THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY

SUMMER 2018

BBQ & ZIN III CHAMBOURCIN THE INS & OUTS OF FERMENTATION THE “G” WINE THE GRUNER ASCENDANCY A LYCHEE FROSE´ TERROIR

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2 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features

4 | Jim Rink 21 | Roger Morris Editor’s Note The Grüner Ascendancy

According to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Park- Last September, I travelled to Vienna to take er was an American poet, writer, critic, part in a new Vinexpo initiative called and satirist, best known for her wit, “Explorer,” whose purpose it is to bring 6 wisecracks and eye for 20th-century selected global wine buyers to an under-ap- urban foibles.” In other words, my kind preciated region or country to meet with its of woman. In this issue, we focus on wine producers, just as the real Vinexpo does three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, on a worldwide scale at its huge, semi-annu- Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. al expositions in Bordeaux and Hong Kong.

6 | Eric Miller BBQ & Zin III 24 | Jim Rink Lychee Frosé — I was working my way back from Mexico last stay frosty this summer winter when it occurred to me that I could turn a long drive into a passionate quest Wine purists may want to look the other 10 if I resolved the Great American Asada way, but there’s a chilling trend — frozen Quandry: Does Zinfandel kick ass with BBQ? rosé or rosé on ice. Leading the charge is Rosé Piscine, the original still French rosé 10 | J. Stephen Casscles specifically made to drink over ice. Chambourcin — a versatile red hybrid 25 | Timothy Post Chambourcin, also known as J.S. 26-205, is Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing? a versatile red wine grape variety that was developed by Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) The ability of wine to express terroir is probably sometime during the 1950s. an oft-debated topic in wine enthusiast circles. Those who promote the 14 | Kristine Austin existence of terroir in wine typically state 14 The Ins and Outs of Fermentation that it is an expression of the soils upon which the grapes are grown, and/or the I’ve been fortunate to work in many attributes of the land. different wineries in many different parts of the world and it has been both confusing 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW and enlightening at the same time. Every 21 Wines to Watch winemaker has a different prideful opinion on the best way to ferment. In her continuing column, Ellen Landis selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any 18 | Michael Schafer, CSW occasion or celebration. The “G” Wine 32 | Jim Rink One of the greatest wines on the planet New or Noteworthy 21 to pair with exotic or spicy food “don’t get no respect” on many wine lists. Traverse City is the small town with big A famous Alsatian winemaker once events in the northwest corner of the characterized Gewürztraminer as “the lower peninsula of Michigan. Liberace of the wine world.”

25 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 50 NO. 2 · SUMMER 2018

Published by The American Wine Society, a non-profit corporation, “A hangover is the wrath of grapes.” PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 — Dorothy Parker Single copies $5.00

Copyright © 2018 by AWS, Inc. ccording to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Parker was an American poet, writer, critic, Reproduction or use of the editorial and satirist, best known for her wit, wisecracks and eye for 20th-century or pictorial content without written A urban foibles.” In other words, my kind of woman. In this issue, we focus on permission is prohibited. three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. Whether Library of Congress Class Number: they are wrathful or not we’ll let Dorothy decide. TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Publisher On the travel front, Eric Miller recently found himself zigging and zagging David Falchek between the Rio Grand and the Atlantic Ocean to answer the simple Editor question: “Does Zinfandel kick a** with BBQ?” In the end, naturally, was Jim Rink Hedonistic Happiness. Contributing Writers Kristine Austin, J. Stephen Casscles, If you’re interested in the ins and outs of fermentation, our very own in-house Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Eric Miller, winemaker Kristine Austin has a little secret: there may not be one “best” way to Roger Morris, Timothy Post, Jim Rink, ferment, but with a little TLC yeast bacteria can be your best friend. Michael Schafer, CSW

Also in this issue, Roger Morris takes a look at an “under-appreciated” grape that Editorial Office is still a rookie on the international wine scene: Grüner Veltliner. Stephen Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive Casscles examines a versatile red hybrid known as Chambourcin and Michael Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 BECOME A Schafer gives us the backstory on “the Liberace of the wine world,” AKA the [email protected] “G” wine, AKA Gewürtraminer. Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing? We continue to examine the topic of terroir, accompanied by return postage. first introduced in the spring issue. In this article, among other things, Timothy Advertising Office Post suggests the source of minerality in wine may be due to fatty acids on the PO Box 889 rock’s surface. Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 As always, we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this issue, (fax) 570.344.4825 executivedirector@ Ellen features wines from Austria, Australia, California, France, New Mexico, americanwinesociety.org Oregon, Spain and Washington. Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range from $12 to $55. Creative | Production 404.925.2677 The Blue Guy, LLC Stay thirsty, [email protected] theblueguy.com

4 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors

wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services Director of Jay Bileti Vice President Educational Services Joe Broski Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel David Falchek AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Leanne Wheeler Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Charles E. Hastings Frank C. Aquilino amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. 1989–1990 2001 Alton L. Long Pamela J. Davey

AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE: • Participation in local chapter activities BECOME A • Participation in local, regional and national events MEMBER • Personalized membership card • Professional Member Website Links and Promotions Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or use this form • AWS Bimonthly Newsletter • AWS vintage charts I want to join the AWS I want to give an AWS Gift Membership to: • Wine Judge Certification Program • National Wine Tasting Project • Winemaking competitions Last Name First Name Middle Initial • AWS Wine Competition Discounts • Discounts from wineries and other AWS partners Street Address City/State/Zip Code Check Membership type: Phone E-mail Individual $49.00 This Gift Membership is from: Household (2 family members-same address) $62.00 Professional (includes plaque) $99.00 Last Name First Name Middle Initial Lifetime $950.00 Student (full-time, ages 21-30) $25.00 Street Address City/State/Zip Code NOTE: Payment must be made in U.S. dollars. For Canada and other non-US countries, add $5 for postage. Phone E-mail Method of Payment: Check/Money Order (payable to AWS) Complete and Mail With Your Payment To: Visa Mastercard American Express Discover American Wine Society PO Box 889 | Scranton, PA 18501 Account No. Security Code 888-AWS-9070 | (fax) 570.344.4825 Expiration Date E-mail: [email protected] Cardholder’s Signature AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 5 was working my way back from Mexico last find great BBQ of all stripes. I limited myself My take on the term “BBQ” is that it winter when it occurred to me that I could to ten days zigging and zagging between includes actions taken to grill, smoke meats turn a long drive into a passionate quest the Rio Grand and the Atlantic Ocean and vegetables employing dry rubs, wet if I resolved the Great American Asada consistently trying brisket, pork ribs and sauces and various kinds of wood. Feel free Quandry: Does Zinfandel kick ass with pulled pork. to correct me or just throw in your two IBBQ? You can wander the globe and cents on the subject. There are wildly

Did a lot of homework on the internet between stops at some of the fabled Pitmasters. Learned a lot attending the superb presentation by Zinmaster Joel Peterson at the 2017 AWS conference. Found a few great wine shops en route (loved the Austin Wine Merchant) and in the end found Hedonistic Happiness. original side dish concepts and several common threads among the favored When you enter the hollowed haunts of tasteless white bread, mac & cheese and BBQ you are usually in the homey haven consistently delicious and excellent pairing of tin-type and cheap fluorescent of garlic pickle disks. There are some wildly American beer signs. The décor is age-old, successful variations of things like slaw and and a deliberate part of the stage set for beans. Never-the-less, it occurred to me your comfort. Most are not BYOB and do there are some common traits in BBQ and not list Zinfandel on their beer lists! Imag- Zin that help with pairing decisions. ine how bad I felt hoisting my repurposed Starbucks coffee cup to hide my wine fix! THE THREE ZINS It’s not unusual to belly up to a bar where heavy tattoos are slicing up your order and In my mind, there are now three distinct yelling over their shoulder for your sides. styles of Zin. I didn’t expend my palate on Find your own picnic table. the Blush category since virtually all are

6 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Stiles Switch BBQ in Austin, Texas

by Eric Miller

soft and sweet with minimal character that noticeable acidity, giving them a delicacy and smoke in the meats and they keep does little for BBQ and vice versa. Number unlike Zins of yesteryear. Were I not in the sauce on the side. I only used the two is the Voluptuous style and its less polite company I would describe them as house-made sauces and they seemed to expensive little sisters, like Dancing Bull, light and not kicking ass. (I’m talking single have some tomato, ranging from On Fire Marietta’s OVR and Three Wine Company’s vineyard Ridge, Ravenswood, Bedrock, to Prickly. Side dishes like beans go from Contra County Field Blend. The big girls get Limerick Lane, Once & Future, Carlisle!) smoky pork to sweet and pungent. Pickle in your face a split second after the cork is disks are all garlicky, usually crisp and pulled. Joel Peterson described a third style, required eating. new to me as of a few years ago, as “Food BBQ: MY TAKE Friendly” in their role at the table. Kansas City appears to rely most on rubs BBQ geeks will think it’s an oversimplifi- and smoke, sauce on the side, like what I The hallowed high-dollar Zins in his line-up cation, but here’s one way to look at it:- generally found in Texas. were lovely, complex and dark-fruited with Texas seems to favor some degree of rub

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 7 Interior of Franklin BBQ, Austin, Texas

Memphis is a melting pot, using both wines with substantial alcohol. When the big 2015 Rafanelli Sonoma with just about smoke and or massive amounts of thick, pairing is successful some of the herbs any BBQ that didn’t tear my tongue out. In sweet sauce hiding a tomato heritage. and spices rise to threshold and be- Austin, my favorite BBQ was Styles Switch; They put it on spaghetti and nachos too. come distinctive components as do the OMG the dinosaur-sized beef rib was like individual fruit characteristics of Zin. South Carolina seems to have an East/ When the flavors are toned down there West divide. I must have been way East are even happy times with Voluptuous’ when I ran into industrial grade white little sisters. When Zins are full-bodied and vinegar all over finely ground “pulled pork.” smooth, rather than sweet, I believe it is the ‘nuf said. I’ll go back to try out Western sweet-impression given by high alcohol, and South Carolina. to some extent the low acidity, that allows them to sooth and balance the palate in Kentucky is considered to be influenced the face of pepper or coriander type heat. by points south, east and west. My big At Lockhart Smokehouse, Bishop Arts regret is not tasting its signature lamb ribs. District, Dallas, the mouth-filling 2015 Turley, Fredricks Vineyard, praise the RESULTS Lord, paired perfectly with virtually everything including the unique but In this unscientific study, highly flavored slightly dry shoulder clod. foods (e.g., smoke and some rubs) are toned down by highly flavored fruity This observation was consistent pairing the

8 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Kobe beef, but the fabled Franklin was close sauce, though they had it behind. Both had awesome beans. on the side. Stack gave me Marietta’s 2015 Angeli kept up with the in- my first flight to heaven-on- tense flavors but the slightly lighter Frank a-plate with Burnt Ends and Family (no vineyard indicated) was 2015 Seghesio Sonoma. wounded in combat. Q-39 had the creativity to substitute a refreshing Jim Neely’s Interstate in Memphis is beloved Asian-style slaw for pickles, by locals and visitors alike but I expect they which paired wonderful- mostly drink very sweet tea or beer because ly with a medium weight everything, including the spaghetti and GN-5 Zinfandel. nachos, comes submerged in a sweet and spicy tomato based sauce. This is when the IN CONCLUSION Food Friendly becomes the Fast Fading. I experienced just that with the 2015 Biali Of course there is no final Black Chicken when a similar sauce was word. When I’m having donned on Louisville’s respected Frankfort highly flavored or spicy Avenue Beer Depot and Smokehouse. (Me, food I am thrilled by a I preferred Memphis’ less saucy, high Big-Assed Zin, which is character, low maintenance Cottage Café) occasionally substituted with a light, fruity, acidic, Intense peppery heat or super-salty rubs low alcohol, dry white like Franklin BBQ, Austin, Texas will eradicate most Zins. Pairing with this a a young Sauvignon Blanc wine with light fruit and prominent acidity from Touraine, Loire Valley. Like most becomes a wallflower. I found that big- things wine and food, personal taste is the assed sweet Zins like Rombauer, Sonoma, final decider. Zin and BBQ is really just a fun and the low acid L.A.Cetto (Valle de way to have an argument. Did I mention Guadulupe, Mexico) seem coarse on their Petite Syrah? own to become suave companions with aggressively seasoned BBQ. It was logical that Nini Negri Quadro, an lush style About The Author Nebbiolo from the Piedmonte, sung with Eric Miller has been an east coast American winemaker for more than 40 years, Hog & Hominy’s (Memphis) spicy take on first at his family’s Benmarl Vineyards in New York State and then at Chaddsford BBQ sweetbreads. Winery in Pennsylvania, which he founded and co-owned from 1982 through

2012. He has spent all of his adult life growing, conceiving and producing In Kansas City there was a huge contrast be- wines, learning and teaching about wine, traveling to wine regions around the tween the hipster Q-39 vs Jack Stacks white world, and, most importantly, tasting and drinking wine. He can be reached at tablecloth-feel but both had their strengths [email protected]. deep in smoky brisket and eager education- al staff. Neither smothered their pitwork in

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 9 by J. Stephen Casscles

a versatile red hybrid

other widely grown grape in the Loire Valley, it can make quality big, rich reds as well as light fruity rosés. Chambourcin grown in colder locations can have a thin austere quality, so the site chosen needs to be warm enough to produce quality wines. The Mid-Hudson Valley hambourcin, also known as J.S. 26-205, is is about Chambourcin’s northern limit in the United States, a versatile red wine grape variety that was not due to its winter tenderness, but because it needs a developed by Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) long growing season to ripen properly. probably sometime during the 1950s. It can

make big Rhône or northern Italian-type Chambourcin buds out late, but still produces a secondary reds, Anjou-type rosés, Nouveau or fall crop should a late spring frost hit the vineyard. The vine is C wines, and soft enjoyable table reds. It has moderately vigorous, of standard size, and produces large to been commercially available only since 1963 and is today very large clusters of moderately loose bunches of big blue one of the most widely grown red French-American hybrids to blue-black grapes. It is consistently productive, but needs in France. The name Chambourcin is derived from the town cluster thinning to sustain the vigorousness of the vine and in which it was bred, Bougé Chambalud, France, only the to produce quality wines. The vine is sensitive to lime soils name is reversed. and should not be planted in droughty places. It does much

better in deep, well-drained soils. It is only slightly less This grape is popular in the Loire Valley, Touraine, Nantes, winter hardy than Baco Noir and about as hardy as Chelois. Muscadet, and Savoie, France. In the United States, it is a The grape is somewhat resistant to fungus diseases. It is widely grown in Michigan, Missouri, Pennsylvania, Virginia, resistant to botrytis and most bunch rots due to its thick and most other Mid-Atlantic states. skin, loose-forming clusters, and late harvest date. Spray

applications should not be neglected, particularly for black Chambourcin is popular because, like Cabernet Franc, the rot and downy mildew. It is sensitive to sulfur treatments.

10 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Due to its airy leaf canopy and loose clusters, the vine readily The color of the wines are a deep crimson red, not like an accepts fungus sprays and dries out quickly because its inky De Chaunac, Chancellor, or Cabernet Sauvignon. It ages canopy allows for good air and sunlight circulation. The well and is color-fast; retaining deep crimson hues for seven grape ripens late to very late, but its thick skins make it to ten years before beginning to change to red and resistant to frost damage. brick-red hues. In fact, it can sometimes take too long to reach its peak. I have had twenty-year old Chambourcins The wine is superior to most other red French-American that still needed time to reach their peak and they still had hybrids when made as a big aromatic red. It has solid those young, bright crimson colors. However, Chambourcin’s tannin structure and a rich complex flavor. Chambourcin is high acid can clash with immature tannins if the grapes are not overly grapey, herbaceous, or have hints of dank rubber under-ripe when picked. To expedite the aging process, tire like some other red hybrids. Chambourcin blends well extended wood aging is required. Also, expediting the aging with vinifera wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon process can be done by blending in very small amounts of and Cabernet Franc because it softens them. It can be DeChaunac into a Chambourcin based wine. This is because blended with French-American hybrids such as Baco Noir, DeChaunac wines tend to quickly brown, age, and fall apart; Burdin, Chelois, or Maréchal Foch to help bolster their hence just a little bit of DeChaunac will add aging elements tannin structure and increase complexity. If fermented on and brown hues to a young and robust Chambourcin. the skins for extended periods of time, Chambourcin extracts big complex vinifera flavors.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORGAMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINEWINE JOURNAL JOURNAL : SUMMER: SUMMER : :2018 2018 | |11 11 not like a cloyingly sweet Pink Catawba, which I also do like, but steely rosés that have a presence that is easily consumed during the summer. In the Loire Valley, much Chambourcin is made into locally consumed rosés. These high-acid raspberry-red to peach-colored wines are bright, with elements of cranberries, lemons, watermelons, and Hawaiian Punch with a slate finish. Also, in the warmer Middle Atlantic states, Chambourcins can be made into quality Nouveaus and soft red wines with the aid of carbonic maceration.

As a big red, Chambourcin has great intensity for a French-American hybrid, with spicy and earthy Some wine evaluators have described Chambourcin as characteristics. While it is a grape that can handle the similar to a full-bodied Bordeaux or a Rhône. I believe that retention of all its stems during maceration, it can also even with their high-acid front and middle, they have more benefit from malolactic fermentation. Chambourcin stems of the elements of a soft, light Rhône, Cabernet Franc, or tend to stay green longer than many other varieties, even northern Italian red. This is because of their soft, but firm, when the grapes are ripe which can add bitter flavors. It is tannin structure, flavor profile, subtle nuances, and recommended that about one-half of the stems should be prominent black pepper aroma. These flavors overlay nicely removed, particularly if they are unripe green stems. with the grape’s basic berry front, most noticeably blackberries and chocolate. Overall, Chambourcin reminds me of a light Cabernet Franc,

a thin Rhône, or an Anjou rosé. The wines are similar to Chambourcins have a wide range of fruit flavors, including Cabernet Franc, but not as rich. However, they are quite cherry, black raspberry, black currants, blueberries, cooked good and better suited to those who like lighter bodied mulberries, and prunes, but they can be grapey. The earthy vinifera wines. Chambourcins lend themselves to blending and resinous body has elements of black olives, anise, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Baco Noir, Bur- cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, burnt toast, soy sauce, and din, and Chelois. They have a bigger body than most other flint. The wines can be aromatic with a bouquet French-American hybrids, but they still do not have the hefty of eucalyptus, spice, smoke, cigar box, tobacco, leather, body or tannin structure of most vinifera varieties. However, mahogany, teakwood, and chocolate. They can also be adding even 20 percent Chambourcin to other red hybrid herbaceous with flavors of dill and green peppers. For all wines can really brighten them up and give them substance. of their flavor and body, Chambourcins tend to have muted Chambourcin comes highly recommended both for its attri- or closed noses, unless aged for seven to fifteen years. So, butes in the field and versatility in the cellar. Below is a short in making Chambourcins, adding big-nosed varieties biography of the creator of Chambourcin. such as Baco, Chelois, or Maréchal Foch into blends is recommended. They are complex wines that offer much to Joannes Seyve – The Father of Chambourcin the winemaker and the consumer alike.

Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) took over his father’s nursery They make very credible rosés, not unlike an Anjou rosé business (Bertille Seyve, Sr. (1864-1939), while his older (which is partially made from Chambourcin). These rosés are brother Bertille Seyve, Jr. joined forces with his father-in-law

12 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Victor Villard to establish a new nursery in the same town. Both Midi area of France. In addition to Chambourcin, Joannes nurseries were located on the east bank of the Rhône River, hybridized other grapes, including a white grape, J.S. 23.416 in Bougé Chambalud, in the Rhône-Alpes area of France, just (B.S. 4828 (Le Colonel x Subereux) x Chancellor). This white south of Lyon. While Joannes’ own grape-breeding program grape has very large clusters of amber to pink berries that are was much less extensive that Bertille Seyve, Jr.’s, he is still oval and good for table use or wine. J.S.23.416 is the seed credited with breeding more than fifty new grape varieties. parent of Traminette. Monsieur Seyve, Jr. bred the famous and widely planted Seyval Blanc, Villard Bland, Villard Noir, and S.V. 18-307. About The Author Like his brother, Joannes extensively used S. 6468 (S.4614 x Stephen Casscles comes from a fruit growing family S.3011) as the seed parent, but relied on Chancellor as one of based in the Mid-Hudson Valley since the 1870s. his primary pollen parents. In addition, he used Seyve-Villard In 2015, he authored Grapes of the Hudson Valley and crosses of Seyval Noir and S.V. 12-417, and crosses that had Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and Subereux (S.6905) as one of its parents. By far, Joannes’ most Canada. He has been a frequent guest speaker and widely known grape is Chambourcin. Like his older brother, lecturer in the Hudson Valley and New York City area Joannes used Seibel hybrids in his breeding work. He crossed and continues to write articles for wine/agricultural Seibel hybrids to the exclusion of all others, except for a few crosses done with his father’s B.S. 4825 (Le Colonel x Subereux). industry journals, as well as speak on the radio about grapes, winemaking, and horticultural topics. He can Philip Wagner, a nurseryman and, along with his wife, Jocelyn, be reached at [email protected]. owner of Boordy Vineyards in Riderwood, Maryland, and charter members of the American Wine Society, maintained This article is based, in part, on Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate that Joannes was, like Galibert, chiefly interested in producing Regions of the United States and Canada, (Coxsackie, NY: Flint Mine Press, 2015), hybrids for the warm and humid Mediterranean climate of the 139-140, 145-147.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 13 I’ve been fortunate to work in many nothing that constituted the huge mean that you’re making amazing wine Idifferent wineries in many different parts of variation I saw in the fermentation and just because you do not have a fancy the world and it has been both confusing practices. So in this article I decided to cellar doesn’t mean that you’re not making and enlightening at the same time. Every discuss what I’ve learned about amazing wine. What can help you make winemaker has a different prideful opinion fermentation practices. amazing wine is knowing the ins and outs on the best way to ferment. I’m going to let of fermentation. you guys in on a little secret… regardless Fermentation! What an amazing process! of the methods and practices that were Thank you yeast and bacteria, we are in I used to think that it was the quality employed; the end result was always your debt. We winemakers like to try and of the grapes that determined the quality THETHE INSINS ANDAND OUTSOUTS OFOF FERMENTATIONFERMENTATION

unflawed, palatable wine. From the super take credit but in truth, we are just of the wine, but I’ve seen plenty of evidence large wineries with no sorting to the small measly guides. I’ve seen fermentation in that when Mother Nature turns her back boutique winery where each individual fancy temperature controlled stainless on you, you can still make great wine out steel tanks; I’ve also seen fermentation in of not-so-great grapes. Making wine out of large food grade plastic containers great grapes is super easy and well, kind of (technically water tanks). I’ve seen fermen- boring. As a winemaker you just have to tation in barrels, egg-shaped cement not screw it up. Making wine out of not-so- vessels and plastic picking bins. I’m not great grapes…that takes experience and saying that there aren’t differences, know-how. I worked a harvest in Oregon however to say that generally one and Mother Nature made it rain the entire produces better results than another, there picking season. just isn’t abounding evidence support- ing that. Those poor grapes, they absorbed the water, the skins split and when the slop hit And to be honest I was looking for it, I the sorting table we didn’t even know what wanted it to be there. I wanted to know to do, the smell of acetic acid was over- that the pricey stainless steel was worth whelming, and everything I had learned every penny. I’ve been humbled more told me that this season was going to than once. There are situations where one be a wash…but you know what, it turned vessel might be better suited for your out just fine. In fact, critics rated the 2013 berry was selected, delicious wine was the needs than another, but it shouldn’t be a vintage in the Willamette as one of the result. I expected much more variation in decision premised on fancy is better. Just better vintages. At first I scoffed and shook quality but didn’t really find it; at least because you have a fancy cellar doesn’t my head and then I took a step back and

14 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG thought, maybe it was my presupposition that was wrong. The 2013 finished wines were fantastic. I was just in disbelief because everything I knew said that it couldn’t possibly turn out that way.

Sure this fruit was less than ideal, so we inoculated the next day. We had to forego an extended cold soak but that’s THETHE INSINS ANDAND OUTSOUTS OFOF FERMENTATIONFERMENTATION by Kristine Austin

what I mean about making situational So the purpose of doing a cold soak is to extracted in the higher alcohol solution choices. We looked at the fruit and get more color. The cold is simply to delay of extended maceration. If you don’t have knew that we should put the strong fermentation while the juice gets skin the ability to make the fermentation cold, genetically engineered yeast culture in contact but without the solvent effects of a large addition of sulfur, say 100ppm or to take over from the acetic acid bacteria. alcohol. Alcohol, acting as a solvent, more will delay fermentation as well. It Since it was raining, the fruit wasn’t coming extracts not only the anthocyanins, will initially appear that your juice will be in warm, so that was in our favor. If it which create color, but also tannins and “bleached” or lighter in color but don’t be had been warmer we might not have other harsh compounds. The color com- alarmed, the color will come back in full waited a day. pounds that are extracted during the force towards the end of fermentation. juice stage are more stable than the ones

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 15 Speaking of sulfur, the addition of sulfur to belief, besides the mildew and mold, a few water, a little cooler than the suggested juice is completely up to you and what you leaves and stems don’t really seem to temperature of 37°C is allowable, feel comfortable with. I’ve seen numbers impact the fermentation and sometimes you won’t be doing any real damage, but from 0-120ppm. Again I think you should even add to it. over 37°C, well you’ll start killing cells. So make the choice based on the integrity of once you have the water at the correct the fruit; if there is any mold or mildew I Now for inoculations, I was helping a friend temperature, dump the entire amount would increase the level of sulfur. I’ve seen the other day and realized how poor the of dried yeast in the water, and give winemakers sprinkle sulfur in as powder. instructions are on yeast packages. it a GENTLE stir, just to get the yeast in Research has shown that the initial stages touch with the water. Gentle is the I’ve seen them dissolve it in juice. I’ve seen of hydration are actually a very delicate key here, apparently the yeast are in a them dissolve it in water (my preferred stage in the life of the yeast. Sure you very delicate stage at this point and giving method). We all have our preferences. But can sprinkle the package in the juice them a good whisk is damaging to them, guess what, all of those methods produced (I don’t recommend this), but you risk a I’m not kidding. I suggest just a simple stir the same result. Both mildew and mold problematic fermentation. The happier with a spoon; don’t worry if the yeast (botrytis, not so much the fuzzy green your yeast is, the fewer issues you is initially lumpy or clumpy, stir once and penicillin stuff) can cause problems during encounter during fermentation. Here is let it sit for the suggested 20 minutes. The fermentation and produce off flavors in what I suggest to create healthy, majority of the time, after those 20 minutes, the resulting wine. You will save yourself happy yeast. those lumps are magically gone. After the a headache if you try to remove it 20 minutes, gently stir again and then add prior to fermentation. That brings up the Use the suggested amount of water but about 5% juice (so if you have 10 liters of controversial topic of sorting. I’ve seen place this amount of water in a container water add 500ml of juice) from the tank you experiments with sorting and its opposite, at least twice its size. The yeast are pretty are about to inoculate. not sorting at all. And contrary to popular particular about the temperature of this

16 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG What you are doing now is slowly to the tank, just pour the yeast starter into natural fermentation, yeast nutrition is very preparing the yeast for a high sugar one spot, that’s right, one spot don’t important but I’ll have to breach that topic environment. Adding the yeast directly to sprinkle it over the top or separate it into another time. the tank without this process runs the risk different corners. Think of it this way, they of shocking the yeast and damaging them. are entering into a weird new environment After that first addition of juice, wait 5 and they find strength in numbers. About The Author minutes and add another 500ml of juice. Kristine Austin could be considered Then continue to do this every 2-3 minutes You may think that taking so much care into an over-educated migrant worker. until you’ve doubled your starter (you may hydrating yeast and inoculating a tank is a With a degree in philosophy and a need another bucket if it is foamy). This little over the top…but think of it this way; degree in enology she travels the also helps to bring the temperature those little guys are the ones doing all your world making wine, working for down to be within 10°C of the tank hard work. You need keep them healthy great winemakers, doing the hard y o u a re inoculating. Drastic change in and happy so that they can reproduce temperature is also a way to shock and and consume all the sugar in the juice. You work and getting zero credit (but damage the yeast. During the addition of can have all the fancy tanks and devices having very few responsibilities). juice stage, I would also pour the starter you want but it’s the knowledge of how Kristine can be reached at kristine. from one bucket to another in order to to create and maintain your yeast culture [email protected] incorporate oxygen into the starter. Yeast that will make you a successful wine. Now, love oxygen. Now when you add the yeast whether you are inoculating or doing a

About The Author

Kristine Austin could be considered an over-educat- ed migrant worker. With a degree in philosophy and a degree in enology she travels the world making wine, working for great winemakers, doing the hard work and getting zero credit (but having very few responsibilities). Kristine can be reached at [email protected]

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 17 THE

WINE by Michael Schafer, CSW

“G”ne of the greatest wines on the planet to pair Let’s nail down the pronunciation of this wine; it’s Ga VERTZ with exotic or spicy food “don’t get no respect” trah mean er. Many folks shorten that to just Gavertz and on many wine lists. A famous Alsatian wine- many wine lovers simply refer to it as “the G wine”! Whatever maker once characterized Gewürztraminer as you call it, Gewürztraminer is both loved and hated. Distinctive “the Liberace of the wine world.” Much easier aromas are a hallmark of this grape. Litchi, rose petals, exotic to enjoy than pronounce, this white wine spices and perfume immediately come to mind. On the palate O frequently elicits intense reactions from it’s frequently full textured with low acidity. Stone fruit flavors oenophiles and novice wine drinkers alike. Flamboyant, of mangoes, peaches and apricots are typical. The finish is opulent, exotic, outlandish, over-the-top. These are just a few frequently spicy, with lingering flavors of ginger and cinnamon. adjectives frequently used to describe Gewürztraminer. The wine is made in a range of styles, from bone-dry to medium sweet to unctuous dessert wines.

18 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG HISTORY Michigan all produce this fabled wine. While many wines from the Old World and the New World are easy to compare The origins of this heady wine are ancient. At the top of the and contrast, Gewürztraminer is an exception. Chardonnay Italian “boot,” nestled between Austria and Switzerland, in the from Burgundy, say a Montrachet, is readily distinguishable area known as Alto Aldige, is the village of Tramin. from a Chardonnay from the Napa Valley. Rieslings from the Approximately two and a half hours drive northeast of Milan, Old World, particularly Germany, express their terroir from the Italy, this scenic valley looks Germanic not Italian, with steep first whiff. New World versions are usually much more fruit-fo- hillsides and steepled churches. cused, offering up aromas of peaches and pears. Like Rieslings, Gewürztraminers range from bone dry to unctuous late harvest dessert wines like Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles (Alsace).

STYLE

The word style is usually used in describing fashion, whether clothes, hair, or architecture. It also applies to wine and especially to Gewürztraminer. Do you enjoy a light, slightly aromatic wine with a crisp finish? Or do you prefer a version that jumps out of the glass with aromas of roses, litchi and

Alto Aldridge perfume with a long, lingering finish? Both versions are widely available and knowing which styles pair with your favorite Cultivated using the pergola system, the vines are grown dishes is paramount when selecting your Gewürztraminer. It’s almost horizontally on the downhill side. The intertwined also one of the determining factors for the winemaker. He or canopy above becomes a three foot wide “shelf” of grapevines. she must decide what style of wine they are going to make. Grapes hang underneath, protected from hail, shaded from the sun, providing a pretty picture as well as allowing substantial PAIRING air flow to help prevent disease. Perhaps Gewürztraminer’s greatest virtue is its amazing ability Gewürz means both spicy and perfumed in German. Adding to pair with so many foods. From spicy stir-fry to stinky cheese, Gewürz and traminer together creates the name of the grape this is one flexible grape! We’ll begin with classic pairings and and the wine as we know it. progress to more adventuresome matches, concluding with, what else, dessert. Gewürztraminer is made all over the globe. From its roots in Italy where it’s called Traminer Aromatico, across the mountains to Austria where it’s just Traminer, to the Rheinpfalz region of Germany, or in its most famous home of Alsace, France, this wine has both fans and foes.

In the New World, Gewürztraminer is found from New Zealand to California and Washington State. Canada, New York and

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 19 Game birds such as pheasant and ruffed grouse are comple- mented by Gewürtz. The richness of foie gras is balanced by the luxury of a full-bodied Gewürztraminer.

A frequent challenge is finding wine to pair with your favorite spicy dishes. For Tandoori chicken or chicken tikka, an off-dry version is perfect. Off-dry styles are also natural pairings with savory dishes containing fruits found in salsas and chutneys. Curries laced with cumin, coriander and ginger work well with semi-dry or slightly sweet examples because the wine itself is Alsace, France so spicy and floral. Pad Thai and the Laotian/Thai dish Larb na are complemented by an off-dry version of Gewürz. Alsace is home to the most powerful Gewürztraminers in the world. Some of these wines are so “big” they have the body Spicier foods like Hunan chicken or Kung Pao chicken are of a red Bordeaux. Seriously. The tannins aren’t there but the complemented by a Gewürztraminer with a bit more residual body and mouthfeel is heavy and weighty. Full-flavored ripe sugar to balance and soften the heat of the peppers in the dish. or “stinky” cheeses are a match made in heaven for these big wines. Epoisses from Burgundy, France, the classic cow’s milk When Gewürz is made in a late harvest or dessert style, it cheese has been made in the small town of Epoisses since the marries beautifully with fruit-based desserts, such as flans and late 1700s. Another time-tested match is Muenster cheese with cobblers. Pastries featuring peaches, pears, mangoes are all a dry Gewürztraminer. This is not the Munster you’ll find at the appropriate with a sweeter, more intense wine. Remember, supermarket with the orange rind that is mild as a spring rain when pairing wines with desserts, the wine must be sweeter shower! This is the strong, penetrating soft cheese from the than the dessert! village of Munster in the Vosges Mountains. Other wonderful

“fragrant” soft cheese choices are Maroilles or Livarot. Enjoy this exotic and fascinating wine soon! Slainte!

Keeping with traditional pairings, the Onion Tart or Tarte Flambée is a classic. Made with onions, cheese and bacon, About The Author this Alsatian “pizza” is perfect match with a semi-dry Gewürz.

Smoked salmon is yet another scrumptious match for our Michael Schafer, Esq. is a Sommelier, Certified Special- spicy friend. ist of Wine and Certified Specialist of Spirits based in Michigan. He is a Professor at Oakland Community Raclette cheese is an excellent partner for Gewürz. Crusty College and at Baker College. Michael teaches bread dipped into slightly heated Raclette with a glass of consumer classes about wine and spirits, as well as off-dry Gewürz is, to use a technical viticultural term, yummy. conducting team training for restaurants and clubs. He frequently speaks at a variety of events. You can reach Classic Alsatian dishes such as Choucroute Garnie are natural Michael at [email protected], on Facebook at matches for Gewürztraminer. Baeckeoffe (baker’s oven) made winecounselor and Twitter @WineCounselor. with pork, lamb, beef and sliced potatoes, slow cooked all day, is another perfect partner for Gewürz.

20 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG by Roger Morris TheThe GrünerGrüner Lots of grapes can make good wines. Only a few can make great ones. Wine #3 was indeed a Burgundy – a 2015

Last September, I traveled to Vienna to take Bâtard-Montrachet from Bachelet-Monnot – AscendancyAscendancypart in a new Vinexpo initiative called but wine #1 was not a Burgundy. It was a “Explorer,” whose purpose it is to bring 2015 Grüner Veltliner by Jurtchitsch that selected global wine buyers to an came from the “ried,” or single vineyard, under-appreciated region or country to called Lamm in Kamptal just west of Vienna meet with its wine producers, just as the along the Danube. real Vinexpo does on a worldwide scale at its huge, semi-annual expositions in I was stunned, and so were most of the Bordeaux and Hong Kong. other tasters from Germany to Japan. At the dais, co-host Willi Klinger, director of The final day of the meeting featured the Austrian Wine Market Board, broke a double blind tasting of unknown into a sly grin. “I couldn’t let all of you go Austrian wines mixed in with similar home thinking that Grüner was only an unknown wines from other countries. We entry-level wine.” were into the third flight of three wines, and I was struck by the rich fruit, minerality Like many Americans who had never before and tart finish of wine #1. I immediately visited Austrian vineyards and had mostly thought, “White Burgundy, possibly a full- tasted less-expensive Grüners in American er Chablis or even a cru from Côte d’Or.” restaurants and wine bars or from bottles Wine #3, I thought, was similar in taste sent me for tasting, that was mostly what and texture and could also be a Burgundy. I thought when I arrived in Vienna. But a But, of the two, I preferred the impact of series of tastings in Vienna and a quick trip the first wine. to the Kamptal region a couple days earlier should have prepared me to be surprised.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 21 and Grüners from these selected single vineyards or rieds are called riedenwines, and the name of vineyard proceeded by the word ried is featured on the wine labels.

Later the same day, I visited the Sepp Moser winery in Kremstal, located where the northern hills and the southern hills pinch tightly on either side of the Danube. The estate is now being run by Nikolaus Moser. If the Moser name sounds familiar to some vineyardists, it’s because Moser’s

Senftenberg, Austria grandfather, Lenz Moser, in the 1950s invented a trellising system of wide rows While many Austrian winemakers still hold Earlier in my visit, I talked with several wine and higher vine trunks that bears his name a Germanic allegiance to Riesling over all producers from throughout Austria during and is still widely in use around the world. other white grapes, and while many are a walk-around tasting. One of them was Most of the Moser’s vineyards are terraced excited about the results they are getting Barbara Koller, export director of Schloss on deep layers of loess – “up to 30 meters in from red wines made with the Blaufränk- Gobelsberg, a much-honored grower in some places,” Moser says – intermixed with isch grape, it is Grüner Veltliner that is the Kamptal, which is imported in the U.S. by calcareous and glacial soils coming from reigning queen of Austrian grapes in quan- Michael Skurnik. Over a sip or two of 2015 the Alps to the west and to the south. Since tity and some would argue in quality as Gobelsberg Reid “Lamm” Grüner Veltliner, 2005, Sepp Moser has been biodynamic. In well. Writing in her “Oxford Companion to Koller explained that the region is in the the cellar, whites undergo spontaneous Wine,” Jancis Robinson says, “The wine is process of developing a cru system based fermentation and mainly tank aging, with typically dry, peppery, or spicy and with on single vineyard and already is labeling some barrel use in certain crus. Moser is time in the bottle can start to taste posi- its wines accordingly. distributed in the U.S. by Integrity Wines, Oz tively Burgundian.” Wine Company and Williams Corner Wine. Indeed, over the past 20 years, growers in A natural offspring of the Traminer and St. the adjacent areas of Kamptal, Kremstal, Ageability is always a factor in determining Georgen varieties, Grüner is planted on Traisental and Wagram – mostly along great wines, and hence determining great 35,640 acres of vineyards, which account smaller river valleys that flow directly into grapes, and two Sepp Moser wines tast- for about 31 percent of total Austrian acre- the Danube – have been making an ed demonstrate that capability. We were age for red and white grapes combined. It exhaustive study of soils and wine tastings, served first the 2016 Grüner from the Sch- is widely planted, sometimes next to blocks and in 2010 issued a classification system nabel vineyard near Krems, a cru, followed of Riesling, in the Niederösterreich or Lower in which 53 vineyards were designated by the 2005 from the same plot. The 2016 Austria in the country’s northern region just as “erste lage,” the top level. All are located was very floral, somewhat soft on the west of Vienna and not far from the Czech on the north side of the river, except for palate but with great persistence. It was Republic border. And it is generally agreed Traisental. The Wachau region, just west unfiltered, having aged in large barrels. The that the majority of the best Grüners are of the others and also on the north side, 2005 had a slightly oily (as with Riesling) made here. may in time be classified as well. Rieslings nose but was delicious with rich, deep fruit

22 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG flavors and good acidity. It had matured has produced great wines in Austria and gracefully without becoming tired or occasionally nearby. But it will be years, unduly oxidized. perhaps decades, before Austrian Grüner is widely recognized by judges and by Wine experts often are in general collectors who must pay the price for them agreement in what constitutes a great as uniformly a producer of great wines. wine – complexity of taste, great structure, More challenging will be its ability to make ageability, flexibility in styles produced. great wines outside of Middle Europe. It is Classic grapes have another qualification to now being widely planted in the United meet in addition to being able to produce States, especially in the East, but the out- these great wines – the ability to produce come there has been mainly to produce great wines outside of their home region, wine-by-the-glass quality – although I can so they are not just a great regional grape. think of a couple of exceptions.

Among white grapes, Chardonnay, While Grüner has been around a long time Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are by regionally, it is still a youngster general consensus considered classics, internationally. In that sense, to use one

About The Author

Roger Morris is a Pennsylvania-

based writer who contributes

articles to several publications,

including Wine Enthusiast, Town &

Country, The Drinks Business, Beverage producing great wines in many regions in of those dreaded sports analogies, it is Media and TheDailyMeal.com. the Old and New Worlds. Other grapes, still an impressive rookie, full of promise including Gewürztraminer and Chenin that may fade away as interest in it wanes. Blanc, are more arguable. They may Or Grüner Veltliner may become a classic Roger can be reached at: occasionally produce great wines, but less grape, one universally recognized as pro- regularly and less universally. ducing great wines around the globe. [email protected].

At present, Grüner falls into the latter classification. Without doubt, it can and

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 23 LYCHEE FROSÉ stay frosty this summer by Jim Rink

ine purists may want to look the other way, but For this summer, Rosé Piscine is back with a brand new there’s a chilling trend — frozen rosé or rosé on invention - the summer cocktail Lychee Frosé Piscine. The W ice. Leading the charge is Rosé Piscine, the original cocktail features fresh fruit notes as it mixes lychee, grenadine still French rosé specifically made to drink over ice. As Rosé syrup and ice. For more information on Rosé Piscine and its Piscine is served on the rocks, “piscine-style,” there is no need availability, visit: www.rosepiscine.com. The recipe for Lychee to pre-chill the bottle. The trademark blue and white-striped Frosé Piscine is shown below: bottle is encased in a protective sleeve to safely serve poolside or at the beach. LYCHEE FROSÉ PISCINE Rosé Piscine actually arrived on the scene last summer, where

it was launched in Brazil and France and specifically targeted to Ingredients & Tools: Millennials, who will apparently try anything once. Today, the 1 Bottle of Rosé Piscine brand sells several million bottles a year in those two markets. 1 Canned Lychee 1 Grenadine Syrup (optional) The idea for for Rosé Piscine was hatched when Jacques Ice Cube Molds Tranier, a French wine executive on holiday in St. Tropez,

observed beachgoers ordering rosé in cognac glasses over ice, Instructions: which some waiters called rosé piscine. He ordered one and 1. Pour Rosé Piscine into ice cube molds found that it was refreshing, but as the ice melted it tasted 2. Freeze for 6 hours watery and lacked the typical rosé acidity and crispness. 3. Place ice cubes in blender, 4. Add 1 cup of Lychee syrup Upon returning to the winery, Mr. Tranier and his winemaker 5. Add 1 tsp of grenadine took it upon themselves to create the perfect rosé to be served 6. Blend, decorate with red berries, and enjoy! over ice, by targeting a specific and proprietary acidity, residual sugar content, mouth feel and appearance; Rosé Piscine is now a trademarked name of the company.

24 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG he ability of wine complexity of these factors, and the Despite the negative connotation of to express terroir is an subjective nature of assessing wine terroir from long ago, some wine oft-debated topic in wine aromas and flavors, it is not surprising that aficionados came to consider some enthusiast circles. Those understanding and finding proof of terroir level of earthy-farm odors and flavors who promote the exis- remain elusive. as positive. Over time, the meaning of tence of terroir in wine terroir evolved into a positive representa- typically state that it is HISTORY tion of the unique positive characteristics T an expression of the soils attributed to local soils and local growing upon which the grapes are grown, and/or The origins of terroir go back to the 8th conditions. Old World vintners began to the attributes of the land. Others adhere century France where monks studied describe terroir as the relationship to the belief that terroir is more about organoleptically-detectable differences in between soils (and to an extent geogra- marketing regional wines than scientific wines. They attributed these differences phy) and wine aroma and flavors. To this reality. to specific characteristics derived from day, many consider soil characteristics to different parcels of land that were used to be the primary driving factor that If terroir is real, then terroir is important produce the wine. History indicates that influences terroir. since it relates the sensory attributes of the meaning of terroir was derived from wine to the soils and environmental attempts to describe the farm-like The glaring omissions in this historic conditions in which the grapes are grown. aroma and flavor of manure associated definition of terroir are the failure to So, what is really known about terroir? with some wines at that time. The use of include grape variety and clone, as well as TERROIR Reality, Myth, or Marketing? by Timothy Post Scientifically, terroir is difficult to study descriptions such as ‘repulsive’ and the winemaker’s skills, which are consid- because so many factors can influence ‘unpleasant’ indicate that these aromas ered by most vintners to be the primary the characteristics and expression of wine. and flavors were not considered in a posi- drivers of wine expression. The choice The complexity of interactions between tive context (Matthews 2014). Thus, terroir of wine styles, wine-making methods, climate, grape variety and clone, geogra- may have originally been a description of choice of yeast, and decisions on phy, vineyard management, microbes aromas and flavors attributable to whether to age in oak can result in in vineyards and in wineries, soils, and the microbial (perhaps Brettanomyces) spoil- considerable differences in the expression influence of the winemaker in style and age in wine that was likely due to poor of wines made from the same grape. method - all of these factors can winery sanitation. Of course, back then synergistically combine to influence they didn’t have the technology to look Following the phylloxera epidemic that characteristics of wine. Considering the for microorganisms, that came much later. began in the 1860s and killed grapevines

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 25 across Europe, European vineyards had wines, France once again used terroir to primary factors in the creation of terroir. to be replanted with grapevines and/or differentiate and promote French wines. Wine bottle labels often contain prose rootstock from America (or other non- The increased competition from the waxing poetic about how the soils in their affected countries). This caused New World had to be countered, thus vineyard impart unique characteristics to a dilemma for European (in particular terroir became an expression of nostal- their wines. So, do soils contribute to the French) wine producers. Since the gia and nationalistic pride. Over time, creation of terroir? replanted vines had their origins in North the meaning of terroir took on an almost America, or other non-European mystical ideology, and became part of the As evidence of terroir, some vintners and countries, it was difficult to convince fabric of wine culture. Some vineyards, wine enthusiasts will point to the results consumers that European wines were wineries, and wine enthusiasts began to of blind taste tests completed by experi- different or better than wines produced use the term terroir to refer to a more enced judges that can sometimes identify in the countries that supplied the vines. holistic vision of what goes into the a wine by region based on aroma and They needed a marketing program to production of wine, not just what goes on flavor alone. However, the ability to promote the distinctive characteristics below the surface of the vineyard. identify wines by their geographic origin that vineyard s o i l s a n d g ro w i n g does not mean that such distinctness is conditions imparted to their wines. The There are many factors, including soils derived from soil minerals or composition. result was the rebirth of terroir to define and water availability, that can directly or For example, the aroma and flavor of min- French wines as distinctive and high- indirectly impact grape quality, and there- erality in wine is often described as part quality wines that had uniqueness of fore wine quality. However, in analyzing of the expression of soil-influenced terroir. place, and soil-derived terroir. statements about any potential factors that may be expressed as terroir, it is Specific terroirs, such as those on high In 1935, France introduced the Appella- important to draw a distinction between calcium (chalk) soils in France, are said tion d’Origine Controlee (AOC) system factors that influence grape quality, and to present in part as ‘minerality’ in wine. which set winemaking standards those that might produce a soil-derived Vintners often allude to the origins of this to elevate the quality of French wines, terroir. The following discusses the perceived minerality in wine being from and to promote terroir as a symbol of factors that are most often linked to minerals in the soils being taken up by the uniqueness and mystique of French terroir (soils, climate and geography, vines. However, research results indicate wines in a growing international and viticultural area). that minerals taken up from the soil do marketplace. Time has shown that a not directly provide a detectable sensory romantic conception of terroir can appeal SOILS expression in wine. Most elemental to those who purchase wine, and the AOC minerals found in soil have no flavor, and system proved to be a marketing success Soil characteristics have long been are present in such minute amounts both as an expression of terroir and as a considered by many to be of particular that they are well below the symbol of quality and status. importance in creating terroir. Many detection threshold. vintners espouse the belief that soils After the judgement in Paris, when Amer- (depth, chemical composition, physical The apparent source of minerality in wine ican wines were rated higher than French structure, and drainage) are one of the may have been found some years back.

26WINE | WINEJOURNAL JOURNAL : SUMMER : SUMMER : 2018 : |2018 26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG If you have ever walked on or near a slate The bottom line is science-based research or granite surface after a summer rain you has not been able to find a consistent or have probably smelled the mineral-like meaningful correlation between general aroma rising from the rock surfaces and or specific soil characteristics and unique ascribed the odor to the mineral compo- chemical composition, or aromas and sition of the wet rocks. However, research flavors, in wines. Therefore, the evidence by Bear and Kranzs in 1965 showed that does not support the concept that soil char- these mineral-like odors are in reality acteristics can produce a unique terroir. caused by fatty acids on rocks surfaces, not the mineral composition of the rocks CLIMATE/GEOGRAPHY themselves. Whether the fatty acids themselves produced the aromas when The impacts of climate and geography are have found no correlation, partly due to wet, or there were microbes involved in closely related and can have a significant the complications of scale. Most viticul- creating the odors was not determined. impact on wine quality and regional style. tural areas encompass relatively large

Grapes grown in warm climates can reach geographic areas that include a tremen- Research has shown that within a complete ripeness and will exhibit differ- dous variety of conditions (, soils, uniformly managed vineyard block ent characteristics than the same grape topography). Therefore, there is too much grape ripening and quality can exhibit grown in a cool environment where within-viticultural area variability in significant spatial variation to differences grapes may not reach complete ripeness. conditions to result in a shared terroir. in topography and/or soil types. Portions If the climate does not allow for full Perhaps the viticultural area designa- of a vineyard that support less mature ripening, the grapes (and wine) may have tion that comes the closest to a scale grapes may produce significantly vegetative flavors, high acidity, and low that might exhibit unique terroir are the lower quality grapes. Such disparate alcohol levels. Climate and meso- grand crus in Burgundy, France. These within-vineyard soils would seem to climate can also have a significant effect grand crus require by law that all grapes suggest that each soil would produce its on the grape species, varieties, and clones used be from fields that may cover only own terroir, rather than a singular terroir. that are best suited to be grown. Differ- a few acres. Whether their terroir is real The substantial within-vineyard variability ent grape varieties and clones have or imagined, the wines sold from these of grape quality and ripeness does raise different heat requirements (growing grand crus can sell for one hundred an interesting question. If there is degree days) and are planted in different dollars or more a bottle. With that kind considerable variation in soils or regions to optimize the growing season of economic incentive, it is not surprising topography within a vineyard, which of length. Vineyards select varieties, that the vineyards and wineries within the soils or elevations does the vineyard’s cultivars and clones that have traits that these grand crus promote the concept of terroir represent? best match the climate, soils, and their vineyard’s unique terroir.

water availability of the vineyard. Since many traditional European regions Climate, and geography can have major In summation, soils and viticultural that ascribe particular importance to impacts on wine quality, style, and designation do not appear to be signif- terroir are designated and evaluated on a sensorial expression. Thus, grapes grown icant contributors to terroir. Climate/ regional scale, how can there be a similar in different climates and geography might geography can affect wine style, and may terroir when there is such a wide diversity express organoleptic differences. contribute to differences in wine expres- of soil and land characteristics between sion that might be considered as part of vineyards, or even within a vineyard? VITICULTURAL AREA/ terroir. There are other factors that are Thus, in analyzing statements about the DESIGNATION often not mentioned as contributing to influence of soils on wine characteristics, wine expression specific to terroir, includ- it is important to draw a distinction Research efforts to find a link between ing grape variety (and cultivar or clone), between soil-derived terroir, and soil-in- viticultural area designation and terroir and microbial communities. fluenced grape quality. AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 27 not able to match the wines with the characteristics described by wine critics at any more than a random rate. Further, the presence of terroir has generally not proven predictive of the wine’s quality or consumer preference. This isn’t surprising since organoleptic perception of wine aroma and flavors is subjective, and thresholds of detection are individ- ual-specific. The American Wine Society’s Judge Training program, and similar GRAPE VARIETY efforts to provide education and training, are important since they strive to increase It is well known that the variety of grape fermentative organisms play a role consistency in wine analysis, which will will have a significant effect on the organ- in fermentation and can significantly af- progress the ability to uniformly assess oleptic properties of wine. Most grapes fect the chemical compounds produced. wine characteristics. express distinct varietal characteristics that Studies of ‘wild’ (non-innoculated) yeast are readily identifiable by sensory evalu- fermentations found that wild yeasts can CONCLUSION ation. Varietal expression is probably the significantly influence the organoleptic most important factor in how a wine is properties of wine. Studies also showed Winemaking is an enormous industry expressed, and could contribute to terroir. that the presence of ‘wild’ yeast added worth many billions of dollars. In 2016: complexity to the wine, even if commer- MICROBIAL COMMUNITIES cial yeast was used to complete fermen- 1. Wine shipments to the U.S. from all tation. During fermentation, each yeast production sources grew to 399 million Advances in scientific techniques have al- species and strain utilize different cases, with an estimated retail value of lowed faster and simpler identification of metabolic processes which produce dif- nearly $60 billion. species and strains of microbes. This has ferent chemical compounds. The different led to a wealth of new information about metabolic processes of the yeasts present, 2. France exported $9.4 billion worth the microbial community present on and interactions between types, appears of wine. grapes and in wineries, and their poten- to play a key role in production of differ- tial influences in winemaking. Research ential sensorially-detectable metabolites 3. The U.S. was the world’s largest has shown that the surface of grapes can which may express as unique terroir. wine market by volume. harbor a much larger and more diverse microbial community (over 10 different WINE JUDGING/ASSESSMENT With that kind of economic value, genera of bacteria and yeast have been countries have every incentive to market found) than previously realized. Research The majority of sensorially-based studies their wines as having unique qualities that also found that geographic and site- show that most people, even experienced set them apart. specific climatic conditions can deter- judges, cannot reliably and consistent- mine the microbial communities on ly agree on what defines a high-quality Verifying that wines can express terroir is grape surfaces and result in regionally wine, nor define the organoleptic qual- complicated by the lack of a universal specific microbial assemblages. ities that specific terroirs might exhibit. understanding of what terroir actually Many studies have found that judges not represents, the extremely complex Many of the microbes found on grapes only disagree but are also inconsistent: winemaking process, and the subjective and on winery equipment and surfaces often, a judge cannot repeat their scores nature of organoleptic wine analysis. The are fermentative organisms. These on identical wines. Wine consumers are long-held belief that terroir is the result

28 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG of specific soils, or soil characteristics, has Bear IJ, Kranzs ZH. 1965. Fatty acids from exposed Sumby KM, Grbin PR, Jiranek V. 2010. Microbial rock surfaces. Australian Journal of Chemistry. modulation of aromatic esters in wine: current been largely debunked. The belief that 18:915-17. knowledge and future prospects. Food Chemistry. terroir is partially definable by viticultural 121:1–16. area designation is likewise implausible. Bokulich NA, Thorngate JH, Richardson PM, Mills DA. 2013. Microbial biogeography of wine grapes Swiegers JH, Bartowsky EJ, Henschke PA, Pretorius The effects of climate/geographic area, is conditioned by cultivar, vintage, and climate. IS. 2005. Yeast and bacterial modulation of wine grape variety (and clone), vine manage- Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences aroma and flavor. Australian Journal of Grape Wine ment, and the actions of the winemaker, of the United States of America. November 15:139– Research. 11(2):139-173. 148; [Accessed August 18, 2017]. www.pnas.org/ can all impact wine characteristics, and content/111/1/E139.full.pdf. Trubek AB. 2008. The taste of place: a cultural may contribute to terroir. Therefore, any journey into terroir. Berkeley (CA): University of definition of terroir must include the Garijo P, Lopez R, Santamaria P, Ocon E, Olarte C, Sanz California Press. S, Gutierrez AR. 2011. Presence of enological viticultural and enological sciences. microorganisms in the grapes and the air of a Van Leeuwen C, Friant P, Chone X, Tregoat O, vineyard during the ripening period. European Food Koundouras S, Dubourdieu D. 2004. Influence of Recent studies appear to have found a Research and Technology. 233(2):359–365. climate, soil, and cultivar on terroir. American Journal of Enology and Viticulture. 55(3):207- probable link between site-specif- Gilbert JA, van der Lelie D, Zarraonaindia I. 2014. ic microbial assemblages present on Microbial terroir for wine grapes. Proceedings of Weil RL. 2007. Debunking critics’ wine words: can grapes and in wineries and wine expres- the National Academy of Sciences of the United amateurs distinguish the smell of asphalt from States of America. 11(1):5-6. www.pnas.org/ the taste of cherries? Journal of Wine Economics. sion. These microbial communities can content/111/1/5.full. 2(2):136–144. significantly influence fermentation and result in unique aromas and flavors in Goldstein R, Almenberg J, Dreber A, Emerson JW, White R, Balachandra L, Edis R, Chen D. 2007. The soil Herschkowitsch A, Katz J. 2008. Do more expensive component of terroir. Journal International des wine. Therefore, microbial communities wines taste better? Evidence from a large sample of Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin. 41(1):9-18. found on grapes and in wineries have blind tastings. Journal of Wine Economics. 3(1):1-9. the potential to result in unique flavors Hodgson RT. 2008. An examination of judge and aromas that could form the basis of reliability at a major U.S. wine competition. Journal terroir. Therefore, any definition of terroir of Wine Economics. 3(2):105-113. must also include the microbial About The Author Hodgson RT. 2009. An analysis of the concordance populations present. among 13 U.S. wine competitions. Journal of Wine Tim Post has worked for the New Economics. 4(1):1-9. York State Division of Fish and So, is terroir real? As discussed above, Wildlife as a Habitat Biologist for Knight S, Klaere S, Fedrizzi B, Goddard M. 2015. there is evidence that some site-specif- Regional microbial signatures positively correlate almost 30 years. He is currently ic factors can result in unique chemical with differential wine phenotypes: evidence for a taking enology and viticulture microbial aspect to terroir. Science Reports. 5:14233; composition in wine. These differences classes through the Viticulture and [accessed August 18, 2017]. www.nature.com/ in chemical composition can express articles/srep14233. Enology Science Technology as different aromas and flavors in wines. Alliance (VESTA) as well as pursuing Maltman A. 2013. Minerality in wine: a geological However, to be meaningful, the test for a Master of Science Degree in perspective. Journal of Wine Research. 24(3):169-181. whether or not terroir is real will need to Matthews MA. 2015. Terrior and other myths of Enology from Missouri State be based on organoleptic analysis of wine winegrowing. Oakland (CA): University of University. He is also an avid home California Press. aroma and flavors. If most wine-drinkers winemaker and brewer. He plans to can’t reliably or consistently detect or rec- Renouf V, Miot-Sertier C, Strehaiano P, Lonvaud- pursue winemaking as a second ognize the aromas and flavors associated Funel A. 2006. The wine microbial consortium: a real career in 2019. with a specific terroir, then what is the real terroir characteristic. Journal International Des Sciences De La Vigne Et Du Vin. 40(4):101–116. value of terroir, other than for marketing? Tim can be reached at: Saxton V. 2002. Calcium in viticulture - unravel- [email protected]. Bibliography: ling the mystique of French terroir. Wine Business Barata A, Malfeito-Ferreira M, Loureiro V. 2012. Monthly. September; [accessed August 18, 2017]. The microbial ecology of wine grape berries. Interna- www.winebusiness.com/wbm/?go=getArticle&- tional Journal of Food Microbiology. 153(3):243-259. dataId=20182

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 29 21 Wines to Watch Ellen Landis, CS, CSW TR Elliott | 2015 Burgonet Pinot Noir | Russian River Valley, California Rodney Strong Vineyards | 2014 Symmetry | Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California

Plush with precise balance, this remarkable wine is provocative and well defined. Aromas of red A sophisticated Bordeaux blend, crafted of 80% Cab Sauv, 8% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 4% Petit cherries lead to raspberries, earth notes, Sweetheart cherries, exotic spice, cherry cola, and wild Verdot and 3% Cab Franc. Scents of roasted coffee bean and black fruits start the parade. mushrooms dancing gracefully with a stream of minerality. Focused and pure, this Pinot Noir Intoxicating layers of bittersweet chocolate, black cherry, spiced plum jam, and black currant combines old world earthiness with new world fruitiness; beautifully crafted. unfold. The oak (from 20 months aging in 43% new French barrels) is well managed. Tightly Food pairing: Mahi Mahi with shitake mushroom butter | SRP: $48 | www.trelliott.com wound, decant if imbibing now, or cellar for years of enjoyment ahead.

Weisinger Family Winery | 2014 Estate Tempranillo | Rogue Valley, Oregon Food pairing: Truffle butter seared filet mignon | SRP: $55 | www.rodneystrong.com

This luxuriously textured Tempranillo paves the way with heady scents of dark fruit and spice. Stone Griffon Vineyard | 2013 Estate Reserve Tempranillo | Willamette Valley, Oregon Flavors of sweet black cherries, wild blackberries, dried plums, crushed tobacco leaf, star anise, underlying oak and peppery accents interlace, creating a savory masterpiece on the palate. This extraordinary 100% Tempranillo opens with red fruits and toast tempting you into the Firmly structured with plush tannins and a zesty finish that never gives up. glass. Fresh cherries, red raspberries, earthiness, and a twist of multi-colored peppercorns light up the palate with lip-smacking flavors. Oak nuances (20 months in 75% new French and Food pairing: Classic lasagna | SRP: $38 | www.weisingers.com American oak) are well integrated. Ethereal, lively and meticulously balanced through the forever finish. Centennial Vineyards | NV Brut Traditionelle | Southern Highlands, Australia This multi-vintage sparkling wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 3% Pinot Food pairing: Serrano ham wrapped grilled figs | SRP: $48 | www.stonegriffonvineyard.com Meunier, from cool climate vineyards in Bowral, New South Wales. Aromas of fresh baked bread engage the senses. Layers of juicy grapefruit, stone fruit, and strawberry pie meld with fresh Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg | 2016 Grüner Veltliner | Kamptal, Austria herbs, and the stream of tiny bubbles is everlasting. Well balanced and persistent through the lifted finish. This dry Grüner is divinely fresh and elegant. Full of uplifting flavors on the palate, as notes of baby lettuce leaves, cape gooseberries, spice-laced tropical fruit compote, hints of herbs and Food pairing: Gruyere/roasted cauliflower quiche | SRP: $34.99 | www.centennial.net.au white pepper interlink with a nice mineral note and bright acidity. A perfect refresher to sip on a warm summer day. Tertini Wines | 2017 Pinot Blanc | Southern Highlands, Australia Food pairing: White asparagus/shrimp salad | SRP: $20 | www.gobelsburg.at The florals on the nose of this skillfully crafted Pinot Blanc will capture your senses. Dazzling the palate are layers of peach, ripe melon, crisp green apple, lemon curd, savory spice, mineral notes Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery | 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon and a hint of nuttiness. The mouthfeel is a lavish, and vibrant acids keep it energized. It oozes Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, California varietal characteristics through the finish, which lingers memorably. Food pairing: Peach glazed chicken breast | SRP: $30 | www.tertiniwines.com.au Here is an intensely built Cab Sauv blended with 8% Cab Franc and 7% Merlot. This gem shows off the terroir of this long growing season region in spades. Deep fruit on the nose segues to Artemis Wines | 2015 Close Vine Pinot Noir | Southern Highlands, Australia plum, black raspberry, black currant, licorice, herbs, spiced oak and earth coating the palate. Tightly wound with a firm backbone of tannins. Decant if you pop the cork now, or wait From low-yield vineyards comes this artful Pinot Noir. Floral and earthy on the nose, followed patiently, there are rewards to gain by cellaring. by cherry, strawberry and pomegranate fruit accented by exotic spice delighting the senses on entry. Elements of forest floor and blanched almonds add complexity on mid palate. Well Food pairing: Black Angus sirloin steak | SRP: $52 | www.smithmadrone.com balanced and seductive, with underlying oak nicely placed in the background. Talley Vineyards | 2016 “Bishop’s Peak” Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay Food pairing: Mushroom gnocchi | SRP: $45 | www.artemiswines.com.au Edna Valley, California

Ramey Wine Cellars | 2015 Claret | Napa Valley/Mendocino/Russian River Valley, California This well-honed cool climate Chardonnay opens with a dream inducing aroma. Stone fruit, This rich blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 6% Syrah, 4% Malbec and 4% Petit sweet Meyer lemon, juicy mandarin orange, mineral notes and shades of subtle oak create a Verdot shows off purity of fruit and spicy notes at first enticing whiff. Black currant, dark plums, lively mouthful of thirst-quenching flavors. Balanced, pure and clean; a sunny, invigorating quaff. tobacco, savory spice and pleasing oak nuances build on the palate, with earthy elements adding further dimension. Finely grained tannins and keen balance speak to its age-worthiness. Food pairing: Hamachi avocado crudo | SRP: $20 | www.talleyvineyards.com Food pairing: Wagyu beef cheeks | SRP: $42 | www.rameywine.com

30 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Robert Ramsay Cellars | 2014 Red Heaven Counoise | Red Mountain, Washington Ryan Patrick Wines | 2016 Olsen Brothers Vineyard Riesling | Yakima Valley, Washington

Aromatic and flavor packed is this Counoise, a key blending grape in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The classic wet stone aroma stimulates the senses. Snappy, lean and minerally with nectarine, I find it remarkably pleasing as a stand-alone variety, and here is a fine example. This impres- lime peel, white peach, and citrus blossom accents flowing easily on the palate, supported by a sive rendition offers up red raspberries, plums, Bing cherries, pomegranate seeds, anise, freshly firm backbone of acidity. This well-crafted, terrific value wine remains glossy and invigorating milled black pepper and earthiness melding in harmony. Well-structured and delicious through through the long-lasting finish. the lingering finish. Food pairing: Gemelli butternut squash pasta | SRP: $12 | www.ryanpatrickwines.com Food pairing: Braised lamb shank | SRP: $35 | www.robertramsay.com Kriselle Cellars | 2016 Sauvignon Blanc | Rogue Valley, Oregon Walla Walla Vintners | 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon | Walla Walla Valley, Washington Splendid aromatics are fully engaging, and convincingly display varietal character. The profile A basket full of fresh wild berries on the nose is mirrored on the palate, from first sip of on the palate follows suit, with grapefruit, melon, lemon-lime, and tropical fruit melding with a this alluring Bordeaux blend, composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 5% Cabernet delightful level of grassiness. Bracing acidity keeps it vivacious, while 30% fermenting in Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Lean, pure and juicy with cassis, fresh tobacco, plum, black cherry, seasoned oak adds a gratifying roundness to the wine. Bright and refreshing, you’ll be reaching savory spice and underlying oak. Complex and well structured, it finishes long, with chocolate for more. mint highlights. Food pairing: Lemon butter/garlic steamed clams | SRP: $23 | www.krisellecellars.com Food pairing: Pan roasted veal chops with Cab Sauv reduction sauce SRP: $45 www.wallawallavintners.com BARRA of Mendocino | 2015 Petite Sirah | Mendocino, California This noteworthy, darkly-hued Petite Sirah is crafted of fruit from certified organic vineyards. Paco & Lola | 2016 Albariño | Rías Baixas, Spain Opening with aromas of damp earth and bramble fruits, it struts forth with an air of confidence. Firm tannins provide excellent framework for the ripe blackberry, mulberry and blueberry fruit This sleek and full of life Albariño imparts a charming aroma. Fragrant summer wild flowers at the core. Nicely integrated oak, earthy tones and bittersweet chocolate add depth, and the make way for flavorsome tropical fruit, chopped basil, crunchy pear, lemon curd, understated acid level is finely tuned. Approachable now, and age-worthy. saline notes, and fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. Vivid and streamlined on the palate with a silky texture and crisp acids. Finishes with a perky twist of lemon zest. Food pairing: Smoked leg of lamb | SRP: $22 | www.barraofmendocino.com

Food pairing: Pan-seared scallops | SRP: $16 www.pacolola.com Aridus Wine Company | 2016 Malvasia Bianca | Mimbres Valley, New Mexico

Spangler Vineyards | 2013 Petite Sirah | Southern Oregon Beautiful florals on the nose are reminiscent of a fragrant spring bouquet. Jasmine notes continue their presence on the palate, accompanied by succulent tropical fruits of lychee, The roasted coffee bean aroma kicks this wine off with pizazz, awakening the senses. Filling the pineapple and guava, cardamom spice, and a touch of sweet citrus. The texture is satin-like, palate are layers of boysenberry, Damson plum, cacao nibs, black licorice, blueberry, crushed and lively acidity steers it to a zippy close. pink and white peppercorns, and toasty notes supported by sweet tannins. Full bodied and intense, it shows good grip on the long finish. Food pairing: Orange ginger chicken | SRP: $36.75 www.ariduswineco.com

Food pairing: Mushroom/wild rice stuffed bell peppers | SRP: $35 | www.spanglervineyards.com La Chablisienne | 2013 Chablis Cuvée La Sereine | Burgundy, France About The Author Leading off with an expressive citrusy aroma, this Chablis explodes with vibrancy on the palate. Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified Crunchy Granny Smith apples, juicy white grapefruit, sliced nectarines, lemon zest, and herbal sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She accents are bolstered by striking acidity and a solid thread of minerality. Fresh and crisp with spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and plenty of energy from first to last enlivening sip. sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award Food pairing: Roasted beetroot and Boursin cheese tower | SRP: $22 | www.chablisienne.fr winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the Spindrift Cellars | 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir | Willamette Valley, Oregon hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Ellen is a Fresh and bright, with a high-toned aroma of red fruit and spice rising from the glass as it moderator for highly acclaimed wine events, judges approaches the nose. Satisfying on the palate, where red cherries, pomegranate, cranberry, oak numerous regional, national and international wine spice (aged 18 months in 25% new French oak), minerality, and a touch of herbs interlace with a pronounced level of acidity. Nicely crafted with good lift on the finish. competitions each year, and creates and executes wine seminars for individuals and corporations. She has traveled Food pairing: Braised pork ragu | SRP: $32 | www.spindriftcellars.com extensively to wine regions around the globe.

Contact Ellen at [email protected]

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 31 newornoteworthy by Jim Rink

100 THINGS TO DO IN NORTHERN One of my favorite entries in the book — States, Muscaglione surmised a unique MICHIGAN WINE COUNTRY number 14 — is kissing the moose at parallel: low-yield harvests produced not Sleder’s Family Tavern in Traverse only sought after wines but teas as well. City. Founded in 1882, it’s the oldest continually operating restaurant in the “The flavors and health benefits of teas, like state. The moose, whose name is Randolph, wines, are based upon the climate and soils is stuffed, and he is not on the menu. within which they are grown,” said Musca- glione, who recently launched chagardens. 100 Things to Do In Traverse City Before You com, an online and offline tea company. Die is available at amazon.com. Current retail price is $16. “The Daba Mountain area is extremely rugged and has been that way for centuries SOMMELIER TRADES where plants are left to grow in their natural FINE WINE FOR TEA environment. As in wine, the more stress the grapes, or in this case the tea plant goes Traverse City is the small town with big Trading grapevines for tea leaves, wine through, the more selective and controlled events in the northwest corner of the lower tastings for tea ceremonies, and Bordeaux, the yield will be. Our tea is hand-picked peninsula of Michigan. It’s well known for France, for Daba Mountain, China, noted from an eco-region protected by the World the annual National Cherry Festival and sommelier Joe Muscaglione knows a thing Wildlife Federation (WWF) providing Traverse City Film Festival (founded by or two about providing rare beverages to aspiring gourmands and tea connoisseurs firebrand filmmaker Michael Moore), but it an emerging market. a new beverage experience.” also sits in close proximity to the Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula AVAs. Last year, Cha Gardens obtained an exclusive North American license to sell So…if you decide to tour the wine country rare, low-yield, high-end teas from the there this summer, we heartily recommend Daba Mountain region of China. 100 Things to Do In Traverse City Before You Die by award-winning travel writer Kim “The extraordinarily rich flavors of these Schneider. Despite the morbid title and teas are also high in selenium, a proven sense of urgency, the book is chock full of antioxidant with medicinal qualities. things to do year-round in the Traverse Having spent the past 30 years developing It tastes great and it’s good for you,” City area, organized by food and drink, beverage programs at Babbo NYC, where Muscaglione said. music and entertainment, sports and he worked closely with owner Joe recreation, culture and history and Bastianch; Winebow, a premier Italian wine Cha Gardens top tea offering includes shopping and fashion. importer; and TAO, Las Vegas, one of the Qinba Wu Hao, hand-picked at 2,100-2,300 most successful restaurants in the United meter elevation in Daba Mountain, located

32 | WINE JOURNAL :: SUMMER :: 20182018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

in the ancient province of Shaanxi near “Advertising is crucial to the the birthplace of Chinese legend, restaurant business, espe- newornoteworthy Shennong, the legendary emperor who cially in Metro D.C. where by Jim Rink discovered tea. happy hours are popular and competition among VIRGINIA RESTAURATEUR SUES eateries is fierce,” Tracy said. OVER “HAPPY HOUR” GAG RULE “But Virginia would rather punish me than encourage Virginia’s happy hour advertising law is the economic prosperity.” target of a federal First Amendment lawsuit filed today by Washington, D.C. Pacific Legal Foundation, area, restaurateur Chef Geoff Tracy. which defends individual liberties nationwide, represents Tracy free Currently, Backpack Wine offers multiple The law prohibits placing prices on of charge. PLF argues that Virginia’s happy unique Washington-based canned wines, happy hour advertising, as well as using any hour law not only harms Chef Geoff’s including: terminology other than “happy hour” and bottom line, it’s also unconstitutional. “drink specials.” Nor can business owners • Cheeky Rose™, a Washington State Pinot promote “two-for-one” drinks—they must “The First Amendment clearly protects Blanc and Sangiovese Rose blend, is a be referred to as “half-priced” drinks instead. Americans’ ability to speak truthfully and drier expression, with a touch of peach, freely about their business practices,” said strawberry and rose petal; a clean crisp PLF attorney Anastasia Boden. “This law blush wine, it’s a bright treat with an reflects outdated notions about alcohol open grill in the summer or rich foods in best left in the Prohibition days.” the winter.

BACKPACK WINE TO BE CANNED • Snappy White™, a Washington State Riesling based blend, has a touch of Backpack Wine is among the first to offer sweetness and weight that finishes with quality wines from the state of Washington refreshing acidity. This balanced white in take-anywhere, easy-open, recyclable delivers notes of green apple and Asian cans. Backpack Wine lets you skip the cork, pear, making it perfect for cocktail hour grab a pack and take their quality wines or with spicy summer dishes. with you, no matter how far off (or on!) This means ads promoting specials such the beaten path you want to go. Currently • Rowdy Red, a tasty blend of Washington as “Wine down Wednesdays” and “$5 Backpack Wine distributes its products State Merlot and Syrah, shows dark cherry Margaritas” are perfectly legal at Tracy’s through retail outlets in 30 states, as well on the nose. It drinks velvety smooth restaurants in Maryland and D.C. But at as its online store at backpack-wine.com. showing black cherry, plum and a touch of Chef Geoff’s Tysons Corner in Vienna, During 2017, the company had production spice. Chill a bit and enjoy anywhere. Virginia, the exact same ads violate state of approximately 20,000 cases with growth law and could lead to fines and suspension anticipated in 2018. For more information, visit: of his liquor license. www.backpack-wine.com.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL :: SUMMER : 2018 | 33 ADVERTISE IN THE AWS WINE JOURNAL TODAY! When you advertise in the Wine Journal, you align your brand with the oldest and largest consumer- based wine appreciation organization in North America. Our articles are fresh, creative and educational. We continually work with our writers to deliver articles that educate our readers and keep them engaged in the wine industry. Issues include articles on… People, places, events and trends in the wine industry The art and science of winemaking for amateurs and professionals Fascinating facts and information about wine and wine tasting Travel stories from romantic wineries to exotic locals Food, recipes and complimentary wine parings to please any palate

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