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Textile Insight® MEDIA PLANNER 2021 ® TEXTILE INSIGHT TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION ® TEXTILE INSIGHT MEDIA PLANNER 2021 Textile Insight is Trends in Apparel & Footwear Design and Innovation • January/February 2019 a Formula4Media TEXTILETrends In Apparel & Footwear Design andINSI Innovation • January/FebruaryG 2017HT TEXTILETrends in Apparel & Footwear Design INSIGHT and Innovation • March/April 2018 publication designed TEXTILE INSIGHT to serve members of THE FACTORY iNvEnToLoGy the performance textile OF THE FUTURE HOW THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY IS INVENTING ITS FUTURE industry throughout the entire supply FEEL GOOD FUNCTION Fall ’17 Footwear Trends Smart Textiles Tech Advances chain. With an eye on Trade Show Previews & Recaps Making it in America innovation, and focus on active apparel and footwear, our skilled editorial team provides WHY WORK LINES NEW AGE PERFORMANCE TECH FOR A HEALTHY PLANET BUILT LEAN & GREEN TEXTURAL HEALING MATERIALS corporate executives, ECO-FRIENDLY DENIMS ARE THE NEW NORM FOOTWEAR THAT WORKS A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION / TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM material developers and A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION designers information and expert commentary In Every Issue: TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION needed to succeed in TRENDS IN APPAREL + FOOTWEAR DESIGN AND INNOVATION • MARCH/APRIL 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION In The Market today’s competitive INDUSTRY EFFORTS TO REACH NEW HEIGHTS OF RESPONSIBILITY Eco-Update textile business. SUSTAINABILITY SCALES UP ROADWAYS TO Made In America PROFITABILITY MAKING AN Technology IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT CREATING NEW USA-MADE Footwear BUSINESS MODELS IMPACT In the Studio PEOPLE & PRODUCTS INFLUENCING THE INDUSTRY Supply Chain TRENDSETTERS WOMEN IN TEXTILES TECHNOLOGY Trendsetters PLANT-BASED INNOVATION CATEGORIES RUNNING, FISHING, SUSTAINABILITY Strategies FOOTWEAR NATURE-INSPIRED TECH TOP TAKEAWAYS AND TRENDS ROBOTIC TEXTILE RESEARCH Education SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING TEXTILEINSIGHT.COM @TEXTILEINSIGHT textileinsight.com • @textileinsight Out of Context textileinsight.com ® TEXTILE INSIGHT MEDIA PLANNER 2021 Features IN THE STUDIO | FABRICATIONS IN THE MARKET | VOICES Jill Dumain Provides a Vision for bluesign Looking from the Inside Out. By Emily Walzer Laid-back comfort is the word for Fall ’19, with soft, snuggly looks proliferating. Vintage fabrications, in particular Sherpa, corduroy and handcrafted sweaters, A System Built on Sustainability are re-emerging in a variety of looks slated for the season ahead. A HEALTHY manufacturing process of the chemical products. We want to ensure the chemical producer has the required know-how that they can produce without harm to people PERSPECTIVE or their surroundings. After their site is approved, they become a bluesign system partner and can move onto submitting their chemical products for assessment. We Cozy run it through our tool that looks at environmental and health considerations (end points in toxicology jargon) and either approve or reject it. The chemicals that make A NEW OUTLOOK it through the assessment are then put onto our positive list of chemicals that we call the bluefinder. This enables ill Dumain’s departure from Patagonia the chemical supplier to label their chemical products as Comebacks may have raised a few eyebrows, however her extensive bluesign approved. The bluefinder is the sourcing tool industry experience and passion for environmental for safe chemistry for the textile mills. ON FUNCTIONALITY responsibility makes her new role as bluesign CEO a Next, the textile mill has two choices. They can buy the no-brainer. Her 27-year tenure at Patagonia included bluefinder to help them source better chemistry or they oncept III Founder David Parkes Jacket contains 80 percent recycled polyester. It’s leadership positions, innovative project launches and can become a bluesign system partner. The bluefinder saw his first Sherpa in 1963. He a touch of 70s, complemented by a hint of 90s, the introduction of bluesign tools and systems at the helps them to replace chemicals that are forbidden by started his career at pile and faux which are currently playing off each other in the Ventura, CA firm. Throughout her career Dumain has MRSLs (Manufacturers Restricted Substances Lists) IS FRAMED FOR been involved with the Organic Exchange, Textile and RSLs (Restricted Substance Lists). When I was fur maker Borg in the UK before marketplace. crossing the pond to Malden Mills Exchange and the Sustainability Working Group at the working for a brand I always wanted my mills to avoid ‘regrettable substitutions’ when working with chemistry. in 1976 to develop and merchan- Calming Corduroy Outdoor Industry Association, in addition to serving as Chairman of bluesign technologies’ Advisory Board The bluefinder helps a textile mill to choose a wise dise the fabric (along with other sliver knits). At the A little over 10 years ago, during the financial C from 2011 representing brands. Since 2000, when Peter replacement when one of their chemicals in use contains time, “the demand was super-high and the margins crisis, men’s corduroy blazers on the runway WELLBEING BENEFITS Waeber debuted the input-based textile supply chain substances that can be found on one of the restrictive were super-high” for Sherpa, he said. mimicked the U.S.-manufactured, mass-produced management system, bluesign has been instrumental in lists. If they choose to become a system partner then In the 1980s, the fabric took a backseat to polar variety popular with the working class in the late Jill Dumain, bluesign CEO reducing harmful chemicals in textile production and they will also go through a site audit with similar criteria fleece, only to have started gaining more traction 1800s during the Long Depression. Corduroy’s raising eco-awareness from fiber to the chemical supplier to ensure the same protections over the last two-to-three years. “I think Sherpa is vertical cut-pile stripes (formed by an extra system BY EMILY WALZER to finished goods. Here, Dumain move along the supply chain. If their site is approved having a resurgence because the sliver knit machine of filling yarns in the fabric) make for a workhorse demystifies the bluesign process and they become a system partner using bluefinder is extremely versatile,” explained Parkes, adding, – a perfect fit for college students and beatniks in and offers her fresh perspective chemistry, they are also able to label their products as “It can offer many different fabrications because the 1960s. In the late 1970s and 80s, preppy-types he world of performance of Studio 317, a softer side of perfor- longer the case. Now there is a meeting on what distinguishes the system bluesign approved. you are dictating to each stitch which fiber type and surfers caught on to the campy cloth, only to and future objectives. The last step moving this direction in the supply chain will be blown into it.” have the fabric return in ’90s grunge, paired with is shifting as innova- mance that advocates healthy lifestyle in the middle as fashion and sport come is the brand selling to consumers. They are the front Sherpa, or faux shearling, is either 100 percent flannel shirts. tion quickens its pace and prevention is what’s happening now. together.” Even within the outdoor facing business that has to answer the questions of many polyester or a blend of polyester and acrylic. Wool Fall 2019’s corduroy from prAna is less fussy. industry, a marketplace fairly inquiring minds. We have put in place a new tool for can also be introduced into the mix. As the yarn prAna design director, Andrea Cirque-Austin said and strives to stay “Think of it in terms of multi-channel tech; At Portland, OR-based Studio 317, well educated about supply brands in the last year and that is a brand assessment. forms a jersey stitch, fiber is blown into the stitch it “evokes a nostalgic feeling that is comforting in relevant in an active/ consumers now want a multi-channel LeMay’s technical expertise blends with chain certifications, bluesign This is designed to give them an evaluation, gap analysis to present a high pile fabric. It is a very practical this fast-moving world.” Employed as an alterna- is still something of a mystery. and action plan on their current environmental, health lifestyle market that is wardrobe: Apparel that is versatile, good DeCourcy’s background in high-end fabric and hard wearing, with abrasion resistance tive to denim, corduroy brings What is the easiest way to and safety (EHS) program with a focus on the evaluation and a good warmth value. a fancy feel to casualwear. For Retro constantly on the go. looking, comfortable and functional,” says luxury to innovate without sacrificing understand the value of of mostly textile mills to help them to understand and Toad&Co’s Sherpa reinterpretation takes on a men, designers created a yarn dye Returns A new holistic approach is emerging, LeMay, adding, “These days, consum- function or fashion. The result: a modern bluesign? manage the riskier aspects of their existing supply 1970s campy, feel-good vibe. “It’s a look back to plaid in corduroy for shirtings. For with T “One of my colleagues calls chains. In addition to the brand assessment, brand simpler times that align with the free spirit of get- women, a washed-down pigment Modern taking the hard edge off of performance. ers have access to any and every brand aesthetic that captures this softer side bluesign the ‘easy’ button for system partners also have access to the deep knowledge ting out and experiencing life on the trail under look was used in several styles Appeal New technologies focus not only on out there — globally — so they have a of performance. the industry yet we all know that bluesign has in textile chemistry, the community of the open sky,” said Kyle Boettcher, VP design/ to create a “dimensional effect the complexity when dealing likeminded companies and a tool to implement deep in merchandising/supply.
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