THE Hexagonal Tower about 1900 FORT ^^^^tr^ 4^->^^L^ ^^i^i2. SNELLING From MILITARY POST to HISTORIC SITE RUSSELL W. FRIDLEY FORT SNELLING is perhaps the most for a host of the nation's leaders. As a mfli­ significant landmark in the entire history tary outpost on the remote American fron­ of Minnesota and the Northwest. Its estab­ tier. Fort Snelling served as the nucleus lishment in 1819 at the junction of the from which stemmed much of the settle­ Minnesota and Mississippi rivers radically ment of Minnesota and the Northwest. changed the course of events in the upper Yet it is curious that a spot so rich in Mississippi Valley. Before its erection, the history should not have been adequately Minnesota country had been a vast wilder­ preserved at some point in its one-hundred- ness inhabited by Sioux and Chippewa In­ and- thirty-seven-year existence. Time and dians and claimed at various times by progress have made serious inroads into Spain, France, and Great Britain. The what once seemed an almost indestructible establishment of the post effectively ex­ military installation. Today, two sturdy tended for the first time the authority of stone bufldings — the Round and Hexag­ the young American nation over the region, onal towers—constitute the principal re­ paved the way for white settlement, and mains of the original fort.^ set in motion the transformation of a vast Although the walls and the other build­ Indian territory into an American state. ings have long since disappeared, the idea Soldiers like Zachary Taylor and Jefferson of preserving the old fort is neither new Davis served at Fort Snelling, and their nor peculiar to our day. For almost a cen­ later fame enriched its traditions and dram­ tury Americans, and particularly Minne­ atized its importance as a training ground sotans, have lamented the gradual decay MR. FRIDLEY is director of the Minnesota His­ ' Portions of two other buildings, the officers' quar­ ters and the commandant's house, also exist. Although torical Society. He has taken an active part in these structures have been partially destroyed and recent efforts to preserve the .site of historic old considerably altered, certain interior features of the Fort Snelling. original buildings may still be discerned. 178 MINNESOTA History and disappearance of this famous land­ THE SITE of Fort Snefling was acquired mark. Since the Civfl War there has been from the Sioux Indians in 1805 by Lieu­ an unmistakable growth in appreciation of tenant Zebulon M. Pike and was included the site's historical importance. Various in the general area that he suggested for an plans for developing the area that either American military post. Before that time, endangered the stone towers or substan­ an Indian vfllage occupied the picturesque tially altered the landscape have period­ spot overlooking the two river valleys. In ically revived interest in the fort's heritage. 1819 troops under the command of Colonel From time to time, threats to the integrity Henry Leavenworth arrived to start con­ of the site have set historically minded struction of a fort. But it did not reafly people to thinking about how it might be begin to take shape until the following year safeguarded. when Colonel Josiah Snelling succeeded Whfle the dominant theme in the story Leavenworth as commandant.- of preserving the old fort has been one of The fort built under Snelling's direction neglect and disappointment, it has been was laid out in the shape of a diamond, broken at various times by individuals and outlined by a wall made of limestone quar­ organizations that have come forward to ried from the banks of the river. Two advance bold and imaginative plans for its preservation. Though none of these plans blockhouses, hexagonal and pentagonal in has been fufly realized, they reflect a con­ shape, overlooked the Minnesota and Mis­ tinuing desire on the part of an increasing sissippi rivers. At the point of the bluff number of people to save what remains of above the junction of the two rivers stood old Fort Snefling for future generations. a round watchtower. Opposite it at the point of the diamond exposed to the open ^Marcus Hansen, Old Fort Snelling, 1819-18.58, 27 prairie stood a lookout, the structure we (Iowa City, 1918). know as the Round Tower. Within the PLAN of the old Fort Snelling area IZOAC>_. COMMISjAKY HEXAfiONAL iT0RenOUS£ TOWER '^;w;;--,«;;;;(;;^;^^v^ Misin esOTA VALLEY December 1956 179 walls were barracks, quarters, and store­ ist literature issued before the Civil War, houses. Many of the early buildings were the scenically located outpost frequently made of hewn logs; these were largely re­ elicited enthusiastic comment from the placed by stone structures by 1830. The newcomer to Minnesota.'* boat landing for the fort was directly be­ Visitors of a century ago were under­ low the end of the bluff. In later years a standably more interested in Fort Snell­ stairway ran up the steep slope, and a ing's scenic and commanding location than wagon road crept slowly up the bank of they were in its brief history. Mrs. Eliza­ the Minnesota River along the stone wall beth F. Eflet, a discerning observer who to enter the fort between the two towers took the "Fashionable Tour'' in 1852, gave that still survive.^ her readers a detailed description of the post and its strategic site. "The distant FROM THE STONE fortress atop the view of Fort Snelling," she wrote, "its flag bluff overlooking the confluence of the gleaming in relief against the sky is star- Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, early vis­ tlingly fine; but the nearer one ... is yet itors viewed a majestic and compelling more imposing. Its white walls and bar- scene, and they were quick to call attention to it and to the vacation possibilities of the CEREMONY at the Round Tower in surrounding area. George Catlin, the fa­ mous painter of American Indian life who visited the fort in 1835, is credited with suggesting a "Fashionable Tour," a trip by steamer up the Mississippi from Rock Is­ land or Galena to the Falls of St. Anthony. The idea caught on quickly, and in the next twenty-five years a stream of visitors made the novel pilgrimage up the river to Min­ nesota.* Before the Civfl War, the Fafls of St. Anthony, climax of the popular excursion up the Mississippi, were the chief tourist attraction in the Minnesota country. Ac­ counts of visitors reveal that Minnehaha Fafls ranked second and Fort Snelling third in capturing the tourists' attention. While the two famous Minnesota cascades def­ initely overshadowed Fort Snefling in tour- ' Hansen, Old Fort Snelling, 73. * Theodore C. Blegen, "The 'Fashionable Tour' on the Upper Mississippi," in Minne.sota History. 20:377- 396 (December, 1939). ^ For examples of contemporary travel literature mentioning these attractions, see John Disturnell, Springs, Water-Falls, Sea-Bathing Resorts, and Moun­ tain Scenery of the United States and Canada, 180- 182 (New York, 1855); J. W. Bond, Minnesota and Its Resources, 37, 149-152, 159 (Chicago, 1856); C, C, Andrews, Minnesota and Dacotah, 40 (Washington, D, C, 1857); Laurence Oliphant, Minnesota and the Far West, 244, 246, 248 (Edinburgh, 1855); and The Neu- World in 1869, pt. 2, p, 39 (London, 1859), 180 MINNESOTA History racks are clearly defined, with other neat road to reach the Mississippi, arrived at buildings in the vicinity; and all around the St. Paul levee in a flotUla of steam­ and beyond lies spread the most magnif­ boats. "No sooner had the boats landed," icent panoramic display on which the eye reported the St. Anthony Express of June ever rested. ... A situation more com­ 10, 1854, "than every vehicle of every kind, manding than that of Fort Snelling as seen description, shape or age . was at once from the Mississippi, can hardly be imag­ seized by the impatient crowd, anxious to ined," said Mrs. Eflet. "Its solid walls rise visit the great points of interest and at­ from the summit of nature's rampart of per­ traction, the Fafls, Minnehaha, and the pendicular rock, more than a hundred feet Fort." The same issue of the Express car­ above the river."" ried a letter, signed "Sentinel," from an Two years later the strong appeal of the anonymous member of the excursion who upper Mississippi country was amply dem­ described the fort as "a Rhine-looking for­ onstrated when approximately a thousand tress." The writer felt, however, that the members of the Rock Island excursion, post was not in good order. There were, he celebrating the completion of the first rail- said, "old hats in the windows and other appearances of neglect." commemorating Pike's visit of 1805. Further evidence of the growing aware­ ness of the fort as a major scenic site on the western frontier was the attention it re­ ceived in The United States Illustrated, an elaborate volume edited by Charles A. Dana and published in 1855. In it, the scenic and romantic qualities that most impressed early visitors to Fort Snelling are aptly summarized. The writer said that the ''scenery around Fort Snelling'' was "of a sublime and impressive character." Then he continued, "About fifty years ago, an Indian camp stood on the bluff, now occu­ pied by Fort Snelling; bare-headed squaws, in deer-skin garments, with papooses cra­ dled on their backs, were paddling their light bark canoes across the river. The Indian wigwams are now replaced by a well-built fort. The whistle of the steamboat, as she passes from Mendota to the Fort, is heard instead of the cry of the painted warrior."'' Guides published during the 1850s lured the immigrant as wefl as the tourist to Minnesota, and gave special attention to Fort Snelling.