1. Research Findings Fires in the Fashion Industry Supply Chain

Fires in the Fashion Industry Supply Chain June 2020 Stephen Frost, Ph.D., CUHK Business School in association with GoBlu Published: 07 July 2020 1. Research Findings In June 2020, there were 71 fires in the fashion industry supply chain, for an average of 2.4 fires per day. These fires resulted in 14 deaths and 101 injuries (ranging from minor injuries such as smoke inhalation requiring no medical treatment or resulting in hospitalisation but immediate discharge, to serious burns, including one employee with burns to 90% of his body and a firefighter rendered unconscious due to suffocation). As shown in the “June 2020 at a glance” chart above, there were more fire incidents, injuries, and deaths for June than the monthly running averages. Fires were reported in 23 countries, with seven countries reporting more than two fires. India, with 25 fires for the month, accounted for 35% of all fires reported. Fig. 1 shows the number of fires per country. Countries reporting more than two fires for June were (in descending order) India (25), Brazil and Egypt (5 each), Bangladesh and Korea (4 each), and Italy and Taiwan (3 each). Between them, these seven countries accounted for 49 fires (or 69%). As stated above, there were 14 deaths in fires this month. Two workers (one of whom was 16-years- old) died at a fire in a shoe factory in Brazil (#6); one died after a reactor blast and fire in an Indian chemical factory producing pesticides (including those used on cotton - #32); a labourer died of asphyxiation in a spinning mill fire in India (#34); and ten died in India as the result of a boiler explosion and subsequent fire at a chemical plant manufacturing intermediates used in the production of a range of herbicides and insecticides for agricultural use (including those used on cotton) and for azo dyes (#37). The 101 injuries occurred in 12 fires in nine countries [see Fig. 2]. The incident resulting in the most injuries was the pesticide factory fire resulting in ten deaths (one of the worst industrial accidents in India this year - #37), which saw 77 employees admitted to hospital (of which 33 were discharged after treatment). Five were injured (one seriously, with burns to 90% of his body) in a shoe factory fire in Brazil (#6); a 40- year-old worker was injured in a cotton mill fire in Egypt (#12); five were injured in a pesticide factory fire in India, resulting in burns as hot toxic chemicals sprayed over them (#32); two labourers suffered minor injuries in a textile factory fire in India (#34); a man who tried to extinguish a fire in a thread winding factory next door to his hour was injured in India (#41); three firefighters were injured and treated as outpatients after a fire at an adhesive factory (which among other products makes industrial adhesive for shoe production) in Egypt (#46); a worker was taken to hospital after a fire in a tannery in Italy (#48); a 53-year-old employee suffered 2nd degree burn to his entire body in a fire at a sock packaging factory in Korea (#54); a firefighter was rendered unconscious at bedsheet manufacturer in Pakistan (#57); two employees of a label and textile factory suffered from smoke inhalation (one hospitalised) in Taiwan (#62); and two firefighters suffered suspected heat stroke while fighting a fire at a shoe factory in Ukraine (#67). Fig. 3 shows the number of fires per day in all 23 countries where fires were reported. There were no fires reported on three days during the month. On one day (Monday, 08 June), six fires were reported. Finally, Fig. 4 (below) shows the attributed causes of fires this month (when reported). As expected, most fire incident reports do not attribute a cause, stating either the cause of the fire is unknown or is still under investigation. This was the case for 37 incidents this month (51%). For 18 incidents (25%), the cause was attributed (or suspected to be) electrical in nature (almost always a short circuit); see #3, 9, 13, 18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 35, 39, 40, 43, 44 and 56). Nine fires (13%) were caused by equipment failure: #6 (a gas cylinder explosion in a shoe factory); #30 (a malfunctioning cooking stove in a leather bag factory); #32 (a reactor explosion in a pesticide factory); #33 and 34 (both caused by a spark from a machine); #37 (an explosion of an unknown Page 2 of 16 nature); #40 (a gas bottle leak in a dye house); #52 (leak from a boiler in a chemical factory producing TPA); and #62 (where a fire started in a textile machine). There were three cases (4%) of arson: #1 (at a wig and costume factory in Bangladesh, originally thought to have been started by disgruntled workers, but subsequently by a band of criminals unaffiliated with the factory now arrested); #47 (a fire at an apparel factory set by a disgruntled business partner); and #65 (a fire at a textile factory in Turkey claimed by a revolutionary Kurdish group (the Children of Fire Initiative [Ateşin Çocukları İnisiyatifi], affiliated with the Kurdistan Workers’ Party – PKK). This group claimed responsibility for two fires in Turkey in May (see the May report, #74 and 75). Two more cases (3%) resulted from human error: #51 (a fire in garbage stored up against an outer wall of a distribution centre for shoes); and #63 (started by farmers near a factory letting of fireworks to drive away birds). The three (4%) ‘others’ were: #5 (a forest fire that spread to raw material stored outside a factory); and #50 and #60 (both thought to be caused by lightning strike). Basic information on each incident is provided in the data table below. Section 3 provides full details and links to original sources. 2. Data table FIRES IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY SUPPLY CHAIN, JUNE 2020 # Country/City Type Details Name Casualties Date 1 Bangladesh, Hair goods Criminal gang set fire to the Evergreen None 27-Jun-20 Nilphamari (wigs, factory. Fire units worked Factory (BD) reported costumes, for several hours to put out (Evergreen etc.) the fire. Caused by arson Products Group) 2 Bangladesh, Textile 6 fire trucks attended; blaze Etasia None 20-Jun-20 Cumilla (interlinings) controlled. Cause unknown Interlinings reported 3 Bangladesh, Apparel Fire started due to Mum’s [মা] None 07-Jun-20 Bogra (tailor’s electricity wire on workshop Tailor workshop) roof. Locals put out the fire 4 Bangladesh, Bobbin Fire brigade doused fire in Biplob None 02-Jun-20 Khulna 40 minutes Enterprise reported 5 Brazil, Textile Forest fire spread to raw None 21-Jun-20 Mairinque materials stored outside - factory fence. Nine fire tenders were mobilised 6 Brazil, Nova Shoe A fierce fire, 3 units Atacadão do 2 dead, 5 16-Jun-20 Serrana mobilised. Gas cylinder Chinelo injured (one explosion suspected seriously) Page 3 of 16 7 Brazil, Estância Handbag Firefighters controlled a fire None 11-Jun-20 Velha that started in a waste reported - storage area. Cause unknown 8 Brazil, Apparel Factory was operating when None 11-Jun-20 Apucarana fire started & removed - fabric and machines. Cause unknown 9 Brazil, Siqueira Apparel Fire caused structural Pro Tork None 08-Jun-20 Campos (motorcycle) damage; 6 hours to extinguish. Short circuit suspected 10 Bulgaria, Veliko Textile (2nd The fire burned 30 tonnes of None 08-Jun-20 Tarnovo hand 2nd hand clothes; 5 fire units - clothing) attended. Cause unknown 11 China, Shaoxing Chemical Smoke visible for several Zhejiang None 05-Jun-20 (silicone) km; firefighters extinguished Hengyecheng in about 2 hours Silicone 12 Egypt, Obour Textile Major fire requiring 5 trucks. None 24-Jun-20 Fabric and machines - destroyed. Cause unknown 13 Egypt, El Cotton mill Firefighters managed to None 23-Jun-20 Maḥalla control the fire; caused by - reported short circuit 14 Egypt, Dakahlia Textile (knit) Fire in a waste storage 1 injured 17-Jun-20 warehouse. 4 units - (hospitalised) attended. Cause unknown 15 Egypt, Giza Mask Fire was thought to be in None 14-Jun-20 chemical factory, but - investigators discovered it was an illegal mask factory 16 Egypt, Cairo Apparel Large factory fire brought None 09-Jun-20 under control by - firefighters. Factory building adjacent to residential area 17 France, Warehouse The fire covered the city None 05-Jun-20 Aubervilliers (clothing) centre in thick smoke; 50 reported firefighters mobilised & - nearest homes evacuated. Incident is under investigation 18 India, Ludhiana Textile Goods and machinery Sahib Synthetics None 30-Jun-20 gutted; 6 fire tenders deployed for 4 hours. Short circuit suspected 19 India, Valsad Rubber 8 units and 25 firefighters Dashmesh None 26-Jun-20 (reclaimed) took 8 hours to douse fire. Rubber 25 employees on site Industries evacuated 20 India, Amroha Cotton A night-time fire was None 25-Jun-20 factory attended by several units; - reported short circuit suspected 21 India, Meerut Weaving 6 fire units took over 2 Jai Guru Dev None 25-Jun-20 (handloom) hours to bring blaze under Printer reported control; goods destroyed. Short circuit blamed 22 India, Sanand Apparel Massive fire engulfing entire Unicharm None 24-Jun-20 (diapers, etc) factory; 270 firefighters Industries reported onsite for at least 8 hours. 572 workers safety evacuated. Short circuit suspected Page 4 of 16 23 India, Shahabad Apparel Fire burned factory None 23-Jan-20 machinery. Short circuit - reported suspected 24 India, Meerut Textile Fierce fire took hours to Sharda None 21-Jun-20 (home, rugs) extinguish and resulted in reported significant damage. Short circuit suspected 25 India, Ludhiana Apparel Heavy fire at 2-storey Hiphop None 17-Jun-20 factory.

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