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Sport Diving Magazine Issue132

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Sport Diving Magazine Issue132 destination reportº MUCK A N D M A GIC : RICHARD AND JOANNE SWANN www.divedownbelow.com + ITS FIVE AM. FROM OUR BEDROOM WINDOW I WATCH AN EAGLERAY GLIDE BENEATH THE STILTS OF OUR WATER CHALET. SURELY I’M DREAMING. WALKING OUT TO THE BALCONY, THE NIGHT SKY LIGHTS THE SILKY OCEAN BELOW, BUT THE CREATURE IS GONE. RETURNING TO BED, I FALL ASLEEP TO THE HYPNOTIC SOUND OF WATER ALL AROUND ME. WHAT A SPECIAL PLACE THIS IS… Returning to Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort As professional divers and photographers off the south east coast of Sabah, Borneo. we understand and appreciate the We wanted to see if – by chance – nearby importance of a well-run dive operation Sipadan Island became off limits, the and Kapalai certainly delivers. Ben, a resort region would still attract traveling divers’ divemaster showed us over the station. The dollars and deliver enough marine life to dive guides are enthusiastic and compete with alternative destinations. knowledgeable, always a key factor in making a dive memorable or forgettable. Constructed over Litigan Reef in the Daily boat schedules are well managed and Celebes Sea, this resort appeals to divers a register is monitored for those conducting and non-divers alike. Spacious water their own dive off the jetty. Camera storing chalets provide panoramic ocean views. In and washing facilities are large and clean the roomy bathrooms reflections off the Left to right - ocean below sparkle and dance over the walls and ceilings. Raised wooden Antennarius commersonii up close walkways link 50 private chalets to an Squat shrimp Thor amboinensis open terraced restaurant, sundecks and Hawksbill turtle Eretmochelys imbricata with dive centre. Centred within this stylish diver on the artificial house reef labyrinth is a natural seawater lagoon, Flamboyant cuttlefish Metasepia pfefferi perfect for a quick plunge to cool off or Juvenile clown frogfish Antennarius begin a snorkel through the underwater maculates on a sunken wreck within the supports that teem with life. resort’s artificial reef 34 SPORTDIVING MAGAZINE destination reportº SURPRISINGLY KAPALAI’S DIVE SITES“ ALSO DELIVER PELAGIC SPECIES. TURTLES, TUNA, GIANT TREVALLY AND BARRACUDAS ARE SEEN REGULARLY “AND THE OCCASIONAL SEASONAL WHALESHARKS PASS BY Aside from diving there are plenty of coral polyps develop and cover the steel of the scorpionfish family and a resident other activities. Snorkelling, kayaking and and wooden debris, thus providing extra school of the endangered bumphead swimming are very popular and easily room for species to develop. Marine life parrotfish. The list is still growing. The accessible. For those prefering to stay dry, concentrates on these reefs and in many resorts vision in creating this new habitat watching the endless stingrays and cases enhances the development of rare is, in our opinion, highly commendable. schools of colourful angelfish, parrotfish, species. Not only will it ease human pressure by sweetlips and butterflyfish is a very divers on natural reefs in the area, it also pleasurable pastime. Kapalai's artificial house reef is already adds variety to an already healthy home to painted and clown frogfish, selection of sites. If world-class macro life, luxury harlequin ghostpipefish, giant grouper, accommodation and uncrowded dive butterfly and angelfish, various members Underwater biological diversity here is boats aren’t enticing enough, the resorts conservation and environmental efforts are another good reason to visit. A state of the art treatment plant using hydroponics has been installed to purify resort sewage and wastewater before discharge to the open sea. This greatly reduces pollution whilst at the same time and guest equipment is assembled, disassembled and washed by provides nutrient-rich food to the resort staff for every dive – what luxury! plant nursery. All refuse is disposed of correctly on the mainland and fresh Litigan Reef is a shallow sandbar littered with dive sites, most of bathing water is bought in by boat from which are within 25 metres of the surface and all within two to Semporna. three minutes by speedboat. Offering year-round diving, the visibility varies from five to 30 metres; local weather patterns Creating artificial reef systems in front of and seasonal upwellings are a major influence but from April to the dive station and accessed from the November the seas are generally calmer. jetty adds to an already established collection of small wrecks. These purpose- Searching out the weirdly wonderful and beautifully ugly, almost built hardwood constructions will in time every dive surprised us with a trophy find. Mimic, blue ring and become part of the natural environment veined octopus, pygmy seahorses, ghostpipefish and gardens of providing shelter, protection and food for gobies will wow even the most jaded divers. When the other surrounding marine life. With worldwide guests joined the morning crowds at Sipadan, we had the dive coral reefs in decline space on them Clockwise from above - boat to ourselves so we could take our time and visit the lesser- comes at a premium. An artificial reef system creates its own biomass where A dive guide’s sharp eye will help locate the pygmy seahorse dived spots. One such site is Kapalai Rock, where coral shelves Hippocampus bargibanti rise to 10 metres and gently slope to beyond recreational diving depth out to the Sipadan Channel. As soon as we began A veined octopus Octopus marginatus ‘walks’ the substrate. scanning the corals photo subjects began lining up – a pygmy Dive boats tied up at the Resort dive centre jetty. The seahorse, crinoid cuttlefish, nudibranchs and numerous Mandarin Valley dive site is just a giant stride from the centre. Raised wooden walkways link the 50 spacious and private crustaceans. chalets, many of which have a view of Sipadan Island on the horizon. A major drawcard at this resort is accessibility to the house reef One of the many sunken wrecks within the artifical house reef and Mandarin Valley, two outstanding muck dives. Located in front of the dive centre, guests have unlimited access to the area Blue ring octopus Hapalochlaena sp and buddy dives can take place between 5am and 10pm A diver investigates one of many crocodilefish Cymbacephalus providing great flexibility. beauforti resting beneath the resort dive jetty Surprisingly Kapalai’s dives sites also produce quite a number of pelagic species. Turtles, tuna, giant trevally and barracudas are seen regularly and the occasional seasonal whalesharks pass by. 36 SPORTDIVING MAGAZINE MUCK A N D M A GIC vast and, though we love vertical walls TRAVEL TIPS AND TRICKS TELOK LAHAD DATU and drift dives, we’re also great macro Resort packages include airport transfers (road SABAH fans and enjoy taking our time TIMBUN MATA and speedboat), water chalet rooms, breakfast, (MALAYSIA) GAJA searching out small wonders of the reef. lunch, dinner and tea/coffee/water BUM BUM SEMPORNA Kapalai dive resort offers premium refreshments. Three boat dives, unlimited jetty OMADAL TELOK TA TAWAU NUSA SI AMIL luxury and excellent service at dives plus Sipadan Park entry fee also included. TENGAH DANAWAN WAN MABUL SEBA affordable rates. Resort staff and ISLANDTIK KAPALAI Climate: Tropical with year round diving, water SIPADAN management respect and work with temperature averages 27-29 degrees, 3mm full SEBUKU BAY A W E S I S U L S E A their environment and provide divers a suit is recommended. great base where three to four dives a Electricity: 220 volts Timezone: GMT + 8hrs day is the average and five dives a day are possible. Nearby Mabul Island Currency: Malaysian Ringgit. Tipping is optional also offers superb muck diving, fantastic walls, very healthy coral growth and but appreciated. generally fair to good visibility. Communication: International mobile phone roaming. Wireless internet available. We didn’t go to Sipadan during this five-night stay but our days were filled Visa: In most cases, tourist visas are granted on with rewarding marine encounters and a great variety of dive sites. We will entry. If in doubt, check with your local return to Kapalai – with or without diving Sipadan. Malaysian consulate. GETTING THERE The closest airport is in Tawau With a touch of traditional Kampung (‘village’ in Malay), Kapalai’s chain of in Sabah, a 1.5 hour car trip from Semporna. chalets are linked by miles of wooden walkways. All 50 wooden chalets offer twin and triple share accommodation and private balconies, bathrooms with From here the resort is a 40 min speedboat ride shower and bathtub, basic toiletries, coffee and tea making facilities and 220 away. volts electrical points. Meals are served buffet-style under the terraced open Air Asia and Malaysian Airlines have daily flights central structure. A big western sundeck with seating is perfect for an from Kuala Lumpur International Airport and evening drink, after-dive chat, or to share underwater images and videos. Kota Kinabalu to Tawau. Other resort facilities include a dive centre providing diving, snorkeling and Reservations: Sipadan-Kapalai Dive Resort kayaking gear and rental equipment, souvenir shop, games room and Telephone (60-89) 765 200 internet access. Kapalai PADI Dive Instructors offer a variety of PADI courses Fax (60-89) 763 575; 763 563 – Discover Scuba Diving, Open Water, Advanced Open Water, Introduction www.sipadan-kapalai.com to Night Diving. Email: [email protected] >LINKS: www.sipadan-kapalai.com www.tourism.gov.my 38 SPORTDIVING MAGAZINE SPORTDIVING MAGAZINE 39.
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