History's Heritage Art Treasures in Sacred Buildings in and Around Rimini
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Provincia di Rimini Assessorato alla Cultura I - 47900 Rimini, piazza Malatesta 28 [email protected] Assessorato al Turismo tél. +39 0541 716371 - fax +39 0541 783808 www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it Provincia di Rimini History’s heritage Art treasures in sacred buildings Assessorato alla Cultura Assessorato al Turismo in and around Rimini of the territory beside the text as you read. of theterritorybesidetextasyou adiagram willhave theflapopen,andyou Keep is printedinsidethejacketflap. A mapoftheplacesincludedinthisGuide Provincia di Rimini Assessorato al Turismo Rimini Santarcangelo di Romagna San Salvatore Church San Michele Parish Church San Giuliano Parish Church Santarcangelo Collegiate Church San Fortunato Parish Church Morciano di Romagna Sant’Agostino Church St Gregory’s Abbey Malatesta Temple Montescudo Our Lady of Graces Church Santa Maria del Soccorso Madonna della Colonella Church Parish Church (Valliano) Shrine of Our Lady of Mercy / Montefiore Conca Santa Chiara Church Our Lady of Montefiore Church Church of the Servites (known as I Servi) Our Lady of Mercy, Verucchio the Hospital Church San Martino Church Montegridolfo Church of the Holy Cross (Villa Verucchio) San Rocco Church Verucchio Collegiate Church Blessed Virgin of Graces San Giovanni in Marignano Church (Trebbio) Church of Santa Maria in Pietrafitta Saludecio St Peter’s Parish Church St Blaise Parish Church Provincia di Rimini Assessorato alla Cultura Assessorato al Turismo Agenzia per il marketing di distretto Pier Giorgio Pasini History’s heritage Art treasures in sacred buildings in and around Rimini In collaboration with Colophon Coordination: Valerio Lessi Graphic Design: Relè - Leonardo Sonnoli Photographs taken from Rimini Province Photograph Archives With thanks to the photographers: L. Bottaro P. Cuccurese P. Delucca S. Di Bartolo L. Fabbrini R. Gallini L. Liuzzi G. Mazzanti T. Mosconi Paritani V. Raggi E. Salvatori R. Sanchini F. Taccola R. Urbinati Translation: Gillian Forlivesi Heywood, Link-Up Rimini Printing: Pazzini Stampatore Editore Villa Verucchio (Rimini) First Edition February 2003 Contents Introduction > 4 The Extensive Affirmation of Devotional Art Itinerary 1 > 7 Ancient Parish Churches Itinerary 2 > 11 Monasteries Itinerary 3 > 15 Convents Itinerary 4 > 19 In the Steps of Saint Francis Itinerary 5 > 25 Churches Dedicated to Our Lady Itinerary 6 > 31 Little Cathedrals Background > 37 Local Saints Art and Memory Bibliography > 38 Further Reading www > Before you leave home, visit our site www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it www.signoriadeimalatesta.it Introduction > The Extensive Affirmation of Devotional Art The country around Rimini is very varied, owing to the numerous hills which surround it and to the two rivers, the Marecchia and the Conca, which form spacious and picturesque valleys. This is fertile land, and man has lived here since prehistoric times, especially where the terrain is sloping and changeable; consequently the area has a wealth of settlements great and small, and is criss-crossed by a dense network of roads linking it to the adjoining regions. The geographic position of Rimini, between the Apennine hills and the sea, looking out over the plain of Emilia, has made it a place of passage ever since ancient times, and thus a meeting place for different cultures, and a place of contention and confrontation. This unquiet history has left its mark very visibly on the landscape. The bellicose and scintillating Middle Ages, above all, have left behind mementoes of themselves on the hilltops of San Marino and in the ruins which still crown so many hills, the crumbling walls which still encircle villages, the fragments of towers which still mark strategic places of passage. Picturesque ruins, but ruins nevertheless, the fruit of events now over and done, and far away in time. Less evident and less ruinous, but still more numerous to the observant, are mementoes of a different kind: mementoes of a widespread religious faith often rooted far back in ancient times, as is shown by a certain layering of evidence in the “holy place”, and sometimes in religious buildings themselves. An ancient faith, but one still living and breathing today, the traces of which are intermingled with traces of ancient peaceful industry. On the hilltops, amidst well-tended fields or alongside country roads, the signs are there: little shrines kept fresh and alive by simple piety. On the outskirts of villages we can often find oratories which once stood next to pilgrim hospitals; while in villages and hamlets stand parish churches in a variety of sizes and styles, or shrines dedicated to Our Lady. The Second World War turned this area into a battle zone, on the edges of the Gothic Line, bringing death to many and serious damage to every populated place, including of course religious buildings, which often held important tokens of the past, and just as often were themselves precious tokens of history and tradition, of faith and art. The depopulation of the countryside, which reached a peak in the early 1960s, also had repercussions on religious buildings in the area. Despite all this, many bell- towers still stand, and are in many ways the most characteristic 4 feature of the landscape: they underline the presence of places of worship, more or less modest, more or less well-restored and well-kept. Anyone wishing to explore this part of the country will find interesting and often attractive tokens of religious art everywhere, tokens which at times are genuine masterpieces with a beauty and a significance made even greater for being still housed in the places for which they were originally created, and still fulfilling their original purpose. 5 Itinerary 1 > Ancient Parish Churches Santarcangelo The spread of Christianity in and around Rimini is San Michele Church surrounded, as it is everywhere, by tales and legends in which it via Celletta dell’Olio is difficult to distinguish truth from fantasy. Christianity probably tel. 0541 626109 arrived fairly early, considering the role, by no means secondary, visit on request which the city and its harbour played in trade with Africa and the East in late Roman times; and it was the importance of the city and the harbour which led the Emperor Costanzo to choose Rimini as the seat for a Council of Western Bishops, in the year 359. Considering too the close links of the Roman city with its dependent territory, we may suppose that Christianity also spread fairly quickly inland. Documents dating from before the tenth century show quite a dense network of “Pieve”, or parish churches (at least sixteen) protecting the most important and most populous places. But all concrete traces of these vanished centuries ago; in some cases even the exact location is no longer known, while in others all that remains is a relatively recent reconstruction. The same thing occurred within the city itself: all the oldest religious buildings have disappeared altogether, including even the Cathedral dedicated to St Columba, which was deconsecrated and demolished during the Napoleonic period. The most ancient and attractive of the surviving buildings is the parish church of Santarcangelo di Romagna, dedicated to St Michael Archangel. It stands on a stretch of flat land a kilometre outside the village, and is a single-cell structure with a perfectly proportioned and most luminous interior, showing the features typical of the art of sixth-century Byzantine Ravenna. The polygonal exterior of the apse, the narrow-shaped bricks, and the harmonious series of cambered windows all call to mind the style of Ravenna. None of this is surprising, given that the entire territory of Rimini was part of the Byzantine Pentapolis and was long protected against barbarian invasions, and that for many centuries the Church of Ravenna held extensive possessions in Romagna and Le Marche. One of the few remaining traces of this chapter of history is the dedication of a number of churches to Byzantine and Lombard saints, of whom St Michael Archangel was one. The church is devoid of decoration now, but recent archaeological excavations have led to the recovery of numerous fragments of mosaic pavements and marble incrustations, evidence that it must once have been richly decorated. The Byzantine parish church There is also much evidence that the church continued to of St Michael Archangel, fulfil its function down the centuries: the bell-tower attached to Santarcangelo. the façade during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; a detached 7 Rimini fresco of St Sebastian (fifteenth century); a splendid fourteenth- San Salvatore Church century Crucifix, now in the Collegiate Church; and the cippus via San Salvatore, 24 which serves as a base for the church’s one altar table: a piece of tel. 0541 730159 late-mediaeval sculpture with sprays of foliage and a bird of prey visit on request lifting in its claws a small quadruped, roughly carved in a summary fashion, in the barbarian style. Verucchio Such early mediaeval sculpture is rare in the Rimini area, but San Martino Church there are one or two other surviving pieces, notably a fine via Marconi, 1 recently-discovered fragment of a pluteus from the church of tel. 0541 670197 Santa Maria in Pietrafitta (in San Giovanni in Marignano), and visit on request some capitals from the church of San Salvatore on the outskirts of Rimini towards Coriano. The pluteus dates from the eighth or Saiano di Torriana ninth century, while the capitals are probably from a later period Our Lady of Saiano Church though modelled on Byzantine capitals, similar in form and with • opening times: summer the same decorative tracery. The City Museum in Rimini has a 7:30-19:00; winter 7:30-17:00 good collection of mediaeval and late-mediaeval sculpture, though often fragmentary and of uncertain provenance. The church of San Salvatore is interesting. Although it has been the subject of much reconstruction and restoration work, it has nevertheless kept the picturesque appearance of a solid “Romanesque” church: the simple design and uneven masonry characterised by rows of stone and brick, often intermingled, protruding blind arcades along the sides, narrow slit windows, and the use of reclaimed fragments of marble, some of them Roman.