© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd INTRODUCING BERLIN

The dramatic canopy of the Sony Center (p111) THOMAS WINZ

Berlin is a scene-stealing, head-turning combo of glamour and grit, teeming with top museums and galleries, grand opera and guerrilla clubs, gourmet temples and ethnic snack shacks. Over the past decade, Berlin’s become a pillar of the fashion, art, design and music worlds, not just keeping up with but setting new trends. A global influx of creatives has turned it into a cauldron of cultural cool that’s often compared to New York in the ’80s. What draws them is Berlin’s legendary climate of tolerance, openness and experimentation infused with an edgy undercurrent that gives this ‘eternally unfinished’ city its street cred. All this trendiness is a triumph for a town that’s long been in the crosshairs of history: Berlin staged a revolution, was headquartered by fascists, bombed to bits, ripped in half and finally reunited – and that was just in the 20th century! Famous landmarks such as the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and what’s left of the Berlin Wall are like a virtual 3-D textbook in a city where you’ll find history staring you in the face every time you turn a corner. Perhaps it’s because of its heavy historical burden that Berlin is throwing itself into tomorrow with such contagious energy. At times the entire city seems to be bubbling over into one huge party. Cafes are jammed at all hours, drinking is a religious rite and clubs host their scenes of frenzy and hedonism until the wee hours. Sleep? Fuhgeddabout it!

2 BERLIN LIFE Berlin is a sprawling city but key areas ‘Where New York might be are pleasingly compact and human-scale. Traffic flows freely, public transportation the Big Apple, Berlin is the is brilliant, you can walk without fear at night, clubs have no velvet ropes and Big Appetite’ your restaurant bill would only buy you a starter back home. But try to put your finger on the pulse of Berlin and you’ll find that, much like the mysteri- ous movements on a Ouija board, that pulse is already moving on to another location. Today’s downtrodden neighbourhood becomes tomorrow’s dream of wide-eyed students and artists, young entrepreneurs and, eventually, developers. The city’s famously low rents are slowly dis- appearing, office buildings displace beloved riverside party venues, and ‘loft-living’ is the new buzzword. Well-established nightlife spots are being forced into closing by noise-sensitive new neighbours lacking the tolerance that attracted them to Berlin in the first place. On the economic front, there are some slivers of sunlight on the horizon. Between 2005 and 2010 almost 500 companies moved to Berlin, creating 21,000 new jobs while investing €1.7 billion. Still, the dreams of those who shape the future collide with one inescapable fact: the city is broke. The unemployment rate is among the highest in Germany, the city debt hovers at a staggering €60 billion and the ambitious reconstruction of the royal city palace had to be postponed by at least four years for lack of funds. Still, the band plays on. In a city that is truly 24/7, the creativity, sensory overload and hedon- ism roar with unapologetic abandon. Where New York might be the Big Apple, Berlin is the Big Appetite and the hunger for experimentation and challenge is rarely sated. It’s a city where you can fairly hear and feel the collision between past and future, what is possible and what is realistic, the cultural hopes and the culture clashes between people who’ve joined together from around the globe in one big experiment. Berlin may be losing some of its famously raw edge, but at least for now, it’s in no danger of selling its soul.

Enjoy the outdoors at Mauerpark (p196), with dining, drinking, entertainment and Berlin’s best flea market DAVID PEEVERS 3 HIGHLIGHTS

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MARTIN MOOS ICONIC BERLIN

In Berlin, the past is always present. Strolling around, you can’t help but pass by legendary sights that take you back to the days of Prussian glory, the Nazi-era nadir, the Cold War chill or the euphoria of reunification. Like a 3-D textbook, only better.

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JAN HALASKA/ALAMY DAVID PEEVERS 4  

DAVID PEEVERS RICHARD NEBESKY  Brandenburger Tor Take in the famous Brandenburg Gate, a backdrop for presidential speeches, Pink Floyd concerts and World Cup soccer public viewing parties (p81)  Reichstag Stand in awe of history at Germany’s political power nexus (p75)  Berlin Wall Don’t miss the most famous Berlin landmark. Only, where is it? (p82)  Fernsehturm Get high at Germany’s tallest structure, the TV Tower (p95)  Schloss Charlottenburg Try to avoid palace envy at this pretty Prussian power display (p122)  Neue Synagoge Visit the beautiful beacon of Berlin’s Jewish renaissance (p102) 

KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI 5  Beate Uhse Erotikmuseum Learn a trick or two at this arty and educational space (p130)  Legendary liberalism Get ready for the classic ‘boy meets girl’ story. Or maybe The Crying Game? (p260)  Christopher Street Day Join the throngs out and about at Berlin’s gay party of the year (p262)

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RICHARD NEBESKY NAUGHTY BERLIN

Las Vegas may hold the title as the world’s ‘sin city’ but Berlin is no slouch in the libido department. Dive in and be as nice or nasty as you want, pretend to be someone else entirely or live out your most frisky fantasies.

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DAVID PEEVERS DAVID PEEVERS 6 ON THE WATERFRONT

Boasting more bridges than Venice, Berlin is shaped by water and there are plenty of opportunities for taking a cooling dip, sipping cocktails on a sandy beach or going on an aquatic sightseeing tour.

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KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI  Boat cruises Soak up the sun as you drift gently past Berlin’s finest landmarks (p311)  Beach bars Enjoy a cold drink at an urban beach – summers wouldn’t be the same without them (p224)  Badeschiff Cool off in summer, heat up in winter at this unique barge-turned-pool (p147)

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DAVID PEEVERS DAVID PEEVERS 7 

KARL JOHAENTGES/LOOK-FOTO AFTER DARK

Berlin’s your oyster when the moon’s high in the sky. Knock back tasty libations at dive bars or designer dens, hobnob with hipsters at hot-stepping clubs, get your kicks in a coterie of cabarets or point your highbrow compass towards the opera.

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RICHARD NEBESKY KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI 8  

DAVID PEEVERS RICHARD NEBESKY  Freischwimmer Grab a cocktail and catch a cool evening breeze at this boathouse- turned-bar (p225)  Clubs Put on your dancing shoes and party till dawn and beyond (p231)  Berliner Philharmonie Indulge your ears with symphonic strains in an iconic venue (p250)  Life is a cabaret Flash back to Roaring Twenties glamour at Bar Jeder Vernunft (p238)  Drinking dens From trashy dives to cocktail temples, explore the endless variety of booze parlours to reach an altered state (p219)  Tempodrom Take in a rock concert or sporting event at this tent-shaped temple of entertainment (p237)

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KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI 9  East Side Gallery Check out the longest Berlin Wall remnant – it’s also the world’s biggest outdoor canvas (p149) Luftbrückendenkmal Pay tribute to a true ‘triumph of the will’ in the age of democracy (p145)  Checkpoint Charlie Stand in a hot spot of the Cold War (p144)

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GUY MOBERLY RED BERLIN

Soviet spies, CIA operatives, border guards, spectacular escapes, military standoffs – Berlin was ground zero of the Cold War, the Wall a tangible metaphor for a world divided by politics and ideology. Prepare for goose bumps when facing the ghosts of the past.

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LEE FOSTER MARTIN MOOS 10 GREEN BERLIN

It’s a jungle out there, with parks, forests, lakes and rivers swathed across one third of the metropolis. Fantastic outdoor spots lurk in every neighbourhood, making it a snap to take a break from the tourist track and get a dose of asphalt-free exercise.

 Wannsee Opt for a natural high while lying low at the Wannsee (p165)  Tiergarten Picnic among beech trees, rhododendrons and statues in Berlin’s central park (p117)

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BERNHARD LIMBERGER/GETTY DAVID BORLAND BERLIN RITUALS

You too can be ‘ein Berliner’! Get that wicked little tattoo, spend hours over breakfast, watch the world on parade while perched in a cafe or beer garden, or scarf up Euro icons at a fabulous flea market. C’mon, join Team Berlin.

 Cafe scene in Prenzlauer Berg Watch the world on parade over cakes and cappuccinos (p228)  Flohmarkt am Mauerpark Indulge in a spot of urban archaeology at Berlin’s best flea market (p196)

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GUY MOBERLY DAVID PEEVERS 11 DIVINE DINING

Berlin’s cuisine scene is as varied, fun and adventurous as the city itself. Hunker down for plates of hearty German food, report to top toques for the latest in concept cuisine, sample global plates in exotic locales or simply get your doner kebab fast-food fix.

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IMAGE BROKER  Currywurst Take a bite! If there ever was a fast food with cult status, this would be it (p199)  Top doners Scratch your fast-food itch… And the Döner Oscar goes to: Schlemmerbuffet! Applause! (p205)  Grill Royal Rub shoulders with the rich and famous at this elegant waterside fine-diner 

(p203) DAVID PEEVERS

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ANDRES LABES 12 THE AUTHOR

Andrea Schulte-Peevers in Berlin and provided I’m not hung over Andrea has travelled from the night before… But let’s say I got the distance to the a good night’s sleep and have been tickled moon and back in awake by bright sunshine – perfect! I wake up her visits to over 60 my husband David, we hop on our bikes and countries and car- head down to Anna Blume (p228) for a leisurely ries her dog-eared breakfast. I kiss him goodbye, then pedal passport like a badge through beautiful Prenzlauer Berg to meet of honour. Her fasci- up with my best friend Uli and her eight-year- nation with Berlin’s old boy Matt. We’ve promised to take him to mystique goes back Legoland Discovery Centre (p111), where we to her first stay in spend an hour getting acquainted with giant the summer of 1989, a few months shy of giraffes, dragons and knights all made from the Wall’s collapse. During many return trips those little plastic pieces. Matt loves it. And she has watched Berlin shed its Cold-War- strangely, we do too. Matt needs his nap, so I era brooding and blossom into an vibrant, head back to Prenzlauer Berg, stopping at W- creative, seductive and confident metropolis. Imbiss (p217) for a quick naan pizza for lunch. I Born and raised in Germany and educated spend the early part of the afternoon foraging in London and at UCLA, Andrea has built for treasure at the Flohmarkt am Mauerpark a career on writing about her native country (Mauerpark flea market; p196), then break for for nearly two decades. She’s authored or con- cappuccino at Mauersegler (p228) before am- tributed to more than 40 Lonely Planet titles, bling over to the park’s little amphitheatre including the first edition of this guide as well where the insanely popular Bearpit Karaoke as the Berlin Encounter and Germany country (p159) is already in full swing. For an hour or guides. After this trip she’s seriously consid- two I cheer and clap along with the other 2000 ering permanently trading her house in Los folks as Detlev croons and Maurizio moon- Angeles for a sunny apartment in Berlin. walks. The place always puts me in a happy mood, so I arrive with a big smile at the Prater beer garden (p228), where I join some friends ANDREA’S TOP BERLIN DAY for a quick beer and bratwurst before winding As a child I hated Sundays because there was down the day in style with a classical concert nothing to do but stay home and watch TV. in the Spiegelsaal (p250) at Clärchens Ballhaus. Boring! These days, I love Sundays, at least Sundays don’t get much better than this! LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travellers. They don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage, so you can be sure the advice you’re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popu- lar spots, and off the beaten track. They don’t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They per- sonally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

15 GETTING STARTED

No matter whether you’re a backpacker, a three-button suit, a cocky jetsetter, a trendy urban nomad or travelling with the tots, you’ll find all your needs and expectations met in Berlin. Room and travel reservations are a good idea between June and early September and around major holidays and trade fairs year-round, but otherwise you can keep your advance planning to a minimum (but do have a look at the boxed text on p21). Whatever you do, don’t overbook yourself. Berlin is definitely a city that rewards spontaneity.

GETTING STARTED STARTED GETTING WHEN TO GO Berlin has a continental climate, which gener- ally translates into scorching summers and freezing winters, although in recent years global warming has turned such time-tested BEST FESTIVALS

WHEN TO GO rules on their heads. In other words: the  Berlinale (opposite) weather is unpredictable. So whenever you  Ber-Mu-Da (p20) visit, check the forecast and pack accord-  Christopher Street Day (p262) ingly. Rain or shine, May, June, September  Internationale Tourismus Börse (opposite) and October are generally the months to see  Karneval der Kulturen (p18) the city at its best and sop up local colour by the bucketful. That’s when festivals, street fairs and cultural events of all stripes are in to fashion, porn to travel. Major events such full swing and temps are pleasant enough for as Christopher Street Day (p262), Karneval der Kul- chilling in outdoor cafes and beer gardens turen (Carnival of Cultures) and New Year’s or for skipping around Berlin’s many parks, Eve bring hundreds of thousands of revellers forests and other natural assets. to town, filling hotels, restaurants and venues Summers essentially bring a major popula- to capacity. Berlin’s tourist office (www.visitberlin.de) tion exchange: Berliners leave town for hotter has an events calendar and can also help you climes, while tourists, especially from southern book tickets. The listings magazines Tip (www Europe, flock to Berlin to escape the heat. This .tip-berlin.de, in German) and Zitty (www.zitty is the time of outdoor anything: concerts, plays, .de, in German) are the best sources for up-to- opera, parties, beach bars, cinema and so on. the-minute events listings. For events primarily In winter, days are short (the December sun, geared towards the GLBT community, see the if there is any, sets around 3.30pm) and the Gay & Lesbian Berlin chapter, p257. entire city is often gloomy and cold, so life moves pretty much indoors. This is the time January to slow down and make an in-depth study of BERLIN FASHION WEEK museums and galleries, attend concerts and %6290 0850; www.berlin-fashionweek.de plays or warm up for a couple of hours over Designers, buyers and media descend upon hot latte in a cosy cafe. The best winter month Berlin to check out the latest streetwear, by far is December, when the city is bathed in green fashions and bodywear at such a decorative sea of lights and the air is redolent fashion fairs as Mercedes-Benz Fashion of mulled wine and gingerbread scents wafting Week, Bread & Butter, Premium and Bright. from the city’s many Christmas markets. Hotel Some events are open to the public. rates are pretty much constant year-round.

INTERNATIONALE GRÜNE WOCHE FESTIVALS & EVENTS %303 80; www.gruenewoche.de Berlin is very much a party town with a busy The week-long International Green Week, year-round calendar of concerts, street parties, which is a consumer fair for food, agriculture sports events, trade shows and festivals cele- and gardening, is a great excuse for gorging brating everything from film to fetish, music on exotic morsels from around the world. 16 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO 17 , provides five five , provides (p282) boss Daniel Barenboim Barenboim boss Daniel (p253) and other locations, with many with many locations, and other 2838 6464; www.gallery-weekend-berlin.de 0331-620 2780; www.sehsuechte.de 2035 4555; www.staatsoper-berlin.org MAY DAY MADNESS DAY MAY Not for those of a nervous disposition, May Day (1 May) sees Berlin’s central districts and (Kreuzberg Berg especially) become the venue of Prenzlauer large-scale anti-globalisation, anti-capitalist, anti- whatever Traditionally, right-wing demonstrations. groups schedule their marches for the same day, the police turn out in force and within a couple of hours That means violence, vandalism and chaos. there’s burning vehicles – we only mention this at all so you can stay out of the way. brings the world’s finest conductors,brings the world’s this orchestras to Berlin for soloists and hoedown of gala 10-day, highbrow concerts emphasis on and operas, with an Richardthat brilliant ‘bad boy’ composer Wagner. May BRITSPOTTING www.britspotting.de the the Brits returning It’s hard to imagine of Brit compliment, but this small festival made it into the and Irish flicks that never with Berlin art- is a huge hit multiplexes house buffs. % Join art collectors, critics and other fellow art-ficionados in keeping tabs on the Berlin art hop around 40 on a free scene a Held over of the city’s best galleries. three-day or April weekend, usually in late early May. SEHSÜCHTE % student film festival, Berlin’s international now based in Potsdam (p252) FESTTAGE % Staatsoper WEEKEND GALLERY festival. Screenings take Babylon at place Screenings festival. days of the most random, experimental, and occasionally pretentious alternative cinematic efforts around. writers, directors, producers and actors producers in directors, writers, attendance.

2548 9100; www.maerzmusik.de 303 80; www.itb-berlin.de 259 200; www.berlinale.de 2474 9761; www.transmediale.de 283 973; www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de283 973;

ACHTUNG BERLIN ACHTUNG www.achtungberlin.de About 70 flicks about Berlin and at least partially produced in the city compete Award at this for the New Berlin Film April % a ‘Music’ or ‘soundscapes’? You decide after festival day at March Music, a contemporary of celebrating a boundary-pushing palette sounds, from full orchestral symphonies to many of them new or experimental recitals, commissioned. MAERZMUSIK % a virtual trip around the globe at the Take expo travel international world’s largest it’s trade- than 10,000 exhibitors); (more only during the week but open to the public at the weekend. INTERNATIONALE TOURISMUS INTERNATIONALE BÖRSE March % draws film festival Berlin’s international critics and the stars, starlets, directors, celebrities for two weeks world’s A-to-Z-list and glamour partiesof screenings around a lucky ones go home with town. The lesbigay Bear, while top Golden or Silver Screenings awarded the Teddy. flicks are sell out, so book early. often BERLINALE February Digital media artDigital gets full bandwidth at this that also investigates festival progressive shape today’s technologies how digital society and artistic endeavours. TRANSMEDIALE % LANGE NACHT DER MUSEEN DER NACHT LANGE % meets entertainment on the last Culture to 100 when up of January Saturday keepmuseums until at doors open their people Shuttle buses ferry least midnight. sociable affair It’s a truly between venues. family. the entire and fun for 21 Jun (cabaret-type artists) take over (cabaret-type 206 2673; www.gauklerfest.de, in German 6576 3560; www.bierfestival-berlin.de, in 6290 0850; www.berlin-fashionweek.de 01805-600 121; www.classicopenair.de 4171 5289; www.lafetedelamusique.com, in 0176-9688 6279; www.sandsation.de BERLINER GAUKLERFEST % artistes, puppeteers, Comedians, magicians, clowns, dancers, jugglers and other Gaukler August BERLINER BIERFESTIVAL % Who needs Oktoberfest when you can have your the ‘world’s longest beer garden’? Pick from nearly 300 breweries poison from over 100 countries along 2km of Karl-Marx-Allee. July WEEK BERLIN FASHION % designers present Local and international next fashions during the year’s spring summer edition of Berlin’s fashion fair. CLASSIC OPEN AIR GENDARMENMARKT % concerts alfresco – from days, five Five opera to pop – delight an adoring crowd the regal on bleachers before hunkered No ticket? No backdrop of the Konzerthaus. problem. Just bring a beer and eavesdrop with the penniless masses outside the flimsy canvas enclosure. FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE DE LA MUSIQUE FÊTE % Summer starts thanks with good vibrations concerts free of this during to hundreds online that first came festival global music in 1982. in Paris SANDSATION % sand takesA fantasy world built from shape startingfor eight summer weeks in early these ain’t than 6m high, more At June. Music, your little brother’s sandcastles! keep things events cocktails and children’s dynamic. renowned, young and experimental and experimental young renowned, products new to present together creatives trends. future and discuss German German , which originated , which originated (p105) for details about Christopher Street for details about Christopher Street

p262 5301 4888; www.dmy-berlin.com 243 4590; www.berlinbiennale.de 3038 6006; www.ila-berlin.com 250 025; www.allnationsfestival.de, in German250 025; www.allnationsfestival.de, 2548 9269; www.theatertreffen-berlin.de 6097 7022; www.karneval-berlin.de6097 7022;

the first Biennale back in 1998. % ‘City of Design’, Unesco-designated As it’s only natural that Berlin should host which brings this annual design festival, DMY INTERNATIONAL DESIGN INTERNATIONAL DMY FESTIVAL This biennial curated forum for curated biennial This art international contemporary explores young artistsartistic and invites to trends showcase their work in various locations One around town for about eight weeks. for is the KW Institute of the main venues ArtContemporary BERLIN BIENNALE % Zeppelins to fighter planes, gliders to to fighter Zeppelins balloons and jet liners – if it flies, it’ll probably be at this huge international aerospace exhibition and air show held two years (next2012). time in every BERLIN AIR SHOW (ILA) % Take a trip around the world on a single a trip around the world on a single Take or so Berlin-based day when a dozen embassies open their doors to foreign countries with their respective promote food, drink, music and talks. ALL NATIONS FESTIVAL ALL NATIONS %

June See The Berlin Theatre Gathering is a three- Berlin Theatre The productionsweek showcase of new and established German- by emerging Germany, Austria language ensembles from and Switzerland. THEATERTREFFEN BERLIN THEATERTREFFEN % KARNEVAL DER KULTUREN KULTUREN DER KARNEVAL % Hill London’s Notting answer to Berlin’s the city’s multicultural celebrates Carnival with parties,tapestry and a fun exotic nosh dancers, dressed parade of flamboyantly DJs, artists and musicians shimmying of Kreuzberg. streets through the Day. lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO 18 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO 19 3 Oct , the Berliner Liste brings , the Berliner Liste (above) (states) in the Ministerial Gardens (states) and other venues around town. around and other venues 01805-4470; www.jazzland.de, in German 2809 6115; www.berliner-liste.org 3186 0114; www.festival-of-lights.de 2548 9100; www.berlinerfestspiele.de2548 9100; 3038 2076; www.art-forum-berlin.com together young galleries and emerging and emerging together young galleries artists shots of the with the hot scene. international TAG DER DEUTSCHEN EINHEIT DER DEUTSCHEN TAG on the Raise a toast to reunification with German national holiday celebrated partiesstreet town – from the across to Gate) Tor (Brandenburg Brandenburger Rathaus (town hall). the Rotes JAZZ IN DEN MINISTERGÄRTEN % Once a year in October, the permanent German (offices) of seven representations Länder near Potsdamer Platz open their doors area to the public for a night of jazz. PORN FILM FESTIVAL www.pornfilmfestivalberlin.de porn, Japanese porn, indie porn, Vintage sci-fi porn – the ‘Berlinale’ of sex brings skin flicks out of the smut alternative corner and onto the big screen. BERLINER LISTE % time as the ArtHeld around the same Forum OF LIGHTS FESTIVAL % For two weeks, Berlin isn’t only about sightseeing but also about ‘lightseeing’. Historic Fernsehturm landmarks such as the (TV Tower), the Berliner Dom and with sparkle Gate the Brandenburg illuminations, projections and fireworks. MUSIKFEST BERLIN MUSIKFEST % choirs, orchestras, World-renowned conductors together for come and soloists of concertstwo weeks at the Philharmonie (p250) October BERLIN ART FORUM % in art out what’s hot well- at this Find contemporary established international art brings together leading fair that galleries, collectors and the merely curious. (Club Night), when €14 buys Night), when €14 buys (Club .

p17 2787 8620; www.literaturfestival.com 3012 8810; www.berlin-marathon.com 2474 9777; www.tanzimaugust.de, in German2474 9777; www.tanzimaugust.de, 283 973; www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de 3069 6924; www.ifa-berlin.de

Dozens of authors from all corners of the of authors from Dozens the power of the pen world celebrate public through readings, with the literary workshops and events. % INTERNATIONALES INTERNATIONALES LITERATURFESTIVAL www.berlin-music-week.de headliners during this tomorrow’s Catch celebration of global music. week-long trade show and the Berlin Popkomm The line-up the DJs and bands are of Festival for Bring serious stamina main events. Clubnacht BERLIN MUSIC WEEK entry to 40 dance clubs. % Sweat it out with the other 50,000 runners or just cheer ‘em on during Germany’s race, which has seen nine biggest street set since 1977. world records BERLIN MARATHON September Step out gracefully to this international to this international out gracefully Step attracts that loose-dance festival limbed talent and highly experimental the globe. from around choreography TANZ IM AUGUST IM AUGUST TANZ % % event; summer edition of the January The see LANGE NACHT DER MUSEEN LANGE NACHT % will want out what gadgets everyone Find international for Christmas at this huge Messe. consumer electronics fair at ICC INTERNATIONALE INTERNATIONALE FUNKAUSSTELLUNG Relax! It’s not what you think but simplyRelax! It’s not demonstration. antifascist your average or risk not fitting in. to wear black Make sure FUCKPARADE www.fuckparade.org Schinkelplatz on Unter den Linden for 10 for Linden den Schinkelplatz Unter on August. days in early merry . p230 €0.40 €6.30 €2.80 €7-10 €3 €15 €5-15 €6-8 €1.38 €1.50 Of course, how much you end up spend- you how much Of course, Petrol (1L) Petrol Public-transport day pass Souvenir T-shirt Watermelon Man HOW MUCH? HOW Bottle of water at supermarket Cinema ticket Currywurst Glass of beer (0.3L) Latte macchiato Nightclub entry INTERNET RESOURCES out the Do your homework and check hit the ground so you can following sites to Berlin.running when you get Websites on covered with events listings are and what experiences you wish to have. The wish to have. and what experiences you two daily tab hotel, for a stay in a midrange transportation,sit-down meals, using public on sightseeingspending some money and be somewhere and clubs should going to bars travelling between (per person, €90 and €140 survival, mere as an adult couple). For you’ll €60 per day, but this will €30 to need to budget you sleeping dorms, eating in in hostel have your stands or preparing or at fast-food cafes own meals, and limiting your entertainment. a high roller, BerlinOf course, if you’re has Michelin-starred luxury hotels, of no shortage to help you part and fancy bars restaurants with your money. COSTS & MONEY COSTS used $12 glasses to £5 pints, If you’re of a pleas- in for you’re or €8 lattes, cabernet ant surprise visiting Berlin, when West- the the can get you capitalern European where Berlin average Your your euro. most bang for in to €108 €76 compared room costs hotel restaurants, In €111 in Paris. London and buy would merely a main course the price of an appetiser get- And in Moscow or Vienna. and is a snap with the excellent ting around public transportation easy-to-understand priced and plentiful and reasonably system cabs. you are traveller of ing depends on what kind

6 Dec 31 Dec (Map p128) . . (Map pp140-1) (Map p96) ) for wild and sweaty dance ) for wild and sweaty dance p231

2548 9100; www.jazzfest-berlin.de

and Alexanderplatz Ring in the new year hugging complete complete Ring in the new year hugging guzzling strangers, cooing at fireworks, bubbly straight from the bottle and main action is The generally misbehaving. Tor, but pros and purists at Brandenburger watching the city light up from may prefer or in Viktoriapark hill atop the Kreuzberg from Breitscheidplatz SILVESTER SILVESTER On St Nicholas’ Day children leave their their leave On St Nicholas’ Day children sweets shoes outside their door to receive been nice, and a stone if they’ve if they’ve this custom been naughty. Eventually Christmas’ more into Father developed yearly rounds, but in Germany international attached to the original they seem pretty – all kinds of clubs hold Nikolaus parties, with costumed St Nicks. complete NIKOLAUS NIKOLAUS This top-rated jazz festival has doo-wopped jazz festival top-rated This and fresh in Berlin since 1964 and presents of performancesbig-time talent in dozens town. all over JAZZFEST BERLIN % Pick up shimmering ornaments or get up shimmering Pick of at dozens smashed on mulled wine yuletide markets throughout December held in such locales as Breitscheidplatz CHRISTMAS MARKETS CHRISTMAS www.visitberlin.de parties. It will all culminate with a huge with a huge parties. It will all culminate airport. at Tempelhof festival A celebration of electronicA celebration dance music, Days) is a new club BerMuDa (Berlin Music world’s best DJs to that brings the festival Cookies, (Berghain, the best of Berlin clubs Weekend etc – see the Nightlife Watergate, chapter BER-MU-DA BER-MU-DA www.bermuda-berlin.de November & December November YOU BERLIN YOU in Germanwww.you.de, Stay ahead sports, fashion, of the beauty curves largest Europe’s at and lifestyle with concerts, TV fair, complete youth live casting agents. roving tapings and lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED COSTS & MONEY 20 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED SUSTAINABLE BERLIN 21 ,

for (p132) p304 (p203) , Chorin the envi- in Dresden, in Dresden, (p79) and , Grill Royal (p294) (p201) to get the lowdown on to get p303 , Sammlung Boros , Sammlung Boros (www.tip-berlin.de, in German) (www.tip-berlin.de, and and Semperoper , a recreated medieval village medieval village , a recreated , a working farm that grows only (p253) Tip (www.visitberlin.de), which comes with which (www.visitberlin.de), . (p293) (p164) (p163) p302 There are few major cities with as many major few are There Getting around Berlin is a snap thanks to When it comes to sightseeing, build your tourist office ronment. Turn to organic produce. Nearby is the Museumsdorf produce. organic Düppel sheep and pig staff endangered where breed In rye. species and grow historic strains of is the Ökowerk the Grunewald Forest your car is not a polluting klunker (seeyour car is not a polluting klunker if in Berlin, better, do as Berliners Even more). Double brownie around by bicycle. do and get points: it’s good for your heart sites the major than itinerary around more hot spots. Getand impacted out into the leafy of cycle the course suburbs, swim in a lake, the Berlin or Wall, hit the trail in a forest are pack a picnic and head to a park. There also several attractions with an eco-angle. Dahlem, for suburb of The southwestern Domäne instance, has the Freilichtmuseum Dahlem green and open spaces as Berlin. Parks, gar- and open spaces as Berlin.green Parks, reserves nature and forests rivers, dens, lakes, to and contribute its landscape characterise Berlin Keeping green life. the high quality of your trash or refill- isn’t just about sorting is bottle (the tap here ing that water water ways to plenty of are fine); there perfectly sustainable. For visit more your entire make to Berlin how to get on suggestions without out the boxed hopping on an aeroplane, check on text is cheap, which public transportation system, efficient and clean. So don’t even think about by car, especially since parking coming here 2008 Since 1 January and scarce. is expensive that prove to you also need a special sticker the city’s well-developed and comprehensive the city’s well-developed and comprehensive renting two-wheelers. two-wheelers. renting , Staatsoper Unter den Linden , Staatsoper Unter (p250) and Historisches Grünes Gewölbe (p289) (www.museumsportal-berlin.de) . For other restaurants, calling a day ahead calling a day . For other restaurants, or even in the day is usually sufficient. earlier (www.berlin-hidden-places.com) (www.berlin-hidden-places.com) (www.3d-stadtmodell-berlin.de) Take Take (www.3d-stadtmodell-berlin.de) (www.visitberlin.de) Excellent, jam- (www.visitberlin.de) (p203) (lonelyplanet.com) The Thorn Tree travel (lonelyplanet.com) The Thorn Tree (http://berlin.unlike.net) Hip guide with (www.berlin.de) Official government site (www.exberliner.net) Online version of Berlin’s (www.exberliner.net) (www.zitty.de, and events in German) in Berlin. One week should also be enough for the latest openings, festivals One week before you go, check the online versions of the listings magazines go, check the online versions of you One week before

Tickets to the Berliner Philharmonie to the Berliner Philharmonie Tickets Monastery’s summer concertsMonastery’s summer touringand for major musical acts often booked sell out and should be same is true for key as early as possible. The usually matches, though, are season as the Germansoccer games such to regular in late May. soccer league final Tickets day. available on game Zitty time for weekend dinner reservations or upmarket at trendy such as Cookies restaurants Cream or Reinstoff

ADVANCE PLANNINGADVANCE ahead, months or three About two Berlin’s the website of check a searchable database of major upcoming special events major upcoming database of a searchable of buying tickets you the option and also gives using a credit card. Performing-artsonline calendars and bookingvenues usually have their own facilities. Awesome searchable site that lists every museum in town open on Monday, along with handy lists on which ones are open late. and which are free which are forum is a great place to pick the brains of other travellers. forum is a great Ideas for getting off the touristtrack. packed, official tourist-office site; also lets you make room and ticket reservations languages. in all major a virtual journey through central Berlin with this Google Earth-powered 3-D model of 44,000 buildings; the top detail and four of them (the in greater covered 40 are Reichstag, Hauptbahnhof, Sony Center and Olympic Stadium) can even be ‘entered’. with information on culture, transport,with information on culture, the economy and politics. global environment and local economies, cul- and ecosystems. tures it can bring. But we also encourage you to it can bring. But we also encourage your visit on both the consider the impact of responsibly and enjoy the magic of independ- and enjoy the magic of responsibly is growing at a jaw-dropping Travel ent travel. and we still firmly believe in the benefits rate, Since our inception in 1973, Lonely Planet lightly, travel to tread readers has encouraged SUSTAINABLE BERLIN SUSTAINABLE Museumsportal Berlin Lonely Planet ExBerliner City of Berlin Berlin Unlike Berlin Tourism Berlin Hidden Places 3D Stadtmodell up-to-the-minute reviews and happenings. savvy get plugged right English-language mag to help you into the scene.

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lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED SUSTAINABLE BERLIN 22