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Growing Citrus in Colorado

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Growing Citrus in Colorado Growing Citrus in Colorado At a Glance Growing citrus in Temperature: considered subtropical, Colorado is not only possible, needs warm days in summer (70-90 but very rewarding. They degrees); 6-10 weeks dormancy in provide fragrant blooms and winter, night temps below 60 degrees, edible fruit, and some have but never below 45 fragrant, edible leaves. They perform best Light: at least 4-6 hours direct sunlight daily in summer; in winter, as much as a patio plant, (outside direct sunlight as possible during summer, inside during winter) Water: water thoroughly once top 1/3 of TEMPERATURE: soil has dried down; do not allow to sit Citrus is considered subtropical, and requires warm in water; sensitivity to chlorine & days in the summer, (70°-90°f). Citrus requires 6-10 fluoride, allow tap water to sit weeks of winter dormancy (below 60° night temp., overnight or use filtered water but never below 45°). Humidity: do not like our dry air, try using LIGHT: a pebble tray with a small amount of In the summer, citrus needs at least 4-6 hours of water, making sure plants do not sit in direct, unfiltered sun. In the winter, citrus requires a water; you may also mist undersides bright location with as much direct sun as possible. A of leaves southern exposure tends to be best. Providing Soil: good quality, well-drained artificial, full-spectrum light may be beneficial. Fertilizer: feed about every other WATERING: watering only while actively growing When watering, water thoroughly, and make sure the top 1/3 of the soil is allowed to dry down each time between watering. This drying is especially important during the winter months. Never allow the plant to sit in water for more than a couple of hours. **Note: Citrus can be sensitive to chlorine and fluoride in our water supply. Allow containers of water to sit at overnight before using, or use filtered or bottled water. POT SIZE: We do not recommend repotting citrus immediately. Plants are sold in pots that are the right size for that plant. The only reason you should transplant is if you can’t keep up with the watering and the plant is drying out too fast; it may be time to go to a pot one size larger, (2” larger in diameter at the most). 7711 S Parker Rd 303.690.4722 Centennial, CO 80016 TagawaGardens.com HUMIDITY: Citrus trees struggle in Colorado’s low air humidity levels. Placing your tree outside in the summer will help. In the winter months when the air is particularly dry, create an aura of humidity around the plant by placing plants on a pebble tray or saucer that is four inches larger than the base of the pot, fill with gravel and water. Make sure the plant doesn’t sit in the water. Misting the undersides of the leaves can also be beneficial. INSECTS: If you plan on eating the fruit, infestations need to be treated organically. Citrus is susceptible to a host of infestations. Spider mites, mealy bugs, and aphids are the most common. If an infestation occurs, physical removal of the insect is most effective. Prune off the worst-affected portions, and wash the plant gently with soap and water. If needed, spray the plant with a food safe insecticide such as Neem. ACCLIMATION: Citrus do not move to new environments easily. At best, you're going to see a little bit of yellowing leaves followed by shedding of those leaves. You will need to slowly acclimatize your plant to its new location (Leave the plant in the new spot for about 1 hour and increase the time each day before returning to the old spot.) This is important in the spring when you are introducing the tree to full sun and higher amounts of light. Full sun can burn the leaves if the tree isn't acclimated. When you move it indoors in the fall, the tree will get considerably less light even in a south facing window and will not be able to support the growth it put on during the summer. Before the tree is brought indoors prune the plant back by at least 1/3rd this will help the plant acclimate to lower light. Usually you’ll see new growth within a couple of weeks. Remember to check your tree more often for watering in the summer, as it will go through water faster in higher light. Back off watering in lower light conditions in the winter, as it will use less water. Just remember the 1/3rd rule* FERTILIZER: Feed your tree only when it is actively growing. Otherwise the tree won't soak up any fertilizer and you just wasted some money. We recommend organic fertilizers such as Age Old Grow and Age Old Bloom. Citrus trees are susceptible to burning from fertilizers and using organic fertilizers will not burn the roots. We recommend fertilizing every other watering. Water the plant before fertilizing only if the soil is bone dry and using fertilizer mixed at half strength of the manufacturer's recommendation on the package. Remember only water and fertilize when the top 1/3 of the soil is dry. You can determine nitrogen and phosphorus content in a fertilizer by three numbers found on all fertilizer packages. The first number is nitrogen content, the second is phosphorus, and the third number is potassium. 7711 S Parker Rd 303.690.4722 Centennial, CO 80016 TagawaGardens.com Nitrogen (N) helps the growth of the leaves (think green), Phosphorus (P) is for roots and blooms and Potassium (K) is for fruit and the overall health and vitality of the plant. You can eliminate some confusion by using an all-purpose fertilizer every other watering as long as it has some of all three major nutrients listed above. After about three feedings, change to a bloom booster (High phosphorus), Then back again to the original all-purpose fertilizer. SOIL: Well-draining, good quality, soil/peat based potting soil. Keep the soil level where it is originally planted. If the soil sinks due to watering you can add soil to the top until it is at the original level. Citrus like slightly acidic soil. Our water in Colorado is mostly alkaline. 7711 S Parker Rd 303.690.4722 Centennial, CO 80016 TagawaGardens.com .
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