Hillary Trail Waitakere Ranges Regional Park

09 366 2000 www.arc.govt.nz 1 Introduction

The Hillary Trail is a spectacular multi-day The trail was developed through the joint effort of the elected members, rangers and officers of tramping trip through native forest and along the Auckland Regional Council between 2005 and 2009. The ARC sees the creation of the the wild coast of the Waitakere Ranges Hillary Trail as an important legacy for the people Regional Park. Beginning and ending not of Auckland and New Zealand. far from metropolitan Auckland, this self- The ARC thanks the Hillary family for the use of guided 70km trail is a challenging wilderness Sir Edmund Hillary’s name. adventure designed to introduce families and young people, properly prepared, to the joys The Hillary connection The Hillary family has links of multi-day tramping. with the Waitakere Ranges going back to 1925, when The ranges are alive with history and the trail Sir Edmund’s father-in-law, Jim Rose, built a bach at links heritage areas connected with Te Kawerau Anawhata. Since then, five a Maki and the decades of kauri logging. It generations have come to passes through a wide range of environments – the west coast to walk and regenerating rainforest, stands of mature kauri, explore, to dream and to coastal forest, rocky shores and black-sand refresh their spirits. In 1981 beaches. And it seems as if around every corner Jim Rose wrote, ‘My family there is another magnificent view. look forward to the time when we will be able to walk from The inspiration behind the trail is New Zealand’s Huia to Muriwai on public great mountaineer, explorer and loved citizen, Sir walking tracks like the old time Edmund Hillary, who came to the rugged hills Maori could do.’ With the Hillary and beaches of the Waitakere Ranges to plan and Trail it is possible to do just that. prepare for his great expeditions. In taking on the challenge of the four-day journey, trampers embark on their own expedition of self-discovery and adventure. Find out more about the Hillary Trail: Completing the trail will be a test of determination, for many, a personal Everest. • Visit the ARC website www.arc.govt.nz • Phone the ARC on 09 366 2000 for information and bookings • Talk to an ARC park ranger • Drop into the Arataki Visitor Centre, talk to the staff and see the displays

2 3 What to expect

The Hillary Trail is a challenging four day/three The day from Craw Campground to night hike. You can complete the trail at any time Muriwai Beach is long and hard. In the of year although, in winter, the short days, cool future we will have a campground to break this weather and muddy tracks will make the hike leg of the journey. much more demanding. Parts of the Te Henga Walkway are steep and It is likely to rain for at least part of your trip. slippery. Beyond O’Neill Bay there is no shelter Many tracks will be steep, rutted, ‘rooty’ and from the elements for about 6.5km, and nowhere slippery, and you may be up to your ankles in mud. to go if you get into difficulty. In winter, this leg is There are unbridged stream crossings which may more difficult to complete during daylight hours. If include water above the knee. You can experience you are not fit enough for a very long, tough day, a variety of surfaces, including gravel and steps, if the weather is wet or windy, or if you are likely and you will also have to walk for short periods on to run short of daylight, you should not attempt public roads, some of them busy. it. Instead finish at one of the pick-up points marked on the map. The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy the experience. The days are long. You will be climbing The Te Henga Walkway may be closed for lambing up and down hills and walking up to 27km in a between 1 August and 1 October. day. You will have to carry a heavy pack with your Go to www.doc.govt.nz for more information. tent, sleeping bag, extra clothing and four days’ worth of food. The walking times in the track notes are Follow me... approximate. They are dependent on track conditions, your fitness, group size and weather You’ll know you’re on the Hillary conditions. They do not include time to take the Trail if you’re following track suggested side trips or to have long breaks. markers like the one shown here. Markers are positioned at Although the official gateway to the Hillary Trail intervals along the trail and at track is the Arataki Visitor Centre and the trail ends at intersections. Muriwai Beach, you can vary the route and the number of days it takes according to transport, fitness and weather. Road walking: extreme care is essential when walking on roads. High visibility clothing and reflective material on packs is strongly recommended.

Arataki Visitor Karamatura Whatipu Pararaha Karekare Piha Craw Te Henga/ Muriwai Centre Campground Campground Campground Bethells Beach Beach

400m400 400m

350

300m300 300m

250

Series2 200m200 200m

150

100m100 100m

50

0 0m 8 0m 5.8 6.7 12 16 20 24 28 31 35 39 43 47 51 55 59 63 66 0.480.921.361.822.252.693.133.584.024.474.925.35 6.23 7.127.57 8.458.919.359.7810.210.711.111.6 12.412.913.313.814.214.715.115.5 16.416.917.317.818.218.619.119.5 20.420.921.321.722.222.623.123.5 24.424.825.325.726.226.627.127.5 28.428.829.329.730.230.6 31.531.932.432.833.333.734.134.6 35.535.936.436.837.337.738.138.6 39.539.940.440.841.241.742.142.6 43.543.944.344.845.245.746.146.6 47.447.948.348.849.249.750.150.5 51.451.952.352.853.253.654.154.5 55.455.956.356.757.257.658.158.5 59.459.860.360.761.261.662.162.5 63.463.864.364.765.265.6 66.566.967.467.868.368.769.2 10km 20km 30km 40km 50km 60km 70km 4 5 What to take

You will need to be largely self-sufficient for four Food – high in energy value, light in weight and days (some supplies are available on day three at quick to cook the Piha Store). Quality clothing and footwear, and Water treatment – chemical purification or water a comfortable backpack, are important. It doesn’t filter, or extra fuel for boiling matter how warm the weather is the day you leave, Personal EPIRB – Emergency Position Indicating or how good the forecast, the following equipment Radio Beacon (optional). is essential. In autumn, winter and spring you will also need to This booklet and information from the ARC website take more layers of warm clothing, a beanie and Your camping permit mittens or gloves, waterproof over-trousers and a Waitakere Ranges Regional Park Recreation Map warmer sleeping bag. – available from the Arataki Visitor Centre A hiking pack with a waterproof liner inside Accommodation it (liners that double as survival bags can be bought at outdoors shops) Clothing – warm, quick-drying clothes made of There are three ARC campgrounds designated for modern synthetic materials or wool. You will the Hillary Trail: Karamatura, Pararaha and Craw. need one set to walk in and another to change They are basic campgrounds with no showers or into when you get to the campground. You may cooking facilities. Sites cost $5 per adult per night not be able to dry wet clothing overnight. and must be booked and paid for before starting Boots – sturdy, comfortable walking boots that the trail. have been well broken in Campground Water supply Toilets Maximum group Raincoat – fully waterproof with hood booking

Waterproof over-trousers (optional) Karamatura Stream Composting 10 Swimwear and small towel (optional) Pararaha Stream Composting 10 Sun hat and sunglasses Craw Roof Vault 10 Cellphone and camera (optional) Tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat Important note: Stream and roof water must be Torch with spare batteries boiled, chemically treated or filtered before drinking. Cooking stove, lighter or matches in a waterproof container, and fuel Other accommodation options Cooking pot and pot scrubber for cleaning up There are other options to shorten your days or Eating and drinking utensils take alternate routes. The ARC has lodges, two Large water bottle baches and four other campgrounds along the trail. There are more structured campgrounds Toiletries – including toilet paper at Piha and Muriwai Beach, and private lodges, First-aid kit – including sunscreen, insect campgrounds and B&Bs at settlements close to repellent, medication, blister kit, bandages, as the route. well as wasp-sting treatment if you are allergic Survival kit – including survival blanket, whistle, Go to www.arc.govt.nz/hillarytrail for alternative paper and pencil and spare food accommodation options and links, inquire at Rubbish bag - please take your rubbish (including the Arataki Visitor Centre or phone the ARC on sanitary products) with you. 09 366 2000.

6 More booking information on page 35 7 Climate statistics from Arataki Visitor Centre 25 9

8 Safety 20 7 Your safety on the Hillary Trail is your responsibility. 6 Rangers do not patrol the tracks or the campgrounds 15 5 at specific times.

4 10 Leave details of your trip (return date and time,

3 Millimetres planned route and party member names) with a Degrees Celcius 2 responsible person and check in with them when 5 you return. 1

0 0 If a serious illness or injury occurs, dial the 111 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec emergency number. Large parts of the ranges have Mean daily rainfall in mm Mean daily high in o C o no cellphone coverage – if you can’t get reception, Mean daily low in C try the nearest high point or send for help. Weather Wasps may be a problem in late summer/autumn. If allergic, bring antihistamines. The Waitakere Ranges are an elevated plateau with a temperate climate. Parts of the forest receive Stream crossings over 50 per cent more rain than central Auckland. In winter there is a high chance of rain every day. There are a number of unbridged stream crossings The weather can change quickly. The coastal on the Hillary Trail. If it is raining and you come sections of the trail are exposed to prevailing to a river that is running high and fast, do not westerly winds, especially the Te Henga Walkway. attempt to cross. Just wait. The rivers are steep and short – they rise quickly when it rains and The best times of year to walk the trail are summer drop quickly when it stops. and early autumn, when rainfall is lower and the tracks are less muddy. In warm weather, however, take care to drink plenty of water to avoid Swimming dehydration. West coast beaches have tempting surf but the currents can be dangerous. Swim only where Daylight lifeguards are patrolling. Always swim between the flags. Each day on the Hillary Trail you will have to cover long distances on sometimes rough trails. Be realistic about your walking speed and set out There are five surf lifesaving clubs: Karekare, Piha, early enough to get to the campground before United North Piha, Bethells Beach and Muriwai dark. This is particularly important in winter when Beach. They patrol beaches on weekends and daylight hours are shorter. public holidays from Labour Weekend to Easter or Anzac weekend (Piha). There are weekday patrols over the peak summer period. There are no patrols Day four, from Craw to Muriwai, is in winter. difficult to complete during winter daylight hours. Seriously consider the alternative finish at For more details of surf lifesaving hours go to Swanson (p34). www.arc.govt.nz/hillarytrail 8 9 Caring for Waitakere Ranges Natural history Regional Park Geology • Protect plants and animals. Do not damage or As it takes its L-shaped path across the Waitakere remove vegetation. Ranges, the Hillary Trail crosses the eastern slopes • Dogs are not allowed on the Hillary Trail and at ARC of a massive volcano that first erupted from the campgrounds. Day walkers may be able to take sea floor 22 million years ago. At over 3000 metres dogs on a lead on some tracks that make up the high and about 50km in diameter, the Waitakere trail. Check the ARC website. Volcano was one of New Zealand’s largest ever • No open fires (gas cookers only). volcanoes. • Keep to the tracks. Stay on the tracks to minimise The black sand found on the west coast is mostly damage to fragile environments. volcanic sand from eruptions in the central North • Respect cultural sites. There are many sites of Island, Taranaki and swept down the Waikato River cultural and historic significance, particularly to and north up the coast. This magnetic iron sand tangata whenua. has built up into extensive dune systems with • Remove your rubbish. This is a rubbish-free park. lakes, swampland and forests. • Leave gates as you find them. • Be considerate of others. Share the park. If you Flora notice any damage to park infrastructure, please report it. The plant life of the Waitakere Ranges is outstandingly significant. There are large areas • Bury toilet waste. In areas without toilets, bury of intact coastal forest, and some important your toilet waste in a shallow hole well away from remnants of original-growth kauri forest. Where waterways and tracks. logging has occurred, the ranges offer a fascinating Toitu te whenua – leave the land undisturbed. demonstration of regeneration in action. The park is home to some 550 species of native plants, including more than two-thirds of New Kauri dieback Zealand’s fern species. Many are rare, endangered or regionally threatened plants. Some species are Kauri dieback, also known as Phytophthora taxon unique to the area. Agathis, is a plant pathogen that kills kauri. You may see affected trees along the route. People may spread the disease if they disturb the soil Fauna around affected trees. You can help to stop kauri dieback taking hold. The forests and caves of the Waitakere Ranges • Thoroughly clean boots and are home to a wide range of invertebrates, camping equipment before and after including hundreds of insect species. Among the visiting the Waitakere Ranges or any invertebrates are the Auckland cave weta and the other area with kauri forest. carnivorous, regionally threatened large kauri snail. The ranges are a stronghold for the nationally • Keep to defined tracks. threatened Hochstetter’s frog, as well as five • Brush and spray boots and walking species of native skinks and geckos. There are 11 poles at stations along the trail. species of native freshwater fish.

10 11 More than 50 species of native birds The arrival of European settlers live in the park, many of them rare in the early 19th century was a or endangered. At Cascade Kauri, turning point for the iwi. Pakeha hihi (stitchbirds), whiteheads, North diseases took a devastating toll, as Island robins and kokako have been did fierce battles with Ngapuhi armed Robin reintroduced by the Ark in the Park with muskets. Much of their ancestral land project. Tui, kereru, grey warblers, was sold, but Te Kawerau a Maki continued silvereyes, fantails and tomtits are a to live in a traditional way on ‘Native common sight in the forest, and if Reserves’ at Piha, Te Henga and Muriwai until you are lucky you may spot a ruru the 20th century. Their history and relationships (morepork), kingfisher or shining are represented in carved pou whenua around the cuckoo. park. Fernbird Coastal, wading and wetland When Europeans settled in Auckland in the 1830s bird species are well represented they needed timber for building, and the tall, – fernbirds, pukeko, variable straight kauri of the Waitakere Ranges were an oystercatchers, bitterns, New obvious source. The most easily accessible trees Zealand and banded dotterels, were quickly felled, then the more remote trees shags, Caspian and white-fronted of the interior were flushed down rivers to mills Grey warbler terns and little blue penguins have near the coast. To do this, bushmen built perhaps all found the wild west coast to a hundred driving and holding dams. The timber their liking. millers also built 66km of tram tracks to transport logs and sawn timber. In places, the remnants of Check out the Arataki Visitor Centre both are still visible book store for a selection of titles on the flora and fauna found in the By the late 1920s only a few large stands of Green gecko Waitakere Ranges. mature kauri remained. Farmers had cleared land in the river mouths for pasture, and gum diggers set fire to manuka forest to make it Cultural history easier to dig up valuable kauri gum. From 1905, five water-supply dams were built in the ranges, Te Kawerau a Maki are the people of the Waitakere drowning 160 hectares of bush while allowing the Ranges. They have associations with the land surrounding forest catchments to regenerate from between the Manukau Harbour and Muriwai going cut over forest and pasture. In 1941 the Auckland back 700 to 800 years. To Te Kawerau a Maki, the Centennial Memorial Park was formed at the wish Waitakere Ranges form part of Te Wao nui o Tiriwa of Auckland’s citizens, to celebrate the centenary (the great forest of Tiriwa) that once covered all of European settlement in Auckland. of west Auckland. The western coastline that the trail follows was known collectively as Hikurangi. The remnants of original-growth forest, the Ngati Whatua also have an ancestral relationship recovering forest and large sections of coast are with the northern section of the trail, between Te today protected as parkland. Formed over more Waharoa and Muriwai. than 60 years and administered today by the Auckland Regional Council, Waitakere Ranges The iwi had villages and fortified pa up and down Regional Park covers 17,000 hectares and attracts the coast and in the forest. They also cleared large around 2.5 million visitors each year to black- areas to allow cultivation and make it easier to sand beaches, historic sites, beautiful rivers and defend their pa. In places, the Hillary Trail follows waterfalls – and more than 140 walking tracks. old routes used by Maori.

12 13 Track notes You can choose to complete the Hillary Trail all at once, in sections, or at your own pace. The following day-by-day descriptions indicate how you can do the Hillary Trail in four days, staying at ARC campgrounds on the way.

Day One

Arataki Visitor Centre to Karamatura 11km 4–5 hours

The Arataki Visitor Centre is the gateway to the Hillary Trail. You will see magnificent pou whenua The Hillary Trail and carvings representing Te Kawerau a Maki Hillary Trail ARC Parkland Other campground ancestors. Stop in to see displays about the trail dots: change of track name Road walking Other Public Open Space Bus stops and talk to staff and get the latest information on dots: change of road name weather and track conditions. Beach walking Beach and wetlands Emergency telephone Stage 2 track From the lookout above the centre, start the Hillary Private land Store / takeaway Trail by descending Slip Track into the Nihotupu Public transport option* Hillary Trail campground Toilets

valley. Along the way you will cross the Nihotupu At high tide, walk along Huia Road with care, take the Karamatura Farm driveway. Follow the markers Tramline which provides access for pipeline from the barn to the Karamatura Campground. maintenance and carrying visitors on the Rain *This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from public transport at Titirangi and Swanson. Forest Express tram.

Near the bottom of the valley turn right onto The track now becomes rougher and muddier, and Pipeline Track. Beyond the bridge across Nihotupu progress may be slow. Continue on Hamilton Track Stream turn right onto Lower Nihotupu Dam Road past its junction with Summit Track, until you and continue along until the road stops. Take reach Crusher Pipe Track, then take Smiths Road. Hamilton Track on your right. Soon you will come The kauri here are among the few large trees in the to a section of dense nikau, the world’s southern- ranges that escaped the saws of the bushmen. At most growing palm. the bottom of the hill a bridge takes you over the upper reaches of the Lower Huia Reservoir. You will climb gently around a hillside and catch sight of, on a ridge to the right, large kauri soaring Beyond the bridge, take Huia Dam Road. A couple above the canopy. Steep drops near the waterfall of ups and downs will bring you to the dam. require care before arriving on the ridge with its Completed in 1971, it is the newest water-supply panoramic views of the remote interior of the dam in the ranges. Walk down the sealed road Waitakere Ranges. towards the harbour. There are toilets on the left at the bottom of the dam face.

At the one-way bridge on the edge of Huia Bay the Hillary Trail continues south along the shoreline

14 15 Nihotupu Stream

to the entrance of Karamatura valley. (If the tide is high, walk on the road, but take care, turn up the driveway off Huia Road marked Karamatura Farm, when you get to the barn at the top of the driveway look for markers indicating the route to the Karamatura campground.)

The shore route follows the high-tide level to the outlet of the Karamatura Stream. Look out for a hole in the rock at Haleys Point where the chain of a log boom was fixed. Before the bridge was built, people crossing the stream at high tide scampered across the bobbing logs. Kauri on Hamilton Track

Cross Karamatura Stream and head inland on a wide grass path. This is part of the Manukau Timber Company Heritage Trail. Follow the path to Kings of the forest the road and the entrance to Karamatura. Growing up to 50m tall and living for up to Here you can visit the Huia Settlers Museum if it’s 2000 years, kauri are among the largest and open, and see the mast of the Orpheus outside. oldest trees in the world. Their timber is From the museum, cross the road and begin the straight, strong and knot-free. Te Kawerau a walk up the Karamatura valley. At the road end car Maki made carvings and canoes from these park, check out the pou and follow the markers to giants, and Europeans used them for ships the Karamatura Campground. masts and housing. Maori valued kauri gum as a component in the ink for ta moko (tattooing) and as chewing gum, while Europeans used it to make ornaments, jewellery, varnish, paint Side trip and linoleum. Huia Settlers Museum. Opposite entrance to Kauri grow on ridges and north-facing slopes. Karamatura Valley. An excellent community- Today, after the destruction caused by kauri owned museum of local history. It is open timber milling, you will see the conical shapes 1.30pm to 4.30pm Saturday and Sunday. of young kauri (rickers) rising above the canopy.

16 17 DAY 1 Day 3 cont. • Comans Track ARATAKI • Mercer Bay Loop • Arataki Lookout Walk Track Muriwai • Log Race Road • Slip Track • Te Ahuahu Road • Pipeline Track • Piha Road • Lower Nihotupu • Ussher Track Dam Road • Winstone Track • Hamilton Track • Kauri Grove Track • Smiths Road • Connect Track • Huia Dam Road • Knutzen Track • Huia Bay foreshore • Kitekite Track • MTC Heritage Trail • Glen Esk Road • Karamatura Loop • Seaview Road Walk • Piha Beach KARAMATURA • Marawhara Walk CAMPGROUND • White Track • Anawhata Road Day 1 alternate option CRAW CAMPGROUND via public transport Start from Day 4 Titirangi Scenic Drive CRAW CAMPGROUND • Exhibition Drive • Anawhata Road • Pipeline Road • Kuataika Track • Pipeline Track • Houghton Track Meets the trail at • Lake Wainamu Track the intersection • Te Henga Walkway with the Slip Track • Constable Road (note this bypasses • Oaia Road Arataki) • Edwin Mitchelson Track DAY 2 • Lookout Track KARAMATURA • Quarry Track CAMPGROUND • Waitea Road • Karamatura Loop • Takapu Refuge Walk Walk MOTUTARA ROAD, • Karamatura Track MURIWAI • Donald McLean Track Day 4 alternate public • Puriri Ridge Track • Omanawanui Track transport and winter • Gibbons Track option • Muir Track CRAW CAMPGROUND PARARAHA • Anawhata Road CAMPGROUND • Kuataika Track • Smyth Ridge Track Day 3 • Long Road Track PARARAHA • Upper Kauri Track CAMPGROUND • Auckland City Walk • Pararaha Valley • Anderson Southern Track Access • Buck Taylor Track • Peripatus Track • Zion Hill Track • Swanson Pipeline • Pohutukawa Glade Track Walk • Tram Valley Road • Karekare & • Swanson Road Watchmans Rds SWANSON TRAIN OR * BUS STATION

18 *This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from public transport at Titirangi and Swanson. 19 Day One alternative start at Titirangi – Day Two public transport option Karamatura to Pararaha This option begins at Titirangi Village, which is 14.5km 8-9 hours accessible by public transport. It bypasses the Arataki Visitor Centre, and it adds 6km to the The day starts on the Karamatura Loop Walk with journey. The first Hillary Trail marker post will a stretch of gravel path through lush growth beside appear at Exhibition Drive. the Karamatura Stream to the junction with Tom Thumb Track. From here it is uphill on Karamatura Go west from Titirangi on Titirangi Road, passing Track to Karamatura Forks. which marks the end historic Lopdell House and looking ahead for of the climbing – for now. Turn left onto Donald the Three Bush Markers sculpture on the traffic McLean Track. At the junction, with Puriri Ridge roundabout. The artwork is inspired by fungus, Track, turn right. Alternatively, make the side trip lichen and algal forms. to the 389m summit of Mt Donald McLean. Walk along Scenic Drive to the intersection with Woodlands Park Road, the car park next to the large concrete filter station marks the start of Exhibition Drive and the Hillary Trail.

At the end of Exhibition Drive turn onto Pipeline Road. After 2km turn right for a short section of Pipeline Track, before rejoining the main description at the junction with Slip Track.

The Hillary Trail

Hillary Trail Other Public Open Space Other campground dots: change of track name Road walking Beach and wetlands Emergency telephone dots: change of road name Beach walking Private land Store / takeaway

Water for Auckland ARC Parkland Hillary Trail campground Toilets The first temporary dams in the Waitakere Ranges were completed in 1902 and the water sent to Western Springs in a cast-iron pipe. Over the next 70 years tramways were laid, workers’ camps built, quarries dug and rock blasted – and five permanent dams were constructed and five valleys flooded. Today these reservoirs supply a quarter of Auckland’s bulk water.

20 21 The Gibbons family The Gibbons were pioneers of timber milling. They set up their first mill at Huia in 1853 and, later, members of the family had busy mills at Whatipu and Pararaha, with tramways linking to their wharf at Paratutai. In the late Puriri Ridge Track 19th century Whatipu was a milling village, but when the mill closed down the Gibbons Pick your way down to Whatipu Road on Puriri family started taking in guests at their Whatipu Ridge Track. There are views to the remote homestead. The 1870 homestead is now part Whatipu valley and the mouth of the Manukau of the Whatipu Lodge complex, including a Harbour, scene of the Orpheus disaster. You will campground, and a bach, on the Waitakere hear and smell the sea. Ranges Regional Park.

Shortly after passing the Kura Track turnoff, cross Whatipu Road. Omanawanui Track crosses two There is a good opportunity to refill your water distinct high points, but the breathtaking views bottles at the tap by the public toilet. The water of Whatipu, South Head, the harbour, and beyond here goes through the lodge’s UV treatment make the exertion worthwhile. system, so it is safe to drink.

Omanawanui Track finishes at the mouth of the From the car park follow the track beside valley near historic Whatipu Lodge. Part way the campground fence in the direction of the down the final descent there is an optional side headland. Cross a footbridge, then step onto the trip on Signal House Track to the site of the hillside and start up Gibbons Track. There are two harbourmaster’s house. points where uninterrupted views of Whatipu and the cliffs are dizzying. Less than a hundred years ago, most of the swamps, salt meadows and sand The wreck of the Orpheus fields below you were under the sea. Home to many unusual plant and bird species, the beach is New Zealand’s worst maritime disaster now a scientific reserve. occurred in 1863, when HMS Orpheus, a steam corvette carrying British troops for the At the next intersection take Muir Track which New Zealand Wars foundered on the Manukau drops steeply into the Pararaha Valley. Halfway Harbour bar. As many as 189 men and boys down it crosses an exposed rocky bluff – take died in the tragedy – although some of the your time and make sure of each foot placement. missing may have survived but in the mayhem The Pararaha campground is at the edge of the taken their chance to desert. Pararaha Stream in the lee of the hill you have just descended. In the gorge around the campground the volcanic conglomerate rock of the ranges is on clear display.

22 23 Day Three

Pararaha to Craw Campground 17km 8-9 hours

Follow Pararaha Valley Track towards the sea for five minutes before wading across the stream. The track continues through harakeke (flax) fields and beside the ever-changing wetland. You may also be able to identify raupo, rush and various sedges. Bird life includes bitterns, fernbirds and pukeko.

A section of boardwalk brings you to your turnoff onto Buck Taylor Track. Make a short but steep ascent before turning onto Zion Hill Track. This is a long uphill track through a variety of forest habitats including kauri. Branch off onto Zion Ridge Track. Stay on Zion Hill Track and begin the descent to Karekare.

At the grassy clearing at the end of the track, turn right and stroll along Pohutukawa Glade Walk to the road. The trees in the glade are fine examples of the spreading habit of pohutukawa. Ninepin Rock at Whatipu You will see the main Karekare car park on your left, across the stream. Here you will find toilets and a lovely pou. The isolated valley was farmed Side trips until the 1880s, when the area was given over to timber milling. Mt Donald McLean. Adds 1.5km. Extensive views in all directions. Walk for a couple of At the road you have the option of turning right up minutes to a car park then follow signs to the Lone Kauri Road for a short side trip to Karekare lookout. Look out for Waitakere rock koromiko, Falls, which would make an excellent spot for a a hebe that is found only in the ranges. Its break. Otherwise turn left onto the road, cross stems and new leaves are maroon, its flowers bridge, and shortly after left again into Watchmans white tinged with purple. Road. Look out for historic Winchelsea House, originally the mill manager’s house, which became Signal House Track. Short track to the wild and a boarding house for tourists. Comans Track starts windy site of Captain Thomas Wing’s house, at the end of the road. which had to be chained to the hillside. Wing, the harbourmaster and pilot, lived here with Snaking up the top edge of the cliffs, Comans his family in the mid 19th century. When a ship Track has dramatic views south down the coast approached the bar he would race down the over the rocky spine of the Watchman to Whatipu, hill then up iron ladders to the signal mast on and north into remote Mercer Bay. There are many Paratutai Island to send instructions. examples of rare native plants along this track.

At the intersection with Ahu Ahu Track, turn left. Another junction soon appears. Take the left option 24 25 carried out identifying radio stars. Walk along Log Race Road and Te Ahuahu Road. At the northern end turn right onto Piha Road, a busy road with fast-moving traffic. Take great care crossing the road and stay on the grass verge where possible.

In about 15 minutes you will be able to step off Piha Road and onto Ussher Track. Follow this down to Winstone Track and onto Ussher Cross. Here your journey continues on Kauri Grove Track. The track crosses Glen Esk Stream above the Kitekite Falls. Downstream of the crossing are several plunge pools with dramatic views over the forest. This was the site of the Glen Esk Dam.

On the other side of the stream turn left onto Connect Track, which descends through kauri and tanekaha. At the bottom, turn left onto Knutzen Track (named after the Danish Piha mill manager) and pass the base of the impressive Kitekite Falls. At the falls, cross the stream and make your way down the valley, to join Kitekite Track.

In the car park at the end of Glen Esk Road there The Hillary Trail are toilets and a drinking fountain. This area was the location of the Piha sawmill with a small Hillary Trail Beach and wetlands Surf lifesaving club dots: change of track name village with single men’s quarters, mill houses for Road walking Private land Store / takeaway families, a store, a school and a hall. dots: change of road name Beach walking Hillary Trail campground Cafe ARC Parkland Other campground Toilets An expensive mistake Other Public Open Space Emergency telephone At the top of Kitekite Falls, U-shaped notches reveal where the Glen Esk Dam was set into the again, the Mercer Bay Loop Walk, and follow rock. Ebenezer Gibbons built the dam in 1911 this to Te Ahua Point, once a very significant Te to drive logs to the Piha Mill, from where sawn Kawerau a Maki pa site. There is a view of the timber was taken on the coastal tramline to the highest cliffs in the Auckland region, remnants of wharf at Whatipu. The dam released logs only lava flows from the Waitakere Volcano. once, as the 40m drop followed by a narrow After the point a cliff-edge track with views as far gorge saw more logs destroyed or jammed than north as Muriwai and the Kaipara Harbour takes were retrieved. After that, it was used to send you up into the bush and then to the end of Log a torrent of water into the Glen Esk Stream to Race Road. This was the site of a WW2 radar flush waiting logs down to the mill. station where some famous investigations were

26 27 will take you through to Les Waygood Park and onto the road. Turn right and go over the bridge to the start of Marawhara Walk which leads to the White Track, this is part of the old tramway route which brought logs from Anawhata to the Piha Mill.

The track passes through a beautiful nikau grove and climbs to meet Anawhata Road.

Turn right onto Anawhata Road and make your way Wetland from Buck Taylor Track to the campground at the old Craw Homestead, about 1.5km away. You will pass Kuataika Track on your left, where you will rejoin the Hillary Trail Walk down Glen Esk Road and turn right over the tomorrow. bridge into Seaview Road. Along here, the Piha Store sells provisions. It is open until early evening. Next to the store is the Piha Café. Here you can hire a locker to keep your gear safe while you Side trips head to the beach for a swim between the flags. Once you’ve settled in at Craw Campground, You are also welcome to refill your water bottle follow the track behind the shelter to a lookout. with treated water from the café tap. Post your The remarkable view back to Piha makes the postcards at the Piha Post Office. The history of short walk (5 minutes return) worthwhile. this community-run Post Office includes receiving the telegram that told the Rose family that Ed Karekare Falls. Adds about 500m to the journey. Hillary had reached the summit of Mt Everest. Turn right from the end of Pohutukawa Glade Track onto the sealed road. Within 100m you Follow the road to North Piha Beach and stride will spot a sign pointing you towards a picnic along the black sand as far as the United North area close to the bottom of the falls. Piha Surf Club. Look for the distinctive tower. Just before the Surf Club there is an accessway which Lion Rock. (20 minutes return) From the beach at the Lion’s tail, the track climbs up his back and onto his shoulders offering grand views West Coast surf clubs of Piha along the way. As well as having been an important pa site for Te Kawerau a Maki, In 1934 Piha Surf Life Saving Club became the Lion Rock is the focus of ANZAC parades with first of the five surf clubs on the west coast. plaques near the base listing those who served Swimmers in difficulty were rescued by a in both world wars. ‘beltman’ attached by rope to an Australian- style reel or dragged onto a locally developed Tasman Lookout. (40 minutes return) At the teardrop-shaped surf ski. These days lifeguards southern end of the beach, this track takes you use modern equipment, such as IRBs, to save to the top of the cliffs and wonderful viewpoints many dozens of lives every year. overlooking Piha and Taitomo Island. The track continues on an airy cliff-top route to a second viewpoint overlooking The Gap.

28 29 Day Four

Craw Campground to Muriwai Beach 27km 11-12 hours There is no treated water available until you reach Muriwai Beach. There are also Shorter daylight hours make Craw to no good sources for untreated water between Te Muriwai a challenge. We recommend Henga/Bethells Beach and Muriwai Beach. Make trampers consider the alternative finish at sure you are well stocked with treated water Swanson (p34) during the winter months. before you set out.

Retrace your steps along Anawhata Road to the Farm before dropping down to Anawhata start of Kuataika Track, which crosses Anawhata Stream. In the later days of logging, timber from a holding dam downstream of this crossing was winched uphill, on a straight line of tram tracks, by a steam hauler close to the Craw Campground.

An equally steep climb on the other side of the stream becomes gentler as you approach Kuataika (265m). A very short side track on the left will take you to the rocky summit. Here there are views back to Anawhata and on to Raetahinga Point.

Back on the main track, the junction with Houghton, Wainamu Bush and Smyth Ridge TheThe Hillary Hillary Trail Trail Tracks is not far away. Hillary Trail ARC Parkland Private land Hillary Trail campground Emergency telephone dots: changeHillary of track Trail name ARC Parkland Private land Hillary Trail campground Emergency telephone dots: change of track name Road walking Other Public Open Space Bus stops Other campground Cafe dots: changeRoad of road walking name Other Public Open Space Bus stops Other campground Cafe dots: change of road name Public transport option* Beach and wetlands Railway station Surf lifesaving club Toilets Public transport option* Beach and wetlands Railway station Surf lifesaving club Toilets *This option indicates our recommended tramping route for access to and from Pick up options public *Thistransport option at Titirangiindicates and our Swanson.recommended tramping route for access to and from Pick up options 30 public transport at Titirangi and Swanson. 31 A fair weather tramway Follow the trail up the steep hillside to the edge of the farmland and head north. This section of The Piha tramway was one of the great feats the trail, known as Te Ara Kanohi (the pathway of the timber men enabling the extraction of of the eye), was the site of several important kauri from this rugged terrain. The narrow- fortified pa in pre-European times. There is plenty gauge tramway carried logs and sawn timber to distract you as you wind around the headlands, on trestles above wave-lashed rocks and but some parts need all your attention and you shifting sands, below towering cliffs and over may be feeling weary by now. Eventually the track steep hills to the wharf at Whatipu. It grew turns inland across farmland and a steep climb to in sections between the 1870s and 1916. At Constable Road. its greatest extent it ran for a full 14km from Anawhata Stream to Whatipu. Be alert! You have more than 3 hours of road walking ahead of you.

At this junction you are making a big Turn left onto Constable Road and then left again commitment to continue on the Hillary onto Oaia Road. Watching out for traffic, follow Trail to Te Henga/Bethells Beach and Muriwai. If Oaia Road past Waitea Road, until you reach conditions are bad or any member of your party Edwin Mitchelson Track. This leads down to may struggle with the distance still to cover, Quarry Track, with views to the long sweep of consider turning inland here towards Swanson Muriwai Beach. When you reach Waitea Road, (see page 34). take the road to Maukatia (Maori Bay). Continue a little further on the tarseal and finish on Takapu Refuge Walk. Gannets arrive at the mainland To continue on the main route of the Hillary Trail, colony on the headland in winter and spring to turn onto Houghton Track. At the bottom of the reconnect with their mates and nest. Chicks are hill turn right onto Lake Wainamu Track. The track abundant in early summer. goes around the edge of this dune impounded lake and ends at a huge expanse of black-sand The walk emerges at the southern end of dunes. They have built up over thousands of years, Muriwai Beach. This is the end of the Hillary Trail. damming the stream and creating the lake. At this Congratulations! point the Hillary Trail follows the Waiti Stream to Bethells Road. Ark in the Park Cross the road, keeping the bridge on your right. The trail continues on the other side of Bethells A partnership between the ARC and the Road on the Department of Conservation (DOC) Waitakere Branch of Forest & Bird, Ark in the -managed Te Henga Walkway. The flat land Park is an open sanctuary project at Cascade upstream of the footbridge was the site of the Kauri for native wildlife. Since 2003, intensive Maori village of Waiti. work has cleared pests and predators from 1100 hectares of parkland. This ‘mainland Make your way through a paddock before heading island’ has become a safe place to reintroduce up the hill, then follow the track north to O’Neill species driven out of the ranges by predation Bay. There are several private baches dotted and habitat destruction. To find out more go to around as you travel through fields of harakeke www.arkinthepark.org.nz and groves of pohutukawa. 32 33 Booking information Alternative finish at Swanson There is no charge to use the Hillary Trail. However, Recommended winter option. ARC campgrounds cost $5 per person per night. They must be booked in advance and full payment This option for the Hillary Trail ends at Swanson, must be made at the time of booking. There are which is accessible by public transport. It is three ways to book and pay: 18.5km, as opposed to 27km for the Muriwai option. It will take about 7.5 to 8.5 hours. Over the phone: Call the ARC on 09 366 2000 or 0800 80 60 40 (freephone) and have your If you are being picked up in a private vehicle, credit card ready. We accept Visa, Mastercard and finishing at the end of Falls Road in the Cascade American Express. Kauri area is an excellent choice. This option is about 10km from Craw Campground. In person: Pay using cash, cheque or eftpos at the ARC’s ground-floor reception at 21 Pitt Street, Walk from Craw Campground to the junction of Auckland 1142. Kuataika, Houghton, Wainamu Bush and Smyth Ridge Tracks as described for the main route (page By mail: Send a cheque with your contact and 31). For the Swanson option, take Smyth Ridge booking details to Auckland Regional Parks, Track to Smyth Corner. Turn right onto Long Road Private Bag 92-012, Auckland. A member of the Track and take Upper Kauri Track. parks team will contact you when this has been The track leads you through mature kauri forest in received. the Ark in the Park open sanctuary area, where you Parks staff should be advised within 24 hours may hear kokako and receive a visit from a curious of the date of booking should you decide not to robin while walking among ancient giants. proceed with your camp booking. No refunds are At the lower end of Upper Kauri Track a pou given except when more than two weeks’ prior stands in welcome. (If you are finishing your trail notice has been received in writing or if the camp experience here, turn left onto Auckland City Walk is closed due to bad weather. and cross the swing bridge and make your way up to Cascade Kauri car park. There are toilets, drinking fountains and an emergency telephone nearby).

Alternatively, from the Upper Kauri Track, turn right and follow Auckland City Walk to the junction with Anderson Track. After crossing the stream the track makes its way out of the valley, steeply at times. Turn onto Anderson Southern Access before reaching Scenic Drive.

Cross the road to Peripatus Track which drops steeply and roughly before joining Swanson Pipeline Track. Follow this to the end of the track at Tram Valley Road. Sections are bare clay and will be slippery if wet.

Turn right and walk along Tram Valley Road to get to Swanson and public transport.

34 35 Contact information 3866.CD.04/10

Auckland Regional Council 21 Pitt Street Private Bag 92-012 Auckland 1142 Phone: 09 366 2000 or 0800 80 60 40 (freephone). Choose option 2 for parks information. Hours: Monday to Friday 8am to 5pm* (including public holidays) Email: [email protected] Website: www.arc.govt.nz Arataki Visitor Centre Scenic Drive, 6km from Titirangi Phone: 09 817 0077 Hours: 9am to 5pm in summer 10am to 4pm in winter Email: [email protected] MAXX Public transport information Phone: 09 366 6400 or 0800 10 30 80 (freephone) Hours: 6am to 9pm Monday to Friday 7am to 8pm Saturday 8am to 6.30pm Sunday and public holidays Website: www.maxx.co.nz Huia Settlers Museum 1251 Huia Road Phone: 09 811 8971 Hours: 1.30pm to 4.30pm Saturday and Sunday Admission by donation Whatipu Lodge Phone: 09 811 8860

Piha Domain Motor Camp Phone: 09 812 8815 Muriwai Beach Motor Camp Phone: 09 411 9262

*Hours vary and are extended during peak periods. See website for details.

09 366 2000 www.arc.govt.nz