Wind and Wind Wave Sediment Transpor T in Large Lakes And
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Chapter 14. Northern Shelf Region
Chapter 14. Northern Shelf Region Queen Charlotte Sound, Hecate Strait, and Dixon canoes were almost as long as the ships of the early Spanish, Entrance form a continuous coastal seaway over the conti- and British explorers. The Haida also were gifted carvers nental shelfofthe Canadian west coast (Fig. 14.1). Except and produced a volume of art work which, like that of the for the broad lowlands along the northwest side ofHecate mainland tribes of the Kwaluutl and Tsimshian, is only Strait, the region is typified by a highly broken shoreline now becoming appreciated by the general public. of islands, isolated shoals, and countless embayments The first Europeans to sail the west coast of British which, during the last ice age, were covered by glaciers Columbia were Spaniards. Under the command of Juan that spread seaward from the mountainous terrain of the Perez they reached the vicinity of the Queen Charlotte mainland coast and the Queen Charlotte Islands. The Islands in 1774 before returning to a landfall at Nootka irregular countenance of the seaway is mirrored by its Sound on Vancouver Island. Quadra followed in 1775, bathymetry as re-entrant troughs cut landward between but it was not until after Cook’s voyage of 1778 with the shallow banks and broad shoals and extend into Hecate Resolution and Discovery that the white man, or “Yets- Strait from northern Graham Island. From an haida” (iron men) as the Haida called them, began to oceanographic point of view it is a hybrid region, similar explore in earnest the northern coastal waters. During his in many respects to the offshore waters but considerably sojourn at Nootka that year Cook had received a number modified by estuarine processes characteristic of the of soft, luxuriant sea otter furs which, after his death in protected inland coastal waters. -
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: Call 321-255-0212, Ext
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: call 321-255-0212, ext. 2) Marine Links relevant to East Central Florida Buoy 41010 It is hoped that this buoy, which went adrift in February, will be redeployed by mid to late September. Additional Marine Observations I’ve added a web page that has most of the marine observations along the east coast. http://www.srh.noaa.gov/mlb/?n=marob Note that wind/wave data became available at Sebastian Inlet via the National Data Buoy Center earlier this year. There are also some web cams with wind data. One, at Jensen Beach, has wave data too. Upwelling Some on again, off again upwelling occurred over the continental shelf this summer. This is not unusual. South to southeast winds (near shore parallel) are the primary cause of periodic upwelling. In some years, these winds are persistent and stronger than normal, which produces more prolific upwelling. In 2003, water temps in the upper 50s occurred in mid August at Daytona Beach! Typically the upwelling diminishes by late August or September. Nearshore Wave Prediction System We will soon upgrade our nearshore wave model (SWAN) to the Nearshore Wave Prediction System (NWPS). One enhancement is that Gulf Stream data will be incorporated back into the wave model. This will allow us to give better estimates for the position of the west wall of the Gulf Stream. The wave model will again be able to generate higher wave heights in the Gulf Stream during northerly wind surges. Hopefully, this functionality will be ready by Fall when cold fronts start moving through again. -
Circulation-Wave Coupling with a Wave Parameterization for the Idealized California Coastal Region
Circulation-Wave Coupling With a Wave Parameterization For the Idealized California Coastal Region Le Ly and Curt Collins Dept. of Oceanography Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93043 1. Introduction atmospheric model), POM (Princeton Ocean Momentum and energy transfers across the air- Model; Blumberg and Mellor, 1987), and WAM sea interface under realistic ocean conditions are wave model (Wilczak et al., 1999), and an important not only in theoretical studies, but also atmosphere-POM-WAM for the Mediterranean in many applications including marine region (Lionello et al., 1999). atmospheric and oceanic forecasts and climate Based on a new concept of oceanic turbulence modeling on all scales. Surface breaking waves and a wave breaking condition of the linear wave are believed to be an important supplier of theory, a surface wave parameterization is turbulent energy besides shear production of the developed and presented. This wave classical turbulence theory. Waves contain a parameterization with wave-dependent roughness considerable amount of momentum and energy, is tested against available data on wave- and they redistribute these quantities over great dependent turbulence dissipation, roughness distances. Wind waves supply energy for length, drag coefficient, and momentum fluxes turbulence due to breaking. Ocean waves strongly using a coupled air-wave-sea model. We also effect the air-sea system on all scale. A part of the present a circulation-wave coupling study using a energy and momentum is transferred directly wave dependent roughness (Ly and Garwood, from the atmosphere to ocean currents while 2000) and taking the wind-wave-turbulence- another part is transferred to surface waves. The current relationship into account. -
The Response of the Upper Ocean to Solar Heating II
Quart. J. R. Met. Soc. (1986). 112, pp. 29-42 55 1.465.553:ss 1.365.7 1 The response of the upper ocean to solar heating. 11: The wind-driven current By J. D. WOODS and V. STRASS 1n.Ytitrtt ,fuer Meereskunde an der Unioer,rituet Kiel, F. R. G. (Received 28 February lYX?: revised 30 July 1985) SUMMARY The current profile generated by a steady wind stress is disturbed by the diurnal variation of mixed layer depth forced by solar heating. Momentum diffused deep at night is abandoned to rotate incrtially during the day when the mixed layer is shallow and then re-entrained next night when it deepens. The resulting variation of current profile has been calculated with a one-dimcnsional model in which power supply to turhulencc determines the profile of eddy viscosity. The resulting variations of current velocity at fixed depths are so complicated that it is not surprising that current meter nieasurenients have seldom yielded the classical Ekmaii solution. However, the progressive vector diagrams do exhibit an Ekman-like response (albeit with superimposed inertial disturbances) suggesting that the model might be tested by tracking drifters designed to follow the flow at fixed depths. The inertial rotation of the current in the diurnal thermocline leads to a diurnal jet. the dynamical equivalent of the nocturnal jet in the atmospheric boundary layer over land. The role of inertial currents in deepening the mixed layer is clarified, leading to proposals for improving the turbulence parametrizations used in models of the upper ocean. The model predicts that the diurnal thermocline contains two layers of persistent vigorous turbulence separated by a thicker band of patchy turbulence in otherwise laminar flow. -
Turbulent Flow Structure in Experimental Laboratory Wind
Coastal Engineering 64 (2012) 1–15 Contents lists available at SciVerse ScienceDirect Coastal Engineering journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng Turbulent flow structure in experimental laboratory wind-generated gravity waves Sandro Longo a,⁎, Dongfang Liang b, Luca Chiapponi a, Laura Aguilera Jiménez c a Department of Civil Engineering, University of Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze, 181/A, 43100 Parma, Italy b Department of Engineering, Trumpington Street, Cambridge CB2 1PZ, UK c Instituto Interuniversitario de Investigación del Sistema Tierra, Universidad de Granada, Avda. del Mediterráneo s/n, 18006 Granada, Spain article info abstract Article history: This paper is the third part of a report on systematic measurements and analyses of wind-generated water Received 1 December 2011 waves in a laboratory environment. The results of the measurements of the turbulent flow on the water Received in revised form 7 February 2012 side are presented here, the details of which include the turbulence structure, the correlation functions, Accepted 8 February 2012 and the length and velocity scales. It shows that the mean turbulent velocity profiles are logarithmic, and Available online xxxx the flows are hydraulically rough. The friction velocity in the water boundary layer is an order of magnitude smaller than that in the wind boundary layer. The level of turbulence is enhanced immediately beneath the Keywords: fl 2 Free surface turbulence water surface due to micro-breaking, which re ects that the Reynolds shear stress is of the order u*w. The ver- Wind-generated waves tical velocities of the turbulence are related to the relevant velocity scale at the still-water level. -
Download Download
I DEIA EDIÇÃO Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra Email: [email protected] URL: http//www.uc.pt/imprensa_uc Vendas online: http://livrariadaimprensa.uc.pt DIREÇÃO Maria Luísa Portocarrero Diogo Ferrer CONSELHO CIENTÍFICO Alexandre Franco de Sá | Universidade de Coimbra Angelica Nuzzo | City University of New York Birgit Sandkaulen | Ruhr ‑Universität Bochum Christoph Asmuth | Technische Universität Berlin Giuseppe Duso | Università di Padova Jean ‑Christophe Goddard | Université de Toulouse‑Le Mirail Jephrey Barash | Université de Picardie Jerôme Porée | Université de Rennes José Manuel Martins | Universidade de Évora Karin de Boer | Katholieke Universiteit Leuven Luís Nascimento |Universidade Federal de São Carlos Luís Umbelino | Universidade de Coimbra Marcelino Villaverde | Universidade de Santiago de Compostela Stephen Houlgate | University of Warwick COORDENAÇÃO EDITORIAL Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra CONCEÇÃO GRÁFICA Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra IMAGEM DA CAPA Raquel Aido PRÉ ‑IMPRESSÃO Margarida Albino PRINT BY KDP ISBN 978‑989‑26‑1971‑2 ISBN DIGITAL 978‑989‑26‑1972‑9 DOI https://doi.org/10.14195/978‑989‑26‑1972‑9 Projeto CECH‑UC: UIDB/00196/2020 ‑ Centro de Estudos Clássicos e Humanísticos da Universidade de Coimbra © JULHO 2020, IMPRENSA DA UNIVERSIDADE DE COIMBRA RELENDO O PARMÉNIDES DE PLATÃO REVISITING PLATO’S PARMENIDES ANTÓNIO MANUEL MARTINS MARIA DO CÉU FIALHO (COORDS.) (Página deixada propositadamente em branco) In memoriam Samuel Scolnicov (Página deixada propositadamente em branco) Í NDICE Prefácio, Maria do Céu Fialho, António Manuel Martins .................. 9 Introdução, A. M. Martins ................................................................ 11 The ethical dimension of Plato’s Parmenides, Samuel Scolnicov .... 27 ”El engañoso dialogo de Platón consigo mismo en la primera parte del Parménides”, Néstor Luis Cordero ............................... -
Determination of Wave Characteristics
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping Determination of Wave Characteristics February 2019 Requirements for the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Risk Mapping, Assessment, and Planning (Risk MAP) Program are specified separately by statute, regulation, or FEMA policy (primarily the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping). This document provides guidance to support the requirements and recommends approaches for effective and efficient implementation. Alternate approaches that comply with all requirements are acceptable. For more information, please visit the FEMA Guidelines and Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping webpage (https://www.fema.gov/guidelines-and-standards-flood-risk-analysis-and- mapping). Copies of the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping policy, related guidance, technical references, and other information about the guidelines and standards development process are all available here. You can also search directly by document title at https://www.fema.gov/library. Wave Determination February 2019 Guidance Document 88 Page iii Document History Affected Section or Subsection Date Description First Publication February Initial version of new transformed guidance. The content was 2019 derived from the Guidelines and Specifications for Flood Hazard Mapping Partners, Procedure Memoranda, and/or Operating Guidance documents. It has been reorganized and is being published separately from the standards. Wave Determination February 2019 Guidance Document 88 Page iv Table of Contents 1.0 Overview -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch. 1 Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes: J. Wright, A. Colling, & D. Park: Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford UK, 1999, 2nd Edition, 227 pp. AdOc 4060/5060 Spring 2013 Types of Waves Classifiers •Disturbing force •Restoring force •Type of wave •Wavelength •Period •Frequency Waves transmit energy, not mass, across ocean surfaces. Wave behavior depends on a wave’s size and water depth. Wind waves: energy is transferred from wind to water. Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, & reflect from solid objects. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave: i.e. waves of moving energy traveling in one direction along a surface, where particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes. Free waves move independently of the generating force: wind waves. In forced waves the disturbing force is applied continuously: tides Parts of an ocean wave •Crest •Trough •Wave height (H) •Wavelength (L) •Wave speed (c) •Still water level •Orbital motion •Frequency f = 1/T •Period T=L/c Water molecules in the crest of the wave •Depth of wave base = move in the same direction as the wave, ½L, from still water but molecules in the trough move in the •Wave steepness =H/L opposite direction. 1 • If wave steepness > /7, the wave breaks Group Velocity against Phase Velocity = Cg<<Cp Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development •Waves originate in a “sea”area •A fully developed sea is the maximum height of waves produced by conditions of wind speed, duration, and fetch •Swell are waves -
Swell and Wave Forecasting
Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting • Motivation • Terminology • Wave Formation • Wave Decay • Wave Refraction • Shoaling • Rouge Waves 30 Motivation • In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related killer. More lives are lost to surf-related accidents every year in Hawaii than another weather event. • Between 1993 to 1997, 238 ocean drownings occurred and 473 people were hospitalized for ocean-related spine injuries, with 77 directly caused by breaking waves. 31 Going for an Unintended Swim? Lulls: Between sets, lulls in the waves can draw inexperienced people to their deaths. 32 Motivation Surf is the number one weather-related killer in Hawaii. 33 Motivation - Marine Safety Surf's up! Heavy surf on the Columbia River bar tests a Coast Guard vessel approaching the mouth of the Columbia River. 34 Sharks Cove Oahu 35 Giant Waves Peggotty Beach, Massachusetts February 9, 1978 36 Categories of Waves at Sea Wave Type: Restoring Force: Capillary waves Surface Tension Wavelets Surface Tension & Gravity Chop Gravity Swell Gravity Tides Gravity and Earth’s rotation 37 Ocean Waves Terminology Wavelength - L - the horizontal distance from crest to crest. Wave height - the vertical distance from crest to trough. Wave period - the time between one crest and the next crest. Wave frequency - the number of crests passing by a certain point in a certain amount of time. Wave speed - the rate of movement of the wave form. C = L/T 38 Wave Spectra Wave spectra as a function of wave period 39 Open Ocean – Deep Water Waves • Orbits largest at sea sfc. -
The Wind-Wave Climate of the Pacific Ocean
The Centre for Australian Weather and Climate Research A partnership between CSIRO and the Bureau of Meteorology The wind-wave climate of the Pacific Ocean. Mark Hemer, Jack Katzfey and Claire Hotan Final Report 30 September 2011 Report for the Pacific Adaptation Strategy Assistance Program Department of Climate Change and Energy Efficiency [Insert ISBN or ISSN and Cataloguing-in-Publication (CIP) information here if required] Enquiries should be addressed to: Mark Hemer Email. [email protected] Distribution list DCCEE 1 Copyright and Disclaimer © 2011 CSIRO To the extent permitted by law, all rights are reserved and no part of this publication covered by copyright may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means except with the written permission of CSIRO. Important Disclaimer CSIRO advises that the information contained in this publication comprises general statements based on scientific research. The reader is advised and needs to be aware that such information may be incomplete or unable to be used in any specific situation. No reliance or actions must therefore be made on that information without seeking prior expert professional, scientific and technical advice. To the extent permitted by law, CSIRO (including its employees and consultants) excludes all liability to any person for any consequences, including but not limited to all losses, damages, costs, expenses and any other compensation, arising directly or indirectly from using this publication (in part or in whole) and any information or material contained in it. Contents -
Wind-Induced Mixing of Buoyant Plumes
WIND-INDUCED MIXING OF BUOYANT PLUMES Report NO SR 78 March 1986 Registered Office: Hydraulics Research Limited, Wallingford. Oxfordshire OX10 8BA. Telephone: 0491 35381. Telex: 848552 This report describes work funded by the Department of the Environment under Research Contract PECD 7/6/61, for which the DOE nominated officer was Dr R P Thorogood. It is published on behalf of the Department of the Environment but any opinions expressed in this report are not necessarily those of the funding Department. The work was carried out by Dr A J Cooper in the Tidal Engineering Department of Kydraulics Research, Wallingford, under the management of Mr M F C Thorn. 0 Crown copyright 1986 Published by permission of the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office ABSTRACT In the absence of wind a buoyant plume of effluent discharged to the sea some distance from the shoreline is most frequently swept nearly parallel to the coast by the tidal currents. The main reason for a surface plume to approach the beach is if there is a wind blowing onshore. Although the wind has this adverse effect of allowing the effluent to reach the shore it tends at the same time to cause additional mixing so reducing the pollution risk. It is important in planning outfalls to know the extent of this extra mixing. The processes causing plume dilution from outfall to shore are first reviewed in the absence of wind. The presence of a wind is found to cause extra mixing by two important physical processes. The first is the entrainment of ambient water into the plume caused by the turbulence in the plume induced by the wind.