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Men and Sneakers: the Importance of Sneakers to the Male

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Men and Sneakers: the Importance of Sneakers to the Male MEN AND SNEAKERS: THE IMPORTANCE OF SNEAKERS TO THE MALE SNEAKER ENTHUSIAST THROUGH FUNCTION, FASHION AND PERSONAL VALUE. _______________________________________ A Project presented to the Faculty of the Graduate School at the UniversIty of MIssouri-Columbia _______________________________________________________ In PartIal Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Master of Arts _____________________________________________________ by Jordan Noble Dr. Monique L. R. LuisI - Project Supervisor Professor Amy SImons July 2019 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would lIke to extend innumerable and immeasurable thanks to Dr. Monique LuisI, wIthout whom I would not have a master’s degree. She worked tIrelessly to ensure I was prepared in every aspect to complete this project, as well as graduate, even when tImes were incredibly tough. She is always supportIve and someone I could contInually count on throughout my tIme at the UniversIty of MIssouri. Second, I would lIke to thank Amy SImons, who was kind enough to take on this project at the last moment and encourage me across the finish lIne wIth immense help in my interviews. FInally, I would lIke to thank Kathy Adams for too often allowIng me into her office wIthout an appointment ready to answer any questIon I could possIbly have. Behind the scenes she did countless things to bring this project to lIfe and ensure I was on the right track throughout my tIme at MIzzou. 2 DEDICATION I would lIke to thank my mom and dad for always providing me wIth countless opportunitIes to better myself and for pushing me to be the best student and person I can be. I love you both, and deeply apprecIate everything you have done for me. 3 TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ................................................................................................ II DEDICATION (OPTIONAL) ............................................................................................ III LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................ iv Chapter 1: IntroductIon …………………………………………………………………...5 Chapter 2: LIterature review..……………………………………………………………..7 Chapter 3: ProfessIonal analysIs…………………………………………………………30 References………………………………………………………………………………..55 Appendix…………………………………………………………………………………58 4 CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION Basketball and sneakers have always been two worlds closely intertwIned, constantly influencIng one another. Basketball, more than any other sport has dictated sInce the 1950s what the youth have worn on theIr feet (Cunningham, 2008; NIchols, 2011). The eXplanatIon could be as sImple as one cannot wear football or baseball cleats In the street, while basketball shoes can be worn anywhere (O’Connor, 2014). However, I feel as though it may go deeper. A subculture has grown and developed in recent years around those who collect, wear and care about sneakers (Rakestraw, 2017a). The targeted demographic and sneakerhead lIfestyle is growIng. WIth it, so is the coverage of the expansIve sneaker industry. Sneaker culture, a cultural lIfestyle driven by one’s love of sneakers and the contInued desIre to purchase new paIrs and learn about theIr history, has changed drastIcally sInce its rise from sub-culture to a popular culture phenomenon -wIth the most growth occurring in the last decade along wIth the advent of socIal media. (Rakestraw, 2017a; O’Connor, 2018). SInce the meteoric rise of the Internet, the sneaker fanatIc lIfestyle has changed in many ways. Gone are the days when It was necessary to waIt in lIne for hours to buy a must-have shoe before it sells out (Welty, 2016). Rather than waItIng in the cold in New York City overnight, sneakerheads waIt patIently in the comfort of theIr homes untIl the second the clock hits 10:00 AM, hoping they pushed the “Buy” button fast enough to purchase the shoe before it sells out. WIth the majority of sneaker purchasIng moving from brick and mortar locatIons to onlIne stores, along wIth it moved the sneaker culture. StIll, throughout the evolutIon of sneaker culture, one thing that has remaIns constant: the importance of basketball sneakers. 5 ProfessIonal basketball players are the first lIne of influencers in dictatIng what basketball shoes are popular (O’Connor, 2018). After all, they are the athletes wearing the shoes on the hardwood for the consumers across the world to be exposed. ElIte, professIonal basketball players in the NatIonal Basketball AssocIatIon (NBA) are often offered deals wIth big name companies such as Nike, Adidas, or Under Armour. Through these lucratIve deals, players work alongsIde the brands to desIgn sneakers that are functIonal on the court and stylIsh in the streets (Sykes, 2017). Through conversatIons wIth athletes in The Basketball League, as well as collectors across the country, I probed deeper into the importance of sneakers at a functIonal, fashionable, and personal level. I set out to learn what sneakers they wear, and why they wear the sneakers that they do. I wanted to know how they arrived at those decIsIons. As a collector of sneakers myself, I know that people have personal connectIons wIth certaIn shoes, and am immersed in this culture. It is a connectIon lInked to a memory, or a person, or a tIme in theIr lIves. This connectIon is part of a culture, and a billIon-dollar industry, (Wolff and Rega, 2016) and thus, these stories are important to tell. To tell these stories, I spent four months interviewIng players in The Basketball League in additIon to my own friends and acquaIntances immersed in sneaker culture to learn what theIr sneakers mean to them and theIr process of assIgning value to basketball shoes – or sneakers. 6 CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW History Sneaker culture is comprised of collectors and fanatIcs who together create a community that revolves around the purchasIng, fantasIzIng over and love of sneakers and the sneaker industry (Rakestraw, 2017a; Cunningham, 2008; O’Connor 2014). Those who are a part of sneaker culture, especIally the collectIng aspect, are often referred to as sneakerheads (Proulx, 2018). Sneaker culture has been a subculture in the United States sInce the 1930s (Cunningham, 2008). When sneakers began to be mass-produced, followIng the industrial revolutIon, sneaker productIon was cheap and the style gaIned popularity (Cunningham 2008). The first sneaker to take on a lIfe of its own was the Converse All-Star. A sneaker stIll popular in the 2010s sellIng nearly 100 mIllIon paIrs a year (Sommer, 2015); the All-Star was the first sneaker endorsed by an athlete (O’Connor, 2014). Chuck Taylor, the eponymous brand style, was the professIonal basketball player who first endorsed the Converse sneaker in 1921 The followIng year, the United States’ Olympic basketball team wore the sneaker, making the shoe synonymous wIth basketball forever (O’Connor, 2014; Cunningham, 2008). After World War II, Converse began to mass-produce the All-Star in multIple colors for wear by nearly every basketball team from high school to the professIonal level in the United States (Cunningham, 2008). However, it was not untIl the 1950’s that the basketball sneaker made its way from the hardwood to the streets (Cunningham, 2008). Off the court, Hollywood actors pushed the popularizatIon of the Converse All-Star when James Dean was photographed wearing a paIr of white Converse, blue jeans, and a white t-shirt. Dean’s style became a symbol of rebellIon and youth for teenagers for over a decade 7 (Cunningham, 2008). This was the first tIme that a sneaker itself defined a generatIon and became part of a culture, but it was far from the last (Cunningham, 2008; NIchols, 2011). While athletes often endorse sneakers (WIlson & Sparks, 1996), they are not the only ones who can popularize a shoe. FollowIng the culture influence of the Converse All-Star was the success of a black and white; three stripe Adidas sneakers, now known as Superstars (NIchols, 2011). RUN DMC, a hip-hop group that emerged in the 1970s released a song tItled “My Adidas” (RUN DMC, 1986, track 3), in reference to the white and black striped shoes the group often wore. The song’s success made the sneakers so popular that Adidas agreed to sponsor the group. As a result, the followIng year Adidas’s saw a $35 mIllIon increase in U.S. profits (Heard, 2003). Adidas quickly realIzed that sneakers were synonymous wIth hip-hop. The two cultures were, and are stIll so Interwoven that it is hard to separate between the two. HIp-hop artIsts often determIne what is cool in footwear, suggestIng brands to youth through theIr musIc. Examples Include entIre songs dedicated to sneakers and fashion such as “AIr Force Ones” (Nelly, 2002, track 7) or “Fashion KIlla” (A$AP Rocky, 2013, track 10). Other songs include quotes about coveted sneakers including Kanye West’s “All Falls Down”; “Cause that’s enough money to buy her a few paIrs of new aIrs cause her baby daddy don’t really care” (West, 2004, track 4). Adidas is crucIal in sneaker history not only because of the merger of hip-hop and shoes, which they contInue to do today through Kanye West, but also because of the influence theIr formula had on all well-known sneaker companies. These companies realIzed that they needed to begin to target the youth – a tactIc stIll used in modern busIness (WIlson & Sparks, 1996; Roberts, 2015). Among other factors, the exploitatIon by sneaker companies of lImIted releases 8 has expedited the growth of followers of the sneaker culture (Welty, 2016). The IntroductIon of lImIted editIon sneakers, or sneakers that are not mass-produced, was a crucIal turning point for the industry and the sneaker culture as certaIn sneakers became rare and necessary for collectors to have (Rakestraw 2017a). While this concept was profitable for the sneaker companies and helped shape the progressIon of sneaker culture, It is also responsIble for the aforementIoned violence that is unfortunately stIll visIble in sneaker culture (Cunningham, 2008; Heard, 2003; Welty, 2016). Due to the lImIted nature of popular releases, many sneakerheads cannot get theIr hands on paIrs that they want for theIr collectIon, something I have experienced personally on multIple occasIons.
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