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THE BRIGHT SIDE OF ROMITO !% !$
Abruzzo, Cinque Miglia Plateau, 41.877997°N 14.009113°E. Arriving here is take over the family business – the pâtisserie that like landing on would be turned into a trattoria, the Reale, in 1996. the moon – not the kind of landscape you associate With quiet determination Romito made his choice: with Italy. No houses, just nine kilometres of empti- home, family, Abruzzo and the restaurant business. The ness crossed by lines of fir trees reminiscent of airport passion for food had always been there, personal, landing strips. This is the heart of one of Italy’s remot- deeply felt, but his kitchen experience was next to zero. est, rockiest and most stunningly beautiful regions. One thing is growing up in a pasticceria, but running Unspoilt nature, glacial winters and green Swiss- a business, a professional kitchen, and plan ning an en- like summers. Metres of snow and below-zero tempera- tire menu from scratch is something else entirely. tures from November to February (it is almost 1,300m He began by experimenting, by trial and error. He above sea level); heather in bloom and herds of sheep was producing simple, rustic dishes, such as his patata grazing on pastureland in the warmer months. brioche, a basic roll of French pastry and mashed pota- Descending towards the Valle del Sangro, 15 kilo- toes. In time he started to travel, tried his hand at new metres past Rivisondoli we reach Castel di Sangro, things and got to know his region better. He attended known to Italian football-lovers for one reason only: conferences, met other chefs and studied his craft. the small local team once managed to climb its way Over the next six years the Reale’s cuisine evolved, up to the “Serie B”, the second-highest division of the as did the front-of-house operation, under the manage- Italian football league system. In the last two years, ment of Niko’s sister and closest work partner Crist iana. however, Castel di Sangro has become famous as the A dedicated, elegant and efficient hostess, a high home of Niko Romito, the chef whose enchanting cui- priestess of floor management, Cristiana supports her sine has brought him a third Michelin star in the space brother’s choices at every step of the way, enabling of just seven years. him to grow. Haute cuisine is not common in this neck of the Romito’s cuisine makes use of Abruzzo’s native in- woods, not until recently. Here, in this land of moun- gredients; lamb and other meats, but also ricotta and tains, shepherds and bears, it was regarded almost as an saffron. It is an original take on local cuisine, however, affront to the quintessentially humble and frugal mate- one that seeks merely to capture the essence, through rial culture which is such a part of Abruzzo’s identity. extraction and concentration of flavour. It is a light cui- The relationship between Romito and his home- sine that uses fats sparingly, and one in which water is land was difficult in the beginning. His cuisine has a key ingredient, with liquids centre stage – broths, always been elegant and accessible at the same time, infusions, cooking water, extractions and reductions. intellectual and sophisticated, but the local people did One of his signature dishes, assoluto di cipolla, is an not take to it readily. Visitors from Rome or Naples, onion reduction served with tiny parmesan-filled, here for weekend breaks and skiing holidays, revealed button-shaped ravioli, and a scattering of saffron strands themselves to be more adventurous, more comfortable sourced from the nearby Altopiano di Navelli. with experimental cuisine. In time these holidaymak- Our familiar notion of the classic onion soup – ers became Romito’s most reliable clientele. gloopy and rich with butter – is here turned on its head. Niko Romito’s route to cheffing is an unusual one. No milk, no fats, no sautéed base; just lightness and His father was the owner of a pastry shop in Rivison- pure flavour with vegetable ingredients only. The sweet- doli, a village of 717 inhabitants that is perched bet ween ness of cooked onion is contrasted with the savoury Roccaraso and the neighbouring Pescocostanzo. When Parmigiano Reggiano inside the ravioli. his father’s health suddenly declined, Romito dropped The small flavoursome ravioli are inspired by out of university, where he was studying finance, to the teachings of the continues on page 93
WORDS ELISIA MENDUNI PHOTOGRAPHY PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN !! !&