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Extension Bulletin 536 September 1959

Extension Service Institute of Agricultural Sciences Washington State University Pullman, Washington Some Rules of Good Horsemanship

Good riders observe the following rules: 9. Keep the proper tension on the ; avoid either tight or dangling 1. Mount correctly from the left side; reins. make the horse stand still until the 10. Slow the horse down when making rider is properly seated in the . a sharp turn.

2. Ride with the heels k~pt down; the 11. Do not ride too close to the horse toes turned out slightly; the head in front to avoid danger from kick­ and the chest lifted; the shoulders mg. Either keep abreast or a full square; the elbows close to the body; horse's length behind other mounts. and the ankles, shoulders, arms and 12. Walk the horse when going up or wrists flexed. down hill.

3. Avoid such habits as "clacking" to 13. Do not force the horse to take a the horse or slapping him with the rapid gait for more than a half ends of the reins. mile at a time without allowing a breathing spell. 4. Warm up the horse slowly; walk him the first half mile and then jog 14. Walk the horse when approaching him slowly for another quarter mile. and passing through underpasses and over bridges.

5. Hold the horse to a walk when 15. Bring the horse in cool; ride at a traveling over paved streets or roads. walk the last mile to the .

16. Never allow the mount to gorge on 6. Keep to the right side of the road, water or feed when he is hot. except when passing, and give right­ of-way courteously. 17. Groom thoroughly after each ride.

7. Never rush past riders who are pro­ 18. Avoid walking behind any horse. ceeding at a slower gait. This startles 19. Wash the off thoroughly before both horses and riders and frequent­ hanging it in the tackroom. Re­ ly causes accidents. Instead, ap­ move any hair or sweat marks from proach slowly and pass cautiously on the left side. the saddle and before putting them on the rack. Wash all leather equipment at frequent intervals with 8. Keep the horse under control at all saddle soap. times. Galloping a willing horse not only is poor horsemanship, but 20. Feed the horse a balanced ration the act shows ignorance on the part and maintain him in a healthy and of the rider. spirited condition at all times.

2 HORSEMANSHIP

By M. E. Ensminger, Chairman of the Department of Animal Science, Washington State University.

Riding cannot be learned by merely reading a set of in­ structions. It can be mastered only after patient practice under a competent instructor. This bulletin gives some basic prin­ ciples of horsemanship and information about equipment to help beginners and to refresh the memories of experienced horsemen. The basic steps in learning to ride are ( 1 ) becoming fa­ miliar with the horse and equipment and (2) then learning to use that equipment properly. Knowledge of correct groom­ ing and care of the horse, care of equipment, saddling, bridling, and leading is also essential.

CONTENTS

EQUIPMENT .. 4 RIDING 13 Bits 4 Mounting and Dismounting 13 and 6 Holding the Reins 16 8 The Balanced Seat . 16 The 8 Styles of Riding . 18 The 8 Saddling the Mount 10 GROOMING 20 Miscellaneous Equipment II Grooming Equipment 20 The II Grooming Procedure and Method 22 Martingales I I The Breast Plate, The Breast Collar 12 SHOWING LIGHT HORSES 23 Care of Tack 12 Showing to 23

3 Equipment

BITS The bit is the most important part of the . In fact, the chief purpose of the headstall is to hold the bit in its place in the horse's mouth. There are many types of bits, but all provide com­ munication between the hands of the rider or driver and the mouth of the horse. The is the most widely used variety. : Used on most cow ponies Bit

Liverpool Bit: A used on heavy harness horses

I'JtJ---- loop Roper curved Cheek Bit: Used on many ~-. Reinring ropi nQ horses ~ Moothp;oco

Bar Bit: Used on Trotting Harness Horses which carry check reins and are ' driven with a strong hand

Rein ring Mouthpiece Link

Half-cheek Snaffle Bit: Used on harness race horses, roadsters and fine Spade Mouth Bit: Used on many harness horses stock horses

4 ..,...,...-Headstall rino ~-- dee ---Mouthpiece ;::; ~rb chain hook

Shank Rein rino Weymouth Curb Bit: Used along with a snaffle bit in a Weymouth Bridle for 3- and 5- ga ited horses.

) -Points of attachment Eyelet for for lip stra~ Q·--l~Rinos for two sets of reins Pelham Curb Bit: -Used in a Pelham Bridle for hunters, ponies, and pleasure horses.

Walking Horse Bit: Frequently used on Walking Horses.

Snaffle Bit: The most widely used of all bits.

rr==/€ / Link ~~Swivel 2~-Dee Dee Race Bit: Often used on Thoroughbred race horses.

5 BRIDLES AND HACKAMORES The hackamore has a pair of reins and an ordinary headstall that holds a braided­ Bridles may be single or double. A rawhide or rope noseband with a knot­ single bridle has one bit; a double bridle arrangement under the horse's jaw. A usually has both a snaffle bit and a curb hackamore can be used to control and bit, two headstalls and two pairs of reins. train a young horse without injuring his All bridles should be properly fitted. mouth. It is often used to train cow The headstall should neither slide back ponies and polo ponies. on the horse's neck nor pull up against A properly ad jus ted hackamore rests his ears. The cheek straps should be on the horse's nose, about 4 inches from adjusted so that the bit rests easily in the top of the nostrils or on the base the mouth without drawing up the corn­ of the cheek bones. It should be loose ers. The throat latch should be buckled enough to allow two fingers to be passed loosely enough to allow a hand to pass between it and the jaw. between it and the horse's throat. Light bridles and bits usually indicate competent horsemen and well mannered horses.

Headstall-----

-Headstall

Hackamore Bit Bridle (removable mouth­ Hockamore: Which is piece): Used on Western cow ponies, popular for breaking horses. and on young horses when they are being broken because it eliminates the possibility of injuring the mouth.

6 Crown piece or headstall ., Crown piece or headstall r Headstall ~~

Brow band

Cheek piece 1 Cheek piece ---iLII--lll

Throat latch 111 Caveson or -...... ! Nose band Caveson or Noseband

Snaffle bit----\~\\6. Weymouth Pelham curb bit Curbcurbb3~ chain Curb chain ~11l Curb chain •• \ \

Lip strap · :-:-..~ ·lip strap il '

Curb rein •

Snaffle rein ___..._...,

Weymouth Bridle: A double-bitted, Pelham Bridle: A single-bitted, double-reined bridle used in double-reined bridle used on One Ear ( split ear) Bridle: showing three- and five gaited hunters, polo ponies, and Often used on working saddle horses. pleasure horses. stock horses. SADDLES The Western Saddle Although there are many different The Western saddle has a metal or saddles, the English saddle and the West­ wooden tree; a pommel topped with a ern saddle are the two basic types. horn for roping; a comparatively deep seat; a cantle; heavy skirts and heavy . The stirrups may be either The English Saddle hooded or open. The Western saddle is 'Vhe English saddle includes flat sad­ primarily a work saddle. It is designed dles modified for training, racing, jump­ for comfort during ali-day riding and to ing, park riding and polo. English saddles provide enough strength to stand up always have relatively flat seats and are under the strain of roping. However it lightly constructed. This is the saddle is heavy, hot in the summer, and in commonly used on bridle paths in the pleasure riding it tempts the rider to city, especially in the East. The English "pull leather" as a substitute for skill and saddle allows the finished rider to show balance. The average Western saddle his best in riding form, skill and balance. weighs from 3 5 to 40 pounds.

,-Horn Fork Cantle Seat I

Dee ring Front jockey and seat jockey, one piece

Leather flank Front tie girth billet strop or cinch strap

Fender or Sudodero--­ ---"" Stirrup leather

THE WESTERN SADDLE

8 Panel

Skirt ---t~

Stirrup bar 1 "'- lh if~··

Stirrup iron

\0 stirrup iron Flop

Stirrup leather

THE ENGLISH SADDLE Saddling the Mount that he cannot be cinched snugly, the untracking will usually cause him to Regardless of the type of saddle, it relax. Second, if a horse has any bad should be placed on the horse's back so habits, he will often get them out of his that the girth will come about 4 inches system before the rider mounts. to the rear of the point of the horse's After the horse has been ridden a few elbow. When first adjusted, .the girth minutes, the girth should always be re­ should be loose enough to allow a finger examined and tightened if necessary. The between it and· the horse's belly. After saddle should be cinched tightly enough tightening the saddle, it is always a good so that it will not turn when mounting, practice to "untrack" the horse by leading but not so tightly that it causes discom­ him ahead several paces before mounting. fort to the horse. This untracking does two things. First, The length of stirrups will depend if the horse is the kind that blows up so upon the type of riding. The length may

FINGERS ON RIGHT ARM POMMEL FULLY EXTENDED

,· LEFT SNAFFEL {· ·' REIN

STIRRUP SHOULD JUST REACH INTO RIGHT ARMPIT...... • ADJUST ACCORDINGLY...... REVERSE ARM ARRANGEMENT WHEN ADJUSTING RIGHT OR OFF STIRRUP

10 vary from very short on running horses to quite long on stock horses. The stirrup Neck strap leather on English saddles should always be twisted so that the flat side of the leather comes against the leg of the rider.

For correct posting, in , Girth loop the stirrup straps or stirrup leathers must \ be adjusted to the right length. If the f- c:_ ~ - - -=-'0 stirrups are too short, posting will be Bottom strap high and exaggerated. For English riding, STANDING the stirrups can be adjusted to near the correct length before mounting by mak­ ing them about 1 inch shorter than the length of the rider's arm with fingers extended. For , the length of stirrups will be about right when there is approximately 3 inches clearance be­ tween the saddle tree and the crotch of the rider standing in the stirrups. MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT There are so many kinds of equipment RUNNING MARTINGALE that not all can be mentioned, but some of the generally used articles are nose­ martingale from getting under the horse's bands, martingales, and breast plates and feet when he lowers his head. This stand­ breast collars. ing martingale keeps the horse from rais­ ing his head beyond a certain level with­ The Noseband out being cramped. It is generally used The noseband is a wide leather band on saddle horses that rear and on polo which passes around the nose about two ponies and stock horses that throw their finger widths below the cheek bones. It heads up in response to a severe curb is used to keep the mouth shut and the or a heavy hand. bit in position, and it may also furnish Some horsemen prefer to use the run­ a point of attachment for a standing ning martingale on horses that habitually martingale. Most riding bridles are rear. They feel that the standing martin­ equipped with . The noseband gale sets the horse's head too high. The should be adjusted so that it is about running martingale is not attached to 1 Y2 inches below the cheek bone and the horse's head. It ends in two rings loose enough so that two fingers may through which the reins pass. This ar­ be placed under it. rangement keeps the horse from raising Martingales his head too high, but allows more free­ There are two kinds of martingales: dom of movement so that it can be used standing (sometimes called a tied own) in jumping. A running martingale is and running (ring) . The standing mar­ adjusted correctly when the snaffle reins tingale is a strap that runs between the stretched from the pommel form a forelegs from the girth to the noseband. straight line from bit to pommel with It has a light neck strap to keep the the horse's head in a normal position.

11 The Breast Plate; adjustable strap that runs from the ring The Breast Collar between the forelegs to the girth. Some­ The breast plate consists of a short, times the breast plate is equipped with wide strap that passes over the neck in a strap that runs to the noseband and front of the withers; two adjustable straps acts as a tiedown. that run from the neck strap back to The breast collar serves the same pur­ the saddle; two adjustable straps that run pose as the breast plate. On slender­ down the front of the shoulders to a bodied horses a breast plate or breast ring between the forelegs; and another collar keeps the saddle from slipping to the rear. It should be adjusted as loosely as possible, but still hold the saddle in place. Make allowance for movement of the horse's neck. CARE OF TACK -Neck strop Good tack is expensive and deserves good care. If properly treated, it will last for years. w Ideally, each item of equipment should be cleaned after each use and at frequent intervals when not in use. This is not ~~~ tl_ always practical, however. Nevertheless, ~-&!f/'-::"ir<~c; .))~ "f, at regular and frequent intervals, all leath­ t.1~:;::.:___::~ •. ":-;~- ~- er should be cleaned with saddle soap and treated with neat's-foot oil. In addi­ Girth d~llar ,:~;) tion ro extending the life of leather, proper care gives softness and pliability and lessens saddle and harness sores. While cleaning, inspect the bridle reins, THE BREAST COLLAR stirrup leathers and cinch because the rider's safety depends upon these straps.

12 Riding

MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING 6. Come slowly and easily to rest in Before mounting, take two precautions. the saddle. Avoid punishing or frighten­ Always check the cinch for tightness and ing the horse by suddenly dropping the the stirmp straps or leather for length. entire weight of your body into the sad- ill~ . A loose cinch may let the saddle slip down on the horse's side or belly-espec­ 7. Without looking, shove the right ially during mounting or dismounting. If foot into the right stirrup and properly the cinch is properly adjusted, you will adjust borh stirrups under the ball of the have to force to get more than the first foot. At the same time, gather the reins half of your fingers under it. in one or both hands. If you hold the The steps in mounting are as follows : reins with your left hand, toss the ends of the reins (the "bight") to the right 1. Always mount from the left side side of the horse's neck. In English style of the horse. Stand beside the horse's riding, drop your right hand loosely to left front leg and face toward the rear. the side or put it on your left wrist; in This is safer than mounting while facing western riding, place the right hand on the front of the horse since if the horse the thigh. Never put it on the pommel starts to move, the rider is automatically of the saddle. swung into the saddle. 8. Sit easily in the saddle, with legs 2. Gather the reins in the left hand. hanging comfortably, heels well down and Ad just them so that a gentle pressure the toes turned out slightly. This position that restrains but does not back the horse permits proper leg contact with the horse is applied equally on each side of the and a more secure seat. horse's mouth. Place the left hand on, Correct dismounting is just the reverse or just in front of, the horse's withers. of mounting. First, carefully gather the 3. Hold the stirrup with the right reins in the left hand which is placed on hand and shove the left foot into it. Then the pommel or in front of the withers. immediately place the right hand on the Kick the right foot free from the stirrup. cantle at the rear of the saddle. In Transfer your weight to the left foot as western riding, put the right hand on you swing your right leg backward across the saddle horn instead of the cantle. the horse's croup. Grasp the cantle with your right hand (or the horn in western 4. Keep close to the horse for good riding ) , descend to the ground, and re­ leverage and spring up from the right move the left foot from the stirrup. foot. Pause momentarily when you reach When properly executed, mounting a standing position. The left leg should and dismounting are a series of rhythmic be straight. movements. The entire operation is so 5. Swing the fully extended right leg smooth and graceful that it is difficult slowly over the horse's croup, being care­ to tell when one stage ends and the next ful not to kick him. begins. ·

13 MOUNT FROM "NEAR" OR LEFT SIDE GATHER REINS IN LEFT HAND

STEADY STIRRUP WITH RIGHT HAND PAUSE MOMENTARILY IN STANDING POSITION

14 / \; · <:~ =~~ - ---

. ) .

SWING RIGHT LEG OVER HORSE'S BACK EASE DOWN INTO THE SADDLE

SECURE RIGHT STIRRUP EASILY, ALERT, HEAD WITHOUT LOOKING DOWN UP AND HEELS DOWN

15 HOLDING THE REINS THE BALANCED SEAT The rider may hold the reins either in Correct riding includes good rhythm the left hand alone or in both hands. In and lv..hnce. The rider's movements must western riding, only one hand, usually be in complete harmony with the horse's the left, holds the reins. movements. This assures greater security Rein pressure should never be more for the rider and more freedom of action than absolutely necessary. And, the reins for the horse. should not be used to stay on the horse. A balanced seat is essential in correct A horse's mouth is tender, but it can be riding. A balanced seat requires the least toughened by unnecessary roughness. effort to remain in the saddle and inter­ Good hands on the reins move in rhythm feres least with the horse's movements with the head of the horse. Beginners and equilibrium. The rider must be "with are likely tO let their hands bob too the horse," rather than ahead of or be­ much, thus jerking the horse's mouth hind him. unnecessarily. The desired "light hands" When a balanced seat is maintained, exist when a light feeling extends to the the center of gravity of the rider is horse's mouth via the reins. directly over the center of gravity of

HOLDING THE REINS WESTERN STYLE

LEFT HAND

Most western riders hold the reins as shown above, but in American Association approved western riding contests, the reins must come out of the hand together with no fingers between the reins.

16 HOLDING THE REINS ENGUSH STYLE

DOUBLE -REIN BRIDLE

LEFT HAND

ARM HElD HORIZONTAL ------­ TO El80W REINS IN TWO HANDS

SINGLE-REIN BRIDLE

REIN IN TWO HANDS

17 the horse. With the proper seat, the rider In this poswon the body is easily erect will need ony the minimum use of aids and balanced on a base consisting of to get immediate and correct response seat, thighs, knees and stirrups. The chest from nhe horse at any gait. is high and just forward of true vertical. The back is hollow, the waist relaxed, The balanced seat is achieved mainly the head erect and the shoulders square. by shifting the body from the hips up. Knees, legs, ankles and thighs usually In riding hunters-including cross stay in a fixed position. The rider will country riding-and jumpers, the stirrups lean forward more or less according to are shortened and the foot is shot home the speed and gait of the horse, but he with the stirrup iron resting against the should always stay in balance over his heel. The upper part of the rider's body base of support. The eyes, chin and chest is thrust forward and a comparatively are lifted to permit clear vision ahead loose rein is kept. The higher the jumps, and normal .posture of the back. the shorter the stirrups should be and the more pronounced the forward inclination The greater the speed and the inclina­ of the body. Most polo players prefer to tion of the body forward, the shorter the use medium length stirrups with feet stirrups. The jockey rides his mount with shot home. This permits good grip when very short stirrups and reins and a pro­ turning at full speed. The stirrups are nounced forward position.· He rises out also short enough to allow the player to of his saddle and supports himself almost stand up in the stirrup irons when mak­ entirely with the stirrups, knees and legs. ing a long reach for the ball. In steeplechasing, the position of the rider is less extreme than in flat racing When using a stock saddle and riding since it is necessary to combine speed western style, the rider should sit straight, with security. keep the legs fairly straight-or bent slightly forward at the knees-and rest the ball of the foot on the stirrup tread with the heels down. The left hand with STYLES OF RIDING the reins should be carried in a relaxed manner slightly above and ahead of the There are different seats or positions horn. The right hand should be placed for different styles of riding. Fashion, on the thigh. "Sitting" the saddle is particularly in the show ring, also decrees required at all gaits. Neither posting the that certain form be followed. trot (jog) nor standing in the stirrups at the trot or canter (lope) is accepted When riding a three- or five-gaited in western style riding. Because speed park hack, either on a bridle path or in and agility are frequently required of the show ring, the rider sits erect and in stock horses, a firm seat and superior bal­ the lowest part of the saddle, with a space ance are important. of at least a hand's breadth between the back of his breeches and the cantle. The Each of the styles of riding differs ball of the foot rests directly over the in appearance, but the end result is the stirrup iron; knees are in; heels are lower same-balanced riding. An accomplished than the toes; and the hands and reins horseman or horsewoman can and does are in such position that the horse will change the seat to meet the style of carry his head high and his neck arched. riding.

18 WALK TROT

LINE BODY

HANDS NO WEIGHT STEADY -- ---JJ ON BUTTOCKS

BODY FORWARD

CANTER GALLOP

19 Grooming Proper grooming is necessary to make Rubber or m etal cuny comb: Used to the horse attractive and to keep the best groom animals that have long, thick health and condition. Grooming cleans coats; to remove caked mud; to loosen the hair, keeps the skin functioning more matted scurf and dirt in the hair; and naturally, lessens skin diseases and para­ to clean the brush. Use gently in small sites, and improves the condition and fit­ circles rather than with pressure and in ness of the muscles. long strokes. The metal curry comb Grooming should be rapid and thor­ should never be used below the knees ough, bur not so rough or severe as to or hocks, about the head, or over bony cause irritation-either of the skin or prominences. Likewise, it should not be the temper. Take special care to keep used on animals ·that have been recently all parts of the body clean and free from clipped or that have a fine, thin coat of any foulness. hair. A wisp of hay or the grooming Horses that are stabled should be cloth can be used on animals with fine, groomed thoroughly at least once each thin coats. day. Those that are worked or exercised Body brush : Principal tool used for should be groomed both before leaving grooming. It can be used for brushing the stable and immediately upon their the entire body. return. Dandy brtt.rh: Made of stiff fiber, us­ The recommended grooming procedure ually about two inches in length. It can for heated, wet or sweating animals is be used instead of the curry comb for as follows: removing light dirt from the skin and is 1. Wipe off and pqt away equipment excellent for brushing the mane and tai l. used as fast as possible. Mane and tail comb : Convenient for 2. Remove excess perspiration with combing out a matted mane or tail. a sweat scraper and rub briskly with a Grooming cloth1 drying cloth: A suit­ grooming or drying cloth to dry partially able grooming cloth can be made from the coat. old toweling or old blankets. A conven­ ient size is 18 to 24 inches square. The 3. Blanket and walk the horse until grooming cloth is used to remove dirt cool. Give him a couple of swallows of and dust from the coat; to wipe our water every few minutes while cooling the eyes, ears, nostrils, lips and dock; and out. to give the coat a final sheen or polish. Idle horses that are on pasture do not Also, it may be used to dry or ruffle need daily grooming, but an occasional the coat before brushing. A suitable brushing of their coats is desirable. drying cloth can be made from an·ordin­ ary burlap bag. It is used to dry partially the coat of horses that have been worked. GROOMING EQUIPMENT Sweat scraper: Used to remove excess There is hardly any limit to the kinds perspiration from heated, wet and swear­ and styles of grooming equipment. How­ ing animals. ever, the articles shown here are as good H oo f pick (or hook): Used to clean as any and are adequate. out the feet.

20 Curry Comb

Body Brush

Dandy Brush

Mane 8 Tai I Comb

Hoof Pick {or hook l

Grooming Cloth

21 GROOMING PROCEDURE legs, at the point of the elbows and in AND METHOD the fetlocks. Aftc.~ you finish grooming the left To be sure that the horse will be side of the horse, transfer the brush to groomed thoroughly and that no body the right hand and the curry comb to parts will be missed, follow a definite nhe left and groom the right side of the order of grooming. The grooming pro­ animal in the same order as the left side. cedure may be varied somewhat to suit individual preferences; however, the fol­ 3. Brush the head; comb and brush lowing\ procedure may be as good as any: the mane and tail: Use the body brush to brush the head. Then use the mane 1. Clean out the feet: Use the hoof and tail comb to comb out the mane pick. Work from the heel toward the and tail. Then brush the mane and tail toe. Be sure to clean out thoroughly the with either the body brush or the dandy depressions between the frog and the bars. brush. Brush the mane downward. Clean While clear~ing the feet, inspect for the tail by brushing upward, a few strands thrush and loose shoes. of hair at a time. Occasionally, the tail 2. Groom the body: With the curry should be washed out with warm water comb in the right hand and the brush and soap. in the left hand, curry and brush the left 4. Wipe with grooming cloth: Use side of the horse. Begin on the neck, the grooming cloth to wipe about the then proceed in order to the breast, with­ ears, face, eyes, nostrils, lips, sheath and ers, shoulders, foreleg down to the knee, dock, and to give a final polish to the back, side, belly, croup and hind leg down coat. to the hock. Then brush from the knee and hock down toward the hoofs. At 5. Check the grooming: Check the frequent intervals, clean the dust and hair thoroughness of grooming by passing the from the brush with the curry comb and fingertips against the natural lay of the knock the curry comb against your heel hair. H the coat and skin are not clean, or the back of the brush to free it from the fingers will be dirtied and gray lines dirt. on the coat will show where the fingers Some horsemen prefer to curry first passed. Also check for cleanliness in such and then to follow with the brush, rather 'frequently neglected areas as the ears, than to use both tools at the same time. face, eyes, Q.Ostrils, lips, sheath and dock. Curry gently, but brush vigorously. To 6. lJ7 ash and disinfect grooming brush, stand well away from the animal, equipment: Grooming equipment should keep a stiff arm and throw the weight be washed with warm water and soap of the body against the brush. Brush the often enough to keep it clean. It should hair in the direction of its natural be disinfected when necessary as a pre­ lay. Brush with care in the regions of caution against the spread of skin the flanks, between the fore and hind diseases.

22 Showing Light Horses There is no higher achievement than 6. Unless the judge requests other­ that of breeding and showing a champion wise, when called, the horse should first horse-an ideal animal-which has been be shown at a walk and then at a trot. produced through intelligent breeding To move the horse, work as follows: and then trained and fitted to perfection. A. Either reduce the length of the strap by a series of figure-S folds SHOWING TO HALTER or coils held in the right hand, or hold Breeding classes are shown "in hand," the upper part of the lead strap in the which means that they are exhibited at right hand and the folded or coiled end the halter, preferably, or when wearing in the left hand and lead from the left a bridle. The halter should be clean, pro­ side of the horse. If the horse is well perly adjusted, and fitted with a fresh­ mannered, give him 2 to 3 feet of lead looking leather or rope lead. If the horse so that he can keep his head, neck and is shown when wearing a bridle, the body in a straight line as he moves for­ leader should avoid jerking on the reins ward. But, keep the lead taut so that so hard that the horse's mouth will be there is continuous contact between the injured. leader and the horse. Do not look back. The guiding principles followed by B. Move the horse forward, smartly most successful horsemen when showing and briskly, in a straight line for 50 to to halter are as follows: 100 feet as directed, with the head up. 1. Train the horse early. C. Turn to ~he right. That is, turn 2. Groom the horse thoroughly. the horse away from the leader. If the horse is turned to the left, he is more apt 3. Dress neatly for the occasion. to step on the leader. Make the tum as 4. Enter the ring promptly and in effortless as possible and in as small a tandem order when the class is called. space as is practical. Oldtime draft horse­ Line up at the location requested by men, who have no peers in showing to the ringmaster or the judge, or, if direct­ halter, make the horse pivot around the ed, continue to move around the ring leader. When showing at the trot, bring in tandem order. the horse to a walk and ease slightly to 5. Stand the horse squarely on all the left before turning. four feet, and with the fore feet on D. Show some knee action-by the higher ground than the hind feet. The leader-when exhibiting the horse, with­ standing position of the horse should vary out overdoing it. according to the breed. For example, E. Trail with a if permitted or Arabians are not stretched, but American desired. Most light horses are given early Saddle horses are greatly stretched. Other schooling by trailing with the whip, but breeds are generally placed in a slightly custom decrees showing them without stretched position between these two ex­ this aid. If it is done, the trailer should tremes. When standing and facing the follow at a proper distance, keep the horse, hold the lead strap or rope in the animal moving in a straight line, avoid left hand, at least 10 to 12 inches from getting between the judge and the horse, the halter ring and so that the horse takes and always cross over in front of the a head-up position. horse at the turn.

23 7. After walking down about 50 feet 11. Keep calm, confident and collect­ and walking back, and trotting down ed. Remember that the nervous showman about 100 feet and trotting back (to save creates an unfavorable impression. time the judge may have each horse walk 12. Work in close partnership with down and trot back) set the horse up the animal. with reasonable promptness in frot;It of 13. Be courteous and respect the the judge. Then, after the judge has rights of other exhibitors. given a quick inspection, move to the location in the line indicated by the ring­ 14. Do not stand between the judge master or judge, observing the rules men­ and the horse. tioned in point 5 above. 15. Be a good sport. Win without 8. Keep the horse posed at all times. bragging and lose' without squealing. Keep one eye on the judge and the SHOWING IN other on the horse. PERFORMANCE CLASSES 9. When the judg~ signals to change The performance classes for horses are positions, back the horse, or, if there is so many and varied that it is not possible room, turn him to the rear of the line, to describe them in a bulletin of this and approach the new position from be­ type. Instead, see the official rule book hind. of the American Horse Show Association 10. Avoid letting the horse kick yrhen and the rules printed in the programs close to other horses. of locally approved horse shows.

Published and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the Washington State University Extension Service, C. A. Svinth, Director, and the U .S. Department of Agriculture. cooperating. 10m959