Puzzle Just for Fun... 1 2 IN Cool, I like your piercing!! SAFARI 3 4 PATAGONIA 5 6 in Estancia Lolita See more than 200 Guanacos running and playing. Let the 7 Puma stare at you. Admire the Ñandú, the largest bird in size in Patagonia and watch the 8 elegance of the Swans. I Don`t Have a Clue! What`s up in Welcome Patagonia Magazine? From beautiful black faced 9 10 ibis to light rapacious already adapted to the cold weather at 2 metres distance. A wonderful experience at only 11 12 30 minutes from Punta Arenas.

Go boys! Help daddy to hit Ctrl + Alt + Del. Contact us for more 13 This thing stucked again! information!

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17 Patagonic fauna - Estancia Lolita, Km. 42 North - Punta Arenas, Chilean Patagonia - Phones 56-61 233057 - 211645 Answer Key www.faunapatagonica.com

18 HORSEBACK RIDING TO PENGUIN COLONY HORSEBACK RIDING - BIRDWATCHING - TYPICAL PATAGONIA FARM LIFE Down Across 1. Biggest bird that runs. 3. You can take a lot. 2. It can fly so high. 5. Can take you to Torres del Paine National Park. 4. Protected mammal in the Park. 9. Your home outdoors. 6. 2 of them. The Grande and the Chico. 10. A river and a glacier. 7. Capital city of Magallanes Region. 13. A famous traveler and scientist. 8. A funny dude in a tuxedo. 15. A big guy in the entrance of a cave. 11. Delicious fish. 17. There is one at the end of every day. 12. A grand variety in Chile. 18. 3 rounded peaks. 14. Typical Patagonia bush with a red flower. 16. Delicious meat when roasted.

Two Wonderful Expeditions to the Corners of Patagonia!

Estancia Telephone 56.61 613933 email: info@expedicionﬁ tzroy.com Rio Corey www.expedicionﬁad tzroy.com Join us in this Incredible Experience! PATAGONIA - CHILE Book in your travel agency or call 09 7 637 8583 - [email protected] Beautiful Images of Patagonia Amazing Posters and Postcards

- Size 32x70 cms. - Printed in Fine Paper - Finish Coating - Transport Tube included

- Size 10x53 cms. - Easy to fold and send - Unique design in Patagonia - Amazing Panoramic Images AVAILABLE AT SELECTED STORES ONLY: Casa Diez, Bories 720, Punta Arenas. (See map page 25) Ñandú Artesania, Eberhard 301, Puerto Natales. a Hotel Rio Serrano, Torres del Paine. welcomepatagonia Product