ESTABLISHED 1970 BY CORKY ALEXANDER VOL. 39 NO. 14 JUL 18 – 31 2008 FREE

CELEBS LOVE JAPAN SCHOOLS AWAY WHO HAS JETTED IN? BOARDING SCHOOLS AROUND THE WORLD

JET–SET THE ALLURE OF A TICKET TO JAPAN

ALSO ONLINE AT WWW.WEEKENDERJAPAN.COM Abe BMW

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The Abe BMW International Sales Program is an unique service Abe BMW Corp. designed especially for our international clientele. Our goal is to 1-10-11, Higashiazabu, Minato-ku make your BMW experience rewarding, convenient, and trouble- Tokyo 106-0044 free. Here is a short summary of your benefits Phone: 03-3582-3281 Showroom located directly in the heart of downtown Tokyo Fax: 03-3582-8079 Professional sales consultation in English, including Email: [email protected] Japan-specific purchase related information Web: http://www.bmw.co.jp/english Showroom hours: Handling of all administrative steps in the process of registering your car in Japan Tuesday - Saturday 9:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. Sunday 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Cooperation with your company’s corporate car program Closed on Mondays Professional after sales hospitality by English-speaking Customer parking behind the showroom sales consultants Please contact our international sales team for details. English-speaking navigation system and on-board computer Individual appointments are possible upon request, Special financial packages and systems, created to meet the even at your home or at your office. needs of international clientele in Japan Maintainance program Abe BMW Premium Service available. Abe BMW

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Abe BMW. Abe BMW. Abe BMW Benefits for our Customers. Showroom. The X6 Debut The Abe BMW International Sales Program is an unique service International Sheer Abe BMW Corp. Program Driving Pleasure designed especially for our international clientele. Our goal is to 1-10-11, Higashiazabu, Minato-ku Test Driving Available make your BMW experience rewarding, convenient, and trouble- Tokyo 106-0044 free. Here is a short summary of your benefits Phone: 03-3582-3281 Showroom located directly in the heart of downtown Tokyo Fax: 03-3582-8079 Professional sales consultation in English, including Email: [email protected] Japan-specific purchase related information Web: http://www.bmw.co.jp/english Showroom hours: Handling of all administrative steps in the process of registering your car in Japan Tuesday - Saturday 9:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. Sunday 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Cooperation with your company’s corporate car program Closed on Mondays Professional after sales hospitality by English-speaking Customer parking behind the showroom sales consultants Please contact our international sales team for details. English-speaking navigation system and on-board computer Individual appointments are possible upon request, Special financial packages and systems, created to meet the even at your home or at your office. needs of international clientele in Japan Maintainance program Abe BMW Premium Service available.  | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue FAMILY FOCUS ESTABLISHED 1970 BY CORKY ALEXANDER VOL. 39 NO. 14 JUL 18 – 31 2008 FREE

06 Community Calendar The city events to be seen at 08 Feature Destination Tokyo 10 Movie Reviews Latest movie releases 11 Movie Plus Indiana Jones premiere 12 Fine Dining Trattoria II Boccalone 13 Dining Brunch at Ekki Bar and Grill 16 Travel Celebs who’ve jetted in to Tokyo 20 Business/Investments Regular business advice 21 Business Profile Cathay Pacific 23 Ongoings Eisa Festival 24 School’s In Boarding schools abroad 25 School’s Out Hands on Tokyo 27 Bill’s Partyline 29 Arts Giles John

••• Tokyo has long been considered one of the world’s most exotic global cities and those who fly in here are often considered to part of the world’s ‘jet-setters.’ In our feature on page eight, we look at what has made Tokyo such a cool destination in the eyes of the world and on page 16, we look at just some of the celebrities that have jetted in over the years. For those young jet-setters to be, we look at some boarding schools where kids to gain their education abroad (page 24) and in Fine Dining on page 12, you can jet over to Italy without ever having to leave the country. Enjoy!

Caroline Pover, Publisher Photography. Wong Irwin by Photos ••• The Bailey–Fall family taking time out in their garden. The Bailey–Fall Family

icole Fall came to Tokyo in June 1998 and so has works. Most of her clients are people in the creative ON THE COVER: Images supplied by British Airways, who are celebrating 60 years of flights to Japan. Cover designed by Chris May. Njust celebrated her tenth anniversary of living and financial industries, plus the odd celebrity (no in Japan. She met her husband Marc Bailey here in names mentioned!). Japan and the British couple now have two children, The two children have both been attending a Eden who is six years old and Raffy, who is four. Japanese kindergarten in Hiroo and are both fluent Marc has been living in Japan on and off for 13 in Japanese. Eden graduated in March and now is years, after originally arriving as a student to help attending a Japanese elementary school. Nicole adds his brother run a bar in . After a period of that thanks to their understanding of the Japanese traveling he came back to live in Japan as a broker. language, both children are able to access the com- These days, when not working, he can be found on munity easily. the other side of the same bars in which he once Both children are extremely busy and for Nicole worked. and Marc, the weekends are spent running around Nicole set up her own company, Bespoke Tokyo, making sure that the kids are entertained and happy. two years ago (www.bespoketokyo.jp). Bespoke is Saturday mornings will see Raffy playing a form of a high-end destination consultancy that specializes South American soccer while Eden goes to Japanese in designing urban safaris and intelligent guiding Girl Scouts. Recently she has been learning first-aid, for people who want to understand how Tokyo camping, and cooking. WEEKENDER—JAPAN’S QUALITY ENGLISH MAGAZINE PUBLISHER Caroline Pover ASSOCIATE PUBLISHERS Rajiv Trehan, George Taylor, Emily Downey EDITOR & DESIGNER Marie Teather ADVERTISEMENT DESIGNER Chris May TRAVEL & SOCIETY EDITOR Bill Hersey ARTS EDITOR Owen Schaefer EVENTS EDITOR Danielle Tate-Stratton DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Stephen Young MARKETING CONSULTANT Amy Dose CONTRIBUTORS Owen Schaefer, Benjamin Freeland, Robert Forrest, Ian de Stains, Phil Gibb, William Casper, Ulara Nakamura, Miki S. Noguchi. OFFICES at Caroline Pover, Inc., 5th floor, Chuo Iikura Building, 3-4-11 Azabudai, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0041 Tel. 03-5549-2038 Fax: 03-5549-2039 Email: [email protected]. Opinions expressed by WEEKENDER contributors are not necessarily those of the Publisher.

FOUNDED IN 1970 BY MILLARD H. “CORKY” ALEXANDER

Answers from Crossword #30 (Weekender Jul 04)

1 2 3 4 5 6 S S P A R T Y F I 7 8 S U M M E R O O L O N G

N I O G O L 9 10 11 B L M O C H A W O 12 13 14 F E T E S U O R E E V E 15 D S E P T E M B E R E

T L E P 16 17 Eden, 7, and Raffy, 4. I C E D T E A M A T S U R I

L S O I 18 19 20 21 Are you happy with the medical services available in Japan? To register your opinion on the S F E S T I V A L S A 22 23 medical services available to foreigners here, go to www.weekenderjapan.com and take part in our H U M I D E I E A G L E survey. The survey will be online for an extended period of time and the results of the 2008 Weekender Medical 24 25 N E A D I E U L M Services Survey will be published in depth later this year.

H S M R A O 26 27 L A P T O P G E M I N I 28 T A S H O R E I D Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14  COMMUNITY CALENDAR

The New York Symphonic Ensemble returns to in collaboration with the Marunouchi Special Orchestra today from 4–6pm. Over 100 musicians will perform works such as Corelli’s La folia Op.5 No.12 at the MARUCUBE building. Admission is free.

The first Indonesian Festival takes place today and tomorrow in Park and includes Indonesian dance and music groups, traditional food and drink, and information on com- Face-to-face counseling in English, panies and NGOs working with and in Indonesia. For more information (in Japanese) see

Japanese and other languages by SAT 19 JULY www.cpi-mate.gr.jp/indonesia-fes.html. professional, qualified therapists Celebrate Colombia’s National Day from 10am–5pm at Park. The event will also on a flexible-fee basis. help celebrate 100 years of bilateral relations between Japan and Colombia and features traditional foods and performances. 03-3498-0231 Take in a variety of experimental films and images today and tomorrow at the Experimental Film and Video Competition, featuring Japanese and international artists. Yokohama Art Museum, ¥1,000–¥4,500, www.imageforum.co.jp/festival. SUN 20 JULY

Enjoy spending this holiday afternoon at an acrobatic performance by Circus Marui at the Tokyo Metropolitan Children’s Hall in today at 2pm (doors open at 1:30pm). Tickets are ¥1,800 in advance and ¥2,000 on the day. Tel. 03-3409-0561 for information. Free, anonymous telephone counseling The 17th Tokyo International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival closes tonight with the 9 a.m.-11 p.m. 7 Days a Week Japanese premiere screening of Out at the Wedding. There are over 20 films exploring gay 365 Days a Year and lesbian culture around the world. Tickets are ¥1,200 advance, ¥1,500 at the door; show- ings run from July 17–21 at the Spiral Hall in Aoyama. http://tokyo-lgff.org/2008/e

03-5774-0992 MON 21 JULY ACCJ members and their guests are invited to Shareholder Activism: Second Season Roundup, TELL Volunteer Telephone Counselor a discussion of the work done by foreign shareholder activists (lead by Steel Partners) through 2008. Noon–2pm, http://preview.tinyurl.com/6dfe99. Training Program starts September 13. Go to www.telljp.com to apply. TUE 22 JULY

FCCJ members and guests are invited to join Yasuchika Hasegawa, Japan Association of Corporate Executives Vice Chairman and President, Takeda Pharmaceutical Company Limited for a profesional luncheon this afternoon from noon–1:30pm. ¥1,260–¥3,570 depending on member/guest and luncheon option. RSVP by phoning 03-3211-3161 or online at www.fccj.or.jp. WED 23 JULY

ACCJ members and their guests are invited to enjoy warm company accented with Pisco INTERNATIONAL TENNIS SCHOOL cocktails, delicious Peruvian food, and a traditional Peruvian performance at Nomu-cation: Nomu-ni Pisco at the Embassy of Peru from 6:30–8:30pm. The event will help celebrate Peru’s national day on July 28 while allowing guests to mingle and network. Attendees will be greeted by Ambassador Hugo Palma. http://preview.tinyurl.com/6mdomb. KITS offers professional, Enjoy a production of Snow White by the Kiev Ballet today at 1pm at Bunka english tennis instruction Center. Also August 9 at 1 and 4:30pm. ¥4,500–¥6,000. Tel. 03-3943-9999 for tickets. THU 24 JULY for all levels, taught by The Tokyo Comedy Store presents the TCS Crocodile Show, which is “Like Tokyo, Only certified United States Funnier!” The show features Tokyo’s best stand-up and improvised comedy! 8–10:30pm at the Professional Tennis Crocodile in Shibuya. ¥2,000, full drink and food menu. Please see the homepage for map and details: www.tokyocomedy.com and reserve seats at: [email protected]. Association coaches ACCJ members and their guests are invited to the Architecture, Construction & Real Estate Committee Working Meeting from noon–2pm today. http://preview.tinyurl.com/6rthxj. Summer Camp sign-ups NOW! FRI 25 JULY

Colombian National Day TEL / FAX 03-3325-0924 EMAIL [email protected] his July 20, help Colombians celebrate their Na- Coast. Ttional Day at a festival taking place in Hibiya I n a d d i t i o n , www.tennisintokyo.com Park from 11am–5pm. The festival also celebrates local Japanese and www.krissmantennis.com 100 years of bilateral relations between Colombia Colombian artists, and Japan and therefore the event is sure to be extra including a salsa cou- special! ple (Ritmo de Cali) Thirteen restaurants will be offering food from and musician Yumi across Latin America for sale, including traditional Kusakabe will be in and authentic arepa, ajiaco, and empanadas. Besides the attendance, joined by DJ Fabián Torres, who will be food, enjoy traditional handicrafts and performances. spinning the newest in Colombian rhythms and beats. Several of the groups coming to perform at the fes- At the conclusion of the day’s performances, Orquesta tival are making specific trips to Japan for the first time. Conquistando will take to the stage to perform salsa, They include salsa group Nueva Diamensión, made up merinque, and vallenato dance numbers, inviting the of youth dancers, which has won awards worldwide. entire audience to get up and dance the afternoon Also performing will be Grupo Bahía, which is known away. for playing traditional music from Colombia’s Pacific This day-long event is sure to entice the whole  | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue Would you like your community event listed in this calendar? If so, please email [email protected] one month before the event is due to take place.

Spend the afternoon at the International Summer Solstice Beer Festival at the Gotemba Kogen Resort from noon–3pm. This event features food and lots of great beers for just ¥3,500. RSVP to Bennet at [email protected] or visit www.gotembakogenresort.jp for more information.

Learn about wines made in surprising locations around the world (such as Canada and Israel) at the Saturday Wine School event co-organized by Orca Wines and Fujimamas. 4–6pm, Fujimamas, ¥3,000, RSVP: [email protected]. SAT 26 JULY

Hula down to Yokohama for the yearly Hawai’i Festival (July 25–27), from 10am daily at the Yokohama Osanbashi Pier. This free event features music, entertainment, food, and more, such as a Mackalani Slack Key Guitar Workshop and hula master George Naope. Visit www.hawaiifes.com (in Japanese) for more info. SUN 27 JULY

Take the kids to the ballgame tonight as you watch the Chiba Lotte Marines play the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles today and tomorrow at 6:30pm at the Chiba Lotte Marine Stadium in Chiba. Tel. 0570-08-0026 for info and tickets, or visit www.marines. co.jp (in Japanese). Our Plans • Regular Plus 12,600yen/month (Available at all Tokyo branches) • Daytime Plus 9,450yen/month MON 28 JULY (Available at all Tokyo branches) Two lawyers involved in the recent triangular merger of Nikko Cordial and Citigroup will • Regular Towel 12,600yen/month speak about the events and key features of this merger at an event entitled: Largest-Ever (Available only at Roppongi branch. Towel set incl.) Buyout By a Foreign Company—A Legal Perspective, today from noon–2pm. The event is • Daytime Towel 9,450yen/month open to ACCJ members and their guests. http://preview.tinyurl.com/6p5n52 (Available only at Roppongi branch. Towel set incl.) • Registration Fee 3,150yen TUE 29 JULY Members of the CCCJ are invited to What is CSR from CEO perspectives? presented by the Our Facilities Caux Round Table at the Imperial Hotel today from 3–7pm. Four panelists will discuss what corporate social responsibility (CSR) is and what it means to CEOs. There will be • Gym • 2 Studios • Swimming Pool time for questions and answers after the panelist’s discussions. For more information • Sauna/Jacuzzi • Germanium Bath and to register: http://preview.tinyurl.com/5kb3p4. • Tanning Bed • Massage Room • Nail Care Personal Trainers available! WED 30 JULY

Bring your best team down to the Paddy Foley’s pub quiz tonight from 7:30pm. Questions Tokyo Midtown range from pop culture to sports and geography and are sure to please the most intrepid Roppongi Sta. pub quiz contestant. Entrance is ¥500 per person, teams may be up to six people each, and (Oedo Line) there are plenty of great prizes to be won. www.paddyfoleystokyo.com Mizuho Bank Roppongi Dori (Hibiya Line) Bayern Munich come through Japan and play the Urawa Reds tonight at Saitama Super Roppongi Sta. Arena 2002, 7:30pm, for tickets tel. 05-7002-9111. Aoyama Book Almond THU 31 JULY Police Dept. Center Take your child to Windsor Park Golf and Country Club and while there, take advan- tage of special junior green fees on weekdays throughout August (except Obon, August 13–15). ¥3,000 includes a curry and rice lunch for your junior golfer. www.wpgcc.com. Please call 0296-88-2221 in advance to book your tee time and confirm availability. B1 Piramide Bldg., 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku Head to the Grand Hyatt, for a cocktail, and while you are there, pick up the newest issue Tel: 03-5474-3531 / www.tipness.co.jp of Weekender, due out today. FRI 1 AUG

17th Tokyo International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival

he 17th Tokyo International Lesbian and Gay Film notoriety when the Toronto Maple Leafs NHL team TFestival is taking place at the Aoyama Spiral Hall endorsed the film and allowed their name, logo, and from July 17–21 and features over twenty films explor- team to be used in the movie, which tells the story of ing life as a homosexual around the world. a former Leafs hockey player, his partner, and the 11- Many of the films are having their Japanese or year-old boy they unexpectedly begin to parent. Asian premieres at the festival, including the festival’s Mixed in with the humorous films are more serious closing movie, Out at the Wedding, playing in Japan for pieces exploring homosexual life in countries where the first time. Out at the Wedding is an entertaining tale being gay is not only not accepted, but sometimes of mistaken identity as the main character, hiding her even dangerous. For instance, the filmakers of A Jihad bi-racial boyfriend from her very conservative family, for Love’s took six years, and reportedly risked their suffers from having some comments about her mis- lives, to make a documentary about Muslims from TIPNESS online commercial: construed until, before she knows it her family begins Egypt, Morocco, and South Africa who are all gay and http://jc4.rfx.jp/jump.php?url_id=3537 to believe she is gay. This becomes a role she plays up steadfastly refuse to give up their faith. in a series of hilarious events. For more information about the films as well Also featured at the festival is Breakfast With Scot, as tickets (¥1,200–¥1,500), visit http://tokyo-lgff. www.tipness.co.jp here for its Asian premiere. This movie gained some org/2008/e. Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14  FEATURE

Tokyo Jet-Setting The allure of a ticket to Tokyo, by Owen Schaefer

t’s four o’clock on a surprisingly clear afternoon, and English sailor William Adams would II am standing at the windows of the 52nd-floor ob- assist in opening Japan for trade with servation deck of Mori Tower in Roppongi Hills looking the East India Trading Company and out at the city. There are 50 or 60 people here, many company men who sailed to meet with of them foreign and most of them tourists; all of them Adams in his unheard-of position as vying for a good photo. And as they look out across the advisor to the Tokugawa shogun sent back 2,000 square kilometers of urban sprawl that is collec- descriptions of Edo. It was no longer the tively called Tokyo, I can’t help but feel that each one quiet fishing village it had been a hundred is looking at a slightly different city. years earlier, but a burgeoning metropolis Even from 52-stories up, Tokyo remains a mix of with wide, clean streets, buildings with the functional and the ambitious, the playful and the gilded tile roofs, and a well-dressed aristoc- ostentatious, with a smattering of the historical. The racy. Tokyo was being born. v i s i t o r s But there here on Western travelers have made is nothing the view- like a mystery ing plat- their way to Japan’s shores in the to create a last- form look ing intrigue. out over name of trade, religious zealotry, When Japan this urban f a m o u s l y landscape finance, and cultural study. slammed its and see a doors on city that is the world in based on a hodgepodge of history, industry, finance, 1639, its exotic image had the next 200 years and pop-culture. It is the high-tech city of bullet trains to take root in Western imaginations. and robotics; it is the fashion capital of Asia; it is the hub of a new-found pop-culture explosion that has The Burning of the Past spread Japan’s animation and geek-chic around the It is the traditional and often conservative world; and, yes, it is still a city of kimonos, street festi- cultural underpinnings that one finds in vals, and Shinto shrines. modern-day Tokyo that seem to inevitably Tokyo isn’t part of the backpacker route, and for lead to the age-old travel-guide cliché of good reason. Sky-high travel costs, a lack of budget “contradictory Japan.” It is the impe- accommodation, and, most of all, sheer distance and tus behind the oft-snapped photo of a isolation have kept it firmly the domain of working young woman in her Coming-of-Age Day expatriates and the jet-set. It is the most eastern of the kimono chatting on her cellphone—a Far East cities and not a spot to be hit on the way to shot taken by so many separate photog- anywhere else; it is, and always has been, a destination raphers that it has become almost iconic unto itself. in its sheer ubiquity. But these contradictions are largely The More Things Change foisted upon Tokyo from the outside. But what draws west to east? It’s a story that has Tokyo, from its inception, was built to British Airways changed over the years and new layers are constantly be a city for the future. After all, Tokyoites know better pamphlets from the being added. Western travelers have made their way to than anyone that concrete connections to history can sixties. Japan’s shores in the name of trade, religious zealotry, be fleeting and impermanent. The 1923 Kanto earth- finance, and cultural study. Adventure has certainly quake flattened or burned most of the city, leaving lit- always played a part, but for the earliest Western visi- tle of historical value untouched. Then, a little over 20 tors to make the long and dangerous journey, it took years later, the city would once again be devastated— more impetus than simply a vague curiosity or a crav- this time by the fire-bombings of World War II. The ing for fresh sushi. Tokyo of 1945 was a wreck. Its past, its history, had lit- Early accounts of Tokyo and the Japanese are erally burned away. It was contrite, financially drained, filled with exoticism and yet ring somehow familiar. and not even remotely a place for tourists. Japan’s few When Marco Polo, (though he never managed to visitors at the time were military or financial. Hans reach Japan) heard tales in China of a country that Brinckmann, the author of The Magatama Doodle, was was strong, isolated, and dependent upon no one. And in Tokyo in 1950, transferred from Holland to play the when Portuguese adventurer Fernão Mendes Pinto was role of what he calls the “reluctant banker.” washed into Japanese waters by a storm in 1544, he “During the 1950s there was no tourism, either and his men painted the picture of a country not only inward or outward,” he told me. “Foreign tourists rich in material wealth, but in culture and civility. were not attracted to a country struggling to recover Speaking of his own culture, he wrote, “apart from our from the war.” Even after five years of rebuilding, religion, we are greatly inferior to them,”—a sentiment Brinckmann’s book describes roads still pockmarked that would later be echoed by the missionary Francis with bomb craters and potholes. Tokyo was still a long Xavier, whose well-intended, if left-handed, compli- way from being a booming economic capital. ment called the Japanese “the best who have yet been discovered.” Let the Games Begin What was most interesting to those early visitors In 1964, Tokyo became the first non-Western city to was not Japan’s antiquity, but its highly developed ever win an Olympic bid. Instantly, it had become a society, codes of honor, public manners, and its desirable place to go. wealthy and beautiful cities. In the early 1600s, the Three billion dollars were spent over the next five

8 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue define the genre of cyberpunk but also put the word “cyberspace” into popular usage—he set much of the action in Japan despite the fact that he had never set foot in the country. This didn’t seem to matter, because 42$8.41 Gibson had tapped into something that was already becoming apparent: Japan’s reputation as an electron- ics superpower. Tokyo was becoming the poster city for a high-tech future. photo courtesy of British Airways. Tokyo embraces electronics in a way that few other /.2(3(.- cities can. , the electronics-and-otaku-lifestyle FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN Mecca, was already a market for radio and wireless parts as far back as the 1950s. As companies like Sony, BUY A NEW VOLVO ON VERY Toshiba, Sharp, Pioneer, Mitsubishi, and Nintendo SPECIAL TERMS. arrived, along with a glut of successful automobile makers, the wealth grew until no one could see the end In the sixties, coming to Tokyo was no easy jet. of it. Exports of electronics and cars were flying out to other countries and the Japanese were proud of their years to host the games and the results work. For Japan, robotics and electronics represented were a payoff that has been cashing in ever everything good. And largely, they still do. since. Infrastructure improved and high- When the bubble inevitably burst, there was a ways were built. tightening of belts and much dejection, but the show Additionally, the Olympics gave Japan went on. The neon lights were still lit in Shinjuku, an opportunity to showcase its culture, and even more and larger television screens went up kindling an interest in the world’s tour- at Shibuya crossing. According to one interview with ists who came for the kimonos and Roland Kelts, author of Japanamerica: How Japanese paper umbrellas. At the time, it had rela- Pop Culture Invaded the U.S., there was an upside to the tively little else to offer—gone were the economic slump, which Kelts says was able to “free up gilded rooftops and wide, tree-lined streets. youthful Japanese creativity that had prior to those The average Tokyoite was still living a frugal years been sort of siphoned off by corporations.” existence and according to Brinckmann, As a result, the contemporary financial landscape Tokyo in the 1960s was “a rather ugly, unin- now includes dozens of exports that are no longer VOLVO XC90 teresting city and the air was horribly pol- quite as tangible, but every bit as in demand. Hayao luted, like Shanghai or Beijing today.” Miyazake’s Spirited Away saw mainstream approval LOCAL DELIVERY But while the Olympic focus was on tradi- after taking an Academy Award in 2003 and revealed • Full English Service tion, already a hint of the future was rocketing aspects of Japan that few in the west had seen. Comics • + English NAVI + Highway pass (ETC) down the tracks at an unheard-of 210 kilo- and animation are in high demand. And Hello Kitty, meters an hour. The crown-jewel of Japanese whether for kitsch, irony, or for sheer love of the cute, • Insurance handling engineering had been installed: the bullet train is globally recognizable. • Convenient dealer location between Tokyo and Osaka. During the bubble period, a handful of fashion • Attractive low interest fi nancing Foreign airlines, too, were responding with designers, such as Issey Miyake, Kenzo, and Hanae regular flights. British Airways, which had been Mori made a major impact on Western runways, but http://www.volvocars.co.jp/ running flights to Tokyo since November of the economic decline resulted in an even greater fame 1948, reported a particular spike in numbers as for Tokyo’s street fashions. ’s disenfranchised US/UK DELIVERY tourists flocked to the Olympiad. A true tourist and loitering “lolitas” become fashion icons and maga- Order 3-4 months before repatriation market had opened for Tokyo and air travel was zines such as FRUiTS, established by Shoichi Aoki in and enjoy benefits: making it possible. 1997, have a following not only on the street, but all British Airways • Generous savings on MSRP pamphlets from the over the world. • Custom ordered Volvo in home sixties. Passengers were encouraged to Reinvention specifi cation pack cocktail dresses, corsets, and As Tokyo gears up its bid for the 2016 • All shipping and insurance included Olympics, it’s tempting to wonder if history • Car waiting for you when you return tuxedos, along with several changes will, or even needs to, repeat itself. Unlike of shoes, in order to fly and arrive in Hong Kong’s blatant move to brand itself • Attractive fi nancing with the slogan ‘Asia’s World City,’ http://vcic.volvocars.com/ proper style—a sign of the kind of Tokyo has only followed its own inertia, accepting and even embrac- people making the journey. ing its own global image. With flight prices rising, Japan Nonetheless, you still had to be a dedicated holi- may once again begin to feel its distance and daymaker to reach Japan: flights from Britain in 1964 isolation. But there is more today than ever took a gruelling four days and even that was largely to bring people to this city among cities. If all dependent on good weather. Passengers were encour- goes well for 2016, tourists will most certainly aged to pack cocktail dresses, corsets, and tuxedos, come for the games, but Japan is no longer along with several changes of shoes, in order to fly a land shrouded in mystery. The travelers and arrive in proper style—a sign of the kind of people will also come for its reputation of safety making the journey. And one 1960s brochure from the and accessibility; they will come to explore British Overseas Airways Corporation (later to become a culture that is not mired in history, but British Airways) features an image of a flight attendant comfortable in its present. And many will offering a passenger a razor—a sign of the times. come for its familiarity as much as its differ- ences. Another shot at the Olympics games Exporting the Present for Tokyo may be an opportunity to finally When science-fiction author William Gibson wrote say, “In 1964, we told you what we were. VOLVO S80 Neuromancer in 1984—a novel that would not only Today, we will show you what we are.” UNBEATABLE FACTORY PRICES CALL STEVEN WANCHAP: (03) 3585-2627 EMAIL: [email protected] 5.+5." 12ATL=P2 +$2 5.+5." 12#(/+., 32 +$2 LNEREHACA@PKOANRAUKQ

Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 9 MOVIE REVIEWS BY WILLIAM CASPER Hot Fuzz

en reasons to go and see Hot Fuzz: 6. David Threlfall T1. The creators of the excellent Shaun of the Dead, (Frank from TV’s Edgar Wright (writer and director) and Simon Pegg Shameless) has a lovely (writer and star), deserve our fullest support. little cameo. 2. The ever-wonderful Billie Whitelaw is in it. 7. It is very funny. 3. As well as Billie Whitelaw, Hot Fuzz features a 8. Simon Pegg and Nick veritable bus load of veteran Brit actors and comedians Frost are fast becoming including Jim Broadbent, Paddy Considine, Timothy the thinking person’s Satirical British humor. Dalton, Bill Nighy, Edward Woodward, Bill Bailey, Laurel and Hardy. Olivia Colman, Kenneth Cranham, Martin Freeman, 9. Cate Blanchett’s uncredited cameo. Stephen Merchant, and Steve Coogan. 10. It is Tokyo. It is July. The theater will be air-con- 4. The recreation of a Point Break moment is an all- ditioned. time, top comedy moment. Plot? An over-achieving super cop is sent by jeal- 5. Its view of English village life brilliantly combines ous colleagues to police the safest village in the UK. affectionate homage with scathing satire. Mayhem ensues.

Kung Fu Panda

reamWorks latest animated classic in the mak- save the village. At the Ding is so disarming and enjoyable it almost de- school, Po meets initial fies criticism. Perhaps it is the beautiful digital anima- resistance from the star tion—Kung Fu Panda (KFP) is an absolute joy to look pupils who resent his at—or perhaps it is the assembled A-list cast led ably presence. These pupils, by the un-dislikable Jack Black. Whatever it is, KFP is Tigress (Angeline Jolie), the perfect summer holiday fare superbly combining Crane (David Cross), a fast-action with sharp comedy; it will keep the whole Mantis (Seth Rogen), Watch out, there’s a panda about. family engaged for all of its breezy 92 minutes. Viper (Lucy Liu), and Monkey (Jackie Chan) make life The plot has our titular hero, giant panda, Po (Jack difficult for the over weight newcomer until Po shows Black), secretly wishing to be a kung fu master rather them his true worth. The gang is trained by Shifu, a than working in his dad’s noodle shop. (Incidentally tiny red panda and old master, brilliantly voiced by Po’s Dad is a goose—I guess it’s a bit much to ask Dustin Hoffman. When the Snow Leopard finally for realism from an animated movie about a kung arrives, Po comes in to his own at last. fu panda) The village where Po and his Dad live is As well as its beautiful animation, terrific pace, and under threat from the upcoming return of the evil star-packed cast, KFP strikes exactly the right tone, Snow Leopard (Ian McShane fresh from his turn as never sacrificing the reality of its world for a quick an evil animated polar bear in the Golden Compass). joke, and being completely sincere with its message of Po is sent to the nearby Kung Fu School to prepare to self improvement as a means to better help others.

Dr. Suess’ Horton Hears a Who

here is something so wonderful about Theodor Seuss ing Whoville, Horton TGeisel (Dr. Suess) and the lovely books he created (in causes earthquakes, part as an aid to child literacy) that it is almost inevitable an early winter, and that any contact with the more ruthless, less altruistic general mayhem. The world of Hollywood is bound to tarnish the stories. Hor- conflict is resolved in a ton Hears a Who (HHAW) fairs better than the awful How glow of tolerance and The Grinch Stole Christmas or the ill conceived Mike Mey- cries for understanding er’s vehicle The Cat in the Hat and goes someway towards The crazy world of Dr. Suess. but not until Whoville capturing the magic of the book. has faced oblivion on countless occasions. HHAW is The story has Horton (Jim Carrey), an elephant, liv- visually superb and the filmmakers (also responsible ing in the jungle of Nool hearing a voice from a speck for Ice Age) have created a world and a spectacle wor- of dust that turns out to be the world of Whoville. In thy of Dr. Suess’ imaginative mastery. an effort to protect Whoville, Horton decides to put Among the actors whose vocal cords get a work out the speck on the top of Mount Nool. The other ani- are the timeless Carol Burnett, Will Arnett, and Dan mals in the jungle think Horton is insane and pressure Fogler. For me the only real problem the film has is starts to build to stop him talking to the speck, as he its star. Jim Carrey’s usual OTT antics irritatingly tran- is a bad influence on younger animals. Meanwhile, scend the animation format (the animators have given inside Whoville the mayor (Steve Carell) is having Horton Carrey’s toothy grin, too) but he is miscast as the problems keeping his job, especially as, in mov- thoughtful elephant. WEEKENDER’S FAVORITE MOVIE THEATERS

ROPPONGI: Roppongi Hills Cinema. Roppongi 6-10-2, Minato- SHINJUKU: Shinjuku Milano Za, Kabuki-cho 1-29-1, Tokyu Milano ku. 03-5775-6090. In the Roppongi Hills Keyakizaka Complex, fac- Bldg. 03-3202-1189. JR Shinjuku station East Exit, number B13. ing the Mori Tower, Hibiya Line Roppongi Station. Showing: Speed Walk towards Nishi-Shinjuku station; the theater faces this station. Racer, In the Valley of Elah, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Showing: Speed Racer, The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian Crystal Skull, August Rush, The Chronicles of Narnia; Prince Caspian, Made of Honor. www.tohotheater.jp. : Cinema Mediage. Daiba 1-7-1, Minato-ku. 03-5531- SHIBUYA: Shibuto Cine Tower, Dogenzaka 2-6-17, Shibuya. 03- 7878. Across from Tokyo Teleport Station, just behind the Fuji TV 5489-4210. From JR , take the Hachiko exit to the building. From the Yurikamome line’s Daiba station, cross the street. large intersection (to Dogenzaka). Go up the road, and it will be The cinema is next to Aqua City Odaiba. Showing: Speed Racer, on your left (across from Shibuya 109). Showing: Indiana Jones Climber’s High, In The Valley of Elah, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, August Rush. http://gmap. of the Crystal Skull, August Rush, 21, The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince jp/shop-1533.html. Caspian www.cinema-mediage.com. For more reviews please visit our website at www.weekenderjapan.com

10 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue MOVIE PLUS WITH BILL HERSEY

ADVANCE YOUR CAREER FINANCE | COMPLIANCE | LEGAL www.legalfutures.com

Harrison Ford, George Lucas, and the cast of Indiana Jones flew in for the Tokyo premiere and press conference. eedless to say, our buddies over at Paramount see.” Harrision commented, “You’ve always been NPictures Japan have been super busy over the past great in supporting the films here, but for us right few months. Their many-faceted promotion for the now it’s one step at a time.” When asked about Indie, film Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Temple Skull Harrison said, “I really like his character, the humor, meant lots of overseas travel, lots of meetings with en- courage, tenacity, and willingness to really work hard tertainment tycoons George Lucas and Stephen Spiel- to get things done.” berg, and working long into the early hours to plan When asked about heros, Harrison likes ordinary and carry out the Tokyo press conference, the Japan people who do extraordinary things. Lucas got a bit premiere, endless media events, plus so much more. political saying; “There’s a hero in the making for Lucas’ executive producers Kathleen Kennedy and us—lots of hopes and dreams with Obama.” Karen Frank Marshall and, of course, Harrison Ford, flew in agreed saying, “I feel Barack Obama will help lift us for most of the major events. Spielberg had to be in out of many difficulties.” the States for his daughter’s graduation so couldn’t Kudos to Paramount for using the multi-lingual be here but he did send a nice message. The press hand translation sets. Everyone was really able to conference at the ballroom in the Grand Hyatt was as understand and keep up with everything. YOUR CAREER PARTNERS expected, filled to capacity. The premiere was held at Yoyogi Koen, in and In answering one of the reporter’s questions about around the huge building architect Kenzo Tange www.waysimmons.com why it took so long (about 20 years), Harrison said: designed for the Olympics in 1966. For the dynamic “We know it was a long time coming, but the writers event (6,000 people attended) Paramount had recre- came up with a good script, and I knew this was the ated huge temples and pillars, etc. that were exact rep- right time.” Kathleen added, “We just gave the proj- licas of those in the film. Talk about exciting. Inside ect time and it worked out.” Frank remarked, “It was the hall there was a colorful laser show, and even an a combination of key ingredients and we’re all very ‘Indie’ flying above the crowd and doing some of his happy with the results.” death-defying stunts. Like they say, there’s no busi- When another reporter asked “How about an ness like show business. Indiana Jones in Japan movie?,” George laughed and Congratulations to all who worked so hard to said “I love this country but have no plans now. We’ll make it the super evening it was.

` lost one of my college days’ loves-of-my life a few Iweeks ago when the legendary dancer-actress Cyd Charisse passed away. Cyd with the beautiful face and long, long, legs had to be one of the most beautiful women and best dancers to ever glorify Hollywood. Born in Texas, she started studying ballet when she was a young girl. She danced her way through dozens of films and her partners included legendary hoofers Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly. I’ll never forget her per- formance of Limehouse Blues in Singing in the Rain. Thanks to my dear brother, Chris, (God bless his soul) I got to meet Cyd at a Christmas party at the Beverly Hills home of top choreographer Tony Charmoli. Other guests there included Carol Channing (Hello Dolly), Betty White (Golden Girls), and Ann Miller (On the Town, Kiss Me Kate). What a party that was…and what a star Cyd was.

NB. Schedules are subject to change so please make sure to check the website to avoid disappointment. Out on DVD! By William Casper SHINAGAWA: Shinagawa Prince Cinema. 4-10-30, Mi- The Namesake—Mira Nair’s tender examination of immigrant life nato-ku. 03-5421-1113. Across the street from Shinagawa station, in in modern day America. Based on Jhumpa Lahiri’s fine novel. the Shinagawa Prince Hotel. Showing: Speed Racer, In The Valley of Elah, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull, August Rush, Sweeny Todd—Johnny Depp and Helena Bonham Carter have 21, 27 Dresses, The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian, The Bucket List. lots of bloody fun in Tim Burton’s gruesome film adaptation www.princehotels.co.jp/shinagawa/cinema/index.html. of the successful musical.

YOKOHAMA: Toho Cinemas Lalaport. 4035-1 Ikebe-cho, Ysuzuki-ku, Earth—Beguiling look at life on the planet. Stunning. Yokohama. 045-929-1040. JR Yokohama Line, Kamoii station. Take the North Exit; theater is on the first floor of the Lalaport Complex. Show- Alpha Dog—Nick Cassavetes (John’s lad) does his best with ing: In The Valley of Elah, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crys- the true story of drug dealer Jesse James Hollywood, the tal Skull, August Rush, Juno, The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian. youngest man to make the FBI’s most wanted list. http://yokohama.lalaport.jp. The Fountain—Darren Aronofsky’s noble but muddled, three- pronged fantasy love story, spanning 1000 years starring Ra- For more reviews please visit our website at www.weekenderjapan.com chel Weiss and Hugh Jackman.

Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 11 FINE DINING BY ROBERT FORREST

Trattoria Il Boccalone Possibly the best Italian in Tokyo?

esting my luck, I booked Ta table here soon after co- diner and I started co-dining. Luckily, we still were when the date arrived: this place is fantastic. Tucked away in Ebisu, away from the main street that attracts most diners on Friday evenings, Il Boccalone has built up a good reputation hosting for- eign businessmen looking for a taste of home and Japanese couples appreciating the ri- sotto this place is renowned for. We are a bit of both, so let me usher you through the curtains, out of Tokyo, and into Italy. Cynicism first, I’m afraid. As soon as we stepped in, my At Il Boccalone, chose to take in the mural or to watch the kitchen’s ongoings. eyes scanned for a table close to a door, a draught, or worse the drains. Speaking in so my experience is second-hand, but the earthen stuttered Japanese to reserve on the phone, I always chunks of meat in its dark gravy dully reminded of the fear The Gaijin Table. I began to think the same had scrape of fork across the inside of ribbed tins. This is happened here as we were shown to a lone table not a criticism. Continuing its canine appearance, the squeezed next to the bar and almost inside the kitch- taste drags your mind through the undergrowth of a en—but co-diner was thrilled, purring her delight at forest and rubs sodden bark into your nose. It is vivid being able to watch the tenderising, the seasoning, the and wonderful. So I took some of co-diner’s as well. hacking of ribs into chops, and the washing of salads. Which I quickly realized was a mistake, when She had a good point and so did the Maitre D’ when a ceramic oval dodged a table for four and landed he recommended the Piemonte red. Elegant, non-tan- squarely in our nest of glasses, bottles, plates, crumbs, nic, and with a cloud of scorned grapes to the nose, and oils. Slice, after slice, after slice of thick red petals each sip silenced conversation. with greying fringes illustrated the beef we had seen Beguiled by his Italian accent we also took him up on the menu. Pupils fired as lips flickered. She was on his other recommendations for the pasta: yolky impressed. And then the salad! This was unforget- triangles with rosemary tinted boar and mixed durum table. Sautéed spinach is one thing, but the rocket barrels cuddled with homemade sausage. But before we also ordered should be gilded and framed. Nubile these arrived we had salada botargo—myriad fish eggs leaves showered in lemon and fine salt scalded our pressed and finely sliced, mixed with rocket (the toma- gums, slicing through the languid fat of the beef. But toes, removed by she), and warm octopus with boiled of course, this topped it all. How can it not when the potatoes. So unpretentious, and like the best Italian creatures in question derived from Japan’s mountains? cooking, sim- Muscles strengthened on ply allowed Slice, after slice, after slice of hill sides and inclines, each ingredi- ruddy and supple on our ent to confi- plate, melted by gushing dently unfurl thick red petals with greying fat. And then my glut- its flavor. The tonous penalty struck, as octopus was fringes illustrated the beef residual pasta halted prog- memorable as ress. My half-pound could much for the we had seen on the menu. not be finished. But it mat- taste as for the ters not as wine turned to layering of textures, tongue slipping over membrane as coffee and other diners seeped into the night, so a teeth squeezed into butter-soft flesh, itself firmly cen- shallow goblet arrived containing four balls of butter, tered. We loved it, and the humble potato only under- cream, and cocoa thickly hugging a walnut centre. It lined the exquisite dampness and hushed the fanfare I was even better than that sounds. feel a more arrogant kitchen may have added. Il Boccalone has been described by some as the More wine pressed a finger to our smiles and then best Italian in Tokyo, and it’s certainly the best I have the pasta arrived. They had kindly presented two been to whilst here. It doesn’t quite touch Oscar’s, plates, each with a half-share of our orders. We tried my favourite place in Milan, but with the passion, the sausage first. My God—how can I explain the care, and authenticity that’s so evident here, you nuggets of wheat expanding their aboriginal fields, or simply cannot go wrong with whatever you order. sausage that crumbles like fallen trulli, allowing drafts I’m not going to mention the price as no doubt co- of flavor to air the palette? I don’t know, and I cringe diner will be reading/removing her name; suffice to now to describe the divine boar as dog-food from say this one is best saved for special occasions. And Heaven. I have only ever fed dog-food to my brother, it really was.

Best table: Being next to the kitchen went down the website, or better give the address to a cab. It rather well, just avoid being next to the front door if isn’t far, but tricky to explain. Contact: Call 03- possible. Prices: A meal for two will total between 3449-1430 or see www.ilboccalone.com for reserva- ¥20,000–¥30,000 Location: Ebisu. Use the map on tions and the map.

12 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue DINING

Ekki Bar and Grill A Tokyo kind of brunch, by Marie Teather

runch, as of late, has become somewhat of the en Bvogue meal to be seen at in Tokyo. Perhaps it was the foreign community that introduced the concept of sit- Suji’s Restaurant & Bar ting down with family or friends on weekend afternoons, Offering All Your and more importantly, that one should stay sat down for For ladies who brunch. long enough to unwind, to catch up, and to eat comfort Favorites from Home food; lots of it. Ever-fashionable Japanese diners followed It arrived soon after and again the presentation with OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK suit and, never wanting to miss out on an eating trend, three small square plates resting on a circular tray, was brunch menus have been popping up on the most sophis- representative of the artistic title this meal had been MON–FRI 11AM TO 11PM ticated of hotel and restaurant tables all over the city. named after. In one dish was the salmon and scrambled SAT & SUN 9AM TO 11PM Of course it didn’t take long before Japanese res- eggs—a firm favorite on any breakfast menu and a taurants wanted to show us their interpretation on a favorite of mine too, although I prefer mine not to be HOLIDAYS 10AM TO 10PM brunch, and at Ekki Bar and Grill in the Four Seasons mixed with citrus honey and pommery mustard. The Hotel, you’ll find just that. Fittingly, this restaurant is in other three dishes revealed a mushroom and herb grilled the Marunouchi district, an area renown for it’s mish- brioche, the crispy waffles with mint mascarpone and Brunch mash of traditional Japanese culture and architecture maple syrup, which got the thumbs up all round, and blending into the new and artistic. Situated on the an almost forgettable salad. In the center piece of the B seventh floor of the hotel the interior is surprisingly inti- decorative creation sat a ham and roasted pepper wrap mate. The hotel itself boasts just 57 rooms and the feel- sandwich which, healthy though it was, troubled me as ing throughout is more boutique hotel than expected. to when I should actually stop my grazing between the As often with brunches, the choice can be somewhat tasters of a brunch that was happening elsewhere, and overwhelming and so the Ekki Champagne Brunch has pick this up to munch. been neatly divided into three interestingly titled courses; All too quickly, the main course was over and out the Abstract, the Contemporary, and the Modern. There came the deserts. Again, four little dishes, one circular Happy Hour Special are two options of free flowing champagne to accom- tray; it was pretty, it was artistic; would it be rude of me All drinks half price! pany your meal; Krug or Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label. to admit that I was still hungry? Monday thru Friday To start, we were brought a selection of croissants Looking around the room, the Ekki Bar and Grill 5PM to 7PM and sweet pastries—the type over which you could imag- was providing a certain brunch experience to please the ine Japanese ladies cooing in delight. Indeed with the mostly Japanese clientele. On one table sat three women Lunch presentation and intricate little fruits displayed on the who had been there before we had arrived and showed tops, it was almost a shame to have to destroy their pret- little sign of moving soon. For them, the champagne was L tiness, but still, this was brunch and eating was priority. flowing, laughter and chatting was animated, and eating I had chosen the ‘Contemporary’ set and for this was light and second to the company they were sharing. I was next presented with the roasted pumpkin soup And, as only a Saturday afternoon brunch can permit, with garlic cream and grilled shrimp. Despite initial there was no need to go anywhere else in a hurry. hesitations about soup not really seeming fit for a meal that is supposed to be a combination of a breakfast and For more information Ekki Bar and Grill or the Four lunch, any criticisms were soon forgotten. This really is Daily Drink Specials Season hotel call 03-5222-7222 or see the website at a great soup. Still, I was here for the main attraction, and Half price all night! www.fourseasons.com.tokyo/ where was it? Monday - Cocktails/Champagne Tuesday - Weihenstephan, German Wheat Beer The Ultimate Weekender Cocktail Wednesday - Guinness Designed exclusively for Weekender by Garin Dart. Dinner hen the weather starts hotting up this summer and jetting off to cooler destinations is not an option, Wthe only alternative is a a refreshing and nourishing cocktail. This drink, designed for Weekender by Blue D Silver’s Garin Dart, will not only keep you refreshed, but the apple juice and honey will keep your sugar levels steady when you start to lag, and the egg will give you a much need protein boost. Try it now—it’s the coolest drink to be seen with this summer! For more information on Bluesilver call Garin Dart on 03- 5456-5466 or see the website at www.bluesilver.jp.

photo courtesy of www.istock.com/alicat. Tea Time Special ¥1000, Dessert & Coffee/Tea Monday thru Friday, 4PM to 6PM For the cocktail: • 42BELOW manuka honey, 45 mls • Cream, 30 mls • Cloudy apple juice, 25 mls Available for private parties of up to • Passion fruit syrup, 15 mls 150 people. Please inquire. • 1 whole egg, free range • Freshly grated nutmeg to garnish images courtesy of www.istock/MiquelMunill. Combine the 42BELOW manuka honey, apple juice, and syrup in a cocktail shaker, and fill with ice. Add the egg and cream and shake vigorously. (If cracking your eggs freshly for each drink, remember to wash your hands to minimize the ºrisk of contamination.) Strain into a wine glass and garnish For jet-setters and go-getters, the with freshly grated nutmeg. Enjoy! Phone - 03-3505-4490 perfect cocktail for a Tokyo weekend. And in the case of a cocktail catastrophe, come to Blue Silver. URL - http://www.sujis.net images courtesy of www.istock.com/PLAINVIEW.

Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 13 The face of Magellan in the community.

14 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue The face of Magellan in the community.

Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 15 Celebs Love Tokyo!

INTERNATIONAL ondon, New York, Paris, Tokyo. Some cities will always be synonymous with the people Lwho jet-set in for extravagant and fun times. Be it the fashion, the style, the romance, CLINIC the music, or the technology, these cities have, throughout the decades, remained one step ahead of other global cities. Tokyo, of course, remains one of the coolest, most exotic, and eagerly talked about of them all. Celebrities have, throughout the years, jetted into Japan—a stop over in Tokyo is a clear sign that one has ‘made it’. Weekender takes a look at some well-known faces who have flown into Japan with the help of Bill Hersey, a man who has met more than his fair share of the Tokyo-loving rich and famous.

Immunization against influenza, typhoid, tick-borne encephalitis, meningitis and other vaccinations for international travel.

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In 1989, Arnold Schwarzenegger came to Japan to promote the movie Twins.

Twiggy, back in the sixties with her then boyfriend.

Andy Warhol was here in the seventies. In those days the Japanese PR tried to keep celebrities in their hotels in case it was “dangerous” outside, but Andy sneaked out anyway and got up to mischief.

This is Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher, here in 1989 at Elizabeth Taylor looked beautiful at this party in the eighties. the Hilton Hotel. He’d been up all night. 16 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue TRAVEL SPECIAL

Cindy Lauper had so much fun in Tokyo.

Drew Barrymore was here in 1982 to promote ET. She’s been back many times since then. photos courtesy of www.istock.com/rssfhs.

In 1989, Arnold Schwarzenegger came to Nelson Mandela was here 20 years ago to give a lecture at Pele was here to promote soccer in Japan. Japan to promote the movie Twins. the UN University.

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o 3 • 5 9 4 1 • 6 9 9 6 Andy Warhol was here in the seventies. In those days the Japanese PR tried to keep celebrities in their hotels in case Paris Hilton and her sister Nicky were here last year to promote it was “dangerous” outside, but Andy sneaked out anyway and got up to mischief. Samantha Thavasa bags. http://priyajapan.tripod.com

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Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 17 18 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 19 BUSINESS COMMENT

The Business of Language

he Japanese government has announced that it is sible. Along with attending to a number of outdated Tconsidering giving preferential treatment regard- restrictive practices, that means seeing to it that more ing visas to foreign nationals with good Japanese lan- Japanese—especially those in banking, retail, and the guage skills. That is all well and good so long as it does hospitality sectors—have at least a basic ability to not result in the opposite effect: punitive treatment of communicate. And that means addressing the fun- those without. damentals of how English is taught here. Talking to Yes, this is Japan and in an ideal world we would those in the business of trying to make that happen, all be able to converse at something more than the I get the impression that it is one area in which Japan aka chochin level. But hasn’t the government got its is actually in danger of moving backwards rather than priorities slightly awry? The international language of forwards. And in case this seems trivial, consider what business is still English (even if the number of native is happening in Korea and China, where the average speakers of it are now outnumbered by those who use English-language ability is streets ahead of what it is it as a second language). Wouldn’t it make more sense here. If Japan is serious about retaining a competitive if the Japanese took seriously the issue of why the edge internationally, it has to come to terms with the general level of English spoken here is so bad? Instead, business of language once and for all. high-ranking officials claim that learning to speak English is not as important as being able to speak “beautiful Japanese.” Ian de Stains, OBE is the Executive Ever since former Prime Minister Koizumi Director of the British Chamber of announced targets for increased foreign direct invest- Commerce in Japan. He is also a ment in this country as well as an increased effort to Fellow of the Chartered Institute attract more tourists from abroad, Japan watchers have of Arbitrators and Convenor of its cautioned that neither goal will be achieved without Japan Chapter. efforts to make the country genuinely more acces-

INVESTMENT

Is Japan a cool market to invest in?

f you read the media headlines you’ll have heard Japanese steel for the manufacturing process. Iof political stalemate, low interest rate economy, Japan is in an exciting stage of transition as it consumers saving rather than spending, flip-flopping transforms from a predominantly industrialised econ- from deflation to inflation, protectionist trade poli- omy to becoming a service-based one. As the concept Infrastructure PM: cies, and Japan closed to foreign investment—to name of lifetime employment in Japan’s industrial compa- - O ce Premises Relocation just a few. nies becomes a thing of the past, businesses such as But, here’s why Japan is worth considering for outsourcing and temping are booming. At the same - Infrastructure Design investors: Japanese companies are leaner and more time, consumer patterns and tastes are changing. The - Building Restack / Infrastructure Expansion profitable than they have been for years, thanks era of the Japanese department store as supplier of all - Equipment logistics and user relocation to eight years of sometimes painful restructuring. consumers’ needs appears to be over and niche retail- Companies have been getting rid of unprofitable ers and specialist services such as wedding planners are - Data Center IT Design & Implementation business lines, streamlining staff, outsourcing, and reaping the benefits. With the service sector in its early reducing debt. This has meant that Japanese compa- stages of development, the growth potential for these IT Consulting: nies have pushed up their return on capital from zero types of companies is enormous. percent in 2000 to over eight percent today. Japanese companies continue to demonstrate - Project Management for Software Rollout, Of course, more companies need to wake up from their ability to secure global leadership positions in Migrations, System relocations their zombie state and reach out to the western world their respective industries. Japanese auto manufac- - Disaster Recovery / Business Continuity Planning for infusions not only of capital but also talented turers continue to take market share in the US from managers. This combination will kick start their cur- American manufacturers in key market segments - Network Systems Design & Implementation rent low returns to high returns on capital following like vans, pick-up trucks, and sports utility vehicles. - Market Data Support restruscturing. Japanese companies continue to dominate some of the Japanese banks have moved beyond the worst of component parts of flat-panel displays like LCD-TVs their structural problems as industry consolidation and the miniaturisation technology used in mobile IT Managed Services: and rising asset prices have led to a reinflation of their phones and PDA devices. - Managed Services for Desktop Support balance sheets. True, there has been some exposure to So Japan will still be volatile, owing to the lack of the US sub-prime debt position but not nearly as bad political leadership in moving the second largest econ- (Onsite & Remote) as Europe and the US. omy ahead to meet global market challenges. From an - IT Onsite support for servers Asia, including China, has now become Japan’s investment perspective, however you, cannot ignore largest trading partner, eclipsing both the US and this market, so a little dabble could be in order. Europe. After years in the doldrums, Japanese indus- tries like factory machinery manufacturers, plant EIRE SYSTEMS K.K. outfitters, steel, and shipbuilders are seeing an unprec- Provided by MAGELLAN: Tokyo Address: Suruga Bldg., 3-24-1 Shiba, edented level of demand from China. Japanese com- THE FINANCIAL PLANNING Minato-ku,Tokyo 105-0014, Japan panies that have established factories on mainland COMPANY Tel: +81-3-5484-7935 Mail: [email protected] http://www.eire.co.jp China are best placed to benefit. Automakers like Email: [email protected] TOKYO SINGAPORE HONG KONG DUBLIN Toyota and Honda are building plants in China fitted Tel. 03-3769-5511 with Japanese machinery and ordering high-quality 20 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue BUSINESS PROFILE

High Performance Email Marketing The Little Airline that Could 30 Day FREE Tel: 03-3796-8131 Cathay Pacific—an airline that keeps on growing, by Benjamin Freeland Trial Email: [email protected] Website: www.mailtt.com/week/ ong Kong’s modern-day status as an economic and incorporate the Hong Kong-based regional car- Hand cultural powerhouse at the heart of the new rier Dragonair as a wholly owned subsidiary, giving China is such that it is easy to forget that it was only Cathay Pacific one of the densest route networks in YMCA Foreign Community eleven years ago that this last vestige of Britain’s once the Asia-Pacific region. A perennial traveler favorite, expansive colonial presence in Asia was restored to Cathay Pacific has twice been cited by the UK-based Support Committee (FCSC) Chinese rule. Take a look behind the surface, however, airline research consultancy Skytrax as World’s Best Supporting the YMCA’s Challenged Children Project (CCP) since 1987 and the British patina is still very much alive in the Overall Airline and is one of only six holders of its former colony, ranging from the city’s political insti- coveted five-star rating. tutions and judicial system to its corporate landscape, Cathay Pacific’s acquisition of its Hong Kong- where colonial era companies still flourish under Chi- Tokyo route was instrumental in catapulting it from nese rule. One such commercial outfit is the Swire regional carrier to world–class international airline, How to Donate to the CCP: Group, a venerable -based transnational that and to date, it remains one of its most vital routes. has maintained a powerful presence in Hong Kong By Bank & Post Office Transfer Cheque, Postal Cash Envelope since 1870, whose numerous business interests most Asia and onwards notably include Hong Kong’s flag carrier airline Ca- Currently, the airline is seeking to further bolster For Transfers: Mitsubishi Tokyo UFJ Bank thay Pacific. Now in its 60th year under the Swire ban- its importance to Japanese travelers by promoting it’s Ekimae Branch Ordinary Account, # 1056676 ner, Cathay Pacific has been cited as the world’s best Hong Kong base as a bridgehead between Japan and The National Council of YMCAs of Japan. airline on multiple occasions and continues to expand the vast array of South and Southeast Asian destina- its reach in Asia and elsewhere, while continually set- tions serviced by itself and its affiliate, Dragonair; ting the standard for excellence in air travel. Like something it hopes to achieve by way of its new ‘Hong Hong Kong itself, Cathay Pacific is a child of British Kong SuperStop’ promotion package. Launched on rule that now stands as a proud symbol of a modern, April 1, the ‘SuperStop’ promotion offers a night at a resurgent China. participating Hong Kong hotel for as little as ¥3,600 per person to ‘The hump’ ...the airline is seeking to further p a s s e n g e r s W h i l e t r a v e l i n g Cathay Pacific bolster its importance to Japanese between Japan is a company and any final largely synony- travelers by promoting it’s Hong d e s t i n a t i o n mous with the within the British-ruled Kong base as a bridgehead between Cathay Pacific- Hong Kong, Dragonair net- the airline Japan and the vast array of South work via Hong was actually Kong and is founded by an and Southeast Asian destinations... also valid for 7 Honshio-cho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0003 American (Roy onward travel Tel: 03-5367-6640, Fax: 03-5367-6641 Farrell) and an to mainland Url: www1.ymcajapan.org/english-fcsc Australian (Sydney de Kantzow), two ex-Air Force China on other carriers and even passage to the adja- Email: [email protected] pilots who built a reputation for flying ‘The Hump’, cent Pearl River Delta region by ferry and bus. While a challenging air supply route from British India to this package is good only for a one-night stopover, China across the Himalayas; vital to Chiang Kai- those wishing to extend their stay in Hong Kong can shek’s beleaguered Nationalist army and America’s do so courtesy of Cathay Pacific’s “Stay-A-While” Please Help us Make a Difference. ‘Flying Tiger’ air squadron in their struggle against hotel selection, with special rates is available through the Japanese. Originally based in Shanghai, after the Cathay Holidays Japan. This promotion comes amid war the two men relocated to Hong Kong in 1946 to an expansion of the airline’s Asian routes, with a Quis Custodiet Ipsos Custodes? establish Cathay Pacific, a name that conjoined the new emphasis on connections to India that has seen medieval European name for China and the ocean Dragonair launch daily flights to the Indian IT capi- that Farrell and de Kantzow hoped their fledging tal Bangalore, in addition, Cathay Pacific has added airline would one day traverse. (Farrell and a group Chennai to its network and introducing twice-daily of foreign correspondents allegedly coined the name flights between Hong Kong and New Delhi. QCIC Consulting K.K. Finance, Accounting & Tax / HR / Compliance & Legal in the bar of the Manila Hotel.) Beginning with a With its invaluable connections to the Chinese Administration / Back Office Administration. single DC-3 aircraft known as ‘Betsy’, the fledgling mainland, elsewhere in Asia and other important des- airline inaugurated passenger services to Bangkok, tinations not serviced by any Japanese carriers, such Tel. 03-3505-5565 [email protected] www.qcic.jp Manila, Singapore, and Shanghai from its Hong Kong as Dubai, Riyadh, and Johannesburg, Cathay Pacific’s base, with further unscheduled services to Canton importance to business travelers and others will only Unique Solutions from...a Unique Company (Guangzhou) and Sydney. increase as the emerging economies of China, India, The WEB KIOSK one stop to your web presence Two years after its foundation, this small but aggres- and elsewhere continue their stunning growth. After sive airline attracted the attention of Butterfield & 62 years in the business, Farrell and de Kantzow’s little • Same Day Websites • Swire Ltd.—as today’s Swire Group was then known— airline has far surpassed its founders’ wildest dreams, • Instant Web Presence • • 6 Minute Billing • with the venerable trading company purchasing 45 entering the 21st century as an industry standard set- percent of Cathay Pacific in 1948 and later assuming ter par excellence. a controlling majority in the company. Prospering in the 1950s, Cathay Pacific outplayed its main rival, the XXXEFTJHOTBNVSBJKQ BOAC controlled Hong Kong Airways, and ultimately 03-4550-1506 [email protected] absorbed it in 1959. In doing so, the airline acquired the latter’s route network, including the much cov- eted Hong Kong–Tokyo route, with services to Nagoya and Osaka soon to follow. Cathay Pacific entered the jet age in the 1960s and ultimately achieved its founders’ goal of trans-Pacific flights in the early

1980s with the introduction of its now popular Becker. photo courtesy of flickr.com/Thomas Hong Kong–Vancouver route. The subsequent decades Onwards and upwards. would see the airline expand its network throughout For more information on the Superstop promotion and the world, co-found the Oneworld alliance together Cathay Pacific see www.cathaypacific.com. with American Airlines, British Airways, and Quantas, Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 21 photo courtesy of www.istock.com/rskodonnell. 22 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue BUSINESS

Shinjuku Eisa Festival Okinawan festivities come to Tokyo, by Danielle Tate-Stratton

t is said that in 1603 Jodoshu monks from Kyoto Itraveled to Okinawa from Kyoto and upon their ar- rival, translated parts of their sutras into the Ryukyuan dialect of the area, eventually adding musical tunes to accompany them; thus creating a show of Buddhist chanting and dancing. From this grew the Eisa Festi- val (from the Buddhist refrain “Eisa! (Eiyasa!),” now a mainstay of traditional Okinawan culture. Typically celebrated on July 15 of the lunar cal- endar, the Eisa ritual involves groups of young men and women dancing from house to house in their villages, stopping at each to pray for the health, safety, and prosperity of both the current inhabit- ants of the house and their ancestors. The groups of dancers, or eisa teams, are led from house to house by a jester, who reaches the houses first and is offered sake, which he pours into a pot hanging at the end Is that culture in Shinjuku? of a stick. The jester then enacts a skit of ‘tipsiness’, designed to lighten the mood of the entire event. val-goers can enjoy eisa dancing, performances by Following the jester is a leader of the group, followed Okinawan artists, food, and more. The opening cer- by men and women with drums, and musicians play- emonies also include a parade, which will close down ing the shanshin—a three-stringed guitar-like instru- the Shinjuku Avenues from 1:30–9pm. ment—as well as dancers and singers. So what is Takashi Kinjo’s recommendation for the best locations from which to take in the action? In front of Alta, Shinjuku Carried out to this day in towns Takano, Mitsukoshi Alkoto, and of course, in front of the East Exit. across Okinawa, the Eisa Festival While the parade will wind its way all along the Shinjuku Avenues, is now also in Tokyo. these locations are the best to take in the parade as the dancers will stop and perform at each spot. Carried out to this day in towns across Okinawa, the Eisa Festival is now also in Tokyo. Back for its sev- Okinawa Style enth year, the Shinjuku Eisa Festival takes place from If, after visiting the Shinjuku Eisa Festival, July 23–28 in the Shinjuku area, with even more than you decide you would like a chance to experience the nearly one million spectators of last year expected Okinawa in person, it is very easy to do so. Just a to come to the celebration this year. Though not as couple of hours from Tokyo by air, it is the perfect strictly traditional as its Okinawan counterparts, the place to escape for a weekend away from the city. Shinjuku Eisa Festival offers plenty of entertainment Okinawa, being the most southern part of Japan, is for the entire family. also the warmest and most tropical and is known for its diving. Kinjo suggests the Unaguni Islands, which Eat, Drink, Dance are actually closer to Taiwan than to the rest of Japan, The Orion Beer Festival, taking place on the roof because the resort islands offer some fantastic reef of the Isetan department store, will feature more diving, even during winter when the waters remain a than thirty bands and musicians local to Okinawa, balmy 23–24 degrees Celsius. many with a modern twist. For instance, there will be Should you wish to experience the ultimate in Okinawan hip-hop and pop music as well as innova- traditional Eisa Festivals, then plan to visit Okinawa tive twists on traditional forms of music. An example from August 22–24. During this time, festivals will is found in the Coi-na women’s chorus group, who be going on in villages and towns across the islands. take well-known songs such as Amazing Grace and Some of them will be very traditional and authentic transpose them into a traditional Okinawan folk style whereas others will follow the post-war model of and dialect. The stage is open from 11am–9pm July being bright, colorful, entertainment-based affairs. 23–27 and 11am–4pm July 28; admission is free. Make sure to visit Okinawa City, which has been After you’ve sampled some of the innovative art- holding its Eisa Festival since 1956 and brings togeth- ists or the beer that festival organizers have on tap, er Eisa teams from all over the island. When discuss- it’s the perfect time to taste some of the food that ing a general trip to Okinawa, Kinjo suggests spend- no-doubt contributes to the island’s reputation as ing a day or two at the northern part of the island, the ‘Longevity Islands’ (they boast one of the longest ideal for simply relaxing, before heading south to life expectancies of the world). Head up to the sixth Naha, where one can enjoy more nightlife including floor of the Isetan department store to try out goya, karaoke, traditional dances, and festivals. the popular bitter gourd that is good for your choles- Truly the perfect spot for a weekend getaway, terol (and is said to help beat the heat), or mozuku, anyone who is inspired to consider visiting Okinawa a seaweed dish. Also available will be Ishigaki beef, after taking in the Shinjuku Eisa Festival should visit which Takashi Kinjo of the Okinawa Convention and the special temporary Okinawa Convention and Visitors Bureau says is becoming nearly as popular Visitors Bureau stands which will be available to give and well-known as Kobe beef among Japanese tour- information and suggestions both on the sixth floor ists. Also on the same floor is the chance to purchase of Isetan and at the festival headquarters on Fourth traditional Okinawan handicrafts and textiles. Avenue throughout the duration of the festival. Of course, it wouldn’t be an Eisa Festival without the singing, dancing, and drumming of eisa teams, and the Shinjuku Eisa is no exception. Perhaps the For more information on Okinawa or the Eisa Festival con- main event of the festival is the Opening Ceremony tact Takashi Kinjo at the Okinawa Convention & Visitors on July 26, in front of the east exit of Shinjuku Bureau on tel 098-859-6127 or see www.ocvb.or.jp Station. All afternoon and into the evening, festi- Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 23 SCHOOL’S IN

Schools Away Boarding could be the perfect answer, by Miki S. Noguchi

Photo courtosy of Warner Brothers. Photo courtosy of British Lion Films. Pictures. Photo courtosy of Touchstone

Boarding schools have long been depicted as places for building confidence while having a whole lot of fun. lthough Tokyo offers a lot of international school schools of the time.” Situated on a 120-acre estate that Aoptions to cover every stage of a child’s educa- includes a working farm and a strong performing arts tion—from pre-school through senior high school— program, Bedales offers an alternative to the tradition- sometimes the best option for families is to send their al British boarding school format, encouraging a more children to a school back in their home country, or casual, though still rigorous, academic environment. in another country, that may offer a more extensive and substantial education in their native language. Be- St. Paul’s School (London, England) An all- cause of work commitments or younger children still boys school founded over 500 years ago, originally in school in Japan, it’s not always an option for fami- located right next to the famous St. Paul’s cathedral in lies as a whole to move back to their home country London, but is now found more on the city’s outskirts together and so in those cases, sending children to a on the River Thames. The school has over 800 pupils boarding school is often the most practical solution. who regularly continue on to university at Oxford, Some people have the impression that boarding Cambridge, and American Ivy League schools. Most school is some form of punishment for disobedient students are ‘day’ students, but there are still a fair children or children from families lacking in love. number of ‘boarders.’ At just over $10,000 a year, this However, based on the stories and opinions of one is by far the least expensive of the schools on this list. American girl I know who attended boarding school in Massachusetts, it seems that boarding school is an Ecole d’Humanité (Dorf, Switzerland) This option that can be a much more fun and educational school as been co-educational since its 1911 founding, Let us help create a BIRTHDAY PARTY experience for the right student than the traditional which was certainly a radical concept at the time and your child and friends will never forget! path of attending school locally. This girl could not gives you an idea of the school’s tradition of indepen- sing the praises more for the sense of independence dent thinking. Students live in ‘family groups’ of two PARTY THEMES and confidence that boarding and being educated faculty members and eight boys and girls. Offers Swiss away from the comfort zone of her family fostered in (in German) and American (in English) diploma/edu- Nail Salon • Hair & Makeup • Flower Arrangement her. The friends she lived and studied with at board- cation tracks, depending on where the student is likely Cooking • Face Painting • Clowns Dance • Magic Shows • And MORE! ing school continued to be some of her closest friends to continue in their higher education. No grades are long after graduation. given; all merit is done by assessment. We offer party packages including If you are considering sending your child to board- No matter where or what type of school it is, be decorations, cakes, meals and English ing school in another country, here are some schools it more traditional or more new age, boarding school speaking staff! We do all the planning! from around the globe that have been suggested by isn’t cheap anywhere. Be prepared to pay upwards of local Tokyo international schools: US$40,000 for tuition and board. Most of the pro- grams charge additional fees for textbooks, personal United States: expenses, and certain extra-curricular activities, such as Cate School (Carpinteria, California) A co-educa- equestrian lessons. Financial aid is available for nearly tional school of 265 boarding and day students, grades every school, but they are almost entirely need-based Cell: 090-9148-4529 9–12. Not surprising given its Southern California loca- and usually all parents and stepparents must submit tion, Cate School has a high level of diversity in ethnic their financial records for a student to be considered http://partypalace.co.jp backgrounds and countries of origin, with students of for financial aid. Note that while most of these schools color representing more than 40% and international claim that about 15-20 percent of their student body students making up 19% of the student body. The is international, English as a second language classes school offers 38 AP and honors classes. Located north are generally not available and the school expects stu- of Los Angeles, near Santa Barbara, California. dents to arrive relatively fluent in English (or whatever the language of instruction is). Many of them require a Dana Hall (Wellesley, Massachusetts) A girls’ TOEFL score to be submitted as part of the application school for grades 6–12 with nearly 500 boarding and packet for non-native English speaking students. day students. All-girl education has been lauded as We support bilingual education. a way for girls to feel more comfortable speaking up Some other well-known US-based schools include the and for giving girls a supportive rather than com- Philips Academy Andover in Andover, Massachusetts; We are accepting applications for the petitive environment to thrive in. Dana Hall has a Philips Exeter Academy in Exeter, New Hampshire; the Fall Term After School Program 2008 117-year-long history of providing top-notch educa- Kent School in Kent, Connecticut; and, Choate Rosemary English activities and Japanese immersion classes are available tion and was originally designed as a “feeder school” Hall in Wallingford, Connecticut. In Europe, there is the For registration and information, please visit for the nearby and prestigious women’s university, International Bilingual School of Provence in Aix-en- www.globalkidsacademy.com Wellesley College. Provence, France. In Australia, there is the St. Hilda’s Anglican School for Girls in Mosman Park, Western Europe Australia. 2-13-9 Moto-Azabu Bedales School (Hampshire, England) Founded Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046 in 1893 (co-educational since 1898) the school is An interesting article on the boarding school experience from a Japanese student’s perspective and other informa- Tel: 03-5419-8277 about an hour from London. The website describes E-mail: [email protected] its foundation “as a liberal alternative to the rigid tion about boarding schools in the US can be found at: and authoritarian regimes prevalent in independent www.admissionsquest.com. 24 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue SCHOOL’S IN SCHOOL’S OUT

Closing the Age Gap Connecting with seniors, by Ulara Nakagawa

Photo courtosy of Warner Brothers.

magine lending an arm to a helpless Iold fruit fly crossing the street. I’ll have to confess that a certain article I recently came across in the news has brought the absurd image to mind. The article, Hang- ing with the Young Doubles Lifespan of Fruit Flies: Study, informs us of a recent report headed by a professor of biology at the University of Iowa. The findings reveal that a species of mutant fruit fly, geneti- cally bred to be short-lived and physically weak, lived twice as long when raised in an environ- ment with younger, healthier flies. This got me thinking about my dear grandmother. It was at a family gathering last month that I snuck out of the party room at my uncle’s home to grab a private breath of fresh air away from the mixture of boisterous debating and drunken debauchery that my charming and sake-loving kinfolk love to concoct. As I stood alone outside, I eventually heard a slurred voice pipe up from inside, “Where is Ulara?” Nobody seemed to know, until I heard the raspy 82-year-old voice of my grandmother announce: “She’s been out in the back- yard for about ten minutes.” If anyone could keep track of all 20 or so people and what they might each be doing at any given moment, it is the queen bee (or fruit fly) herself. But I happen to be sure that it is the three equally sharp-witted and lively grandchildren with whom my grandmother shares a home, that keep her on par with them. The study, my grandmother, they both point out the value Everyone deserves a little pampering. of interaction with the young for our seniors. For Deva Hirsch, Founding President and current home where a playground will be rebuilt for children board member of Hands On Tokyo (HOT), the city’s who cannot live with their parents. first bilingual volunteer matching organization, that As my meeting with Hirsch and colleague Yumiko value is all too apparent: “[Senior citizens] want some- came to an end, I knew that I had been inspired and thing to look forward to…it’s not all about physical informed more than sufficiently by the dynamic duo Seisen International needs, it’s also mental...maybe if [they] look forward for this piece. Yet, my inner journalist instinct kicked to our visits, we can help extend their lives or make in and I tried still to draw out that one last bit of School them more full.” information, the one significant core statement that Hirsch knows I could latch this firsthand, as Some of the women were so onto. I ask, “So Hands on Tokyo what is the true extends such moved by their remarkable purpose of this opportunities for kind of event?” KG-12 Catholic school with interaction to vol- transformations, versions of and “what is the unteers and the ultimate reward the longest running elderly with their themselves that they had not of volunteering ongoing proj- with the elder- Montessori Kindergarten in ects with senior seen in so long, that they were ly?” Hirsch said citizens in Tokyo something in the Kanto Plain area. homes. And in response that keeping with that unexpectedly brought to tears. made all my last Seisen offers the spirit, HOT will minute digging hold a major annual event this fall in Tokyo called seem rather silly: “I think that for a lot of people, see- PYP Programme Day of Service on October 4, to be held at four loca- ing that you make someone else happy, whoever it is, and IB Diploma. tions across the city, including a seniors’ home. Day makes you happy. So it’s not so much ‘what can I GET of Service 2008 follows the success of last year’s very from that particular senior’, but ‘if I can bring joy to successful event that brought over 130 Japanese and their day, then I am happy’.” foreign nationals of all ages and backgrounds together It’s true. It’s not about that fuzzy image I once had to volunteer at three different projects throughout of volunteering with the elderly, and in return getting the city. the idealistic experience we see in the movies of a • Co-ed Kindergarten One particular standout moment for those involved sacred bond between an old crinkly war veteran and a with the HOT Day of Service last year was from the troubled young man who is given direction and clar- • Grades 1-12 are for seniors’ home. Elderly women were given makeovers, ity in life as a result of the relationship. The true spirit girls only. then handed Polaroid photos of their ‘after’ looks. of volunteering, of helping, of giving back, transcends Some of the women were so moved by their remark- age or preconceived notions. I think it is the words able transformations, versions of themselves that they on a painting in Hirsch’s own home that might best had not seen in so long, that they were unexpectedly wrap it up: “The moments that stand out in my life brought to tears. are those at which I have done something to help Other activities at this year’s event will include hand massaging and nail care, tea tasting, potpourri For those further interested in Hands On Tokyo, call making, cross-stitching, and more. In addition to the Yumiko Tategami at 03-5404-3563, email info@hand- senior’s home, there will also be important projects sonTokyo.org, or see www.handsontokyo.org. www.seisen.com held at other locations, including one at a children’s Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 25 Yen Loans for Property UK, Australia, New Zealand

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t’s summertime and I hope the living’s easy for you. doing this afternoon?” he asked, and when I told him ILots of good friends are traveling and I hope I can do nothing really special, he invited me to go out to the a bit of that myself in the next few months. Somehow, concert venue where he was having a rehearsal. I, of I’m trying to book my trips around all the interesting course, accepted and believe me, was so happy I did. things happening here, but as Tokyo is always super A huge stage had been set up in front of the pyra- busy that really just doesn’t work. mids and the sphinx and a 36-piece orchestra from I have, thanks to so many friends, been able to London was there to back the world-famous crooner. see a lot of this old world of ours. Even so, there’s a The hour or so rehearsal went smoothly and I still lot more I hope to see. As this issue is on jet-setting, have great memories of that day. I’d like to recall a few of my “way-over-my-budget” It was really hot that day and I saw about ten travel experiences. One of the biggest was a Revlon well-dressed Egyptian ladies sort of straightening out invitation to a fantastic charity event in Cairo hosted the chairs and tables, etc., in the guest’s seating area by Madame Jehan Anwar El-Sadat, wife of Egypt’s late, for the evening’s gala dinner show. “That’s nice,” I great President Anwar Sadat. The three–day charity thought, “taking time to make sure everything’s per- event was for Mrs. Sadat’s Faith and Hope (WAFA fect and working so hard in this heat.” Im sorry to say, Wai Amal) Rehabilitation Center and guests included I was wrong. That evening, there was considerable European royalty and many of the wealthiest people confusion when it came to seating. In talking with one in the world. of the organizers, I learned those hardworking ladies that afternoon were actually rearranging name cards Cairo and Sinata on tables so that they and their friends had the best Once in Cairo, I had the opportunity to call friends seats and many of the big donors like the Rothschilds and catch some rays by the palatial hotel pool. Things and Huttons had been moved to the back tables. I got into full swing that evening with a poolside party. thought there would be major problems, but once There was a lavish buffet of Egyptian and continental the lights went down, special lighting highlighted the food, a colorful and lively Egyptian folkloric show, marvelous setting, the orchestra played the overture, and a fabulous fashion show by French designer Pierre and Sinatra came on stage, things calmed down and Balmain. Others at my table included European roy- everyone relaxed for what had to be the show time alty (a former king and queen, a couple of princesses, experience of a lifetime. What an evening. The next and several counts and countesses). I also had the day was very special as well. We had the opportunity opportunity to meet Frank Sinatra who was scheduled to visit the Faith and Hope Center to see the gratifying to perform in front of the pyramids and sphinx the and awesome work so many people were doing there next evening. as well as meet the President and Mrs. Anwar Sadat I had visited Egypt many times so I passed on the at a reception at the Presidential residence. Now you second day’s morning tours and instead had a leisurely understand why I love Egypt! breakfast with friends and had a bit more time relaxing by the pool. Talk about timing; I went into the hotel’s Monte-Carlo and Princess Grace bookshop to pick up a couple of magazines and ran Another time, a top executive from the Lowes Hotel into Sinatra who was doing the same. We talked about was responsible for my invitation to the three-day Tokyo and discovered that we had mutual friends event opening of their beautiful hotel in Monte- here as well as a few in LA and Vegas. “What are you Carlo. Other Tokyoites there included fashion designer Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 27 PARTYLINE WITH BILL HERSEY

At the Jamaican “One Love” Festival

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Hanae Mori, who brought a group of our city’s top Writing all of this really brought back some great models and did a show there and Dewi Sukarno, with memories and I wish I had more space. Just to men- her squeeze at the time; a cool, young Italian actor. tion a few more, there was the Jenadriya Culture Once again, it was three days of international Festival where I was a guest of the National Guard celebrities, fantastic fun, a full schedule of extraor- in Saudi Arabia, the International Sahara Festival in dinary events, and more fun. The highlight of the Douz, Tunisia, Kuwait’s first Freedom Day from Iraq, opening event was a glittering, glamorous ball hosted the UAE’s 20th Anniversary, both the Goroka and Mt. by the late, great, and gorgeous Princess Grace. I not Hagen Festivals in Papua New Guinea, the Rio Carnival What the Dickens only got to meet and talk with the Princess, I also in Brazil, the Vera Cruz Festival in Mexico, the big got to meet the beautiful and talented Lena Horne, Sony Center opening in Berlin where Sony chairman British Pub who justifiably received a standing ovation after her Norio Ohga conducted the Berlin Philharmonic, plus dynamic performance that evening. It was interesting many, many more great travel experiences. when Lena came out after her show to greet Princess Yes, I do realize how very lucky I’ve been—and Grace, but politely declined to join the Princess and that I do have to write a book or two. For now, I’d bet- Live Music Nightly her guests at the main table. ter use the little space I have left in Partyline for parties 3 Stages from 8:30pm to midnight — Rock, Pop and Jazz Backstage at her one-woman show on Broadway, here in Tokyo. Jam Session 1st Tuesday of Every Month she told me; “This has long been a rule for me. I love Dixieland Jazz 2nd Tuesday of the Month performing, but my shows take a lot out of me and Tokyo Ongoings Poetry Open Mic on 1st Sunday of the month 4 to 7pm after the show I just want to go back to my room and It was another great evening with our Mexican and All Welcome have a massage.” I also have to mention that one of Japanese amigos and amigas when Ambassador Miquel Hollywood’s all-time most beautiful stars, Ava Gardner, Ruiz Cabanas and his wife Martha hosted a recep- was sitting at the table next to me. I’ve always loved tion in honor of Hidenao Nakagawa, President of the Happy Hours Ava, but her fashion choice was bad that evening and Mexico-Japan Parliamentary Friendship Federation Tue–Sat from 5 to 7pm. her sorry-to-say loud, obnoxious (too much cham- and their members. The Mexican music, the food, Pints ¥700, Cocktails/Wine ¥500 pagne) behavior was even worse. Whatever—I still and the warm, laid-back ambiance one always finds at think she was one of the true legends of our time. anything Miquel and Martha do were there. Muchas Dry Blackthorn Cider, Nest Beer White Ale Gracias for another nice evening. and Bass Pale Ale All on Tap The Phillippines with the Marcos Family A big congratulations to Maali Siam, the President of Then there were the countless great times in the the Society of Wives of Arab Ambassadors and Heads of For Maps and Live Music Info; please visit Philippines during the Marcos’ reign. These included Mission, (SWAAJ) and the groups hardworking members five New Years parties in Malacanang, Manila, two on the super success of their 10th Arab Charity Bazaar. It www.whatthedickens.jp or Call 03-3780-2099 nights on the presidential yacht to Kalibo for their was a fun, colorful event with exciting culture, shopping, Mardi Gras-style Ati Ati Festival, and the presidential and food—a perfect example of legendary Arab hospital- Roob 6 Building 4th Floor, 1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-Ku jet for three laid-back days with the Marcos family at ity. In addition to making money for worthwhile charities Malacanang del Norte (the Presidential Palace in the both here in Japan and in the participating countries, the North). Every night Imelda sang duets with the young bazaar went all out to promote a better understanding of Filipino pop stars there. Arab culture and to promote further friendship between Still in the Philippines, I flew in military helicop- their countries and Japan. ters with Brazilian musician Sergio Mendez, his wife The bazaar has gotten bigger and this year it was Graciela, and the Marcos family to one of the country’s held at a large, local government building in Meguro. most beautiful islands. It was a full day of sun and fun. The handicraft, fashion, and jewelry stands were in The highlight was a superb chicken and pork adobo din- the main venue, a henna-hand painting artist was ner for about 30 people at a long table on a verandah working in another area, and the homemade, delicious facing the sea. When we arrived each of us was assigned food outlets were outside in a park area. It all worked a house staff member to take care of our every need and out very well. As always, many of the Arab diplomat’s each attendant stood at attention behind their guest at children were there helping and that really adds a nice the dinner. I have to admit, it was a bit much. touch. As I often say, it was a good day in every way. 28 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue PARTYLINE WITH BILL HERSEY

Segafredo Zanetti Espresso www.segafredo.jp www.segafredo.it

Peninsula Hotel General Manager Malcolm Asian Tigers Premier Worldwide Movers Sales Noriyuki and Junko and their daughter Azusa Thompson and his wife Roxanne. Manager Sandra Von Gessel-Yoda and new co- with Hiroo Segafredo General Manager Hiroyuki In and Around worker Seyla Peou. Komatsu.

Hilton Tokyo General Manager Christian Baudat The Striegl brothers—Frank and Mark—at The The Serbian national volleyball team celebrates and ANA Intercontinental General Manager Fer- New Lex. their victory in Japan at The New Lex. Tall (one gus Stewart at the Hilton’s new Marble Lounge. was seven feet) and fun. Mexican Friendship Night

Guatemalan Ambassador Byron Escobedo, Spanish Ambassador Miquel Carriedo Akira Miwa, Director General Latin American Powerful politician Yuriko Koike, Martha Ruiz- Mompin and Costa Rican Ambassador Mario and Caribbean Affairs, Gaimusho, Panama- Cabanas (wife of the Mexican Ambassador), and Fernandez Silva. nian Ambassador Alfredo Martiz Fuentes, and Martha’s mother Elvia Cantellano, in front of Peruvian Ambassador Hugo Palma. Mexican cherry blossoms.

Kirsten Palma, Jordanian Ambassador Sami Naouri, Philippino Ambas- Hidenao Nakagawa, President of the Parliamentary Federation of Friend- sador Domingo Siazon Jr., Hatitian Ambassador Jean Claude Bordes, and ship between Japan and Mexico, Masayoshi Namiki, Member of the JETRO Chariman and CEO Yasuo Hayashi. House of Representatives, Mexican Ambassador Miquel Ruiz Cabanas, his wife Martha, Kiyohiro Arai, Member of the House of Councillors, and Mrs. Arai.

Svanes Sayonara of a lot of hard work on the part of Jamaican charge Outgoing Danish Ambassador Freddy Svane, his d’affaires Angella Rose-Howell and her dedicated staff. wife Lise, and their children made a lot of friends for Yoyogi Park was full of love the day I went to the themselves and for Denmark during their two-and-a- festival. There were long lines waiting at the booths half year posting here. Prior to their departure, they selling Jamaican food that included a ‘Jerk Dog’ and a hosted an open house sayonara party for members of ‘Jerk Chicken!’ the Japan Denmark Society and for “close friends.” The weather was good and everyone was really enjoy- Their home was wall-to-wall with people who shared ing the love your neighbor, laid-back picnic mood. The the sincere feeling that “It’s been so nice to know you variety of handicrafts and fashions on sale was amazing, and we’re so sorry to see you go.” Lise was the chair- and from what I saw, sales were really good. person of the Ikebana International Fair this year and The Jamaican entertainment that included a vari- did a terrific job. She also helped at my 10th anniver- ety of song and dance with, of course, lots of reggae sary Orphans’ Christmas Party last year. In addition to was awesome. It was pure enjoyment at Yoyogi Park that, she followed up with Momoko Gonohe, head of watching the huge, all-age, all-nationality crowds PR at the Hilton, and was responsible for donations to enjoying themselves. My sincerest congratulations to several orphanages. all who contributed to making the Jamaican Festival a I have to mention the superb buffet at Freddy truly memorable experience for all who were fortunate and Lise’s sayonara party. In addition to the delicious enough to be there. Danish dishes, there were huge trays of boneless tan- Polish Ambassador Marcin Rybicki and his wife dori chicken. Kudos to the chefs Thilak Basnayaka and Adrianna do keep busy. Their recent cultural events Frederik (from the Swedish Embassy). My thanks to included a piano concert of Chopin music by renowned the Svanes for many things and my sincerest wishes Polish pianist and professor Kazimierz Gierzud. A few for a big success in their and their children’s future weeks later they held a photo exhibition titled Mutual ventures back home in Copenhagen. Arising—a Case Study of Interdependence by Thomas Kuczynski at the Polish Embassy. Jamaca Festival Over at the Embassy of Bulgaria, Ambassador In just a few years, the Jamaican Festival at Yoyogi Park Blaqovest Sendov and his wife hosted an occasion on has become one of the most colorful, fun, and popular the day of Bulgarian Culture and Cyrilic Alphabet in events of its kind. Much of the success was the result their Yoyogi residence. Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 29

ARTS WITH OWEN SCHAEFER

Gilles Jobin Sends a Text Message

here are plenty of good reasons to come to Tokyo Twhen it comes to art. The arts scene, like so many other aspects of this city, is strong, independent, and in- creasingly influential abroad. For the very same reason, there are more and more reasons for overseas artists to image courtesy of gillesjobin. bring their work to Japan. A ballet as never seen before. So for those who love dance, the opportunity to see He is renowned for undermining one expectation a work from Gilles Jobin—one revealed to audiences in after another, including a recent commission work his native Switzerland as recently as March—is not to for the Grand Théâtre de Genève which was closer, be missed. without being truly close, to classical ballet. But most Jobin was classically trained in ballet but his works recently, Jobin revealed a work which bridges one of are among the most contemporary you could ask for. the most unlikely gaps: speech. At least in a manner of He is resident choreographer at the Théâtre Arsenic in speaking. Lausanne, a position that he has held for many years The work does not venture near to the realm of while busily piling up international acclaim. On top of drama or even narrative—at least not in a deliberate a respectable stack of awards, his work The Moebius Strip manner—but runs together words and stories in various has had an award-winning documentary filmed about languages, taken from the internet and broadcast to the it and tours of his productions are nearly constant. stage by way of text-to-speech software, which speaks Jobin has spent his career studying the body, move- text documents in a computerized voice manipulated ment, and space. And throughout his explorations he from the stage. This is coupled with a complex and has been intuitively, or perhaps even systematically, quite literally “wired” set, interplayed images on sev- tearing down assumptions about each of those main eral monitors, and of course the dancers occupying ideas. His work is by turns conceptual, physical, aesthet- the space, almost literally, between words. The dance, ic, and even political. The main attractions to Jobin’s too, seems a pastiche, moving through almost classical work are his increasing use of innovative media, and his segments, ballroom, and Jobin’s more signature low-to- refusal to stick to one style. the-ground work. His breakthrough work, A+B=Z, was a meditation Text to Speech presents the computer as mediator on the body in both stillness and movement, which for story, sound, and image, creating a context for the he called “the body as prison, the body as a living art dancer but also a kind of interruption. Certainly, both object.” The piece was highly successful and yet look- speech and text have become daily backdrops to our ing at the bulk of Jobin’s work, it was a mere starting lives and at times (consider the nagging psychological point. In The Moebius Strip, he forced all movement into need to respond to text-messages) jump insistently to the flattened confines of a grid on the stage, allowing the foreground. It may not be the first dance work to only geometry to define movement and deconstructing bring in a vocal or text aspect, but the sheer richness any narrative temptations on the part of the audience. and complexity of images, words, sound, movement, In Under Construction, he tore into the very fabric of and the shifting of unexpected contexts throughout the the stage itself, turning it into nothing more than a project promise to make it the choreographer’s most skin that the dancers could not only move upon, but ambitious work to date. beneath, breaking it’s sanctity. In Steak House, he recre- ated an apartment with the dancers as its dysfunctional The Text to Speech, Jul 25–26, Spiral Hall. Omotesando tenants, reacting to its objects, space, and each other Metro Station. ¥4,300. Fri. 7:30pm, Sat 2pm. 03-3498- until the relationships becomes so abstract that every- 1171. www.spiral.co.jp. thing appears to be a part of the space; transforming it. CROSSWORD #31

Across Down 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1. Well travelled social 1. Courtroom obligation (8) group (3,3) 2. Lady sings ..... (3.5) 9 10 4. Tokyo entertainment 3. Leave (4) area (8) 5. Never shut (4,3,5) 11

9. Pull a fish (4,2) 6. Benefit (4) 12 13 14 7. Total confidence (2,4) 10. Fantastic (8) 15 16 12. Boring (4) 8. Proof of age (2,4) 17 13. Semi precious gem- 11. Sun block? (5,7) stone (5) 15. Close by pub (5) 18 19

14. Couple (4) 16. Paris brother (5) 20 17. Non drinkers (12) 18. Embassy official (8) 21 22 20. Choose (4,4,4) 19. Parachutes (3,5) 23. Coral home (4) 21. Thank God it’s ... (6) 23 24 25

24. Exaltation (5) 22. Hyde’s counterpart (6) 26 27 25. Happy (4) 26. Three man band (4) 28 29 28. Short outings (3,5) 29. I Robot author (6) 30. Colored with age (8) 30 31 31. Free (6)

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Jul 18–31 2008 Vol. 39 No. 14 31 For Healthy Air Travel

32 | Weekender—Tokyo Jet-Setters Issue