The Isan Saga

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The Isan Saga THE ISAN SAGA: THE INHABITANTS OF RURAL NORTHEAST THAILAND AND THEIR STRUGGLE FOR IDENTITY, EQUALITY AND ACCEPTANCE (1964–2004) A Thesis Presented to the Faculty of San Diego State University In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Arts in Asian Studies by Ronald L. Myers Summer 2005 SAN DIEGO STATE UNIVERSITY The Undersigned Faculty Committee Approves the Thesis of Ronald L. Myers: The Isan Saga: The Inhabitants of Rural Northeast Thailand and Their Struggle for Identity, Equality and Acceptance (1964–2004) (Original hand-signed by Dr. Wawrytko) Sandra Wawrytko, Chair Department of Asia Pacific Studies (Original hand-signed by Dr. Wittenborn) Allen Wittenborn Department of Asia Pacific Studies (Original hand-signed by Dr. Oades) Rizalino Oades, Co-Chair Department of History (Original hand-signed on 8-24-05) Approval Date iii Copyright © 2005 by Ronald L. Myers All Rights Reserved iv DEDICATION This paper is dedicated to the betterment of the village-dwelling Isan people of rural Northeast Thailand—with whom I spent some of the most rewarding years of my life—in hopes that it will contribute in some way to the understanding of their plight, and in doing so, help advance their cause, that of finding the sense of wellbeing that they have so long sought after, both for themselves and their posterity. v Though I may be poverty-stricken, I refuse to be a pauper. —An old Lao-Isan maxim (tueng maen khoi si tuk lai, khoi ka boh yaum jon) vi ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS The Isan Saga: The Inhabitants of Rural Northeast Thailand and Their Struggle for Identity, Equality and Acceptance (1964–2004) by Ronald L. Myers Master of Arts in Asian Studies San Diego State University, 2005 The village-dwelling Isan people of rural northeast Thailand are in an ongoing struggle for personal identity, prosperity, and equality, as well as a desire for respect and acceptance by their fellow countrymen. Presently over twenty-one million in population (as of 2004), the Isan people have taken the initiative over the last several decades to seize various opportunities and are currently emerging from their poverty-stricken agrarian roots and lowly social position to becoming the formally-recognized labor class of Thailand. This ongoing process is occurring despite long-standing economic exploitation and neglect, as well as hindrances placed in their way by their more urbane, status-conscious Central Thai cousins, who have customarily dismissed the Isan dwellers as being simpleminded and ignorant. Notwithstanding, their progress is now clearly evidenced by an increasing acceptance by the Thai, together with enjoying a greater significance on a national scale in socio-cultural, economic and political terms. vii TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE ABSTRACT ......................................................................................................................... vi LIST OF FIGURES .............................................................................................................. xi ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ...................................................................................................xii CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION TO ISAN: THE PEOPLE AND REGION OF NORTHEAST THAILAND ....................................................................................... 1 Their King and Government .................................................................................3 Their Land............................................................................................................4 Their Heritage ......................................................................................................5 Their Beliefs.........................................................................................................6 Their Emergence and Current Situation ................................................................7 Recent Developments ...........................................................................................9 Tourism ......................................................................................................... 9 Industry ..........................................................................................................9 Conclusion .........................................................................................................10 2 ORIGINS AND HISTORICAL ROOTS OF THE ISAN REGION AND ITS INHABITANTS ...................................................................................................... 11 Ancient Origins .................................................................................................. 11 Prehistoric .................................................................................................... 12 Cultural Interchanges: Through the First Millennium .................................... 13 Ancient Cultures and Kingdoms of The Central Mekong River Basin ................ 15 Funan (Mon) Kingdom ................................................................................. 16 Third Century B.C.—Buddhism in Southeast Asia ........................................... 17 Early Cultures, Religions, and Art Forms in Isan ................................................ 19 Other Early Kingdom-Settlements ...................................................................... 20 Champa Kingdom (Cham, Sui) ..................................................................... 20 Khmer Kingdom (Khmer) ............................................................................. 20 Candapuri Kingdom (Mon)........................................................................... 20 viii Dvaravati Kingdom (Mon)............................................................................ 21 Khmer Domination ....................................................................................... 21 Tenth Through Fourteenth Centuries ............................................................22 Thai Advent—Twelfth Century ....................................................................22 Sukhothai Kingdom (Thai) ........................................................................... 22 Thai-Lao Scripts and Writing Systems ..........................................................23 Isan Region Not Incorporated in the Sukhothai Kingdom .............................. 25 Lan Chang Kingdom—Forerunner to the Isan Region ................................... 25 Laotian and Khmer Kingdoms—Isan's Heritage ............................................ 25 Decline and Fall of the Khmer Empire ..........................................................26 Northeast Thailand Develops Its Own Identity ..............................................26 1500s and 1600s ........................................................................................... 27 Isan Peasant Revolt .............................................................................................. 28 1700s to 1800s ............................................................................................. 28 Early 1900s—The Monthon System and Rebellion ....................................... 30 Poverty and Neglect ........................................................................................... 31 Communist Activity ........................................................................................... 31 Present Period ....................................................................................................32 Conclusions and Observations ............................................................................32 Revisionist History and Other Discrepancies ......................................................33 Dichotomous Relationships Between the Thai and Isan ....................................... 35 3 EXPLORING CATALYSTS FOR SOCIO-ECONOMIC CHANGE (1960 ONWARD) .............................................................................................................. 36 Foreword ...........................................................................................................36 The Region and the People— Geographical Setting ............................................ 37 The Land ...................................................................................................... 37 The Mekong River ........................................................................................ 38 The Climate .................................................................................................. 38 Regional Inequities Observed by Outsiders ......................................................... 39 Communist Threats and Government Reaction .............................................40 Political-Related Activity in the Northeast .................................................... 40 Turning of the Tide ....................................................................................... 41 ix The Vietnam War Period and Foreign Investment ......................................... 42 U.S. Air Force Bases in Northeast Thailand ..................................................42 4 DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMS AND FOREIGN AID ........................................... 44 Various Rural Development Projects .................................................................. 45 Road Building and Other Development Programs .........................................45 Health, Medical, Welfare and Other Assistance Programs ............................. 46 Mobile Rural Development Units (MDU) .....................................................46 Development
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