& 207 © Lonely Planet Lonely © Lembah Bujang – sons of bumiputra s, well, country: not paved, s, well, country: not paved, ’ AREA : 10,236 SQ KM 10,236 SQ KM : AREA  Pulau s domestic rice supply. s domestic rice supply. ’ Tujuh Gunung Telaga Machinchang

POPULATION: 2.17 MILLION 2.17 MILLION POPULATION:  Muzium Muzium ( p223 ) ( p223 ) Tree Temple s northwest corner are two states that fairly drip with greenness and fairly drip with greenness that s northwest states two corner are Pulau Langkawi Pulau ( p220 ) in Langkawi ) to enjoy the p219 ( Gunung Machinchang spectacular views or Chinese mansion at Buddhist kingdom at the Bujang ) in Lembah p210 ( Arkeologi Tujuh ( p219 )

Relaxing on one of the stunning beaches of Riding top of Langkawi’s the cable car to the Deciding between staying in a colonial villa Exploring Kedah’s history as a Hindu- pools of Telaga Sliding through the seven TELEPHONE CODE: 04 04 TELEPHONE CODE:

    HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS 

Perlis is the smallest state in ; physically and culturally it borders Kedah. in Malaysia; physically and culturally it borders is the smallest state It’s also Perlis Not that many foreigners see all this. While it may be one of the most touristed states states touristed While it may be one of the most see all this. Not that many foreigners

 whelmingly friendly and culturally significant. The are known as Malays are The whelmingly friendly and culturally significant. is most fertilethe soil – and that soil, physical and cultural, in Kedah and Perlis. Their loss: this corner of the country is partTheir of the Malay heartland, which makes it over- proximate to , and most travellers rush through here on their way to that kingdom. rush through here and most travellers to Thailand, proximate tanned arms busting with cartons Marlboros. of with a certain kind of shopper, and it’s not uncommon to see folks leaving the island with Langkawi on the sand. Langkawi’s status also makes it popular has that effect…) duty-free contributing to the harvest of over half of Malaysia contributing to the harvest of over days (Weeks? Months? no one will fault you for losing a few beyond the beach, although ridges. Limestone pillars thrust up through this paddyscape and peasants dot it, the latter paddyscape and peasants dot it, the latter Limestone pillars thrust up through this ridges. a fair bit to explore Langkawicommercial starring you, there’s is also a living island where not jungled over, but cultivated, cared for and landscaped into a horizon of looping emerald for and landscaped into cared but cultivated, not jungled over, is a cruise ship Langkawi. life places where One of those postcard holiday destination: Pulau That’s because almost everyone knows it by its biggest island and Malaysia’s number one knows it by its biggest island and Malaysia’s because almost everyone That’s in Malaysia, most travellers would draw a blank if you asked would about ‘Kedah.’ them anything in Malaysia, most travellers Borneo the nation at its wildest and ruggedest, this is the country Borneo the nation at its fertility: Kedah and Perlis. If is Malaysia at its most frenetically developed, and developed, is Malaysia at its most frenetically If Kuala Lumpur Kedah and Perlis. fertility: Tucked into Malaysia’ Tucked Kedah & Perlis & Perlis Kedah KEDAH & PERLIS ( For more the contact details, ofpanse junglerunning alongtheThaiborder. Perlis; p228 ) isaremote, 5000-hectare ex- park ofThe tinystate Perlis (Taman Negara National Parks hovers at around 90%. lessrainthanthemainland. Humidity to see tends pours atothertimes.PulauLangkawi is intermittent rainfallandoccasionaldown- odd tropicalstormisexpected, whereas there AprilandOctober, year isbetween when the theyear.32°C throughout Thewettest timeof climate, with temperatures 21°Cand between 208 Kedah andPerlis bothenjoyatypicaltropical Climate % International KEDAH &PERLIS Langkawi Pulau Singa Tarutao Airport Pulau Beras 945 7898) Ko Besar Basah EA ELS • lmt KEDAH &PERLIS••Climate Gunung (881m) Raya . The entire Langkawi archipelago. Theentire Langkawi A NDM Bunting Dayang Pulau S EA Pulau Tuba Langgun Pulau Langkawi Pulau Satun Payar Pulau Ὀ Perlis Kuala Gua Kelam (553m) Pelarit Negara Taman Bukit Perlis park visitorscentre Kangar Pinang Pulau 7 7 Georgetown Kaki Bukit Arau To HatYai (28km) Singkir Darat Ayer Itam PERLIS Kota Kuala Kota Sarang Setar Bayan Lepas Muda Yan Kecil Alor Semut Padang Airport Besar

Nibung Tebal

Chempedak jang

Bu 1

Parit Buntar Su Lembah ngai Guar Bujang E1

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Halim Airport Sultan Abdul Sadao Gunung (1217m)

E1

Jerai (Tollway) Langgar

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Kuala u Kuala Lumpur(313km) Ketil da To Ipoh(108km); Tasik Pedu Ulu Jerneh Tok Bidan Gunung (1862m) Bintang Gunung (1577m) (842m) Kampung 67 Baling (1199m) Bukit Pasir Baubak Gulau Terbang (574m) Hutan (1067m) Gunung (1801m) Bukit Gajah Inas Muda Tasik lonelyplanet.com PERAK 76 Gerik 76 (220km) To Kota Bharu 77 KEDAH & PERLIS 209 If not, it’s still worth spending some time worth spending some If not, it’s still During the 7th and 8th centuries, Kedah During the 7th and 8th centuries, Kedah would help pro- In the hope that the British For travellers’ purposes there are essentially are purposes there For travellers’ tect what remained of Kedah from Siam, the Kedah of what remained tect the British in to Penang sultan handed over in the early 18th century. Nevertheless, the late once again came under 19th century Kedah either di- it remained, Siamese control, where or as a vassal, until early in the 20th cen- rectly tury when Siam passed to the British. control civilisation on the peninsula – the society that would become the foundation stone for Malay places to come the first – and one of culture The latter into contact with Indian traders. would eventually to Malaysia, bring Islam whoseimpact cannot be cultural a religion overstated here. under the influence of fell Sumatra, but later the Siamese century, when the until the 15th the led to the Islamisation of Melaka rise of attacked was In the 17th century Kedah area. conquered by the Portuguese, who had already and by the Acehnese, who saw Kedah Melaka, spice production. to their own as a threat differ from those of most of the peninsula. peninsula. the most of differ those from of usually are offices Banks and government closed open a half- on Friday, but sometimes on the state, day on Saturday. For information dah.com.my. www.visitke out check History most historically signifi- the is one of Kedah states. Settlement goescant Malay back to the the earliest excavated and some of Stone Age, near in the country are sites archaeological finds in Lembah recent More Gunung Jerai. back to the Hindu-Buddhist Bujang date period in the 4th century AD, and the current royal family can trace its line back directly in Lembah Bujang Discoveries to this time. Hindu-Buddhist show that it was the cradle of of Asian agriculture, this state is the field of the field of is this state agriculture, Asian of van Gogh. inner to your sunflowers world, rural Across the meeting Malays. here working for being hard reputation a folk have holds true in Kedah cliché The and hospitable. the ruins over bent are farmers at least. Here and their Srivijaya, kingdoms like great of seek , in jobs IT children but to a as hell. all friendly man, they’re Langkawi of the tropical island two Kedahs: and its attached islets, and rural, little-visited state’s business hours Kedah mainland Kedah. paid tribute to the Srivijaya Empire of of to the Srivijaya Empire paid tribute KEDAH •• History

The paddy field is the eternal horizon of horizon of The paddy field is the eternal Langkawi by air from KL, can be reached

Langkawi who – local men boys’ ‘beach inspiration in the rustic, clean-lined aesthetic deep, alive green on the bottom, with strips green deep, alive webbing through. bitumen If you find of your eyesight: robin’s-egg blue on top and most productive. ‘rice bowl.’ Two blocks Malaysia’s Kedah, of colour constantly at the edge kiss of elegantly partitioned off and cultivated. Its elegantly partitioned off and cultivated. at its most vibrant, tamed into its nature and fecundity, all that green suggesting suggesting that green all and fecundity, yet so expertly and and life, wild, energy paddy. There’s something about its flatness something about paddy. There’s KEDAH feature The iconic man-made geographic is and ever was the rice Southeast Asia of car or motorbike. or car within the two states. There is no public is no public within the two states. There transport on Langkawi. to will have You a use around, unless you rent taxis to get quent, often leave at inconvenient times times at inconvenient leave quent, often not particularly useful for travelling and are Most of the big towns in Kedah and Perlis and Perlis big towns in Kedah the Most of infre- by bus. Trains are easily reached are Getting Around Getting Around Georgetown, Kuala Kedah and Kuala Perlis and Kuala Perlis Kuala Kedah Georgetown, in Thailand. and from Satun Georgetown and and by ferry from and by ferry and Singapore Georgetown Lumpur (KL). in Kedah Hitam in Kedah Lumpur (KL). Bukit Kayu the border are Besarand Padang in Perlis into Thailand. crossings to most major cities on the peninsula. It also cities on the peninsula. to most major flights to Kuala has an airport, with regular der. Alor Setar, the state capital of Kedah, is Alor Setar, Kedah, capital the state of der. with bus connections the main transport hub, Perlis, heading southwards to Butterworth southwards to Butterworth heading Perlis, to the Thai bor- and beyond, and northwards The main train line and the Lebuhraya and the Lebuhraya The main train line and through(North–South Hwy) run Kedah Getting There & Away Getting There & Away during our research. You may just want to You may research. during our careful. generally be reports of fights between ‘beach boys’ and fights boys’ and between of ‘beach reports incidents and saw such two male travellers hustling or flings with foreign women – have – have women with foreign hustling or flings for aggression bad reputation a particularly many read We’ve sleaziness. and general make a living off small tourism activities, living off a activities, tourism small make lonelyplanet.com KEDAH & PERLIS opposite the train station. ally abreeding groundforleaders of theBarisan kingdom onthepeninsula, datingbacktothe Hindu-Buddhist home tothemost important ries ago. Thearea westof SungaiPetani was conquered acrosstheIndian Oceancentu- Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms that tradedand ditions andsocietywere themedieval The sourceof much of Malay culture, tra- % LEMBAH BUJANG to AlorSetar (RM4, hourly). small bridge. Fromthere, express run buses clock tower,butafew blockseastacross a isalsosouthof busstation the long-distance and oneblockwestof themainstreet. The few hundred metres southof theclocktower are stand andtaxi onJlnPutri,a bus station (from RM16,fourtofive hours). Thelocal two (6.30amand3.40pm)toHat Yai, Thailand tion toKL(fromRM32,1011hours) and line, andthere isone(7.10pm)dailyconnec- southwest of the clock tower. just Bank, inthelanesbehindHSBC stalls 21 JlnPasar; rRM120; Hotel Malaysia lished prices.Anothergoodchoice isthe online, rates are less,of half,or even thepub- (nonsmoking) andgreat facilities.Ifyoubook a modernchain hotel withlarge, fresh rooms r/steRM300/450; .swissgarden.com; 1JlnPahlawan; centre. Thebestisthe at archaeology museum Bujang. Lembah transport connectionstoGunungJerai orthe isfor Butterworthbetween andAlorSetar, The onlyreason to stop at‘SP’,onthehighway % SUNGAI PETANI Islamist Parti Islam se-Malaysia (PAS). favour of theopposition, particularly the National rulingparty,cameoutstronglyin reluctantly. albeit part of theFederation of Malaya in1948, to beinvadedbytheJapanese, Kedah became with Kelantan) wasthefirst partof Malaya somewhat hybrid Malay-Thai culture. Thai andtheBritishmanifests, inplaces,asa This historyof changing the handsbetween 210 There andMalay are Chinese several food If youget stuck,there are afew hotels inthe During the2008elections,Kedah, tradition- Sungai Petani isonMalaysia’s maintrain After WWII,duringwhich Kedah (along 04 04 EA • Sna eai KEDAH ••SungaiPetani ( % a 423 4060; www.serimalaysia.com.my; 423 4060;www.serimalaysia.com.my; ) , abig,three-storey place Swiss Inn ( %

422 3333;www as Seri , ) Muzium Arkeologi Arkeologi Muzium and a statue ofand astatue theelephant god,Ganesh. display, such asafragmentof awall frieze lost,andonlyahandfulofbeen items are on havetefacts. most of However, thecarvings pottery andotherar-displays stonecarvings, 2.45-4.15pm Fri) 2005; admissionfree; Quaritch-Wales in 1936. until excavated byBritish archaeologist HG of Islam.Theyremained buriedinthejungle the temples were withthecoming deserted 14th centuryitssignificancehadfadedand The region continuedtotrade,butbythe Cholas againstthewaningSrivijayaEmpire. kingdom later forged analliancewiththe Cholas of Bujang India,but the Lembah Srivijaya andBujangwere attacked bythe I-Tsing (Yi Jing)inAD671.In1025 ited bythewell-travelled monk Chinese andSrivijayaempires,Khmer andwasvis- excavated. been alone 50archaeological sites have already Bujang KualaMuda,andinLembah Kota were scattered fromGunungJerai southto 10th centuries.HinduandBuddhisttemples reaching itsarchitectural peakinthe9thand part of thelarge Srivijaya Empire of Sumatra, 4th centuryAD.Bythe7thADitwas India and . from period andalandmark forships sailing a sacred intheancientHindu mountain nates the surrounding flatplains.Itwas The forest-clad 1217mGunungJerai domi- GUNUNG JERAI museum. the atMerbokoff (RM2)andwalkthe2kmto hourtoTanjung every roughly Dawai,get (RM70)oroneof thatruntaxi thebuses lage of . From Sungai Petani, take a Tanjung Dawairoad,2kmnorthof thevil- not have similar outlets. designed HinduandBuddhisttemples did ment tostrongIndianinfluence,aslocally the drainage ditches; theirpresence istesta- the 1000-year-old the site aspresented. Thelargest temple is tofullyappreciatelabelling andit’sdifficult nificance, thedisplaysdon’thave thebest Most numerousare yoni fertility stones. Along thebanksof Sungai Bujang,the The kingdomtradedwithIndiaandthe The archaeological museum is off the isoff The archaeological museum ofThough enormousarchaeological sig- chronicles theexcavations, and h

(Archaeological Museum; (Archaeological Museum; Candi Bukit BatuPahat Bukit Candi 8am-4.15pm Sun-Thu, 8am-noon& lonelyplanet.com % . Note 457 KEDAH & PERLIS 211 (Royal (Royal (town square) (town square) 731 2322; mtpbkdh Balai Besar % ( padang (Jln Raja) 8am-1pm & 2-4.45pm Sun-Wed, to 4.30pm (Jln Sultan Badlishah) (town square) is lined with mosques, a is lined with (town square) h Well, there’s some interesting architecture architecture interesting some Well, there’s Some impressive buildings front the town the town buildings front Some impressive PADANG PADANG open-sided The square. was built in 1898 and is still Audience Hall) for royal and used Kedah by the sultan of though it is not open to the ceremonies, state commercial district. Information in City cafes numerous internet are There per hour. around RM3 Point Plaza; all charge Maybank Tourist information office United Overseas Bank Sights that most businessesNote and museums closed from noon to 2pm on Friday for are This obviously doesIslamic prayers. not Buddhist temples. to extend padang colonial administra- sultan’s palace and a few buildings, although the town’s relatively tive to the British (1909) from the transferral late European influ- the scope of Thais reduced local buildings. ence on Orientation main three are purposes, there For travellers’ in Alor Setar interest that form a of areas The walkable triangle. the city’s inter- is surrounded by most of esting historical buildings. To the south, in the Sungai Anak Butik, is the the bend of Chinatown. East atmospheric, dilapidated Sungai Raja, across is City Point here, of the town’s mall that anchors Plaza, a large and reverence for the local monarchy. On the On the the local monarchy. for and reverence Alor Setarflip side, life where is a young city Shopping popular mall. a very around centres with rage and clothes is all the for electronics reverence obedience, kids. Austerity, Kedah’s mix of the odd capitalismand consumer are the closest up thing makes that ingredients scene. urban has to an Kedah The city’s long association with Thailand too. around is evident scattered in Thai temples small Chinese popu- town, while its relatively in a suitably atmospheric (if com- lation lives around the the area pact) Chinatown. And @tourism.gov.my; Kompleks Pelancongan Negeri Kedah, Kompleks Pelancongan @tourism.gov.my; Jln Raja; town centre. Thu) South of the Setar KEDAH •• Alor with exhibits on 423 4345; s & d RM60, % (

forestrymuseum The only place to stay, this is a ) a

04 There are few opportunities for hiking or for hiking or opportunities few are There

Although bus No 2 between the local A few kilometres downhill from the re- downhill kilometres A few From the base of the mountain, the the baseFrom a steep and of native trees and their uses, the but little on trees native mountain’s The highlight fauna. flora and is ences a fairly strict interpretation of Islam Islam of ences a fairly strict interpretation Thailand, Langkawi or southern Malaysia, but Langkawi or southern Malaysia, Thailand, enough you exploring around to keep there’s city, culturally Malay for a day. This is a very in a conservativerooted mindset that refer- % also use Kedah, the capital of Most travellers known as Alor Star, as a hopping-off point to you could also take a taxi or a local Guar a taxiyou could also take a local Guar or car park. Chempedak bus to the ALOR SETAR the car park on Hwy 1, the express servicesthe car park on Hwy 1, the express use From Sungai Petani the Lebuhraya instead. Sungai Petani and Alor Setar passesSungai Petani right by at the bottom of the mountain, minibuses at the bottom of every 45 approximately run up to the resort from 8.30am to 5pm (RM5). Private minutes the road. can also use vehicles Gunung Jerai is 30km north of Sungai Petani, Sungai Petani, is 30km north of Gunung Jerai Gurun just is 3km north of and the turn-off . From the car park before Getting There & Away Getting There & Away

f RM110; with accommodation divided resort low-key and between rooms and six larger, 20 dated hot water All have chalets. preferable, more and TVs, a and and you’ll find a restaurant the resort. at basic shop Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating Peranginan Gunung Jerai the forest to a waterfall and bathing pools. and to a waterfall the forest an enormous fossilised elephant dropping. trail leads through From the museum a paved sort is a tiny Telaga Sembilan, a 6th-century Hindu bath- Telaga the of is the property but the area ing shrine, off limits. is ministry and defence The road itself continues 3km past the re- Candi of remains sort to the peak and the exploring away from the paved road, although from the paved exploring away here. at the sole resort arranged a guide can be to Langkawi. From here there are expansive views north views north expansive are there From here and over Kedah paddies of across the rice narrow road snakes its way 13km through its way 13km a road snakes narrow to a sleepy park hill resort. recreation forest Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book ὈὈ ὈὈ

KEDAH & PERLIS royal palace for the sultan andothermem- royal palaceforthesultan h colonial style. Today it houses the colonial style. Today ithouses is stillbuiltinadistinctive, white-columned British Malaya atthetime,courthouse Kedah Although house. wasnot part of Negeri Balai Seni admire the buildings. enjoyable towanderroundthecourtyard and paraphernalia of theroyalfamily,it’squite bers housing of thefamilyfrom1856.Besides Raja shows Thaiinfluencesin its decoration. Victorian ironlacework, thebuildingalso public. Supported pillars ontall toppedwith 212 Tanjung Chali (Watchtower) To MuziumPadi(11.3km); Kangar (45km) Kuala Kedah(17km);

4

1 3 2 ALOR SETAR

Sungai Anak Butik Anak Sungai Jln Seberang Perak Seberang Jln Next to the Balai Besar isthe Besar Next totheBalai At thesouthernedge of thesquare isthe Menara 12 10am-6pm, from9.30amFri) Kotar Star

(Royal Museum; (Royal Museum; EA • Ao ea KEDAH ••AlorSetar

Jln Department Jln Lumpur

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Sungai (Jln Pengalan Kapal) Pengalan (Jln Sentosa

Sungai Store

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Butterworth (93km) Kedah Jln Menanti

Jln Pekan

, builtin1893as acourt- Perak % Melayu Putra Jln 15 14 Jln Sungai Korok Jln Sultan Muhamad Jiwa Jln Pintu Sepuluh 732 7937; Jln Raja; admissionfree; 732 7937;JlnRaja; 9 2 Jln Raja Padang Kampung Kampung Tuan Pah Kanchut , which served asthe , which served Merah 3 6 Sungai Raja 7 4

11 Jln Limbong Kopal Jln Jln 8 5

Langgar Tunku Ibrahim To Tokai

20 Lebuhraya Darul Aman 10 18

Lg Puteh Lg (Jln Kanchut) B Muzium Di Muzium 25 23 State Art Art State To MuziumNegeri(1.5km); Shahab PerdanaExpress

Jln Mahsuri 1

Wangsa Inn(3.5km);

Jln Telok Wanjah Telok Jln Bus Station(3.5km);

Sultan AbdulHalim

Jln Jln 21 Airport(10.5km)

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24

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6pm) Jln Sultan Badlishah porary Malaysian art. Court erected in 1922. weddings. royal out onlyonceremonial occasions such as the public,andinstrumentsare brought Melaka inthe15thcentury.Itisn’topento tohave ofsaid agiftfromthesultan been struments; thedrumsinthisorchestra are repository of the topped byanonion-shapeddome. It’sthe tower Drums; 1906)isastrikingoctagonal Gallery principally composed ofprincipally composed percussionin- Alor Setar Just behind the Balai Nobatisthe Just behindtheBalai To thenorth, anddisplaysadecentgalleryof contem- , aclassicalwhite colonial building 13 ( % 732 5752; Jln Raja; admissionfree; 732 5752;JlnRaja;

0.3miles 500m Jln Stadium 0 0 Lg Petani 19 TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Pekan Rabu...... Kedai MakananLautHaadyai...... Hotel Samila...... Hotel Regent...... Holiday Villa...... Flora Inn...... Comfort Motel...... Wat SiamNikrodharam...... Birthplace)...... Muzium DiRaja...... Menara AlorStar...... Masjid Zahir...... High Court...... Clock Tower...... Balai SeniNegeri(StateArtGallery).... Balai Nobat...... Balai Besar...... United OverseasBank...... Maybank...... Taxi Station...... ExpressBusStation...... Bus StopforSungaiPetani...... Snack Bars...... Restoran Rose...... Local BusStationforShahabPerdana Rumah KelahiranMahathir(Mahathir's A3 Tourist InformationOffice...... nobat Balai Nobat

(royalorchestra), Lebuh Titi Siam lonelyplanet.com D (Hall of h 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 High 10am- B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 B3 C1 B2 B3 C3 A3 A2 C1 A4 B3 B2 A2 B2 B2 B3 B2 B2 B3 B3 KEDAH & PERLIS )

a 213 Very Very )

(Mahathir’s a 735 1315; off K351 Hwy; This is a good- ) 10am-6pm, from 9.30am Fri) % a h 734 4866; 2C Jln Kampung % ( is now preserved small as a 731 1900; www.regentalorsetar.com; 731 1900; www.regentalorsetar.com; 732 2375; http://florainn.tripod.com; 8 % ( Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir into rice, you’ll love it. The main into rice, you’ll love

772 2319; No 18 Lg Kilang772 2319; No 18 Ais; admission free; (Paddy Museum; (Paddy

% ( % really 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Comfort Motel 1536 Jln Sultanah Badlishah; s/d RM98/150; a mid-priced Western of reminiscent much slightly (with dimmer lighting), chain motel ugly comes with the requisite the Regent bad art, comfy rooms and clean blankets, included. Breakfast facilities. Flora Inn Kompleks Medan Raja, Jln Pengkalan Kapal; s/d RM13/65; the ‘magnifi- Flora Inn is sold as overlooking than is little more which cent’ Sungai Kedah, you will find clean, glop. That aside, algal green by Chinatown and situated rooms here cheap is a small food court, and the management bend-over-backwards friendly. s RM25-40, d RM35-50; Perak; in a renovated value Chinese located hotel, wooden house The across from the mosque. and gleaming tiled floors rooms all have TVs, ones though only the higher-priced bathrooms. private have MIDRANGE Hotel Regent is all about Kedah’s main crop: rice. It’s lo- It’s main crop: rice. Kedah’s is all about the city, amid, 10km northwest of about cated rice paddies. The enough,appropriately green brass flying stacked resembles complex, which is supposed the gunny saucers, to emulate sacks Inside…well, if used by rice farmers. you’re rotating observationevent is a top-floor deck the surround- of that looks out onto a mural the rather idyllic ing rice fields (rather than gimmick pays homage the fields themselves); hill a nearby limestone to Gunung Keriang, is also sup- that, according to local folklore, to rotate. posed Sleeping BUDGET MAHATHIR’S BIRTHPLACE BIRTHPLACE MAHATHIR’S fourth prime Mohamad, bin Dr Mahathir keystone and longtime Malaysia of minister of born the youngest national politics, was of Setar in Alor nine children in 1925. His child- hood home, Birthplace; h museum, containing family effects, photos old bicycle. and the politician’s MUZIUM PADI Muzium Padi adult/child/camera RM3/1/2; , is , is The The 733 1162; 733 1162; 10am-6pm, 10am-6pm, which, at which, % h (Telekom Tower; Masjid Zahir Setar KEDAH •• Alor than a smoothed- (Buddhist temple): (Buddhist temple): 9.30am-10pm) (sharia) court complex. court (sharia) (State Museum; h wat

Menara Alor Star , painted in the same yellow and , painted yariah is 2km north of the Padang. the Padang. is 2km north of Muzium Negeri clock tower 720 2234; www.menaraalorstar.com.my; Lebuhraya Darul Lebuhraya 720 2234; www.menaraalorstar.com.my; If the Petronas Towers weren’t enough for weren’t Towers If the Petronas Most local buses from town to the express- On the opposite side of the lane, the decora- side of On the opposite The Kedah state mosque, mosque, state The Kedah the town centre costs RM8. the town centre bus station pass by the museum. A taxi from cavations at Lembahcavations Bujang and dioramas life. Malaysian royal and rural of The small collection includes early Chinese ex- from archaeological porcelain, artefacts The The MUZIUM NEGERI MUZIUM NEGERI (as mixed up as a Catholic(as mixed cathedral crossed church). Protestant with a Mahayana and Thai Theravada Buddhism Buddhism and Thai Theravada Mahayana funded the construction of this complex. this complex. funded the construction of those typically Malaysian This is one of Chinese cultural blends, in this case of typically Thai with its stupas, fire-in-the- with Chinese Buddhist yet scattershot reliefs, who import to the Chinesesaints, donors of this cross-cultural and Angkor Wat–esque wall lotus imagery occupation, its main Buddhist community occupation, its main Buddhist community of is Chinese Thus the presence in heritage. WAT SIAM NIKRODHARAM NIKRODHARAM SIAM WAT Although Alor Setar Thai has weathered the surrounding countryside. There’s a re- There’s the surrounding countryside. at the top, though it’s not volving restaurant always open. % Aman; adult/child RM6/3; in town. 165.5m, is also the tallest structure you to the obser- A glass-sided lift will take Alor Setar of vation deck for good views and you in KL, the second-tallest tower in the country is the tive tive as the Balai was erected Nobat, livery white the muezzin at the in the early 1900s so that when to mosque would know neighbouring to prayer. call the faithful fought Thais in 1821. Behind the the struc- to the secular in contrast Highture, Court, is s the religious out modern Malaysian mosque. The building The mosque. Malaysian out modern who warriors Kedah of encloses the cemetery in Malaysia. Built in 1912, it has a classical Built in 1912, it has in Malaysia. apparition from an of beauty, more One Nights Thousand and one of the largest and most beautiful mosques mosques and most beautiful the largest one of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book from 9.30am Fri) Lebuhraya Darul Aman; admission free; Darul Aman; admission free; Lebuhraya KEDAH & PERLIS towering hotel adjoiningtheCityPoint 162 Jln Tunku Ibrahim; rfromRM310; 162 JlnTunku Ibrahim; is certainly is certainly more convenient. border may bequickerthe Padang and Besar for thisbordercrossing). Adirect trainvia go toHat Yai BukitKayu Hitam, (see p226 , go totheborder, fromwhere minibustaxis bordertoThailand. Frequent Hitam buses is48kmfromtheBukit KayuAlor Setar Getting There&Away you canget noodles and coffee. Ibrahim) the market isgiven over to clothes shops. sticky rice,coconutanddurian).Therest of ( durian localproductssuchmarket as sell stalls offer snackfoodanddrinkswhileupstairs day, untillate Ground-floor atnight. outlets fast, lunch&dinner) Rabu Pekan QUICK EATS families. local loudmasticationofto thepleasantly happy hums andThaistyle. Generally in Chinese is wonderfullyfresh andprepared mainly thatoncecalledabodyofelse water home fish, cockles,lobsters andanydamnthing intown,the by localsasthebestseafood Jln Stadium;mainsfromRM10; thereof). lack if perfectly cleancafeteria atmosphere (or tatty and biryanidishes intheusualslightly uptheusualcurries,roti restaurant serving from RM4; Rose Restoran RESTAURANTS Eating anda gym, asauna few restaurants. rooms andarange of facilities,includinga in town.Ithasspacious,tastefully furnished Plaza shopping malliseasilythebestplace Holiday Villa TOP END a goodspotforexploring the Padang. andquiet.Situated in fort, courteous service midrange spotandget alittlemore: com- RM120/160; 214 There are somesimple Samila Hotel Kedai Makanan LautHaadyai Makanan Kedai EA • KaaKdh KEDAH ••KualaKedah atthefrontof CityPointPlaza,where h a gelatinous madefrom localsweet a (Wednesday Market; JlnLanggar; (Wednesday Market;

lunch &dinner) (

% ) ( Youpayalittlemore atthis % ( % This goes on all day, every onallday,every Thisgoes 734 9999;www.holidayvilla.com.my; 731 3471; Jln Sultan Baldishah; mains 731 3471;JlnSultanBaldishah; 731 8888; 27 Jln Kanchut; s/dfrom 731 8888;27JlnKanchut; Long-runningIndian h coffee shops 6.30pm-2am) ( % as 732 5036;1915 Praised Praised (Jln Tunku (Jln h ) This break- dodol station includeRM40toBukitKayu station Hitam, forafour-passenger Rates from thetaxi taxi TAXI from theexpress-bus stop station here too. posite the Pekan market. Somebuses Rabu hour) make astoponJlnTunkuIbrahimop- Kota Bharu (RM28). (RM44.45), KualaTerengganu (RM41.40)and to east-coastdestinationsincludingKuantan (RM55),aswell (RM35) andJohor Bahru (RM17), Butterworth (RM6.30),Melaka different companies,toKL(RM30),Ipoh are alsoregular coaches, operated byseveral (RM3.80) andKualaKedah (RM1).There day forBukitKayu (RM3.20),Kangar Hitam leave buses long-distance from here. town centrecostsRM10.All Ataxi (90sen). onJlnMergong,station 4kmnorthof the totheShahab Perdanaservice express-bus includingtheregularonly localbuses, shuttle handles onJlnLanggar The tinybusstation BUS can beaslowRM35 after taxes. promotionalfaresflights; toKualaLumpur Airlines, AirAsia andFirefly alloffer daily of townjustoffMalaysia theLebuhraya. AbdulSultan Halim Airportis11kmnorth AIR a cannon stuckinthedebris of thecollapsed (The WallowingRhino), Berendam’ Badak to invaders in1821. Trytofind‘Meriam finallyfalling ence againstwarring Siamese, castle becameabastion of Malay independ- history’s littletwists,thisPortuguese-built on thefarbankof SungaiKedah. Inoneof fort builtaround1770opposite thetown If youhave time,visit isthesoutherngateway toLangkawi. Setar This busyfishing village 11kmfromAlor % KUALA KEDAH KL (fromRM35, 11½ hours). RM12, three hours), andonesouthbound to northbound traintoHat Yai inThailand(from east of thetowncentre. There isonedaily The TRAIN to KualaKedah andRM40to Padang Besar. RM65 toButterworth, RM30toKangar, RM18 Bus services toSungai Petani (RM3.70,one Bus services Frequent the departthroughout buses 04 train station

( % 731 4045;JlnStesyen) Kota Kuala Kedah lonelyplanet.com issouth- , a KEDAH & PERLIS 215 Information on the A comprehensive source A comprehensive Ferry timetables and fares. Ferry 966 3333; Jln Bukit Tengah, 966 3333; Jln Bukit Tengah, (strong). Classical Malay 955 2466; Pantai Cenang; per hr 955 2466; Pantai % (

% kawi kawi ( (eagle) and (eagle) (gravy) was spilt at Kuah and seeped into Langkawi is in the Airport International On Langkawi’swest coast, the most devel- kuah ecosustainability, although this track ecosustainability, althoughthis track RM3) One of the cheaper internet cafes. internet cheaper RM3) One of the INTERNET RESOURCES www.langkawi-ferry.com www.langkawigeopark.com.my www.langkawi-online.com Muda. There are a few isolated resorts here, here, resorts isolated a few are There Muda. The north poor. is pretty but the beach resorts the island hides upmarket coast of Rhu Dataiin the west and Tanjung at Teluk east. the in 5km north the island, about part of western Cenang. Pantai of Information EMERGENCY Langkawi Hospital Kuah) INTERNET ACCESS InternationalTCY record isn’t perfect. record Orientation Langkawi km. folks, almost 500 sq is big the island, southeast corner of Kuah, in the point for town and the arrival is the main elsewhere. are the beaches but ferries, Cenang, and its south- is Pantai oped beach Pantai Tengah. Pantai of erly appendage re- is lined with luxury beach Kok’s lovely The airport is sorts and a modern marina. coast near Kuala on the island’s central-west information. of island island’s geopark status. island’s geopark helang

kampungs (Langkawi, the (hot water) came to land where Air Hangat village is today. The fathers of these Air Hangat village is today. The came to land where (hot water) to Langkawi leave ap- to Langkawileave Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau air panas 762-6295) % (

Another legend concerns the naming of places around the island. Pulau Langkawi’s two most the island. Pulau Another legend concerns the naming of places around

04 powerful families became involved in a bitter argument over a marriage proposal. A fight broke out over powerful argument in a bitter became involved families The used as missiles. and all the kitchen were utensils literature claims the island as one of the resting places of Garuda, the mythological bird that became places of Garuda, the mythological claims the island as one of the resting literature story is of Mahsuri,in legends, and the favourite a maiden whole island is steeped The vehicle. Vishnu’s she put a curse finally allowing herself to be executed, who was wrongly accused of infidelity. Before blood flowed from her veins, proof of her innocence, white As generations. on the island for seven ). p217 Kuah Her mausoleum can be seen near turning the sands of Langkawi’s ( beaches white. LEGENDARY LANGKAWI LANGKAWI LEGENDARY name LangkawiThe Malay words combines the old the ground at Kisap, which means ‘to seep’. A pot landed at Belanga Perak (Broken Pot) and finally the the ground at Kisap, at Belanga Perak which means ‘to seep’. A pot landed saucepan of two families got their comeuppance for causing all this mayhem – they are now the island’s two major two families got their comeuppance for causing all this mayhem – they are ). p217 ( at the intriguing Lagenda Langkawi You can learn more Dalam Taman mountain peaks.

Get just a little ways off the main Get the main just a little ways off Ferries behaviour is a commendable focus on focus on is a commendable behaviour but come night, there’s a fair amount a fair amount but come night, there’s the bad Past fun about. booze-fuelled of sight that sears itself into your eyeballs), sight that sears itself into your eyeballs), but Langkawi is an exception to this rule. but Langkawi is an exception to this rule. You’ll still see wholesome all sorts of of fun happening (hundreds Malaysian is a on a beach line dancing Malays is fun. Compared to Thailand, Malaysia’s to Thailand, Malaysia’s is fun. Compared to alcohol, dry when it comes islands are cars (tourists do tend to bring the ring- (tourists do tend cars itts with them). And Langkawi, frankly, this is idyllic rural Malaysia, all this is idyllic rural Malaysia, some nice and oil lamps and admittedly beaches (themselves pretty pristine) and pristine) and pretty (themselves beaches Langkawi Permata Kedah Permata Langkawi Kedah). of Jewel Since 2008 the archipelago’s official title is Since 2008 the archipelago’s by 478.5-sq-km Pulau Langkawi, have not Langkawi,by 478.5-sq-km Pulau not have beyond recognition. been overdeveloped since 1986 The district’s been duty free that. well before and roping in tourists mellow come sunset). their immense Despite drawing power, these 99 islands, dominated of jungle green and ocean blue (offset by (offset and ocean blue by jungle green of purple and golden rich brilliant blood red, Langkawi ‘tropical para- is synonymous with dise’:cool colour contrast swaying palms, a PULAU LANGKAWI PULAU LANGKAWI % proximately every half-hourproximately from (1½ hours the wet season) April to October, 7am from RM23/17). to 7pm (adult/child sea wall, believed to be the abode of the sea the wall, believed abode of to be the spirit. guardian fortress’s lonelyplanet.com KEDAH & PERLIS look. Tourism Malaysia Malaysia Tourism TOURIST INFORMATION change moneyifyou are not a guest. hotels, which a)give badratesnot andb)might where mosttravellers have torely ontheresort moneychangers butelse- atPantai Cenang, around duty-free shops. There are acoupleof There are alsomoney changers tucked intoand ATMs attheairportandTelaga Harbour Park. The onlybanksare there atKuah,although are MONEY www.mylangkawi.com 216 on the whole island. Kuah; 4 1 3 2 PULAU LANGKAWI h EA • PluLnkw KEDAH ••Pulau Langkawi Telaga Tujuh 25 9am-1pm & 2-6pm) Comprehensive information Andaman Teluk Machinchang Datai Sea Gunung Burau 60 AC Pulau (708m) 38 29 Pulau Datai Pantai Kok ( % 24 Rebak See Enlargement 113 Pulau Besar 21 Pulau Kentut 9 966 7789;JlnPersiaran Putra, 43 a This websiteisalsoworth Besar Basah Pulau Beras Tepor Waterfall Pulau Jln Teluk Yu Temurun Rebak Pulau Kecil 44 (Strait ofChinchin) Muda Kuala Pulau Besar Singa Selat Chinchin 26 19 115 Teluk (Langkawi) Pantai Cenang Ewa 11 International Airport Langkawi Jln Temoyong 6 B

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maintown,andthe Kuah isLangkawi’s variety of trips aroundtheislandandto oftrips variety Pulau Payar. Thisleadingtouroperatorrunsa Kuah) siaran BungaRaya, tours round Langkawi and tours roundLangkawi Perlis. o interest. of free shopping. There are, afew however, points reason tostop here isforbanks, ferries orduty- KUAH &AROUND Sights &Activities Shop Travel TCY International &Tours Travel Legend Admire Bayu Adventures TRAVEL AGENCIES Malibest Resort, thisplacecanbook anarrayof Resort, Malibest island tours. Kuah) Arranges day trips and package trips to trips andpackage Arrangesdaytrips Kuah) Thailand.

Gua Raya 15 Gaung Padang 112 108 Padang Lalang 31 2 Perangin Durian Kuah Jetty 47 Bumbon Besar 3 To PulauPayar Pulau Tuba ( Marine Park; Georgetown 6miles 10km 0 0 112 28 % (Penang) 20 8 30 1

955 8829;Pantai Cenang)Attachedtothe Pulau 52

10 Jln

( ( 18 Hangat Air % Pulau Tilol % 16 49 Kuah Langkawi Fair 7 To Kuala To Kuala 13 Kedah 966 0006; Jetty PointComplex, 966 0006;Jetty 955 2466;Pantai Cenang)Runs Perlis Langgun Pulau 113 Enlargement 0 0 27 41 ( 33 % 58 Cenang lonelyplanet.com Pantai 17 0.1 miles 200 m 46 Tengah Pantai 966 1368;50Per- 12 Timun Dendang 23 Pulau D 37 Pulau 56 Pentai Cenang 42 (Langkawi) 32 35 22 34 45 40 48 55 54 (Thailand) 51 To Satun 4 36 57 50 53 39 5 59 KEDAH & PERLIS

C1 D4 C2 D4 D3 C3 D4 D4 D4 D3 D3 D3 D4 A2 217 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Galeria Perdana . Established by Mahathir . Established by Mahathir Tomato...... (see 35) Tomato...... (see 21) Zabinsa's USSR Restaurant.....(see 45) 1812 Bar...... (see Bob Marley Bar...... 50) Little Lylia's Chill Out Bar...... (see 45) Reggae Bar...... (see Sunba Retro Bar...... Oriental Village...... Zon Duty Free Shopping Centre...... (see 22) Tanjung Rhu Resort...... Tanjung 26) Tree...... (see Temple Resort...... Tropical 53) Zackry Guest House...... (see Barn Thai ...... Boom Boom Corner...... Champor-Champor...... Charlie's Place...... Fat Mum's...... Frangipani...... Kantan...... 60) Krathong...... (see 26) Nam...... (see Pasar Malam...... 4) Putumayo...... (see Red Tomato...... EATING SHOPPING D4 D3 A1 C2 C1 D3 D3 D4 D3 D3 D3 A2 D3 D3 D3 D3 A3 B2 A2 D4 D3 A1 A2 B3 D3 C2 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 45 46 3637 38 DRINKING 39 40 41 42 43 44 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 959 1498; RM10; Air Hangat; admission 8.30am-5.30pm) If you’ve been wondering what to beento wondering what If you’ve % KOTA MAHSURI & PADANG MATSIRAT MATSIRAT & PADANG MAHSURI KOTA supposedly bleeding white blood, a sign of supposedly blood, a sign of bleeding white the Siamese Not long after, her innocence. later, invaded the island, and some 160 years in 1987 (that’s about seven generations) Langkawi took off as a tourism destina- tion. That’s the story anyways, and its been what everyone else bought at ( h passed weird gifts that get between foreign Ming racers, (F-1 state nations and heads of face – that with Mahathir’s vases painted thing). of sort the Back is debated), around 1819 (the date was unjustly accused princess Mahsuri Malay stabbing. With by and executed adultery of Langkawi cursed she with her dying breath bad luck and expired, seven of generations as Asia’s first fully covered wildlife park. There park. There wildlife covered fully first as Asia’s animals around (with an em- plenty of are phasis on exotic birds), but we can’t say all of for. cared them look well get former Prime Minister Dr Mahathir Dr Mahathir former Prime Minister get you could see for his birthday, Mohamad himself, the museum displays the sort of himself, the museum displays the sort of CHOGM quarry. It’s Langkawi Bird Grand Beach Resort...... Holiday Villa...... Langkapuri Beach Resort...... Langkawi Boutique Resort...... Malibest Resort...... Mutiara Burau Bay...... Nadia's Inn Comfort Langkawi.. Palms Guest House...... Pelangi Beach Resort...... Rainbow Lodge...... Rebak Marina Resort...... Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort...... Sunset Beach Resort...... Sweet Inn...... Pro Dive...... (see 35) Pro Dive...... (see Park...... Telaga Harbour World...... Underwater AB Motel...... Andaman Langkawi...... Beach & Spa Berjaya Langkawi Resort...... Bon Ton Resort...... Casa del Mar...... City Bayview Hotel...... 46) Daddy's Guest House...... (see Datai Langkawi...... Eagle Bay Hotel...... Four Seasons Resort...... Gecko Guesthouse...... 60) Geopark Hotel...... (see SLEEPING Gunung Raya Golf B2 C3 C3 C1 A1 C2 B1 D3 C2 B1 C2 C3 D3 C2 B2 C3 C2 C2 D3 D4 , designed by golf Lagenda Langkawi , which touts itself, which 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 20 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 rising above rising above 7am-7pm) Kedah Marble is a landscaped ‘folklore is a landscaped ‘folklore 9am-6pm) h 966 4223; Jln Persiaran Putra; admis- Putra; 966 4223; Jln Persiaran Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau h % (

966 5855; 1485 Jln Kisap, off Jln Air Hangat; 8am-7pm) Masjid Al-Hana 966 8148; www.golfgr.com.my; Jln Air Hangat; 966 8148; www.golfgr.com.my; % ( h % (

, which, as a plaque proudly states, as a plaque proudly states, , which, In the same area you’ll find you’ll find In the same area The international-standard Just to the west are the golden onion golden onion the Just to the west are Next to the jetty, the Next to the jetty, the Langkawi Crocodile Farm...... Masjid Al-Hana...... Nawa Sari Spa...... (see 17) Langkawi Cable Car...... (see 60) Langkawi Cable Car...... (see 16) Langkawi Coral ...... (see Taman...... Laman Padi...... Langkawi Bird Paradise...... Kompleks Kraf Langkawi...... Kota Mahsuri...... Lagenda Langkawi Dalam Museum...... Indian Ayurvedic Massage...... Kedah Marble ...... Gunung Raya Golf Resort...... Ibrahim Hussein Foundation East Marine...... Galeria Perdana...... Golf Club Datai Bay...... Anna & The King Gallery...... (see 60) Anna & The King Burnt Rice Area...... 20) CHOGM Park...... (see Travel Shop...... (see 37) Travel Shop...... (see TCY International...... 20) Tourism Malaysia...... (see Legend Admire Travel & Tours.... Legend Admire Moneychanger...... 17) Post Office...... (see Bayu Adventures...... Hospital...... Langkawi SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION open to visitors. open in a spectacular location in the foothills of in a spectacular location in the foothills of Langkawi’s highest mountain. Just south of the golf club is the Resort Resort 9/18 holes RM150/200; town of 8km north is about Wexler, guru Max leaders met here in 1989. met here leaders Paradise 1987 (won by Sri Lanka).The flags repre- the Commonwealth, whose of sent members was the site of the first-ever international international the first-ever of was the site in climbing championship coconut-tree domes of domes of Park illustrate severalillustrate Langkawi – with legends a nar- there’s – and signboards in English It’s a popular beach. strip of row, mediocre for joggers. spot theme park’ that stretches along the water- theme park’ that stretches front. Bright statues amid the lakes dotted Dalam Taman Dalam Taman sion free; lonelyplanet.com adult/child RM15/8; KEDAH & PERLIS is theZonduty-free shopping centre and for the kids. of acleaning, butingeneral it’sagreat place some feel like atropicalaquarium inneed cially therainforest walk)are wellexecuted; freshwater creatures. Some exhibits(espe- featuring 200different speciesof marineand to 8.30pmFri-Sun) adult/childRM38/28; langkawi.com.my; World Underwater hired boatfrom Pantai Cenang. The islandof Kecil tothenearbyislandofthis sandbar November andJanuary youcanwalkacross life.lowing youtoinspectlocalsea Between sometimesappearsA sandbar atlowtide,al- water, green palms andallthatgoodstuff. season. low in isfairlysedate PantaiThat said, Cenang window shopandgenerally make merry. makers take tothemainroadeat,drink, tourists, backpackers andpackage holiday- time,anoddmixofnight expats,domestic budget andmidrange accommodation.Come resorts here, aswellthebulkof Langkawi’s main vein. There are somevery finetop-end otherspots,butitisLangkawi’s wild asthose west of Kuah. OK, this 2kmbeach isn’tas Rd and gets Pantai 25kmLangkawi Cenang, VegasLas hasKhaosan hasthestrip,Bangkok PANTAI CENANG beaches and the airport metres off theroadleadingtowest-coast burnt grainsto the surface. heavy rainstillsometimesbringstracesof into thehandsof invaders. It’ssaid Siamese their ricefieldsratherthanallowthemtofall Padang Matsirat inthe‘ times beseen Thursday); thecost is RM99. dance takes placefrom8pmto11pm(except way dinnertheatre ontraditional thatfocuses some simplefoodoutlets.Afun-in-a-corny- atheatre, andhouse, a‘dioramamuseum’ stone) aswellare-creation of atraditional Mahsuri’s Shrine (afenced-in slabof white h % commemorated by 218 At thesouthernendof Pantai Cenang The beach isgorgeous: white teal sand, sites areThese westof Kuah,afew kilo- A result of Mahsuri’s curse canstillsome- 8am-6pm) 955 6055; Mukim Ulu Melaka; adult/childRM10/5; UluMelaka; 955 6055;Mukim , butonlyfortwohours aroundlowtide. EA • PluLnkw KEDAH ••Pulau Langkawi , ahistoricalcomplexthatincludes , Malaysia’s largest aquarium, Pulau Tepor . There, villagers onceburnt

( % 955 6100;www.underwaterworld Kota Mahsuri field ofburntrice canbereached by h

(Mahsuri’s Fort; Fort; (Mahsuri’s 9.30am-6.30pm, Pulau Rebak Pulau Rebak ’ atnearby an unassuminghut200moff themainroad. 5585; Pantai Tengah; pretty posh pampering–airtreatments, harbourfront shopping complexplunked few cheaper chalet clusters. sorts here, goodrestaurants andbars anda Tengah. There are afew big,all-inclusive re- headland, you’re inmore upscalePantai polished; astheroadloopsaroundarocky Head southand gets alittlemoreLangkawi PANTAI TENGAH you withfree pick-up service. around RM65 to RM195. and shoulders are massaged. Treatments cost oil ispoured over yourforehead asyourhead hara, Customers rave about treatments like ( ferent oilyrubdownat Thai masseurs (massages RM45 to RM100). breeze whileyou’re pummelledandoiledby contently watch ricepaddiesswayunderthe .com; LamanPadi; and rice cultivation,somerestaurants, apostoffice ducks. There’s dedicated to alsoamuseum and paddies populated bywater buffaloes ‘ecotourism’ complexwithpicturesque rice free; hotel is Thu, fromnoon Wed,9.30am-7pmFri-Sun) ( for plex andthestation Village shoppingcome acrossOriental com- amid somevery fine nature. (www.telagaharbour.com) amall. jungle and,sadly, ful baysurroundedbylimestonemountains, of Pantai Pantai Cenang, Kokfronts abeauti- On the western partof theisland,12kmnorth PANTAI KOK treatments. multiday from aroundRM100toRM350,more for boasts allsortsof run modernaccents.Rates wood, frangipaniandthelike), butalso space thatscreams (dark traditionalsetting body scrubs,herbalbaths andthelike –ina ing, thesixspasuites at % % At the northern end opposite Casa delMarAt thenorthernendopposite Casa Heading inlandfromPantai Kokyou’ll For thetraveller of inneed somespoil- Call theabove ifthey’llprovideCall spastosee If Thaimassage isn’tyourthing,get adif- 955 9078;www.langkawi-ayurvedic-massage.com) 959 4225;adult/childRM25/18; h Nawa Sari Spa Nawa Sari where acontinualflowof warmherbal grounds 7am-midnight,museum10am-6pm) Laman Padi h (Rice Garden; Garden; (Rice

10am-11pm) h

( % isayachting marina/ 10am-10pm) 955 4168;http://nawasarispa Indian Ayurvedic Massage IndianAyurvedic Langkawi Cable Car Car Cable Langkawi Telaga HarbourPark , where youcan % Ishan Spa h lonelyplanet.com 955 4312;admission offer some 10am-6pm Mon- , which will ( shirod- % , , in

955 an

KEDAH & PERLIS 219 959 1913; admission free; 959 1913; admission free; % (

is halfway between is halfway the , an enormous handicrafts centre handicrafts centre , an enormous 10am-6pm) Before reaching the beach, you’ll pass the the beach, Before reaching ce- You’ll also eventually pass the Kedah Eventually you’ll reach Tanjung Rhu, Rhu, Tanjung you’ll reach Eventually Temurun WaterfallTemurun and namesake. It’s good art, especially if you art, especially It’s good and namesake. On clear days, the sunsets here give ‘stunning’ give On clear days, the sunsets here is shallow, and at new meaning. The water low tide you can walk across the sandbank to islands, except during the the neighbouring monsoon season. mangrove Local shops offer be hired. cruises, and kayaks can the green. RHU TANJUNG of Hitam at the village Just beyond Pasir with a Lalang a roundabout there’s Padang Rhu, while the to the north to Tanjung turn-off main road continues back to Kuah. Driving Rhu you’ll pass through a toward Tanjung with a medium-density jungle corridor of running to the east lapping at the shore river spot a tempting hills. It looks like more of it tough to drops make for a swim, but sheer the water. access Langkawi’s has one of wider and bet- which by magnificent limestone fronted beaches, ter stacks that bend the ocean into a pleasant bay. leopard-spotted and tiger-striped with black; with black; and tiger-striped leopard-spotted a black-sand beach, this isn’t technically added their colour have but mineral oxides Pasir Pantai to the coast. The beach, scheme wide and metres Hitam, of is only a couple you can’t a 5m drop, so at the foot of located along it. walk Kompleks Kraf Langkawi h tradi- demonstrations of you can watch where tional crafts and buy any traditional Malaysian are There product or craft you can imagine. exhibitions devoted to on-site also a couple of ceremonies. wedding and local legends a post- stands out like ment plant, which thumb amid apocalyptic smoke-belching need a break from traditional batik-work and batik-work traditional from need a break the like. The high falls are museum the resorts. and a huge of is just east the turn-off worth a look; the road. spanning archway concrete HITAM PASIR PANTAI along the north coast the you head east As thickly jungled hills landscape humps into coast into a clawed, jagged flattening before high tide seems where to sweep out the When you can seebeach. sand, it appears

, Ibrahim Langkawi displays props displays props 959 4669; adult/child Golf Club Datai Bay %

( Gunung Machinchang MachinchangGunung , which displays the ab- , which 959 2559; adult/child RM15/10; RM15/10; adult/child 959 2559; % Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau (

10am-6pm) . If you’re not a kid or sympa- . If you’re h Anna & The King Gallery 959 2700; www.dataigolf.com; 9/18 holes RM300/400) 959 2700; www.dataigolf.com; 9am-6pm) Further along where the road turns west the road Further along where You can get here by rented car, motorbike car, motorbike by rented here You can get On the way to Teluk Datai is On the way to Teluk The % Hussein Foundation Museum RM12/free; along the coast to Teluk Datai is the along the coast to Teluk thetic to reptiles you may enjoy the twice- thetic to reptiles but and hourly feedings, daily ‘stunt’ shows the small, dirty pools and the fact that many turned into meat are residents the farm’s of for many. is a turn-off the jungle and down to the sea. the jungle and down to headland where a short trail takes you through takes a short trail headland where exclusive resorts and the resorts exclusive ( TELUK DATAI DATAI TELUK Datai and jungle around Teluk The beaches some distance the main road around off are you’ll find Langkawi’s most the island. Here top of the falls. You can make a 2.5 kilometre a 2.5 kilometre the falls. You can make top of the cable car station; to this is from here hike sound shoes and a taxing that requires route physical fitness. a good level of here it’s a steady 10-minute climb through the 10-minute it’s a steady here (stay to the right) to the wells at the rainforest past Pantai Kok, then turn along with the road Kok, past Pantai the car park. From to the right until you reach or taxi; drive to the end of the road, about 1km the to the end of or taxi; drive of mountain rut between flow. The smooth of pools is slick enough to slide down, especially fun. great so is towards the bottom; doing of small pools connected by a thin trickle trickle by a thin small pools connected of lounge in some freshwater rock pools? Telaga pools? Telaga rock in some freshwater lounge a Tujuh (Seven top of at the Wells), located Kok, is a series inland from Pantai waterfall If you’ve been splashing around the ocean, If you’ve and to your life why not add some variety TELAGA TUJUH TELAGA TUJUH but the gallery was closedbut the gallery for maintenance visit. our during and costumes from the 1999 film of the same from the 1999 film of and costumes Kok, at Pantai partly shot was name, which (708m). There are some incredible views views some incredible are (708m). There the way. along take you on a vertiginous 20-minute trip to trip 20-minute on a vertiginous you take majestic the of the top lonelyplanet.com Crocodile Farm h stract and multimedia works of its founder stract and multimedia works of said to be among Malaysia’s top 10 courses. top 10 courses. said to be among Malaysia’s for guests are beaches beautiful The resorts’ to a only. The road continues past the resorts KEDAH & PERLIS Rhu, andis Rhu, known foritshotsprings.Apart island, notfarfromtheturn-off toTanjung not so spectacular. October. naturally,theyare Inthedryseason, andearly lateof September monsoon season: thefallsareatend cool, although bestseen theforest,up through are always refreshingly road. The swimming pools,10minutes’ walk waterfalls, whichthese are 3kmoff themain 15kmnorthofRoughly Kuahistheturn-off to DURIAN PERANGIN p215). box, the associated withanintriguinglegend (see thespringsare so manyplacesonLangkawi, ifanythingislinedup.Asoffice tosee with thetourist take placeoccasionally–contact not much ‘culturalshows’ todo,although cial channels andbuyingsouvenirs, there’s from watching thewater gushalongartifi- RM4/2; This AIR HANGAT VILLAGE will mountain be lowered. by thegovernment; thegate atthefootof the may the mountain occasionally berestricted (assuming there’steahouse nofog).Accessto to Thailandfromalookoutpointandsmall the topwithviewsacrossislandandover thejungle. drivethrough It’saspectacular to can bereached byasnaking,paved road ontheisland(881m) mountain The tallest GUNUNG RAYA dry in the sun. bilis before thebeach, thetinyfish knownas Along thecoastforacoupleof kilometres hired boat,isthe 220 Around thepromontory,accessibleby Rhu inaccessible tononguests,asare thebeautifulsandsat again popularwithfamilygroups,butmanyofthebestonesare andare insideluxuryresorts feel abittinglywhenyougofordip.Tothesouth, tivities athand,andthewater isgoodforswimming,butjellyfishare common,soyoumight tourists.everyone There toolderpackage from20-somethingbackpackers are ac- watersports of sandat manybeachesare amongthebestinMalaysia.Langkawi’s The busiestisthe2km-longstrip BEST BEACHES family-friendly/honeymooner atmosphere. The beachesat small, cleanshallowbeach,great forswimmingandsnorkelling. (anchovies) are spread outonmatsto village EA • PluLnkw KEDAH ••Pulau Langkawi h for perfect sunsets. forperfect The beachon 9am-6pm)

( Pantai Cenang % 959 1357;culture showsadult/child istowardsthenorthof the Gua Cerita (Cave of Legends). , whichhasthebiggestconcentrationofhotels, andispopularwith Pulau BerasBasah ikan inhabited by thousands inhabited by thousands of bats. is by agiantwhite crocodile. Northof thelake dren. Thelake inhabited isalsosupposedly pilgrimage wantingchil- destinationforthose from thislake; apopular sincethenit’sbeen years of trying,hadababygirlafter drinking by the resident catfish. edge of thejettyandhave nibbled your toes for aspinroundthelake, orjustsitonthe its goodforswimming.Youcanrent apedalo jungle,and anddense limestonecliffs craggy name. It’safreshwater lake surroundedby Maiden) is located ontheislandof thesame Tasik of DayangBunting(Lake thePregnant PULAU DAYANG BUNTING does does Kuah) Yacht.my; RoyalLangkawi Club,JlnPantai DatoSyedOmar, p188). also booktickets tothe parkfromPenang (see snorkelling/diving costRM240/300.Youcan tour operatorforPulauPayar. Tripsincluding .com; PointComplex,Kuah) Lot1-21Jetty ful viewsof tropical fish. have tosnorkel tobetreated tosomewonder- be murky.Butwhenit’sclearyoudon’t even the water conditionsbefore yougo,asitcan and horseshoe-bend of coast.Inquire about all theactioncentres onadivingplatform theinteriorprobably of won’tsee theisland– come to2km-longPulauPayar, you although dive and snorkeling expeditions.Mosttrips is thismarinepark,thefocusof Langkawi’s Strung outlike green jewelsintheteal several tours. island-hopping PULAU PAYAR MARINE PARK Gua Langsir The islandisbestvisited ononeof the achildless say Legends couple,after 19 Langkawi Coral Langkawi offers tripforRM240/340,as thesame Teluk Datai Pro Dive Pantai Tengah East Marine isoneofthebestforchildren. It’sa Pantai Kok

(Cave of the Banshee), which (Cave of is theBanshee), ( % on the north. Goto onthenorth. 955 3739;Pantai Cenang) ( (

% % isquieter, withamore onthewestcoastare 966 7318;www.langkawicoral 966 3966;www.eastmarine.com lonelyplanet.com isthemain Tanjung . The East . TheEast KEDAH & PERLIS 221 ) Right in April in April a Langkawi Arts and 966 1818; www.bayviewhotels (LIMA; www.limamaritime.com (LIMA; 966 8585; www.eaglebay.com.my; %

( Langkawi International Festival % ( have a thing for duty-free a thing for duty-free have (LACRAF) in December, the December, the in (LACRAF) A reliable choice. This is your This is your choice. A reliable ) Langkawi International Maritime and (LIFA). seriously around November, the around November, During school holidays and the peak tour- holidays and During school Eagle Bay Hotel City Bayview Hotel ble jungle villas to backpacker enclaves. As As enclaves. ble jungle villas to backpacker this is the best concen- the latter, regards accommodation on the budget tration of side on the opposite places are island. Many and don’t have the road from the beach of sea views. shopping. f RM135; s & d RM125, Putra; 33 Jln Persiaran comforts and the usual three-star provides deals. package various .com/langkawi; Mayah; 1 Jln Pandak r/ste from RM185/260; ais pool. rooftop including a gym, sauna and CENANG PANTAI CenangPantai encompasses all the variety Langkawiof accommodation, from verita- tional huts (with chandelier showerheads, silk showerheads, tional huts (with chandelier sheets and cable TV, to outdo strive natch) all to your other in the pampering stakes, each you’ll price range benefit. Further down the while chalets, and end up in decent hotels hos- of will find a decent variety backpackers 30% price are of and dorms. All categories tels than what you’ll find expensive to 50% more the mainland. on Pulau to February), ist season (November Langkawi can become crowded, though some- thing can usually still be found. At other times outstrips demand. supply far the year of KUAH to stay in Kuah unless no reason There’s you Festivals & Events Festivals Langkawi events includ- major hosts some the ing Aerospace exhibition .my) Crafts Festival Langkawi International Water Festival and the biennial Arts of Sleeping constantly im- options are Accommodation at the luxury end of especially here, proving tradi- villas and gussied-up Teak the scale. standard high-rise chain hotel decked out out standard decked high-rise hotel chain with stylish rooms and excellent facilities, opposite CHOGM Park, this book has a drab this book has a drab CHOGM Park, opposite that inside it’s a smart hotel but on the cover,

Langkawi Canopy Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau , which operates operates , which Crystal Yacht Holidays Crystal Yacht 955 4744; www.langkawi.travel/lca.htm) % (

955 6545; www.crystalyacht.com) During the monsoon season from July to Diving trips normally concentrate on Pulau Diving trips normally concentrate Fishing trips are also available, costing from also available, Fishing trips are More active trips are run by trips are active More There are several cruise operators in several cruise in are operators There Eagle-feeding tours (adult/child from from (adult/child Eagle-feeding tours The most popular day trip is the island- The most popular day % Payar Payar ). ( opposite boat trips. and unpredictable for many of the above the above of for many and unpredictable mid-September, the seas are often too rough mid-September, often the seas are around RM300 for four hours, though prices around RM300 for four hours, will depend on when, and for how long, you to go. want kayak trips (from RM250). The company also training camps. triathlon/ironman operates and include jungle trekking (RM120), abseil- and include jungle trekking (from RM210) and ing through the rainforest Adventures popular sunset dinner cruises (adult/child from RM220/100). ( significant research knowledge is gained from knowledge significant research sessions.feeding the tively small population are enormous. Finally, are small population tively eye candy for tourists, no while providing to the eagles (which congregate in large flocks in large congregate to the eagles (which the health risks to the rela- tours), for feeding lose their fear of human contact, making them lose of their fear If bad meat is thrown for hunters. easier prey becoming dependent on human handouts and Langkawi’s and sea kites famous brahminy for argument is a significant eagles, but there Eagles the birds. not feeding run the risk of eagles. Pulau Singa Besar might also be visited, mouse deer population of with its resident monkeys. crotchety and Beras Basah, sea stacks, and a cruise sea caves at the local for a look around mangroves (adult/child from RM60/40). The tour usu- from RM60/40). (adult/child in Pulau Dayang Bunting, Pulau ally takes hopping tour, offered by most companies by most companies hopping tour, offered visited visited etc. Note the following prices are especially especially following prices are the Note on whether depending subject to change sites of included, the number meals are Cenang and at most upmarket resorts that that Cenang resorts upmarket and at most ). p216 Agencies, (seetours organise Travel There are travel agents in Kuah, along Pantai in Kuah, along Pantai agents travel are There Marine and Pro Dive outfits both offer PADI- both offer outfits Pro Dive and Marine around RM1500. for certification Tours Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book Langkawi, including RM170/110) put customers up close with up close with RM170/110) put customers KEDAH & PERLIS friendly place withagreat variety of rooms baron-reservations.net; rRM120-230; baron-reservations.net; have viewsandabit sea more character. Thepricierones but cleanandcomfortable. Zon shoppingcomplex.Thechalets are small at thesouthernendof thebeach, nearthe RM95, ffromRM160; BeachResort Langkapuri Midrange (guess) palms,andthere’s free wi-fi. around agravel-strewn courtyardshaded by They’recottage bythesea. cleanandcentred rooms feel like theguestsuite inafamily of priceandmore sointerms of conditions– sointerms slightly is anupscaleguesthouse, ai access. beach lers foritscleanliness andextremely easy rooms thatgets goodreviews fromtravel- relatively basiccomplexof scrubbed-down floor oneshave views. sea but theactualroomsare quite nice,andtop- little more like aMalaysian apartmentblock, rooms (RM40)are abitcheaper. Itlooksa where InnisDaddy’sGuestHouse, with Sweet behind butalmostsharing grounds thesame temple of backpackingiseasyandbreezy. Just area where fellow meeting congregants atthe keep coolintheheatandafriendlycommon ted withumbrella-shaded roomsthat tables, actually:acuteSweet, yellowbuildingdot- folks. meeting looks like abarracks,butit’sgoodspot for ing, hangover andmore drinking.Thedorm cheap placetorest eating,drink- inbetween a needing perfectly optionforthose passable alittle waysbackfromthebeach, thisisa Set popularity –youmaywantto book early. milkshakes behind thebarandafairbitof folk inthecommonarea, very goodchocolate galows, chalets dreadlocked anddorms,lotsa joints. There are ajunglycollectionof bun- the vibeinthismostbackpacker of backpacker long are ( youstaying?’ originally?’‘Threegoing tostay days.’‘How here?’been ‘Howlongwere ‘Twoweeks.’ you hotmail.com; dmRM10,rRM25-70; Guesthouse Gecko Budget 222 Malibest Resort Malibest AB Motel Lodge Rainbow Palms GuestHouse Sweet Inn EA • PluLnkw KEDAH ••Pulau Langkawi ) RunbyafriendlyEnglish couple,this

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( % % 955 1300;rRM50-90; 955 8864;rRM50-70; ( a %

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from RM120/320; the rundown on Nadia’s is short and sweet: the rundownonNadia’sisshortandsweet: that soundsmore like thanahotel, aphrase not beloadsof character asit’sa here, seeing of There marbleinabathroom,right? may beachresort.com; r/stefromRM546/1268; beachresort.com; wos complaining? who’s price foranalmost-top-endexperience, but whenyou’re payingasolidlymidrange tower nearapool,somepalmsandtheocean, ais s&dfromRM145,tr185; .langkawiholidayresort.co; waaay too stuffy. You’ll wanttoavoid thefanrooms,which get own youmaywanttooptforanotheroption. large groupsof travellers, butifyou’re onyour cottages attached thatareessentially, goodfor a service. pleasant-as-you-please with spaciousdimensions,crispsheets and avoid) situated aroundafauxthatch admittedly, have horrendous – pinklighting of series rooms(someofit’s apleasant which, and enjoyuninterrupted views. sea top’ chalets woodenpylons thatsitatoptall lows totheundisputed kingof thecrop:‘tree- wooden chalets tomore modernbrickbunga- range olderbutstillcomfortable fromslightly These amongpalmtrees onthesand. set right regal andrustic allatonce,with itsorganic positioned tocatch thebreeze. It’ssomehow decked outwithdark wood(wonderful)and andapool,eacha coconutplantation one distinct Malayeight perch over stilt houses gentlemen, wepresent: theBonTon.These of bothworlds.Andwiththat,ladiesand best modernluxuries,resulting inthebest ditional aesthetics,butdeckitout withthe ofpresent thelodgingunderguise tra- trick of theposhSoutheastAsian resort isto villasRM590-1160; resort.com.my; gies totake youto your room. electricbug- imaginableluxury–even every of kids’activitiesandsports,restaurants and family-oriented resort withafullprogram chalets invast,landscapedgrounds.It’sa end of thebeach hastastefully furnished This ramblingresort towardsthenorthern BeachResort Pelangi Top End Langkawi BoutiqueResort Langkawi Grand BeachResort o Nadia’s Inn Comfort Langkawi Nadia’s InnComfort ) These woodenchalets These includewhatare, ) Bon Ton Resort Bon TonResort Hey classylike –nothingsays lots as Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( )

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ais A vast, modern A vast, modern ) 966 5566; www.rebakmarina 959 1061; www.mutiarahotels % % ( ( ais 955 1701; www.holidayvilla.com.my; 955 1701; www.holidayvilla.com.my; 959 2300; www.oriental-inn.com; r from % ( % ( To the southeast of the other re- To the southeast of Past the headland at the northwest- Past Located within the Oriental Village within the Oriental Village Located ) ) ) a Holiday Villa Sheraton Langkawi Beach Resort Mutiara Bay Burau Berjaya Langkawi Beach & Spa Resort Rebak MarinaResort Cenang, the small island of Pantai just off Rebak Besar resort, plays host to this exclusive in spacious and elegant chalets offers which beautifully landscaped grounds. It has all the 1888; www.berjayaresorts.com; r/ste from RM550/1000; ais Berjaya the oversized the beach, ern end of northwest coast seems up the entire to take some 500 rooms spread the island. There’s of between ferried guests are a vast area; over in minibuses. The and their chalets reception while the most attractive, are suites waterfront lush rainforest. look out onto the others r/ste from RM690/1355; www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton; ais Langkawisorts, the Sheraton has all the usual secluded amenities in an attractively five-star headland by the sea. It’s setting on a forested young families. popular with REBAK BESAR PULAU Geopark Hotel RM184; Kok, from Pantai shopping compound inland neatly furnished has large, this modern hotel as mini- such rooms with the usual mod-cons TVs. and satellite bars bit overpriced It’s a the sea. considering the distance from RM480/500; .com/mutiara_buraubay; s/d from and rainforest swathes of huge are There at Mutiara Bay, plus some to explore beach out, cool and comfortable caba- 150 decked nas to stay in. It’s a beautiful spot (all 19 and between your beach the resort), of acres hut and the ocean you may run into some resident monkeys. energy-efficient light bulbs are in every room; energy-efficient light are bulbs the set- provide sustainable building materials the easily are rooms themselves ting. And the big beds, the best high-end chains: of match big views. and big spoiling r/ste from RM240/810; courts, a gym, several tennis complex, with ‘exclusively and an indoor pool restaurants airy and brightly fur- for ladies’. Rooms are the the lawns and nished, and look out over beach. white-sand soft KOK PANTAI .com; s & d from RM385, f from RM650; A ) a The best ) All sorts of All sorts of ) ) Directly op- Directly This is a more This is a more ) Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau This extension This extension ) ai 955 1751; www.sunset a -style stilt houses, houses, -style stilt % ( ais ais

955 4075; from r RM90; (www.zackryguesthouse.langkawi ais 955 1688; www.templetree.com.my; 955 1688; www.templetree.com.my; 955 2388; www.casadelmar-langkawi % 955 2020; www.frangipanilangkawi (

kampung % % ( ( %

( Tropical Resort Temple Tree Tree Temple Frangipani Sunset Beach Resort Zackry Guest House Casa del Mar is. Treatment plants recycle resort water; water; resort plants recycle is. Treatment by claiming to prioritise but the eco issues, its mouth Frangipani put its money where .com; r/ste from RM430/900; businesses in Langkawi seek your custom chalets surrounded by lush tropical gardens; it surrounded by lush chalets vibe going has that whole village-cum-resort no sea although views, on. There’s the beach is close. beachresort.com.my; r RM160-260; with comfortablyfurnished resort, upmarket conditions a little cramped. conditions a just a few minutes’ walk from the seashore. It’s walk from the seashore. minutes’ just a few best for singles; families may find the probably trees in this quiet spot at the back of the beach, the beach, in this quiet spot at the back of trees are no phone bookings. no are area, Irish owner Neve and her Malaysian Irish owner Neve and her Malaysian area, friendly boyfriend Chaz and several large, clean and cosy, and there dogs. Rooms are friendly, sprawling guesthouse, by inhabited it up in the common boozing happy travellers networks.com; dm/s/d RM20/30/40; networks.com; is this in Tengah accommodation budget young families. PANTAI TENGAH TENGAH PANTAI Pantai dominate resorts Larger, midrange though it’s still less built up Tengah, Cenang, and is popular with than Pantai of beach. Several package deals are avail- Several beach. deals are package of according able, and prices vary dramatically to occupancy. .com; r/ste from RM740/1170; is a sumptuous, this the Lamanposite Padi, stretch on a lovely Spanish villa–style place as the properties at Bon Ton, so it all just Ton, so it all just as the properties at Bon in a to be pampered depends: do you want colonial villa? or a village Malaysian with Chinese, Penang, colonial-style and other colonial-style with Chinese, Penang, as incredible digs are The themed residences. from Malay from Malay as a whole, Malaysia references Tree Temple las that expands on the historical-structure on the historical-structure las that expands Bon Ton draws inspiration theme; whereas villa from RM690-1090; villa from RM690-1090; vil- is a collection of the Bon Ton (above) of accents and traditional craftwork, and very and very craftwork, and traditional accents beautiful overall. Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book huddle of modern chalets is set is among palm modern chalets huddle of KEDAH & PERLIS secluded covesecluded onthenorthcoastisaglor- 11pm) .com; JlnPantai DatoSyedOmar; mainsfromRM20; chains. Western eral cheap eateries Chinese andoutposts of options in Kuahtownconsistof sev- Eating KUAH Eating look onto the gardens. views, whileroomsinthetwo-storey pavilions andgorgeous sea ble bathrooms,plasmaTVs The villascomewithlarge, openlounges, mar- would expectfromthisinternational chain. all theindulgent comfortsandmod-consyou amalgamation of ‘pavilions’ andvillas with isatrulyluxurious theFourSeasons Sea, a superblocationoverlooking theAndaman rfromRM1850; .com/langkawi; beach. Rhu ofwithin walkingdistance gorgeous Tanung in with,ratherthandominate thejungle)is istryingtoblend theestablishment the sense central courtyard.Thisserene resort (onegets traditional buildingsarranged arounda ious goldenbeach andacloudof semi- .com.my; rfromRM1400; Tanjung Resort Rhu TANJUNG RHU jungle-trekking guideon its staff. gyms, yoga,theworks)andaknowledgeable It hasasmallcity’sworthof amenities(spas, chalets, manybuiltonstiltsover thewater. rainforest between villasandroomyseafront exclusive beach resort, where youcanchoose r/ste fromRM1530/2550; babysitting service for families. own private beach. Ithasakids’cluband retreat withagym,spa,tennis courtsandits building withintherainforest isthisluxurious inagrandwoodenMalay-style Bay Club Datai .com; r/stefromRM990/1500; Andaman Langkawi TELUK DATAI standard yachting marina. deals available, aswellaninternational- price, andthere are different several package airportare includedinthe from Langkawi a spa,tennis courtsandrestaurants. Transfers facilities youwouldexpect,includingagym, 224 Charlie’s Place Resort Four Seasons Datai Langkawi EA • PluLnkw KEDAH ••Pulau Langkawi About 500muphill fromthejetty isthe ( %

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( ais 966 4078;www.langkawiyachtclub ( % ais % ( 959 2500;www.ghmhotels.com; % ais 959 1088;www.theandaman 959 1033;www.tanjungrhu ais 950 8888;www.fourseasons The island’smost ) ) Tucked intoa Just pastGolf ) Occupying ) h 9am- midrange places serving Western standards midrange placesserving ontheisland.Ofall best pizzaandpasta and runbyexpatswhocrankoutsomeof the 10.30pm) tions are particularlyintriguing–such as coconut-crusted calamari.Themenudescrip- and(a localfish)withbanana,tofu satay regional cuisinesuch aspan-fried bamakoise from RM18; bet. best strip, thisisprobably your on theCenang 3pm &6-11pmSat-Thu) all hours –take note, nighthawks. curry-riceIndian/Malaystandard menu at excellentrotisanda beach. Thisoneserves There are somegreat alongCenang tomatoes restaurants. Many of thehotels have atPantai Cenang PANTAI CENANG isactuallybetter than reserve, the food. amangrove walkwaythrough raised forest attheendof Thesetting, a tions advisable). rant withlive (reserva- jazzonsomenights north of Kuah,isthisupmarket Thairestau- h menu of thebreezily aristocratic Charlie’s. white-gloved ambienceandWestern-Asian fo travellers. from but have heard plentyof glowingreviews innearbyTempleStraits ClubHouse Tree, the also-fusion-focused restaurant inthe issuperb. Wedidn’tmakethe setting itto junglegrounds, amidBonTon’sstarry night, of cuisine,andatsampler StraitsChinese pistachio-encrusted haloumitoanine-course executed menuof fusiongoodness,from At BonTonResort,Namboasts awell- fish cooked Nonya style. recommendThailand toChina;wehighly the across Asia, loopingfromMalaysia through open-air courtyard.Thecuisineranges from your napkininlap)amidabeautiful evening. tropical provides towhileawaya aromanticsetting surrounded withplantsandnative carvings and incense open-air gardenfilledwithsweet that makes youkinky’–andthetranquil, the Thaigreen curry‘withanexotictaste o Tomato Red Tomato Barn Thai Nam Putumayo lunch &dinner) ( Excellent service (thewaiter folds service Excellent % h

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( ( % % 955 5853;mainsfromRM4; On theisland’seastcoast,9km 966 6699; Mukim Kisap; mainsfromRM20; Kisap; 966 6699;Mukim Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 953 2233;mainsRM30-40; 955 9118;mainsfromRM18; The second tomatoisredThe second Serves upimaginative Serves

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955 6322) % ( Little Lylia’s Chill Out Bar %

( Firefly , a beachside affair, less is actually , a beachside Sunba Retro Bar Ekspres Bahagia and As the evening wears on lots of folks end folks of on lots evening the wears As Langkawi Services Ferry If you’d prefer to sip a cocktail in more cocktail to sip a in more If you’d prefer a tease from him, is one of the best barmen the best barmen a tease is one of from him, the island. on a well- there’s where’s Tengah, up in Pantai trodden nightspot path. Getting Around Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT from the airport include destinations Taxi Cenang (RM24), Pantai Kuah jetty or Pantai Rhu (RM35) and Kok (RM28), Tanjung Datai at the (RM45). Buy a coupon Teluk mainland port of Kuala Perlis (RM18, one (RM18, one Kuala Perlis mainland port of to and from Kuala hour) and every 30 minutes hours). (RM23, 1½ Kedah and between Kuah and Georgetown daily ferries on 2½ hours) (RM60/115 one way/return, at Boats depart from Georgetown Penang. Kuah at 2.30pm 8.30am and 8.45am and leave and 5.30pm. to Thailand Ferry runs four From the Kuah jetty, LFS makes times a day, between 9.30am and 4pm, to Satun on the Thai coast (RM30, one hour). a taxiFrom the port you can take to Satun or Phuket. Yai town for connections to Hat Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Malaysia Airlines 9333) flights between daily or three Langkawi and going for as low KL, with promotional fares fly to Airlines and Firefly as RM35. Malaysia Airways and Silk (RM85) and Tiger Penang (RM103). Singapore Air fly to BOAT Langkawi to/from All passenger ferries oper- 8am to 6.30pm, Kuah. From about out of ate roughly every operate hour ferries regular between Kuah and the in either direction reggae-oriented than the Bob Marley Bar, the Bob Marley than reggae-oriented while to still ready about 3am. If you’re club open till that, party after that stays spot open a laid-back name suggests, sunrise? Damn. God, is that the till – oh at any surrounds, try the bars sophisticated resorts. the island’s upmarket of 2am Sat-Thu)

3- 1812 h , which , which Krathong Zabinsa’s USSR lunch & dinner Wed- (night market) (night market) , featuring some some , featuring Bob Marley Bar h Further on, towards 012-473 7167; mains from RM4; 012-473 7167; mains house Inside, on steroids. % (

012-470 7863; Jln Teluk Baru; mains Baru; mains 012-470 7863; Jln Teluk Langkawi KEDAH •• Pulau noon-midnight) 012-432 7408; Perdana Quay; mains from 012-432 7408; Perdana 017-480 9722; mains from RM18; 017-480 9722; mains from RM18; pasar malam pasar % (

4pm-midnight) h kampung % ( % At the northern end of the strip is a end of At the northern

( h Supposedly the country’s largest restau- Supposedly largest the country’s , a quiet Thai restaurant offering tradi- offering , a quiet Thai restaurant 959 2336; mains from RM8; 5pm-late) , run by a slightly mad if friendly northern A good place to start is On the seafront, Telaga Harbour Park is Park Harbour On the seafront, Telaga Kantan Fat Mum’s Fat There’s a There’s % Englishman who, should you be able to take to take Englishman who, should you be able Bar one, a fairly predictable soundtrack and very soundtrack and very one, a fairly predictable If you head south along good all-round vibe. CenangPantai past Zon, you’ll hit the tends to open around lunchtime. There are are There to open around lunchtime. tends dreaded the great of mats, posters beach how staff and how many customers feeling are are around. bars open around 5pm and close open around 5pm bars between depending on later, much 11pm or much, and hotels for half the price on the mainland, and hotels as well. Most here bars a good strip of there’s ably the best spot for a booze in Malaysia. in Malaysia. best spot for a booze ably the at many restaurants alcohol While you can get As Langkawi is a duty-free island, it’s argu- island, it’s Langkawi is a duty-free As Restaurant Russian specialities. vaguely Drinking around RM12; home to a few trendy restaurants, including restaurants, trendy home to a few themed the oddly Marxist-chic Mon) fish dishes. tional curries and ( PANTAI KOK KOK PANTAI complex has The Oriental shopping Village including restaurants, a handful of much toned down for foreigners. toned down much ditional Malay food like rendang, fish cooked fish cooked rendang, food like ditional Malay the spice is very but in coconut milk and such, rant built in traditional Malay style, Kantan style, Kantan Malay rant built in traditional a looks like tra- of the menu focuses on upscale executions 11pm) from RM8; Mum’s servesHoliday Villa, Fat up Chinese pretty and can get cheerful dishes. It’s cheap, the evening. come boisterous and Pakistani food. Pakistani and h court servingbustling food Malay good-value PANTAI TENGAH TENGAH PANTAI Boom Boom Corner north of Pantai Cenang Pantai a once or twice held of north Malay authentic week; a good place to get it’s cheap. the food on lonelyplanet.com KEDAH & PERLIS a privatetaurants, car-parking facilitiesand roughly 2kmtothe bordercrossing. Taxisroughly Malaysian customspost.From here it’s runtothe fromAlorSetar andtaxis Buses the morning, linescanbehorrendous). Hat Yai whenthe borderopensin (though busallthewayto der istotake athrough h quicker andmore convenient alternative. isalmostalwaysa the trainviaPadang Besar of thebordercanbecomejammed.Taking way soimmigrationprocessingonbothsides toHatand allbuses Yai, Thailand,comethis thetwocountries, ity ofbetween roadtraffic Setar. handlesthevastmajor- TheLebuhraya Malaysia andThailand,48kmnorthof Alor This isthemainbordercrossingbetween % BUKIT KAYUHITAM cost you RM26. Pantaiand tween Cenang Kok will Tengah andRM28toPantai be- Kok.Ataxi Kuah town,RM24toPantai Cenang/Pantai fares set Kuah jetty,sample includeRM5 to mall andatthejetty( FairThere attheLangkawi station isa taxi worth yourtimetorent yourownvehicle. but fares are relatively anditmaybe high aretaxis themainwayof getting around, As there isnopublictransportavailable, TAXI day. per few placesalsorent bikes mountain forRM15 can behired allover atstands theisland.A it’s very andeasyriding.Motorbikes pleasant day. Theroadsare excellent,andoutsideKuah do aleisurely circuitof theisland(70km) ina motorbike foraroundRM35perday.Youcan The easiestwaytoget aroundistohire a MOTORCYCLE &BICYCLE the upmarket beach resorts. Jeeps canalsoberented more expensively at per day,butdropswithbargaining. and Cars ataroundRM60 start you uponarrival.Rates the travel agencies attheKuahjettywillassail canberentedCars cheaply, andtoutsfrom CAR ittopay use the driver. desk before leaving theairportterminal and 226 Tourism Malaysia Office Malaysia Tourism At theborderpostthere are afew res- 9am-5pm) 04 ELS • itr PERLIS ••History . Theeasiestwaytocrossthebor- %

965 2242).Fromthe ( % 922 2078,7312322; Resident was installed atArau. A formalResident wasinstalled Treaty,1909 Anglo-Siamese andaBritish from theThais to theBritishunder but attheriskof stereotyping, asinmany ticularly heavy onsites of interest totourists, the Thaiborder. Thisisn’tanarea that’spar- arice-producingpocketit asessentially along (via KualaPerlis). Even Malays tend toregard cept asatransitpointtoThailandorLangkawi tend toregister onmosttravellers’ radarex- Perlis isMalaysia’s anddoesn’t smalleststate PERLIS Perlis. Kuala another toKangar andthenanotherto ficult toreach –first take abustoChanglun, ismoredeparture dif- pointforLangkawi, across thepeninsula. KualaPerlis, theother Butterworth, KLanddestinations Langkawi), which frequent gotoKualaKedah buses (for from and regular (RM5)toAlorSetar, buses to your next destination. (and headaches) byproceeding immediately you’llendupsaving money ing outforataxi, Malaysian side. Even of withtheexpense shell- entry’ whenyou leave Malaysia. youmaybefinedfor‘illegal police –otherwise bytheMalaysianpassport isstamped border there are onto buses Hat Yai. on theothersideruntoSadao,fromwhich rate vassal principality withits rate vassal own raja. butmadePerlis thesultan, stalled intoasepa- rein- terms.he agreed TheSiamese toSiamese attempts toregain histerritory until,in1842, of1821, thesultan Kedah madeunsuccessful conqueredeignty. After theSiamese Kedah in variously fell sover- underThaiand Acehnese Perlis wasoriginallypartof Kedah, it though History Kedah. neighbouring business hoursPerlis as thesame observes apredominantly Muslimstate,ing. Being Negara Perlis state parkisworthexplor- ken). smallbutbeautifulTaman Otherwise, English definitely(because isn’twidelyspo- the localsandimprove Malaysia yourBahasa friendly. Itcanbeakickjusttohangoutwith rural backwaters thepopulationhere isquite Once inMalaysia, (RM35) you’llfindtaxis There is no accommodationonthe If arrivingfromThailand,ensure thatyour As withKedah, power wastransferred lonelyplanet.com KEDAH & PERLIS 227 985 4122; Jln Kuala Perlis; s & d from RM50; 985 4122; Jln Kuala Perlis; % (

Probably the best place in town, with neat, 04 04 ) Near the jetty are several Malay food stalls several Malay Near the jetty are Ferries to Kuah, on Pulau Langkawi, leave at to Kuah, on Pulau Langkawi, leave Ferries If you’re impatient to get to Langkawi, impatient to get If you’re a popular destination for Malaysians because a popular destination for Malaysians in the neutral terri- markets the duty-free of tory between the two countries. Near the large banks that will change a few roundabout are will give Moneychangers cheques. travellers (foreign for bank notes rates you even better Getting There & Away Getting There & Away The bus and taxi station walk from is a short bus 56 the jetty towards town. The frequent (RM1.20) swings by the jetty before to Kangar di- at the station.terminating Less-frequent buses Alor Setar, depart for Butterworth, rect From the bus station Besar. KL and Padang (RM12) and or the jetty, taxis go to Kangar Besar (RM25). Padang 6pm (RM15). least hourly between 8am and PADANG BESAR % Kangar, of Thai border 35km northeast On the itself it’s is nothing special, but BesarPadang a taxi to Kuala Perlis from the bus station from the a taxi to Kuala Perlis costs RM18. KUALA PERLIS % northwest extreme This small port town in the mainly as a depar- visited peninsula is the of point for Langkawi.ture the closest It is also from Thailand. access port to the island Sleeping & Eating HotelPens a comfortable are rooms. Along the same street hostels. dirt-cheap grotty, a few serving famous special laksa, as Kuala Perlis’ restaurants. Chinese well as a few Getting There & Away Away There & Getting station south- is on the The express-bus There town, offJubli Perak. Jln of ern edge daily), to KL (RM33, two departures are Setar one daily), Alor (RM7.60, Butterworth (RM3.80, several (RM19.70, two daily), Ipoh one daily) and (RM29.50, daily), Kota Bharu daily, (RM58, one Bahru/Singapore buses to Kuala well as regular as 12 hours), buses to Kaki Infrequent (RM1.20). Perlis BesarBukit (RM3.20) and Padang (RM3.20) local bus station on Jln from the chaotic leave Razak. Abdul Tun (Jln Jubli 977 0027; admis- Muzium Negeri Embassy , attached to the PERLIS •• Kangar % 9am-4pm Sun-Thu, 9am- 9am-4pm Sun-Thu, (

This huge, blocky blocky This huge, h ) 977 1366; Kompleks Warisan 976 1184; 79 Jln Kangar; s/d % houses more displays on houses more % 976 7755; 135 Psn Jubli Emas; r/ste 976 7755; 135 Psn ( (Jln Jubli Perak)

% ais ( This old Chinese in the town hotel ) 10am-5pm) Muzium Kota Kayang a , with dry exhibitions on the history of the history of , with dry exhibitions on h (National Museum;

, a food court a few doors along, serving doors , a food court a few 04

There are many cheap restaurants and cafes and cafes restaurants many cheap are There Putra Palace Around 7km southwest of Kangar, the the Kangar, Around 7km southwest of Kedai Kopi Malaysia the same name, and of hotel sprinkled around the bus station, including to a high standard and have the usual mod- to a high standard and have and restaurant an excellent cons, and there’s a gym. edifice around 1km east of the town centre the town centre edifice around 1km east of furnished Rooms are top hotel. is Kangar’s from RM158/308; centre has basic singles with fan and shared has basic singles with fan and shared centre doubles with private bathrooms and air-con option for budget facilities. It’s a reasonable stay. overnight an Hotel Ban Cheong RM35/60; tans of Kedah. You’ll need to catch a taxi You’ll need from to catch Kedah. tans of (RM15). here to get Kangar Sleeping & Eating modest mausoleums of two 16th-century sul- modest mausoleums of modern modern noon Sat) royal family. and the the state Negeri, free; Jln Kolam; admission Sights Sights sole attraction is the Kangar’s

the state capital of Perlis. As with the state with the state As Perlis. capitalthe state of a lot not a heck of there’s it’s the capital of, all of chat, pray or besides relax, to do here fine options for those awaiting an are which onwards bus. KANGAR KANGAR % Alor Setar, 45km northwest of is Kangar, Perlis the Malayan Union, and then the Federation the Federation Union, and then the Malayan in 1957. Malaya of cupation in WWII, Perlis was ‘returned’ to was ‘returned’ WWII, Perlis cupation in re- the war it again then after Thailand, and of rule until it became part turned to British treaty between Britain and Perlis wasn’t wasn’t between Britainand Perlis treaty oc- Japanese During the until 1930. signed Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book standard Chinese fare and beer. They’re both They’re and beer. standard Chinese fare dinner. and lunch open for breakfast, local history, including Neolithic tools, royal the are and ceramics. Also at the site regalia sion free; sion free; Perak) KEDAH & PERLIS park isRM2perday.Guides(RM30 forfour All visitors mustregister here, andentrytothe posted 3kmfromthesmalltownof Kaki Bukit. Bukit; .my; JlnKaki The Information Wang Mu Forest Reserves. hills inMalaysia –andtheMata Ayerand the longest continuousrange of limestone – theNakawanRange hectares. Itcomprises along theThaiborder , covering about5000 in thenorthwestof thestate runsfor36km parkofThe smallstate Taman NegaraPerlis TAMAN NEGARAPERLIS and Malaysian) before reboarding. clear customsandimmigration(bothThai minutes). to All passengers mustdisembark andHat Padangtween Besar Yai (RM9,50 possible. is for about RM5each bargaining way,though shuttle pedestriantravellers backandforth Malaysian sidesof theborder. Motorcyclists 2km of theThaiand no-man’slandbetween (RM20). Kangar nations, includingKaki Bukit(RM15)and the busstop,andfares are posted fordesti- isontheleftbefore stand The taxi youreach (RM4) and,lessfrequently, toKaki Bukit. side. There are regular to/fromKangar buses border-crossing complexontheMalaysian about aroundakilometre fromthelarge beyond. or budget hotels forKangar andheadingstraight you’re better mostlydingy avoiding off these Malaysian andThaisidesof theborder,but entry’ whenyou leave Malaysia. youmaybefinedfor‘illegal police –otherwise bytheMalaysianpassport isstamped border open day. every of beingopenlonger hours thanbanks,and or Thaibaht)andhave theaddedadvantage 228 There isonedailytrainconnectionbe- Very few people,ifany,walkthemore than Malaysian stopnearthelarge buses round- There’s some accommodationonthe If arrivingfromThailand,ensure thatyour Park Visitor Centre Park Visitor ELS • aa eaaPri PERLIS ••Taman NegaraPerlis h 9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) 9am-noon &2-4pmMon-Fri)

( % 945 7898;[email protected] is sign- Darkness; admissionRM1; market isopen day. every in themarket area. TheMalaysian sideof the providedand nopassportisneeded, youstay and clothesfrombothcountriesare forsale, Malaysia-Thailand border. Fruit,vegetables is a1kmwalkfrom Kaki Bukit. of phosphatesflammable). Thecave ishighly watch outfor explodingguano(thebuild-up and motorcycles thatmayberushing through, walk fromthefarendof thecavern. Listen for landscaped park.Theoldtinmineisashort a cascadeatpopularswimmingspotand river thecave runsthrough andemerges in toptouristattraction.A today it’sthestate’s long cavern gouged outintin-miningdays; rich arrayof birdscanalsobe found here. macaque. tailed White-handed gibbonsanda inMalaysiais theonlyhabitat forthestump- deciduous forest, andisrich inwildlife; this tions. Theparkisthecountry’sonlysemi- Burma and numerouscave systems, such as Taman NegaraPerlis hasheavily forested slopes Sights &Activities obligatory for many areas. hours) canalsobehired atthecentre, andare t negotiate. to RM20toRM30,but youmaybeable roughly fromKakia taxi Bukittotheparkwillcost to findinKaki Bukit.Ifyoucanfindone, around RM50toRM60.Taxis maybeharder visitor centre issignposted 3km further on. village of Kampung WangKelian. Thepark roadleadstothetiny a windingmountain The nearest townisKaki Bukit, fromwhich There isno publictransporttothepark. Getting There&Away fortable. Youcan pitch a tent for RM1. centre The modernwoodenchalets inthe Sleeping Just outsidethepark, The A taxi totheparkfromKangarA taxi willcost , which hasintriguinglimestoneforma- (dm RM10,chaletsRM50-80; SundayMarket Wang Kelian Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels h 9am-6pm) Gua Kelam a are very com- ) isa370m- straddlesthe park visitor Gua Wang Gua Wang

(Cave of © Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com

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