Bbq & Zin Iii Chambourcin the Ins & Outs of Fermentation
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THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY SUMMER 2018 BBQ & ZIN III CHAMBOURCIN THE INS & OUTS OF FERMENTATION THE “G” WINE THE GRUNER ASCENDANCY A LYCHEE FROSE´ TERROIR AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 1 JOIN US NOVEMBER 1 - 3, 2018 2018 AWS NATIONAL CONFERENCE BUFFALO, NEW YORK Questions? Contact our National Conference Chair - Diane Meyer [email protected] or 937.558.6559 americanwinesociety.org 2 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 21 | Roger Morris Editor’s Note The Grüner Ascendancy According to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Park- Last September, I travelled to Vienna to take er was an American poet, writer, critic, part in a new Vinexpo initiative called and satirist, best known for her wit, “Explorer,” whose purpose it is to bring 6 wisecracks and eye for 20th-century selected global wine buyers to an under-ap- urban foibles.” In other words, my kind preciated region or country to meet with its of woman. In this issue, we focus on wine producers, just as the real Vinexpo does three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, on a worldwide scale at its huge, semi-annu- Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. al expositions in Bordeaux and Hong Kong. 6 | Eric Miller BBQ & Zin III 24 | Jim Rink Lychee Frosé — I was working my way back from Mexico last stay frosty this summer winter when it occurred to me that I could turn a long drive into a passionate quest Wine purists may want to look the other 10 if I resolved the Great American Asada way, but there’s a chilling trend — frozen Quandry: Does Zinfandel kick ass with BBQ? rosé or rosé on ice. Leading the charge is Rosé Piscine, the original still French rosé 10 | J. Stephen Casscles specifically made to drink over ice. Chambourcin — a versatile red hybrid 25 | Timothy Post Chambourcin, also known as J.S. 26-205, is Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing? a versatile red wine grape variety that was developed by Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) The ability of wine to express terroir is probably sometime during the 1950s. an oft-debated topic in wine enthusiast circles. Those who promote the 14 | Kristine Austin existence of terroir in wine typically state 14 The Ins and Outs of Fermentation that it is an expression of the soils upon which the grapes are grown, and/or the I’ve been fortunate to work in many attributes of the land. different wineries in many different parts of the world and it has been both confusing 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW and enlightening at the same time. Every 21 Wines to Watch winemaker has a different prideful opinion on the best way to ferment. In her continuing column, Ellen Landis selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any 18 | Michael Schafer, CSW occasion or celebration. The “G” Wine 32 | Jim Rink One of the greatest wines on the planet New or Noteworthy 21 to pair with exotic or spicy food “don’t get no respect” on many wine lists. Traverse City is the small town with big A famous Alsatian winemaker once events in the northwest corner of the characterized Gewürztraminer as “the lower peninsula of Michigan. Liberace of the wine world.” 25 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 50 NO. 2 · SUMMER 2018 Published by The American Wine Society, a non-profit corporation, “A hangover is the wrath of grapes.” PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 — Dorothy Parker Single copies $5.00 Copyright © 2018 by AWS, Inc. ccording to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Parker was an American poet, writer, critic, Reproduction or use of the editorial and satirist, best known for her wit, wisecracks and eye for 20th-century or pictorial content without written A urban foibles.” In other words, my kind of woman. In this issue, we focus on permission is prohibited. three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. Whether Library of Congress Class Number: they are wrathful or not we’ll let Dorothy decide. TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Publisher On the travel front, Eric Miller recently found himself zigging and zagging David Falchek between the Rio Grand and the Atlantic Ocean to answer the simple Editor question: “Does Zinfandel kick a** with BBQ?” In the end, naturally, was Jim Rink Hedonistic Happiness. Contributing Writers Kristine Austin, J. Stephen Casscles, If you’re interested in the ins and outs of fermentation, our very own in-house Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Eric Miller, winemaker Kristine Austin has a little secret: there may not be one “best” way to Roger Morris, Timothy Post, Jim Rink, ferment, but with a little TLC yeast bacteria can be your best friend. Michael Schafer, CSW Also in this issue, Roger Morris takes a look at an “under-appreciated” grape that Editorial Office is still a rookie on the international wine scene: Grüner Veltliner. Stephen Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive Casscles examines a versatile red hybrid known as Chambourcin and Michael Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 BECOME A Schafer gives us the backstory on “the Liberace of the wine world,” AKA the [email protected] “G” wine, AKA Gewürtraminer. Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing? We continue to examine the topic of terroir, accompanied by return postage. first introduced in the spring issue. In this article, among other things, Timothy Advertising Office Post suggests the source of minerality in wine may be due to fatty acids on the PO Box 889 rock’s surface. Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 As always, we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this issue, (fax) 570.344.4825 executivedirector@ Ellen features wines from Austria, Australia, California, France, New Mexico, americanwinesociety.org Oregon, Spain and Washington. Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range from $12 to $55. Creative | Production 404.925.2677 The Blue Guy, LLC Stay thirsty, [email protected] theblueguy.com 4 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services Director of Jay Bileti Vice President Educational Services Joe Broski Executive Director AWS ACTIVITIES Aaron Mandel David Falchek AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Secretary Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Leanne Wheeler Joe Dautlick cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–1970 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–1972 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–1974 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–1976 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008-2009 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2010-2011 Michael A. Farren Gary C. Pavlis Willis L. Parker appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at 1985–1986 1999 2012-2014 connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by Lewis H. France, Jr. Gayle M. Darugh Jane M. Duralia the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1987–1988 2000 2015-2016 Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Charles E. Hastings Frank C. Aquilino amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. 1989–1990 2001 Alton L. Long Pamela J. 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