The Charm of the Chiltern Hills

Naturetrek Tour Report 17 - 19 May 2017

Adder’s Tongue

Military Orchid

Monkey Orchid Green-winged Orchid

Report and images compiled by James Harding-Morris

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report The Charm of the Chiltern Hills

Tour participants: James Harding-Morris (leader) with four Naturetrek clients

Summary

A three-day tour comprising some of the best orchid and wildflower sites in the Chilterns, a walk along the Thames path from Goring, as well as a day-trip off the chalk to visit RSPB Otmoor for birds and some traditionally managed meadows with a different community of wild flowers. The weather was mixed and occasionally challenging, but we spiritedly carried on and were rewarded with spells of gorgeous weather. A recurring theme of the tour was hybrids, as we saw hybrid comfreys, orchids, geese and

Day 1 Wednesday 17th May

We met in the bar of the Lambert Arms, introduced ourselves and, considering that today looked to be the wettest of our three days, opted to visit some of the more local reserves. A short drive later we were at the north side of Aston Rowant NNR, admiring the flora of the car park: Green Alkanet, Wood Forget-Me-Not, and some garden Aquilegia. Heading on to the reserve proper, the damp conditions gave us a great opportunity to see a variety of snails and compare their different features, particularly the similar yellow-and-black striped Cepaea hortensis and Cepaea nemoralis which can be distinguished by the colour of the shell lip. We admired a stately Whitebeam and an impressive stand of Juniper, whilst also taking an opportunity to interact with some of the sculptures that dot the reserve.

Hopping across the M40, we parked at Cowlease Wood and walked through the edge of the wood, admiring the blue haze of English Bluebells and patches of Yellow Archangel. We also stopped to admire a very large and almost white Great Red Slug – not quite living up to its name! Heading on to the southern side of Aston Rowant NNR we discovered our first orchids – Twayblades. We took a rough count as we walked twenty metres or so and easily counted more than one hundred plants that were easily visible from the footpath, though they were comfortably outnumbered by the still-flowering Cowslips. Despite the rain, a Red Kite flew overhead, around us, and then landed a little further up the slope, and we were able to listen to more kites whistling plaintively from the wood opposite.

We stopped for lunch at Chris’ Cafe, where the serving staff kindly put some food out for the kites despite the rain. Our hopes weren’t high, but very soon we were watching some very damp kites whistling in the trees opposite, with a few brave (or hungry!) individuals swooping down to snag a titbit from the car park.

As we were feeling wet and the rain showed no sign of abating until later in the afternoon, we visited a heritage site: Little Kimble Church. The church has the substantial remains of 14th century wall paintings and we spent a bit of time admiring these centuries-old artworks and deciphering the church guide as to which saints and stories we were looking at. A brief discussion was had as to which birds were depicted in the painting of St Francis; a Robin was the only species we tentatively identified. We also admired a mass-dial inside the church as well as a breathtaking collection of 13th century tiles, supposedly removed here from the ruins of Chertsey Abbey.

Finally the rain slackening slightly so we visited Aston Clinton Ragpits. As we stepped on to the reserve we almost immediately encountered a Greater Butterfly Orchid, unfortunately still in bud. The rest of the reserve was almost a carpet of Twayblades, interspersed with the largest British snail – the Roman Snail. Exploring the

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

edge of the woodland we found a Mezereon with unripe berries, and then nearby our first White Helleborines of the trip underneath a narrow band of Beeches. Happy with the day, we headed back to the hotel to dry off and relax.

Day 2 Thursday 18th May

After an early breakfast we drove down to Goring, at the very southern edge of the Chilterns. We parked on the edge of the town, and, enjoying the beautiful sunshine, walked down a footpath and along the Thames. Along the walk we listened to Garden Warblers and Song Thrushes, and enjoyed watching House Martins swoop over the river, only surpassed by the Hobby we saw soaring along behind them. We spent a bit of time separating out our Common, Russian and White Comfreys, and we were surprised and delighted to encounter a Wild Service Tree. We stopped briefly by the railway bridge to see if there was any chance of spotting the enigmatic Club- tailed Damselfly. Unfortunately not, but we did see Banded Demoiselles and a handsome Dock Bug. A little further along the river we encountered Loddon Lillies, the first time any member of the tour had seen this species in the wild, restricted as it is to the Thames catchment.

We then walked up the hill to Hartslock Reserve, stopping to identify the mint moth Pyrausta purpalis on the way. Open entering Hartslock we were taken aback by the sheer abundance of hybrids between the Lady and Monkey Orchids, which vastly outnumber both of the parent species combined, and easily surpass them in size and robustness. By searching carefully we were able to find a number of the pure-bred dainty Monkey Orchids, as well as finding the single flowering Lady Orchid. Exploring the reserve further we found more White Helleborines, the elongated spindle-shaped snail Cochlodina laminate, as well as the intriguing Round-mouthed Snail or ‘Land Winkle’. We spent a short time separating Chalk Milkwort from Common Milkwort, and also spotted our first Fairy-flax and Holly Blue. Hunger, however, drew us from this wonderful reserve and we headed to the Maltser’s Arms for lunch.

In the afternoon we went to Homefield Wood, a fantastic Wildlife Trust reserve with an amazing abundance of orchids. Entering the reserve, we noted Wood Spurge and a few plants of Lemon Balm growing wild – a first as a ‘wild’ plant for most of the group. The Military Orchids were immediately apparent scattered across the first field of the reserve, and we spent the first few minutes walking and quietly admiring this fantastically rare species. As we did so, we also noticed that this reserve held a few Common Spotted Orchids that could be just about described as ‘in flower’. Delightfully, a Greater Butterfly Orchid was found in flower by the edge of the reserve, only a few feet away from the tour’s first Spurge Laurel and another scattered population of White Helleborines. We then went hunting for Fly Orchids, unsuccessfully at first, until one was suddenly spotted accidently behind a Military Orchid. With this, we had our eyes in, and we spotted more and more until – at sixty spikes! – we gave up counting and just enjoyed the sheer abundance. A subtle but interesting find was the hybrid between Ladies Bedstraw and Hedge Bedstraw, something new for the entire group.

Day 3 Friday 19th May

On our third day we left the chalk of the Chilterns to visit Otmoor RSPB. Upon arrival we could hear Sedge Warblers from the car park and as we walked, we compared their songs with those of Reed Warblers. We also heard the explosive songs of Cetti’s Warblers, and admired Goldfinches on the feeders. Approaching the hide, we heard a Lesser Whitethroat calling repeatedly from a dense hedge, but as is often the case with this species,

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

we were unable to spot it skulking deep inside. From the hide we were rewarded with excellent, close views of Yellowhammer, Linnet and a beautiful pair of Bullfinches – as well as confident Brown Rat. A Stock Dove bathed directly in front of the hide windows; a great view of this typically shy bird. Birds more typical of wetlands were also apparent with Grey Heron, Lapwing, Little Egret and Redshank taking turns to strut in front of the windows.

Leaving the hide and scanning a nearby wet meadow we spotted three species of geese: Greylag, Canada and Barnacle; as well as the distinctively-intermediate hybrid between Greylag and Canada Goose. Walking to the viewpoint we were treated to views of a Marsh Harrier flying overhead, and from the viewpoint we were able to watch two more, a male and female, approach the viewpoint, the male in particular giving some great views. As we walked back the way we’d come a Hobby teased us by swooping up into view and then down out of view behind a screen of reeds. As the cloud cleared and the sun began to shine a bit more convincingly, a number of Blue-tailed Damselflies began to flit between our legs. Walking back towards the car park, James spotted something, briefly, out in the wet grasslands which then ducked out of site. A moment’s panic ensued as he quickly erected the telescope and scanned...a pair of Common Cranes! As we watched, the cranes came out into full view and we were able to take it in turns to drink in views of these majestic birds through the telescope. As we did so, we noticed that there were at least three Hobbies darting over the wetlands, presumably chasing the dragonflies that had emerged with the sun. We entered the car park, ready to leave, and were delighted to hear the purring of a Turtle Dove nearby, finishing off the morning’s excursion wonderfully.

We stopped for lunch at the Nut Tree Inn where we were enthusiastically greeted (or attacked?) by a tiny white duck, and spent a few minutes trying to decide whether the flora of the ornamental pond was wild enough to count. From here we went to Bernwood Meadows, and the weather was now glorious. The meadows were a swathe of Green-winged Orchids, interspersed here and there with Early Marsh Orchids. We wandered the meadows, admiring particularly the variety in Green-winged Orchids, which ranged from dark purple through bicolour purple and pink, pink, salmon, rose and white. David spotted Adder’s-tongue ferns and as soon as we’d all seen it and ‘got our eyes in’, we realised that they were almost everywhere. Common Blue butterflies were abundant, and we admired the pretty shell-patterns of Grass Rivulet moths. After exploring the entire meadow we walked back to the car, stopping to admire either a Treble-bar or Lesser-treble Bar. Luckily, David had a guide to day-flying moths with him and we were able to happily judge it a Lesser-treble Bar.

Then, after heading back to the hotel bar for a final cup of tea and to tally up our lists, we bid our farewells and made our respective journey’s home.

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Species Lists

Plants

Scientific Name Common Name

PINOPSIDA (GYMNOSPERMS) CONIFERS

Cupressaceae Juniper Family Juniperus communis Juniper

Pinaceae Pine Family Picea abies ssp. abies Spruce

Taxaceae Yew Family Taxus baccata Yew

MAGNOLIOPSIDA (ANGIOSPERMS) FLOWERING PLANTS

Aceraceae Maple Family Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore Acer platanoides Norwegian Maple Acer campestre Field Maple

Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) Carrot Family Aegipodium podagaria Ground Elder Anthriscus sylvestris Cow Parsley Heracleum sphondyllium Hogweed Sanicula europaea Sanicle Conium maculatum Hemlock Oenanthe crocata Hemlock Water-dropwort

Aquifoliaceae Holly Family Ilex aquifolia Holly

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix agg Ivy

Asteraceae (Compositae) Daisy Family Achillea millefolium Yarrow Bellis perennis Daisy Centaurea nigra Knapweed Cirsium arvense Creeping Thistle Cirsium palustre Marsh Thistle Cirsium vulgare Spear Thistle Leucanthimum vulgare Ox-eye Daisy Matricaria discoidea Pineappleweed Senecio vulgaris Groundsel Taraxacum agg Dandelion Tragapogon pratensis Goat's-beard Artemisia vulgaris Mugwort Arctium lappa Greater Burdock Crepis biennis Rough Hawksbeard Helminthotheca echioides Bristly Oxtongue Tussilago farfara Coltsfoot

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name

Leontodon hispidus Rough Hawkbit

Betulaceae (Corylaceae) Birch Family Betula pendula Silver Birch Alnus glutinosa Alder

Boraginaceae Forget-me-not Family Myosotis arvensis Field Forget-me-not Myosotis sylvatica Wood Forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens Green Alkanet Symphytum officinale Common Comfrey Symphytum orientale White Comfrey Symphytum x uplandicum Russian Comfrey

Brassicaceae (Cruciferae) Cabbage Family Alliaria petiolata Garlic Mustard Brassica rapa Wild Turnip Barbarea vulgaris Winter Cress Cardamine pratensis Cuckooflower

Cannabaceae Humulus lupulus Hop

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Sambucus nigra Elder Viburnum lantana Wayfaring Tree Viburnum opulus Guelder Rose Symphoricarpos albus Snowberry

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Cerastium fontanum Common Mouse-ear Lychnis flos-cuculi Ragged Robin Silene dioica Red Campion Silene latifolia (S.alba) White Campion Stellaria holostea Greater Stitchwort

Celastraceae Spindle-tree Family Euonymus europaeus Spindle-tree

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Helianthimum nummularium Common Rockrose

Cornaceae Dogwood Family Cornus sanguinea Dogwood

Corylaceae Hazel Family Corylus avellana Hazel

Cucurbitaceae Cucumber Family Bryonia dioica White Bryony

Dipsacaceae Teasel Family Dipsacus fullonum Teasel

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia amygdaloides Wood Spurge Mercurialis perennis Dog’s Mercury

Fabaceae (Leguminosae) Pea Family Hippocrepis comosa Horseshoe Vetch Lathyrus pratensis Yellow Vetchling Lotus corniculatus Bird’s-foot Trefoil Trifolium dubium Lesser Yellow Trefoil Trifolium pratense Red Clover Trifolium repens White Clover Vicia sativa ssp. segetalis Common Vetch

Fagaceae Oak & Beech Family Carpinus betulus Hornbeam Fagus sylvatica Beech Quercus robor Pedunculate Oak

Gentianaceae Gentian Family Blackstonia perfoliata Yellow Wort

Geraniaceae Geranium Family Geranium dissectum Cut-leaved Crane’s-bill Geranium molle Dove’s-foot Crane’s-bill Geranium pratense Meadow Crane's-bill Geranium robertianum Herb Robert

Lamiaceae (Labiatae) Dead-nettle Family Glechoma hederacea Ground-ivy Lamium album White Deadnettle Lamium purpureum Red Deadnettle Lamium galeobdolon Yellow Archangel Oregano officinalis Marjoram Thymus polytrichis Wild Thyme Ajuga reptans Bugle Melissa officinalis Lemon Balm

Linaceae Flax Family Linum catharticum Purging or Fairy Flax

Malvaceae Mallow Family Malva sylvestris Common Mallow

Oleaceae Olive Family Fraxinus excelsior Ash Ligustrum vulgare Wild Privet

Onagraceae Willowherb Family Epilobium hirsutum Great Willowherb

Orobanchaceae Euphrasia sp. Eyebright

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Papaver rhoaes Corn Poppy

Plantaginaceae Plantain Family Plantago lanceolata Ribwort Plantain Plantago majus Greater Plantain

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala vulgaris Common Milkwort Polygala calcarea Chalk Milkwort

Polygonaceae Knotweed Family Rumex acetosa Sorrel Rumex crispus Curled Dock Rumex obtusifolius Broad-leaved Dock

Primulaceae Primrose Family Primula veris Cowslip Primula vulgaris Primrose Primula x polyantha False Oxlip Lysimachia nummularia Creeping-Jenny

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Clematis vitalba Old man’s-beard Ranunculus acris Meadow Buttercup Ranunculus bulbosus Bulbous Buttercup Ranunculus repens Creeping Buttercup Ficaria verna Lesser Celandine Caltha palustris Marsh Marigold

Resedaceae Mignonette Family Reseda lutea Wild Mignonette

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Rhamnus catharticus Buckthorn

Rosaceae Rose Family Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Filipendula ulmaria Meadowsweet Geum urbanum Wood Avens or Herb Bennet Potentilla anserina Silverweed Potentilla erecta Tormentil Potentilla reptans Creeping Cinquefoil Prunus avium Wild Cherry Prunus spinosa Blackthorn Rosa canina agg Dog Rose Rubus fruticosus agg Bramble Sanguisorba minor agg Salad Burnet Sorbus aria agg Whitebeam Sorbus aucuparia Rowan Prunus cerasifera Cherry Plum Potentilla sterilis Barren Strawberry Sorbus torminalis Wild Service

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Cruciata laevipes Crosswort Galium aparine Cleavers Galium mollugo Hedge Bedstraw Galium verum Lady's Bedstraw Sheradia arvensis Field Madder Galium odoratum Woodruff Galium × pomeranicum Hybrid Galium

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Rhinanthus minor agg Hay Rattle Scrophularia nodosa Common Figwort Verbascum thapsus Great Mullein Veronica chamaedrys Germander Speedwell Veronica montana Wood Speedwell

Thymelaeaceae Daphne Family Daphne laureola Spurge-laurel Daphne mezereon Mezereon

Ulmaceae Ulmus sp. Elm

Urticacae Nettle Family Parietaria judaica Pelitory of the Wall Urtica dioica Common Nettle

Valerianaceae Valerian Family Centranthus ruber Red Valerian

Violaceae Violet Family Viola riviniana Common Dog Violet

Liliidae (Monocotyledons)

Araceae Arum Family Arum maculatum Lords and Ladies

Asparagaceae Bluebell Family Hyacinthoides non-scripta Bluebell Hyacinthoides hispanica Spanish Bluebell

Dioscoreaceae Black Bryony Family Tamus communis Black Bryony

Iridaceae Iris Family Iris psuedocorus Yellow Flag

Liliaceae Lily Family Leucojum aestivum Loddon Lily

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name

Nymphaeaceae Nuphar lutea Yellow Water-lily

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Anacamptis morio Green-winged Orchid Platanthera chlorantha Greater Butterfly-orchid Cephalanthera damasonium White Helleborine Dactylorhiza fuchsii Common Spotted Orchid Dactylorhiza incarnata Early Marsh Orchid Orchis militaris Military Orchid Orchis simia Monkey Orchid Orchis purpurea Lady Orchid Orchis x angusticruris Lady x Monkey Orchid Listera ovata Twayblade Ophrys insectifera Fly Orchid

Ferns Asplenium ruta-muraria Wall-rue Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort Pteridium aquilinum Bracken Ophioglossum vulgatum Adder's-tongue Fern

Unranked Typha latifolia Greater Reedmace Briza minor Lesser Quaking-grass

Birds

Red-legged Partridge , Alectoris rufa Common Pheasant , Phasianus colchicus Greylag Goose , Anser anser Canada Goose , Branta canadensis Greylag x Canada Goose, A. anser x B. canadensis Barnacle Goose, Branta leucopsis Mute Swan , Cygnus olor Gadwall , Anas strepera Mallard , Anas platyrhynchos Northern Shoveler, Anas clypeata Common Pochard , Aythya ferina Tufted Duck , Aythya fuligula Great Crested Grebe , Podiceps cristatus Grey Heron , Ardea cinerea Little Egret , Egretta garzetta Great Cormorant , Phalacrocorax carbo Red Kite, Milvus milvus Western Marsh Harrier, Circus aeruginosus Common Kestrel , Falco tinnunculus Eurasian Hobby , Falco subbuteo Peregrine Falcon , Falco peregrinus Common Moorhen , Gallinula chloropus Eurasian Coot , Fulica atra Common Crane, Grus grus Eurasian Oystercatcher, Haematopus ostralegus Northern Lapwing , Vanellus vanellus Common Redshank, Tringa totanus Black-headed Gull , Chroicocephalus ridibundus Lesser Black-backed Gull , Larus fuscus Common Tern , Sterna hirundo Stock Dove , Columba oenas Common Wood Pigeon , Columba palumbus European Turtle Dove , Streptopelia turtur Eurasian Collared Dove , Streptopelia decaocto Common Cuckoo , Cuculus canorus Common Swift , Apus apus Great Spotted Woodpecker , Dendrocopos major European Green Woodpecker , Picus viridis Eurasian Magpie , Pica pica Western Jackdaw , Coloeus monedula Rook , Corvus frugilegus Carrion Crow , Corvus corone Great Tit , Parus major Eurasian Blue Tit , Cyanistes caeruleus

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Eurasian Skylark , Alauda arvensis Barn Swallow , Hirundo rustica Common House Martin , Delichon urbicum Willow Warbler , Phylloscopus trochilus Common Chiffchaff , Phylloscopus collybita Sedge Warbler , Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Eurasian Reed Warbler , Acrocephalus scirpaceus Eurasian Blackcap , Sylvia atricapilla Garden Warbler , Sylvia borin Lesser Whitethroat , Sylvia curruca Common Whitethroat , Sylvia communis Cetti's Warbler, Cettia cetti Goldcrest , Regulus regulus Eurasian Wren , Troglodytes troglodytes Common Starling , Sturnus vulgaris Common Blackbird , Turdus merula Song Thrush , Turdus philomelos European Robin , Erithacus rubecula House Sparrow , Passer domesticus Common Chaffinch , Fringilla coelebs European Greenfinch , Chloris chloris European Goldfinch , Carduelis carduelis Common Linnet , Linaria cannabina Eurasian Bullfinch , Pyrrhula pyrrhula Yellowhammer , Emberiza citrinella Common Reed Bunting , Emberiza schoeniclus

Mammals

Grey Squirrel, Sciurus carolinensis Rabbit, Oryctolagus cuniculus Brown Rat, Rattus norwegicus

Fungi

Dryad's Saddle, Polyporus squamosus King Alfred's Cakes, Daldinia concentrica Pocket Plums (gall), Taphrina pruni

Butterflies

Brimstone, Gonepteryx rhamni Large White, Pieris brassicae Orange-tip, Anthocharis cardamines Common Blue , Polyommatus icarus Holly Blue, Celastrina argiolus Small Tortoiseshell, Aglais urticae Small Heath, Ceononympha pamphilus

Moths

Mint Moth, Pyrausta aurata Mint Moth, Pyrausta purpalis Common Carpet, Epirrhoe alternata Silver Y, Autographa gamma Grass Rivulet, Perizoma albulata Lesser Treble-bar, Aplocera efformata

Molluscs

Great Black Slug, Arion ater Great Red Slug, Arion rufus Roman Snail, Helix pomatia Garden Snail, Cornu aspersum Brown-lipped Snail, Cepaea nemoralis White-lipped Snail, Cepaea hortensis Kentish Snail, Monacha cantiana Copse Snail, Arianta arbustorum A snail, Cernuella virgata Heath Snail, Helicella itala Hairy Snail, Trochulus hispidus Round-mouthed Snail, Pomatias elegans Plaited Door Snail, Cochlodina laminata Lapidary Snail, Helicigona lapicida

Beetles

Harlequin Ladybird, Harmonia axyridis Cream-spot Ladybird, Calvia quattuordecimguttata 7-spot Ladybird, Coccinella septempunctata Dock Beetle, Gastrophysa viridula Cryptocephalus sp. Garden Chafer, Phyllopertha horticola

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Crustaceans

Shiny Woodlouse, Oniscus asellus Common Pill Woodlouse, Armadillidium vulgare

Other insects

Banded Demoiselle, Calopteryx splendens Blue-tailed Damselfly, Ischnura elegans Red-and-Black Froghopper, Cercopis vulnerata An Alderfly, Sialis sp. A Scorpionfly, Panorpa sp. Dock Bug, Coreus marginatus Common Green Shieldbug, Palomena prasina

Other Invertebrates

Nursery Web Spider, Pisaura mirabilis Lime Nail Gall, Eriophyes tiliae Waywaring Pustule Mite Gall, Eriophyes viburni Field Maple Pustule Mite Gall, Aceria myriadeum Field Maple Angle Gall, Aceria macrochela Sycamore Pustule Gall, Aceria cephaloneus

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Lady x Monkey Orchids