Birdwatching Trip to Cyprus 22Nd September – 2Nd October 2008
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Steve and Sue Wilce Birdwatching Trip to Cyprus 22nd September – 2nd October 2008. We took an Easyjet flight out from Gatwick and arrived in Cyprus about midday. We had learned through the Internet that Cyprus had been without any substantial rainfall for the past five winters and consequently there was a water shortage on the island. As we approached Paphos airport in the plane we could see a very parched and dry landscape. Water levels in Asprokremnos reservoir were down substantially. We picked up our Honda jeep from Autostop Rent a Car and proceeded to Vasilias Nickoklis Inn at Nikoklia, where we were to stay for the next ten days. As previously, (we stayed here in the spring of 2005), a warm welcome was extended and after refreshments and quickly unpacking we drove off full of expectation. Our first port of call were paths adjacent to the water splash at Choletria. The river had dried out completely, the birds, however, had not. The bushes were full of Willow Warblers and Olivaceous Warblers. There was a brief shower of rain and after this the birds really showed well. Also present was a Stonechat and Bee Eaters flew overhead. We drove back and took the road towards Asprokrmnos Dam. We stopped just before the Dam because Steve had spotted a Lesser Grey Shrike perched at the top of a bush. Some Bee Eaters flew in and rested on some branches nearby. Also present was a juvenile Red Backed Shrike, a Crested Lark and a skulking Sardinian Warbler. In a field on the opposite side of the road there were numerous Yellow Wagtails and some Goldfinches in the short vegetation. We were watching the wagtails when a juvenile Montague’s Harrier floated past. A Kestrel was also seen and to our surprise an Eleanor’s Falcon darted low over the fields. All this in just half an hour!! Before heading back to the Inn for our evening meal we decided to have a quick look around the aerial mast above the dam as we had seen some good birds there in the past including Red Footed Falcons, but this time we just saw some more Bee Eaters on the wire and a Little Owl popped out and glared at us from the top of a rock. Tuesday 23rd September On the way up to Pano Panayia we stopped at the newly built Kanivou Dam which had been under construction on our last visit in 2005. As we stood and looked out a Booted Eagle flew low around some trees and gave great views before soaring away back over the trees. We knew that Masked Shrike migrate early and so hoped to catch one at a well known site for them near Pano Panayia at the Monashilakas picnic site, but unfortunately did not see any. Coal Tit and Great Tits were in the pines. Lower down quite a large area had been cleared of small trees and bushes to plant vegetables. This had been rich in bird life previously but this time there was fewer birds although we saw a flock of Linnets, 2 Cyprus Wheatears, Spotted Flycatcher, 2 Blackcaps, and several Willow Warblers. After a picnic lunch we drove to Evretou Reservoir. We had a brief look at the Dam but it was too hot for comfort so we drove to the other side, turning off towards Simou on the E712 road and following a rough track down to the edge of the reservoir. All of this part of the reservoir had dried up and we were able to drive along a track, which is usually under water, until we came closer to a moister area with a small pool of water. We parked up and watched from the vehicle. We were delighted to see 100+ Yellow Wagtails (flava and flavissima) all around us in the low vegetation and bathing in the pool. While we were there 2 Little Stint flew in and gave great views at close range. Also present were 100+ Goldfinches, Swallows swooped everywhere, a Grey Heron was close by and a female Marsh Harrier quartered a reed bed opposite us before landing in the reeds to take a frog. To finish the day, before returning to Vasilias Nikoklis for dinner, we drove back to the same area near the top of the Asprokrmnos Dam that we visited yesterday. The 2 Shrikes were still there but we also saw 4 Montague’s Harriers, 3 Juveniles and 1 Male, the only male we saw on this trip. A Male and Female Marsh Harrier, 4 Kestrel and 1 Eleonora’s Falcon were present, as well as Whinchat, Sardinian Warblers, a Grey Heron and numerous Bee Eaters. Wednesday 24th September Weather remained hot and dry as we headed out for Akrotiri peninsular. We visited Phassouri Reedbeds but there was no water anywhere. Flocks of Red Rumped Swallows, the only ones we saw this trip, flew all around us as did the Bee Eaters. Kestrels hovered overhead and Juv. Montague’s Harrier floated by. Spotted Flycatcher was also seen. We then decided to go down the rough track down to the Salt Lake and along Lady’s Mile to Zakaki Pools. As we drove past the Army base Steve spotted a Male Red Footed Falcon on the wires. As this was one of the birds we really wanted to see we pulled into the side of the road and hastily erected the tripod/telescope. We just had time for a quick look each before an army jeep pulled up behind us to ask what we were doing. They pointed out we were in a restricted area, so we apologised and quickly moved on. But it was worth it for the sight of such a fantastic bird. At the edge of the track by the Sylvania Restaurant a Lesser Grey Shrike and a Roller was on the wires, and a very light Common Buzzard flew low giving excellent views. All the pools were dry along Ladies Mile, there were a few Kentish Plovers but nothing else until we reached Zakaki Pools. This was much lower than usual but still held a reasonable amount of water. There was a flock of Yellow Wagtail and Little Stints, Ringed Plovers, Curlew Sandpipers, Green Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Redshank, Greenshank, Dunlin. On the way back a Kingfisher was seen heading toward the pool. We stopped opposite the Environmental Centre in Akrotiri as there was a Female Red Back Shrike showing well in the small bushes. We also stopped off near Kensington Cliff and had good close views of Eleonora’s Falcons. Closer to home, at Mandria there was a flock of 100+ Yellow Wagtails, 300+ Greenfinch, a L.G. Shrike hovered over the low vegetation and Marsh and Montague’s Harriers were seen and a male Merlin flew through. Along the beach Cormorants fished from the rocks. Later that evening, at Vasilias Nikoklis we went outside to listen to the resident Scops Owl which we had heard calling from the Acacia trees just outside our room. Managed to see the owl briefly in the beam of a torch. Thursday 25th September Another hot and sunny day, we breakfasted outside in the shade of the vines. Although some of the grapes had shrivelled through lack of water, Dora picked us some fresh sweet grapes to have with our breakfast. Then we set of for the Akamas Peninsula. It was just as dusty and bumpy as I remembered it. We stopped off at a likely spot and started to see some nice birds – Willow Warblers, Cyprus Wheaters but the peace was disturbed by off-roading tour jeeps from Paphos so we moved on. Along the way we saw a Peregrine Falcon on the cliffs, Chukkar and Black Frankolin near the beach restaurant. Nearing the top of the track before the parking area there was a male Black Eared Wheatear in full breeding plumage. Along Smiyes track we saw Goldfinches, Spotted Flycatchers, Hoopoe and Red Back Shrike (female). Not many birds about at all. We drove back to one of our favourite spots in Mandria and saw all the birds mentioned on previous visits. We then visited Asprokremnos pools for the first time. We had assumed they would be dried up, but we were surprised to find some water in the pool nearest the dam. A Kingfisher was perched in the reeds but flew off as we approached. Three Redshank landed briefly. Nothing else was seen on the pool but a Booted Eagle flew over. 20 Chukkar were near the base of the dam and 100+ Bee Eaters flew around us, obviously enjoying the occupants of the many Beehives there. Goldfinch, Crested Lark and Sardinian Warbler were also seen in the shrubs close to the base of the dam. Friday 26th September The day started duller than usual and we had some heavy showers, however they did not last long (by British standards). Today we returned to Asprokremnos Pools. There was an Isabelline Wheatear on the gravel near the pumping station, together with a Northern Wheatear and a Cyprus Wheatear. There was also a flock of Linnets flying about, a Red Back Shrike and Crested Lark. The Bee Eaters were still present in large numbers and we watched and photographed them until the Beekeeper, who we had seen attending his hives earlier that morning, started shooting at them. This was understandable I suppose but not pleasant to see. We always take a turn around Mandria as it can throw up some nice birds and this afternoon we spotted a Juvenile Roller.