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A Guide to the Glens of Antrim Glenariff Glen

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A Guide to the Glens of Antrim Glenariff Glen A GUIDE TO CONTENTS 03 Introduction 31 Wildlife 04 A landscape of Fire and Ice 32 Walking & Cycling in the Glens 06 A landscape of Mists and Myths 33 The Nine Glens of Antrim 34 Caring for the Glens Journey through the Glens 35 Background Reading 08 From Larne to the Glens 10 Glenarm & Glencloy 14 Glenariff & Glenballyeamon 18 Glenaan, Glencorp & Glendun 22 Over the Hills to Ballycastle 24 Glenshesk & Glentaisie 28 Ballycastle 02 | A guide to the Glens of Antrim Glenariff Glen The spectacular Causeway Coastal Route, hugging the cliffs and coves of the north eastern coastline of Ireland is ‘the Essential Irish Journey’ - a very special trip not to be hurried. Gasp at the spectacular scenery and take time to immerse yourself in one of the renowned Glens of Antrim. These nine famous glens, endowed of middle glens - first Glenariff, another, more hidden landscape of with evocative names and blessed above the village of Waterfoot, mists and myths, of legends and with a diversity of landscape are and Glenballyeamon behind the folklore and tales of giants, fairies also rich in history, in folklore and coastal town of Cushendall, and and other wonderful creatures. in the natural beauty that is a second, Glenaan, Glencorp and Come and explore them all. world away from the frantic bustle Glendun, leading down to the of modern life. village of Cushendun. Travelling over the hills to Ballycastle, the The aim of this guidebook is to two northern glens are Glenshesk take you on a leisurely journey and Glentaisie, both looking out through these enchanting glens, over the waters of Moyle to the beginning at the port of Larne and island of Rathlin. finishing at the seaside resort of Ballycastle. For ease of description Entwined with the rich history and the glens have been divided into the traditions of the communities four groups; the southern glens within the glens is the constant comprising Glenarm and Glencloy, sense of a dual landscape; one meeting the sea at the settlements of breathtaking natural drama of Glenarm and Carnlough and beauty that opens up as you respectively. Then two clusters negotiate the hills and bends and A guide to the Glens of Antrim | 03 1 2 1 Deserted village of Galboly 2 View from Lurigethan 3 3 Tievebulliagh in snow with Fairy Tree in foreground Water, fire and ice were the original architects of the Glens of Antrim. Ancient sea sediments became retreated towards Scotland as this former land bridges or narrow sea mudstones, clays and chalk, and long cold period declined between routes, about 8,000 years ago. earth movements raised these 20,000 and 10,000 years ago. The Since then, human activities have to become hills and cliffs. About gouging of the ice scooped out modified the landscape to create 60 million years ago, volcanic deep valleys where geological moorland, forest, small farms and eruptions spread lavas in thick faulting had already created settlements, now bounded by a layers which cooled to form the weaknesses and jumbled the rocks. bold coast road built by glensmen dark basalt rock that is evident between 1832 and 1842. today, capping the brilliant Changes in sea and land levels white chalk. took place, as melting ice added The building of the Antrim huge quantities of water to the Coast Road greatly improved On this sandwich cake of rocks, sea, and the land rose slowly, communications for the people giant hands pressed down on the released from a great weight of of the glens and made travel for land to leave imprints, like long ice. Slippage and settlement put visitors less hazardous. Before fingers radiating seawards from the final touches to the land, the road was built, a narrow and high ground inland. Those giant leaving opportunities for plants to rough track passed through the and heavy hands were glaciers, become established. Grazing and wooded slopes above the coast originating in a great thickness predatory animals soon followed, and Highwaymen, probably based of ice, and their imprints became and Stone Age people arrived on at the now deserted village of today’s glens. The ice eventually this north-east coast, possibly by Galboly, tucked out of sight above 04 | A guide to the Glens of Antrim Garron Point, were reported to rob and murder travellers, especially between Carnlough and Cushendall. It was also at a wooded spot not far from Garron Point that the last wolf in Ireland was reportedly shot in 1712. The Coast Road therefore and the country railroads that followed, revolutionised access to the glens for day-trippers and other travellers keen to absorb the magical atmosphere of a region for so long sheltered from the outside world. A guide to the Glens of Antrim | 05 1 2 1 Fairy Tree 2 Slemish in the mist Not so long ago many more people lived in the glens than do today. These communities worked the headaches without even needing nature), left to replace a kidnapped land, fi shed the coastal waters physical contact with their patients human child. A more benevolent and entertained themselves with to effect a cure. Some are said fairy, the small and hairy but very the occasional ‘ceili’, (pronounced to survive today, so if you have a friendly Grogoch, features in many caylee), a tradition of gathering in headache... folk stories particularly from the each other’s homes to swap news, northern glens and Rathlin Island. listen to music, sing and enjoy the The Fairy Family craic of story-telling. Of course, many of the old stories The Folklore of Trees also talked of fairies and other There has always been a strong Many of the stories told in these supernatural beings such as association in the glens between days dealt in the currency of magic. Leprechauns, Banshees, Sheeries the hawthorn tree and fairies. People talked of the curse that and the Pooka - the most feared Small, gnarled hawthorns, often of accounted for a failed harvest or of all, a vindictive fairy, sometimes great age, survive on slopes and in an outbreak of disease while some appearing as a horse, an eagle, fi elds where other obstructions to people, it was believed, had the or in the guise of the bogeyman the plough have long since been power to put a curse or ‘blink’ on himself. Tales also exist of pipers removed. Stories abound of the cattle, preventing them from giving being led away, condemned misfortunes that have befallen milk. Others had the gift of charms. forever to entertain the fairies, those foolish enough to cut down They could cure ailments such as and of ‘changelings’ - unwanted a ‘skeoch’, as they are known, eg warts, sprains, burns and migraine fairy children, (often of a grumpy someone struck dumb or even a 06 | A guide to the Glens of Antrim Close to the head of Glencloy and Glenarm, lies Slemish Mountain where Saint Patrick herded sheep as a boy. man’s head turned back-to-front! A sprinkling of folk stories and Twigs of hazel are favoured by tales of strange events are water diviners and noted for included in this guidebook and providing protection against while you may be sceptical, when mischievous fairies, (tying a hazel mist curls up the glens, or low branch to a horse for example, cloud distorts the landscape you discourages fairies from taking the can, almost, believe anything. animal). Alder, on the other hand is feared for harbouring water spirits and the ash is said to be the fi rst tree that lightning will strike, and should be avoided in a storm. The survival of beliefs and traditions within the glens continues to enrich the cultural heritage of the area, and, although not everyone will admit to believing in fairies, few would dare to cut down a hawthorn tree. A guide to the Glens of Antrim | 07 1 2 1 Carnfunnock Country Park 2 Ballygally Head 3 4 3 Ballygally Castle I 4 Black Arch I Lady Isabella Shaw, Ghost of Ballygally Castle Journey through the Glens Larne is known as the ‘Gateway to Ulster’ Today’s visitors arriving by ferry for America and in 1872 regular raised beaches. Passing through come ashore on a strip of land sailings were established between the famous landmark of the Black known as The Curran, where Larne and Stranraer. Arch just north of Larne, there is an archaeologists in 1935 discovered underground sea tunnel where the Larne to Glenarm flint implements from a Stone Age foamy turbulence of the water gives Heading north from Larne, where settlement of around 8000 years this the name Devil’s Churn. Local the road drops down to the coast, a ago. Larne’s long human history is legend recalls a drunken piper who plaque on a plinth by the seashore a mere blink in time, as evidenced lost his way in this tunnel, and still railings is the monument to William by fossils discovered along the plays his pipes at a distant house Bald, who engineered the Antrim adjoining coast, including a 200 where the tunnel is said to emerge. Coast Road, and the men of the million year old Icthyosaur - the glens who built it between A few miles north of Larne is name means ‘fish lizard’ - found at 1832 and 1842. Carnfunnock Country Park, a nearby Waterloo Bay in 1999. place to stop off for walks, The road was - and is - quite an The port of Larne is well used to camping and caravanning. engineering feat. Bordered on one comings and goings. In 1327 King side by the North Channel and on Rounding Ballygally Head, a Robert the Bruce of Scotland landed the other, for much of its length, by prominent volcanic plug, there is a here, 1639 saw the arrival of the cliffs of white chalk and dark basalt, small rocky promontory crowned first of many Scottish Covenanters, it occupies a narrow ribbon of land by the remains of a stone building.
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