CIRCULAR SAVVY Techniques for in the Round by Kathryn Mates

Circular knitting or knitting in the round is a technique that enables stitch worked flat has both knits and purls. Tension often varies be­ us to create seamless circles and tubes of knitting. Uses fo r circu­ tween knit and purl stitches and for that reason, the ga uge swatch lar knitting are numerous. Hats, bags, socks and mittens are often needs tb match the way the actual project will be worked. worked in the round. Many sweaters are designed for circular knit­ ting especially multi-colored and Scandinavian garments. Here is a short-cut technique for working a swatch fo r a cir­ Think about necklines on pullovers and armholes on vests. These cular project. Using a double point needle, cast on the number of finishing bands are also commonly worked in the round. And let's stitches needed to give a width of about 5 inches. How many stitch­ not overlook circular shawls, tablecloths and doilies. es would be needed? Consult the ya rn band for a recommended needle size and gauge as a start. Calculate the number required for Circular knitting presents several benefits. The right side of the a 4 inch width and add a few extra stitches. Starting on the right garment faces the knitter so that stitch and color patterns are easy side, knit the first row th en slide the stitches to the o th er end of the to see. To work Stockinette stitch, all stitches are knit, no purls are needle without turning the work. Leave a long, loose float on the required. No seam s are needed, eliminating bulkiness, especially back and then knit the next row with the right side facing. Contin­ fo r smaller items such as socks or mittens. ue in this manner until the swatch is about 4 in ches in length and bind off. Trim the floats in the back and measure a 4 inch width in TOOLS TO USE the center of the swatch. Count the number of stitches and divide Circul ar knitting can be done using four or five double pointed by 4 to get the stitches per inch. The edge stitches may be a bit loose needles or a circular needle. Double pointed needles, as the name because of the stranding, but the center of the swatch should give indica tes, have points on both ends. The most common range of an accurate ga uge for a pattern wo rked entirely on the right side. lengths is 4" to 14". They usually come 4 or 5 needles to a package. Circular needles also com e in a variety of lengths. Circular needles CIRCULAR TECHNIQUES have a hard tip at each end and a flexible coil in between. Lengths The basic idea of circul ar knitting is that the work is not turned, are measured from tip to tip. Most common lengths for circular but is worked continuously in a forward direction. This creates a needles range from 16" to 32" although some can be as small as spi ral of stitches. The last stitch of the round is higher than the fi rst 9" and as long as 60". Some manufacturers have kits that enable stitch of the round. This spiraling characteristic of working in the the knitter to change the size and length of the circular needles by round requires a few special considerations. attaching the desired needle tip onto a separate cable. The length of the needle should be less than the circumference of When using double point needles, cast on to one needle if possible. the project. The stitches should sl ide easily around the needles. Use a point protector or w bber band to prevent stitches from fall­ Do uble pointed needles work well for small items such as socks or ing off the end. Then distribute the stitches evenly to the two or mittens. A circular needle 16" long is good to use for hats. A 29" or three other needles. Move the stitches by slipping them purlwise 32" needle would be appropriate for an adult sweater. Some pro­ to an em pty needle. The reason for doing the cast on this way is to jects may require both a circular needle and double points. A hat, maintain an even tension. Using multiple needles can ca use twisted for example, may begin on a 16" circular, but the knitter may need or stretched stitches where the needles join. Whether using double to change to double pointed needles as the top shaping decreases points or a circular needle, make sure to place a marker to identify the number of stitches to a point where they no longer fit easily. the first stitch of the round.

GAUGE Most pattern instructions for circular knitting include the phrase Determining gauge for a circular project requires a gauge swatch "Join round being careful not to twist" as part of the cast on direc­ worked in the round. Working back and forth on a fl at piece will tions. Whether you are using double points or circul ars, make sure result in an inaccurate gauge measurement. For example, stocki­ the loops of the cast on stitches are all facing upward on the top nette stitch worked in the round has all knit stitches. Stockinette of the needle.

58 Cast On • February- April 2009 Since circular knitting is really a spiral, an extra step is needed when joining a round to avoid an uneven "jog" on the cast on edge Keeping in mind that circular knitting is actually creating a spiral, at the joining point. Refer to swatch I. Notice the uneven edge be­ it is important to even out the edge after the last bound off sti tch. tween the last cast on stitch and the first stitch of the . This Refer to swatch 1 and notice how the last sti tch on the bound off "step" or "jog" occurs because the last stitch of the round is pulled edge is set higher th an the first bound off stitch. The process to upward by the first stitch of the next round. There arc several ways even out the edge is a simple one. After binding off the last stitch, to eliminate this on the cast on edge. trim the ya rn so that a 6 inch tail remains. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle into the first bound off stitch Cast on an extra stitch. When beginning the first round, work which will be one stitch to the left. Go under both loops of that the extra stitch together with the first stitch of th e round. stitch. Pull the through and then insert the tapestry needle back into the center of the last bound off stitch. This is the spot Cast on the required number of stitches. vVhen beginning the that the ta il originally came out after the last bind off. Pull the tail first round exchange the last cast o n stitch and the first cast on to even out the edge then weave in the tail as usual. Swatches 2 and stitch. This maneuver is like working a cable or crossed stitch. 3 illustrate this technique. Slip th e last cast on stitch to an empty needle, work the first stitch of the round then work the stitch from the extra needle. Ladders You may encounter loose stitches when changing from one double Cast on an extra stitch. Slip the first cast on stitch to the right point needle to the next. See swatch 4 fo r an example. These "lad­ needle next to the last cast on stitch. Pass the last cast on stitch ders" are caused by stretching the yarn between the two needles over the first stitch and move the stitch back to the left needle at the joining point. There are several possible solutions to this and begin the first round. problem.

Use the cast on tail to connect the first and last cast on stitches. When workin g with double points make sure the first few stitch­ Thread the cast on tail onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle es worked from the new needle are pulled tightly. from back to front around the base of the fi rst cast on stitch, then from front to back around the base of the la st cast on stitch. the tail in this manner is a good way to smooth the edge regardless of which technique above is used to join the round. continued 011 page 60

swatch 1 swatch 3

swatch 5 swatch 6 swatch 7 swatch 8

www.TKGA.com 59 continued from page 59 the stranded color pattern were worked continuously in the round. The yarn tails at the top and bottom indicate the beginning of the round. Notice how both the garter stitch and color pattern are d is­ vVhen the first stitch is a knit stitch, bring the new needle under­ torted at the transition from one round to the next. Swatch 7 was neath the last needle. When the first stitch is a purl stitch, bring worked using the technique of slipping the stitch of each round. the new needle above the last needle. This tends to tighten the The stitch marker indicates the start of the first round. Both the stitch and requires less yarn between the stitches. garter stitch and the color pattern come together evenly.

Working with 5 needles instead of 4 is also helpful. The angle \'Vorking cables can successfully use the sam e technique. Most between the needles is wider and places less tension o n the yarn cables are vertical patterns that do not extend past the end of the at the transition points. round. The spiral nature of circular knitting does not cause a prob­ lem for these types of cables. So me cables, however, are all-over Stripes and Color Changes patterns such as a lattice or trellis design. This type of design is very The spiral nature of circular knitting creates a challenge when attractive on a sock or hat, but to be effective, the design must be working with colors in the round. The "jog" becomes obvious uninterrupted and flow smoothly around the circumference of the when changing colors to create striped patterns. Refer to swatch 5 item. Swatch 8 shows an example of a lattice design worked with for an example of the color jogs that occur when creating stripes in the slipped stitch technique at the beginning of each round. The the round. The last stitch worked with the new color is high er than stitch marker at the lower edge shows the beginning of the initial the fi rst stitch of the round. The remed y is to make the stitches at round. The process is the same as the Fair Isle example: the beginni ng of the round and the end of the round adjacent to each other. Join the cast on row by slipping the first stitch purlwise. Slip stitches gently using the tips of the needle to avoid stretching. Begin with the new color and work to the end of the round. The slipped stitch represents the first stitch of the pattern. Place a marker to identify the start of the next round. Before starting the next round knit in the row below by picking up the right side of the sti tch in the row below (it will be in the Work the pattern around to the stitch marker. You will have old color) and placing it on the le ft needle. Kni t it together with worked one stitch in the next pattern repeat at th is point. Re­ the next new color stitch. move the marker, slip the next stitch purlwise, replace the stitch marker an d continue working the pattern to the end of the Move the stitch marker after the stitch just knit. The stitch knit round. Repeat this step fo r the desired length of the pattern. in the row below becomes the last stitch in the rou nd . Keep in mind that the beginning of a round and the beginning of a pattern repeat will not always occur at the same point. Weave the yarn tails carefully to pull the tail of the original color downward and the new color upward. Working a cable across the beginning of a round requires some attentio n. The rule to follow is that the stitch to the right of the Textured and Color Patterns stitch marker is a slipped stitch and will be worked at the end Most Fair Isle patterns are traditionally worked in the round. Th e of that round . That stitch may have been moved as part of a technique used for smoothing out the edge of a color stripe is use­ cable crossing or just slipped in its original place. fu l fo r solid colors; textured patterns and color patterns require an even t ransition at the end of the round in order to maintain Knitting in the round does not need to be intimidating. It opens an even stitch pattern. Working a spiral causes pattern distortion up the world of socks, mittens, bags and many other interesting since the adjacent stitch is on row below. An article by Cindy projects. W ith so many textured and color patterns available, knit­ Sauerwald in Vogue Knitting, Spring/Summer 2000 issue deals ters need not be restricted to plain stockinette stitch when work­ with this p roblem. Her solution is to slip the first stitch of each ing in the round. These tech niques present the knitter with many round. The beginning of the next round then shifts one stitch to choices to produce some unique and elegant results. the left. This technique lowers the last stitch of the round to allow the beginning and end of the round to come together at the right level.

Refe r to swatches 6 and 7 for an example of textured and color pat­ terns worked in the round. On swatch 6 the garter stitch edges and

60 Cast On • February - April 2009