Specific Information About Our Amazon & Galapagos Adventure in Ecuador

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

Meeting Time & Place We will meet you at 7:00 PM in Quito, Ecuador on the first day of the trip (November 11) in the lobby of our Quito hotel: Garden Hotel of San Jose. We'll be hosting a welcome dinner that evening for those whose flights arrive in time. You can also choose to arrive a day early, which we highly recommend. Not only will this allow you a day of rest after a long flight, it will also allow a time cushion in case you or your luggage are delayed. Since many flights from North America arrive late in the evening, this first dinner is optional.

Getting To Our Meeting Point Our hotel is a 10-minute drive from the airport and we will provide a complimentary shuttle for you. Details about this shuttle will be provided in our pre-trip email. We have chosen this hotel for its proximity to the airport (we fly out the next morning!), nice spa, good restaurant and comfortable rooms. It was not chosen for its friendly, aesthetic or secure neighborhood, so a walk around outside is not recommended here. If, however, you would like to visit and walk around colonial Quito upon your arrival please inform the concierge at check in and he or she will arrange a safe taxi for your journey. Colonial Quito is approximately 60 miles from our hotel. Please do not walk around with your valuables on your person; you should leave all important items at your hotel. If you are not met at the airport for some reason (we will have your arrival information) please call 1-800-180-180 in Ecuador or (593)-2-2930264 to reach the Garden Hotel, inform them that you are with Zephyr, give them your cell phone number and they should be there quickly to pick you up.

Finishing Time & Place On the last afternoon of the tour, we will be flying from Baltra (in the Galapagos Islands) back to the Quito airport, arriving in the late afternoon/early evening. You may book flights back home this evening (many flights back to North America depart late at night) or extend your stay in the area. We will be back in Quito by 7 PM at the latest on the last day of the tour, November 20.

Delays In Your Travel Plans We will provide your flight information to our hotel, so minor delays in your arrival time should not be a problem. Please be aware we will spend our first night near the airport and then depart for the airport again the next morning (November 12) for our 30-minute flight to Coca, the gateway to the untamed Amazon jungle. If you get delayed and can’t meet us at the appointed time, please contact your guide Kris Keys in one or more of the following ways with your revised travel information. It is possible we may be able to meet you in the airport the morning of November 12 in time to make our flight to Coca.  Text +1-406-425-1804 or email [email protected] or [email protected]  Call 1-800-180-180 in Ecuador or (593)-2-2930264 to reach the Garden Hotel (note we will depart from the hotel on the morning of November 12) If you are significantly delayed, we will help you rebook a ticket to Coca and get you caught up with the group. Note that flights may be sold out and you will be responsible for any extra hotel, meal and transportation expenses incurred to get you to our jungle lodge in the Amazon.

Getting To and From Ecuador You will fly into and out of Quito Mariscal Sucre International Airport (airport code UIO). Flights to Ecuador from North America usually span about 12 hours. Ecuador is in the Central time zone, making this journey fairly painless when compared to Europe and Asia. Ticket prices to Ecuador from North America are currently very reasonable, though many do arrive and depart late at night. If you would like help finding the perfect flight please reference our transportation page of our website for Copyright Zephyr Adventures Page 1

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016 suggestions. When booking an international airline ticket, please keep in mind these things below:  Cheaper, advance-booking tickets generally have restrictions on changes and cancellations.  Changing your travel date a bit might result in a cheaper ticket price.  A travel agent may know about special fares.  We suggest first checking booking engines such as Google Flights or Orbitz and then comparing those fares to prices on the actual airlines’ websites.  Try flying from and to a major gateway city such as New York, Minneapolis, Chicago, Atlanta, or Los Angeles from the US.

Internal Flights You will need to book your own transportation to and from Quito, Ecuador. However, we will purchase your internal round trip flights between Quito-Coca and Quito-Baltra and bill you directly for this cost. These flights are expected to cost between $600 and $700.

Hotels and Contact Information Following are the hotels in which we will stay during our adventure. In an emergency, it is also possible to call the Zephyr office (888-758-8687, ext. 1) and we will attempt to reach the group. If you are arriving early and would like to make a reservation at the Garden Hotel, please let us know this and we can help you arrange it.

Night 1 Garden Hotel (593) 2-239-0264 San Jose Nights 2 – 4 La Selva Ecolodge 1-866-687-3109 Garzacoha Night 5 Hacienda Cusin (593) 6-291-8013 Otavalo Night 6 Villa Laguna (593) 5-252-4819 Santa Cruz Island Nights 7 - 9 Iguana Crossing & Casa Baronesa (593) 5-252-9301 Isabel Island

Where We Stay We stay in five separate locations during our ten-day tour. Night 1: Our first night in Ecuador is at a hotel conveniently only ten minutes from the Quito airport, since we have to turn around and head to the airport the very next morning (Colonial Quito town is over an hour away). The Garden Hotel has a great spa and beautiful gardens to soothe your travel weary muscles. We'll meet you here for an introductory dinner (if you arrive in time) and orientation. Nights 2 - 4: After a quick flight from Quito to Coca in the morning, we will take a short bus ride, a two-hour boat ride, a short hike, and a canoe ride before arriving at our luxury lodge in the Amazon. This five-star accommodation is set within the Amazon rainforest and boasts spacious rooms, peaceful hammocks, and gourmet meals. Some bungalows sleep up to four people, rather than the normal double occupancy. The scenery and having the privilege of being in the center of an astoundingly beautiful spot is well worth a potential additional roommate or two for our stay here. Night 5: We head back to Quito from the Amazon the same way we arrive, and from the Quito airport go 70 miles north to the indigenous town of Otavalo in the Ecuadorian Highlands. Our 17th century colonial style mansion (Hacienda Cusin) has a breathtaking view and beautiful gardens. We can hike or mountain bike from right outside our door. Night 6: Today, we fly from Quito to the Galapagos. Upon arrival this afternoon, we take a boat ferry from the island of Baltra to our next destination: the island of Santa Cruz. We will spend one night here in Galapagos’ most populated town of Puerto Ayora, in a simple hotel right outside the center of town. Nights 7 – 9: Our final three nights are spent on the island of Isabela, in a boutique oceanfront hotel nestled between a pristine beach and a natural lagoon. This is the perfect location from which to base our excursions on the island, and a wonderful, relaxing place to return to each afternoon. Note, most of the group will be at Iguana Crossing, but three rooms

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016 are at the adjacent sister property called Casa Baronesa, a few minutes’ walk down the beach from the main building. These are both luxury properties.

Extending Your Stay If you have the time, it is certainly worth extending your vacation in Ecuador. There is a lot to do in the area! Here are a few ideas for you to consider:  Otavalo and the Central Highlands: Otavalo, north of Quito, has hosted one of the most important markets in the Andes for hundreds of years. It is a colorful, outdoor, open air marketplace offering everything you could possibly imagine and then some; from exotic fresh fruit and homemade tortillas to rugs, animals, jewelry and magic. If time permits a visit on a Saturday, this experience of this market would no doubt live in your memories for many years to come. The backdrop to this cultural crossroad are the Andes mountains, snow-capped and massive, displaying the integrity of vendors for the past century who often rode in on horseback or walked to sell what they had, always hopeful of striking the better bargain. The best place to stay in this area is Hacienda Cusin where we will spend our 5th night of the tour. This is not very far from Quito, so it is affordable to get a personal driver to take you there. This is best arranged through the hotel.  Banos: A few hours south of Quito, Banos offers plenty of entertainment for the active tourist. From mountain biking, road biking, rock climbing, rafting, hiking, sighting waterfalls and, of course, being that close to an active volcano: hot springs! One could easily spend a week here and be fully entertained. We recommend a few days here. The Luna Runtun hotel will remind you that you are on vacation. To get there, we recommend using the efficient bus system of Ecuador. You can arrange with your hotel to get a taxi to the central bus terminal in Quito and again from the bus terminal at your destination.  Cuenca: If you are looking for a beautiful colonial city and some English-speaking expats to sip coffee with then this is the place for you. This colonial city lies south of Quito and is a Unesco World Heritage Site with a rich history of Incan, Canari and Spanish culture. Cobblestoned streets, art galleries and great food make Cuenca the destination it is. The nearby Parque Nacional Cajas is great for hiking and rare animal spotting, though it is often very rainy. Cuenca is easily accessible via a short flight from Quito occur daily offered through TAME. This would be a great place to stop on your way to a mediation retreat in Vilcabamaba.  Vilcabamba: A one-hour flight south from Quito will also take you to Vilcabamba, a town that is synonymous with longevity. The beautiful mountain scenery, mild weather and laid-back mentality attract many retirees and backpackers. Daily activities include great hiking, horseback riding and exploring the nearby Parque Nacional Podocarpus. Meditation, yoga retreats, and luxury accommodations can be easily found.  Cotopaxi Volcano: If you are wanting an active one-day or two-day add-on to your trip, 31 miles south of Quito in a very small town of Latacunga there lives the active stratovolcano of Cotopaxi. Not for the faint of heart, a summit to the top attracts many visitors though few complete the challenge. Great for day hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding, a lovely hostel called the Secret Garden exists there, an ecolodge run by lost travelers. If you are seeking a communal living, mountain experience this is a great break from the city and the views here are nothing short of spectacular. Again, this is affordable to reach via a private shuttle arranged by your hotel.

Passport and Visa To enter Ecuador, U.S. citizens and those of most western countries must have a valid passport with an expiration date at least 6 months after your intended date of departure, a valid return ticket exiting the country, and two blank pages. See the US State Department website for more details. No visa is required. If you need to acquire a passport, you should call your local passport agency today as normal processing takes 4-8 weeks (although you can expedite this at extra cost).

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

Time Zones & Jet Lag Ecuador is on the Central time zone, the same as Minneapolis, Minnesota, therefore jet lag shouldn’t be a big problem when flying from North America. The best cure for jetlag is to immediately get into your new time schedule, staying awake until your normal bedtime. We suggest avoiding a catnap upon arriving in Ecuador but, if you must, you should limit it to no more than an hour or so. By going to bed very tired at a normal bedtime in your new time zone, you have a decent chance at avoiding jet lag in future days.

Travel Safety Crime is, unfortunately, a problem in Ecuador, especially petty crime like pickpocketing. This is one of the realities of economic disparity in many countries. However, when you are with the group you should be entirely safe and with a little caution you will have no problems at all. Specifically, please keep in mind the following, especially when not with our group:  When taking a taxi, it is best to arrange one through your hotel, inside the airport, or at an official taxi stand rather than hailing one on the street. Note the taxi number and ensure that the numbered taxi you enter is in fact the one you ordered.  Please keep your valuables in your hotel safe (if available) or in a safe place on your person, such as in a secure front pocket or travel pouch.  Avoid walking by yourself (or driving a rented vehicle) at night.  Keep your valuables close to you (don’t leave your purse or backpack unattended at restaurants, even for a minute).

The Weather We base all our trip dates on two factors: historical weather patterns and tourism seasons. This often leads us to the “shoulder seasons,” when weather is usually good and crowds are at a minimum, and our trips in Ecuador are no exception. We will be traveling to many different climates throughout this tour. Being so close to the equator means temperatures vary little from season to season, but typically the average daytime temperature in November for where we will be staying in the Amazon is 61 – 79 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 – 79 degrees Fahrenheit for the Galapagos Islands. Tropical rainstorms are common but usually last less than an hour. The rainy season in the Galapagos is roughly January to May though this usually means a light one or two hour shower in the afternoon and otherwise sunny skies. In the highlands the dry season runs from June to September, though once again this is not particularly rainy. The Amazon is a rainforest, so experiences year-round rain. The weather is one element out of our control and you should be prepared for both rain and sun, hot and cold. If it rains, we will adjust our daily schedule as necessary.

The Activities & Equipment We have a variety of activities on our Ecuador Adventure. We will be hiking, biking, kayaking, and snorkeling, but no special skills are required to enjoy this trip and everything is optional. As on all of our tours, you can certainly opt out of any planned group activity if you would rather relax and spend the day at our hotel or chill out on the beach. Our time in the Amazon will be spent doing short walks and hikes and exploring the natural world of the Amazon. In other words, it won’t be the most active part of our trip! We suggest you relax and enjoy all this spectacular area of the world has to offer, and allow yourself to be pampered a bit by our lodge staff. In the Otavalo area, you will have the opportunity to mountain bike right from our hotel. And on the Galapagos, our activities will include a mix of bicycling, hiking (including the option to do a more strenuous hike to the top of a volcano!), swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Of course, we will also spend plenty of time observing the wildlife for which the Galapagos is famous! Copyright Zephyr Adventures Page 4

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

To properly set your expectations: the equipment used in the Galapagos (bikes, kayaks, snorkel gear) is not high-end. This is what they have and, while all the equipment is included in the price, you may find your bikes and kayaks to be a little “tired” and your snorkel equipment to also be well-used. If you have your own mask and snorkel, you should consider bringing it with you if you have the space.

Altitude We do not spend much time at altitude while in Ecuador, though we begin our trip and will be flying to and from Quito throughout our trip, which sits at an elevation of 9,350 feet. It is the second highest capital in the world, just after La Paz, Bolivia. The next day we will fly to the Amazon, which is right back at about 1,000 feet elevation. Our time in the Galapagos is at sea level. However some people may experience mild symptoms of altitude sickness (such as headaches or sleeplessness) which in most cases can be remedied by drinking lots of water, getting rest and taking pain relievers like aspirin.

Guides & Coordinator We will have a variety of professional Ecuadorian guides on this trip, ranging from Amazon specialists to our Galapagos specialists and a variety of boat captains and assistants in between. In addition, you will likely have one Zephyr Adventures staff member on your trip as a Coordinator, if the size of the group is large. It is this person’s job to make sure everything goes smoothly, to solve any problems you might have, and to make sure the groups’ needs are being properly presented to our Ecuadorian staff. Because our local staff is so good, often it seems as if your Zephyr Coordinator will have little to do! This is the sign of a good trip.

Vaccinations & Health You should visit your doctor or a travel clinic in advance to discuss what vaccinations you should receive prior to traveling to the Amazon and Ecuador. You can also find recommendations at the Centers for Disease Control website (http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/). Make sure you are updated for routine vaccinations against diphtheria, tetanus, measles, and polio. If you were to have any additional immunization for travel to Ecuador, it would likely be for hepatitis A and/or typhoid. Of less concern but still an issue are hepatitis B and rabies. The general risk of contracting malaria in Ecuador is low. However the infected mosquitos are still present. Mosquitoes can be a problem in the Amazon where the air is humid and warm and water is everywhere. Some people prefer to wear long pants and shirts while in high risk areas while others prefer medication. Please consult your doctor or consult the website listed above for more information. Zika outbreaks have been reported in Ecuador. Because of the risk of birth defects in babies born to women who were infected with Zika while pregnant, women who are pregnant should not travel to Ecuador.

Money Ecuador uses the US dollar as its standard currency. The sucre, their previous national currency was replaced in hopes of stabilizing the economy. We recommend you use ATMs upon arrival or bring cash from home. You might consider wearing a money belt to carry your cash and valuables. You should also have a backup in case your ATM card doesn’t work in South Africa or in case you can’t find an ATM. Your ATM should work if it has a Visa or Cirrus logo on it. Credit cards can be used in all major hotels, restaurants, and shops. Most businesses accept Visa and Mastercard but it is also possible to use Diners and less so American Express. Ecuador has been on the chip system for many years so (the more secure) chip card readers are now more widely used, but non-chip cards can still be swiped manually. Be sure to notify your bank or credit card company ahead of time that you will be traveling in Ecuador or they may assume your (legitimate) charges are fraudulent and put a lock on your card, preventing you from using it.

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

Tipping Tipping in Ecuador is not common practice. In mid-level to upscale restaurants and bars, 10% service charge will be added onto your bill in addition to a 12% tax. There is no need to tip additionally on top of that unless the service was superb. At hotels or with porters, a dollar goes a long way. Typically porters expect fifty cents per bag. In taxis it is best to round up the fare amount, but remember that tipping is not expected nor is it practiced by the locals.

Electricity & Phone The United States and Canada use 110-volt electricity. Ecuador uses 120v, it is the same as in the U.S. Most countries outside North America use 220-volt electricity. If you plan to bring any electronics with you, you may need to use a “converter” or a “transformer” to change the 220-volt electricity into 110-volt electricity in order to use a 110-volt appliance (unless your appliance is dual voltage). If your appliance is dual voltage, you can switch it to work on 220 volts, without a transformer or converter. The electrical outlets outside the United States and Canada are usually different from those in North America. The plug on the appliance you use in the U.S. and Canada won't fit into the outlet in most foreign countries. Therefore, you will need a plug adapter in order to plug in your appliance into the foreign outlets. See http://www.travelproducts.com/electricity_guide.htm for more details. Now, many travelers just enable their cell phones to work overseas or use web-based calling programs that don’t require mobile data use like Google Hangout, Skype or WhatsApp (available when there is a wifi connection). Check with your mobile provider to see what your options are.

Food & Drink “Traditional” Ecuadorean fare differs greatly depending on location. This is indicative of the locality of most food served in restaurants and hotels. When outside of major cities you will find the food to be traditional and locally sourced. When in the Andes a few colloquial specialties do exist; for example, Cuy, a guinea pig often fried and served with rice. Fritada is a very common lunch served almost everywhere in Ecuador and consists of pieces of fried pork served with avocado, fried sweet plantains and hominy or large corn kernels, boiled. One dish not to miss is Locro, potato-based stew often served with cheese and avocado. While near the sea, one has to indulge in ceviche, though be warned, Ecuadorean ceviche is often much soupier than other varieties and is served with popcorn. One of the best aspects of food and drink in Ecuador is all of the fresh fruit, often made into jugo (fresh juice) or batidos (blended fruit with milk). Keep an open mind, enjoy the freshly made tortillas and drink all of the wine you want before you come as it is very hard & expensive to come by in Ecuador.

The Ecuadorian People Kind and prideful, the Ecuadorian people are striking in their beauty and incredibly patient. Nothing moves quickly in Ecuador and this doesn’t seem to bother anyone (except perhaps outsiders). It does not do any good to try to make things move along faster while in Ecuador, you’ll just slow things down even more! Lunchtime has no set limit (notice it is not called lunch hour). In fact, business open when they are ready, not when the customers are! Colloquialisms reflect this as ya mismo which translates into “already now” or “any minute now” and usually means about 30 minutes; ahora mismo which translates to “right now,” and usually means about 15 minutes. Despite their reluctance to adhere to a more timely method of living, Ecuadorians are very hard workers and those who work hard also often play hard. Fiestas are taken very seriously and one must plan in advance, as parties last into the early hours of the morning with loud music, a lot of dancing and Pilsner. The majority of people in Ecuador are catholic, one quarter of the people are part indigenous, and a variety of languages are spoken everywhere. The primary indigenous language Quichua can be heard around Otavalo and sometimes in the Amazon.

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

About the Ecuadorian Amazon The Amazon is located in South America and covers 2.1 million square miles of land. Brazil has 60%, Peru has 13%, and Colombia has 10% while other countries, like Ecuador, also have portions. It is the world’s largest tropical rainforest, crisscrossed with thousands of rivers, the most exceptional being the mighty Amazon itself. The Amazon Basin is famous for its astonishing biodiversity. In Ecuadorian Amazon (also known as the Oriente), the Yasuní Biosphere Reserve (which we will visit on our trip) is believed by many to be home to the most diverse set of species on the Earth. While we won’t get to see them all, our local guides will ensure that we see as many as possible from the list below while we are there:  Over 300 species of mammals ranging from monkeys to jaguars  800 species of fish (including piranhas!)  350 species of reptiles (including anacondas and iguanas)  Thousands of species of plants, trees and insects (one acre may contain 70,000 different insect species!)  1600 estimated species of birds in Ecuador (more than double the number bird species in the entire country of North America), including some of the more spectacular ones, like toucans, macaws and tanagers Ecuador’s Yasuní National Park is home to two tiny isolated tribes of indigenous people: the Taromenane and the Tagaeri. They live cut off from the modern world within the borders of the national park where their rights – including the right to be left alone – are protected. There is a good book on the reading list about the tribes if you want to learn more. According to many, there is a vast reserve of oil under the Ecuadorian Amazon which, as you might imagine sparks a great deal of controversy between people who want to protect the wildlife (and indigenous populations) in in the area and those who want to profit from it.

About the Galápagos The Galápagos are a group of islands in the Pacific Ocean belonging to the country of Ecuador, nearly 1000 kilometers west of the continent and born from volcanoes erupting violently from the sea. Plant and animal species were isolated and evolved independently on different islands. Charles Darwin made the islands famous with his observations that contributed to his theory of evolution and natural selection. Noteworthy species on the island include land iguana, marine iguana, tortoise, green turtle, sea cucumber, flightless cormorant, green turtle, blue-footed booby, penguin, albatross, hawk, four species of mockingbirds, thirteen species of tanagers (popularly called Darwin’s finches) and sea lions. The archipelago consists of 18 main islands (because they are at least one square kilometer in size), three smaller islands, and 107 rocks and islets. The southernmost islet and the northernmost one are separated by a distance of 137 miles. Five of the islands are inhabited (Baltra, Floreana, Isabela, San Cristobal and Santa Cruz) and we set foot on three of those islands:  Baltra is a small island in the center and is home to the main airport of Galápagos. This is where we land on our flight from Quito. Upon arrival, all visitors are transported to one of two docks, either to embark on a cruise boat, or – in our case – to a ferry that will connect us to the island of Santa Cruz, where we spend our first night in the Galápagos.  Santa Cruz Island has the largest human population in the Galápagos. We spend one night in the main town of Puerto Ayora, which is home to the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galápagos National Park Service. They jointly operate a tortoise breeding center with the ultimate goal of reintroducing them to their natural habitat.  The largest, Isabela, is shaped like a giant seahorse and makes up close to three-fourths of the total land area in the Galápagos. It is home to penguins (this is the only place in the world where a penguin can be in its natural habitat in the Northern Hemisphere), flightless cormorants, marine and land iguanas, pelicans, crabs, tortoises, Darwin finches, hawks and doves. On the southeastern tip of the island lies the village of Puerto Villamil, where we spend three nights.

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

Although the Galápagos Islands are on the Equator, the Humboldt Current, a current of cold Antarctic water that flows up the South American coast, causes frequent drizzles during most of the year. On the larger islands, the vegetation in the highlands tends to be green and lush, while lowlands are more prone to arid and semi-arid vegetation such as thorny shrubs, cacti, and almost bare volcanic rock. In 1959, a hundred years after Darwin published his The Origin of Species, the Ecuadorian government protected 97.5% of the Galapagos by declaring it a national park (at this point the island population was under 2,000 people). In 1976, UNESCO recognized the islands as a World Heritage site and in 1986 a large section of the ocean surrounding the islands was declared a marine reserve (second in size only to Australia's Great Barrier Reef). By the 1980s, the island population had risen to more than 15,000 people, and now there are over 25,000 inhabitants. The largest ethnic group on the islands are the Mestizos, the descendants of Spanish colonists and indigenous population who arrived from continental Ecuador. A smaller number of whites (mostly Spanish descent) and descendants of early European and American colonists also remain on the islands. Until around 1970, the only way to visit the islands were via boats. Now, roughly half the visitors will base their visits on land (like us) and half continue to base their stays on a ship, sailboat or other vessel.

A Brief History of Ecuador People have been roaming the vast lands of present-day Ecuador for over 8,000 years. A multitude of pre-Columbian and pre-Incan tribes left remnants throughout the area, helping us piece together a history. Although the majority of indigenous people today live in the highlands and the Oriente (Amazon), in pre-Spanish (and pre-Inca) times the coastline supported the densest concentration of peoples. The coastal cultures of La Tolita, Bahía, Manta, Valdivia and Machalilla are paramount to Ecuadorian identity, their importance in many ways even eclipsing the Inca, who didn’t arrive in present-day Ecuador until a half century before the Spanish. It’s now generally accepted that Ecuador was populated by people migrating west from Brazil, who were drawn to the habitable landscapes along the shore. Ecuador’s first permanent sedentary culture was the Valdivia more than 5500 years ago. One of the oldest settled cultures in the Americas, the Valdivia are famous for their finely wrought pottery, particularly the “Venus of Valdivia.” These were feminine ceramic figurines with exaggerated breasts and genitalia, depicted in various stages of pregnancy and childbirth. They were likely used in fertility rituals. Beginning sometime around 600 BC, societies became more stratified: they were ruled by an elite caste of shamans and merchants who conducted highly valued long-distance trade. Slowly, beginning probably around AD 800, cultures became integrated into larger, more hierarchical societies. Around the end of the 1st century AD, the expansionist Caras of the coast conquered the peaceful Quitus of the highlands and the combined cultures became collectively known as the Quitu-Caras, or the Shyris. They were the dominant force in the Ecuadorian highlands until about the 1300s, when the Puruhá of the central highlands became increasingly powerful. The third important culture was the Cañari, further south. These were the cultures the Inca encountered when it began its expansion into the north. The Inca Empire: Until the early 15th century, the Inca Empire was concentrated around Cuzco in Peru. That changed dramatically during the rule of Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui, whose expansionist policies set into motion the creation of the vast Inca Empire. By the time the Inca reached Ecuador they were met with fierce resistance. The Cañari put up a resolute defense against the Inca. When they were finally overcome, the Inca massacred thousands of Caras and dumped them into a lake near Otavalo, which supposedly turned the waters red and gave the lake its name, Laguna Yaguarcocha (Lake of Blood). The subjugation of the north took many years, during which the Inca Tupac fathered a son with a Cañari princess. The son, Huayna Capac, grew up in Ecuador and succeeded his father to the Inca throne. He spent years traveling throughout his empire, from Bolivia to Ecuador, constantly suppressing uprisings from all sides. Wherever possible, he strengthened his position by marriage and in the process produced two sons: Atahualpa, who grew up in Quito, and Huáscar, who was raised in Cuzco. When Huayna Capac died in 1526 he left his empire not to one son, as was traditional, but to two. Thus the Inca Empire was divided for the first time. The rivalry between Huayna Capac’s two sons worsened, and the Inca nation broke Copyright Zephyr Adventures Page 8

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016 into civil war. After several years of fighting, the Inca Empire was divided and weakened when Pizarro arrived in 1532 with plans to conquer the Incas. The Spanish Conquest: Pizarro’s advance was rapid and dramatic. His horseback-riding, armor wearing, cannon-firing conquistadors were believed to be godlike, and although they were few in number, they spread terror among the local people. In late 1532, a summit meeting was arranged between Pizarro and the Incas. The Incas arrived and the conquistadors massacred most of them. Atahualpa was held for ransom, and incalculable quantities of gold, silver and other valuables poured into Cajamarca. Instead of being released when the ransom was paid, however, Atahualpa was put through a sham trial, sentenced to death, and executed in 1533. His death effectively brought the Inca Empire to an end. Despite the Inca’s short presence in Ecuador (just over 100 years), they left an indelible mark on the country. The Colonial Era: From 1535, the colonial era proceeded with no major uprisings by indigenous Ecuadorians. Francisco Pizarro made his brother Gonzalo the governor of Quito in 1540. During the first centuries of colonial rule, Lima, Peru was the seat of Ecuador’s political administration. Ecuador remained a peaceful colony throughout this period, and agriculture and the arts flourished. New products such as cattle and bananas were introduced from Europe, which remain important in Ecuador today. Churches and monasteries were constructed and decorated with unique carvings and paintings that blended Spanish and indigenous artistic influences, still admired by visitors today. Life was comfortable for the ruling colonialists, but the indigenous people (and later the mestizos, people of mixed Spanish and indigenous descent) were treated abysmally under their rule. A system of forced labor was not only tolerated but encouraged, and by the 18th century there were several indigenous uprisings against the Spanish ruling classes. Social unrest, as well as the introduction of cocoa and sugar plantations in the northwest, prompted landowners to import African slave laborers. Much of the rich Afro-Ecuadorian culture found in Esmereldes province today is a legacy of this period. Independence: The first serious attempt to liberate Ecuador from Spanish rule occurred in 1809. The group managed to take Quito and install a government, which lasted only 24 days before royalist troops (loyal to Spain) regained control. Independence was finally achieved with the help of Simón Bolívar, the Venezuelan liberator who freed Columbia in 1819. It took almost another three years before Ecuador was entirely liberated from Spanish rule. The decisive battle was fought on May 24, 1822, when one of Bolívar’s finest officers, Antonio José de Sucre, defeated the royalists at the Battle of Pichincha and took Quito. This battle is commemorated at a stunningly situated monument on the flanks of Volcán Pichincha, overlooking the capital. Bolívar’s idealistic dream was to form a united South America, and he began by amalgamating Venezuela, Peru, Columbia and Ecuador into the independent nation of Gran Columbia. This lasted only eight years, with Ecuador becoming fully independent in 1830. In the same year, a treaty was signed with Peru, drawing up a boundary between the two nations. Political Development: Following independence from Spain, Ecuador’s history unfolded with unbridled political warfare between liberals and conservatives. The turmoil frequently escalated to violence. Throughout much of the 20th century, Ecuador’s political sphere remained volatile, though the country never experienced the bloodshed or brutal military dictatorships suffered by other Latin American countries. That’s not to say the military never took the reins of power, with the 20th century seeing almost as many periods of military rule as civilian rule. In the 10 years between 1930 and 1940, 17 different presidents took a shot at leading Ecuador, not one of whom completed a term. Yellow Gold to Black Gold: Until the 1970s, Ecuador was the archetypal “banana republic,” and the fruit was the country’s single most important export. In fact, Ecuador exported more bananas than any country in the world! Although bananas are a staple of the country’s economy today, they ceased being Ecuador’s sole export after the discovery of oil in the Oriente in 1967. By 1973, oil exports had quickly risen to first place, and by the early 1980s they accounted for well over half of total export earnings. Oil undoubtedly boosted the economy, though politicians from the left, allied with indigenous-rights groups, say much of the largesse remained in the hands of a few controlling interests with little benefit to the many. The statistics support this claim, with the majority of the rural population at an equal – or lower – living standard than they experienced in the 1970s. Copyright Zephyr Adventures Page 9

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After oil was discovered, Ecuador began to borrow money, with the belief that profits from oil exports would enable the country to repay its foreign debts. But this proved impossible in the mid-1980s due to the sharp decline in Ecuador’s oil exports. World oil prices slumped in 1986, and in 1987 a disastrous earthquake wiped out about 40km of oil pipeline, severely damaging both the environment and the economy. The discovery of oil also opened up vast tracts of Ecuador’s Amazon Basin to exploration, affecting both the rainforest and the local indigenous tribes – some of whom had never before encountered outsiders. Ecuador continues to rely on oil as its economic mainstay, but reserves are not as large as had been anticipated. Overreliance on oil revenues has also wreaked havoc on the economy when the world price of oil collapsed (as it did most recently in 2008). Return to Democracy: The 1980s and early ’90s were a continuing struggle between conservatives and liberals, with a few corruption scandals that weakened public confidence in the ruling elites. The contenders in the 1996 election were two firebrand politicians from Guayaquil, both known for their brashness. The candidate who won, Abdala Bucaram, was nicknamed ‘El Loco’ (The Madman) for his fiery, curse-laden style of oration and his penchant for performing at rock concerts as part of his campaign. Bucaram promised cheap public housing, lower prices for food staples and free medicine; but instead he promptly devalued Ecuador’s currency, the sucre, and increased living costs, and was often spotted carousing in nightclubs by Quito residents. Within a few months, massive strikes led by trade unions and the Confederation of Indigenous Nationalities of Ecuador (Conaie) paralyzed the country. Congress declared Bucaram ‘mentally unfit’ and terminated his presidency, and Bucaram fled to Panama. The effects of a nasty El Niño weather pattern and the sagging oil market of 1997–98 sent the economy into a tailspin in 1999, the same year that shrimp exports dropped by 80% following devastating shrimp diseases. When inflation topped 60% – making Ecuador’s the worst in Latin America –then-president (Mahuad) took drastic measures: he pinned Ecuador’s economic survival on dollarization, a process whereby Ecuador’s unstable national currency would be replaced by the US dollar. Dollarization: Dollarization has been used successfully in a few other struggling countries, including nearby Panama (where the US dollar is called a balboa), but when the Mahuad declared his plan to dump the national currency, the country erupted in strikes, protests and road closures. In January of 2000, marches shut down the capital, and protesters took over the legislative palace, forcing Mahuad to resign. Two days later – and largely due to the international pressure that followed Latin America’s first military coup in two decades – the presidency was turned over to Vice President Gustavo Noboa. Noboa went ahead with dollarization, and in September 2000 the US dollar became the official currency. Although only one year earlier 6000 sucres bought one dollar, people were forced to exchange their sucres at the dramatically inflated rate of 25,000 to $1. Their losses were severe. Along with dollarizing the economy, Noboa also implemented austerity measures to obtain $2 billion in aid from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and other international lenders. At the end of 2000, gas and cooking-fuel prices sky- rocketed (largely because of dollarization) and the new year saw frequent strikes and protests by unions and indigenous groups. The economy finally stabilized, and Noboa left office on somewhat favorable terms. After Noboa, former coup leader Lucio Gutiérrez, elected president in 2002, promised a populist agenda but instead implemented IMF austerity measures to finance the country’s massive debt. Protests erupted in the capital, and in 2005 congress voted overwhelmingly to remove Gutiérrez (the third Ecuadorian president ousted in eight years), replacing him with Vice President Alfredo Palacio. A political newcomer who referred to himself as a ‘simple doctor,’ Palacio soon turned his attention to the social problems his predecessor had abandoned. In order to fund health and education programs and kick-start the economy, Palacio announced he would redirect oil profits earmarked for paying the foreign debt. An essential partner in this endeavor was Rafael Correa, a US-educated economist, whom Palacio appointed as his finance minister and who later carried out even more aggressive social reforms – while also consolidating power – after becoming president in 2006.

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

Ecuador Today Today Ecuador is a stable country, especially considering its colorful past. This is largely due to Rafael Vicente Correa, the current President of Ecuador. In February of 2013, Correa won an unprecedented third term in the country’s elections, a remarkable feat considering the country has been through seven presidents in the 10 years before Correa was elected. Correa is a US-trained economist who has maintained 50% approval rating largely due to heavy spending on roads, bridges, schools and hospitals. He actively partakes in oil export re-negotiations and is giving Ecuador the educated and austere voice it needs. In May 2016, Ecuador was hit with two devastating earthquakes that struck the northeastern part of the country. Though traumatic, this event has brought the people of Ecuador closer together as they joined forces in their unified struggle to rebuild the most affected areas of their country. The Galapagos Islands, the Amazon rainforest and the capital city of Quito were unaffected by these earthquakes. On the whole, Ecuador today is better than yesterday, with continual flocks of tourists, newfound oil reserves and a president that is not bilk citizens of the country’s money. Ecuador is enjoying some well-deserved peace. Few countries hold as much beauty as Ecuador does, a fact all Ecuadorians are savvy to and love to talk about.

Recommended Pre-Trip Readings In addition to a guidebook, you might wish to read about Ecuador either before the trip or while on the road (or in the air). Following are some suggested titles:  The Unconquered: In Search of the Amazon's Last Uncontacted Tribes by Scott Wallace National Geographic writer Wallace has sensitively documented the immensity, history, the terror, and the beauty of one of the world's last true wildernesses and the people who live within it,in an age when there is little left in the world that can be said to be still “virgin.”  Darwin in Galapagos; Footsteps to a New World by K. Thalia Grant and Gregory B. Estes In 1835, during his voyage on HMS Beagle, Charles Darwin spent several weeks in Galápagos exploring the islands and making extensive notes on their natural history. This is the first book to recreate Darwin's historic visit to the islands, following in his footsteps day by day and island by island as he records all that he observes around him.  Floreana, A Woman's Pilgrimage to the Galapagos by Margret Wittmer A breathtaking firsthand account of Wittmer's successful attempt to settle the small, unpopulated Galapagos island of Floreana. In 1932, Margaret Wittmer leaves Germany with her husband and step-son and travels to Floreana, where they settle, clear land, and, after five months of living in old pirates' caves, move into the house they finish just in time for Margaret to have a baby. At times the entire situation borders on the unbelievable, but Margaret Wittmer provides equal measures of intrigue, fantasy and common sense as she writes in her down-to-earth and often very humorous fashion about her years on Floreana.  The Old Man Who Reads Love Stories by Luis Sepulveda (translated by Peter Bush) In a remote river town deep in the Ecuadoran jungle, Antonio José Bolívar seeks refuge in amorous novels. But tourists and opportunists are making inroads into the area, and the balance of nature is making a dangerous shift.  The Queen of Water by Laura Resau and Maria Virginai Farinango Born in an Andean village in Ecuador, Virginia lives with her large family in a small, earthen-walled dwelling. When seven-year-old Virginia is taken from her village to be a servant to a mestizo couple, she has no idea what the future holds. In this poignant novel based on a true story, the authors recount one girl's unforgettable journey to self-discovery. Virginia's story will speak to anyone who has ever struggled to find his or her place in the world. It will make you laugh and cry, and ultimately, it will fill you with hope.  Galapagos by Kurt Vonnegut Copyright Zephyr Adventures Page 11

Ecuador: Amazon & Galapagos Adventure :: November 11 - 20, 2016

The story takes the reader back one million years, to A.D. 1986. A simple vacation cruise suddenly becomes an evolutionary journey. Thanks to an apocalypse, a small group of survivors stranded on the Galápagos Islands are about to become the progenitors of a brave, new, and totally different human race. In this inimitable novel, America’s master satirist looks at our world and shows us all that is sadly, madly awry–and all that is worth saving.  The Panama Hat Trail by Tom Miller Panama hats being a misnomer, the indispensable accessory of Bogart is Ecuadorian born and bred, but named for their proliferate use by workers building the Panama Canal. Renowned travel writer Tom Miller turns his attention to the quirks of Ecuador while following the trail of Panama hats from their origins as coastal toquilla palms to the finished product as straw hats in the Sierra. Miller is adept not only at describing the geography of Ecuador and the history of the hat, but also at observing of the quirks of Ecuadorian culture.  Savages by Joe Kane Like most oil-producing countries, the politics of petroleum have had a profound effect on Ecuador, its people, its government, its trade. One of the tribes most dramatically affected by oil production in Ecuador is the traditional Huaorani – like the oil, based in the Oriente, or Amazonian jungle. Joe Kane is a journalist who spent time with the Huaorani investigating the impact of oil production on their community. While Savages has been criticized for its clear bias in favor of the Huaorani, it is a fascinating account of what can happen in populations affected by the quest for oil.

Some information in this document was sited from: http://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-11449110; http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ecuador/history; http://www.life-in-ecuador.com/ecuador-people.html