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THE GREAT

CALIFORNIA TRAIL

IN 1849

WAYSIDE NOTES OF AN ARGONAUT ,

By A. J. McCALL , Esq . BATH , N. Y.

REPRINTED FROM THE STEUBEN COURIER .

BATH , N. Y .: STEUBEN COURIER PRINT . 1882 . 5476

F 593 C71 M15 g 1882 a

A775542

COPYRIGHT 1882 . BY H. 9. HULL

1066 CALIFORNIA THE GREAT TRAIL IN 1849 .

CHAPTER 1 . to enter upon the excursion , its phazos To the Editor of The Courier : and the preparations made for it . Nothing but your earnest and persist . Starting from St. THE Joseph ROUTE , Mo. . , we pursued ent solicitation could have induced me to furnish you for publication the care on a north the Platt - westerly ; thence course up to that Fort river Kearney , fol ,. lessly written and almost illegible nutes lowing the north fork to the Sweet kept by me on my overland trip in 1849. Water , and up that stream to the South They contain no material facts or fig . Pass ; thence westerly by way of Fort ures beneficial to science or history . Bridger to Salt Lake , passing around They merely record the immediate per the head thereof ; thence westerly to sonal transactions of myself and asso- the source of the Humbolt , down that ciates , and such crude observations as river to the Sink ; thence west to the were naturally suggested . Being with Trucke river , and up the same to the out guide - books or charts , they were of use to us in keeping our reckoning while Bearsummit river of , a the tributary Nevadas of the , and Sacramento thence to . crossing the interminable plains . We I had no faith in the marvellous tales knew generally the distance between of golden nuggets shimmerics in the the principal points on our route . By mountain streams of the Pacific slope , noting daily our point of departure , and the number of miles traveled day by wildregarding visionaries them as or the shrewd more inventionspeculators of . day , as measured by the viometer at- I wrote several articles for the village tached one the wagons papers disparaging the reports and to of , we , , could , by a system of dead reckoning , especially discouraging the young and such as sailors use at sea , determine prox- inexperienced from taking the overland imately our position and progress . route , One of the articles concluded as Now , our experiences being of no follows : “ Nice young men should stay possible benefit to any one , the idea of “ at home ; none should think of going giving them to the public never oocur- but mechanics or laborers -men of red to me . I think you are mistaken in " nerve and iron - who desire to become their value , but it is your job , not mine . " citizens of the new country , or those They contain no thrilling incidents or " who love adventure and can spare the ** lgoving accidents by food and field " | " means . There is hardly a probability that add zest to and make attractive the that one in a thousand will make , in láles of travelers . To make them intel . " any event , his expenser . When the ligible to the general reader , it seems to matter is coolly considered , all must be necessary that I should point out the agree that the chances are a hundred rule traveleri and explain how I came to one against them . " THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

From my earliest recollection I had a THE ARGONAUTS . strong passion for travel and adventure . They poured in from every quarter I haul devoured with delight the fascinat- and hy erery kind of conveyance in ing stories of Irving and Cooper , and such numbers that it was sometimes longed to cross the great plains and difficult to find even camping grounds mountain chains of the continent and in the immediate vicinity oi the towns . mingle with the jolly Ruvers of the The fields and woods for miles around Wilderness . The times and circum- presented the appearance of a vast en stances aremed to be favorable to gratify campment . It was well that most of ibe dr am of years . these bold buccaneers came provided SEENES ON THE FRONTIER . with tents and camp furniture , for the I left Bath , in corupany with Dr. whole of Western Missouri could not James Read , on the 14th of March , 1819 , have furnished shelter and accoinmoda and arrived at St. Joseph on the 25th of tions for the immense multitude . April . That was our point of departure By far the largest part were organized and there our preparations were made . into caravans of from one to twenty The sights and scenes and phases of life teams , fully equipped and ready for the fo which presented theniselves ibere seem journey , and were only awaiting the worthy of mention . subsidence of the swollen streams and It is well known that the little , dingy , the growth of sufficieut grass for foraga . straggling towns on the Missouri , for a There were representatives of every na long period is the spring of the year , tionalty and country , but the “ Buck 1 assumed an importance that their sorry eyes ” and Hoosiers " the " Suckers " and and dilapitated appearance and their " Pikes , " the " Wolverines ” and “ Go remote and desolate situation would phers . " were largely in the ascendant . hardly warrant . They were the grand Perhaps so motley & gathering was Laavens of the great sea desert that swepl never seen before . Men of every race away between the valley of the Missis- and color , black and white , red and sippi and the remote Pacific . From brown , fiery spirits from the Sunny them , as soon as the snows disappeared South , calculating codgers from the and the plains put on their livery of rugged North , the gay and dashing blade green , were launched immense fleets of of fashion , the coarse , unkempt dweller wagon - ships , propelled by six or eight of the woods , black coats and black - legs , yoke of cattle , and freighted with rich lawyers and doctors , farmers and me cargoes for the Mexican markets or chanics , old and young , wives and With the household goods of nomadic mothers , maids and magdalens , the Yankees , bound for the sunny shores of wise and foolish , all lured by golden the Western Ocean . But all the stir dreams or wild adventure , were making and business of former years were noth- ready to try their mettle in a scamper ing sipared with the rush of 1849. of nearly a thousand leagues over the 1 Not Cristoval Colon , but an equally great plains . Tne lover of the grotes hair - brained adventurer , had discovered que , in one day , could have witnessed A new land abounding in the treasures scenes enough comical or grave , to have for wbich old Spais had sedulously employed his pen or pencil for years , bought ; and these frontier ports , like THEIR PREPARATIONS . Cadaz and Malaga , swarmed with a mot Bustle and confusion every where pre ly crew of " vagrom men " preparing to vailed . Some fretting themselves int embark on their perilous voyage to the a foam in fitting up their wagons new - found El Dorado . breaking in their teams , others who THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAİL IN 1849 .

up their knives and burnishing their fire- see his rider with his feet uppermost locks , -they were all wild with excite- sticking in the mire , and he knows how ment , bardly knowing whether they to get him there . He meekly and quietly were a foot or on horseback , crediting ambles along until he discovers directly every idle rumor , inne easy dupes of cun- hefore him a murky pool , and , as he ning swindlers . It was evident that the reacher its brink , he comes to a dead large number were out of their places halt , as if an air - break had brought him and green hands in the business before to . Of course the simple biped Astride them . After worlds of vexation and is hurled by his own momentum head infinite trouble their supplies were pur . first into the yielding mud . The ass chased and their equipments completed . inine joker , with a seeming look of Under the advice of some sage gracle , mute surprise , while there is a merry they laid in an over - supply of bacon , ſtwinkle in the far corner of his eye , adů flour and beans , and in addition thereto | with an hermaphroditic bray , a cross be every conceivable jim - crack and useless tween a laugh and cry , calls the founder , article that the wildest fancy could de- ing Jonah to dry land . Now he discovers vise or human ingenuity invent - gold- on one side of the way a tree with con . ometers , gold washers , pins and needles , venient limbs or an awning sufficiently brooms and brushes , ox shoes and low to sweep the rider from his back , 1 horse shoes , lasts and leather , glass and on the instant , he throws his long beads and hawks - bells , jumping.jacks ears to the opposite side , pretending to and jewsharps , rings and bracelets , be suddenly terrified at an old log or pocket mirrors and pocket - books , calico broken cart , and shies sidewise until the vests and boiled shirts . A full inventory limb or awning ruil either suspends his would occupy pages and furnish an as- burden Absalom - like between heaven Love sortment for a variety store . It was and earth , or hurls him to the ground . said that they would be bandy some Whenever he comes to a piece of the time and enable them to drive a profit- road or path especially rough and able trade with the unsophisticated broken , where any other animal would Indians . The wagons and pack animals cautiously pick his way , at the crack of were loaded to their utmost capacity . an ox - drivers whip or the snapping of mad , MULISH CHARACTERISTICS . a broken twig he dashes off like as if shot from a catapult , over the dan Now comes the start . It was equally gerous track , while his rider , Gilpin - like , ludicious with the preparation . The his hat and all his portables far behind , animals , like their owners , were green with arms and feet embraces the quad and wild and persisted in breaking - up rupeds neck and body , vi et armis et while being broken - in . The oxen and peuibus , expecting every moment to be mostly young and bred in the horses , hurled against a rock or over a precipice . new country , were not quite as docile as When the way becomes snioothe the their more gently reared kindred in the mule's fears seem at once to be calmed , . old . The mules were mostly unbroken , and he assuines his usually quiet and and , with all the perversity of their race , exhibited a viciousness that is charac- easy guit . No circus could furnish me half the amusement that I daily saw teristic . At one moment it was no go , here . at another , at the top of their speed ; at 111 one time shying at a shadow , at another COMMENCEMENT OF THE GRAND MARCH . dashing through an encampment . The From the last of April till the middle mule , with all his apparent stupidity , is of June , company after company took evidently a dry humorist . He likes to its departure from the frontier till the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

emigrant trail from the Missouri to Fort " endurance , that we may question the Laramie , at the foot of the Rocky records of any age for its equal . Stand Mountains , was one long line of pack -ing as I did at the closing stage of that mules , wagon trains , carts , and every " grand pilgrimage , the sight of these ad kind of vehicles and even wheelbarrows . " venturers as they came in day by day , It is true , as has been stated , that the " and the hearing of their stories , each rich medows of the Mimcha , the Blue of which had its own peculiar and sep and the Platt were settled for the time , arate character , had a more fascinating and a single traveler could have jour- --because mor real interest than the neyed for the space of a thousand miles tales of the glorious old travelers which as certain of his lodging and regular " so inapresses us in childhood . ” meals as if he were riding through the Different travelers see the same thing old agricultural districts of the Middle in a different light . Wbat is torment to • States . So be might even to the banks some is mere sport to others . They of the Sacramento . may go orer together the same ground The wandering tribes of Indians on and see the same sights , yet their ac the plains , the Pawnees , Sioux and Arap . I count of them would scàrcely show a re aboes , were alarmed and bewildered by ' semblance . Both are equally honest and the strange aparition . They gradually truthful , but they see entirely different withdrew from the vicinity of the trail sides . The character of the glass gives and betook themselves to grounds which color to the object . So the Notes " the former did not reach . All conflicts which will follow will be found some with them were thus avoiderd , and the what in conflict with Taylor's authori emigrants en joyed perfect immunity ties . from their thievish and hostile visita COMPANIONS AND PREPARATIONS . tions . On the way to St. Joseph we IT . AS BAYARD TAYLOR VIEWED fell in with Huron Brower , who Bayard Taylor , who was at Sac . had accidentally been separated from ramento in September of that year , when the company with which he start a large part of the overland emigration ed ; the son of an old and intimate arrived , gives the following vivid but friend , he was added to the party . It somewhat extravagant description of was most fortunate for all . He proved their march : a most genial and profitable associate . ** The vicissitudes through which these He knew well the value of horses , cat people had passed , the perils they en lle , wagons and their equipments . His countered and the wils they had en- skill as a manager and driver was not " dured , seem to me without precedent surpassed by veteran teamsters He was " in history . The story of thirty thou a man of mark among them . His ad ** rand souls accomplishing a journey ot vice and judgment were often sought and * inore than two thousand miles , through always respected . Where he led the way * a sa vage and but a partially explored all were willing to follow . In the mat " wilderness , crossing on their way two ter of borse flesh he was a connoisseur . * mountain chains equal to the Alps in In our search for a saddle - horse adapted * beigtut and asperity , besides broad tracts for the trip , we stumbled upon a yard * of burning desert , and plains of equal containing a large number , good , bud “ desolation , where a few patches of and indifferent , which were on sale . ** etunted shrubs and springs of brackish Ou entering we approached a white ** water were their only stay , has in it so Mexican mustang , the finest in the * much of heroism , of daring and sublime He reared and sported as if he had a THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

seen a white man ; we of course kept our mutual attachment sprang up that distance . As we were about to with throughout the long and tedious journey draw , the owner , a swarthy Mexican , never once faltered . In token of his gen made his appearance and walking up to tle parentage , he was christened " Royal the animal c.lmed his fears and proposed Charlie , " after the gallant Prince of that a sale . He recounted his good points , stat- | name who was hunted by British wolves ing that he was tough and hardy , thor- through heath and heather , mountain oughly accustomed to mountain travel , and glen , and at last driven from his having just been brought in by a trader own dear native land , from Chihuahua . We had all heard of Two yoke of faithful patient oxen the vices of the much abused mustang , were next purchased on reasonable terms , that he was wild and untamable , given and a wagon , admirable for strength to " bucking ” and all manner of mis- and lightness . Cattle were preferred for chief . With the Mexican's assistance , several reasons . They cost less , endure Brower mounted bim and coursed up more labor on less forage , are less liable and down the street . He moved to stray , more docile and more read easily and gracefully and showed spirit ily handled , and in a very long journey and metal , B. was bighly pleased with will outstrip animals of faster gait . The the trial and proposed a purchase . The stores consisted of flour , meal , ba other parties protested that in the dan . con , coffee , rice , beans , dried apples gerous journey before us we needed a and peaches , a keg of molasses , salt , pep trusty hack . We had no time to subdue per and saleratus . The kitchen furni such a vicious beast besides the mishaps ture was limited and siinple , a camp that might follow from the attempt . kettle , bake - kettle and frying - pan , tin B. saw well his worth and said he plates and cups , spoons and forks . would buy him at his own risk , and did , The munitions of war and defense and rode him to camp . The mustang was were guns and pistols , the hoe , axe and of gentle Andalusian blood with a soft spade . B. Dudley , his son - in - law , Eli Bid dark eye and the grace of an antelope . well , Hilliard M. Miller and Milburn , His progenitors were descendants of Arab stock brought into Spain from Africa , old acquaintances of ours similarly and thence transported to this country equipped were camped near us , and by a arrangement formed with us by that famous explorer De Soto and satisfactory abandoned on the plains of Mexico . one mess . For our mutual cunvenience Their sires may have been the fine we jointly purchased the material and manufactured with our own hands a coursers of the desert , that once bore Mahomet and his war - like disciples large and commodious wall tent . The across the sandy desert of Arabia . Doctor purchased in addition a few I was drawn toward hiin by a natural simples " to administer in case of ne sympathy on account of the toils and cessity , as antidotes for snake bites ; sufferings he had evidently undergone “ The snake in the glass my lads . ” Our from cruel masters and savage beasts . dress was in character ; white felt hats He was sadly marked and marred by with broad wrims , and stout boots with many brands and horrible scars , said to high tops . I was most fortunate in ob have been the work of timber wolves . taining a hunter's suit of buckskin - In I therefore approached him with gentle dian tan . It was softer than velvet , words and a peace offering of corn and lighter than duck , and impervious to crackers , of which he was fond . It was cold or heat . There was neither wear not long before the highest confidence or tear to it . In addition I luckily ex was established between us and a changed a cloth cloak for an infantry 8 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

urer - coat , with cape and ample sleeves , I the streets I found parties who , either the skirts reaching to the feet . It longing for the comforts of home , or 1 was of infinite service at night watches , having a realizing sense of what the proof against wind and rain and an outcome would be , were disposing of swered admirably for a robe - de - nuit . their effects preparatory to their re Folding the dra pery of its skirts about turn . As I passed a wagon the owner him , one could lie down to pleasant was exhibiting a rifle - pistol and a large dreams where night overtook hira . Be- bowie -knife with a belt and sheath . I sides each was provided with blankets , thought the knife would be handy for a canteen and a laversack . the Doctor in case an amputation was necessary . So I asked the price and CHAPTER II . was told $ 4 . I said I would take them SCENES IN TOWN - JUSTICE - GOING TO THE and handed up the money . A son of the MILL - STORN - THE MESS ORGANIZA- Green Isle was also looking at them and TION -- FLARE UP . had the pistol in his band and refused “ Hark to the sound ! to hand it over , saying he intended to 1 Without a trump , without a drum , buy it . The owner said , “ You are too The wildered , hungry inillions come Along the echoing ground ! " late ; it is sold , ” and demanded the de livery . Quite a war of words followed JOSEPH Mo. Monday April much to my amusement ST . , , 30 , . I finally 1849.- We are settled down to camp life , walked away with my prize . That and I take to it quite naturally . We poor wight learned one thing that in were in peed of a canvas cover to our this fast country while he is haggling wagon , and I set out in search of one about the price some one will step in this morning . I was informed that one and take the cake . could be obtained at a certain place in on the sidewalk near the hotel the village . I went thither and was I saw an earnest group in conver greatly saddened by what I heard . Out sation and I was soon in the midst . I of a family of six , five had died sudden- ! learned that a young man present , ly within a few days . The sole sur . I who seemed to be in deep distress , had vivor , a young man , was disposing of fallen into the hands of an old swindler his effects preparatory to a removal ( at least he had gray hairs . ) The old from that house of death . I made en . man had been trusted with the means quiry as to the source of the disease , to buy a wagon and team and was to and was referred to an open well conduct his employer to the Pacific . hard by the stomp that was supposed ! The young man had just learned that to contain the poisonous malaria that the villain , with the aid of con ! ederales , brought on this dreadful calamity . I was trying to dispose of the property looked into its cool depths and upon its and skip . There was little chance for ca ystal waters and could see nothing legal redress , besides it was too tedious . therein . The cholera is said to be fol . Everyone who heard the young stran lowing the human ride up the great riv . gers story , at once embraced his cause . ers of the west and this may be the It was proposed immediately to appeal avant - couriere of that fell disease . to Judge Lynch . A small , light built But so it is ; the dart of the insatiate man in conversation with me , observed archer is ofton concealed in the balmy a large , rough - looking customer listen breath or the cooling draught . ing to us , and suspecting him to be a As soon as my business was completed confederate made some damaging rys I I hurried away from that place of sor . mark for his especial benefit . The bu row . In my perambulations through I ly advanced as if about to deal a b ! THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 9

for the offensive words , demanding desert we could carry a sufficient sup that they be taken back . The plucky little ply to sustain us until we could reach a fellow , so far from quailing before his sheltering haven . stout adversary , coolly and defiantly , The desired article could not be pur as he placed his hand upon his hip , chased in the markets and I was de retorted , " If you strike me , it will be puted to obtain it . I mounted Charley the last man you ever strike ! ” Per . and set out after dinner in search of fectly cowed , the vagabond beat a re- corn among the scattered farmers , and treat amid the loud buzzas of the inter- after some little trouble procured from ested crowd . The old villain saw , at a one a bushel and a half of shelled glance that he was in the hands of a corn , threw the bag on my horse and jury of the people , who could neither be started for the mill some tive miles dis bullied nor bought , and came down at tant . It was not the first time , simi . once and restored the property to its larly equipped , I had ridden to mill . The owner . The simplicity and weakness road was in a terrible condition , the of the youth was the source of his great mud was in many places knee deep and strength , and carried him through tri- it required po little exertion for Char . umphantly , where one of greater force ley lo plough through , but he was up to and ability would have failed . the task . It was late in the afternoon “ Thrice is he armed that bath his quarrel just ! " when I reached the little log mill , with Tuesday , May 1. — The sun rose bright a single run of stone . The miller , a and clear , the birds are singing , the kindly man , was willing to grind my grass is springing and all the world is grist but he had no means to roast my love and May . " We are nearly ready ; Corn . He took me to his humble dwell . the tent is finished and all that is needed ing , consisting of a single room with a now is the assurance that the grass has broad fireplace and an upper loft , and sufficient growth to furnish forage . It presented me to his wife . The good is reported that a few companies have dame , a right pleasant little woman , folded their tents and stolen away , so as consented with my assistance to pop the to get ahead of the waiting crowd , hav . grain . The fire was enlarged and all ing taken a supply of corn to last them the pots and pans she could command until there is sufficient feed . were soon over it and the task begun . The wild - rovers over western desert It was ten o'clock before the work was plains , where game is scarce and wood half done . Weary with the day's labor , unattainable to cook their food and I retired to my couch beneath the where fires . eren , would furnish a clue rafters of the loft , when a terrible thun to the savages on their trail , have found der storm , which had been threatening , a most excellent and nourishing food in burst upon us , with wind , lightning and crushed roasted corn , called by the Mexi- rain . The defiance of Lear to the ele cans pinola . It is light and easily carried . ments came vividly to mind . It is toothsome , al ways ready to be eaten , " Rumble thy belly full ! spit , fire : spout , rain ! and when mixed in a cup of cool wa- Blow , wind , and crack your cheeks . ter , slightly sweetened and eaten with a I was snug and comfortable what spoon , it is a most delicious beverage need I care . The pouring rain and rat and as substantial and nourishing a diet tling thunder lulled me w sweet repose . as ever entered the mouth of a tired and Wednesday , May 2 .-- I arose betinies ; hungry wayfarer , It was decided in the storm had cleared away and no evi . council that we would have a supply of dence of the night's commotion was vis this all inportant edible . In case we ible , except the standing pools and rook . should be cast away or stranded in tireling vapors . 10 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

After the morning meal , work was and that we might obtain a more speedy resumed upon the unfinished corn , which traneit . It was just that distance out was in due time finished and in the hop- of our way . per . " The mills of the gods grind , Weil knowing that where there were slowly , " it is said . “ but surely . ” From ' so many pardners and joint owners the time consumed , I thought this little there was likely to be conflict or dis . Missour mill was one of them . The job putes as to who should perform such was well done and the scores settled and such services , I suggested a simple satisfactorily with miller and maid , the plan of organization for our mess , which precious burden thrown across the sad- was unanimously adopted . Under dle and with a heartfelt warm adieu , I it , Dudley , on account of his mounted my horse and bied a vay to seniority , was made Chief of the camp . The roads were not improved cuisine - was charged with the care of by last night's rain . My companions , the provisions and cooking the same , notwithstanding the discomforts of the and by virtue of his office determined storm , were not at all dampened in and fixed the place for camping , and spirits , and materially forwarded the made requisitions upon the orderlies for work of preparation . It was necessary wood and water , and in all those matters for us to get over the Missouri with our his commands were to be implicitly teams and plunder . The ferries were obeyed ; in fine , he “ ruled the roast or few and rude affairs , and the crowds roost . " Bidwell and Brower were ap rushing over them immense . Teams pointed masters of the horses and oxen . stood in line for days awaiting their They were charged with the care and tum . We had agreed with several com - ' control of them and were to drive and panies from Ohio and Wisconsin to manage them as their own , determine rendezvous at the lova Mission , about who should sleep in or erter the wagons twenty - five miles west of the river , and and what should be carried in them , there organize a grand varavan for mu . when the beasts should be harnessed and tual assistance and protection . They where they should be grazed . The bal . had previously engaged an old and cel . ance of the mess , of which I was a bum ebrated Indian trader , one Antonio Ru . ble member , formed the corps of sap bedean , as a guide and general adviser . pers and miners , privates and orderlies , It was said that be was going out with who were without question to obey all his family and would be of great service orders issued by the respective chiefs , to us . The compensation required was pitch and strike the tent , build the fires , comparatively trifling . gather the wood and procure water , Thursday , May 8. - Our preparations herd the cattle and do all the general are nearly completed . The flour and duty . I was well aware that sole au bacou are properly packed in the wagon , thority , bowever arbitrary it might be , our bags and buses stowed away , and a was better than none . . If we bavl no general inspection made of our stores , ' appeal from unreasonable commands of The weather became exceedingly warm our superiors , we could at least swear at toward mid - day , and everything be - them - some knew how to do it . There tokens • sturm . Great loaded wains was no fear of writs or summonses for and long files of horses and mules are contempt or slander , rushing for the ferries . We had re- Friday , May 4. -The expected storm solved quietly to push up the river seven came last night , and this morning every iniles to a little ferry at Savannah Land . thing is damp and uncomfortable and ing , thinking that few were aware of it the camp wears a sorry look . A little THE CALIFORNIA GREAT TRAIL IN 1849 . 11

unpleasantness occurred between two CHAPTER III . hasty spirits of the mess . An intimacy sprang up between the Dr. and a lawyer ' THE START FOR THE FERRY - TEAM DE by the name of Grice , from Columbiana LAYED - LONG DELAY UNEXPECTEDLY AT THE FERRY Co. , Ohio . As we had room for another , MEET AN OLD FRIEND THE FERRY - HOW WE GOT OVER - RAPID he had proposed to leave his Ohio friends and travel with us . He was really a WORK OVER AT LAST CHARLEY valuable acquisition in our preparations . BREAKS HIS TETHER AND IS FREE AGAIN He was , I doubt not , more skillful and -MADE THE FIRST CAMP - LUCKY CAP TURE - WOLF CRKEK - BAD CROSSING better versed in arranging little con trivarces for our comfort and conve THE FRENCHMAN - IMPROVISED BRIDGE nience than in managing an intricate -REACH THE RENDEZVOUS — THE INDI and crooked case . He was really clever , AN AGENCY . in the English sense , in all that pertained to campaigning , but like all men of “ These are the gardens of the Desert , these light weight he was exceedingly testy . The unshori . fields , boundless and beautiful , For which the speech of England has no name The Doctor , who disregarded that trait The Praires . Lo ! they stand that is esteemed next to godliness , In airy undulations , far away , placed in the provision chest a bottle of As if the Ocean , in his gentlest swells , his vile medicine . Grice ' threw it out Stood still , with all his rounded billows fixed And motionless forever . " and said it shouldn't be there . The Doctor replaced it and insisted that it Saturday , May 5. - Up betimes , weath should . The consequences were , that a er fine , the morning meal eaten hur flare - up took place and Grice gave notice riedly , the tent struck and our wagons of his intention to withdraw from the loaded up for a start to the ferry . I company , and did . I regretted to part mounted Charley and rode over to the with so valuable a member , bat I saw town to deposit our letters and get the that two such fiery spirits could not last mail . Being in no hurry I stopped long maintain fraternal relations . This longer than I bad intended to gossip trifling affair vividly called to mind this with new made friends , and see the quatrain little : amusing sights . I supposed our teams h4d got well under way , and made no ** One stormy night ' observations of the trail leading to our Two little kittens began to quarrel and then to fight You shan't have that mouse ( meow ) said the camping place , but leisurely jogged on larger one , in company with some wayfarers . It I will have that mouse ( meow ) said the smaller was high noon and no familiar wagons one , and thus the quarrel begun . " appeared , so I concluded I had passed the junction of the roads , before they Many believe that cats are a sort of bad arrived . So I kept on to Savannah electrical barometer , indicating a com- ' and found accommodations at a snug ing or passing storm . Is it not possible log house near the landing with a neat that some of the genus homo , with fe- and pleasant fanrily . I walked down to line proclivities , have like attributes ? the ferry and found there a long line of teams awaiting passage and more com Notwithstanding the cold wind and ing . It was clear that others were as driving rain , crowds of wagons are roll- sharp as we were . Night came on and ing through the mud . If it should clear no teams . I knew the roads were terri by morning we haver - to pull out bly cut up , and that green oxen as well for the Savannah as drivers make slow progress , so I bor . 12 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

rowed no trouble on their account , but winding way to the golden streams of returned to my chamber to repose on a Pactolus . We passed a pleasar t even soft feather bed between sweet , clean ing together and it was resolved that we 81 sheets , the last I could possibly hope would bring his team into the line . to enjoy for months and possibly for : years . “ As he thinketh so is he . " The Monday May 7. - The ferry was sim philosophy that teaches that everything ply a crazy flat boat managed by nearly will be provided for those who are con as crazy a Charon from Pike Co. , Mo. tent . how consoling and how true ! with long unkempt hair , clad in a tow shirt and butternut breeches held in place Sunday , May 6. - The bright rays of by knit suspenders , hatless and bootless , D the morning sun peered into my cham- slower than time and equally implaca ber and aroused me from my slumbers . ble . The craft was towed up the wild After breakfast , on walking to the gate , and rapid stream a sufficient distance I kwa familiar face approaching . It by a rope drawn by oxen and then with was the Doctor , all booted and belted , the aid of oars and the current was shot with his long knife in its scabbard . He over to the landing place . This was a slow reported that the teams were only a job , and was rendered still slower by short distance back . In starting ther , the constantly clamoring crowd , balg . had mut with unavoidable delays and ering the dazed ferry - man . I saw at had missed their way , and then the roads once the situation . The old man had were so heavy that they found it impos- undertaken more than he had counted sible to reach the ferry , and had camped on . He was already worked aſroost ne a mile or so back . I had passed before to death under excitement , and I was no they had reached the main road . The apprehensive that in his bewilderment terms soon came up and took their place he might jump overboard or send his boat th in the line of wagons waiting for their adrift to get rid of these pesky Yankees , He turn . All day long the drivers stood by ' and we should be left hopeless on this their cattle closing up the gap as fast as , side of Jordan . To those impatient it was made . At nightfall we counted of the delay I said , “ If you expect to the only 80 wagons ahead . The ferı yman get over this river in any reasonable shut down and all along the line they lime , we must take this business into Di were preparing to turn out their cattle our own hands , set adrift ihe slow mov for the night . We observed one or two ing steers and man the ropes one and teams to the right of us , and without the all . ” It was done on the instant . A hun , line , quietly coming up under the cover dred strong arms drew the old hulk to of some timber , apparently to cut us off the landing in a twinkling . The team heyat and gut shead . The Doctor , who was and wagon was hustled on . I jumped the fighting man of our host , dashed aboard with two stout oarsmen , and s out with blood in his eye to check the away we shot to the opposite shore . I intruders . He came back at once pla- bade the old man to sit down and be cated and whispered . All right . They quiet , he should be paid all the same . are New Yorkers ; go and see them . “ I He squatted on the gun wale with his went at once and found they were pre- chin resting on bis bony bands in paring simply to camp , and were un- wild amazement . This process was bitching tbeir teams for the night . The continued until our teams and plunder tirst man that I met was W. W. Fare were landed on the opposite shore . An . well , of Morrisville , a very old friend . glo - Americans take to organized effort Of course the meeting was as happy as with wonderful instinct . It is only it was surprising . He too was on his necessary for some one to sound the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 13 note . This makes them the master spir- | when within the toils , that resistance is its of the world . Our teams were vain and only tightens the chain . Then bitched up and Chariey was tied behind to yield gracefully is the part of wisdom . the wagon and started over the bot . One dreaded obstacle in our journey had tomto find a camping place . I been successfully overcome . We had waited awhile to settle for the ferriage . i crossed the Rubicon . The raging Mis and render assistance to those who had souri was behind us , our tent was puched aided us so heartily and so cheerfully . in Indian Territory . Wood being plenty , It being near night - fall I hurried on and we had a rousing camp fire blazing , and found my friends encamped in a pleas . all gathered arcund , cheerfully rehears ant grove about a mile from the ſerry.ing the adventures of a busy day . But they were in some tribulation . In 1 Tuesday , May 8. — Breakfast over , we crossing a slough the wagon made a loaded up , and at 7 o'clock moved on Jurch and Charley's halter broke and left leisurely , being in no particular hurry him free as in his youth upon the open now , over a vast rolling prairie toward glade . Every effort to catch him was the main trail leading to the Indian unavailing . Of course none knew how Mission . The morning was glorious und to throw a lariat , and they concluded he the scenery before us charming . One was forever losi to vs. However when who has never experienced it can hard they left him to himself and moved on , ly appreciate the unbounded pleasure he followed them to where they had en- under the broad sky , upon the free camped , and commenced quietly feeding earth , when relieved from the conven with the cattle and another horse be- tionalites of social life . The wild shout , longing to our party . When I arrived I the boisterous laugh comes welling up tried soft words and kind persuasion , but from the pent up bosom like a bursting in vain . When I was alınost near torrent . Grave men become boys again . enough to lay my hand upon his mane he Witnessing this natural exuberance of would turn me the cold shoulder . Then spirits called to memory an incident oc all hands turned out and tried to encircle ' curring in my youthful days . A family him . He was too sharp for that . Then containing six wild , rollicking boys , who Brower devised a plan which proved suc- ! were inclined to whoop and yell like 80 eessful . He took a long bed cord , made many untamed savages , out of respect a running noose in it , and laid it down or fear of a pious lady living near , on in the grass trailing to a log upon which the Sabbath , much against their nature , he seated himself , as il simply to observe kept passively quiet . On the first Sab . the situation . Knowing where the bath after the family had taken up their noose lay concealed , one of the party ' abode in the woods " p Post Creek , carefully drove the horses toward the these roystering blades made the very spot . When it was reached B. drew welkin ring with their wild halloos , and the rope taut and caught Charley by the when remonstrated with by their par right hind foot . He merely shook it to , ents , said that now they could shout as see if it was fast and when he found it so loud as they pleased , for Mrs. -— could he made no demonstration whatever , ' not hear them . Our crowd acted under but resumed his feeding as much as to the same impulses . We sing of say , “ You have me , I yie ! d . ” Then B. " The sea , the sea , the open sea . walked right up to him and put on the The broad , the boundless and the free . " lariat and picketed him . But it does not stir in me , the same He showed more horse - sense than wild delight as a scamper on a generous many inen l " of ; of who should know , steed over these green slopes . As we THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

journeyed on , in whatever direction the found that they , together wit , those be eye was cast , a white - topped craft could hind them , had already taken in the sit be seen rolling over the green billows . , uation and had resolved to open a pas The whole country around us seemed to sage for themselves . They at once turned be alive with moving trains . At two aside to the creek , and sought a favor o'clock we cumped Dear å spring upon able point . At once a hundred strong the grassy plain . arms were at work . Two trees were cut and thrown paraliel across to the oppo Wednesduy , May 8. - We were on the site bank , and were covered with poles , march by 6 o'clock , and soon siruck brush and dirt , forming a complete Wolf Creek , a small stream flowing bridge . In the mean time others were northerly into the Missouri . It was at work with pick and shovel , smoothing skirted with tine groves of timber . We a way up the steep bank on the opposite followed the same up until about 10 side sufficient for their exit . As soon as o'clock , when we came to a balt behind the work was done , the wagon drawn a bolid column of at least a hundred by a single yoke of oxen was driven on to wapons , hich were delays by the diffi the rude pintown , when a stout cable culty in crossing the stream . I went was fastened to the tongue and seized by furward to the ford . I founu , owing to as many scores of brawny bands as could the miry nature of the soli and the sleep " . lay hold of the same , rushing the wagon ness of the banks , that is c'rsaing * as and oxun across the bridge and up the made with the greatest dirtieulty and at sterp bank with a will . The process bike risk w the wagens , consuming no was repeated until the wagons were litude time . I started back tw report the safely planted upon the opposite shore . condition of attairs , when I was hailed So much for determination and com by a pprsou in appareat di - tress , who bined effort . There is no difficulty that proved to be an old Frenchman I had nel at St. Jo . He informed me in the cannot thus be surely overcome . It be excited mauner of his race , that while ing near pight - fall when our labors were halted he turned out of the live to give completed , we pitched our tents upon the bluff , well satisfied with the day's his cattle drink and those in the rear had work . closed up the column , He was in great tribulation and might be delayed for Thursday , May10 . Early in the forenoou boun if not for days , and begred my we reached the Ageney and Iowa Diis assistance . I at once made an appeal tu sion , the place of riendezvous agreed up the drivers near to open a place for the vb . It was situated upon a high , rolling stranger in a strange land , a countryman prairie with here and there iveautiful of Lafavette , who aided us'in our peril . groves of timnir marking the water I said , " Is it possible that any American courses . It must be a most charming will perniit a cinzen of France to suffer place in the summer . There was a large wrong or injustice on our svil ? " Some farm , with vuitable buildings , cultivated Here draf to my earnest app - al in his by the agent for the benefit of the In bu hall , and some were abusive , but the dians . The corn and other growing heart of a noble Kentuckiin was touch- crops looked fine . There was also a small ed . lle generously held his team back sull - r's store and a large missionary and allowed the Frenchman to drive in school for the care and instruction of before bim . " Merci ! Merci ! Monsieur . " Inuian youth . Just then the place pre followed me from the grateful French- sented the appearance of a great cattle man , as I hurriediy left . fair . Carriages and wagons dotted the Mhen I reached my companions , I plain , and thousands of cattle and horses THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 15

were grazing in every direction . Be- ed and subject to all the vicissitudes of sides , there was a constantly moving a wandering vagabond life . Let the stream of covered wagons and mounted humanitarians , who are promoting inis borsemen . Few could have imagined sionary enterprises , establish comfort sueh a rush , and many , alarmed at the able homes ' ike this through New Eng numbers , hail sold out and were return- lani and the Middle States ( where there ing homeward . I saw some quite com- lon “ race prejudice ) for these wild fawas fortable covered vehicles , carrying wom- of the desert , where they coulů be nour en and children , intelligent and deli- ished and reared , and by the pressure of cate - looking ladies among them , show- a high civilization be tamed and pre ing a purpose to settle where they go . veuted from relapsing into barbarism . In the afternoon I visited the Presby . By that means they would , without terian missionary establishment . It doubt , grow up useful and valuabie citi was a large and comrodious brick build- zens . It is the only way that any por ing of three stories , presenting a decid- tive of the red race can be preserved . edly pleasant and cheerful appearance Three hundred years of persistent effort in the midst of this green plain . The have shown conclusively that the race superintendent in charge , a clergyman , can not be civilized while their tribal re was rery polite in showing me through lations continue , and that while they do , the establishment . He gave me a ful ! an irrepressible corifliet must prevail , account of the mission , and had the boys , with gréat sacritice of life and property sing for me some of their hymns , in to the white , and result in the wial ex their native tongue . They seemed to termination of the red man . Ile would 61 * be from eight to twelve years old , clean , be regarded a simpleton who propos well - clad and bright in appearance . rd to tame a herd of wild bulalo by They were cheerful and happy . I sat - driving among them a few domesticated and chatted with them for some time , onee . Yet the same thing has been and Their complexion was somewhat dusky , is still tried with Indians . The bloody but not so niuch so as the old bucks . I massacres at Cherry Valley and Wyom was especially struck with a beautiful ing , plotted and planned by the ' mon . little fellow who was no darker than ster Brandt , " highly educated in arts many children to be seen on the streets and arms by while men , and for a long of an Eastern village . I had some doubts time courted and flattered by the most as to his paternity , and inquired of the refined and cultivated society of New clergyman . He said he was a full - blood . England , shows the benefits of this sys . ed Blackfoot , picked up by some traders tem of treatment . It is the old story of and brought to the mission , when quita warming the fronen serpent . The ser . young , and then was much darker ; but pent's natural propensity is to bite the cleanliness and good living had wrought Indian's to kill . ' lhe only way to sup . the change in him . As I looked upon ress their natural instincts and save their that group of laughing , playful fellows , lives is to deprive them of the power to I thought I discovered a sure and happy gratify them . Coddling in warm solution of the vexed Indian question . bosoms and college diplomas won't do Perhaps some of these tawny sons had it . I know many Indians that have been been stolen from their parents . It was taken early from their parents by adop .. fortunate for them . They were none tion or purchase , and have grown up the less fortunate in finding se romtort . tireful and worthy members of society . able and luxurious a bona 40142 Most of the tribes would gladly exchange times preferable to the their surplus children for horses , guns wam where they were l and biankels , and think they were driv . 16 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

ing a good bargain . How much more the benefit of the Ionas in this vicinity . economical for the goveroment to gath . He said he had little hopes of the general er in these suffering waifs and distribute improvement of the natives . They them among those poor ladies who are were naturally so indolent and had such 80 anxious w do missionary work , than a sirong propensity for intoxicating bev in kreping up a great military establish - erages ; worthless fellows would supply ment and hordes of worthless , thieving thein in spite of all his efforts to pre agents and traders , who , for the sake of vent it . I saw many Indians loitering gain , are glad to hear of the massacre of listlessly about the store ; amosg them I innocent women and children , because observed an aged one , with an intelli it brings on a war as a matter of course , ' gent face , resembling very much that and consequen : ly a large expenditure of of the famous Red Jacket , a bigh fore money . beaj and a prominent and finely chiseled uore . He had evidently been a person CHAPTER IV . of some note , for he bore upon his INDIAN AGENCY -INDIAN WARDS -GRAND breast a silver medal of President Madi OUMPANIES - HEALTH AND HARD WORK sun , bestowed for services rendered or -XO XEWSPAPERS - THE ROBIDACX at some treaty . TRAIN - ITS ORGANIZATION - THE ELEC- ! Later in the afternoon I visited the TION OF OFFICERS - ITS GRAND MARCH - encampments of a number of compan SC'EXES BY THE WAY ITS FIRST EN- , ies in our neighburbood , bearing high le CAMPMENT – THE CORRAL - THE HERDS- sounding titles , thoroughly organized , MEN AND GUARDS -AN ALARM - THE : wearivg flashy uniforms and fully 1 ARRIVAL OF THE GUIDE , ANTONIO ROBI- equipped in true military style , having DAI'I . banners and music , and numbering six * Oh , we'll soon be thar ' or seventy men each . Some of these la the land of gold , ty Through the forest oli , cura panies were supplied with mule and Oer the mountang cold , horse teams and expected to complete With sparits bold - the journey in ninety days . They were Oh we come , we ome composed chiefly of young men and And we'll soon be ther . Gee up Bolly ! whoo , up whoo haw ! " were very demonstrative - full of noise - Pike CountAChorus . and glee . Friday , May 11. - After a long search , The dwellers in towns , pent up in we found the Onio and Wisconsin Coro : offices and toiling in shops , koow little pavirs , with which we were to travel , , of the exhileration and buoyancy of a encamped a little distance east of the wild out.door life . Hard work and Agency , by a copse of wood near a rough fare bring health and sweeten spring -- a most delightful situation . We repose No wonder these verdant ad at once removed our wagons and tent venturers were joyous and happy . to the place . Robidaux . the guide , bad : It was more than a week since I bad not yet come up , and the men were very looked upon the welcome page of a impatient , being anxious to improve the newspaper . I longed for authentic beauuſul weather , as well as to get news from the world left behind : I ahead of the imniense throng . In the made diligent enquiries at the post and afternoon I visited the sutler's store and among the newly arrived emigrants , but post office to deposit a letter , and there no paper could I find . I experienced met the Sub - Agent , and bad a long and the wint of a mental stimulant , wholly pleasant interview with him . He had the result of habit , that could not be supa charge of the large farın , cultivated for plied , and felt very much as the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 17 toper , accustomed to his morning dram , | Wisconsin company , being next , camp when sent up for six months , without master ; and the New Yorkers , the wag . any hope of elief , except such as time on -master . alone could bring . ! Capt . King of Dayton , O. , an officer in the Mexican war , was named for first Saturday , May 12. - All those who position ; Dr. Budden , of Hazle Green , were to travel together under the guid- Wis . , for the second ; and Eli Bidwell , ance of Antonio Robidaux , met in sol- of Bath , N. Y. , for the third . This was emn council át 12 m . , by appointment , just what we desired ; it gave our teams to perfect their organization . They the head of the column , the most desir numbered one hundred and twenty - five able place to travel ; we would be free representative men , embracing all the from dust and compulsory stoppages and professions , farmers , mechanics and could pass the crossings before they merchants . They may have been a lit- were much cut up . The proceedings tle luny on one subject , but evidently were ratified by a unanimous vote . were respectable and intelligent . They It was further resolved that the train had thirty - five wagons , with from two should move the next morning at seven to four yoke of oxen to each ; besides a o'clock , even , if the guide did not make few horses for the saddle . A standing his appearance . By way of testing the chairman was chosen to preside over sentiments of the company , and out of their deliberations . On motion , a com- respect to a clergyman and , some dea mittee of three was appointed to draft cons with us , I made a motiun , “ That a plan of organization . The committee hereafter , except in case of urgent neces retired to a tent for the purpose of dis- sity , the train shall rest on the seventh charging the duty imposed . After a day of the week , " at the same time brief absence , the committee appeared stating , that the experience of previous and reported the following plan : travelers upon the plains had been , that 1st . That the organization shall be a rest of one day in seven was of the designated as the “ Robidaux Train . ” greatest importance to preserve the 20. - That there shall be chosen a strength and endurance of the animals captain , with the usual powers of such and men , and make sure and rapid pro officers ; all to be subject to his orders . ' gress ; that a team , upon a stretch of a He was authorized to call future meet- thousand miles , would sooner accom . ings , preside at them and appoint the plish it by traveling six days in the train crier to give notice of thereof . week instead of seven consecutively . 30. - A camp -master , whose duty To the inexperienced this seemed prepos was to select the camping ground and terous ; my proposition failed , the repre arrange the plan of the encampment . sentatives froin my own state voting 4th . --A wagon -master , to lead the against it . train , arrange the order of march , select the road and see that the crossings of Sunday , May 13. --The skies were the streams and sloughs were in proper bright . The morning meal was hurried condition and safe . ly eaten , the last pin was purchased and The plan was unanimously adopt- the farewell missive deposited with the ed . For the sake of avoiding any sec . post . The tents were struck and the tional feeling that might grow out of a teams tackled up . “ All ready ! " was contest for the election of these officers , shouted by the drivers . Our captain a motion was made 9 Hunted that gave the order to march . The great the Ohio men , bein se ma- wagons with their long teams rolled into jority , should na the line amid loud shouts and the cracking 18 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

of innumerable whips , and the grand a show - fair or barbacue , rather than Robidaux Train mored forward . ' Hilar . the commencement of a hap - hazard ity reigned every w bere . Fuming and journey of two thousand miles over fretting sersed in be at an end . In fine , mountain and river , desert and plain . I all seemed to feel as if their golden hopes reflected that four months of constant were about to be realized , that in a very travel would calm these exuberant short time they would be rolling in the spirits , and make these giddy adventures treasures of untold wealth . No young- as staid as ancient sages . As I saw them sters , setting out on their first excursion , ' there so gey and joyous , I was saddened ever manifested more delight . with the thought of the change that We were not alone on this morning , would most likely come over the spirit march , whers er we looked , as far as we of their dreams , and the suffering and could see , before us and behind as , simi . ' dis appointment to which they were lar trains were moring , and the way was doomed . erowded with out - riders and foot - men With a brief balt at noon , we moved Long lines of gaily dressed cavaliers , ' on till five , when we reached the camp belonging to some crack city company , ing ground selected by the camp - master , with burnished brands and glittering near a small branch , where wood and sabres , in all the pride and pomp of water were at band . That officer took military display , went dashing by : a position on the ground , and ordered Loaded wine , ac fashy as paint and the wagon - masier to drive his wagon to lettering could make them , drawn by the spot . He then directed each wagon countless yoke of fat oxrn , decorated followir.g to be driven to the right and with flags and streaners , rolled over tle left alternately , and so far forward that swells and diped into the hollows . The the hind wheels of the foremost just leud cry of the drivers “ . Roll up . " “ Roll lap the fore wheels of the wagon be up . " ' • H'o haw . " " and the ear - spliting hind , and so expanding and contracting crack of their mammoth goaus , formed unt il a space was enclosed in a horseshoe a sort of interlu le to the merry songs of form . Its size depended upon the num the idlers and supernumeraries , the ber of wagons . It is named in plains burden of which was : parla nce the corral . In it the animals * Oh Susana don't you cry for ine , of the train were driven at night and * 1 su bound for California , picketed to prevent them from straying " With my wash bowl on ing knee , or being stampeded . This arrangement " I'se come o'er the sea from Swisland a of the wagons also furnished protection stranger , & c . , and in case of an attack . At night the regular " Oh poor Lucy Neal , & c . detail for herdsmen and night guard en At noou - tide as I reclined upon a tered upon their duties and the counter grassy knoll , while grazing my benutiful siga was given out . The herdsmen were steed and watching this moveing buman relieved when the cattle were driven in tide , the vision of DeSoto's magnificent and picketed . The guard was relieved embarcation at Malaga for the land of every three hours . We had a tent for gold and flowers three hundred years the purpose , in which the guard assemb . ago , his weary wanderings through led at night fall under the orders of a southern marshes and thickets with his captain , broken and suffering followers , bis sad During the day we had passed a large end and secret buriel , seemed to rise be i number of companies , encamped eithi fore me . The real scene was more like for rest or on account of conscient some great ovation or grand turnout at : scruples . Many of our men though ! THE GREAT CAL IFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 19

by that days travel we had got the ad- , its way . The country through which vance of a considerable crowd . Our cat- we had passed was a rolling plain , tle were fresh , and the viameter showed destitute of timber except along the we had made fourteen miles at the going water - courses . Our guide had not yet down of the sun . Camp - fires gleamed in come up and some feared he had given every direction around us and yet a us the slip . general quiet prevailed . Our domine , Our mess made themselves merry at in the evening , made a visit to a neigbor- my expense , having heard that ing camp and on his return was challeng . lour Ohio friends had taken me for a ed by the guard and bad forgutten the clergyman , and congratulated them . countersign . The guard kept him out selves upon the prospect of havivg in the cold for an hour until he could stated preaching on the way . It is an report to headquarters and get permis . ' old saying , “ appearances are often de . sion to pass him in . ceitful . " Many seem to think that a black coat and white necktie , a smooth Monday , May 14. - A furious rain face and heavenly tone , constitute the storm came down upon us about day . substance as well as the outward sy m . light . Notwithstanding , we burried up buls of a teacher of divine truth , instead our departure in hopes of reaching the “ of one in whom the rlements are so Big Blue river before night , which was mixed as to give the world assurance of reported fifteen miles distant . a MAN . " teams moving along in open As the were • Tuesday , May 15.- News came that order , this morning , a number of horse our guide was coming up by forced men were seen galloping toward us , but marches and it was concluded to hold at so great a distance that their charac- the train . About ten o'clock he reach ter could not be determined . Indians ed our encampment and pitched his having been report d in the vicinity , tent . It being cool and cloudy , some . there was a great commotion . Orders times threating rain , it was thought were at once given to halt and close up best not to move at all . We had been the column and prepare for a ; attack . told that Robidaux , the guide , intended The stragglers struck for the wagons ; the to take out his family , but all that seem guns were recapped and everything ed to be with him was a son , a lad of made ready for defense . It was not eighteen , sliglitly dusky in hue , a horse long before we ascertained that a party and a dog , with the driver of his team . of mounted emigrants were out on a ! This may constitute his family -- his hunt , and had come across a deer and wives may be awaiting him at some were in hot pursuit . The deer was too way station . He was a tall genteel look . small to be seen in the distance , and so the ing personage , a descendant of one of the dashing horsemen were supposed to be old French royageurs in St. Louis . He Pawnees looking for fresh scalps . After had been all his life engaged in the In the scare was over there were many ' dian trade , once had a trading post on brave men who had no fear of a whole one of the branches of the Green River , tribe of savages . and had journeyed several times to the The road was soft and slippery , the Pacific . He bore the sobriquet of the weather quite cold and windy ; we “ Prairie Wolf . " lle was dangerous traveled the fifteen miles , but no Blue ly wounded at the battle of San Pas river made its appearani ale con- qual , during the Mexican war . His ac cluded that we had bee ' n , quaintance with the country and his ex and pitched our cam ' perience in mountain travel was sup through which a sir 1 posed to be of great advantage to us . 20 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIỂ IN 1843 .

We were to pay him for his services one cask . He gave us some choice ham and dollar and a half each , one half down bacon served with stewed poaches and and the balance at the end of the jour- coffee ; not exactly au lait , but with sugar ney . I was detailed for guard duty to instead , and for dessert boiled rive with night . molasses . Our provision chest and china closet , a plain box with cover , CHAPTER V. two feet by four , set in the centre of the RAPID PROGRESS - GOOD CHEER - A NIGHT tent.made a serviceable table . While thus ON GCARD - BEAUTIFCL STREAMS -- FINE ' gathered around our rustic board at the COUNTRY -- A FRIGHTENED YOUTH - THE twilight hour , enjoying the delicacies FIRST GRAVE - WOOD CARVING - LYING so bountifully provided , with bounding BILLETINS CROSS THE BLUE - RE- , health and bouncing appetites , we for TU'RNING EMIGRANTS -- WRITE HOME . got not our suffering friends in the far 9 * Here are seen | east , toiling in pent up rooms , worried No traces of man's pomp or pride : no silks with cares and vexed with the annoy Rastle , bo jewels shine , nor envious eyes ances of society , shunning the table Encounter , no fantastic carvings show because they cannot eat , dreading the Tre boast of our vain race to change the form of thy fair works But thou art bere : thou fillest couch because they cannot sleep . One The solitude . " and all expressed for them the deepest commiseration and pity . The law of l'ednesday , May 16. - We are now al compensation is wonderful - poverty ready for a bold push ahead . By seven and toil are rewarded with peace and o'clock the order of march was given , sweet repose ; wealth and idleness , and the grand • Robidaux Train " rolled with carking care and sad unrest . At out of our encampment in fine order . eignt o'clock my companions turned in Bidwell at ibe head , our team bext and and I reported for duty at the guard thirty four following in the rear , while tent . the guards rode or walked by their sides with fire - locks on their shoulders . It was Thursday , May 17. - For three hours really an imposing cavalcade and one last night I paced my designated round well able to resist the attack of any before the corral , while the " sentinel force the Indians might bring against us . stars " set their watch in the sky . I re We have po apprehension from that garded it by no means an uupleasant quarter if we are only on the alert . The duty . It furnished so fine an opportu day bas been charming and the road nity to study the heavens and the glory as smooth as could be desired . The thereof . While the material body is grass is fine and furnishes ample forage . chained , as it were , to this earthly Just before night we struck a beautiful sphere , the immaterial is flying to mil stream of sparkling water fiowing over lions of other worlds above and around a pebbly bed which we learned was not us , looking into their constitutions and the Blue , but a branch of the Nimrha . speculating upon the doings of the be We have made nineteen and a half miles , ings that do them inhabit . It is not & most encouraging advance . All are in strange that the nomadic shepherds of bigla spirits and hilarity prevails the cast , who watched their flocks by throughout the camp . Our cook , bring night , should have been the first teach in the best of humor , did his best to add ers of astronomy and the philosophy to the general gooi foeling of our mess incident to it . by baking sonut fine lodian cakes and We made this morning an ear . setting them on our board piping hot , and start . The weather was fine , the ri broaching for the first time the motasses good , the country quite rolling THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 91 most beautiful . We see no game but I ascender a high ridge near which the piping plover . An occasional mag . we passed , which afforded a magnificent pie is sometimes seen , with a curious view of the whole country - grassy eye prospecting the trail for a jewel o : slopes , green woods and winding bone . We arrived at the main branch struams , but not a ' human habitation , of the Nimeha at eleven o'clock . This yet there were moving multitudes , is a crystal stream here , sixty feet wide , white topped wagons and lengthened a tributary of the Missouri . Timber is trains passing in a continuous tide west forind in abundance along its banks , oak , erly . We passed the graves of three hickory and walnut of a thrifty growth . men only yesterday buried - victims of I think I never laid eyes on a more the cholera . We hear fearful reports charming place . The ford was steep of the ravages of this fell disease among and difficult and caused a delay of those before and behind us . It seems nearly three hours . We found the trees somewhat strange that all those in our and stumps on the banks covered all vicinity should escapoʻthis scourge . over with the names of hundreds of em Our mess organization works admir . igranis who had preceeded us , the dates ably . As soon as our wagons reach the of their passing , and the state of their camp - ground ( they are the first ) three health and spirits , together with an oc- ! of us put up the tent , the otkurs start casional message for expected follow- the fire and bring the water , the cook ers . Such records in the midst of a in a moment is baking and frying , and wild solituje like this can not but make before the last wagon wheels up , we are a stroog imprr ion upon every new cosily supping . Made sixteen miles , comer . These wayside notes were read As I was riding along leisurely in ad with avidity and the paths to and from vance of the train , I saw sitting on a them were well beaten . On the banks grassy knoll by the wayside a young of this lovely river we passed the first man of our company from Ohio , looking grave of an emigrant on our way thus far . very blue . He asked me in a pleading From the memorandum left , he must tone bow far it was to the Missouri . I have been a mere youth , Perhaps it i said " About 100 miles " he inquired if was well that he was thus early relieved I would sell Charley . I replied “ I can from the toils of a long and tedious not well spare him , but why do you journey , and released from the disap- wish to buy ? ” “ I want to go back , " pointments and trials of an equally vex- he replied . Why so ? " I asked . Then atious and troublous life . We inoved pulling up with a jerk his shirt sleeve a few miles up the stream and camped and baring his arm he said , “ Look having made only twelve miles . there ! ” and then in a similar manner his loose trousers , “ Look there ! ” I Friday , May 18 , -At seven A. M. we laughed at his alarm , and rejoined , were on our winding way through the That is nothing but the hives , occa most beautiful country I have yet seen , sioned by heating your blood . You will passing through splendid groves of be all right before morning . ” These noble old oaks and hickorys , and dip cheering words set him on his feet ping into ravines coursed by murmur again , and restored his flagging spirits , ing streams , reminding me of the sweet and on he went as cheery as ever . landscape in and around the classic He thought he had the small - pox or land of Burns . cholera , and had been encouraged in “ The braes of Door that belief by their prevalance . Perhaps So passing fair , si these diseases The poets place or some other would have Beyond the gras been developed by his fears . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1843 . hea ! Saturday , May 19. - We moved this and were detained some little time at morning at six o'clock and marched , on the crossing in getting our wagons maguk with vigor through a country equally orer . Tha stream was nearly three feet 17 beautiful with that of yesterday , but deep and one hundred and twenty wide , somewhat varied . There were a suo with quite a current . As a precaution habitkan our wagon boxes so to mu version of bluffs intersected by many we blocked up streams . This was once the paradise of prevent the wetting of our baggage . Af Deepike the buffalo , their grand summer pastur- ter crossing , finding no place to camp , ing grounds . Here was water , grass we journeyed on till near night . There and shade . Early travelers represent were slight showers during the day , but ricia their numbers bere as passing belief . not enough rain to hinder materially They have dissapeared now before the our progress . We passed a large number murderous attacks of the hunters and encamped for rest . We also have passed It sportsmen , leaving nothing but their a number of new made graver , vic great white skulls , as ibe unly meino- tims of the cholera . We have made alle rials of their existence , and these liter- eighteen miles . ke ali ally cover the plains . Their broad reacht and smooth surface furnishes a most Monday , May 21.- We started at the excellent tablet or bulletin board for usual hour . Crossed over the divide wayfarers who wish to posify friends between the Big and Little Blue and at the follow ing them of their whereabouts by , three o'clock discovered the latter ring , a writing their names and the date with stream to our left , and at night encamp & common lead pencil . If a stake can be ed two miles from the river . During miles had the skulls are hung upon that , but the day we crossed many ravines which Hy is generally they are laid in such a mag . , so retarded our progress that we made ner Dear the trail as to attract atten . only sixteen miles . The weather was fair ** tion . They are he lying journals of the with slight and sudden showers . There 1 luk plains , in more senses than one , for is encamped near us a small party please every passing scribbler out of malice or with a single wagon . They had formed mischief will mar the memorandum or a part of a company from St. Louis , Juin proceeded wichin sixty miles add a contradiction or write “ It is res , which had ported that a train was attacked by In- of Fort Kearney , but bad quarreled and do dians about twenty miles in advance . becoine disgusted with the trip and with a bal each other and had separated . These or * A murder was committed yester 3. TM day at the crossing . The culprit will persons are on their return to St. t aler Louis . They give discouraging ac be executed tomorrow , " etc .; also " awkward attempts at ruderhymes . Time counts of matters ahead ; in addition to man will soon obliterate these frail records sickness the lodians were troublesome . me . " as the writing on the sands . Perhaps · Wagons , they say , can be purchased PjOK some future Champolin may decipher upon the route from emigrants for from 3 , au them for the benefit of the curious . We ten to fifteen dollars apiece and pro Pour camped on the Vermillion , a branch of visions for almost notbing at all , and that Thell the Bug Blue , awwut two miles from the the cholera is prevailing to an alarm ford , having made ( wenty milex . i ing extent . Their accounts are spinta gloomy enough . So much for hazard . took my turn at guard duty . ous enterprises rashly undertaken and por i Sunday , May 20.- It was urged as a prosecuted by those without previous gel y reasun that we should move w -day so as knowledge of what they had to do and Berband to cross the Big Blue before a rain their ability to do it . What else could db should swell its waters . So we started be expected . They kindly consented to THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 23

take a letter for me and deposit it in the have been under the yoke eighteen first post - office they reached . I hasten- days . A fretful and impatient driver ed to my tent and penned the following : makes a fretful and impatient team , 150 miles west of St. Jo . May 21 , 1849 . and both soon give out , as they should . ( MY DEAR FRIENDS : The amount of labor animals are able to I have just found an oppor- perform depends very much upon the tunity of fowarding a letter to the frontier by treatment they receive . As soon as the some emigrants turning back and now camped cattle have filled themselves at night , near us . It is now late and my candle is about used up . I can only say that we have reached they are driven into the corral and bere safely without meeting with the slightest picketed close by the wagons . They lie ! accident . My health has been excellent . We down quietly and with a sense of secur suffer no privations , we have all the comforts ity as if within their owners yard . and some of the luxuries of life . Dudley is our cook and gets up excellent meals . You will hear During the night one of the guards is terrible tales of sickness and distress among the constantly patroling ja their midst to emigrants , reported by those who have met a prevent them from being frightened by lion in the way and have turned back . True , a prowling fox or wolf or some unusual a good many have died from various diseases which human flesh is heir to . Out of twenty noise . We made twenty miles . Fonr thousand , it would seem strange if some would thousand teams are reported in advance not . We constantly hear reports of outrages of us little distance ahead . committed by Indians some CHAPTER VI . but when we reach the locality it is news there , A day or two ago we found a note conspiciously " NOLI ME TANGERE " -THE LITTLE BLUE posted by the wayside , purporting to have been -A FURIOUS STORM - A TRAIN MEETING placed there by a Mr. Fowler , stating that twenty --OH , YES ! OH , YES ! -- MIRACULOUS ka . miles from this point the evening before , his CAF E - MOUNTAINS WILD ROARS - SICK train was attacked by Pawnees and his cattle stainpeded and driven off . This created some NESS ABATING -THE WALKING ARTIL little alarm among the timid , but I am satisfied LERY " ( ROSS THE DIVIDE - REACH THE it is all a hoaxWe have traveled more than PLATO - FORT KEARNEY . thirty miles and can hear nothing of the occur . rence . The whole country is alive with men and " And this is in the night - most glorious night ! teams streaming westward . At this time no less Thou wert not sent for slumber ; let me be than four large companies are camped within A sharer in thy fierce and far delight , hailing distance . There is not the slightest A portion of the tempest and of thee ground for alarm , yet we keep a regular guard How the lit lake shines - a phosphoric sea ; at night . You can have no conception of the And the big rain comes dancing to the earth ; loveliness of the country , clothed as it now is with and now again ' tis black - and now , the glee the richest of verdure . The road is finer and of the loud hills shakes with its mountain smoother than Liberty street , except at the mirth , crossings of sloughs and streams . Oh night , and darkness , ye are wondrous strong ! " Wednesday , May 23. - We moved at Tuesday , May 22. - We were on the six in the morning . It was cold and march by six o'clock , bearing nearly windy . The roadway direct , but very due west . It is as cold as in October so uneven , crossing numerous ravines . that we moved briskly to keep comfort . During the day we crossed the Little able . The Doctor and I ride and tie , as Sandy and Big Sandy . They are called we say -- he rides until he is weary , then creeks , although there is no running pickets the horse near the trail so that water in them now , but in the early it can graze until I arrive . In this way spring and after great rains they are wy both are relieved so that when night respectable streams . There are standing comes we are conscious of no weariness . pools along their course which furnish Our cattle , under the kind and gentle sufficient water for travelers . We made treatment of Brown to be gain- seventeen miles and encamped on a bluff ing in flesh , not that they without wood or water . TELE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

While strolling out on the plain to - day We met several wagons with emigrants in search of plover , I came across a either frightened or discouraged , home : beautiful crimson , wax - like flower , I ward bound . They do what they can upon a green , prickly bulb growing to excuse their conduct by reporting about the size of , and in shape of , an in- terrible stories of suffering and depriva #verted tea - cup . It was entirely new to tion . It commenced raining before me . I carefully cut off the bulb close we balted for the night . Having made to the ground , and put it in my haver twenty - one and a half miles , the best sack to carry to camp for the inspection time yet , we encamped on a beach above of my companions . I very soon felt a the broad bottom of the river , favorable | painfully prickling sensation in my feet , for drainage . After dark the rain caine on my arms and back as if ten thousand down furiously , as though the windows ! Dettles were at work . I at once became of heaven were opened Such deep I suspicious that it was due to the fair thunder and vivid lightning I never I Power I had plucked , and forthwith witnessed before . To get the full benefit emptied my haversack . On relating my of a thunder storm one should be on a sad experience to a plainsman on mo Western plain . We were told that the return to camp , he laughed heartily at Indians availed themselves of these my simplicity , and said it was the wild storms to cover their attacks and stam prickly pear that was very common an pede the aniinals of a train , consequently the dry sandy uplands , and was danger- we doubled our guard . I was detailed li Gus even to approach , for its poisonous for that duty and from eight till eleven 1 spines would penetrate cloth and even o'clock paced my round in the worst of I kather , and was always to be avoided by this elemental war . The perpetual roll man and beast . It was in fact a species of or the loud thunder was grand , the E cactus that is so luxuriant in Mexico lightning was brilliant and constant , so and the southern deserte , sometimes that the whole plain was lighted as at growing several feet in beight . It is midday , and any approaching object planted around fields and gardens in lieu could be seen a half a mile distant . of a hedge or a fence , and forms a per . Protected from the pouring rain by the fect protection , as no animal can be in- old soldier coat , I felt little discomfort , duced to pass over or even near it . 1 and really enjoyed the adventure . There The dortor has acquired quite a repu- are no situations in life , however gloomy tation for skill in his profession , Al- and torbidden they inay appear , if we do though we have had no sickness in our but accept them gracefully and philo- , company , he has been frequently called ' sophically , that we cannot sinooth their upon by our neigh wors on account of rough edges and throw around them a some ailment . He is known as the New silver lining . The tents furnished little York Doctor - they are regarded as first- protection agalurt the dreary rain , and class . He has bad , however , no use for those within them fared little better his murderous scalpel . than those without . Thursday , May 24. – This morning we Friday , May 25. - The storin had spent reached the Little Blue , and kept up its itself before morning , and the sun rose right bank At the noon halt some bright and clear ; we remained , however , companies that lay by last Sunday in camp till twelve o'clock to dry out passed us . I called the attention of my our wet baggage , when we moved on 11 companions to the fact that these parties : the river , reaching very soon the i had had a day of rest and enjoyment , tion of the St. Jo . and Indepe and yet were as far in advance as we . trails . After this the crowd THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . was greatly increased There was a cattle of the company stampeded from strong west wind and it was quite cool , the corral , rushing over every obstruction so much so that walking was more com- and in spite of their drivers fled over the tortable than riding We made only plain . Some were found during the twelve miles , but we considered it a next day , but the company bad started good drive , considering our late start on and left them . Her husband was and the time we were on the road . As still in search of their cattle , and in case soon as camped the train crier was heard they were not found they would be singing out , " Oh , yes ! Oh , yes ! There compelled to return . It was said that will be a meeting in the corral at seven some were found twenty miles away . o'clock . ” It is the custom in the west The scare was supposed to have been for the court crier at the court house caused by a fox or wolf that had stolen door tu sing out " Oh , yes ! " having sub- into the corral . This mishap showed stituted that English word for the old how important the keeping of a guard 1 French " oyez ! ” meaning " Hear ye . ” patroling during the night . It tends to T.ese meetings are not uncommon when keep these “ varmivts ” away as well as the weather is favorable . On this to quiet the fears of the cattle . occasion we were called together to We kept up the Blue and camped on hear the complaint of those at the rear its banks at 5 P. M. , having made fifteen of the train . They were delayed by and a half miles . every stoppage ahead of them , besides Sunday , May 27.- We moved at 6 increasing the labor of their teanis . Nothing , however , was done at the o'clock and struck over the divide for the Platt , estimated twenty miles meeting except to direct that a greater space be kept between the different distant . The sun shown out clear and warm , and we were all in good spirits . teains . 1 At our midday halt we met some Saturday , May 26. — The Dactor came mountaineers under the lead of a French near ineeting with a serious accident man with two wagons laden with buf . obis morning . He had been on guard falo skins on their way to market . They during the night and was asleep in the left Fort Laramie about twenty - one days the guard tent when called to breakfast . ago . He stated that there had been Getting up in a burry he drew his rifle much rain on the Platt , and that the after him . The hammer caught on roads were very heavy , nevertheless some some obstacle and the gun went off in of the emigrants had reached Fort the midst of the crowd . The bullet Laramie before he left . He met thou just grazed the palm of his hand and sands of wagons on the road . His men tore a fearful hole through the sleeve were a rough looking set ; they were of the old soldier's " coat which he had now going to the frontier for the first on , doing no further damage . . His es- time in years . Their long , black , un : cape was almost miraculous . The kempt locks hung over their shoulders , wound in his hand was very slight , and their beards were like a buffalo's causing but little inconvenience . I mane . They were dressed in buckskin confess to more fear from the careless i and shod with moccasins . Probably by handling of firearms than from any the time we have been two months out external for . ' we will make no better appearance . We passed tv - day a wagon standing They were quiet and gentle in their near the trail , tenan i solitary manners , as mountaineers generally are . female , who infor : ng the I purchased of the Freachinan , for the severe storm ( 1 " the sum of four dollars , one of the finest 26 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA , TRAIL IN 1849 .

and softest robes I had ever seen . For al Monday , May 28. - I was somewhat bed , it was equal to the very best mat- ' indisposed this morning with my habita tress . The Frenchman kindly con- ' al complaint , the sick head - ache , and sented to depusit any missive I might lay in the wagon most of the day . wish to send in the first postoffice . About two o'clock we reached the socordingly sat down upon the tongne broad valley of the Platt , in the vicinity of one of his wagons and wrote a brief of Grand Island , and kept up the valley mote and delivered it to him for friends some little distance from the river ten at home , informing them that we are miles , where we ca nped . The road making good progress and are no x near was very fine - perfectly level and the the Platt , and that the kick dess seems rod smooth and soft as a carpet . There to be abating , as we have passed no was no jolt or sound from the wagon , graves for several days . We made and its motion was hardly perceptible . seventeen and a half miles and encamped Buffalo are reported to have been seen m sight of the bluffs beyond the Platt . ' five or six miles distant . Our animals Mb - sever the weather is pleasant the fared sumptuously on the sweet , short supernumeraries can be sen strolling in grass , but we had no water but such as every direction along and about the was to be found in standing pools . The trul . Miller , as he strides ahead with river was too far distant for our pur his long heavy rifle on his shoulder , and puses , por was wood w be had in is seen mounting the swells and appear the vicinity . We looked out for this ing in outline against the sky , like prime necessity , and kept a small supply the spectre of the Brocken , causes no lashed to the reach of the wagons . We small merriment to the Bath mess . The made seventeen miles . A warm cup of monstrvus rifle , his never failing com- toa set me all right again . Having pinion , was the generous gift of Orrin reached an important landmark on our smith , and for that reason is designated ' route , all felt quite elated . My compan * Falber Orrin . " Ius weight couldn't ions really don't realize that we have box less than thirty pounds and its length ' only accomplished one - tenth of our jour brariy six feet . It was fashioned at an ney and the easiest part of it . There is early day by Dracon Biles for a stal . a disposition manifested to laugh at the Wart tunter of old Struben who was sage felluws who urged the necessity of able to bar a inuntain on his shoulders . : employing a guide up these broad and A whole train might pass over ils barrel open valleys . They say that there is as without doing any damage . Of course much danger of being lost on the road it was a heavy burden to bear , and yet w perdition where broad is the way and Dubay refused it a place in the wagon . great multitudes walk therein . Imagine Miller was oons quently dubbed “ Cap- , that guide stock on the second assessment tals of the Walking Artillery . " will go down like the stock of a new rail CHAPTER VII . road under similar circumstances . Calico Vesls and boiled shirts are also at a large VALLEY OF THE PLATT OR NEBRASKA KAD HIGHWAY -- Fukt KEARNEY discount . Although we have measured CAPT . BONNERVILLE -- THE BLUFF8- , full two hundred miles , yet , in all that GRUMBLERS - PRAIRIE DOG VILLAGE distance , we have not come across a ANTELOPE STEAK AND BUFFALO STEW . fandango , break -down , fete champe * And to east and to west , to the north and the tre or scalp - dance , and never a bloody sun , Blue males and browa grasses are addded as lodian has shown his face , so they could And the Buffalo come like a cloud in the neither be used nor sold . plans , Tuesduy , May 29.- A pleasant drivi Pouring un . like the tade of the storm driven maine . of seven miles brought us to F. THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

Kearney . This is a government post but difficult places so that they cannot reach lately established . At present it consists the camp for an hour after the first tent of a number of long , low buildings con- is pitched . It is now settled by a vote structed principally of adobe , or sun- taken at the meeting this evening in the dried bricks , with nearly flat roofs ; a corral that each team that follows next , large hospital tent ; two or three work . except the wagon - masters , shall take shops , enclosed by canvas walls ; a store- its place at the rear , the next morning . house constructed in the same manner : It seems strange but no less true that one or two long adobe stables , with men cannot be kept together in these in roofs of brush , and tents for the accomº formal organizations without law , no modation of officers and men . There matter how great the danger ' and how are stationed here two companies of much the necessity , unless controlled by infantry and one of dragoons . The Fort absolute authority . They will quarrel was under the command of that re- and separate . There was some surprise doubtable soldier and mountaineer , Col. when the teams we passed while they Bonnerville , whose adventures among were resting last Sunday drove rapidly the mountains and deserts of the West by us this morning . have been so charmingly detailed by Thursday , May 31. - The march to - day that paragon of descriptive writers , has been severe . The bottoms now are Washington Irving . I regretted very 80 soft in places that it has been quite much that I was unable to have a chat difficult to force our loaded wagons with the gallant and genial old moun through . It was impossible for the and taineer . The rush of emigrants wagon - master to maintain the order of soldiers about the Fort was so great that march . The wagons were separated one could hardly get a glimse of the in- and came straggling into camp . We side . We moved up the streain nine ! made only sixteeen miles . The cow . miles and ei cam ped . trains passed us at noon and attracted Wednesday , May 30. - It rained power- i nuch attention . The conductor was a fully during the night and early morning , tall , lank specimen of humanity . He so ihat we remained in camp till 12 led a solitary cow upon whose horns was strapped a small bag of meal and o'clock to give our dampened baggage as well as the roads tiine to dry a little . It on her back his blanket , while in his was cool and windy . We pushed on hand he carried a tin - pail to milk her . eleven and a half miles to a point where His outfit was not expensive . He was the road strikes the Platt and then on . well provided and could live upon the country . camped . We found good grass and took our water from the celebrated stream . Friday , June 1.- This is the first day It was some - what muddy but neverthe- of summer , and has been as bright and less sweet . The Platt or Nebraska , as beautiful as we could wish . The roads it is sometimes called ( said to mean are better , and we have made fair pro shallow water ) , riges at the base of Fre- gress . The valley within the bluffs mont's Peak in the Wind - River moun- steins to be some six or seven miles tains , counting the Sweetwater its main broad , and the river about a mile in branch , is nine hundred miles in length , width . On the opposite bank is the but utterly worthless for navigation . trail from Council Bluffs , and a long There is much grumblin vr train ' line of teams seenis to be creeping along about the marchir nts i westward like so many caterpillars , and Some think the com ! he as if our trains were reflected from the rear teains suffer mi : bosom of the stream . The bluffs on the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 ,

north side of the river are apparently prairie dog is of a sprightly mercurial and formed of fine sand , and are much nature , quick , sensitive and somewhat he fx higher , and appear to be more wooded petulant . He is entirely gregareous , by than on the south side . The character living in large communities , sometimes niny of the bluffs on the south side presented of several acres in extent , where innum uloma a more gradual slope to the river . The erable little heaps of earth show the salt soil contained more clay , and at a dis- ' entrances to the subterranean cells of the touctance of a mile back from their inhabitants , and the well - beaten tracks , s tre escarpoent , they were cut up by con- like lanes , show their mobility and rest in the stant ravines with banks precipitous . lessness . They are constantly barking it be and in some instances perpendicular . and bobbing about like other village gos radi li would seem as in the whole valley sips , making a din and clatter like the as utrole had been filled with water which wasbed seinhled wisdom of the nation , as if the il que tiene bluffs . The wbole scene affairs of the world were in their keep te su presented in this grand valley is surpass- ing . Their government is purely Demo bile ingly beautiful . There is great hilarity cratie in which the females have an e mi in camp w - night , one of onr hunters equal voice . When the community is having brought in an antelope , and once grown , they must send out colon giren us a portion . The delicious odor ies suiciently strong to form villages , DON of frying steaks was made all happy for for none are found living singly . They the time , and our worry and trial is all are very wary and dodge into their holes forgotten We have made nineteen at the approach of intruders . They mile . have no resemblance to the dog , except e ondet Saturday , June 2. - We started at day . ' in their bark or yelp Their food is grass seper light without our breakfast , and travel and roots . Their villages are some dis ed till 8 o'clock . This enabled us to tance from water , and iur that element , zap be op avoid the mid - day heat , and the clouds if they need it , they must depend upon Saturday of dust that follow the moving trains . rain or the dews of Heaven . A fine breeze sprang up that greatly Some members of a company who ity modrrated the sweltering heat . The camped near us kuiled a buifalı yester we bluffs increase in height and beauty . , day , and kindly gave 18 a rufficient Our camping ground w - night presents a quantity of the meat for supper . It eink most charming picture . Some of our was somewhat coarser than beef , but milk Ohio friends have become dissatisfied , the fiavor was excellent . We made to . and bolted to - day when we halted , and day eighteen miles . passing as usual a CD moved on . The same thing is occurring large number of encampments of those every day in other trains . A chronic resting for the day . grumbler is not improved by a irip on CHAPTER VIII . sat the plains . It is believed that the dis ht al A WILD RIDE - LOST ON THE PLAINS- bike is somewhat aggravated by it . He STRANGE FORMATIONS -- ( ' ROSSING THE made eighteen miles . SOUTH FORK OF THE PLATT - SIOU'X Sunday , June 3. - The valley is gradu . GREAT JOCKIES -ROMAN ORIGIN , ally growing barrower as we proceed . , 0b : there there is freedom and joy and pride . uile The bluffs are near and consequently * far on the desert alone to ride ; Dis why become more picturesque . About boon . There is raptuie w vault on the champing steed , And w bound away with the Eagle's speed . " o let we passed the first “ village " on our skill route . The inhabitants were all prairie Moulay , June 4. - It was supposed 9 , and dogs ( a minlaiure species of wod . that butfalo would be found on chuck ) . Owls and rattle - snakes . The plains beyond the blutis . As soul THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

the train was in motion , in company that we separate and move in a parallel with two hunters experienced in the line some distance from each other , so chase , I started out on a hunt . We were that perchance the game escaping one , all mounted , and expected to return to might fall into the hands of the others . our train before nightfall . We took a As I mounted a swell , I saw in the dis south - westerly course , clambered up the tance a large gray wolf , crouching in bluffs and struck out on the illimitable the grass near a buffalo wallow . These plains . We could see any quantity of are quite common on the plains , being small game scampering over the knolls low clayey places where the water and ridges , such as antelope , deer , stands after a rain . The buffalo , when wolves , rabbits and the like , but we paid ever they find these low wet spots , com no attention to them . We saw frequent | mence wallowing in them like the hog signs of buffalo , somewhat recent , but to rid theniselves from the flies and ver nothing more . The great herds had min that collect in their hairy sides . In either crossed the Platt and gone north this manner the mud and earth is so or had been turned back south on see- packed that water will stand in them ing the trains moving up the river . At for some time , which supplies , except in noon we stopped to eat our lunch and a very dry time , other denizens of the let our horses graze . After a brief rest . plains with that necessary beverage . believing there was no hope of finding Many a thirsty traveler has been right larger game , we determined to try our glad to find one of these reservoirs . The band upon a herd of antelope we saw at wolf was evidently awaiting the ap a distance We approached them cau . proach of some deer or antelope to tiously , keeping out of sight as much as quench its thirst , when he would spring possible behind some hillocks . When upon him . I made a wide detour to get we were sufficiently near to attract their the wind of him as well as to obtain the attention , we lay down in the grass in a cover of a knob or knoll . I dismount little hollow entirely out of sight . These ed , picketed my horse and crept up animals . as wary as they are , neverthe- ' cautiously until I could see my game . less have an inordinate curiosity which It was a long way , but I fired and miss is made available for their destruction ied . The wolf sprang up , and looked in this open country We tied a red about defiantly to discover his assailant . handkerchief to a ramrod , and com . I reloaded and commenced pursuit . menced waving it above our breast . The wary fellow moved off just about work and were delighted to see them as fast as I approached . I fired again approach . It was arrar.ged that as and missed , and made up my mind that soon as they were near enough , a sigoal the chase was fruitless and started for was to be given , when all were to rise my horse . When I mounted again , I and fire . After waiting a sufficient looked around for my companions , but length of time for them to come within they were no where to be seen . I sought range , we looked up and saw them scam- an elevation which commanded a wide pering off with the fleetness of the wind . view to find my position and the course We blazed away without effect . They of my companions . When there , a wide had either winded us , or something else illimitable sea of rolling , grassy billows had given them a scare . They are trim spread out before me , with no living be and graceful creatures with a soft dark ling any where to be seen . I was with eye . It seems want . to kill out landmarks , charts or compass . So them except in case interested in the ramble and so intent After this failur ed upon the chase , relying entirely upon 80 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

the skill and experience of my compan- course of the broad and shallow river , ions , I had taken note of nothing . In The bluffs of indurated clay are cut in short , I was lost . I had heard much of and seamed with ravines and gorges by the instinct of animals that would lead the rains and storms , assuming the most them to take the back track . I gave fantastic shapes . I commenced clam Charley the rein . He started squarely bering down toward the plain , Charley south . I thought at first that he might following me quetly , when I found be following the trail of my companions , myself in one of the completest little but I could see far enough to satisfy me pits I had ever seen . It was about a that they could not be in that direction . hur.dred feet square witl . perpendicular Perhaps he remembered the rich pas- sides , perhaps thirty feet in height , tures of Texas , his ! ormer home , and smooth as a fioor on the bottom and instinctively turned thitherward . I took covered with buffalo grass . In the very the rein and said to my faithful friend , centre grew several stately cedars . - " scop : instinct is at fault ; let us try While looking about and admiring the reason . " The sun was then shining in the completeness of such a place of refuge , I west , the direction our train had been beard a hoarse and startling croak and . moving for days . We struck off from on looking up in the topmost branches their trail nearly twelve . miles , By of the cedar , I saw a hated , ill - starred night - fall the train will have advanxd ' raven and its nest I raised my rifle to twenty miles , su by taking a north ward fire , but a good angel as suddenly stayed wurst at an angle of forty - five degrees ' my hand and whispered , “ Never we shall strike the camp . " It was ' more ! What harm has the poor bird agreed to , and we started , my nose fur- done you or yours ? ” The weapon nishing an admirable dial . I kept on dropped . , my course with alsolute confidence “ Then upon the green sod sinking , Oh ! I felt then I bewok myself w linking Faney into fancy , thinking * There was a pleasure in the pathless woods " What that ominous bird of yore , ** There was society where none intrudes . " What this grim , ungainly , ghastly , Gaunt and ominous bini of yore A large yellow cinnainon bear crossed Meant in croaking " Never more : my pathway and I gave pursuit . He To me it meant that wanton war scampered to a high knob , and wben he reached its bare summit , he rose apon his either from passion or prejudice upon any of God's creatures , however humble , haunches and took a survey of the situa- , inade to fill a void in creation , must nev tron . I half suspected that the hirsute er more be made by me , who sought and object prering about might be an Indian in disguise . It is their custom so to de hoped for care and protection from the ceive the unwary and take observations good and merciful Being that guards and governs without creating suspicion . us all . The lengthening shadow's reminded me that night was As I bad little time to investigate , I rapidly approaching . I mounted and made my way onward . I saw a solitary followed a devious opening , that led out horseman at a distance and I tried to on the plain and with a tally - ho ! Chai signal him , but he was suspicious of me ley , on a round gallop , dashed over und kept out of my path . Just before the smooth sward . Just at dusk I sunset . I reached the brow of the bluffs struck the trail and met acquaintancam of the Platt . The outlook was grand in- from whom I learned that the Risto deed . I could see the clouds of dust daux train had passed some little ti that marked the great trail , and the before . I rode on about five milion THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 81 found them comfortably encamped , and as they sat on their wiry little having made twenty miles , my compan- ponies about us , reminded me of the old ions bad already come in . My angle Roman legionaries of Cæsar . Some was all right but I had mistaken the claim that they are actually decendants length of the perpendicular . A single of Roman colonists who came to this buffalo attempted to reach the Platt , country more than a thousand years agu . near our encampment , and was killed They assert that this is evident from their by one of our men , cast of countenance and a strange simi . Tuesday , June 5 – The crossing of the larity of many words in their language south fork of the Platt was reached to the Latin . They have ever been the about noon , and we entered upon the master - spirits of the western tribes . toilsome and difficult task of fording At the crossing several miles this fickle and uncertain stream . It is distant on the plain , we saw three buf near a half a mile wide , its bottom a bed falo pursued by a number of Indians . I of quicksand . All hands were compelled was strongly tempted to go out and join to take bold and steady the wagons in the chase , but the severe labor of the down the steep bank . When the wheels day inclined me to rest . We encamped struck the quicksand , the swift water about a mile from these Sioux and could washed it from under , so that the hear their yells all night . Some vaga wheels are constantly running up hill , bond had furnished them , with " Old making a constant buzzing like an Rye " that had made them crazy . They engine letting off steam . The moment are great jockeys and are experts in the wagon or team halts , they are going horse flesh ; always ready for a “ swap , " down - down and would be soon en- and in every case get the best of the tirely buried . bargain . They were anxious to get Brower rode Charley over , by the side Charley , and to their banter for a trade , of his team . I remained behind to assist I replied : " No swap . ” They answered the rest in getting down the bark . While those who desired to sell them pocket I was at work , a report came back to me mirrors . hawk - bells and beads , most con that I must hurry over , that Charley temptuously and decidedly : “ No swap . " was restive and difficult to hold , and After this interview no one had the threatened to hreak away . I waded cheek to bring out their gimcracks , but over as soon as possible and found that tossed then away or presented them to Brower had turned over the horse to the pappuosell . As we passed by their Miller while he noved on with the tepe , the children came out without team . There was an encampment of fear and followed us some distance , Sioux near the ford . Charley recognized amused with the trinkets we showed his old enemies and at once became en . , and gave them , like the children of our tirely wild until I was on his back , end villages when a dancing bear or perform then he was content . Still he would not ing monkey with their exhibitor parade allow an Indian to coine within ten feel the streets . To show their knowledge of him . of classical English the old bucks would These Sioux were here on their annual flippantly repeat “ Wo baw , God damn ! " hunt and were entirely friendly . They pedantically tossing their heads to make were fine , stately - looking fellows , plump you believe they were snart fellows and and well - fed , with proininent features , i understood English . 82 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

CHAPTER IX . spring rains , containing a large amount ASH ROLLOW - HUNDREDS OF WAGONS of water . The trail is here forced around MOUNTAIN BIVOCAC - TROUBLE IN CAMP the head of this ravine . The assent of - WITHDRAWAL FROM ROBIDACI COM . the bluff is quite steep and difficult , PAXY - SI'NDAY A DAY OF REST . rendering it necessary in some cases to “ The sound of the church going tell double the teams , and causing much * These valleys and rocks dever heard , delay . There was a large crowd scramb " Never sighed at the sound of a knell , ling up the hill and still a larger throng “ Or smiled when a Sabbath appeared . waiting their motions . I walked up to Wednesday . Inne 6- Brower reported the summit and took a survey of the that Charley was nervous all night and scene . There was a compact line of can Dever left the shelter of the wagon , even vas covered wagons back for nearly a e to satisfy his hunger . He well knew mile : then two short diverging columns that when these jockeys were about it on each side like bow's , both striking the was prudent for him to lay low and keep main line near the foot of the bluff . It within the corral . There was a severe was a magnificent sight . I estimated rain in the night . After two miles the number at not less than five hundred , travel we struck over toward the north the greatest number that I had ever fork of the Platt which was reached in seen massed together . I pitied the about two miles . We then kept up the poor oxen , wearied with a five hours stream twelve miles further , making for drive , thus forced with whip and halloo the day sixteen miles . There was a to drag the heavy wagons up this diffi slight storm at noon , but it cleared off cult steep , but there was no help for it . beautifully . Quite early the campers The country about the hollow is very 1 passed , last Sunday rolled by us . Our much broken and cut up with ravines . men looked rather glum and seemed con . Some ash trees were growing at the founded , but said nothing . bottom , from which it derived its name . Thursday , June 7 .-- Our trail led us We were lucky in getting over and find about twelve miles over the bluffr , which ing a nice camping place at the bottoin on here approach the river , which we struck the west side near some fine springs . We again an kept up seven miles and found here several lodges of Sioux and camped awout six o'clock . There were free trappers with their dusky wives . slight showers , but not enough to in . We were all gratified that this great and terfere with our traveling . We found dreaded obstacle was passed . The delay plenty of game and had excellent wood . had enabled our cook to pick some wild We saw near the trail an Indian place currants , which he stewed for our sup of sepulchre . Rude , cage - like boxes per . They were relished greatly . were placed upon posts or stakes four or We made to day fifteen miles . There five feet high , and in them were depos- being po grass where we were , the camp ited the bodies of the dead wrapped in master ordered the cattle to be driven robes or skins . The grinning skulls back on the bluffs about a mile , there to could be seen through the apertures . be kept all night . Two squads of herds They were so made to protect them from men were sent out with them to divide the wolves and coyotas . the watch . Dr. Read had charge of the Friday , June 8. --- About Doon we one and J. W. McCorkle , " of Ohio . the reached Ash Hollow , The bluffs here other . I was detailed with the doctor's come to the river and are gashed by a party . deep ravine , cut out by a small stream , Saturday , June 9. - Just before dark , how dry , but during the winter and vesterdav evening , twelve herdsmen Joa . W. McCorkle , a pio : ieer Con gieseman from California , died on Marcha 20th , al residence of Cor . Roed in Mary . land , aheut miles from THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . equiped for a night , s bivouac , with their There were some cool showers in the guns and blankets , started with over a forepart of the day . The trail was very hundred head of cattle to find pasture sandy , causing the teams heavy work . upon the bluffs . We followed up a deep ' The grass seemed to be all gone and the ravine which led to tie summit of the bold bluffs gave no promises of a supply . bluffs and found an open plain . Mc- The morning's work had caused much Corkle's squad was to take the first grumbling and dissatisfaction . It seemed watch until midnight , and Dr. Read's , to be conceved that our guide was of no from that time till morning . service . He could not tell where grans The Doctor's party , soon after dark , i could be found where more than ten laid themselves down together in a little thousand head of cattle had pastured . hollow to catch some sleep , but a shower It had been several years since he had coming up , they sought shelter in a cave passed over the ground , and many formed beneath a shelving rock in a dry changes had taken place , so that he water course . It was a weird and knew little more of the present state of murky place , tenanted by , we knew not , the country than ourselves . Dudley what , goblins grim , or , what was more drove out of the line of the old train , to be dreaded , slimy , crawling reptiles , and we followed him until just before but in our weariness we cared not so ' night and selected a camping place for long as we were out of the rain . Lying ourselves . It was a pleasant spot on on the clods and stones was not conducive the bank of a small run , leading to the to sound sleep and the the novelty of Platt , near which was wood and fine the situation led to much merriment , so grass , and which we deemed a fine stop that when the call was sounded to turn ping place for to -morrow , for we had out , it found us in no way refreshed . determined to lay over . We made oniy Nevertheless we took our stations around fourteen miles to - day . the herd and patrolled tili dawn . As soon as it became light the cattle Sunday , June 10. --A furious rain commenced feeding again . Having been storm came down upon us last night , driven hard the day before , it was but this morning it was as clear as a proposed to give them ample time to till bell . The sun arose in al f , its glory . themselves thoroughly , but here arose a fringing the bluffs with blue and gold . conflict of authority . McCorkle claimed As we intended to make this a day of that he outranked the Dr. and that he rest , after the cattle were turned out to had the control oť the herd . The Dr. graze , we turned in for a good , long nap . insisted that it was in his watch and It was nearly nine o'clock before we that the herd was in his charge . A thought of breakfasting . The luxury of Berious quarrel arose and bitter and sleep and rest overcame all sensations of angry words passed . Each had their hunger . For inore than a month we had partizans . One set tried to start the been constantly moving , not knowing nerd for the .amp , the other set opposed . in the morning where we should rest at About six o'clock a start was agreed night . After our morning meal was upon , but the clainor kept up , one set over , soine of us sought the Plati and was for hurrying up , the other for mor- took a refreshing bath in its inurky wa . ing more cautiously down the steep de- ters , changed our soiled garments and sent . As a consequence of the feud put them through the wash . They were some of the cattle were crowded otř a neither boiled nor starched , but were as precipice . " e ox was entirely ruined thoroughly rubbed as we knew how , Wei - bout eight o'clock , On our return to camp we found the tach 1 . cook had got over a pot of beans for a THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

late dinner . We had not been able be- Fort Laramie . So far we have not met .fore to bave a feast of this delicious es- with the slightest accident or interrup eulent for the reason there was never been tion . most The health excellent of . all This our prairie party lifehas time to cook them thoroughly . We had agrees with me most admirably . We al ways observed that wherever there was start about 6 o'clock in the morning , a grave at an encampment there were move on leisurely till noon , when we large quantities of beans thrown away , stoppitch an our hour tent , move and are on againat home till . 5 I P. can M. , giving a hint that that edible hall some . hardly realize that I have left home , thing to do with the death of the per- seeing , as I do , constantly around me so son filling it . Perhaps one - half of the many old familiar faces , and talking 30 often about home matters . The doctor reported cases of cholera were really and I have a horse and so can ride oc bothing more than cholera morbus , pro- casionaily into the surrounding country duced by eating insuficieatly cooked ' to hunt or otherwise amuse ourselves beans . witb what can be seen among the wild , glorious scenery of the bluffs . The Platt I walked out among the cattle . They valley is delightful , broad flats , more had filled thenrselves with the rich and than two miles wide , with bold bluffs puuiuve buffalo grass , which was skirting them on either hand . There is abundant at this point , and lain down , ' a broad and well - beaten high way on each bank of the river , both more barking in the warm sun , chewing their crowded than any high road in the cuds -- Dot of sweet and bitter fancies- world at this writing . Mounting a bluff , but something more substantial . They you see as far as the eye can reach , east presented such perfect pictures of real and west , a continuous line of wagons moving quickly west ward . We judge enjoyment that I was fain to lie we are near the center of the grand car down myself upon the soft grass and en- avan . With the exception of the joy the scene with them . There were a Christian Indians at the Mission , we bave seen but two encampments of few birds twittering among the trees them . They were perfectly friendly . scattered along the little stream that we have heard of Do outrages committed ran hard by . So far we had seen few by them , as yet . They all seem to be Enging birdu ; they were created for frightened out of the country . This be ciriiiza ' š aan , ing Sunday , we are keeping it in an ap and are only found propriate manner , engaged only in among his haunts . works of necessity and mercy . After Some Mormons , on their way to the the furious storm of last night we bave Staten , camped near us , and were very had a charming suinmer Sunday . We hope to reach Fort Laramie by next friendly , giving us all the information Saturday . We have had for the last they could in regard to our future route ; two weeks an abundance of fresh meat . thes had counted thus far 2,800 wagons The buffalo beef is mort luscious , on the road . They had in their pos , Weherein could a small not Howerfare better , plucked . I enclose at the essjon some specimens of virgin goid tent door , as a specimen of prairie beau brought from the placers of California . ties . No garden ever presented as rich The sight of this shining ore cheered the a variety . hearts of those who had been lured by While strolling in the vicinity we dis it , and had begun to lament their fol covered a broad - topped scraggling ly . They kindly consenied to deposit ash , any missive I might wish to send home standing near the bank of the river , thai attracted our attention by some dark in the first post - ottice they reached , and I clumps among its branches . On making wat down and wrote as follows : a close observation we found that they IN CAMP , NORTH FORK OF THE PLATT , ! JINE 10 , JNHS . were the skeletons of a large and small DEAR FRIENDS : - We are now 4-0 Indian -- probably of a mother and chi ' miles from Di. Jo , and 120 miles below - wrapped in robes and lashed and m THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . fast in the crotches of the tree . It , what were they to do ? We were pow . seemed a novel mode of burial , but erless to afford relief , and could only preferable as a protection from the give the poor unfortunates a few kind wolves to the frail cages on stilts passed a words and a sympathizing tear . We short time ago . One suggested that it was then sadly hurried from the melancholy a wonder that some of the " holier than scene after our moring train . I could thou ” saints , who crowd the front seats not but suggest to the Doctor , as we sor in the synagogue , had not taken the rowfully wended our way , that whatever hint and provided that their velvet- ills and misfortunes might fall upon us covered caskets should be hung upon a we surely ought to be able to bear them tall pine , on the summit of a lofty moun- uncomplaivingly , for they could by no tain peak , so that they should be the possibility be as grievious as those that first to hear Gabriel's trumpet and crowd poor woman must endure . We made first through the gates of Paradise . nineteen and one - half miles .

CHAPTER X. Tuesday , June 12 .-- There was a heavy ONE MORE INFORTUNATE ACCESSIONS rain storm last night . Our old train FROM THE OLD TRAIN PIONEER POST | can , ped last night dear us , and this COACHES COURT HOUSE ROCK morning when we started , Dr. Budden , CHIMNEY ROCK - SCOTT'S BLUFFS — SAD the camp master . with three wagons , STORY --- STORM WITHOUT AND WITHIN . drew out from the train and joined us . " The setting sun with dying beam We found the road quite bad - muddy " Had waked the purple hill to fire , and sandy , making our progress slow " And citadel and dume and spire and laborious . For the last three weeks " Were gilded by the far off gleam : we have been watching anxiously to see Monday , June 11. – Started in good the grand Pioneer line of post coaches , season , and for fifteen miles found the six - in - hand , dasb by us . Some great road heavy and quite sandy . The coun- stage men of St. Louis had organized try looks parched and barren . The this line of coaches , with all necessary bluffs seem to be crowding upon the appliances , promising to land their pas river on bcth sides . Sickness is report- sengers on the Sacramento in about six ed among several trains , and some emi- ty days , at the charge of $ 200 each , grants have died . At noon I went with payment in advance . Their passengers the Doctor to see a poor man who had were all to he of the first - class -grass met with a serious accident . We found widows , gamboliers , bankers , brokers him lying in a tent , surrounded by his and young men of fashion . They were wife and several small children . He to be attended by rkillful valots , etc. The was emigrating to Oregon . Carelessly grand train was to leave Independence stepping on the wagon tongue , he slip . about the 15th of May . I presumptuous ped and fell and the wheti ran over , or ly , at Independence , assumed to advise upon , bis head , and fractured his skull . two young men from Ogdensburg , who The Doctor prononnced his case hope- proposed to take this conveyance , to be less , and said that he must eventually cautious in making their contract , and die , as nothing could be done for him urged that they keep back the larger here . The man was not to be thought portion of their passage money to pro of - his troubles would won be over - but vide aguinst the contingency of the that poor woman and fatherless children , proprietors ' failure to carry out their in the midst of the wilde without agreement , as they could have no legal home and friends , no qundred redress on the plains . They did not re miles from the near --Iter , I ceive the proffered advice with much fü 36 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

vor and replied that they had been ad- ! more than five miles , so deceptive are vised by the first men of St. Louis , who distances in this clear and rarified at knew that it would be perfectly safe for mosphere . This mass of indurated clay them to rely upon these gentlemanly ; stands alone on the plain . It has much contractors . I was anxious to see them the appearance of an old tower or ruins , and apologize for my impertinent ad- as you approach it , and no doubt was vice . Dilligent inquiry fails to afford once connected with the bluffr . We me any information of the coming train . found it cut and scarred by the wind I was to - day particularly reminded of and rain into a thousand fantastic the affair by seeing pass gaily by a well shapes . With a little imagination , we rappointud buggy , drawn by a spanking fancy a dome and porticos , balls and bay with plaud equipments , in which , pulpit . We amused ourselves for an riding at their ease , were two gentlemen hour or more in scrambling over and in black , with shining silk hats , glitter- ' tbro ' this wonderful freak of nature . It ing guard chains and massive finger is something over a hundred feet in rings . I did not know but they were beight and covers nearly an acre . It re the advance - couriers of the grand turn - ' ceived its name from the early royageurs out , but learned they were of the frater . ' from St. Louis , from a faucied resem nity " who wil not , neither do they spin , ' blance to a well - known structure in ( except the wheel of fortune and the ! their own city . During the whole day roulette ) yet Solomon , in all his glory , ' Chimney Rock loomed up before us like was But arrayed like them . " and were a beacon . The road was sandy and bound for the Fort to interview the of . swampy in places , The country zeemed ficers and such friends as might desire to be more broken and barren , but in ap to witness their skill . Some young fel- pearance more beautiful . Weencamped lows with us , worn and travel - stained , early , upon the banks of the Platt , but seemed inclined to envy the gamy but . ' not far from the rock , having made terflies their easy , luxurious life . I twenty miles . I rode out to this famous could but say to them : “ They should land -mark . The column did not appear rathes envy you Your horny , grimy to be more than fifty feet high above the hands give greater promise for the fu- mound which forms its base , and is ture than their gold and glitter . They composed of indurated cle of a buff will either die with their boots on or end color , quite soft and easily cut with a their days in the penitentiary or alms- kuife . We cut the initials of our names house , while your wils will be rewarded upon a smooth place which the rain in a with a competence and a peaceful and short while would eras . It is supposed happy old age . Such are the lersons of that this column was much higher and life . " About three o'clock it com- larger . Old travelers have put its menced raining , and we were compelled height at two hundred feet . There is to camp opposite Court House Rock ( 50 no reason to doubt that this column of called . ) having made only 12 miles . This earth once belonged to the bluffs which strange formation , at this point , resem . ' are very near it , and by tine and the bles in its outline very much the famous assistance of the elements has been Sirling Castle , with its turrets and bas- worn into its present form . When ap trous in the centre of a vast plain . proaching it , it takes a variety of forms Wednesday , June 13 .-- I set out with -sometimes that of an old ruin , then a some companions to visit the Court very sharp cone ; but , after all , m . House Rock . It seemed to be only a short the shape of a chimney than anyt ! distance , but we found it a long ride- else – hence its name . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 87

Thursday , June 14. - Started at five and picturesque bluffs in the neighbor o'clock . The road was fine , the wind hood of his lonely grave , bear his name . steadily in our faces and the dust very ! While they last this melancholy tale disagreeable ; the scenery was magnifi . will be repeated . For the sake of hu . cent . We made a very long drive , and manity , would that this shocking and were nearly twelve hours on the road . disgraceful story were blotted out for . The sun went down in a flood of glory ever . After the long and tedious drive I never saw anything finer . We camp- of twenty miles the cook was in no ed in the neighborhood of Scott's Bluffs . pleasant humor . Like otheis of the i They are bretling cliffs of indurated same fraternity , he stormed about the clay , bearing resemblance to towers , house and chided roundly the soullions castles and fortified cities , and received for their delay in getting wood and wa . their name from a melancholy circum- ter , not considering that it was a most *** stance , A long time ago a party of difficult task to perform . It was more trappers , descending the river in their than the Doctor , with his irascible tem frail cances , were overturned and all of per.conld stand . Consequently , there was their powder spoiled . Their rifles thus a verbal explosion of the most direful and being rendered useless , they were un blasphemous expletives that would able to procure food . After suffering have charmed to quiet a growling griz extremely , they arrived at the Laramie zly . There was a storm brewing in the Fork , where the fort now is , about sixty w.st , and in the evening we were greet a miles distant . Here , one of the party by ed with a heavy thunder shower . the name of Scott was taken sick , and Friday . June 15. — The darkest and his companions came to a halt until he roughest night will often be followed by should recover . While searching , the brightest and cheeriest morning . Haber around for edibles they discovered the sun rose majestically , and poured portar the trail of white men who had evident- its grateful beams over the wide land . Media ly but recently preceded them . By a scape . Past tribulations were forgotten . Dreng forced march they might be able to ' and drooping spirits were infused with overtake them , and thus be able to reach hope . As we rolled over a rather high kha the settlements . should they linger ? bluff , we caught sight . for t e first time , All might perish from exhaustion , Scott of a great mountain range , Laramie peak was unable to move , and they were tou of the Black Hills , a spur of the Rockies . feeble to aid him forward . They deter - ' about eighty mlies distant . The scenery mined to abandon him to his fate . They from this bluff is very beautiful . pre slipped away and overtook the party . Renting to the view mountains , hills and but concealed their bane desertion of a valleys in every direction , changing the comrade , alleging that he had died . outlook entirely from that which we had On the rasuing summer therh very indi . been so long accustomed to , and con . viduals , with othera , camr suddenly up . vinced us that we were in reality ap . on the bleached bones and grinning proaching the Rocky Mountains , so long skull of a human skeleton which , by talked of . I do not know when I have certain signs , they recognized as the re- witnessed a more beautiful sight . The Inains of Scott . This win sixty long road from here began to gradually de miles from the po they had scend until the close of the evening . abandoned him d that when we arrived at Horse Creek and the wretched m ut im- i encamped for the night , having accom mense distance at an plished sto - day twenty miles , and by end to his exis wild been ten hours on the road . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

CHAPTER XI . prepared for the enjoyment it brought . OLD PORT BERNARD ROBIDACX TRAIN Our cattle luxuriated in the finest of PASSES -- BUFFAIO GNATS – DOG STEW pastures , and one week's washing was -ABAD FORD TRIBULATIONS OF DR , accomplished in good order . One of our HARVEY SAFE DELIVERANCE -- FORT hunters killed a brace of dogs , and we LARAMIE - IT8 FORMER OCCUPANTS – I had them stewed for our dinner and WARM SPRING -- WASTON WATSE found them quite palatable - in fact , WRECKS AND WAIFS . they were excellent . It matters pot “ Bewere of desperate steps : the darkest day wbat you call a thing good or bad -- the Live till to morrow will have passed away . " proof is in the eating . Perbaps some discontented , croaking traveler may Saturday , June 16. - We left camp note , among the sufferings and priva #tex o'clock . The roads being smooth , tions of this trip , that many were driven we made twenty wiles by half past three , to devour their dogs ; but these prairie when we reached a beautiful camping dogs are of a very different breed from place or the banks of the Platt , where , man's faithful , trusty friend . Our old opce stood old Fort Bernard , and then Robidaus train passed our encampment hulted . AU that remained of the old on their way to the Fort , where it ex fort were the piles of stones that were once used in the chimneys in umes pected to camp for the night . The hills gone by the voyageurs courier - du - bois alwut us looked barren and desolate , but the valleys produce fine grass * -free trappen aud mountain men - hekel bigb carnival , when they met ko dispuer , Monday , Juue 18. --The morning was of their prepler148 or enter into au engage pleasant , and our teams , after a day's ment to carry supplies to the Colorado , rest , proceeded so rapidly over the san the Colunina or Saskatchawan . The dy road that we reached the ford of weather was warın , and we suffered Laramie river before it was quite noon . somewhat from the Buffalo gnat , a most . This stream , about fifty yards wide , insignificant creature , but none the less flowed over a pebbly bottom , was clear . annoying . They were so exceedingly quite rapid , and in places , deep . In small we did not discuter them in the fording , some judgment was required to Aying dust of the road until we reached follow the trend of the rifiles where camp , and then many complained of there was less water . Brower went eruptions on the back of their Beeks over without so much as wetting his and on their teft ears , and supposed wagon body . He was followed by the them to be the result of plant - poisoning . wam of the Canadian Scotchmen , which but we found that they had been pro . was driven by Dr. Harvey , a friend of duced by the bite of this infinitesimal theirs , who , in consideration of medical There being a steady breeze and other services , was to be carried from the northwest , they could only through . The Dr. was inexperienced find a lodgment on the breward side of aud unskilled in wood - craft practice , ar berks and facrs . I found also that bowever skullful he might be in the med . they settled on the breast of my hore jeal role , and therefore failed to keep and made quite a sore . We foued it the track , and got into deep water . The it greatly to our advantage to travel in result was a serious wetting of the pro * small squal . We could make better visions and stores of his patrons . Im time , and more rewwily find a good camp mediately after crossing . we halted for ing place our usual nooning , and those of us ut Sunday , June 17. - Another welcome had no special duties on hand , hur day of rest came , and we were fully up to take a look at the old fort a Want door eigen an ron

THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . surroundings , half a mile distant . There to do ? We were all touched with his was a crowd of other emigrants there desolate situation . It was settled at before us . I gleaned the iollowing facts once . Our mess was not large and we on my brief visit : Fort Laramie was had plenty of provisions . Dudley seized formerly known as Fort William , so the doctor's trunk and threw it into his named from William Sublett , a cele - wagon , and Dr. Read the balance of his brated Fur Trader . It was one of the effects , and loaded them in ours . So he posts established by the · American was provided for , better than before and Fur Company for the protection of so , what at first seemed to be a misfor . their trade . It is 639 miles from Fort tune , was really an advantage , for now Leavenworth . Its walls are built in the he was relieved from duties that he was usual style of such structures -- of adobe , illy calculated to perform . His very or unburnt brick . It was only a defence helplessness proved his protection . Im against Indian attacks . The Fur Com- mediately , the crder of march was given , pany had recently sold it to the U. S. and the Scots were left behind to repair Government , and the engagees of the damages and shirk for themselves . We company , when we arrived , were tem- pushed on about ten miles , in the after porarily encamped near the ford , having noon , and camped near a large spring . just surrendered the possession of the Tuesday , June 19 - We turned aside post to the government troops , whom this morning , at a magnificent spring , we found engaged in preparing for its near the trail . The water , pure and extension and the erection of additional crystal , comes boiling up from a gravelly quarters , under the superintendence of bed , sufficient in quantity to form a re Lieut . Woodbury . It is at present gar- spectable brook . Įts waters are soft and risoned by two companies of Infantry quite warm . The road to - day has been and one of Mounted Rifles , under com . quite rough and broken . We have mand of Major Sanderson . The habitues crossed repeatedly fine streams - well of old Fort William were wild and wooded - and are rapidly approaching rough looking customers , so begrimmed the Black Hills , a much dreaded region , with smoke and dust that their nationali- Laramie Peak now looms gradually up ty could not readily be determined . The in the distance . Made eighteen miles . elevation of the country has increased considerably since leaving Scott's Bluffs , Wednesday , June 20. — The roads again and everything indicales a nuch dryer rough and broken . We have crossed atmosphere . The soil around Laramie several high ridges , and made some sems to be sterile , owing , no doubt , to abrupt descents , requiring much care the extreme dryness of the air and the and labor . On those ridges were scat absence of dews . When we returned to tering pines of inferior quality . It has our company we found a great commo- ' been quite cool , satisfying us of our high • tion . The firey Scots were greatly en- elevation , and thut we are rapidly raged at the unfortunate blunder of their climbing thy backbone of the Continent . driver , and would listen to po explar : a- , We encamped on a most beautiful tiou or apology from the unlucky doc- stream , called the La Bonte , having tor . They threw out his trunk , bis made twenty miles . Learning that a books and other traps , and refused any party camped near us had a copy of the longer to carry them of maintain him . “ Mormom Guide , " from Council Blaff's The Doctor was in sir . No wonder . ' to Salt Lake . I called at his tent and Among stran heart of the found a very agreeable man , with his great wilder money or family , emigrating to California . I was means of tra 1 was he ' kindly invited to sup with them , which THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

I did . After supper I was furnished I wear in rain and dust had given it en with a candle , and sat down and copied tirely another color ; his white felt hat , into my note - book the entire itinery softened by many a shower and long - from the La Bonte to Salt Lake City , Used as a night - cap , had become limpsey from the pamphlet . for our use . It was as a rag . At the noun halt the doctor ten o'clock before I had finished my was accustomed to bunk under the tanks . Below will be found a brief speci- wagon for his midday siesta . While men of that admirable memoranda : ! thus to - day in dreamland , sawing bones River La Bonte - Good place to camp . and paring sealps , a genteel looking To brabch . 5 miles : tw small creek . 64 stranger came up and inquired if this mules ; poor chance to camp . To an was the train of the New York doctor , other small creek , $ mile : w La Perle and on being informed that it was , River , 14 miles : good cainp ; wo small creek , 41 miles : no campingi w Bus stated that one of his friends , a few Elder Creek , 1 mile : not much grass ; miles in advance , was very sick and to Fourcbe Boise Run , 31 miles : good needed very niuch the services of a phy grass : to North Fork of the Platt , 4 sician , and that the New York doctor mules : no grass Rindy road . ; to Deer i Creek , 5 miles ; lovely place to camp . was recommended and he had came for him . The doctor was at once roused Thursday , June 2 !. -We are now in from his deep sleep , and came crawling . a very rough auntry , and the roads ex- hall dazed , from under the wagon in bis ceedingly The rocks about the dark rugged regimentals ? hard and . The trail are fere zinnus and crumblo into stranger's jaws fell in mute surprise . 8 fine , red impalpable dust , very disa . Instead of a round . dapper man , with I greeable to pass through . The sun is smoothly brushed silk hai , a gold came out bot and blistering . We have headed cane , heavy watch guard and a be passed many fine streams , but failed , on massive groll ring . there stood before camping , wind either grass or * him the peer of the most ancient ter , having travelwd twenty - two miles . mountaineer of the wilderness , The road is strewed with provisions , shaven and unshorn But few a which have been cast out to lighten words satisfied him that nutward ap . loads . One vagabond who had an over pearance are no indication of the inner supply of sugar and coffee , instead of man . The doctor at once rode off with placing them where they might do some the stranger to administer in the sick body good , scattered these desirable ar- patient . He returned at night . well acles , as he went , in the dust . Such a satisfied with ! .is day's iabor and the re wretch richly deserves starvation . At lief afforded the suffering emigrant . every camping place can be seen stacks Notwithstanding the neat and hard of bacon and beans , with guns and cast roads we made twenty - two miles . off clothing . The wandering Indians , CHAPTER XII . on their return , will find here abun . ANOTHER HUNT - GRAND SCENERY - WELL dant plunder , withou : risk or wil BROKEN HORSE -- THE WISCONSIN PUBLI and perhaps some hungry way . C'AN - DISAPPOINTMENT -- OUR CATTLE farers following . may be thus sub- : DEER CREEK -- RCDE FERRY -- ACCOMMO . plied with this manna of the wilderness . DATING CAPTAIN After leaving Fort Kearney , the docwr , " l'p the Rocky Moutain height , not being over particulars in his toilet , Now our camp fires blaze by night : at any time , cast off his cumbersome Or upon the savage plains they gleam . cont and wore instead his Cantu flan Now the weary trampers pass , nel undershirt . It was tied with tape in Where the frowning canons mass . Or we swim or tord , the swiftly runin . " front , and once was white , but a months streams . " THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

Friday , June 22 .-- As soon as the train | I ate , whether meat , bread or dried fruit . was in motion this morning I set out If he raw me eating he would come up with Harris , the hunter , in search of and demand his portion . If , while rid the Big Horn or Rocky mountain sheep , ing , he detected me munching a biscuit which were reported to haunt the rocky or cracker he would stop and turn M ridges of the Black Hills . These animals his head around for a share . The seem to be a cross between the deer and roads to - day were reported exceed goat . They have immense curling ingly hard , rough and dusty . We horns , precisely like a ram's , but very camped on a charming little river called much larger . Tney are somewhat Fourche Boise , having made only four shorter in limb and stouter in build teen miles . Our Wisconsin friends found than the deer , which they ntherwise re - camped here an old neighbor , who was semble in color and appearance . Their quite a character . From them I learned flesh has the same flavor . They seem that he was a brother - in - law of the late to be more wary and shy in their habits , Governor Boggs , of Missouri , who emi . seeking the most desolate canons and grated to California in 1846 , and was now inaccessible cliffs . They can climb supposed to be the possessor of great where mortal feet would hardly dare to wealth . Our neighbor had acquired tread . Harris bad luckily killed one a some celebrity and much wealth as a few days ago and thought likely he keeper of a country inn . His immense might get another . Although our hunt size and fair round proportions was proof proved frutless , I had a most glorious that he dispensed jolly good ale , besides ride and scramble over broken rocky other good things . His weight could cliffs and through dark and forbidding not have been less than fifteen stone and canons . Rock was placed upon rock , his age was , at least sixty . Neither split , broken , and scarred . This may weight or age were proof against golden have been the battle field of Jupiter allurement in his case . Some wiseacre and the Titans of old . We seemed at would say , what could he do in swimming times to be on the crest of the world and rivers , climbing mountains , chasing buf our vision was unlimited , mountain , plain falo , gathering fire wood , lugging water and valley on every hand were spread and herding cattle . He couldn't do it ont before us . What I saw and enjoyed at all , but with his ample means he had here to - day amply paid for the thousand endeavored to provide for these inci . mile journay . I could have gathered dents . He had provided for hiinself a bushels of crystals , cornelians and gar- large wagon , with a very thick blue nets , had I had with me facilities for car- cover , iinpervious to sun or rain , con rying them away . Charley followed nie taining a comfortable couch , a large as readily as a dog , over rock and clitr chair and all conveniences for getting and through the most difficult defiles . in and out of the great wagon . When Wherever I went he would go without he reached terra firma he had to have a the slightest hesitation , It may seem chair to sit in . He had a man and a boy incredible that an incorrigible mustang wdrive his team and wait upon him , without receiving a choking , a blow or a He had provided another extra team and kick , should become as gentle and con- wagon to carry the necessary baggage fiding as a lamb , be it was nevertheless and additional supplies . He had en . true . I could ithout bit or trusted this extra wagon to the charge bridle with ľ wood or of a neighbor , in whom he had great brush , direr h my feet . confidence , who was without means to He seemned anything reach California . He bore the singular THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

ied from name of Mathew Mattocks . He was to sive that something had happened to our travel in company with the old man and company , or that they bad missed the CONE aid and asxist , in all matters , his gond trail . We started on the back track , hik patron . A few days ago however Mat . and soon met Bid well , who had come in terki finding that others were throwing , search of us , and learned that the train mod away their extra lading , so as to increase had encamped about a mile back on the their speed , concluded to do the same , bank of the Platt . Dudley was enraged , CI drore ahead , leaving the old man w and berated Bid well soundly for having follow as twst he could . When we encamped without his orders . Biuwell ca w him . Mattoeks was heard of about a ' endeavored to explain that the others Il day's drive in advance , and on expre - s- insisted upon camping , and he had no dila ing our indignation at such shabhr treat knowledge that we had selected a camp , bori ment he replied . “ Ah . yes ; if there in but that did not appease him . Dudley in . lear hair on a dog this trip will bring it out . sisted that Bidwell should have driven on the a Saturday , June 23. -The grass seems to and left the company I was as much be growing scarce and a drouth ha- fairly disappointed as Dudiey , but I well knew commenced . Ithok of the poor animals no one was to blame , and that it would in that must sufler . About soon we do no good to make ourselves uncom cpu * crossed Deer ( reek , a most lovely stream fortable about it . Owing to the poor of clear crystal water , bordered by oak tempus of our cook , our supper was a and aspara groves . The wouis were filled gloomy ope , not withstanding we had a as pran with campers and presentert a brisk and very comfortable camp . We made to besis lively appearance . An extemporized day only fourteen miles . We passed smith sbop was running , shoeing oxen many wagons broken up , the spokes of and horses : Wagons were being repaired the wbevis having been taken to make velit Suwe were washing and some mending : park nad lies , and the rest burned . The gebote in fact almost everything was going on . Mearl has been literally strewn with arti ise Not far from here is a winporary ferry cles that have been thrown away , con across the Platt , and some are prepar . ' sisting of bar iron , black - smiths ' an vils , ring for the passage I was anxwus to bellows , crowbars , drills , augers , gold pro camp here over Sunday , but the rest warhers , axes , lead , trunks , spades , bak · thought we could not afford the loss of ing ovens . couking stoves , kegs , harness , e bele a half a day , and so we pushed on clothing , bacon and bread . Every day Towards night Dudley and myself one could stlect from the debris a com . bele walked ahead to select a cozy camp for plete outfit . This comes from over - load Sunday . As we walked and talked , we ing with materiais not indispensable . tuok little note of distance . At last we Sunday , June 24. - The day has been discovered just off the road a grove of bright and pleasant , and we have en cotton wood on a point perfectly level , joyed a good rest on the banks of the We jutung out into the Platt . made by de . Platı , here & broad , deep and rapid river . birine posits from previous overflows . There very muh like the Cherung in a frou . was a fine , grassy slope , em stily shorn , In fact , there is now a flood in the Platt We selected the ground for our tent and from the melting snows from the distant gathered wood for our fires and sat mountains . Among our Wisconsin down and discoursed pleasantls of our friends there is a baker , who bears the good fortune so far , in tinding everything significant name of Luinp . He had pro for our comfort and convenience . We vide himself with a small sheet - iron waited and waited , but no teams made stove , and instructed us all in the mys their appearance . The shades of night tery of making soda buscuit . He } ; were falling , and we became apprehen- kindly allowed us to use his stove THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

casionally for that purpuse ; so tha : if he sies , and give them a goodly supply of was not exactly a lamp to our feet , he milk for their table . Monday , June 25. - Bright and early was , indeed , a light to our digestive or we pushed on twelve miles , and con gans . We had for our dinner to - day cluded to cross the Piatt , at a temporary snda biscuit and a nice soup of ground ferry established by an emigrant . The squirrels , or gophers . ( a little burrowing ferry boat was constructed of three ca : annimal , found in abundance on the noes , rudely dug out from cotton - wood sandy plains ). We rxamined our stores , logs , and fastened side by side by hewed and repacked our luggage , to be pre - planks , firmly pinned to the tip of the pared for ferrying the Platt We antic- bow aud sieru . The wagon was lifted ipate another week's heavy work . The in , and the wheels rested in the outside rough roads and scanty pasturage begin canoes . The raft was just wide enough to tell upon our patient cattle . They to hold a wagon . This rude craft was bend to the yoke with a will when called drawn back and forth by a rupe stretched upon , and must faithfully perform every across the river and secured at the ends labor imposed upon them . Dudley has to either bank . A yoke of uxen on the the finest team . His wheel cattle , a ' opposite shore drew the loaded boat over . pair of the largest size , stoutly built and When empty it was drawu back by perfectly white , are a full team of them- hand . The emigrant who constructed selves , Ais leaders are highter and it , when he and his friends were fei ried cherry red , carrying their heads high , over , sold out to the next comer , who , and with a cheery air , step as lightly as ' when his work was done , sold out to the if only out for a lark . Their light , airy next . We bought the craft for seven movements are a pleasure to behold . dollars , but we were destitute of rope , Our wheel oxen are not so weil matched . the one in use belonging to one Capt . One is a dark brown , with those concen- Love , of Ohio , who had shortly preceded tric wrinkles about his dark eyes , indi- ' us , and who was waiting for it , his train cating nerve and spirit He has proved having moved on . On applying to him himself the master - spirit of the whole he kindly consented to loan me the herd , and feeds at the head , where the ropes , upon my promise to bring them choicest grass is found . He bears the on to his train as soon as possible . The name of Jim . ” His mate is red , and of first thing was to swim the cattle over . less mettie , honest and easy going , but A yoke ot oxen on the opposite side was no match for Jim . " His former own placed at the landing to attract their at ers had called him Charley , and the tention , and induce them to cross . We name has beeu retained although anoth . drove the cattle in the water , and they er member of our personnel fainily bore i started off finely . The two heifers took the same title . Our leaders were true , the lead , but with the freakishness of but not fancy . A daily association for their sex , when half way over they two long months with these uncom . turned around , and thus threw the herd plaining , quiet servants , in the midst of in confusion . They began to drift down their toils , and in their peaceful hours of the stream , and some were caught under rest , has awakened such a strong sym . the ferry rope and came near drowning . pathy among us ali heir hruwo They finally reached the opposite shore . sides are not mar . ir goad . and some had to be hauled up the steep They are as doc lambs . bank much to their injury . That jub Our Wisconsin f lent finished . we commenced moving over of one of their t fers . the wagons and plunder , and by three They are as trim lag . ' o'clock everything was safely over the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

raging stream without further accident . king the night . Some of the emigrants At the ferries below us , we learn that a collected this deposit and used it under Bumber of persons have been drowned the name of saleratus for the purpose of in making the passage . We sold onr , making bread light and spongy . We ferry to the next comer for five dollars , I crossed several sharp sand bluffs and making the cost to us only two dollars . ' encamped at night at Rocky Avenue , 1 at once mounted Charley , loaded with having made eighteen miles . While the roper , and hurried on to overtake out berding , this evening . I saw a simple the accommodating ( Captain . I made rabbit Iriding himself under a sage bush . all speed , but it was near night before I As I passed by I pounced upon the little overtook him , having traveled some follow and caught him , thinking he twelve miles , and I would have traveled would make us a nice stew . But as I all night if it had been necessary . I can took him in my arms and found he had never forget such generosity and kind . : a broken limb , which , with his great Dess from a stranger . He refused all watery eyes and palpitating heart , plead compensation . I then returned to my so eluquently in his behalf that I was companions , whom I found encamped fain to restore him to his hiding place . on the road " Go live poor wanderer of the wood and field . CHAPTER XIII The bitter little that of life remains . " THE ALKALI REGION - DEAD CATTLE - How admirably a wise Creator has CAPTURED RABBIT - A LEGAL TENDER- provided defences for the weak as against INDEPENDENCE ROCK --DEVIL'S GATE the strong . THE SWEETWATER - A STRAY BUFFALO Wednesday , June 27. - In crossing a --ICE MINE bluff we saw a iurious sight . A few * Go ye and look upon the land , days ago a thunder storm came up and That lar , vast land that few behold , an emigrant , driving four yoke of cattle , And bone beholding , understand wheeled them around out of the road so That obdi , old land which some call new . " as tu , have the storm on their backs Tuesday , June 26. --We are now in when an electric spark struck them the Alkali region and the roadside is dead on the instant , and there the strewed with dead cauile , poisoned by bloated carcase a lay side by side . The drinking the water . We watch ours fluid probably struck the chain to which clusely to prevent them from getting a they were attached . The driver was draught of the dangerous element . We'uninjured . Such are some of the calan passed many small lakes or ponds , so ities that befall men which no foresight impregnaled with the carbonate and or care could avoid We somehow mis bi - carbonale of potash that the water took our reckoning , and made a very would be longer hold it in solution , and beavy drive of eighteen miles , reaching large quantities are lifted from the the well known Willow Spring after bottom to which it was precipitated by dark . It takes its name from the great the puwers of evaporation , which gues , number of willows at the place . There forward in the dry season . Along the in bere a small spring of fine , pure cold edges of the ponds it was found in broad water which comes from the hills ; it and perfectly white shorts , from one to was far better than any we had tasted two inches thick . very much resembling in sometime , and the poor anupals were snow , raised in broad cakes after it had allowed to drink their fill . The i teen first liguy strewed upon the was clear , cool and the sun surfare , in the afternoon of a warm brightly . winter's day and then been frozen dur . ! Thursday , June 28. - We MEMERINOMOR

NORTHDAST

THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 0

among the mountains , which loom uplated in the crevices of the rock . It was around us . The road is rough and I covered with the names of the passing sandy and scores of dead cattle line it . emigrants , some of whom seem to be . Our wheel ox Charlie began to show lieve . says a traveller , judging from signs of failing , and we found an emi- the size of their inscriptions , that they grant who was willing to sell us a fair will go down to posterity in all their yoke of cattle for a stipulated price . proportions . About five miles beyond One of Dudley's wheelers had become a range of granitic hills stretches across lame , so we agreed to try them to - day , the valley , extending to the north . and in case they suited us we were to Through this range the Sweetwater have them . They were accordingly at- passes in a narrow cleft or gorge , about tached to our wagon ; Jim was put in two hundred yards in length , called the with Dudley's great ux and the two re- Devil's Gate . ” The space between the lieved oxen were driven lonse . It was cliff , on either side , did not in some Amusing to witness the spirit of Jim places excel forty feet . It was report and how he would nerve himself to keep ed that the big - horn had been known to up his end of the yoke . We reached the leap this chasm but sometimes had Sweetwater ' at night and camped be- fajled and were crushed upon the rocks neath a rocky bluff , having made eigh- below . A careful examination did not teen milos . The country was sterile reveal any boros or bones at the bottom . and covered with wild sage . We crossed The height was from three to four hun several pleasant streams during the day . dred feet , very nearly perpendicular , I went out to herd the cattle after camp . and on the south side overhanging . ing . At nightfall , when I drove them through this romantic pass the river in , on looking into the wagon Ibra wis and frets over broken massess of found my trunk had been opened and rock that oustructs its passage , afford its contents in confusion . On inquir . ing one of the most lovely , cool and ing the cause the doctor informed me refreshing retreats from the dry and that he had opened the trunk to get the scorching sunshine in the valley . It is gold to make a tender to the owner of difficult to account for the river having the cattle that we proposed to purchase . forced its passage through rocks at this I asked why he could not wait till my point , when a few rods south is an open return . He replied that the owner of the level plain over which the road passes . cattle was disposed to back out , and he It is suggested by Stansbury , that deemed it necessary to make the tender probably when the capon was formed , which the seller supposed he was bound stratified rocks obstructed in that direc to accept and at once surrendered them . tion and that these rocks have since So it is here in the wilderness , men re- disappeared by blow disintegration . It spect the law as they understand it , rather seemed to me that the bill had though there are no courts to enforce it . been rent by an earthquake , and the Friday , June 29. -About eight o'clock water afterwards found its way through we reached the far famed Independence chiff . It was warm and clear all day , with Rock , a large rounded mass of granite in the exception of a slight shower at noon . midst of the valley . I clambered over We passed some fine and rich grazing it and plucked on it a beautiful blue during the day but at our camping place flower and enclosed it in to a on the Sweet water found little . We friend at the east . It i te made eighteen and one - half miles . of vegetation , except ? ! Saturday , June 30. The teams started shrubs growing out o quite early this morning , so as to avoid , 46 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

as much as possible the mid - day beat summits storms and showers are playing . which told heavily on our jaded teams . A perfect stream of emigrants have Miller and I were a little behind , having passed us to - day . - stopped to gossip with some emigrants . Monday , July 2.- Moved at six in the We had in charge the loose cattle . Miller morning , crossed the river four times , had been on guard the night before . and found the fords somewhat danger He and his fellow guardsman built a ous and difficult . The roads were rough pusing fire from abandoned heaps of and sandy . We passed to -day the cele . bacon ( the niglits here are quite cold ) brated ice mine . It is in a bog near the and had eaten largely of it and roasted trail on the open plain . The bog is corn . to pass away the weary hours . ' covered with earth and water plants . After we had travrled a short distance . Digging through this corering about Miller said he was very sick ; he reeled six inches we struck solid crystal ice . like a drunken man . I dirmounted and we chipped off some for our use . I got him on the horse . with his long car - ' thrust my arm down two feet in a : bine , but soon I bucame fearful that he crevice and could feel all the way solid would fall and took his gun and walked ice . How long this ice mine has been by his side . I was grratly alarmed and in existence , no one seems to know . tried to signal our companions who were The Mormon guide , printed in 1848 , some distance ahead , but could get no mentions it . The probability is that a response , so I worried on with the cattle long time ago bere was a pond which in and the invalid until two o'clock when severe weather froze deeply and in the I reached the company encamped for the early spring ite'foods had covered it day at Ford No 2. on the banks of the with a stratum of earth and rubbish , Surpluster . We got the sick man protecting i he ice from the air and sun , into the wagon and the doctor reported and upon which sprang up a heavy coat the case not one of cholera , but simply a of vegetation which furnished still surfrit of corn and bacon . The roads ' further protection . We heard a report being good , we made eighteen miles that a murder had been committed and Sunday . July 1 - Another welcome that the trial was in progreso about ten day of rest . We found fine grazing miles in advance of us Notwithstanding about a mile from camp . and I , with a the difficulties elicountered , we have companion , went to watch the herd . made eighteen miles . While there I left them in charge of my CHAPTER XIV . fellow herdaman and started with my MYTHICAL TRIAL - DEATH OF THE Ox , gun to visit the bluffs , that seemed not CHARLIE - THE GLORIOC'S FOU'RTH far off . I went on and on but they SOUTH PASS - MOUNTAIN FEVER - THE wrned to be no nearer . so deceptive is ' JUNCTION OF THE SALT LAKE AND distance in this clear , transparent at . FORT HALL ROADS - PREJUDICE AGAINST mosphere , and I was forced to give it THE MORMONS -- DISAGREEABLE SABBATH up . On my return to my cumpanion , --- TRAMPS AND WALKERS ' TRAIN I learned that a buffalo bull had come among the cattle and quietly fed with " Tramp , tramp , tramp the trains come marching , them for some time , and then had Westward , si ill westward , day by day ; Standing guard the livelong night , takes himself off . My associate had no By their camp - fires ' ruddy tight , Weapon . and consequently was unable that they may find a home a thousand miles to bag the game that was , as it were , in away . " his hand . Bnow covered mountains Tuesday , July 3 -In order to me can be seen in the distance , upon whose the place of trial , reported yer : THE GREAT California TRAIL IN 1849

to be in progress , I started off this moru- ciates , that for a thousand miles had ing quite early , on foot , in company toiled by his side , over mountain , desert with one of the Wisconsin men , named and plain , had gathered around him , manifesting deep sympathy , and when Stone , who was commonly called “ Roll they set w bim breathe his last breath , ing Stone , " for the reason that he had · drifted much about the world and gave utterance to a sad wail . These poor dumb and driven cattl " were not alone " gathered no moss . " He was quite a in mourning the loss of this good , faithful character in his way ; a man of large exo creature . His death was undoubtedly perience and considerable intelligence . caused by an injury received at the He made an interesting companion , and Platt Ferry . No more fitting resting was a warm friend of mine . We would place for his old bones could have been walk and talk together by the hour . found than that sweet meadow on the His family was highly respectable , but bank of this murmuring stream in the through idle and wasteful habits and heart of the Old Rockies . " self indulgence , he had wanted his patri . mony and then became an itinerant Wednesday , July 4. -Our great nation gambler on the Mississippi . Increasing al holiday opened brightly , and our boys years and constant use of stimulants ( we are all boys here ) in commemora had at last unfitted him for that pro- tion thereof , at early dawn fired a rous fession . Resolved upon reform , he had ing salute with guns an 1 pistols . Old started for California , in hopes to earn Father Orren ” spoke bravely . We had honestly , by labor , a competence for buped to do this at the South Pass , the biniself and family . The air was cold summit of the “ Rockies ” so that we and bracing , and in a few hours we had could patriotically pay our respects to made the ten miles necessary to reach the old states we were just leaving , and the place designated , but could find no the new territories we were about en court por pny evidences of a trial , but tering But our progress had been slow simply a report that it was in progress for several days , owing to rough roads still farther ahead . We at once came to and heavy ascents , and that point is the conclusion that this reported trial now nearly twenty miles distant . We was all a myth , or pending in a moot could not waste our tine in idle frolic , court of Judge Lynch's Rocky Mountain however much we might regard the Circuit . This we knew could not be day , so we pushed on eighteen miles , overhauled by any ordinary locomo . and camped upon the Sweetwater . A tion , so we halted until our train caine large bank of snow lies only a few rods up . The road to - day was smooth , but from our camp . Last night was quite quite hilly , so that we only made about cold , and water froze in our buckets , as , fifteen miles , and encamped on the suring us that we can not be very far Sweet water again . The cattle were from the summit . The boys , in the turned vut on a beautiful green meadow evening , got hold of some alcohol , kept in a bend of the river , where there was for medicinal purposes , reduced it with very fine grazing Just before the sun water , and became quite boisterous and went down as I was watching the rumi . patriotic , singing songs and making nating herd , I saw a great commotion speeches . They kept it up quite late , mournful at least they were " going it " when I among them and no ascertain looing . I hurried went to sleep . the cause . If ld ox . Thursday , July 8. - We resumed our " Charlie , " lying *** in journey , and passed over a high and the agonies of d 18SO- I dry ridge that was in most places desti THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

tute of vegetation . At noon we cane for the past week have enabled us to down into an open valley , through enjoy in full , rousing camp - fires , by which the Sweet water flows in a clear . whose cheerful blaze and genial beautiful and swift mountain stream . warmıh our evening gatnerings are that was now beginning to lose itsself made pleasant , enlivened by song and in the many kmail branches that made story . We get no tidings of the Great its head upon its banks were a few Pioneer Line or its gay and festive stunted birch and cotton wood trees . passengers . Here we finded this mountain stream Friday . July 6. - Our descent has been for the last time , and took leave of the i gradual ali day , and the temperature is Waters running to the Atlantic . We decidedly improving . It was , how began in ascend a very gradual vlevation ever , somewhat windy to - day , and the until we reach a broasi and naked plain dust of the road quite annoying . About with high , ruggeri , cold , blue mountain noon we reached the point where the praks to the right of us and the left of trail divides ; that to the right ( the main us , some ten miles distant , and this was one ). pursues nearly a west course to the fammer fruth Park , whose elevation Fort Hall , and is commonly called above the Gulf of Mexico is 7.490 feet Greenwood's cut off . ” The other bears The vegetation was very light , princi . southwesterly to Fort Bridger and Great pally the wildt sage There was a gloomy Salt Lake city . The first , although vastness in the distant prospect and a somewhat less in distance , still has some sense of I on - liness that was really dispir . long stretches without grass and water , iting . not withstanding we were soon to and is really more trying on the teams . drink of the waters that found their The second , even though it was the way to the greatocran of the west . most favorable in every respect , would The arcent i . so gradual that it was not be taken by the western emigrants dithcult to fix the culminating point . I generally , especially those from Illinois , We marle a drive this day of twenty- , lowa and Missouri , on account of their four miles , camping on a branch flowing prejudices against the Mormons , by from Pacific spring . Pacific Spring in whom the name is detest I. and used as the nely land mark . near a range of hills a term of contempt , equivalent to " scal to the right of the road . where the waters awag " They tell a story of a western collect into a small stream , which runs , woman who demanded a warrant from to the west and unites with the Pacific , & magistrate against a neighbor for an Orran through Groen River , the Colorado assault upon her son . The complaint of the west , which falls into the Gulf of was that the neighbor , for some imper California For several days I hare tineuce , slapped th : boy , and called him suffered from the so - called , mountain & damned Mormon . " The magistrate fever , from which persons with narrow deelined to give the warrant , because chexts are rarely exempt . in elevated the assault was so trivial . The com regions , owing to the rarity of the at . plainant urged that it was not the as . mosphere and consequent lack of oxygen . sault that she cared about , but to be I simply feel great lassitude and an called a " Mormon ” was an insult so indisposition to make any severe exer- gross that some punishment should be tion . Numbers are afflicted in the same imposed upon the person who dared to way . I presume mur animals are like . offer it . Either from fear or prejudiena wise affected and I imagine that their a very large proportion of the emigru movements are more slow and painful took the Fort Hall road . As for The evol nights and abundance of furl selves , being entirely free from THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 46

prejudice , we resolved to take the left plains scavengers , and what they cannot hand trail to the modern Mecca , being pick by the way , they can easily beg . anxious to visit the Latter Day Saints . Their numbers have undoubtedly been and test their hospitality . We made a swelled by the vicissitude of the alkali heavy drive of twenty - one miles , in or region and other misfortunes . der to reach the Little Sandy , upon CHAPTER XV . which we camped . POOR COUNTRY - GREEN RIVER -- THE FERRY Saturday , July 7 .-- After a drive of -BLACK'S FORK - UNITAH MOUNTAINS eight miles we reached the ford of the -JIM . BRIDGER - HIS FORT - THE OLD Big Sandy , and a mile below it halted , MESS DISSOLVED - BEAR RIVER - MIL where there was a fine camping place , LER'S ADVENTURE - PEG - LEG SMITH and concluded to stop for the day , as A GRASSHOPPER STEW . there was no other good point for sev " As desert , mountain , rock and sand enteen miles . The country passed ap Comprise the typographic features , pears barren and desolate , and the road There's little left at my command was rough and sandy . Except to paint living ereatures . " Sunday , July 8 .-- Our rest to - day has Monday , July 9. - My companions de not been enjoyable , for our camp has nounce this as the most G.:d-forsaken been most uncomfortable and disagree country they ever saw . Destitute of able . It has been windy , and there is timber , of grass , of game - even water nothing but sand- and all around ur . scarce They cannot see for what pur which is drifting constantly , filling our pose it was raised from the depths of eyes and ears , as well as the frying pan . the sea . They forget that it is not for It is not strange that it affects the tem- us to question the purposes of an all per of the men - marring all good fellow . wise Creator . So far as we know be ship . It is plain that it cannot long re- has done nothing amiss . In his own main without dissolution . It seems good time its worth will be developed . strange , but it is no less true , that very It is not strange , however , that way . many men , under adverse circumstances , worn travelers , facing wind and dust , as are the must orerbearing and implaca- we have to - jay , should complain . We ble , thus increasing their difficulties . followed down the valley of the Big There are others , again , so happily con- Sandy , and near enough to the river to structed . that their spirits rise with water our catile at noon , for seventeen their misfortuner , whose keenness is miles , and finding a patch of good grass , blunted , and even turned to good ac- encamped for the night . Having left sount by the jovial manner in which the main trail , there are fewer teains on they are accepted . Such are masters of the road to interfere with us . themselves and fortune . The great army Tuesday , July 10. - About eleven of tramps , or walkers ' train , as the soli- o'clock we reached Green River , here ; a tary footmen are designated , seems to fine , full and clear stream , about the be guining numbers daily . It is made size of the Tioga , at Painted Post during up mostly by those churlish , querulous the spring freshets . It is the main fellows , who cannot well agree with branch of the Colorado of the West , associates . They fell out risk their which empties into the Gulf of Califor companions , and left ther ip'nia . It is crossed by a ferry established own way as best the by a mormon this spring who has man . They are not alone , ho ged it sucessfully . In the afternoon large nuabers are jum je were ferried over without trouble or doing the very samnet * cident . We encamped about a mile THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849. !

below , having made only ten miles . | upon the feasibility of the proposed The country still barten and road sandy . Pacific railroad of which I had long We have already reduced our elevation been an advocate . I am called upon so much that I have entirely recovered from the moustain fever . almost every day to meet objections and solve difficulties that are raised against Wednesday , July 11. - We kept down my favorite project . So far I have seen Green river for ten miles , and then no obstacle that could not be readily crossed over a dividing ridge to Black's overcome . Tbese discussions , as well as Pork fifteen miles distant , making a others , fully occupy our hours of rest , very long drive for the day . Black's Fork | so that we feel no sense of loneliness or is a tributary of Green river and is a Isolation . We left our camp on Black's charming stream . We encamped on its Fork and in three miles crossed a small left bank where there was abundant , creek which was the last water until we grass and plenty of wood bbtained froin reached the Fork again , some seventeen the willows that skirted its shores . The miles . We then struck into a charming Unitah mountains were distincty seen valley ( in which Fort Bridger is located ) far to the south of us , their snow cover- einbobomed all around with bills . This ed summits gleaming with the last rays beautiful stream winds gracefully of the setting sun . around the outer rim of this valley mak . Thursdoy , July 12.– We broke camp ing a thousand curves like a thread of about seven o'clock , and about nine silver flashing in the sunlight . We en . o'clock struck Ham's Fork , a tributary camped on its banks in a grove of willow The grass was of Black's Fork , a beautiful little moun and cuttua woods . taie bhook , clear as crystal , rattling prime and our hungry cattle are luxu . over a pebbly bed . Its banks were rating upon the rich pabulum . We clothed with rich grasses and fringed have traveled all day in sight of a rug with alder and willow . We kept up xed mountain chain on our left covered Black's Fork and camped on ' it after å with snow . We could distinctly see drive of seventeen miles . The roart the lightning play and the rains pouring was uneven but not bad . We crossed upon ite vummit , while with us all was the Pork three times during the day . light and sunshine . These sweet babbling brooks have ad Saturday , July 14.- In the Riorning I ded wonderfully to the pleasure of the rode ore to Fort Bridger for the pur . day's travel . giving life and joy to our pose of interviewing that famous heretofore woody and complaining mountaineer , Jim Bridger , who erected company , proving that there are . if we and owned it . It is an Indian trading will but need it , post , situated some seven thousand feet Sermons in stoues , above the sea level on Black's Fork , Boots aa runnisbrooks , which bere branches into three princi And goud in every thing . " pal channels , forming several extensive Friday , July 13. - We anticipated , un Íslands , upon one of which the fort is setting out upoa this journey , being placed . It is built in the usual form of isolated from society , destitute of books pickets , with lodging appartments and and newspapers , and deprived of village ottices of logs opening into a bollow pomip . that we should become nurody square , protected from attack from and silent for the lack of subjects for without by a strong gate of timber . On conversation . But we were mistaken . the north , and continuous with th we have enough to talk about and have walls , is a strong , high picket fer had many discussions from time to time l esclusing a large yard into which THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 51 mais belonging to the establishment are 1887 , and both massacred by the Indians driven for protection from both wild they were christianizing and civilizing beasts and Indians . Near the entrance the punishinent following mistakeu ben . I crossed a small stream at which some edolence . Near noon I nvertook our train . squaws were washing and doing some The road was hard and somewhat rough other domestic work . I dismounted and rolling , but the country appeared there and walked directly into the store more inviting and the grass was fine . and introduced myself to the redoubt . We encamped early on a branch of the able Jim Bridger who received me most Muddy , having made only ten miles . cordially and replied freely to all my Sunday , July 15 , - Another welcome inquiries . He drew for me a map on the day of rest has come around and none rude floor with charcoal , of the great too soon for us , worn by six days of basin , marking the course of the streams hard . and disagreeable travel . Our and mountain passes , showing clearly camping place is in glorious contrast that he had the whole region inaped in with our last Sunday's bivouac . It is his mind . He stated that he could reach in a fine grove of cotton wood affording the Sacramento in five hundred miles ample shade , upon the bank of a sweet travel , but advised us by all means to little mountain stream adding greatly follow the main trail , thougt . much to the beauty and comfort of our situa farther . I listened to him and his tion . A number of Indians have visited fellow mountaineers with great interest us to - day . They express great friend for several hours , discussing matters livess and seem to be peaceable and pertaining to their craft and the perils quiet fellows . We entertained them of their adventurous lives . Bridger is hospitably . Some of our company have a native of the Old Dominon and about purchased of them deer skin sbirts and fifty years of age , tall , trim and straight other pick - nacks as curiosities . As I as an arrun . He had passed the major looked upon these wretched specimena portion of his solitary life in the Rocky of humanity , and thought of the hard Mountains , far removed from all inter- and slavish life they lead , driven by course with civilized society . Some that cruel taskmaster hunger , to feed twenty - five years ago he came to the on snakes and grass - hoppers , I said to head waters of the Missouri and was myself why does not that great humani there engaged in trapping . From thence tarian , Gerritt Smith and his grizzly he wandered south into California , and moss - troopers change their underground lastly , established himself at this place . railroad from the fat fields of Genrgia He had no superior as a trapper and into an overland one to the barren plains hunter , and buld Indian fighter . A of Colorado and run off these starving parative of his rough adventures and slaves to New England and Canada to hair - bredath escapes would fill a volume . be nursed and fed on pap , sangaree and Parker , in his journal of 1835 , speaks of other spiritual comfits . Such a move meeting him and Carson on Bear river , ment would relieve the canting fanatics where Dr. Whitman , the surgeon with of their exhuberant philanthrophy with . Parker's company , successfully removed out causing any bad blood between an ircn arruw from Bridger's shoulder , the north and the south or endanger . that h : upp imbeded for a year ing the peace of the Union . Owing to or nu man once lived in unfortunate disagreements between the Steu married a Miss Docror and Mr. Dudley our old men Nar ttsburgh . They has been dissolved by mutual consent Wert to Oregon in ' to - day , but we are to travel together as THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

before . The old " pardners , ” the doctor , once suggested that ' e needed stiffer Brower and myself , have gone to house ing - that brandy and ice water made a keeping on our own account . happy mixture - Dudley accordingly Monday , July 16. — We made an early drew from his wagon a glass of old start , crossed over a high mountain and Cogniac that he had kept long concealed descended into the great Basin of the in defiance of territorial law . Had it heed West . In the afternoon we reached the suspected that this forbidden arti ford of Bear river , here a rapid moun . cle was in his possession on the tain torrent , flowing North ward . It is Fourth of July by his loyal associates on sixty yards wide and three feet deep the Sweetwater , who were so exceed and at the crossing flows with the ra- ingly enthusiastic on that great day , we pidity of a tail race . When we reached opine they would have felt it a patriotic - the ford the doctor and myself got into duty to have confiscated the contraband . the wagon and Brower mounted Charley goods and mingled them with the waters to ride over by the side of his team , of that mountain stream . Like a ver · when midway of the stream the current dant youth , that brandy had greatly im was so strong that Charley could only proved as well as gained strength by age prevent himself from drifting upon the and travel - Miller drained the goblet cattle by wheeling half around with his without winking - of course he was no back up stream , spreading out his legs i longer wet or cold and was able to take efore and aft as braces . This enabled his place on guard that night . Report Bower to dismount and seize the bow says he was in the best of spirits , mani of Jims yoke w sustain himself . There rested a charitable feeling towards all I was not a moment to spare , the wagon ' mankind and entertained imaginary and cattle were about drifting down Indians pressing on the picket live with stream , on the instant Brower sent forth quotations from Longfellow , Moore and • one of his cheery , ringing shouts to his Byron . Bear river has long been a favor team , when that bully old trump beut ite resort for the sooshones or Snakes . his brawny neck to the yoke with Old Prg - ley Smith had a trading post not . ill and drew alone the dritting wagon far from the crossing . I did not go to to the shore He in fact saved us from his place , but saw the old chap . His being swept to destruction . As suwn as swry is a singuiar one : Some years ago the team had struck firm bottom . ' while hunting on the upper Sacramento Charley gathered bimself up and within a fight with Indians , his leg a few leaps reached the bank . Miller below the knee pas shattered by a ball . had allowed their wagon to get ahead He was hundreds of miles from relief of him and be allempted the passage on and - as forced to amputate his own leg toot , when midway his feet were swept with no other instrument at band than from under him and down the strrat a kufe . a flint and a hot iron . The op he drifud . He was an indifferent swim - ' eration was performed successfully , and mer but managed to keep his head above he is now hale and hearty , stumping water and aroid intervening rocks . On about on a wooden leg . While waiting reabing an eddy a mounted Indian for the team at the ford , I saw some rode in and caught and drew him on his squaws cooking at a tire . Curiosity led me horse and bure him to the west shore , to look into tbe camp - kettle to see what The water was ice cold and when he savory dish they were concocting . It reached land he was nearly frozen . He ' W18 something I had never seen before , caune into camp in a ditapitated condi . a grasshopper stew . I was not then tion , as limpey ' as a warm talkow dip , hungry so I did not ask an invitation bardly able w sland upright . It was at w dine with them . Traveled 20 ini THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 58

CHAPTER XVI . that fewer had taken this route , and in YELLOW CREEK - BEAR RUN MOUNTAINS – case our catlle should fail , we could sell WEBBER RIVER - THE SPEED OF OXEN them and pack through , or " hoof it , " as PURE AIR -- FAVORABLE POR INVALIDS the term is . If we can sell to advantage . - SICK MEN --PRATT'S PASS - FLAP JACKS and can procure borses or mules we shall -THE GOLDEN PASS - GREAT SALT LAKE do so . We hope to gain a few weeks by CITY — A HOSPITABLE FAMILY – THE that mode of locomotion , as the animals MORMONS GREATLY PERSECUTED . will be fresh . The pack trains , however , that started at the same time we did " Not the ship that swirtest saileth , But which longest holds her way : have gained but little on us . It is con . Onwand , onward , never faileth , Orded on all hands that oxen , in the Storm or calm to win the day . " long run . are the best for the trip . It is Tuesduy , July 17. - The road to - day astonishing how well and fast they was fine , but descending among the travel - we can make twenty miles a gorges of the hills rather warm . We day and sometimes more . The doctor took our rest at doon on Yellow Creek , worries about our cattle , fearing that and found springs and water plenty , they will soon give out and laments and the grass excellent . We passed that lie did not take the Isthmus or several Indian encampments . We made Capo Horn route . I assure him , in that good progress and have scored nineteen event , be would have fared much worre . miles . Our pinole stirred in cold spring Notwithstanding his rough appearance , water sweetened , affords us a most re- he has acquired quite a reputation as a freshing and delicious lunch at noon , parrtitioner , no less than three sick men eaten as we would mush and milk . are traveling in our train to avail them Wednesday , July 18. - Dudley's com- selves of his services , so that we have pany drove off and left us this morning . plenty of company . We are now in the quite unceremoniously . We continued Shoshone country , and meet their braves frequently , and they seein to be entirely with the same old crowd . The road was civil and friendly , we have no appre bad and the crossing of the many creeks hension of them . I would not be afraid somewhat difficult . We kept down a to travel among them alone We met ravine for nineteen miles . until we Mormon reached Webber river , here we are en - i to - day a and his wife trave ! ing alone on their way to Green River . camped this beautiful summer afternoon , i under the shadow of a tall bluff . in the Thursday , July 19. - On examining very heart of the Bear River Mountains , our provisions to - day we found them in about sixty miles from the great city of an excellent condition , as sweat and Igo the Mormons , We expect to reach the fresh as when we started . It was ARID city about Friday , and shall spend a few that Indian mzal would not keep for the days there for rust and recreation , among trip . This proved to our satisfaction to the latter - day bainte . So far we have be wholy untrue . Our pork did not got along admirably , found the road rust though out of the brine . On the . reasonably good , grass and water suffi- ! Sweetwater a friend prerented me with cient for our needs We think we are sume jerked Buffaln meat which was in advance of the main body of the emis superior to any dried beef cured with grants , and hope ! Teard from our salt and smoke . It was dried without stock until we ' Tall road salt or smoke by simply hanging under again . We p 1 Lake the ridge pole of his wagon cover . All route , althoug p sey . this is undoubtedly owing to the eral reasons , il : were purity and dryness of the atmosphere . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

This shows that the great Plains are ad- | The cook was an adept in baking them mirable for invalids . We crossed Web- and it was most interesting to watch ber river this morning and in about half the process . He melted a little grease : mile entered Pratt's pass , a narrow in his frying pan , poured in the batter defile just wide enough for wagons to and as it became browr on the under pass through , being the bed of a small side , with a sleight of hand movement , stream and filled with large boulders , the cake flew up , made a complete making very hard traveling . Then we somer - sault came down in the pan again crossed some heary ridges upon which without a wrinkle and in a trice was the road was so sideling that it was with done . In a moment the manipulator great difficulty that our wagons were was ready to repeat the process until he kept upright . We camped for the night had an ample suppiz . After dinner we on Banckman's Creek , a beautiful little pursued our way , passed the last creek stream , having made only fifteen miles . and over the last ridge and struck the Friday , July 20. - Understanding that grand canon through which Canon the road was bad and rough , requiring : Creek flows . The valley is very narrow two days for the wagons to reach the with bold escarpment of rocks on city of Great Salt Lake , Singleton , one either side , scarcely affording space be of our Wisconsin friends , and myself tween them for the passage of the tur started on horseback for the city as bulent little mountain stream , which Doon as we had enten our breakfast . I with its bright flashing waters comes had a double object : First , to see a tumbling with a cheerful merry sound human habitation as soon as possible , through the chasm . There was one with all the good things attendant , and point where it was hardly fifty feet be second , to learn what arrangement could tween the rocky sides of the mountains . be made to exchange our cattle for This is called by the Mormons the horses and get some information of the Golden Pass , ” because it is so admira iay of the land before our team came ble for the defence of their city . A few up . The air was bright , cool and brac- men , in a very brief space of time , ing and we made our way briskly , over could block it up and prevent the pasg . creeks through canons and up ridges . age of an approaching foe . About four Near noon we reached the summit nf o'clock we reached the mouth of the the Wahsatch range of Mountains when canon which opens into a broad avenue a magnificent view of the great basin leading directly to the young city of with its lakes , mountains and rivers Great Salt Lake which now lay before buret upon us . The prospect was grand us and beyond it the broad green valley and glorious , and would well repay the of the Jordan . The smiling fields and denizen of a pent up city , who could blooming gardens , even the smoke grace never catch a view beyond the next i fully curling above cottage and farm block , for a thousand mile journey . house , were most grateful to our eyes . The descent of this ridge was a full mile The sound of the loom , the hum of the and quite smooth and easy . On the wheel , the ring of the hammer and the last creek , not far from the bottom we thud of the axe borne upon the still air found some friends nooning . who kindly were music to our ears . We galloped invited us to partake of their hospitality down the long avenue with the delight which we were not loth to accept . Their of boys nearing bome after a long cook was baking flap - jacks . They are journey . As we reached the best portion bread and meat together , and with a lof the town we drew up before the listie sugar or molasses are delicious . I most respectable residence and appl : THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

for entertainment . It was a small but to join that persecuted sect and cast her neat little brick cottage in the midst of fortunes with it . She had married and fol a rich and flourishing garden - overy- lowed the saints in their hegira from place thing about it indicating comfort and to place until they had finally establish taste . We were cordially and kindly re - ed themselves in this valley . Wherever ceived by the matron within , who con- they went they claim they were perse sented to receive us as guests but stated cuted and harrassed as sorely and per that she was unable to furnish us with sistently as the Israelites or Christians in lodgings . We cared not for that as we the olden time . From what I had seen were well provided with blankets and myself I was ready to credit their story . could bunk down anywhere , by hedge They may have deserved it but that was After providing some fresh and no justification for those professing re succulent cornstalks for our famishing ligeous tolerance . The first Mormon steeds we returned to the mansion and church was organized in Manchester , made ourselves perfectly at home . Our Ontario county . I remember well two hostess , with dispatch , set before us a simple minded young men from that sumptuous meal of new potatoes , green church in 1882 , came over to Prattsburg peas , bread and butter , with rich sweet , to instruct the godly people of that sober milk . It is needless to say that the hun- town in the tenets of the new dispense gry way - farers , who for months had not tion . They were invited by some di seen these delicacies , did ample justice vinity students of the Academy to call to this bountiful repast . The memory at their rooms in the building for the of this feast will live with me forever . purposA of expounding in full their doc It was grateful , indeed , to find myself trine . When there they were badgered once more in the midst of civilization , and mocked - fire.crackers thrust into enjoying real and substantial home com- their pockets , and as they left the build forts . The hostess was assisted by a ing they were drenched with a pail of younger woman , with a nursing child , filthy water . There was no condemna who seemed to be a member of the tion of such outrageous conduct . Boy household but in what relation I had no as I was I felt indignant and could means of knowing . The man of the never respect the actors though they be house , an intelligent and respectable came Doctors of Divinity . It is such appearing mechanic , came in at the treatment that gives growth and strength close of his days ' labor . The family to any faith whether true or false . Dur group seemed entirely in accord and ap- ing the evening's interview I learned parently happy . The evening was passed that the husband was in a prosperous in pleasant and interesting conversa- condition . In the young and growing tion about the church and their tem- city builders were in great demand and poral prospects . I learned that our commanded large wages . Besides his host was a native of Chautauqua county acre and a quarter , ( the amount of land and our hostess formerly lived in Gene- allotted to each house holder in tows ) seo , N. Y. , and hart been a member of was covered with promising crops . A the Episcopal church . While visiting patch of ripening wheat , of growing in Ontario countwale was led to attend corn , of potatoes and garden vegetables the meetin yrmon Mission of every kind . I never saw so much aries and at interested , growing on so limited a space . The which gr camily , they warm climate and constant irrigation treated k . e her from had given a wonderful growth to every home . ly induced i thing planted . Just before dark , an old THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAİL IN 1849 .

blatherskite , & chance acquaintance of reservoir near the head of the canon . ouis on the road , seeing us at the door , It is made to traverse each side of every came in and being destitute of blankets street and cross street , whence it is led asked to be allowed to stop for the night into every garden spot , spreading life and he was furnished with a rug and verdure and beauty over what was here permitted to lay in the summer kitchen . tofore a barren waste . These rippling rills are conducted over each other CHAPTER XVII . where they must necessarily cross , by THE CITY OF THE LATTER DAY SAINTS means of rude little aqueducts of peeled ITS TOPOGRAPHY - WATER WORKS - IT8 bark . They add wonderfully to the PEOPLE - THEIR PERSECUTION - HOSPI - 1 freshness and beauty of the town and TALITY - WARM SPRINGS RELIGIOUS are under city regulations . Once in SERVICES - BRIGHAM YOU'NG - PREPARA four days each lot is entitled to water TIONS FOR A GRAND CELEBRATION . sufficient to irrigate it thoroughly , which " Tet pride and wrath be banished hence , Merkness and love your souls pursue , is done by tapping the street feeder . Nor shall your practice give ofience The city is estimated to cortain about To Saints , the Gentile or the Jew . " seven thousand inhabitants and is di . -W'atta . vided into numerous wards , each en Saturday , July 21 .-- Our hostelry con- closed by a substantial fence to taiped only one room besides a pantry protect the crops . The houses are all and a summer kitchen , so my compan- small and built of logs . adobe and brick ion and myself took our blankets and None are elaborate or pretentious . The found a cozy corner outside of the house , block alope being enclosed , the dwell and enjoyed a most refreshing nights ings appear to be scattered ever a field . rest . After partaking of an excellent The lots being so large the city covars a breakfast we started out to explore the great deal of ground and would misleaut great city . The site is a most beautiful a casual observer as to the amount of one . It lies at the western base of the population . There is a square appro Wabsatch Mountains , in a curve by a priated for the public buildings some of projection westward from the main which are in the process of erection . range of a lofty spur , which forms its ' After strollis.g about seeing the sights southern boundary . On the west it is and gossipping with citizens we went washed by the waters of the Jordan , up to the warm spring , something over while to the southward for twenty - five a mile from our quarters for a bath , miles extends a broad level plain , water . This spring issues from the base of the ed by several small streams , which flow . mountain near the road , in a large vol ing down from the eastern hills , form ume , smoking hot , forming quite a the great element of fertility . The city stream and flows away to tho Jordan . is laid out on a maguificent scale , being A rude dam had been thrown up just nearly four miles in length and three below the orifice , forming a pool about in breadth , the streets at right angles four feet deep , furnishing ample acı om with each other , eight rods in widtb inodations for several bather's On en with mdewalks of twenty feet . The tering the pool at first , the water seem . blocks are forty rods square , divided ed too warm , but after being immersed * into eight lots , each of which contains the sensation was highly agreeable . an acre and a quarter . Every family is There was a strong odor of sulphur entitled to one of these lois . Through about the place . On thrusting the bare the city flows , in a thousand different arm into the orifice the heat was so channels , an unfailing abandance of great as to compel its immediate with pure , sweet water , from a distributing drawal . After a must refreshing bat ! 1

THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . we returned to our hostelry and partook | tiuns and the want of the common neces of a most sumptuous dinner of string saries of life , very many sickened and beans , peas and potatoes , with pie and died . Many of their cattle too were milk . I wanted no ment , my appetite stolen by Indians or died from starva craving only vegetables . In the after tion . The spring , however , was propi . noon our teams came rolling down the tious . Their crops grow amazingly and avenue and we conduoted them to a gave them good promise of an abun smooth plot on the banks of the Jordan dant harvest . But la ! In the the and established our camp and head- midst of their bloom , their came down quarters . On my trip down the Allega- upon them clouds of black crickets or ny river in March , a feilow raftsman grasshoppers , that threatened to destroy gave me the address of his brother a every green thing . These hungry , starv . resident of this city and requested me ing souls were in despair , but a deliver to call upon him . This afternoon I in - apoe came in great flocks of Curlew , a quired him out and called at his abode , fowl as large an a partridge , which soon an humble but comfortable log house . gubbled up the crickets and saved the Ile had no family but a wife . I was in- crops besides affording these poor vited to remain with him over night pariahs , like Israel's quails , a bountiful and concluded to do so . I learned from supply of meat . It is no marvel that this unpretending couple much of the these misguided people should believe sufferings and privations they had en- they were the special favorites of the dured upon their journey and after their Almighty who hard watched over them arrival here . A corps of Pioneers of and performed wondrous miracles for which he was one , in 1847 were sent thir benefit as he did for his chosen peo forward in advance of the main body of ple of old who passed through simtar 1 Mormons , to open roads and find a loca- tribulations to test the strength of their tion for their settlement , consequently faith . his wife was compelled alone to bring Sunday , July 22. - This morning after up the ox team with their household rigging myself to the best of my ability goods . She was in company with other I set out with my Mormon friends for families siunilarly situated . Their stock the tabernacle or the place of worship of provisions was slight and gave out of the saints . This tabernacle or temple entirely during the winter . There was is a very rude affair , being nothing nu game and they could not spare their more than an immense circular shed , cattle , so they had to depend upon erected upon poets , the covering being charity , where it was costly . They sub- rough boards , capable of sheltering ( no sisted mostly upon sour milk and the said ) three thousand persons . It was refuse of some of their richer neighbor's not wholly enclosed . There was a large tables . They were not alone in suffer stage on one side , sufficient to hold all ing , many others were in no better con- the singers , mummers and stage per dition . Thus they subsisted until the formers . The seats were made of slabo vegetables sown the following spring everything in the rough . It is called matured . The story of the persrcu . the Bowery , " and serves as a temporary tions , toils and sufferin * his simple place of worship until the great tem but honest couple w ching ple is completed . This , it is neid , will and showed how I ' n red surpass in grandeur of design and yor . for opinions anke . ! 1c- geousness of decoration all edifiver the ulous it may be n- world has yet seen . When we arrived formed me that pop a pretty good crowd had assembled , and in the valley , owir 4- the brass band was discoursing rude THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 ..

· music on the stage . I obtained a favor- prayer meetings instead of making roads , able seat that gave me a good oppor- | building bridges , getting out timber and unity to view the motley and grotesque raising crops , all of which would in congregation and hear the whole per- crease the church revenues , and aid formance . It will be borne in mind Zion . · He cime down on the female these people are from all sections of the saints savagely for their extravagance country and of all antions , and had for and love of dress and finery , and charged years been driven froin pillar to post , that they would better advance the and for the last two years had not seen cause of God's choren people by prac store or millinery establishment . Of tieng self denial , milking cows and mak course the style of dress was as antique bread and letting their outside adorn and various as the fashions for a half ments go . Then he poured out a perfect century . A perfect conglommorate , rep stream of billingsgate upon the Gentiles , resentang every stratum of society , high the persecutors of the saints , cursed them and low . It was a curious sight to be with bitter curses and called upon God hold . The worshippers bore strong to consume them , root and branch , and evidences of their fanatical craining , send them to perdition . In conclud . solemn - faced , loug visaged , sallow - tanned ing his tirade against the enemies of individuals , such as predominate at the latter day saints , he stated as fol camp and protracted meetings , and anti- lowo : “ Do you know . brethren that some masonic and abolition gatherings , ready of the murderers of the prophet Joseph , to endorse any monstrous doctrine that have been among us ? If I had known any wiley demagouge or , arrant im- it , what do you think I would have done postor shall promulgate in accord with to them ? I wouldn't have hurt them ! their coarne and vulgar notious . Their No. I wouldn't have hurt them ! I would sincerity is not to be questi pned . After have killed them su quick they wouldn't a hymn was sung and the prayer made , bave known what hurt them ! His exhortatians commenced . Phelps , for language was forcible , but of the coarsert merly a prominent anti - masonic editor of and lowest type , in fact blasphemous , Canandagua , delivered a violent philipic such as pot - house politicians or fanatical against the gentiles and the United ranters would entertain their followers States Government . He was followed and admirers with . I was perfectly dis by an old man , an elder or bishop , wbo gusted with the discourse and on meet delivered an exhortation of a religious ing a previous friend , one of the Bishops , character , and entirely unexceptional . I crticised the exhortation unsparingly Then the great Apostle and prophet , the and denounced the exhorter as ' unchris President of the Latter Day Saints , tian in his manner and expression . He Brigham Young , arese and for a half agreed with me entirely , and said he hour delivered a tirade of cant , badder could not approve of the sentiments ex dash and abuse that I would give much preksed . Brigham is evidently a type if I could report in full . He lauded of Mahomet , and resembles in many the saints for their zal in supporting things Luther and Cromwell . An egotist . the church , obeying decrees , paying and sensual , with great will.power , self tiches and observing the ceremonies and confident , shrewd and cunning , he ordinances established by the elders and can always control the weak and super bishop's , and assured them of a certainty suitious . This afternoon there was a that they were God's chosen people and large crowd of boys , rough , swearing mure of a neat in Paradise . He berated and pugnatious , hanging around our en soundly the idle drones who chose rather campment and the bridge over ? to hang . round the street corners and Jordan , satisfying me that the Bab ! THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 09

is distregarded , and all moral training CHAPTER XVI . of the youth neglected , without which no religious community can long be THE MORMON CHLEBRATION THE UNITY maintained . When a traveler can see and AND HARMONY AMONG THE SAINTS hearthe boys of neighborhood he can form ! WALKER , THE UTAH CHIEF - HB a very correct opinion of the character RAYS — A MULE'S FREAKS - DISPOSE OF of the community . In all that was said OUR CATTLE - THE NEW XESS - GREAT there was no allusion to polygamous SALT LAKE , marriages often charged upon thein . ! Lan I can see no evidence of its practice , al Behold how good a thing it is , And how becoming well , though the old blatherskite that stopped Together such as brethren are , at the place we did , mported that the In unity to dwell . man and the two women lodged together Tuesday , July 24. - The day was usher and were married . His reputation for ed in with a great flourish of drums and veracity was so doubtful that we gave trumpets . The thunders of an old iron no credit to his story . field - piece brought back by the Mormon Monday , July 23. -We have not marle Battalion from the Mexican war , much progress in procuring horses but awoke the echos of the mountains . The have done something in disposing of . crowds of saints from the surrounding our surplus stock of provisions to citi- country , came pouring in at an early zens . We have sold them bacon for 10 hour . A procession was formed , headed cents per pound , sugar 8 , flour 8 and by the band and the military companies , dried apples and peaches for 126. These followed by a long array of wagons suplies were a God - send to them . It loaded with men , women and children , was a very low price considering the carrying banners indicating their locality distance they were hauled . It is very and bearing some representation of their warm at mid - day but the cool nigh- , peculiar sentiments . One large wagon which follows , makes up for the extra carried twenty - four young women , in heat . In the afternoon our mess turned white , symbolical of some of their out to assist the Mormons in raising a peculiar tenets . The procession drew Liberty pole for their great celebration up before the Bowery or Tabernacle . to -morrow , the anniversary of their ar . The entire space within was soon Alled rival in the valley in 1847. We also with a motley concourse of men , women have contributed a quantity of powder and children . It was estimated that not for Bring salutes . We are invited guests less than 3,000 were there gathered . I at the grand picnic in the " Bowery . " never saw so many young children in a My old hort and hostess have prepared crowd before . It seemed as if every the necessary viands for the entertain- female . young and old , carried a child inent to which we have contributed in her arms . The brass band discoursed from our stores . The affair is to be con- rude and discordaat muric . A glee olub ducted after the manner of our Fourth sang some uncouth songs . An address of July - salutes , processions , speeches , was delivered giving the history of the toasts and dinners - each family or cir- church and of the final planting of the cle , however , providine for themselves | Mormon standard in this valley , on the their entertainmers 24th day of July , 1847 . The regular THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

tomata were decidedly rich . Being un- | fere with our trades . A young Indian prepared to take notes I can now re brought a horse for sale to our camp and meraber only two of them which were the Doctor undertook to make a pur us follows : " The mother in lamel , fruit- chase . He offered various articles in tal u the vine , you have crowned Zion exchange but the Indian always wanted with your jewelo , dever cense in well more . Finally the rifled pistci struck doing , " and " The daughters in Israel . As his fancy and the trade was made . He your mother's have done ho do ye . " took his plunder and started off , but There was no response made to any of soon came back , someone having advised the tonats and none was called for . him he was cheated , and demanded There was no opportunity given for more . Rather than have any trouble volunteer toasts or speeches . It was ex . with him the Doctor returned the horse clusively • church affair and worked by and took back the goods . the card . We had a most excellent and Thursday , July 26. -We have just . sumptuous dinner and was highly enter- learned that the famous Indian , mose tained with what we heard and saw . I trooper , Walker , chief of the Utes , has recognized many familiar faces in the returned to the valley from a foray into crowd that I had seen at courts and other Mexico , with a large drove of horses and public gatherings in Steuben . Pratts- is now encamped about six miles up the burgh , Hornby and Troupeburgh were valley . It is hinted that the Morions largely represented in the Mormon encourage this great horse thief to make church , their missionaries being quite these plundering expeditions in order to succesful in those towns in making con obtain a supply of good horses at low verta . The whole affair passed off quiet- figures . Jim Singleton , an expert in ly without turmoil or accident . There borse flesh , and myself were at once was no lack of hilarity or enthusiasm , deputed to visit his majesty's court and , and yet there was not a drop of strong purchase such stock as we might need . drink anywhere to be found . By night . After a pleasant ride over the grassy All the streets were deserted except by meadows that skirt the Jordan we an occasional passer , and as quiet as it reached Walker's camp and found the nothing ununal had oocurred during the great chief on the out side of his tepe , day . There is one thing for which these unconcernedly sinoking his pipe . He people are certainly to be commended , was a big - headed , sport , bandy · leged the christain harmony and brotherly Indian . A bold and magnificent horse feeling that seems to prevail among man , his make - up fitted so nicely to the them . Not a breath of scandal or a animal that he might readily be taken word of bickering between any member for a part of it , and furnished a tolera of the society have I heard since I bly good representation of the Centaur have been here . All seem to be earnest of old . His natural intelligence and long and united in enlarging the borders op intercourse with the whites enabled him their Zion . Other sects might profit by to understand English well and drive a their example . Their industry and thrift good bargain . He received us courteous are worthy of all praise , ly and proceeded to show us his stock , Wednesday , July 25. - We have made We had hoped to be the first to inter but little headway in our preparations , view hun , but to our surprise some for our further journey . The saints , other emigrants had anticipated us and like anners , seem disposed to make ell were now attempting to subdue a mag . they can out of us . The price of horses i nificent iron - gray that seemed indisposed las mn up to $ 100 and $ 150 , while oxen to submit to new and strange niasters , are drag . Some are disposed to inter . There were some very fine animals i THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 " } 61 his herd , but wild and unbroken , such plenty of good water . as only could be handled by skillful broad and dreary deperto , womne by far horsemen , such as Vaqueros and Indians than any we have yet traversed and are . Finding nothing to suit us in climb mountains more rugged and dish character or price , we set out on our ro cult than any we have yet encountered . tura . I was riding the faithful Charley We have now seven horses and a mulo . and Singleton a mule for which he had This makes our complement , four for traded 1 serre - backed hot se on Green the wagon , two to pack and two to ride . river He thought then he bad obtained should we be unable to get our wagon a prize . The animal seemed to be well . aorose the desert they will suffice torpack broken and quiet , would work in harness our effects , al hands are busy rigising or under the saddle . As we ambled the wagon fnr the service , making pack quietly and cheerily along over the saddles and doing up the baggage in grassy plain , discoursing of the pleasant compact and convenient bundles . Our scene before us , all at once , without train will consist of but one wagon , warning Singleton's mule commenced a ( quite a falling off from the old Robedaux series of gyrations as if about to make caravan ). Our company of woven , all a hand - spring somersault . The gun told , are united in one sens as followut which Singleton carried went shooting Lamp , the baker and chief cook , the two to the right and he flying after it . In Singletons , Kilbourne , Dr. Rend , Brower his flight , however , he managed to catch and mysell . Our association was a pure the larriat which hung at the saddle- democracy , without bossen , all had an bow so when he struck the ground the equal voice in determining movernenta draft upon it by the rantankerous hybrid and he who was best fitted for the in his efforts to free himself from all position had it by common coneant . ingumbrance , brought him to his feet Brower is to take charge of and drive and by an adroit movement he managed the team as heretofore He is not to trip the mule and in a moment had novice in driving four - in - band . The him in chancery . On investigating the others are to do the guard duty .. cause of this sudden fiasco we found the Saturday , July 28.I had hoped to bits of the bridle tad been broken in two visit Great Salt Lake , from which this and fastened together by a leather string city takes its name . It would take me and thus had been used for a long time at least two days to make the trip , being upon our horses . The mule in champ- twenty miles to the most accengible ing the bite , which were quite loose in point on its shores . I could not find the his mouth , had succeeded in severing time in the hurry of preparation for the pla the leather tbong . As soon as he found continuance of our journey . I gathered to himself free from the hand of a master the following facts regarding this curi . he gave this exhibition of his low breed- ous and interesting body of water . ing . We exchanged bridles and rode to That it was about eighty miles long , camp without further incident . Had from north to south , some twenty - five the mule escaped on those broad plains to thirty - Sve hroad , from east to west , his recapture would have been almost is more than four thousand feet above i delle impossible . the sea level , and has no outlet . Friday , July 87. - It was not without greatest depth is sixty feet , but it u many regrets that we disposed of our generally very shallow , being in many faithful and po we had , how places not more than two or three feet ever , the sa wing that it deep . At one time it must have been was the bes - they will vastly larger than it is now , spreading , find rich p I foud and an inland soa , for hundreds of miles . The THE GREAT CALIFORNIA ' TRAIL . IN 1849 .

water in te nepprently clour , but on salti CHAPTER XIX . sah5 . ' ? . it contains 20 per cent of chloride of sodium to form one of the most con- ALARMING STORIES -LEAVE SALT LAKE centratnd of brinda . Ít stores are very -A SCARE --- MOSQUITO ATTACK - MISS imgular and morphy with occasional OUR RECKONING - A NIGHT OF TRAVEL protintorica jutting into it . It has many STRIKE THE MAIN TRAIL - HEET OLD islanda , the largest of which is Antelope FELLOW WAYFARERS AN AFFLUENT OF Island , about sixteen miles long by five THR : COLUMBIA - THE JUNCTION OF THE in brandth in its widest part . It con CALIFORNIA AND OREGON · TRAILS sitio of a long rocky eminence rising TIME'S CHANGES . 16:48 *** atrapady from the water and attaining Sunday , July 28.We thoughtof com- ! an elevation of 8,000 toer . The southern mencing our march this morning , but part of the island in connected with the knally concluded to defer it tal to -mor main shore by an extensive sand fat row . Many of the saints visited us , whiota in the summer , they for the most ready for trade , seeming to regard this - part dry , taking the island easily ac- in no way different from other days . We detenible from the main land . The whole have heard from time to time that the of the eastern slope affordd one of the Indians on our route had been wronged finest raagus for horses and cattle to be by some emigrants and were disposed to found in the whole valley . Being thus be troublesome and threatening . inundated stafords great comparitive are inclined to believe these stories are seourity from Indian depredation . The set stloat by Mormon speculators to in - l : Inice reminds ano in many respects of duor emigrants to stop over in tbe city the Dead Sea Perhape the resemblance or dispose of their gouds to save them had its inficence lo deciding the Mor from other plunderers . i . mom to settle here , associating the Monday , July 80.- At eight o'clock neighborhood with Judea , and prompt- this morning we bado adieu to Great ing them to name the strait connecting Salt Lake City . . We took the bluff road Salt and Utah data the river Jordan . north toward the head of the lake . Having cloved out our stock we hope to About three miles from the city we of tomorrow so I made a parting passou another boiling spring , discharg call upon my Mnemon friends this after . ing a large volume of water , forming a noon . My friend the Bishop , notwith- considerable stream , and so warm that standing my wevere eriticism upon the our horses at first hesitated to cross it , " exhortation last Sunday , proposed to even at some distance from the orifice make a call with me upon brother Brig- or place of discharge . There , it is said , bune , as the head of the church is usually an egg could be cooked . " We ' passed a designated . I could not play the hypo- I number of comfortable farm houses . crita , and it would not be courteous to Near noon we called at Wykoffe farm exprmais my opinion of bis doings in his and obtained some milk . He was form on honno , so I declined the hovor . erly from Troupsburgh , N. Y. , and I It has been very warm , dry and dusty . noticed his club - footed boys were stump I ww informed , with the exception of a ing about the premises . To the left of alight sbower day before yesterday , no the road we came to a small hollow or rala bad fallen in the valley this sum- basin , hardly ten yards across , in which three springe came to the surface and . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . joined A stream flowing to the lake , one able to protect ourselves or had friende of which was cold , one warm and the in the rear . There were noven of un , other salt , The nearest point to the lake well armed and anywhere exoopt upon passed today was about two milea . thin open plain we could make a good The approach to it was wet and swampy fight against large oddo , As I was so I concluded that it would not be porn dressed in a full trapper's costume , and sible to reach the water . The lake in mounted on our best home , fact is - great shallow marah , whose it was arranged that I should water are depleted soley by evaporation , ride carelessly in advance of the rest and there being no outlet , leaving what when the party were near enough Ishould remains salt from the saline springe to ride forward and give the usual salu .. which flow into it . After twenty miles ' tation in token of ponce and friendship , travel we encamped upon a fine creek believing that course the wisest in our upon which was a large and flourishing situation . Accordingly , when the party farm , occupied by one of the dignita- came within hailing distance , I galloped . ries of the church . up to the foremost man , extending my Tuesday , July 81. - We seem to have right band , as if approaching an old started opportunely from the city , for friend , and hailed him with a familiar we have not overtaken or passed any " How - de - do . " He drow up , took the moving emigrant teams to anog us with extended hand and responded in.a simi their dust or interfere with our choice lar way . The whole band , & hundred of an encampment . It is quite probable or more , surrounded me , and I had to that none started on Sunday and our shake hands with them all . They seemed early start on Monday put us quite ahead to be really cordial and friendly . After , of them all . Soon after leaving the the salutations were over they dashed pleasant and fertile valley of the stream onward like the wind . Indians are bold upon which we encamped last night we riders . ... They were well mounted and struet a broad and sandy plain , as deso- bent on some mischiol , as their war late as could well be . It was partially paint shower , but perhaps not towands covered with scattering trees of some emigranta . We , however , felt relieved size bat all dead and deoaying . Not a when we sa mi their lading backs , and living tree - was anywhere to be seen . inade as much speed as possible to get What could have caused their wholesale over the open plain , leat when thou die destruction was a mystery to us . As covered our isolated , situation , they we proceeded ; a heavy cloud of dust might turn upon us . ' We reached rolled up on the trail about a balf a mila Brown's , at the crossing of the Webber in advance , and seemed drifting rapidly river , a little after noon .. We continued toward us . We were at first greatly va till night , camping on a small . creek puzzled to know the cause but soon dis- of excellent water , having made twenty covered that it enveloped a large war three miles.win party of mounted Indians . From the Wednesday , Aug. 1. The wood and stories we had heard in the city their timber it gradually disappearing . There unexpected approach created ' no little seems to be much less hereabouts ' tham alarm among our small party , but it was on the approach to the city . " Whát at once resolved that , as no way of escape there is is confined to the creeks and seemed open to y sur best policy bireams and the mountain gorgen . ' Ini to proceed ste bold front few years it must all be used in , and and show na r fear 80 then what will the saints do for fuel that whate * might They will probably look for some mira . ' be , they w are well culous supply . We passed yesterday M THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1848 .

the decat Lormon sotilor . We crocodon and a glorias harvest moon lighted maber mallorcelas during the day , w on our coming way . We had already i camped on one fringed with alders for traveled twenty - five miles , over by no thuo night , having made twenty - four means an easy rond , but we were in for milen . We found ournalves in a pickle . it and must make nearly twenty poore All the went down the movqatoce before we oould reach water . I was como down upon a ta myriads . There abend of the wagon with the pack to be no coupe from their vem- horses . They could make better time ! ouad attaataa Bloop will be out of the than the mgon . We alone were mov . ' i question . This is the first time we have ing over the plain and the milence of troubled with thicoe pestiferous deach reigned around . There was not rom It wa woot still night , and even the cherop of the cricket or the moon shinu brightly , hum of an ineeot , and as we silently and but for these proto wo would have followed the devious dusty trail through Nenjoyable time . From the way the hollows and around knobe , amid the bage barned about , nettering direful eternal sage , there seemed to be inoving imprecatione , I fear the recording angel parallel with us in the misty moon will be won buay time it be scorco all the light shadowy horeo - men ms silent as bigo they utter . ourselves About twelve o'clock we · Thiday , Aug. & Yesterday morning came to a comp - fire of mage brush , made Buty , anretreshed we bett our uncom- by some packers who had stopped for fontoblo onmp . reaching at noon Bear the night . They kindly gave us a cup sinnu , hon doap and alaggiato stroom , of coffee and some crackers which was whicho we run fexried over by a Mormon all that we had partaken since lunch at who had catataliabed himself bero for the noon . As the wagon had not came up commodation of the emigrants and we concluded to await here its arrival . his own pratit . In about four miles we We laid down on our packs and soon d . Malade of Romeux river , « forgot wagon , ourselves and all else . Ad Mans river , aloo u mirty slug- At daylight we were aroused by the gial strengt about . rod wide and two packers and to our surpris the wagon deep We moved on through the was not to be seen . We were quite mga bra wiat now universally covers anxious during the night lest some mis the country , expooting to camp on a hap had befallen it , but was more so Sleman women to ton and which was this morning when we could neither see the best water for twenty miles . About nor hear anything of it . Singleton took iz o'clock we come to the dry bed of a horse and started back on the trail , ters , which was about the estimated we in the mean while remaining where distance , but could see no signs of water . we were awaiting his retura . Cor new Others seemed to have camped there be friends gave us another cup of coffee fore , however , but we thought it did which served for our morning meal . In not quite answer the description and so about two hours Singleton returned and kept on . It was , however , the stream , reported that he had discovered in the which was fowing not many rods dis dust plainly , a wagon track and that the tmas to our right , and then tank and wagon was evidently drawn by a horse dimppened . That is the characteristic and mule , whieb constituted our wheel of many streams in this country . The team , and was sure they had passed in soil being so open and porous that the the night . So we immediately packed water sinks to reappear in some other our borses and started on . An August quarter . We kept on and on and no sun poured down its fiery beams upon migma af streams or water . Night came us , which were intensified by reflectio . THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

from the dry and arrid soil . We hur and struck across the plain to a spring ried our horses as much as possible over about ten miles distant . In eight miles the rough and dusty road and my com reached another spring at the foot of a panions began to complain of thirst mountain , wound around some snow and were for wandering here and there covered peake , and in seven miles reached in search of water . I urged them to a small creek and encamped there , the dismiss all such hopes , for if there was grass being fine . water anywhere there , others before us Monday , Aug. 6. - There was a light would have discovered it , and the surest fall of rain last night . There was relief for thirst was patience and no thunder and lightning this morning thought of water . But like children in and heavy showers to the north of us . sight of a fresh pail they could not We reached Cajaux creek about eleven forego their want and became clamor- o'clock and nooned upon it . There was ous . I then told them to take the saddle good grass , but it had been closely pas horses and provide for themselves and tured . Moved up the creek some miles I would remain and bring up the pack- and , finding good feed , camped there for horses as I was in no si : ffering condition . the night , having made twenty - five The only inconvenience I felt was the miles . Met here an old traveling com dust and dry hot sun . About one panion . o'clock I saw : Brower coming on Charley Tuesday , Aug. 7. — The morning was to meet nie with a canteen of water , but fine and cool for traveling . We saw a I really had no need of it . My compan- cloud of dust to the right of us , marking ions would hardly credit my statement the great trail from Pacific spring to that I suffered nothing from thirst , but Fort Hall , the usual traveled route , it was nevertheless true . The will has which we struck in about eight miles . much to do with the ability to endure We found ourselves once more in the this privation or that , and aids wonder- midst of the great caravan . Our old fully in relieving wants . We moon conipanions from whom we parted a reached the spring where the wagon month ago , we learn are but slightly in .. as safely standing . There was a rous advance of us , notwithstanding our ex . ing fire of aage brush burning and a lended detour to and long stay at Salt gu.nptous dinner being prepared by our Lake . The road was quite hilly We baker , Lamp . Brower and Kilburn , with crossed a ridge and struck Goose creek the wagon as they passed , did not dis- tlowing north ( an affluent of the Colum . cover us lying by the road - side , and bia river ) and about twelve miles from kept on until they reached the spring at the junction of the trails . There was a daylight . It was well they did , for the small spring about midway of the drive . traveling by night was so much more The old Oregoro trail here turns down comfortable than by day . At four the creek to Snake river . How times o'cluck we moved on six milen to Deep change and men change with them . I Creek , a very fine stream where the feed look in vain among the ragged grave was good . In the two days and night I and bronzed codgers , dragging them . we have traveled forty - seven miles . selves wearily along , for those dashing , Saturday , Aug. 4. We moved rather sprightly and gay young fellows , full of late in the day , and efter six miles travel song and laughter , whom I saw in the finding excell concluded to en : valley of the Blue , on the banks of the camp . Th cool breeze Platt , two months ago . Where have from the en the north they gune and what has become of them ? of us . The bob - o - link in May is constantly singo Sunday , riy starting his merry note , bob - o - link bobo THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . link . spink , spank spink , lut when ' scratch upon ihe finger , will sometimes summer wanes produce dea , when a canr on ball may “ Robert of Lincoln at length is made sever a linib , or a crow - bar crash through Sober with work and silent with care ; the scull without producing such a re of his holiday garment is laid , sult . The road to - day was crowded All forgotten that merry air . " with teams , and many familiar coun This long and weary migration has tenances were seen . We kept up Goose sobered these gay sparks and sadly creek through a narrow gorge to a fine changed their brilhant plumage so that spring , where we left the creek , and they , bu more than Robert of Lincoln , moved four miles over & plain , and en are recogpizable after his June boliday . camped among the sage brush without These changes have been a source of finding grass or water . Not withstand great amusement to me because I know ing the roughness of the roads , we made none are the worse for them , but twenty - five miles . rather the better . As we have no Wednesday , Aug. 9. - As I was walk looking glasses , each one can laugh as ing w - day in advance of my compan much as he pleases at the sorry ap- ions I discovered moving ahead of me pearance of his neighbor without being a person sheltered by a huge umbrella . cognizant of his own . It was something of a novelty ; I had CHAPTER XX . not seen one in three months . There had hardly been a shower , except at THE OHIO BLACKSMITH -SAD EFFECTS OF night , during that period . All were so A SLIGHT WOUND - PERIPATETIC DIOG - well tanned they cared not for shade , to ENES --- STOLT - HEARTED LADY - GOOSE preserve their counplexions . Curiosity CREEK – HEAD OF THE COLUMBIA led me to quicken my steps so as to over STRIKE THE HUMBOLDT - THE BOOT DIG- take and interview the strange individ GERS NUT GOLD DIGGERS – A FRIGHTEN- ual . I was well repaid . I found it ED ONE . shadowed a dark , bilious - looking man , of large proportions , and middle age . The dusty , hot , long dreary way When ' neath a blazing sun you lotter , | He recurued my salutation with a grunt To reach a camp et close of day . and a growl . When limarked that And And ii destitute of water . it must be pleasant for him to walk in Wednesday , Aug 8 .-- We called to - day , the shade , he replied : " Not mucb ; as we passed , at the camp of the Sidney with such a heavy weight to carry . " I Company , of Ohio , with whom we were asked him how he enjoyed the trip . associated in the Robedeaux train . They " Oh , horrible , " said he , “ I have not bad were compelled to halt from necessity . ; & moments peace or comfort since I One of the members , blacksmith , a started . Everything goes wrong ; I'm stout burly fellow , of full two hundred lame , and can hardly crawl , ” and with weight , accidentally wounded himself an “ oh ! oh ! " placed his hand upon his in the great toe with pigeon shot , and hip . “ Why don't you ride in your wag now from that cause alone was seized ' on ? " said I , “ you could then have rest with lock.jaw , and at death's don “ . He and shade . " " Can't do it , " said he , -it was bolstered up in a rude chair , and jolts so it racks every bone in my death lines were marking his sad , broad budy . " I then suggested that be ride an face . Dr. Read pronounced his case easy going horse . “ I can't do that , ” he hopeless - that his end must soon come , ' replied , “ my feet swell when off th and his companions would not have ground and pain me awfully . " ' All r long to wait for it . It is most strange suggestions for his relief were met » that a slight wound in the woe , or a objections , and were in vain . He diu THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 67 even thank me for my gratuitous and portions of the Valley of the Humboldt , kindly intended advice . He was a nat- the emigrants bave strained every nerve ural born grumbler , and grumble be and crowded their teams almust to ex . would . It was undoubtedly one of his haustion , to reach it , where they ex . sources of enjoyment . Such unbappy , pected to recruit for the passage of the snarling fellows not only seem to make last desert and the Nevadas . themselves miserable , but all who are Saturday , Aug. 11. - We passed thro ' compelled to associate with them . Their a narrow canon down the stream , near appropriate place is chief mourner at a which was a fine warm spring , and funeral , or figure - bead at an anxious striking a pleasant valley with good meeting . In order to avoid as much as grass we concluded to lay over for the possible the midday heat we set out at day , for rest , having made only nine dawn , and reached water in about ten miles . To the left of us a grand chain miles , but it was poor and brackish- of snow - covered mountains loom up in unfit for use A short distance farther the distance . we found some wells or springs , of good Sunday , Aug. 18. - Started at an ear water , and halted to let our horses feod ly hour , followed down the branch und and get our breakfast . About five miles struck the main stream about three beyond we found a fine spring of very o'clock , and continued down the river cold water . Having made twenty - six a few miles and encamped on the miles , we encamped . The grass was bank , having made twenty - six miles . good , but quite dry . The horses seemed The roads were fine . Our old Bath to like it , and perhaps it was better for friends and former companions are en them than green food . We hear that cam pod near by . I gave them a call . the blacksmith died last night . They seem to be getting along well . Friday , Aug. 10. - We fell in with a Their team looks as well as any of their part of the old Rubrdeaux train , and had neighbors that have come through from a pleasant reunion , detailing our various Missouri . Dr. Harvey is still with them . adventures , since we last met on the The snow - covered mountains still show Platt . These interviews form one of themselves south of us . After supper I the pleasant incidents of the road . We took a delicious bath in the river , whcıh left an interesting region , known as Hot was here clear , Aowing with a full cur . Spring Valley , from the numerous warm rent , averaging a depth of three feet . springs bursting forth in it . The wa Monday , Aug. 18. -While passing to ters are brackish , and not altogether pal- day an encamnpment I made a friendly atable . Crossed over a ridge and struck call and there met a Boston lady , who , the north branch of the Humboldt Riv- on some charitable errand bent , was on er , a point long and earnestly looked her way to California . Her age was fur . This stream is sometimes called somewhat uncertain or rendered so , by Mary's River , but was generally known the exposure to fervid suns and rude as Ogdon River , so called from Mr. Peter winds , but for all that , it was evident Ogden , an enterprising and intripid she was a woman of culture and refine leader of the Hudson Bay Company , ment , self - reliant and plucky . To my who first explored it , until Fremont , in inquiries she said she enjoyed the trip 1848 published bis memoir and gave it very much and borrowed no trouble for the name of Humbon from the great the future . ” She was out of all pa German traveler . steve of thir . tience with her male companions , who ty miles we cam . finding inade such an ado about the toils and excellent grass From hazards of the journey , always murmur . Fremont's glow home ing and complaining , frightened at a 68 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

• shadow , magnifying every aage bush they are sure to die . Their dead car into a bloody Ute . She said she had casses furnish them sumptuous feasts . been in the habit of walking miles ahead We hear reports that many cattle have of the train in search of plants and flow- I been stolen in this vicinity . Wbile ers , and other curious things , and had nouning to - day three Missourians came met zlone , numbers of Indians . They to us almost famished . Some of their had never offered to molest her , and she horses had been lost and they had fol had no fears of them . Her compan . ' lowed their trail into the mountains and ions were very apprehensive that their had traveled more or less the last twen teams would give out . She said , “ I do ty - four hours , in search of them , with not share in that apprehension , for if out food . They insisted they were they do , I know the distance is only stolen by Indians and swore all sorts of four hundredi miles , and I am satisfied I vengeance against the whole tribe , could walk that without any difficulty . threatening to shont the first Indian That woman ought to have been the they met . I asked “ if they would companion of Ida Peiffer , the great shoot one twenty miles from here . traveier . She had equal pluck . We " Yes . ” But , I urged , " he could hard agreed so thoroughly in vur views and ly be chargeable , with stealing your experience that with regret i bade her horses . " " Yes , " they replied , “ all In adieu . We have conunued our course dians know about it . ” “ Suppose , " said dowu the river all day ; the roads are fine I. “ after you have killled the Indians but very dusty . We passed a cool and his friends find an emigrant's family romantie gles which I would have been camped upon the river , unprotected , glad to explore , also some tine springs , suspecting no danger , and fall upon one quasie warm . We made twenty - five them and butcher them all ? You miles and encamped on the river . Such would pronounce that a great outrage , cleaf , fine stream , could hardly fill its , but do greater than you propose to per purpose , I thought , without its usual in.petrate . I have no objection to your habitants , so I obtained a hook and lipe , punishing the actual offenders , but be with a black cricket for bait , I cast it is sure they are guilty before you inflict the rippling stream and soon landed a punishment . " This inconsiderate retali mountain trout , a half a pounder , very ation upon a whole race for the acts of similar in appearance to the fish in the one of its members , leads to half the eastern streams . It proved to me that conflicts that ocur These hungry the story told that no trout were found men after they were well filled departed west of the Rocky mountains is untrue . in a better humor , and in consideration It scon grew dark a : d I was unable to for the generous kindness shown them , pursue my sport . promised not to execute the threats so Tuesday , Aug. 14. -We have been recklessly made . Having traveled twen warned that we are now in a very dan . ¡ ty - six miles we camped on a slough . gerous neighborhood . That this wild | There was little grass and the place for and half desert region through which , bidding . we were now passing , is wandered over Wednesday , Aug. 15.- There are all by the -Ctes or -Diggers , a for . kinds of alarming stories of Indian dep lorn branch of the Shoshones or Snakes , redations circulated among the emi that they were a shy people , prone to grants . We hear that Indians have keep aloof from strangers , and like the been killed and some emigrants woun ) wolf and hyena did their work by night . ed . I have not been able to learn It is said they use a poisoned arrow with these stories are true . It is a which they wound cattle from which ported that more cattle are stol THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . find that many emigrants keep no day , as we rolled along discussing guard at night and turn out their cattle among ourselves and with those and horses without an attendant . So traveling in our vicinity , the question of far as I have been able to ascertain it is a new route , that it is claimed has been only such that have met with losses . It just opened , to the Pacifio , by which may be their animals have only strayed the great desert and the Nevada Moun off themselves . At all events we have tains can be avoided and the head wa . had no trouble of the kind . We left the ' tons of the Sacramento be reacher in river and crossed the mountains twenty , less than two hundred miles . This new miles to save distance made by a long route is called Lassees Cut - off and leaves bend in the stream . There was a spring the river where it turns south and pur about midway , but no grass . We made sues nearly a west course to Pitt River , twenty - four miles . an affluent of the Sacremento . Ito ad Thursday , Aug. 16. – After a drive of . vocates make too fine a thing of it . Il twenty - four miles we again encamped it was as represented , it strikes me , on the river where , it is reported , last it would have long before this , been night twenty head of cattle were stolen . known and drawn all the travel . The The road was exceedingly dusty and the Dr. is taken with the fair stories told wind blew constantly . The grass seems but Brower and myself are intlexible . to be growing scarce . Many are bitter We decided we should stick to the old in their denunciations of Fremont for and beaten road , that we knew had been having deceived them by his flowery re- traveled before , although it was double port of the fertility of this valley . the distance to the point of our destina Where they expected to find beautiful , tion , before we would take the chances gruves , singing birds and meadows rich of a new oue . After leaving camp we in clover , they can see nothing but sage struck across a barren and desert bush , chirping crickets and sedgy pools . plain ten miles when we struck the I excused him by saying , “ he saw with river again . In the afternoon there other eyes then theirs , " and desired to came up a slight shower accompanied make a pleasant and readable report by a strong cold north wind . The and had no thought such simpletons as horses eagaciously at once stopped and they would ever follow his trail . Mag . turned their backs to the wind and rain . nificent hills border the valley affording There was heavy rain south of us . a safe retreat for the poor persecuted Made 20 miles . Diggers . Just at night fall while all CHAPTER XXI . were busied with preparations for re puse , we were startled by the sharp re- LASBEN'S CUT - OFF - THE DOCTOR DISAR ! port of a rifle close by , and upon louk . POINTED - MILLER'S EXPERIENCE -- FISH ing up saw a man on the bank & short ING -- NO LUCK --THE HUMBOLDT DECREAS distance off , enveloped in smoke , who ING - A BELLIOERENT SCARE - ANTE shouted to us , " Did yor see that ? See LOPE - QUEER DIGGER - A DECIDED PHI . bim run ! " He staied that he started LOLOGIST . an Indian concealed in the grass Saturday , Aug. 18. -About 1 o'clock right there and fired upon him without we came to the bend in the nver , where effect . The Dr. was eating the it turns to the south , and where the long roll and givir the rest Lassen Cut - off leaves the trail . The said let the poor been ductor continued to urga tho adoption sufficiently scare in to of the new route , but we were none the rest . less firm , and when Brower took the Friday , Aug. 1 | all left hand road and the doctor uw some 70 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . of his new - made friends turning to the in many pleasant places along the right he was very blue and płodded stream , but retsived no response . We after us in moody silence . He had no concluded the finny tribes here were alternative . When night came and we not accustomed to this Waltonian mode had struck the river and found a little of invitation to come up , and therefore patch of grass he became reconciled . disregarded it . Perhaps they migh . 6 Our march w - day , of 25 miles , has been prefer to be drawn in , suggested some show and wearisome . Our pour horses one , as vagarnt gamins to school by a borgin to show the effect of these long little gentle force . But we bad no net , and severe drives . ( We here insert a so we improvised one , from our wagon brief description of the new route fur . cover . After numerous water hauls , nished by Miller , who with Dudley and we gave that up as a bad job , and mad , Bidwell , were induced to follow it . ) “ It our supper of beans and bacon , good was in August , " says Miller , “ I think enough sure , for Lamp , our cook , was pot far from the 20th , when we left the deft in cooking them . If there was Humboldt and took the trail or road only fertility here what a grand valley known as Lassen's Cut - off . It was a this would be , bordered by wild and cut off indeed , with a vengeance . The rugged mountains , their enowy summits Black Rock Desert was more to be dread- glistening in the bright sunlight , pre ed than the sink of the Humboldt , and senting every variety of outline . In a we had over a hundred miles more of warm and sultry day the sight of these mountain travel than we would have icebergs would have a cooling and re had , had we made direct for the Trucke freshing effect . Last night water froze or Carson . " Dr. Harvey and I left our in our buckets . train ( one wagon ) at some point in the Monday , Aug. 20. – Tbe road was Piu river mountains , about four hundred sandy , and we made only a short drive miles , more or less , from Lassen's Ranch , of seventeen miles , halting at three on Dear Creek , near the Sacramento . o'clock on aecount of a notice posled When we left the wagon , we had , be that the grass was poor for some dis tween us , tuo or three pounds of four lance beyond . The river seems to be and about one and a half pounds of ba- ' gradually divinisbing in olume and con . We traveled from starlight till ils water lusing its freshness . It is starlight , till we reached Lassen's Ranch , becoming murky and slimy . The gen and when our scanty supply of bacon and eral appearance of the country is more four hu given ou , we lived principal . sterile . Little vegetation , no trees er : ly upon flesh cut from the Carcasses of cept a few stinted willows along the cattle that had died from exhaustion . river , hardly large enough to make a We met the Goverument Relief Train a decent fire to couk by . few days before reaching Lassen's , but it Tuesday , Aug. 21. - Made a long and hud disburse all its supplies , except weary drive or i wenty - four miles , over fresh beef which was given us in abun . a dry plain composed seemingly of lime dance , and which many ravenously de- and sand , and encamped no a sand blutf voured raw , because they could not where the trail ran at least a hundred wait for it wo be cooked . " ! feet above the river . There was a crevo . Sunday , Aug. 19 -This has been a ice in the bluff that led down to a nar . quiet and lovely day , and we have en row bencb on the ajver , covered with joyed our rest greatly . Our camp is on willows and coarse grasses . Our he * grassy bank of the river . Everything were taken there to feed and i looked promising , and we longed for during the night . It was a ni something fresh , so we dropped our lines place and well protected from THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . pight winds , but quite favorable for In- ' night reached our camping ground with dian depredators , who might be on ihe out our knowledge and turned out watch , to gobble and run off our stock ' their cattle This little adventure helped Lamp and myself were deputed for to consume the weary hours of the guard duty and as soon as it was dark watch and keep me awake . we took our guns and blankets and Wednesday , Aug. 23. - We saw three sought the bosky dell to bivouac with antelopes this morning , the only game the horses for the night . Lamp took we have reen since we entered the great the first watch and I snught a grassy basin . No wonder , it is a God - forsaken , hollow with the old soldier buttoned barren and desolate region . We found closely around me and lay down on my good feed at night and crowds of camp : blanket and went to sleep . At twelve ers . It is like old lives on the Platt . We any companion aroused me and we ex . have made 22 miles and crossed the river changed places . It was bright clear three times . We are now encamped on slarlight , but the silence of death pre- its banks Previous travelers through vailed . There was not even the chirrup this vulley reported antelopes were in of the cricket , the low munching of the abundance as well as sage bons and borses as they cropped the grass was all other game . T'he crowds of emigrants that could be beard . Wbile on the latterly may have caused the sarcity . alert , communing with myself , I heard Thursday , Aug. 28. - We pasised over the slight tinkle of a cow bell in the dry and sandy plains , took the left hand brush beyond me . What could that road , crossed the river and encamped on mean ? I was not aware that any but its banks , having made about twenty ourselves were encamped near . I had miles . A company of returning emi heard of niany devices that these treach- grants , on their way to Salt Lake City , erous savages resorted to , in order to passed us to - day . steul into a herd without creating alarm , Friday , Ang . 24. - We made a very and no better way could be devised long drive to day , scoring twenty - eight than the old cow bell witb which all miles . It was most trying on the team as our animals are more or less familiar , so , well on account of the sandy road as an that the hearing of one would lull , in- : immense black fly , that constantly tor stead of exciting thein . I did not wisb mented the horses , bringing blood where to arouse my coni panion until I had they fastened . We crossed the river in the made a full investigation . The jingle morning , recrossed again at five o'clock , of the bell seemed to be unnatural , and left it for about five miles , then struck it for a tinio would cease entirely . I crept again at nightfall and encamped . Gruss around cautiously so as to get in the very poor and adding still further din rear of the object , whatever it miglit be , tress to our poor jaded animals . A lew and as cautiously drew toward the more such days will use some of them sound , with my rifle in readiness for up entirely . We had buen warned not allack or defence . I soon cauglit sight | to permit any of the Digger Indians to of an object in outline , beneath a small come into our camps for the reason that willow tree . I paused until I was sure they were spies , that their object was ibe tinkle came from that point , and only to find out what we had with us then threw toward it a missle which at and how well we guarded our property , once startlede och a bell on , that so that they could make a raid upon us was feedir hes of a wild in the night time . Just as we were low . It v sition which taking our supper we saw approaching caused th hat caused a small , black and banty Indian , ex alarm . I les late at tremities bare , robod only in a short THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

cloth mantle or cloak , barely reaching was fair , and halted an hour or no to the knees , the cast - off garment of some give our horses res : and to graze . About · Broadway dandy . He came tripping two o'clock we moved on , taking the left forward gaily , with a light and airy hand road down the river , crossing a step like a person of consequence , raride through which flowed a sluggish who thought he would make an im- stream , in the bottom of which there was prension . The doctor , who assumed the bubbling a large sweet sulphur spring . role of orderly on such occasions , ad . By thrusting tin cups below the stream 1 vanced to meet him and order him off , into the spring , we obtained the sulphur and challenged him thus : “ Are you a water which was cool and really sweet Digger . " The Vie echoed back , “ Are and pleasant to the taste . It was nearly you « Digger ? " as clearly , perfectly and dark when we went into camp having distinctly as an echo , without any bes- made twenty - sis miles We found the 1 itation or difficulty in sound or intona- water bad and the grass poor , but we tion . The dortor in plain terms told could do no better . : bim to begone , but whatever he said the Sunday , Aug. 26. - We moved on four " Indian repeated . I persuaded the doc- miles when we reached a charming tor to let the simple fellow come in for meadow with abundant grass and an I was Ratisfied there was no harm in excellent spring of water and laid up for him . We gave him a cup full of tea the day . We found here a large num * and something to eat and he seemed de ber of emigrants recruiting their teams lighted with his reception . We am used and making preparations for the terrible wurelves by speaking difficult words journey over the Jornado del murto , as 1 and phrases and have him repeat them . the Spaniards derignate the passage of He never failed in a single instance to these deserts so destructive to life . do it correctly . I was puzzled to know Some were cutting grans , some were re whether he was daft or possessed pe- pairing wagons and filling their water | culins organs of speech that enabled caeks . Our provisions were getting low , him to imitate soy sounds . Edwin we had been so lavish with them ; be Bryant , who passed over the same route sides , our appetites seemed to have in Ir 1846 somewhere in this vicinity , fell in creased in the dry and exhilers ing air with this ame covy or one of his tribe , of the great basin . The doctor was very and thus describes the scene in his nar . much exercised on examining our stock , rative : " Two Digger Indians cane to and had great apprehensions of starva . my camp this evening . The ceremony tion , and insisted tiat we should procure of smoking being concluded the several an addition thereto . I told him we 1 members of our party commenced con- could do that any time , and that we had * verration with our good - natured visitors . enough . He stated that our companions | When one of the party spoke in En- were dissatisfied , br cause I had disposed i glish , the chief Indian would invariably of so much of our provision at Salt Lake . * imitate , with great precision , the sound I told him my opinion was unchanged , of each word to the end of the sentence . that on the desert we should find an The remarkable accuracy of this repeti- abundance . For I knew well many tion or imitation , accompanied as it was , teams would give out when the sand with an indescribable comic action , was belt was struck , and wagons with all o highly amusing , and produced peal their stores would be necessarily aban . upon peal of loud laughter . " doned there , “ But , " I said , " If you Saturday , Aug. 25 .-- Made another have no faith in my predictions you can long drive over the sandy barren plain ; go out and buy what you think we shall struck the river at noon where the feed need if it will be any satisfaction to you HE WREXT.CALLFORNIA , TRAIL . IN 1849 . cé

He topt * u among the campers and son from the spring , loaded up our goods returned with a very long face saying and provender and bacté adieu tư this that he could purchase nothinni and smiling Oasis , hoping to teach the sinki texgeil of me to make the effort . I or last water on the bottles of thre ' degu sendid * ww.please you I will do it . " The erì , by 3 o'clock ! front whônce # t - night first mal 1. applied to asking it as an fall weexpected to set out on uur threacht acrtommodation , marely , cheerfully sup- drive . . The night is always chosen for potreü , mw.with alk . I asked . The , doctor the passage through dry and barter des was then happy :. The mass of mankind erts for the reason that it is codler : srif : are kinder , and more aocommuniating wals travel better and suffer less from than they have credit for ,. but very : hunger and thirst : lu broad day the much depends upon the manner in ' heat is , fearful almost beyond ender with a favor is sought , The Missouri'ance . We found hoárver that the disti emigrants had very bad reputation : tauce to the sulphur wells , as the sink aining the rest : on necount of their at'commonly designated , was nearly thirty logo Aisregard of the amenities of life . , miles . It was almost dark when we Irat - I must my , tu their creditz : that . I reached thein . • It is a slimy , filthy ptaket , found them always .. as honorable and and the water really unfit for man or generous as others . - During the day we beast . " It is fetit and acrid ; But necessi loaned say the and cut some nice grase ty compèls its use By dgging ' a frest kihich why stron cured and tied in con- well little better water can be obtained . venient bundles and stowed away m , We must lay here ' till to - morrow noon . our wagons : -Our cask was taken out the move from here ' is usually madhe and soaked sa As to be ready to fill when at 2 o'clock , so as to teach the · Truekee we were ready to depart : The river by noon " the next day , å distance of here , entirely disappears , ' ii being swal forty - five ' miles . By starting a little loited up by the dry and thirsty soil . , earlier'we bøpe to reach them sooner . for the spring freshets , water must flood There is some grassi and weeds here , quite an extens of country , which led which will allow our horses to fill them te the eport thitt here was a great lake . selves , which with the - loage rest , will As the rains cease the volume of water prepare them better for the privations to diminishes and the whole is evaporated come . The trail , here divittes ,' the right or absorbed , leaving in the summer a hand leads to the ' Truckee , " ther - left to grassy plan . Carson river . We have concluded to take tbe first mentioned route . tt " . CHAPTER XXII . Weduesday . ' Aug. 29 – Well ! The The søk Of The HUMBOLDT -- Launch dreaded desert bras been safely - passind , with the loss to us of oniy a'single horse , UPON THE DESERT - A HORSE GIVES OCT and we have a pleasant camp out the A BRIGHT " MOON -- REACH THE BOILINGI banks of the Truckee , a'clear mountain SPRINGS -- DINE ON A WHEEL -- Sad stream , well shaded with cotton woods WRECKS INFERNAL REUWKS - DEEP and willows . The doctor is in high SLEEP - SAND BÉACH - HARD TRAVELING STRANDED WAGON THE LAW OF AT spirits . He is relieved from'a great tond PTERING of anticipated trouble . ' He sleting to TACHMENT S ANIMALS have no dread ot the frowning moun : REACH THE 1 1 ) VELY PLACR . .1 talns beyond us . " Among thoni , " he " A land of a land of sea - salt feels sure of two necessaries , wood and Åland of . water . ‘ About one o'clock yesterday , + And lonel 1 we left the sink , ur wélls , on our toil . *** Montny , sur cink some and hazarilous marcht ; across the THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

desert . The sun poured down its ferc- spoken , not a sound was heard , all plod est rays upon the dry and parched plain , ded on moodily ad solemnly , as if destitute of shade or shelter , except trooping to their graves . I , however , whai might be offered by an occasional had my hands so full I had no time to sage bush . The ground seemed to be waste on solemn thought . I was bound baked and burned , covered with broken to get that animal through and could stone and rocks , as if , sometime , it give no thought to myself . We reacbed had been exposed to volcanic action . the Geysers or boiling springs about Ridges of sand and ridges of rock were twelve o'clock , having made the twenty frequently passed . The road was rough five miles , without rest or refreshment , and full of an impalpable white dust , in eleven hours . The first thing upon exceedingly annoying As the fiery halting was to unbarness and unpack sun went down , red and sombre , as if to the horses and give them a few swallows shroud the gloomy prospect , the full each , of water from our casks and a round moon came out in all its glory , to lock of the hay brought along . The light us on our weary way . About nine scene bere presented , beggars descrip c'clock the large , white mare driven in the tion . The ground was covered with team gave out completely . She had shown bleached and whitened bones of horses signs of failing ever since she had been and cattle , the wrecks of other years , attacked by those large dies on the river . and the dried and decaying car She was taken out of the team and her casses of innumerable animals of this , place filled by one of the pack horses , broken carts and wagons , and all im whose load was lushed upon Charley , aginahle debris . In the midst there was heretofore reserved for riding . It was a calcareous boulder , risny sume three proposed to abandon the unfortunate feet above the ground , of the size of an beast here , in the very heart of the des- immense cauldron or potash kettle , but ert , to die of hunger and thirst . I could bollow , in which was bubbling . boiling , Du consent to it and assumed the sorry emitting volumes of steam , a sulphurous task of taking her along to water . I compound , which would , now and then , thought perhaps she might revive after rise to the surface and discharge over being relieved from the heavy draft and the rim , quite a stream . It world flow taking a sbort rest at the boiling spring , some distance until absorbed by the so that she might be got through to thirsty earth . The whole action was grams and water , and if she must die , it like a seething cauldron , hoiling over should at least be in the midst of plenty . ' and then subsiding . The water was She would stagger and stumble as she said to be not enough to cook meat . dragged her weary feet through the We had no time to try it . We dipped dust and rouble . I expected almost out some of the water in a pail to cool every moment to see her fall . I could for the benefit of our horses which sometimes only get her ahead by taking when cooled appeared quite limpid , and the halter over my shoulder and drag . upon being mingled with a little meal . ging or towing her along like a crazy ' they partook of sparingly . Some use it old bulk . Sometimes I would fall far in making coffee . It was not palatable behind , but when the tean was necessa- ' to me . It was highly charged with rily stopped for a breathing spell and to magnesia , or alkali of some kind , in solu fis something out of gear , I would catch tion , -perhaps not enough to do any up and relieve myself by putting the injury - but we thought best not to use halter through a ring in the hind board it . There were quite a mumber of the of the wagon box . The silence of the springs in this vicinity , some in 11 ! night was dreadful . Not a word was ! manner bubbling and steaming , al THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1840 . 75 Othere were inactive , but warm . There its beams into his upturned face arvused was plenty of water , water , everywhere , him . He sprang to his feet on the instant but not a drop to drink . It is told , that a and called cheerily to the horses . There party noticing this display of steam power were no toilets to make and consequent called to his companians , “ Let us be ly no laggards . In a moment the horses off - hell is firing up . " This point is the were packed and the team harnessed up . hall way station , Inferal , of the Jor- All knew what was before us . The white nado del murto . where all travelers halt mare seemed to be quite herself , but my for rest and refreshment . Others had companions evidently thought there was arrived here before us . Their baleful no chance for her survival , and fearing camp fires , gleamed here and there , and opposition to her abandonment by me , in their pale and misty ligbt , tall guant as well as to spare my feelings , suggest figures , with long disheveled locks , long ed that I , with Lampaad Kilburn , should beards , and tattered garments , perfectly go ahead at once with the pack horses , white from the fine impalpable just they being able to make better time than which covered them , fitted about in the team , and push on to the river , so voody silence , like so many grim and that if need be , relief could be sent back ghastly inhabitants of Pandemonium . in case the wagon should be stalled in The poor cattle looed mournfully and the the sand . I was not loth to go , for I wretched mules brayed sadly in their could not bear to see the faithful crea bumble appeals for relief from the sore ture abandoned in this desolate place . pangs of hunger and thirst . While our We took our guns and haversacks with animals were resting we selected an a supply of hard tuck , not knowing overturned wagon wheel , built a fire in when we might have use for the one or the tarred hub and boiled thereon a pot of need of the other . We proceeded quite coffee and then squatted around it on the rapidly for some miles while we were ground like merry knights of the round fresh and cool , but when a blistering sun table , and partook of our midnight meal poured his fiery beams upon us , both of coffee and hard tack , the only refresh- man and beast began to wilt . But we ment we had taken for twelve hours . were in so much better condition than As we sat there making ourselves merry many poor fellows we were frequently over our novel feast and revolving table , passing , we were in good heart . Dead the sheeted spectres around us would and dying animals strewed the way . steal up to learn the cause of our merri . Their sad look and glazed eyes , as they ment and then stalk away , as silently as seemed to beg relief were distressing to they came , into the darkness . It was behold . Some were painfully urging , our design as won as the animals were with whip and goad , their weary pant sufficiently rested to push on without ing teams , others leading or driving delay , so as to get over the sand beach their fainting cattle , all unyoked , to the before the sun became oppressive . life - giving river . About ten o'clock we While awaiting them , each one sought struck the heavy sand belt , evidently & resting place , squatting upon the the beach of some ancient lake or sea . ground , leaning up against the wagon We passed there a large covered wagon wheels , or the loose packs , so as to be standing by the wayside destitute of mo ready in a moment for a start . But tive power , loaded with flour , bacon , su . mysteriously one and ma at once gar , coffee , rice and dried fruit , enough , wrapped in a pro Our to supply our needs for three months . cares and toils we : But The owner called to us as we passed , for Singleton we til saying that he had been compelled to high noon . The ng abandon the wagon and its contents , 76 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA " TRAYE MVM 1840 } \ T i wolf wisd ! 18. Jud visosai 919H 9794473 and we could help ourselses , in wel : ly their hopes of relief were revived , come , to all we desired . Our jaded They needed po urging and it was as horses had all they could carry . It much as I could do with my heavy was ' with difficulty that we urged load to keep up with them . I failed to them along . They were disposed front witness the rurage that so many other the pinchings of hunger to.wander from travelers bave seen here : 1 şaw ng the trail ; to crop the wild nage , which cascades of glitterjpg foaming ma was green , bout dry as powder , without a bling waters , ng limpid lakes , o similya particle ' of nourishment -in it ... I fell gveyes , " . secha mingly described by somewhat behind while adjusting the them ... the imaginatightperluas load - on one of tbe horses and when I too .. duh to 849 white 1kpew . Fould , nge tame up to my companionel found.that exist . Apour fumcloskve reachey another horse hæd given out , so that his the river and the horses : Eushed wildly load had to be retroved . My favorite into the precious stream Wa Warley horse , Chartey , in their judgment , being into the water ahead of them , and with trest able to bear an additional burden , eluvs drove them out after a reasonable they trad already added it to his load . I draughter being fearfulhey might be iu at once , for the first time on the trip , jured by dawkins stewch . It was fost antro ! of myself and fiew.topquite dark bey , Brower and , the rest the rescue , and with empuknife cut came up , with the ſeam , haxing , left the the cords that : hushed the burden wagon , in the sand , some miles , back . and let the padlás all tumble ju the He reported igat when he let the Boil sand . Not one of them uttered a wording Springs the white mare followedygn but looked on in mute surprise after her.comPPSÍRand dyertakinsa shouted , whoever has anything bere German with an asteap.welliyeplied let him take care of - it for that børse with water , he gave the spare to hire on shall carry not a pound more . " : I picked condition he would , 43.494 bringiket up Brower's large carpet sack , .contains through and he did .. Romer gefal998 ing his clothing and effects , abrew it very well wytil he struck the sand , then over my shoulder as if enly , a.feather's the deafte WNS 89.beavy that it was freight and stalked on . . . The ... ther necessary fobalt Speguently to let the thugs were left to.be picked up by jaded animale , breathe angstest , 498 those whom they bright concern . Not night approaching he concluded the leaye one word . further . was said , por . was the wagou pad veturn for it to Porrow . there everas allusion made.io it . In a He took from the stranded , vehicle , a inoment I was ashamed of , myself , for sack of..dow .. sone sugar and peaches allowing my taper w get the better of to add to our depleted to and me . Reatly I bound no regrets , for at vas provide for apy : emergency that might the result of « koder teclink : tbas 1. happen Distance across the deseshe . 45 vould not control . We plodded on wea miles.c.3 UW rily and expected every moment , more ... Thursdaya Ay ,, 30 . We haxs had a of our horses would throw up the glorious , rest Agday , gelinips beneath and willow sponge . The yo - siakkered and powded and the shade of , ahe , aspen , a tried to be down.- Math : words and lulled so sleep , bythe , murmuring plows we urget - tition on for wouk new it stream . How beautiful is the law of was their salvation to be kepy powing i compensation , The kregter the toil the As avon as they eaugtitsight - of a faint sweeter , the rest , the keeper the huma line of green it was astonishing to see , tbe sicher , the least , Qur poor star " how at once the fainting animals picked horses seem fully to appreciate this up and quichened their pace . Evident- paradise anů are half inclined G.V.COOPER

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THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRANI . IN 1849 . up their heels . Brower went back and tiful valley where we found abundant brought up the wagon all safe . Our feed for our animals , having made only companions seem to think the wagon fifteen miles , the rond being somewhat an incumbrance and are anxious to ascending and rough . On some maps abandon it , but Brower insists there is this stream is named Salmon Trout Riv no oocasion for it and I fully concur er , but it was changed some years ago with him . They seem to scent the gold to Truckee , and this is the origin of fields and are very impatient to get the name . In 1844 , late in autumn , a ahead . They are disposed to throw small party of emigrants , with little away every incumbrance . Truckee Riv- knowledge of the country and the difficul . er at this point is about tifty vards in ties of the road were attempting to force breadth with a rapid current of clear their way through to California . They water about two feet in depth , and a were lost and nearly discouraged . The gravelly bed . It comes from the sum . snows fell in the mountains before they mit of the Nevadas and discharges inio had reached the pan8 ; and death and Pyrainid Lake . The bottom or fertile starvation was staring them in the face . land is nearly a mile wide covered with In their peril , while forcing their way a growth of willours , hawthorns and up the river , an Indian made his appear . some tall cotton woods . In the open- ance , and in a most friendly manner , ings wild peas and a variety nf other volunteered to guide them over the grasker grow with luxiurance . mountains . His appearance and accon tricities of manner , resembled so much CHAPTER XXIII . those of a man by the name of Truckee , LAST OP SUMMER - LEAVE CAMP COMFORT who was known to them , that they -THE TRUCKEE -ORIGIN OF THE NAME gave the Indian name of Truckee and -INDIAN TOPOGRAPHER -CLAM SOUP called the river along which he conduct SKILLFUL CARRIER - BEAUTIFUL VALLEY ed them after his name . Dr. Bryant -MAMMOTH PINES - CANNIBAL CABINS says he was the name Indian that fur . -THE DONNER PARTY - THEIR TERRI • nished his party no muon amusement at BLE SUFFERINGS -REACH THE SUMMIT the gink " of the Humboldt , in 1846 . AND CROSS - GRAND SCENERY . He may have been the identical fellow we met at the same place . While at " There's never a path so runded the meadows I met a friendly and intelli That leaves not the priot of feet ; gent Indian who made for me in the And we have a helper proinised For the trials we may meet . " sand , a topographical map of the route Friday , Aug. 81. - Here we are at the over the Nevadas . The sand was piled foot of the great Nevada Range , in sight up to indicate mountains and with his of its rugged and snow - covered sum . tinger he creused the heap to show the mits , enjoying the comforts of a quiet I canyons and water courses . To indicate and pleasant encampment . We feel as wood and timber he stuck in sprigu of though our wils were nearly over , but sage , and spears of grass where grans perhaps they may have only commenced was to be found , and made signs to in This is tise last day of summer and form us where the Indians were friendly crickets are merrily chirping , reminding or dangerous . It was really an ingen me of home and years that have passed . ions affair and he was evidently well ac Saturday , Sept. 1. --We left our en - quainted with the country . campment which ver be remem Sunday , Sept. 2. - We were so well bered as one i enjoyment , pleased with our location , hemmed in by of this crossed the r its banks high mountain peaks on the bank till night - fa a beau- ' wild brawling river , in the middle of a 78 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

magnificent forest we determined to putting in my boots , he stated that an take another day of rest . We found the Indian on the opposite , side raised bis stream abounded in clams and all went bow as if to shoot him , and then as he 10 work and collected a large quantity discovered me , dropped it and made off . fris our Sunday dinner . Our veteran I saw the Indian as he was climbing up cook , after a pailfull had been opened . the bill but I doubted that he had any set himself about making a soup and hostile intent . But every one here is succeeded admirably . All pronounced it very suspicious . The hill sides around excellent . It is not violating the trath us are covered with beautiful evergreen to say that we were as happy as clams pines and cedars sweeping from their and enjoyed the feast with great relish . feet to their summits presenting a wall Monday , Sept. 3- We set out early , of living green . found the road exceedingly rough , cross Wednesday , Sept. 5th . --The trail ing during the day the river two and wound up a long and difficult bill this twenty times . The current was very morning and then led down a tremen . rapid and filled with round granite , dous steep into a small valley wbere boulders . I was fearful in wading that I there was some grass and a fine cold might break my legs should they be spring . We halted at noon for lunch caught between them . I had great con- and rest . In the afternoon moved un fidence in the skill and caution of Char over a pine covered hill and ' struck into ley in crossing these mountain streams . the sweetest valley mortal eye ever rest do when a crossing was to be made I ed upon . It was about four miles long climbed upon the top of his pack and , and a hel ! a mile in width , as level as a trusted to him . It was wonderful to floor , and completely embusomed by witness his sagacity . He entered the green hills sweeping up from their base water carefully , with his head down , lift- a thousand feet , densely covered with ed first one foot and cautiously planted it pine , cyprus and cedars . Through its firmly , and then the other , if it struck a centre , gracefully coursed a silver boulder , he would let it slide over until stream . It had evidently once been the it had a firm resting place on the bot- bed of : mountain la'e , which had at tom , thus feeling his way all the time , some time burst its barriers permitting never once stumbliog . On his back I its waters to escape into the great basin felt perfectly safe . Another horse fol- below . This is made a pparent trom the lowing him stumbled and fell and was fact that the lower part of the valley druited down until he was caught upon shows a heavy deposit of the finest al a rift below . It was with much difficul . luvion , perfectly smooth and level , cov ty he was gotten out . His load was ered with luxurious grass three feet well saturated We found another high , that would yield , at least , three beautiful valley in which we encamped , tons of bay to the acre . In a mile or so hy ving made twenty mides . you come to a coarser material of sand Tuesday , Sept. I.- We left the valley and gravel growing coarser as you pro iar about five miles crossing a desert ceed until at the upper end large stones plain struck the river again and crossed and boulders appear as at the head of a it five times in a few miles . The road rift . We encamped here , having made was very steep and difficult so that we fifteen miles . only traveled fourteen miles . We saw Thursday , Sept. 6. -After leaving the some Indians but none near though , to valley we passed through a dense forest speak with . I was with a companion of pines of mainmoth proportions B ! this morning in advance of the rest and as I had never before seen , regem , had just crossed the river . While I was in appearance the white pine at the 19E GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 79

in almost every particular . While walk . before in the Tribune , but absolutely ing alone through them I experienced a refused to believe it . I saw before ine strange sensation . Comparing them occular and indubitable evidence and had with those that I had been familiar witnessed in this journey characteris with , I neemed suddenly to have been tios developed , that might naturally pro reduced in size and become a mere child duce just such result . With sorrow again . I could not realize their imn and disgust I turned from this Golgotha . 1 niense hulk and great height . It was The story as I have gleaned it is substan impossible to dismiss the impression . tially as follows : In the spring of 1848 The trees were rods asunder yet their ' a very large emigration from Mlinois green branches , more than sixty fret ' and Missouri started for Oregon and Cal aloft . shut out the blue sky completely . ifornia to settle there permanently . One stunding on the bank of the stream The Oregon and California trails then aid was measured and found to be eighteen not separate until Fort Hall was reached . feet in ci ” -umference We had ex . This year it was reported a shorter and pected to reach Donner , or Truckee better road had been found to Califor . Lake , to - night , but at five o ' lock , when nia south of Salt Lake and known as the it was time to camp . it was no where tn Hastings Cut - off . So a portion of the be seen . We fear we have lost our reck . California emigrants separated from the oning and are confounded . Yet we main body not far from Pacific Spring have followed a broad and open trail . and took the trail to Salt Lake . This We are surrounded by high snow - cap- was before the advent of the Mormone . ped mountains . We estimate we have There were about eighty persons in the traveled twenty miles . party , young and old , well supplied Frilay . Sept. 7. - Soon after starting with teams and provisions and the usual this morning we came upon one of the outfit of emigrants . They took this out Cannibal Cabins of the Dooner party , as off the 22d day of August . There was it was called , and then we knew the lake no organization or head amongst them , had been passed some little distance to consequently they blunderer ! and strug . the right . I stopped awhile to view this gled along hap - hazard quarreling among sad memorial of one of the most horrible themselves , fighting with the Indians occurrences in life , one that has no par- and each other as well . The conas . allel to history . Would that every one quence was their progress was slow , of the witnesses of the diabolical scenes many of their cattle gave out and the here enacted , for the sake of humanity , Indians stole more , so that wagons and had been instantly , by God's thunder- provisions had to be abandoned . On bolte , consumed or swallowed up like the 28th day of October they reached Kora and Abiram , so that the sickening Truckee , or Donner Lake , as it is now Ntory could never have been told . There called , and on the 29th attempted to were scattered about the infernal abode , cross the summit , but they found the piles of rags and rubbish , skulls and snow five feet deep and were compelled bones , some of them undoubtedly once a to return to their camping place near part of the human form divine , for in the lake . There they erected cabins for their Cannibal feast thene ghouls were shelter , for the weather was exceedingly not particular to ! what remained . revere . The storms . commenced and Around it w : from ten to the snows increased until it was in twenty feet h hoggled off places twenty feet deep . The few cattle at the snow li g deni . they had left were snowed under and Zens below . ory of lost . Several efforts were made by thene ill - ATAI years ' those who had pluck and strength to 80 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

make their way on foot over the moun- | summit of the Nevadas . A great wag . tains and snow , without sbelter or food . on with 16 yoke of cattle attached was They were driven back several times here being slowly and painfully dragged but a small party finally succeeeed , ' up the naked cliff at an angle of forty many perishing by the way , in reaching five degrees , amid a storm of shouts and the settlements in a perishing condition . blows . The sight fairly appalleu the Several expeditions for the relief of doctor . He threw himself down on a those remaining were sent out but were rock in despair , and exclaimed : “ We upable to reach them . The remainder i can't do it . I sought to reassure bim of this ill - starred party , were not res- ! by saying , “ We have not yet tried ; cued until the 21st of April , 1847 , hav . what others have done , we can do . " ing lain in the jaws of death for six When we reached the ascent the doctor months . Of the eighty persons com- stopped to await the wagon , while I pro posing this company thirty - six perished ceeded to the summit with the pack either by starvalion or bloody banda . horses and stopped chere to await the * Many of then had , in a great measure . " . coming of the company . As I stood mys one of the relief party , " lost all there 9,800 feet above the level of the self - respect , untold sufferings had brok- sea and cast my eyes westward , a pic en their spirits , and prostrated every- i ture of wonderful grandeur und mag thing like an honorable and commend . : nificence was spread out before me . able pride . Misfortunes had dried up Below were a succession of innumerable the fountains of the heart ; and the pine - covered mountain peaks , growing dead , whom their weakness made it less and less until they disappeared in a impossible to carry out , were dragged ' broad , yellow valley sweeping north and from their cabins hy means of ropes , south until lost to riew , and beyoud yib an apathy that afforded a faint in another range of mountains . This was dication of the extent of the change the far - famed Sacramento Valley , bear which a few weeks of dire suffering had ly a hundred miles distant . The purity produced in hearts that once sympa of the atmosphere rendered vision al thized with the distressed and mourned most illimitable , showing every line and the departed . With many of them all shadow distinctly . Sucl . fearful gorges , principle , wo , had been swept away by such deep , deep ravines and canyons were this tremendous format of accumulated fearful to be bold . I was fairly appalled calamity . " What seems very strange at the work before me , but that others the females showed more endurance than had made the descent in safety , I should males , and more in proportior , survived have despaired . The climbing of this The doctor and myself had charge of mountain was small work , as it seemed the pack animals and pushed abead . 10 me , compared with the descent . The bracing morning air and the glo : While thus absorbed in wonder and ad rious mountain scenery . soon diverted miration of the scene before me tbe our minds and revived our spirits . The doctor and some of our company ar doctor was in the best of humor , and ' rived , and informed me that Brower said . " Now that the desert 18 passed , had concluded that it would be impos I hope I will give no more exbi- sible to bring up the wagon and desired bations of iritability or gloom . " As we to see me . Su I hastened down the hill jogked on thus merrily , we heard a and found him resting and feeding his Kreat halloning and noise , and as we team at the foot of the peak . On meet : came to an open space , we looked to the ing him I said : " I was told that y right , from whence it came , and there wanted to see me , having conclu . before us loomed up the bare and rocky that the wagon must be abandon THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . 81

He curtly replied , " I sent no such summit , they thought they had me , but word , ' *and pointing to the suinmit , he I met that difficulty by insisting that it said : “ The wagon is going there , and could be tunneled without doubt . When then if they want to abandon it they we passed over it and looked down upon may . " I left him and returned . He the terrible charms , innumerable gorges 1 soon brought up the wagon with the aid and ravines in every direction , they put of an ox team It is will and pluck that it to me again : “ How now P " Having overcomes mountains . We commenced ' no acquaintance with the science of en the descent and found the road by no gineering , I frankly acknowledged that means bad , but quite winding and en- a road bere was impracticable , and if camped on the head waters of the Yuba , , one was ever built some other pass must having made ten miles . be found . We started this morning to cross over to the Bear River divide and CHAPTER XXIV . found the road terrible , ap hill and PACIFIO RAILWAY - DEEP CANONS -HARD down , winding among peaks , skirting ROADS -- ABANDON THE WAGON - MEET fearful precipices and ravines three DIGGERS — BROWER AND OTHERS ST PAT thousand feet in depth We passed also THE * DIGGINS " -JOHNSON'S RANCH- many beautiful mountain lakes , spark . NICHOLACS - RUDE ENCAMPMENT-- REACH ling like gems in a green setting . Night SACRAMENTO - DISAPPOINTMENT HU- overtook us in the midst of a burning MAN NATURE THE SAME - THE GOLD forest and there we were rompelled to CRAZK-- CONCLVSION . balt , without grass or water in the mid Saturday , Sept. 8. -For inany years ' dle of the trail for we dare go no far . had been an earnest advocate of the ther in the darkness . We have made practicability and utility of a transcon- fifteen miles , tinental Railway w the Pacific . In 1837 : Sunday , Sept. 8. - We passed å most a coterie of hair - brained young mad - caps ' uncomfortable night in the smoking for . in an eastern college had in serious con- | est , getting but little sleep being in con templation the organization of an expe- stant apprehension lest some of the burn dition w occupy the Bay of San Fran . ing trees might come toppling down upon cisco and there establishing themselves . us . As soon as it was light we pushed founding a commercial metropolis and on in hopes of finding grass , struck a an independent Republic at the proper small stream but found none . Our time . They felt assured , that at that team borses showing signs of failing point the rich trade of China and the for want of sustenance , we unbitched East would be centred , and as a con- from the wagon and hurried on with sequence a great trunk line to the At - them four or five miles , when we reach lantio would be constructed . In fur . ed a small valley where there was grass , therance of their scheme they wrote and encamped . The road was more inany articles for the press of the coun- rocky and difficult than we expected try to call attention to the subject , but but we were compensated by the grate their poverty prevented them from put . ful shade of a fine open forest of codars ting in execution their grand designs . and sugar pines , through which we During the jonrney I have had many could catch occasional glimpses of a sky discussions with my companions upon of the deepest blue in which were cir the practicability of a railroad and have cling great vultures so far above us , that up to this time to 20 answer their they looked like mites . Made fifteen objections to hus far , at miles . least , to my 4'hen we : Monday , Sept. 10. - Remained in camp reached the d rocky all day . Brower went back and brought THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . up the wagon The company decided had prescribed for him . In turn he had that we could take it no further . So we occasionally carried in his comfortable gave it to some passers by . It was of and easy conveyance for a time , some of eastern manufacture and an admirable the doctor's patients . one . During this long journe ? not a W’ednesday , Sept. 12. Left Bear val spoke has sprung , nor a fellow started . ley , and pushed on over mountain and It is as sound in every way as when we till . For a few miles the road was quite started . It is with some regret that I rough . One of our horses to - day gave part with it , for it was a house upon out entirely , and we were compelled to wheels and had furnished me with shelter leave him in the woods to shirk for him and the comforts of a home for many sell . He could not climb the heavy months . hills . His feet were worn to the quick . Tuesday , Sept. 11. - We packed our He was said to have been an ludian goods upon the team horses and started horse , accustomed to rough usage but for Bear valley six miles distant , where he did not prove as hardy as the we arrived at toon . On the way there ' Kanucks . Perhaps his bad temper and was a tremendous descent hardly less wildness was unfavorable to endurance . than a mile in length , so steep that We made eighteen miles and encamped wagons had to be snubbed down with at a spring in the woods . We met tos ropes , or held back by & fallen tree , wp day the first digger , belted and bevoted , foremost fastened w the hind axle . The with pick and pan , on his way prospecto footmen followed a zigzag path by the ing . side of the road . When about half way Thursday , Sept. 13. --Good diggings dowa I saw a wagon with a single pair ' having been reported on Bear River just of cattle coming down with the usual below , where we were encamped , Brow . drag bebind . As it reached nearly op- er and several of our comparions con posite where I was on the lower side of cluded to try their fortunes there . They the road , something gave way and down ' retained the provisions and stures with wagon and oxen came flying . I jumped the exception of enough pinola to last behind some -manzinetas for proleeflon , i us for the balance of the journey and expecting that the whole thing would bid Jing them a warn adieu the docuor come toppling down upon nie , but just and I started with the horses for Sutters . before reaching my refuge , the wagon We crossed during the day a tremen tongue struck a stump and cattle , wag . dous gorge known as Sierp Hollow . It on and goods were burled into the air was wise that we parted with the way . as from an exploded mine , scattered in on . for our half - starved horses could every direction , and came tumbling down , never have drawn it up the asi eni of the hillside making a perfeet wreck Dearly a mile . We have met bordes of As I had business of my own requiring diggers . It is said that fifty thousand attention I did not go back , for I was are now drifting up and down the slopes powerless to render any reasonable as- of the Nevadas , of every hue , language sistance . We found the valley , a charm- ' and chme . All are in quest of gold , and ing placr , and wpcluded to remain for with eyes dilated rush this way and the day . We also found encamped here . ' that as new discoveries are reported . some old fellow travelers . Among them , ' Such thirsty avaricious cha ps are they , one who was out of health . He had start that I fear they will drink the river ed from the states in a light democrat , dry . After twenty miles ' trayel , campu with a bair of ponies , entirely alone . in the woods for the night . He had previously traveled in our com Friday , Sept. 14 - We passed du pany for days at a time , and Dr. Read the day Finlay's store , a rude log by THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 . ing erected as a place of trade for dig . I a house of entertainment . There was a gers and Indians in the vicinity . We long rough table standing outside , pro have seen numbers of Indians moving itected by a canvas covering , with rough to and fro . The country passed over was slab benches for seats . A miserably dirty dry and parched , no grass , and water , looking Indian boy was arranging the hard to find . Now that we are among dinner . Among the luxuries or dainties the foot hills the pines have disappeared ' were a plate of potatoes about the size and in their place the beuutiful ever . ' of walnuts , builed beef and soup . Tempt green oak is scattered hers and there I ed by these rich viands the doctor and I giving the appearance of old apple or thought we would take a square meal at chards . The shape and foliage of this this western St. Nicholas and mat down at oak presents an exact resemblance to the table . Very soon an ancient hombre the apple tree . came around to collect the bill . The Saturday , Sept. 15. - We reached doctor referred him to me , I carrying the Johnson's ranch just before night . It is ' purse . When I asked how much , he an old establishment , constructed partly said : “ Tree dollar . " The doctor's jaw fell of logs and adobes and has been a famous palpably , and when we left he said , “ We cattle ranch for many years . It is now can't stand such prices . " He for son.e converted inw a store and house of en- time refused w take a meal at an eating tertainment , and being at the junction house until he became accustomed to of many trails leading to Sutter's , pre- gold prices . We plodded on over the sents a busy appearance There were dry and tedious plain , halting to water large number of emigrants , prospecto our horses at the slough . It grow dark ors and greasers hanging about the but we managed to keep the trail . We premises While the doctor and I were were in some trepidation on account of louking about and interviewing the mot- the wild cattle that were roaming over the ley crowd , such was our forlorn and di- plains . The bulls , it is said , frequently lapidated appearance that a simple attack men not mounted and are really hearted fellow innocently asked the doc . considered quite dangerous . We aruld tor if he was a white man , having doubts hear them bellowing furiously in almost about his race . A fiery sun and lack of every direction . Our horses were 80 water materially affects the color line . loaded there was no chance to ride them , After a brief halt we moved on two but we kept very close to their heels so miles to the ford of Bear River , there a as to be ready to mount in case of dan stream about fifty yards wide , where we ger . We plodded on in the dark till nine encamped for the night . Distance , wclock and no welcoine lights from the twenty miles . new city making their appearance , we Monday Sept. 17. - Yesterday morn- sought an old oak fallen by the wayside , inig having turned all our horses except and concluded to take up our quarters for Charley and Benny out upon the river the night under the lee of it . We were bottom to recruit , to be recovered at safe here froin being run over . On the some future day , we packed all our stuff other side of its great bole , we found upon the two and started for Sutter's some other wayfarers had sought refuge Fort , or Sacramento city , as we now hear there before us , and were quietly slum . that locality demi 4 , expecting to bering . We made a sort of a barricade reach there ' ve reached : of our packs and rolled up in our blank : Nicholaus , at ther river . ets pussed a comfortable night , disturbo about two o's reps out ed only once by an outcry from our fel to feed awhi up to an low longers , who had been visited by a old adobe rat ** into burglarious ( ayote who had stolen froin 84 THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

under their very heads the remains of had been interested in all I saw , but dis their supper and a pair of shoes . As covered no familiar face and received soon as it was light we caught up and no kindly greeting . In the midst of a parked our horses , and then made a bee crowd I felt lonely . Sadly disappoint line for the ford of the American river , led , I started back like Noah's dure , opposite the city and about two miles i without even a leaf , to my ark of refuge , therefrom . About 9 o'clock we reached the green - wood tree . Wbile riding it . There were hundreds of emigrants leisurely , my ever faithful steed , orer and miners camped about the place , the , the plain on my way to the ford , I was fine grazing and the magnificent oaks halted by a city swell with “ Ho ! scattered around furnishing shade and Stranger ! i'll give you a hundred dol shelter . We selected one for our tem . lars for your horse ! " Did be take me porary home , and packed our plunder for a mercenary slave - trader , that he about it and were settled . The doctor ' should thus accost me ? I turned upon purchased a mackerel at a trader's tent him a look that he will not soon for and boiled it for our breakfast . As get , and ai a Hi ! Hi ! Charley , as if also Boon as it was over I started for the conscious of the insult , dashed abruptly great City and the Post - office . Ii in ' away , leaving the vagabond to nis own now six months since I have seen a reflections . I sell ny friend and com newspaper or beard from home . My panion , anu for gold ? who had for anxiety to hear from there . is absolutely long and weary months borne me painful The city was laid out like over toaming torrents , through rocky Philadelphia in square blocks . It con- defiles , or followed me over mountain taimed only one sizable frame building , and desert patiently and uncom that was the city hotel , constructed plainiogly , and with whom I had from the timbers prepared for Sutter's shared my crust and my couch ? No ! mill : the remaining dwellings were of ' No ! As I then felt , the wealth of the cloth or wall lents The streets were world could not have templed me to filled with golden lunatics , as eager as part with one drop of bis precious blood . tred - bugs , flying here and there , rolling I fully appreciated the feelings of the and tumbling boxes and balas , Justling Bedouin of the desert , in his poverty and chatting each other they were all , and rake . who spurned the tempting strangers w me , and unwilling or una bribe , offered by the French Ambassa ble to give me any information . They dor for his priceless mare , the compan thought of nothing and would talk of ion of his children and the pet of his nothing but buusehold . " Gold , gold , gold , gold , Tueslay , Sept. 18 - After being lulled Moken and gravee , hamnaerd and rolled , · to sleep lust night by the gentle coming Heavy w get and light w bold . " of the wood doves in the branches above it was with some difficulty that I ne , 1 arose this morning in the best of found the post - office , a dingy little spirits , and after a frugal breakfast , I board shanty , bardly seven by nine I again set out for the city , with a drur . tremblingly enquired of the incumbent mination w find some one who could for letters or papers and was coolly in- give the desired information . I remem formed that there was nothing for me . bered to have heard before leaving I theo sought from him some informa- ' home , thal ( apt . Shannon had chartered tion of Capt . Shannon and his volun- a vessel to convey himself and his goodin teers , but he replied he was a new com . to Sutter's Fort . I thought perhaps tl . er and knew no one here . I had ridden , Vessel might lie at the levy , or that ! up and down the dusly streets all day , i masters of oiber crafts might h THE GREAT CALIFORNII TRAIL IN 1849 .

made their acquaintance . I hurried at : quired for board and can get it , but once to the river , and boarded the first must lodge myself . That I don't mind . I can now sleep as soundly and sweelly vessel I struck and called for the cap- under the branches of the wide spread tain . He at once came up from the ing oak , as on a French bedstead . i cabin , and upon hearing my enquiries can't say I have lain down at night stated that he had recently arrived and weary or worn , though I have footed it had few acquaintances , but that there entirely for the last three hundred miles . You have probably heard woeful tales of was a gentleman below who had been the sufferings of those crossing : so far some time a resident here , and he would as my experience goes , there is not a send him up . In a moment the gentle word of truth in them True , some have lost a few cattle and have been man appeared , who proved to be Rich- compelled to abandon some of their ex ard L. Turney , formerly a resident of tra luggage , but provisions have been Lindley , Steubed county , N. Y. , with plenty and of the best kind . I have whom I had some acquaintance . He not heard of a single individual being killed by Indians , though a number of had drifted here from Oregon , and now ' Indians have been shot by emigrants , kept the Hotel at Sutter's Fort . He in- ; The doctor and I think of going up formed me that Shannon was at Monte- the Yuba , where Smith and Emerson ray . attending the Constitutional Con are , and trying our luck in the diggins . I have no more faith in them than I had ventionand that some of his old company previouslv . Some have done well . were then at the Fort . I at once hurried Some companies have averaged three up there and found Dr. Ward , for- ounces to the man per day and some merly of Howard , N. Y. , who had late even more . I have seen others from the same diggins that have not made a news from New York , and knew the dollar in two weeks . whereabouts of those I sought . I then Perhaps it would be of interest to called at the store of Muses G. Leonard , those who have had the patience and a gentleman of whom I had some knowl , pluck to read through there tedious edge , and , obtained writing material , and notes to know something of the fate wrote the following letter : and fortunes of my comrades , speaking SACRAMENTO City . Sept. 18. 1849. and speechless . Of the original pardners MY DEAR MOTHER : I arrived here in the old red wagon I alone survive ; yesterday all safe and sound and in all the rest have since crossed the silent most excellent health and spirits . You river . Charley was lost in the great can judge of my anxiety to hear from home and to communicate with you , food of 1850 , and of his mates I can by my passing directly by the diggins . , only add , " strayed or stolen . " The without so much as stopping . even to COW train and wheelbarrow -man ar . Iwok at them . Except the Doctor . Brow . rived all right . The Grand Pioneer Line er and our other traveling companions from Salt Lake stopped there and went broke down on the Platte . Its passen to work . They are on Bear River gers , without means , either worked or 110 miles from the City , French , D. W. begged their way w the Pacific . It is . C. ; and Chamberlain , J. M .; are not far from them . So are South E. M. ; and worthy of note that every letter I wrote Emerson , J. C. Capt . Shannon is at on the way and committed hap - hazard Monterey , a delegate to the Constitu- to Mormons , mountaineers , way - farers tional Convention . I have not been able and even Uncle Sarri's Messengers , to meet any Bath quaintances and therefore have no ble to hear a reached their destination . One even syllable from not time or was rescued from the flames of a burn a convenient 1 full and ing steamer on the Missouri , and all particular let ardly a house in this h it is charred and blackened was delivered to said to conta All the person to whom it was addressed . live in tents Home The Pacific Railway has been built kind , or slee , ive en- and follows substantially our old trail , siriuo THE GREAT CALIFORNIA TRAIL IN 1849 .

piercer the summit peak , sweeps round more dramatic or amusing than the Cape Horn and reaches the Sacremento- truth would render it . In proof thereof , valley without difficulty . The time he copies from a letter just received from table of the railway makes tbe distance A. M. Miller , now of California , who from the Ford of the Truckee to the war one of his traveling companions summit 84 miles , our estimate was 90 and has read these notes , the following : miles . This shows how accurately dis , " Your account of my drenching in tances may be estimated by those in the Bear River and subsequent proceeding is hrbit of it . fully correct , but when you state that my Now , Mr. Cor IER , having reached mountain fever was produced by a too the terminus of the Great California liberal indulgence in bacon and parched trail these " Rough Notes , " most necessa corn , vou are a little too prodigal with rily come to a conclusion . They were the truth , but as the Japanese would never intended for the public eye , and say , “ sh - ku - re - wai . ” As a rule , you have contain only such matters as particular . as far as I have seen , been faithful to facts ly interested the writer . He has care and whilst reading your narative I have fully avoided all embellishments that made the trip the secund time . ” Miller might mislead the reader . He has in . ) must know ; the doctor is better author vented nothing to make his narative ity than the patient . PICK AND PAN .

O THE DIGGING'S IN 1849 .

IINISCENCES OF CALIFORNIA LIFE

1

BY AN ARGONAUT .

BY A. J. McCALL , of the Steuben County Bar ,

BATH , N. Y.

REPRINTED FROM THE STEUBEN COURIER .

BATH , N , Y .: STROBEN OOURIE PRINT , 1852 KO : 1

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