Helping Seafarers on the Most Treacherous of Our Coastlines
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8 ISLE OF MAN EXAMINER www.iomtoday.co.im Tuesday, May 23, 2017 BUILDINGS AT RISK Helping seafarers on the most treacherous of our coastlines Navigation charts help mariners understand their surroundings; but, especially in the era before radar, GPS and other precise navigation aids, if a navigator was unsure of his position – especially when making a landfall – it could lead to disaster. This week’s Buildings at Risk article looks at some local structures built to reduce the risks to ships and seafarers. By Susan Temple, Castletown Heritage Trust and Dave Martin, Isle of Man Natural History and Antiquarian Society erybyhaven, with its landing place sheltered from the pre- vailing wind, provided the first port for the Island’sD ancient capital. Named after the Earls of Derby who landed there when bound for Castle Rushen, its strategic importance can be judged by the construction and arming of the forts on St. Michael’s Isle (a.k.a. ‘Fort Is- land’) to defend the haven – which was not just a trading port, and the principal port of entry for Customs, but was al- so home to much of the Manx fishing fleet. Two of the main centres for the growing herring trade were Derbyhaven and Doug- las; both had warehouses for the fish and smokehouses which produced ‘red herrings’ - smoked unsplit. Almost all traces of these red-herring era buildings have gone, the only survivor is a sin- Red-herring warehouse, Derbyhaven - 1981 (Manx Museum) Langness herring tower gle warehouse at Derbyhaven built in 1772, half of which has been converted into a house (but the smokehouse has van- ished). Derbyhaven is sheltered by the Langness peninsula, whose Manx name was Oaie Ny Baatyn Marroo, ‘Grave- yard of the Lost Ships’ – an accurate name for one of the most treacherous stretches of coastline on the island, indeed Admiralty charts describe the current off Langness as ‘Stream at max. 5 knots with heavy overfalls’ – our equiva- lent of Portland Bill and Race. HERRING TOWERS One of the hazards when passing along the South-East coast of the island, or making Notice to mariners from IoM Times (Manx Museum) Langness Lighthouse (Manx Museum) for Derbyhaven, is the low- lying nature of the Langness lights are erected to help mari- designed by Thomas Brine, land when viewed from sea- tower was still in use as a original prominence. Now peninsula – in poor visibil- ners ascertain their position who had arrived in Castletown ward. Built of local limestone, seamark when the tower was conserved, the tower can be ity the first intimation that in relation to navigational dan- in 1810 to serve as Clerk of they have castellated tops and incorporated into the Douglas seen in full from the central a ship is too close might be gers – be they the island itself Works to the Barracks Office, alarming interior staircases Head Hotel in 1869 (see illus- private courtyard; but unfor- when breakers are sighted or or offshore rocks and reefs - and who subsequently was re- built into the walls; and be- tration). tunately all except the ‘crown’ heard. Further North, where and are intended to help make sponsible for many of the im- cause of their popularity as In 1948, the surround- of the tower is once again the coast is steep-to, is an- a safe approach to a harbour portant buildings in the area seamarks with the herring ing building was gutted by eclipsed when viewed from other hazard - some seafarers or landing, or help keep safe including St. Mary’s Church fleet, became known as ‘her- fire, with the exception of the most other angles. had difficulty in distinguish- sea-room when passing the and the old House of Keys in ring towers’. famous concert hall (where ing how far ‘up’ the coast they island. Castletown, also the modifica- The Douglas tower was ‘Tipperary’ was first popular- LIGHTHOUSES were, they knew that the en- To try and combat the con- tions to Castle Rushen for its built on the top of Douglas ised) and the Tower, which From the 1700s, Merchants trance to Douglas harbour was tinued loss of ships and life use as a gaol. Head, on land belonging to the remained unscathed; the from Liverpool and Glasgow ‘just North of Douglas Head’ in the area of Langness and, The new seamarks were Goldie Taubman family of the building was then repaired. agitated for means to pro- but came to grief because they to a lesser degree at Douglas, modelled after the tower in Nunnery. It stood alone for fif- When the site was cleared tect their ships from running allegedly mistook another in 1811 the British Govern- Peel Castle – a proven design ty years, and despite the new prior to the construction aground on the Island as they headland for Douglas Head. ment built two unlit sea- which has stood now for over lighthouse on Douglas Head of the Douglas Head Apart- passed through the Irish Sea. Seamarks (landmarks de- marks - one on the outer side a thousand years. They are (which had been transferred ments, the Tower was spared While the need for lighthouses signed to be distinctive when of Langness, and the other on some sixty feet high, conspicu- to the Northern Lighthouse and in March 1999 briefly at the extremities of the island viewed from out at sea) and Douglas Head. They were both ous above the surrounding Board in 1859), the herring re-emerged to be seen in its was agreed in principle, the Tuesday, May 23, 2017 www.iomtoday.co.im ISLE OF MAN EXAMINER 9 BUILDINGS AT RISK Alyn ashore Langness in 1940 (Manx Museum) Langness wrecks The coast in the Langness area has probably seen more than its fair share of marine casu- alties, though many are not properly recorded. As elsewhere, some are commemorated with a simple memorial, or poignantly by gravestones for those lucky enough to be recovered for burial; some are documented courtesy of a press report, oth- ers only in oral history. Some marine losses though are better documented. Re- ports of the foundering of HM Brig ‘Racehorse’ at Langness in December 1822 not only record the tragedy, and the bravery and sacrifice of local rescuers, but analysis of the reports shows the need for distinctive aids to navigation. Racehorse, a brig of 18 guns with a complement of 121 men under the command of Captain William Suckling (a Herring tower Douglas conserved in modern courtyard relative of Admiral Lord Nel- son through his mother), was matter was complicated by a duce the number of casual- subject of a memorial poem bound for Douglas to pick up degree of territorial friction ties. Its purpose as a seamark by T.E. Brown, which begins the crew of the cutter ‘Vigilant’ between the Northern Light- would only have been useful ‘excellent Manxman, Scotia which had been badly dam- house Board, which covered in daylight hours; although gave you birth, but you were aged on Conister Rock some Scotland, and Trinity House short-range lights were pe- ours….’. weeks earlier. Having identi- which covered England (to riodically exhibited at the Almost all agreed the only fied the distinctive new lights which, since Revestment, the mouth of the haven on poles answer to this situation was on the Calf of Man, Racehorse Island now ‘belonged’). and then from a tower at the the construction of a proper made passage along the coast In 1815 an act of the British Fort (principally to aid en- lighthouse at Langness by the heading for Douglas, and in Sailing ship Anna ashore Langness (Manx Museum) Parliament finally empowered trance into Derbyhaven dur- Northern Lighthouse Board; due course the pilot saw a light the Commissioners for North- ing the herring season). but the English authorities ashore which he thought was and succeeded in saving all sion trying to differentiate ern Lights to build two light- The unlit herring tower no (the Board of Trade and Trin- that of Douglas Pier Head and the remaining crew. Sadly on between fixed lights ashore, houses on the island; however, doubt averted some catastro- ity House) remained intran- so turned shoreward. the final journey, a large wave especially on a populous coast, no money for their construc- phes, but ships continued to sigent despite pleas from However shortly after- swamped the boat and eight and is why Langness and other tion was forthcoming from the be wrecked around Langness the Manx Government, the wards, the ship struck a rock men were drowned, including modern lighthouses and har- British Government and it was – over forty between 1850 and Harbour Commissioners, and which they would later find three Manx rescuers. bour lights have different pat- left to Sir William Rae, Sheriff 1875 alone. Shipowners. From 1875 to 1877 was part of the Skerranes at At his Court Martial, Wil- terns of flashes (and some use of Edinburgh, and Mr. John John McMeiken, a mer- nine further wrecks occurred, Langness Point. liam Edwards, the Pilot, de- coloured lights) to allow them Gladstone, a representative of chant of Arbory Street, Castle- and eventually in December The weather was cloudy, it posed: ‘I beg to observe that to be uniquely identified. the Merchants of Liverpool, to town was deeply involved with 1877 Trinity House conceded was dark and the sea was run- the light which deceived me Good did come from the raise the money required. De- charitable enterprises, in- and agreed to the Northern ning high. was right over Langness Point Racehorse tragedy though – it signed by Robert Stevenson, cluding the Royal Benevolent Lighthouse Board construct- It quickly became apparent and is called Scarlett House, was one of the events which the lighthouses at the Point Society and the Shipwrecked ing a lighthouse at Langness.