Your news and views? Email us at [email protected] SPECIAL EDITION: the

tHE GIBB Special

Times March 17, 2017 SPECIAL ROAD EDITION A road with A legendary track a highlight at every turn It’s a long and dusty road but you’ll never forget there’s plenty to keep grey If your Big Lap is about nomads interested. Start- ing from the Derby end and making memories, this is heading north-east along the an adventure not to miss , travellers will come across (in order): The Gibb River Road. The • Birdwood Downs cattle mere mention of the name station (camping) is enough to get grey nomad • Turn off to Windjana pulses racing. Gorge and Tunnel Creek. A rugged, largely unsealed • Turn off to Mt Hart Wil- track through the heart of the derness Lodge (camping) Western ’s stunning • Turn off to Lennard Gorge Kimberley region that will in King Leopold Range Con- take you to waterfalls, gorges, servation Park remote stations and beauti- • Turn off to Bell Gorge and ful campsites. Along the way, Silent Grove (camping) you will experience sights and • Imintji Store (diesel, tyre sounds that will live with you Crossing the is all part of the adventure. PIC: Australia’s North West Tourism patching, general supplies) forever, and discover a cama- • Turn off to Mornington Proper preparation and a planned your trip carefully raderie that can only be forged Wilderness Camp (camping) healthy respect for the track and are carrying sufficient to by genuine adventure. • Station are the keys to maximising the cope with unexpected situa- And make no mistake, for (camping) pleasure derived from taking tions. all the improvements to the • Adcock Gorge it. Travellers should ensure While free campsites are not road and for all the increasing • Galvans Gorge their vehicles are in good or- as plentiful as they once were, numbers of travellers, tackling • Manning Gorge (camping) der, they carry sufficient water, there are still excellent camp- the Gibb River Road remains • Turn off to they have spare tyres, they ing options at some stations an adventure. It is, though, an Gorge have thought about things like and at some gorges. achievable one. • Mount Elizabeth Station emergency communication, Few of those grey nomads Most of the road is dirt and (camping) and that they have thoroughly who have overcome their gravel construction, with some • Turn off to Drysdale Sta- researched what lies ahead. doubts and ‘gone for it’ regret floodways paved. While there tion, Kalumburu, and the Road conditions here can vary their decision to immerse are river crossings and it is Mitchell Plateau wildly depending on when it themselves in one of the definitely a track for 4WD • Turn off to Sta- last rained and when the grad- world’s great wilderness areas. wheel drive vehicles, some tion (camping) ers have been through. Gener- We hope that this special edi- caravans and campers do now • crossing ally speaking, the earlier in the tion of the Grey Nomad Times travel it. • ‘season’ you go, the more water will give you at least some Most grey nomads who (camping) there will be about and the insight into the wonders that haven’t had an awful lot of dirt • Pentecost River crossing fuller the rivers will be. this remarkable and beautiful road experience approach the • Turn off to El Questro Sta- Similarly, while there are place offers. Welcome to the challenge with an element of tion (camping) places to buy fuel on the road, Gibb River Road. trepidation, as well as excite- • Turn off to Emma Gorge ment. And that’s a good thing. you need to ensure you have Click to comment

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tHE GIBB Special

Times March 17, 2017 ‘Everyone should do it’ By Glen Chidlow Chief Executive, Australia’s North West Tourism

Turning off the bitumen and going ‘over the range’ on the Gibb River Road is a truly unique Aussie outback adventure. It takes you through the Kim- berley’s vast untouched wil- derness comprised of ancient gorge country, rugged ranges, pristine waterways, savannah Beautiful Bell Gorge (left) plains, and epic cattle stations and Windjana Gorge (above) are highlights which can be the size of small PICS: Australia’s North West Tourism countries. The Gibb River Road is one of Gorge, Bell Gorge, Galvan’s the magnificent waterfall at the conditions, the lack of Australia’s great drive adven- Gorge, Manning Gorge, Bell Gorge, or seeing incred- repair options along the route, tures, and a journey that all Station, Home ible examples of Aboriginal and not to mention the dust! Australians should aim to Valley Station and El Questro rock art at Mt Elizabeth Sta- Fuel is available at only a few experience. Wilderness Park. Or make a tion, there is a raft of experi- locations along the route, so It’s the artery that runs shortlist of your must-see at- ences to be had along the appropriate planning is essen- through the heart of the Kim- tractions for a shorter, but no route. tial. The Mt Barnett Road- berley. It provides the traveller less exciting trip. The road itself is a well-main- house and Imintji Store both with the opportunity to see Pastoralists along the Gibb tained unsealed road and is provide diesel fuel, as well as and experience the highlights River Road have embraced recommended for 4WD vehi- the chance to top up on essen- of the incredible landscape tourism, and nearly all the cles only. The surface changes tial grocery items. Mt Barnett for which the Kimberley is stations offer some form of considerably along the route, also has unleaded fuel. renowned. accommodation or camping with corrugations, rough Over the Range Tyre and Originally constructed in the facilities. Each property pro- gravel and creek crossings Mechanical is located not far 1960s to transport cattle from vides something a bit differ- presenting some challenges. from Mt Barnett Roadhouse, outlying stations to the ports ent, not only in the accom- In terms of taking your own and Neville and his team have of Derby and Wyndham, the modation offering which can accommodation, the condi- saved many a traveller who 660-kilometre four-wheel- range from five-star resort tions are most suited to an off- has needed a helping hand drive trail is the best way to facilities to riverside camping, road camper trailer or 4WD in relation to tyre or vehicle discover the natural treasures but also in the experiences camper. With continuous repairs. of the Kimberley’s wild heart- that can be had at each over- improvements to the off-road Never is there a better exam- lands. night stay. capability of some caravan ple of when pleasure comes Allow yourself at least 14 days From canoeing along Dimond models, the road is seeing from the journey, rather than to truly immerse yourself Gorge on , more people choosing to take the destination, than when in the adventure to be had fishing for barramundi in the caravans along the road. travelling the Gibb River at places such as Windjana Pentecost River at Home Val- Anyone considering this Road. Gorge, Tunnel Creek, Lennard ley Station, swimming under needs to be very mindful of Click to comment

Page 2 Your news and views? Email us at [email protected] SPECIAL EDITION: the

tHE GIBB Special Times March 17, 2017 ‘A trip we just had to take’ John & Lorraine H were looking for adventure Lorraine & John ... and they found it! share their tips for

We had been warned about surviving the Gibb corrugations, mud and washa- ways, creek crossings, croco- • Secure your paper towels diles and razor sharp stones and toilet rolls ... corruga- turned up by the grader ... but tions do strange things to at no time were we intimidated them! by the trek we were about to • Pack your fridge and pan- undertake. try even more carefully than We arrived in May when the you would normally. roads had recently opened and graded after the Wet season, • Reduce your tyre pressure, and we were raring to go. John & Lorraine cautiously approach the Pentecost crossing and constantly check your We had also been warned tyres as you travel. about towing on the Gibb, Another bucket list item was caravan has three 100-litre • Make sure your spare tyres but were comfortable that our ticked crossing the Pentecost. water tanks, one of these is are in good condition (we 2011 Kedron ATV 21’ caravan We talked to travellers on dedicated drinking water; we have three across the 4WD with independent suspen- the track about conditions, did not have to top this up at and caravan). sion, towed by our 2003 GU watched for several days as any time during our visit to • Cover vents on fridge, but Nissan Patrol would make the the tide rose and fell and, not the area. There are no dump uncover them when stop- distance. wanting to walk the crossing points along the road, so be ping for any length of time. We had tackled the Oodna- due to salties, we watched oth- prepared to take your shovel datta Track a couple of years er vehicles cross to see where and cassette for a walk, dig a • Approach water crossings earlier and our plan in the rocks and holes might be. hole well away from any water with caution and drive to Kimberley was to take two I always worry about fuel and way, to a depth of at least suit the conditions. weeks crossing the 660-kilo- water, but at no time were we 300ml, and ensure you fill the • Don’t be too complacent. metre track, camping in na- in dire straits. We carried an hole in after emptying your Well planned trips should tional parks and homesteads. extra 20 litres of diesel which cassette. always end up enjoyable. We enjoyed the national park we did not use. Fuel is avail- We did not see many caravans You don’t want to be the one campsites at Windjana Gorge able at two roadhouses, Imintji on our trip, mainly rooftop in need of roadside assis- and Silent Grove, and our (diesel only) and Mt Barnett campers on 4WDs or camper tance out there. favourite freedom camp was in Roadhouse (petrol and diesel), trailers. Definitely no wiz the Barnett River Gorge where and also at El Questro (petrol bangs. There were a few off- • Before you leave, check we stayed for almost a week & diesel). The fuel is expen- road caravans. road conditions on the WA beside the river. We discovered sive, but tankers do have to Our casualties: One broken mainroads website. homemade scones at Ellenbrae bring it in on some of the most cup; a container of spilt sugar, and confirm that the road is Station and celebrated the end remote roads in our country! one broken drawer catch; a actually open. of our journey sipping Cham- Water was not an issue. Good bottle of mint sauce lost its lid • Travel is only permitted pagne at El Questro. quality water is available at the (no spillage)’ and our power during the dry (approxi- The only puncture we got on national parks and home- kept tripping off. mately May to October), the track was at Silent Grove. steads, our campsite beside the Would we do the Gibb again? and cannot commence We managed to locate the hiss- pristine Barnett River provid- Oh yes! But we have other until the road is graded ing pinhole and plug it without ed us with plenty of water for tracks to cover off first! and officially opened. even having to remove the tyre. showering and washing. Our Click to comment

Page 3 Your news and views? Email us at [email protected] SPECIAL EDITION: the

tHE GIBB Special

Times March 17, 2017 The Gibb in Brief

In the end, it’s all about On track The Gibb River Road travels through the central Kim- those gorgeous gorges berley Plateau from King Sound at Derby to the Cam- The highlights come thick bridge Gulf at Wyndham. and fast on a drive with The road is the responsibil- multiple destinations ity of Main Roads WA and improvements are made While grey nomads may love every year. the Gibb River Road because of the adventure they find, the Who owns it? friends they make, and the Much of the land along the challenges they overcome, it Gibb River Road is subject is ultimately the sheer beauty to pastoral lease and some of this remarkable part of the belongs to Aboriginal Com- world which will live longest in munities. The Department the memory. of Conservation and Land There are six main gorges Management manages the on the track itself, and also Bring a torch if you venture through Tunnel Creek PIC: Wayne area’s national parks, con- Windjana Gorge and Tunnel though, so don’t forget your cated at the base of steep cliffs servation parks and nature Creek that are found along torches on the return walk of with a cascading waterfall. reserves. the Fairfield/Leopold Downs 90 minutes or so. You will have to pay either en- Road. The earlier in the season Boab blow The flows try fees or camp fees at the Mt you come, the more water will Some of the many boab through the narrow Lennard Barnett Roadhouse if you want be around and the more spec- trees along the Gibb River Gorge before dropping down to visit Manning Gorge. Walk- tacular the falls will be. Road have become tour- spectacularly into a wide ing from the campground you Travelling up from the Derby ist attractions in their own swimming hole surrounded by can swim the Manning River, end, the first gorge that most right. One of the most fa- steep cliffs. It’s a bit of a climb, or wade across further up- travellers visit is the stunning mous, the ‘bathtub boab’ on but there are pools above the stream. The huge gorge boasts Windjana Gorge. The Lennard Ellenbrae Station recently waterfall to take a dip, as well. several pools to swim in. River carved the 3.5 kilometre- fell following heavy rains. The magnificent Bell Gorge is Last but not least is Mt Barnett long gorge through the Napier The 1,000-year-old tree perhaps the pièce de résistance Gorge, and its sandstone cliffs, Range over millions of years. became a ‘photo opportu- of this ancient land. Swimming Pandanus Palms, waterfalls The fossil imprints on the nity’ when an outdoor bath beneath a 100-metre waterfall and refreshing rock pools. limestone cliffs are a reminder tub was placed beneath it in in the shadow of stunning cliffs These gorges are the ‘headline of the ancient sea that was the ’60s. is something that few will ever acts’, but the country is littered once here. Visitors are also forget. Be warned though it with others, including those at struck by the sheer volume of No dogs will require a bit of rock hop- Mt Hart, Mt Elizabeth, Morn- freshwater crocodiles that call Few places along the Gibb ping to get down there. ington, Charnley, Drysdale, the gorge home. River Road allow dogs, and Adcock Gorge boasts granite Home Valley and El Questro. A trip to Tunnel Creek also they are barred from all cliffs, a waterfall, a waterhole There is an awful lot to do and offers a totally unique experi- national parks in the area. for swimming and a number of see on Gibb River Road, and ence. A walk through the cave The Derby Visitor Centre cave paintings. Happily, walk- the most common complaint system which is generally warns that frequent aerial ing down to the gorge which made by travellers is that filled with fresh water may baiting is also carried out, was shaped by Adcock Creek is they did not allow themselves involve a bit of a wade, but and this poses a high risk to relatively straightforward. enough time to relax and enjoy you can mostly walk along domestic pets. Galvan’s Gorge is another long, each of these stunning gorges. sandy banks. It gets pretty dark deep waterhole which is lo- Click to comment

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tHE GIBB Special

Times March 17, 2017 ‘We (and our van) survived!’ Wayne & Kath loved all for a drink,” said Wayne. “This the trials and tribulations was our first ever close-up with freshwater crocs.” of their epic Gibb adventure The following day they drove to Tunnel Creek. While ‘old timers’ love to say “We took several torches driving it is getting easier year and walked mainly on dry on year, the Gibb River Road sand, crossing the stream bed will hopefully always be an several times along the way,” iconic adventure, and a chal- said Wayne. “We passed by a lenge that grey nomads relish. crocodile about four feet away Certainly, the track had long and almost in full dark on one been on Wayne and Kath’s Wayne and Kath took the track in their 4WD tug and van sand bank.” ‘to do’ list when they hit the Back on the road, the rest of Kimberley dirt. They had said Wayne. “We were quite Grove campsite and were de- the track towards Derby was previously travelled mainly on comfortable driving at be- lighted to find taps around the both gravel and bitumen and bitumen roads. tween 50km/h and 60km/h.” site ... and free hot showers. in excellent condition – and They headed south on the The couple loved the Kimber- “The road from there to Wayne says he was even able first section of the Gibb River ley scenery and the adventure. Windjana Gorge and Tunnel to speed up to almost 70km/h! Road to the El Questro Station They crossed the Pentecost Creek was about the worst I And what about the damaged turnoff towing their off-road River, which was almost dry have ever driven, but probably water pipe? Jayco Expander. at the time, and spent time at because of recent rain,” said “Once in Derby I was able to “The road into El Questro Ellenbrae Homestead. Wayne. “It was mostly dry and purchase some replacement was very rough in places, with However, they discovered that heavily rutted in places with plastic pipe for about 70 cents quite a few patches of bull- the rigours of the road had some stretches corrugated … and complete the repair in dust,” said Wayne. “And fi- taken its toll on their caravan but low speed saved the day.” less than 10 minutes,” said nally there was a very pleasant when they noticed a water leak Wayne and Kath loved Wind- Wayne. So, has the experi- little river crossing just before at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse. jana Gorge and not just be- ence whetted their appetite for the homestead area.” “We checked and it turned out cause they were again treated more off-bitumen adventure? It was when they left the sta- to be a cracked plastic water to hot showers. “Absolutely,” said Wayne. tion that the Gibb River Road pipe,” said Wayne. “With no “It’s a real eye-opener with “Our next trip begins in a few adventure began in earnest. spare tubing we had no choice millions of fruit bats fly- weeks ... we will be going from “The first thing we noticed was but to continue, but we did ing along the gorge and the to Queensland via the the corrugations and then the have 40 litres of extra water.” resident crocodiles trying their Great Central Road!” dust, but it was as expected,” They pressed on to the Silent luck for a feed as the bats dip Click to comment

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tHE GIBB Special

Times March 17, 2017 Mitchell Falls ‘It’s even better adds another dimension when it’s wetter!’ For grey nomads for whom a trip along the Gibb River Grey nomads who see Road is not quite adventur- the Gibb in the Dry don’t ous enough, the lure of the know what they’re missing Mitchell Plateau can be irresistible ... but it’s not for For many grey nomads, a Gibb the faint-hearted. River Road adventure is one of the highlights of their Big Lap. Those heading for the iconic They enjoy sharing campsites Mitchell Falls, turn off the with fellow travellers, they Gibb and travel along the love the gloriously predictable for a little Dry Season sunshine and, of over 150 kilometres. While course, they revel in the mag- Lush land ... a Birdwood Downs paddock after a good rain the ‘main’ road carries on to nificent Kimberley scenery. the Aboriginal community Between May and September, planning for the season.” of Kalumburu, the Mitchell the steady stream of travellers Last Wet Season it was just Plateau is reached by taking brings this slice of paradise as Hans and station manager, a genuinely rugged track close as it ever gets to ‘hustle Greg, who stayed behind to at Edward River which will and bustle’. But what few grey man the station. They did have leave you feeling shaken and nomads get to see is the other some company though. Hans rattled, but hopefully not side of the region; the side that says snakes are not uncom- rolled. A bird-watcher’s paradise is only seen when most 4WDs mon, and there are plenty of This is high-clearance four- have gone, the camps are frogs, huge flocks of white to turn it on and I personally wheel drive territory and empty, and the rains fall. cockatoos, the odd dingo, and cope very well with the heat, the bone-jarring three hour Hans Leenaarts is the Director heaps of wallabies. although the humidity can trip is certainly not one of Birdwood Downs Station “We both chose to live here make it a bit difficult,” said for the caravan. Most are on the western end of the Gibb because of the lifestyle so Hans, who never turns on the relieved to reach the basic River Road. He is one of the naturally we more than cope air con in his vehicle either. campsite at the end of the ‘locals’ who reckons peak sea- ... we enjoy,” said Hans. “It is “Mind you, when we step into road. son travellers are missing out not really lonely as we are only the supermarket in Derby it The plateau boasts some on something very special. 20 kilometres out of Derby feels very comfortable after great examples of indig- “The Wet is a great season and have a few neighbours six the first shock of cold and we enous rock art, as well as when everything turns green kilometres away.” certainly experience the wall swamps, gorges and creeks, again,” said Hans. “From While Birdwood Downs of heat when we step outside and the ubiquitous giant mid-April to mid-September warmly welcomes travellers again.” Livistona fan palms. But it’s the weather is absolutely great during the tourist season and But, says Hans, around April really the falls that cause but you need to be here from offers cabins and a bush-style the rains stop, the humidity October to March, as well, to campground with spacious disappears, and the tempera- jaws to drop. truly experience the Kimberley sites suitable for caravans, ture drops again. The four-tiered falls plunge and appreciate the days with Hans admits the end of the “At the end of the Wet, April down some 80 metres, lots of rainfall.” Dry does have its appeal. or May, the country is very and their sheer power is Hans says the days from “It is very quiet when there is green,” he said. “But that breathtaking. You can take December to March are humid no tourism and we love that gradually changes to yellow a scenic flight over them, or and warm, with heavy rain. for a few months per year,” he and brown during the nine simply get out and explore “It is the time of closed roads said. “And the temperatures are months virtually without rain on foot. There is a 6km and tracks and driving around okay as we adapt our working and, of course, the animals eat- return hike that you must the station with care to prevent hours, often starting at 5am.” ing the grasses.” take to get to Mitchell Falls getting bogged,” he said. Birdwood Downs Station has It’s a different season. It’s a from the campground, “There are plenty of jobs to do made it its mission to run on season to welcome travellers, unless you fly there in a during the Wet ... maintenance solar power, so the staff there to welcome extra staff, and to helicopter. on buildings and machines, survive without air-condition- welcome rain-free days. It’s a However you do it, the looking after cattle and horses, ing ... even when the mercury different season, but it’s a won- views over the sandstone- repairing fences after storms, climbs to excessive heights. derful season. They all are in layered landscape are weed control, and sometimes “Since we just don’t have air this part of the world! quite simply unforgettable. seeding and fertilizing, and con we don’t have the urge Click to comment

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