And The State Of | By Datuk Hamidah M. Yusoff

'Selamat Datang ke Negeri Kedah - Jelapang right in the centre of the city. people pronounced it as 'Alok Stuck anyway) Padi ' (Welcome to Kedah - Rice and s»o the name has stuck. Bowl of Malaysia) is the sign that greets The people of Kedah speak Malay with a visitors entering the State of Kedah overland distinctive accent. Kedahans were often teased Alor Setar is approachable from all parts of through its western border with . by the way they speak when they interacted by road, by air, by rail and by sea.

If you travel by road from , use the North-South Expressway that takes about 5-6 hours of driving, passing through the states of and , the longest state on the peninsula. Once you enter Kedah the scenery offers panoramic views of padi fields, mountains, rivers and sea. The vast stretches of padi fields beckons visitors to the state. Kedah is the largest rice producer in Malaysia and is also a distribution centre for manufacturing and agricultural products and supports agro-based industries as well. As you drive from the town of Gurun to Alor Setar, a distance of about 40 km, you will notice on both sides of the main road the Wan Mat Saman Canal. It is the longest canal or aqueduct in Malaysia and provides an important channel for the irrigation of padi Vast fields of padi fields in the Kedah plains. The canal was built in 1885 and was a tremendous achievement ou will understand why Kedah is with the other in the peninsula. If during its time. The water for the irrigation aptly described thus, for as you the first Prime Minister, the late Tunku Abdul comes from Sungai Kedah (Kedah River) travel around the state you will Rahman Putra had shouted 'Merdeke' Instead that flows through Alor Setar and connects see miles and miles of padi fields of 'Merdeka' it would not have sounded so to Sungai . This river then flows amidst lush green rainforests on resounding and moving when he declared into the Wan Mat Saman Canal. This canal Yhighlands. Even so, two thirds of the state Malaya's independence in 1957. Kedah people was made to enable farmers to boost its rice is still forested. When you travel deep into pronounce 'a' as 'ah' while other Malays production, thus earning Kedah the nickname, the state you will see undulating hills and pronounce 'a' as 'e'. 'The Rice Bowl of Malaysia'. at the fringe of the forests you can see the land is covered with rubber, oil palm and Alor Setar is proud to be the birthplace fruit plantations. of two Prime Ministers, YTM Putra, the first Premier, and YABhg Situated in the northwest corner of Peninsular Tun Dr Mahathir Bin Mohamad, the fourth Malaysia Kedah borders and in Premier the north, Penang in the southwest, and Perak in the south. Alor Setar, formerly known as Origins of Alor Setar Alor Star, is the state capital of Kedah Darul Aman, the 'Abode of Peace' and is situated Do you know that Alor Setar is the oldest in the northern part of the state. city in Malaysia and also in the region? Founded in 1735 by the 19th ruler, The People Muhammad Jiwa Zainal Adilin 11, the name Anak Bukit River is believed to have originated from the Malay Kedah is regarded as the Malay heartland of words 'alor' which means river channel and Malaysia, like , and Johore. 'setar', a tree. Called 'pohon setar' (Bouea If you travel by rail take the train services It did not join the Macrophylla) this tree grew along the banks provided by KTMB. In fact KTMB runs during British colonial rule. Malays form the of the river that flows pass the settlement throughout Peninsular Malaysia connecting majority of the population but other races of Alor Setar. In olden days visitors traveling Bharu and in the south to like Chinese, Indians, Siamese, and by boat to Alor Setar would rest under these Alor Setar and Thailand in the north. The descendants of Arab and Indian traders live trees along the riverbanks. Thus the resting writer recalls during the school holida^ peacefully in the state. There is a sizeable place became known as Alor Star. In 2009 traveling with her brother by train at night . Siamese population in the state and they have the Kedah Government decided to change from Kuala Lumpur (where she was studying \ built a Buddhist temple, Wat Nikradharam, the name of Alor Star to Alor Setar (as the and waking up in the morning at Alor Setar PERDAN LEADERSHIP FOUNDATION Y A f A S A N KEPIMPIN AN 40 ©L#BALIST • Dec 2011 P E R D A N A (where her parents lived). It was a safe mode beauty is as fascinating as the myths and It is noteworthy that the state's Ruler, HRH of travel, and fun as you meet many people legends that surround them. Note that the Sultan Abdul Halim Mu'adzam Shah has been on board the train. legend of 'Mahsuri', a wife wrongly accused elected as the Yang di-Pertuan Agong (King of being unfaithful, was made into a movie of Malaysia). This will be the second time If you drive through Alor Setar today you can't by the first Prime Minister, the late Tunku HRH Sultan Abdul Halim Mu'adzam Shah help being caught in the traffic congestion Abdul Rahman Putra, a Kedah prince. Legend will serve as the Yang di-Pertuan Agong. in the city centre as they are building a new has it that before her death she put a curse The first time, from 21 September 1970 to electrified double-tracking railway track that on the island that it would not prosper for 20 September 1975 when the Sultan was will connect Kedah to Thailand. I believe this seven generations. It is believed the curse then 41 years, and the Prime Minister then is part of the Trans- railway project that has been lifted and , under the keen was the late Tun . The will eventually link Singapore to Kunming attention of the fourth Prime Minister, Tun writer recalled seeing a touching photograph in China, running throughout Peninsular Dr , also from Kedah, the of HRH Sultan Abdul Halim hugging the late Malaysia, an idea by former Premier Tun island has prospered and is now a premier Tun Abdul Razak as they said farewell at the Dr Mahathir Mohamad. Alor Setar is also tourist destination in Kedah. A few years official sendoff when the Sultan ended his connected by rail to , operated by ago Hollywood came to Langkawi to shoot term as Yang di-Pertuan Agong in 1975. A the State Railway of Thailand. And not to a segment of the movie, 'Anna and the King'. few months later the country was in shock forget, the Eastern Et Oriental Express runs The movie set left behind became a tourist when Tun Abdul Razak passed away. This from Bangkok through Peninsular Malaysia attraction. time around, as the Sultan begins his second to Singapore, an experience many tourists term, the current Prime Minister is the son find fascinating. Langkawi is famous for two international of Tun Abdul Razak. events, the 'Langkawi International Maritime and Airshow' (LIMA) held every two years and Brief 'Le Tour de Langkawi' an international cycling event also held every two years. Starting in Kedah's recorded history often begins at the Langkawi cyclists then cycle throughout , the ancient wonder of Kedah, the country. These two events have put located in central Kedah. Kedah became a Langkawi and Kedah on the world sporting prominent maritime kingdom as early as the and tourism events list. first century AD, visited by Indian, Persian, and Chinese traders. For many centuries, the Empires of Sri Vijaya and later the Cholas all exerted their influence and domination over the state. Kedah Peak (Gunung Jerai), at 1217 metres, provided the landmark for ships plying the Straits of Melaka. The Bujang Valley was a collecting centre for products of the and a transit trading post for ships awaiting the change of currents and monsoon winds of the . Traders soon propagated and and their culture, of building shrines and temples along the coastal area, were evident from One of the many resorts in Langkawi the artifacts found at the valley. / History lovers should not miss a visit to Tunku Abdul Rahman t The Kedah Sultanate the Bujang Valley where historical evidence of the place gives an insight to the state's Alor Setar is also accessible by air. Malaysia Many may not be aware that Kedah is the rich historical heritage - the Kingdom of Airlines, Air Asia and fly daily to Alor most ancient state in the country, dating back Kedah, which was once part of the Kingdom Setar from Kuala Lumpur, and the flight takes to 100 AD. Older folks referred to the state of . Learn about the state's rich about 55 minutes. You can also take a flight as 'Kedah Tua' (Ancient Kedah). The Kedah history when you visit Alor Setar, where the to Langkawi Island or Penang and travel by Annals narrates an interesting story of the Royal Museum chronicles the history of the sea/road to Alor Setar. During the monsoon first Kedah ruler, a Hindu known as Merong Kedah Sultanate. period its best to check whether your flight Mahawangsa. (This was the title of a recent will take off as the Sultan Abdul Halim Airport Malay movie, 'Hikayat ,' In the 13th century, Siam, as it was then is built on flat padi land and last year the recently shown in Malaysian cinemas.) He known, dominated Kedah and the state runway was flooded and the airport had to was the first Maharaja of Kedah. It was the became a vassal of Siam. Kedah had to be closed for almost a week! ninth maharaja, Phra Ong Mahawangsa, who send 'Bunga Emas' or golden flowers to the converted to in 1136, and ruled as Siamese King each year, and in return Siam Kedah has more than 100 tropical islands Sultan Mudzaffar Shah (1136 - 1179). The protected Kedah from her enemies. scattered off the west coast of the state but Kedah Sultanate starts with this first Sultan it is the Langkawi Islands that is more well and has been intact for more than eight The succeeding centuries saw the scramble L known and has become one of Malaysia's centuries, making it the oldest continuous for power and control of the by \ „ best tropical island destination - a paradise line of monarchy in Malaysia and in the other foreign powers such as the Portuguese, |\ for sun, sea and nature lovers. The island's world, second to Japan. Achehnese and Bugis, that devastated thei^ PERDANA LEADERSHIP FOUND A PON Dec 2011 . 6L#BALIST iiii'i"*"; i

state, slowly destroying its prosperity. heritage building, contains paintings, photographs and personal effects of the photographs, musical instruments and Premier's family. A stone's throw away is The British exerted their control over Kedah handicrafts. Temporary exhibitions are the Royale Hotel, owned by the Tunku's from the 18th century and took possession of often held here. son, where the writer stayed recently, part of Kedah, Province Wellesley, including and saw many paintings of the Tunku . Siam continued their influence proudly hung in the lobby. and attacked Kedah in 1821. As a result Kedah lost more territories - (now Menara Alor Setar () is part of Thailand) and Perlis that was taken by a modern landmark in the heart of Alor Siam and later became an independent state Setar. This 165.5 metre tower is Malaysia's within the . Under the second tallest communications tower Bangkok Agreement of 1909, Siam handed and is a tourist attraction. Set in the Kedah to the British and British Advisers were city centre, the tower offers panoramic appointed to the state. This period also saw views of Alor Setar and the surrounding other states in the Malay Peninsula came padi fields, mountains, rivers and sea. under British influence and control. There is also a revolving restaurant and a viewing gallery. Places of Interest to see in Alor Setar

Kedah is a state rich in history and natural beauty. It is an excellent destination for Masjid Zahir (Zahir Mosque), the icon of history enthusiasts, nature lovers and eco- Alor Setar and one of the grandest and tourists. It offers a mix of small urban centres, most beautiful mosques in the country, 'kampongs', an industrial park, fishing villages, was built in 1912 and officially opened and many nature parks. in 1915. It is said that the five black domes of the Zahir Mosque inspired Besides being the state capital and former Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir administrative centre, Alor Setar is a royal to design similar domes for the Perdana town and also one of Kedah's historical Putra Building that houses the Prime enclaves with heritage buildings, museums Minister's Office; Seri Perdana, the and royal palaces. There are many interesting ; the Putra Mosque and places to see and visit. Among them: the Palace of Justice. As a Kedahan, he brought an iconic symbol of Alor Setar Balai Besar (G/and Audience Hall), situated to ! in the town square, was built in 1735 as part of the Kota Setar Palace complex Istana Anak Bukit (Anak Bukit Palace) is and served as an audience hall of the the palace of the present ruler of Kedah, Sultan. It was badly damaged when HRH Sultan Abdul Halim Mua'dzam Shah. the Bugis attacked the palace in 1770 He resides here with his family. The main and ruined further by the Siamese in entrance is lighted up at night and is a 1821. It was refurbished in 1896 and pretty sight to behold. was used for royal weddings, and now Alor Setar Tower used as a venue for important official Birthplace of Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad, ceremonies and other royal events. The located at Kampong Seberang Perak, present ruler, HRH Sultan Abdul Halim is a traditional wooden house where Mua'dzam Shah, was installed here on Malaysia's fourth Prime Minister was Muzium Negeri (State Museum), houses 20 February 1959. born on 10 July 1925. He lived in this a large collection of Kedah's historical, house till his marriage. Exhibits include cultural and royal heritage. The collection Balai Nobat (Nobat Hall), built in 1906, photographs and memorabilia from his includes early Chinese porcelain, artifacts is also situated in the town square student days till his tenure as Prime from the archaelogical excavations in in front of the Masjid Zahir. It is an Minister. Bujang Valley and a 'pokok bunga emas' octagonal building and houses the or gold tree produced as a tribute to Nobat, the ancient instruments of the Rumah Merdeka (Tunku Abdul Rahman Siam, as Thailand was then known. state royal orchestra. The musicians are Memorial), situated in Jalan Kampong trained to perform at royal ceremonies Perak, houses photographs and documents Muzium Di Raja Kedah (Royal Kedah such as the installation of the Sultan, on the life of Malaya and Malaysia's first Museum) traces the history of the at royal weddings and at funerals. They Prime Minister and a Kedah prince, Tunku Kedah Sultanate since the 4th century will play a key role in the forthcoming Abdul Rahman Putra, and his struggle AD before the ninth ruler converted to installation of the Sultan of Kedah as for Independence. It was the Tunku's Islam in 1136. the next Yang di-Pertuan Agong just as private residence whenever he was in they did during his first term in 1970. Alor Setar. This writer was privileged Kompleks (Pekan Rabu to visit this house as a child with her Complex) is a well-known bazaa^wi * Balai Seni Negeri (State Art Gallery) father, a family friend of the Tunku. Alor Setar. Although the name me located in the former , a The exhibits include original furniture, 'Wednesday Market' this bazaar

PERDANA LEADERSHIP FOUNDATION 6L#BALIST. Dec 2011 Y A Y A S A W 42 CEPIMPINAN PERDANA daily from morning till midnight. The to with her friends riding a rich Malay and Muslim heritage that are bazaar has 347 stalls and is popular bicycles for the ten-km journey just to well preserved that we can be proud of. with locals and visitors alike as it sells savour the 'Pulut Sambal!' No construction has taken place in the city an array of traditional Malay products, centre where the heritage sites like Masjid clothing, Asian and local handicraft and Kedah Food and Fruits Zahir, Balai Nobat, Balai Besar. Menara Jam typical Kedah foodstuff and delicacies. Besar, and Muzium Seni are located. The Former Premier Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad Be sure to savour the variety of food, exotic people of Alor Setar are proud of their rich was once a trader in Pekan Rabu during dishes and tropical fruits while you are in Alor heritage and will not do any construction in the Japanese Occupation and when he Setar. Fruits like durians, rambutans, langsat, this hikorical area even to attract tourists. was in office he rebuilt the bazaar to a dukong, cempedak, nangka and even pomelos Visitors should appreciate and respect what modern complex that we see today. He are available there. Rice is the staple food they see. still visits Pekan Rabu regularly to get a of the country and some of the rice meals 'songkok'(headgear), 'chapal' (slippers) or you can order or buy at restaurants or street Or for that matter the Bujang Valley, the buy his favourite Kedah delicacies only stalls made from rice include Nasi Lemak, ancient Hindu-Buddhist civilization, an area available here. Nasi Ayam, Nasi Biryani, Nasi Daun Pisang, that stretches from the foothills of Gunung Nasi Kandar, Nasi Kunyit, Nasi Ulam, and Jerai to Kuala Muda in the south. Over 50 Kota Kuala Kedah (Kedah Fort), built Nasi Durian. There are also savoury desserts archaelogical sites containing the ruins of in 1771, is the remains of a fort that like Pulut Udang, Pulut Sambal and Pulut Hindu and Buddhist temples have been protected the Kedah Kingdom from Inti or dishes spiced with aromatic herbs unearthed and displayed at the Bujang Valley naval attacks. It is sited at the mouth like Sambal Belacan, Asam Pedas and Archaelogical Museum. The only recognition of the Kedah River facing the Straits of Pindang, Other popular delicacies are Kueh from UNESCO is that one of the islands in Melaka. The fort is the site of numerous Karas, Laksa Teluk Kecai, Mee Abu, Apam Langkawi was accorded the Global Geopark battles that marked Kedah's struggle Balik, Serawa Durian, Putu Piring, Bubur Cha status for its unique geological structures. against foreign domination and control. Cha, Chili Crab and a variety of Chinese and It is not enough to accord Alor Setar, the In 1611 the Portuguese attacked the Indian noodles. oldest city in Malaysia with a long history fort and the Achehnese attacked it in and a rich heritage, with the oldest Sultanate 1619. It was occupied by the Dutch in Shopping in Malaysia that is continuous for eight 1710 and attacked by the Bugis again centuries, with just a city status. It should a few years later. In 1821 the Siamese A trip to Alor Setar will not be complete if you be accorded the UNESCO World Heritage site attacked the fort and Kedah came do not stop at the shops or look for souvenirs. too. The authorities in Kedah should urge the As mentioned above, 'Pekan Rabu' is a good Federal Government to do something about it place to start. You can also do your shopping with UNESCO. Kedah, the Malay heartland of at the smaller shops that have existed since Malaysia, deserves a better place in modern Independence, or the newer malls like the history despite its ancient origins. Souq Al-Bukhary, Alor Star Mall, Star Parade, and City Plaza next to Holiday Villa. Take a trishaw or pedicap to rest your tired legs or just stroll along the older part of Alor Setar. Taxis are also available but you need to ask your hotel reception to call for one. If you want to get duty-free items, take a drive to the of where you can also get Thai goods like clothings, dinnerware, electrical goods and fruits.

Alor Setar Today

Looking ahead to 2020 Kedah is well prepared to meet the challenges of the future. Alor Setar has built its own administrative centre like Putrajaya, called Bandar Muadzam Shah, located in Anak Bukit, about ten-km from the present city Besides the Kedah state Balai Nobat, Alor Setar government buildings, new Federal government buildings are also being built. A new railway under Siamese suzerainty until 1829. station, Anak Bukit International Rail Station, Kota Kuala Kedah will always serve as will also be built when the electrified twin a reminder of the town's eventful past. railway project is completed. Today the people of Alor Setar often visit Kuala Kedah during weekends to As an ancient Malay kingdom I wonder why visit the fort and to savour the 'Ikan Alor Setar, the oldest city in Malaysia, and in Bakar', 'Laksa Teluk Kecai' and 'Pulut the region, is not declared a UNESCO World Sambal' in the town of Kuala Kedah. Heritage site. Unlike Melaka and Penang This writer recalled school expeditions that have colonial buildings, Alor Setar has

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