The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Naturetrek Tour Report 17 - 19 May 2017 Adder’s Tongue Military Orchid Monkey Orchid Green-winged Orchid Report and images compiled by James Harding-Morris Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour participants: James Harding-Morris (leader) with four Naturetrek clients Summary A three-day tour comprising some of the best orchid and wildflower sites in the Chilterns, a walk along the Thames path from Goring, as well as a day-trip off the chalk to visit RSPB Otmoor for birds and some traditionally managed meadows with a different community of wild flowers. The weather was mixed and occasionally challenging, but we spiritedly carried on and were rewarded with spells of gorgeous weather. A recurring theme of the tour was hybrids, as we saw hybrid comfreys, orchids, geese and Day 1 Wednesday 17th May We met in the bar of the Lambert Arms, introduced ourselves and, considering that today looked to be the wettest of our three days, opted to visit some of the more local reserves. A short drive later we were at the north side of Aston Rowant NNR, admiring the flora of the car park: Green Alkanet, Wood Forget-Me-Not, and some garden Aquilegia. Heading on to the reserve proper, the damp conditions gave us a great opportunity to see a variety of snails and compare their different features, particularly the similar yellow-and-black striped Cepaea hortensis and Cepaea nemoralis which can be distinguished by the colour of the shell lip. We admired a stately Whitebeam and an impressive stand of Juniper, whilst also taking an opportunity to interact with some of the sculptures that dot the reserve. Hopping across the M40, we parked at Cowlease Wood and walked through the edge of the wood, admiring the blue haze of English Bluebells and patches of Yellow Archangel. We also stopped to admire a very large and almost white Great Red Slug – not quite living up to its name! Heading on to the southern side of Aston Rowant NNR we discovered our first orchids – Twayblades. We took a rough count as we walked twenty metres or so and easily counted more than one hundred plants that were easily visible from the footpath, though they were comfortably outnumbered by the still-flowering Cowslips. Despite the rain, a Red Kite flew overhead, around us, and then landed a little further up the slope, and we were able to listen to more kites whistling plaintively from the wood opposite. We stopped for lunch at Chris’ Cafe, where the serving staff kindly put some food out for the kites despite the rain. Our hopes weren’t high, but very soon we were watching some very damp kites whistling in the trees opposite, with a few brave (or hungry!) individuals swooping down to snag a titbit from the car park. As we were feeling wet and the rain showed no sign of abating until later in the afternoon, we visited a heritage site: Little Kimble Church. The church has the substantial remains of 14th century wall paintings and we spent a bit of time admiring these centuries-old artworks and deciphering the church guide as to which saints and stories we were looking at. A brief discussion was had as to which birds were depicted in the painting of St Francis; a Robin was the only species we tentatively identified. We also admired a mass-dial inside the church as well as a breathtaking collection of 13th century tiles, supposedly removed here from the ruins of Chertsey Abbey. Finally the rain slackening slightly so we visited Aston Clinton Ragpits. As we stepped on to the reserve we almost immediately encountered a Greater Butterfly Orchid, unfortunately still in bud. The rest of the reserve was almost a carpet of Twayblades, interspersed with the largest British snail – the Roman Snail. Exploring the © Naturetrek June 17 1 The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report edge of the woodland we found a Mezereon with unripe berries, and then nearby our first White Helleborines of the trip underneath a narrow band of Beeches. Happy with the day, we headed back to the hotel to dry off and relax. Day 2 Thursday 18th May After an early breakfast we drove down to Goring, at the very southern edge of the Chilterns. We parked on the edge of the town, and, enjoying the beautiful sunshine, walked down a footpath and along the Thames. Along the walk we listened to Garden Warblers and Song Thrushes, and enjoyed watching House Martins swoop over the river, only surpassed by the Hobby we saw soaring along behind them. We spent a bit of time separating out our Common, Russian and White Comfreys, and we were surprised and delighted to encounter a Wild Service Tree. We stopped briefly by the railway bridge to see if there was any chance of spotting the enigmatic Club- tailed Damselfly. Unfortunately not, but we did see Banded Demoiselles and a handsome Dock Bug. A little further along the river we encountered Loddon Lillies, the first time any member of the tour had seen this species in the wild, restricted as it is to the Thames catchment. We then walked up the hill to Hartslock Reserve, stopping to identify the mint moth Pyrausta purpalis on the way. Open entering Hartslock we were taken aback by the sheer abundance of hybrids between the Lady and Monkey Orchids, which vastly outnumber both of the parent species combined, and easily surpass them in size and robustness. By searching carefully we were able to find a number of the pure-bred dainty Monkey Orchids, as well as finding the single flowering Lady Orchid. Exploring the reserve further we found more White Helleborines, the elongated spindle-shaped snail Cochlodina laminate, as well as the intriguing Round-mouthed Snail or ‘Land Winkle’. We spent a short time separating Chalk Milkwort from Common Milkwort, and also spotted our first Fairy-flax and Holly Blue. Hunger, however, drew us from this wonderful reserve and we headed to the Maltser’s Arms for lunch. In the afternoon we went to Homefield Wood, a fantastic Wildlife Trust reserve with an amazing abundance of orchids. Entering the reserve, we noted Wood Spurge and a few plants of Lemon Balm growing wild – a first as a ‘wild’ plant for most of the group. The Military Orchids were immediately apparent scattered across the first field of the reserve, and we spent the first few minutes walking and quietly admiring this fantastically rare species. As we did so, we also noticed that this reserve held a few Common Spotted Orchids that could be just about described as ‘in flower’. Delightfully, a Greater Butterfly Orchid was found in flower by the edge of the reserve, only a few feet away from the tour’s first Spurge Laurel and another scattered population of White Helleborines. We then went hunting for Fly Orchids, unsuccessfully at first, until one was suddenly spotted accidently behind a Military Orchid. With this, we had our eyes in, and we spotted more and more until – at sixty spikes! – we gave up counting and just enjoyed the sheer abundance. A subtle but interesting find was the hybrid between Ladies Bedstraw and Hedge Bedstraw, something new for the entire group. Day 3 Friday 19th May On our third day we left the chalk of the Chilterns to visit Otmoor RSPB. Upon arrival we could hear Sedge Warblers from the car park and as we walked, we compared their songs with those of Reed Warblers. We also heard the explosive songs of Cetti’s Warblers, and admired Goldfinches on the feeders. Approaching the hide, we heard a Lesser Whitethroat calling repeatedly from a dense hedge, but as is often the case with this species, 2 © Naturetrek June 17 The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report we were unable to spot it skulking deep inside. From the hide we were rewarded with excellent, close views of Yellowhammer, Linnet and a beautiful pair of Bullfinches – as well as confident Brown Rat. A Stock Dove bathed directly in front of the hide windows; a great view of this typically shy bird. Birds more typical of wetlands were also apparent with Grey Heron, Lapwing, Little Egret and Redshank taking turns to strut in front of the windows. Leaving the hide and scanning a nearby wet meadow we spotted three species of geese: Greylag, Canada and Barnacle; as well as the distinctively-intermediate hybrid between Greylag and Canada Goose. Walking to the viewpoint we were treated to views of a Marsh Harrier flying overhead, and from the viewpoint we were able to watch two more, a male and female, approach the viewpoint, the male in particular giving some great views. As we walked back the way we’d come a Hobby teased us by swooping up into view and then down out of view behind a screen of reeds. As the cloud cleared and the sun began to shine a bit more convincingly, a number of Blue-tailed Damselflies began to flit between our legs. Walking back towards the car park, James spotted something, briefly, out in the wet grasslands which then ducked out of site. A moment’s panic ensued as he quickly erected the telescope and scanned...a pair of Common Cranes! As we watched, the cranes came out into full view and we were able to take it in turns to drink in views of these majestic birds through the telescope.