Issue 01. December 2013 CHINESE HIDE AND SEEK THE SECREAT SOURCES FOR TRAVELING IN

胡同 CULTURE culture and history

HIDDEN famous hutong

FOOD, ACTIVITIES AND GIFT GUIDE

TIPS FOR HUTONG TRAVEL I SBN 978-1-56581-231-4 9 781565 812314 52250

CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 26 16 17

THE POTERRY WORKSHOP BOOK TEA CAFE YANDAIXIEJIE Ceramic workshop Open Hour: 2-10pm, Tue-Sun. Address: Yandai Xiejie, Xicheng , Beijing. Address: 23 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District, Telephone: 8403 6168 Subway Line: 2 Beijing Address: 4 Maoer Hutong, Dianmenwai Dajie, Dongcheng district Station: Gulou Dajie (preferably exit B), & approxi- mately 12 minutes walk

CONTENT 26

HUTONG SPECIAL HIGHLIGHT 1 Hutong sign Mail box Rickshaw HUTONG TRAVEL TIPS 4 4 major tips 5 THE SOUL OF BEIJING (courtyard) WUDAOYING Address: Wudaoying Hutong, Dong Cheng District, Beijing BEIJING HUTONG 7 Beijing Hutong 2 People say that the real culture of Beijing is the culture of the Hutong and Courtyards. How true that is. They attract more tourists from home and abroad than the high-rise buildings and large mansions.

HIDDEN FAMOUS HUTONGS 13 Yandaixiejie Wudaoying Hutong

CONNECT 23 Snack BEIJING HUTONG TOUR ON TRICYCLE CAB Activities and Gift guide Address: 4 Maoer Hutong, Dianmenwai Dajie, Dongcheng district. Mail Box for each House

SPECIAL HUTONG HIGHLIGHT Hutong sign | Mailbox | Rickshaw | Hutong

HUTONG SIGN The Name of Hutong

HUTONG SIGN House Number

Rickshaw

What Is a Hutong The Rickshaw

Hutong now means a lane or an , formed street, and a 9-meter-wide lane was named a The rickshaw is a traditional vehicle that was pullers will take you through the narrow lanes. Most by rows of siheyuan -a compound with buildings hutong. In fact, Beijing hutongs range from 40 popular in Beijing, Tianjin and Shanghai nearly a of the rickshaw pullers can give their passengers around a courtyard, where old Beijing residents centimeter to 10 meter wide. The longest has more hundred years ago. Now, modern rickshaw travel is detailed explanations on the history and culture lived. The word "hutong" originates from the word than 20 turns. an excellent way to experience old Beijing culture of Hutongs, though not all can this in English. There "hottog" which means "a well" in Mongolian, in Beijing hutongs are varied: in east-west or north- and Hutongs (alleyways). are also professional tourist guides who can speak ancient times villagers dug a well and then lived south direction, sloped, half or "blind hutongs", or There are thousands of Hutongs in Beijing. The English, Japanese and other foreign languages. around it.It was recorded that during the Yuan cul-de-sacs. rickshaws in Beijing are painted a golden yellow dynasty a 36-meter-wide road was called a color. After paying an agreed fee, the rickshaw standard street, a 18-meter-wide one was a small 1 HIGHTLIGHT CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 2 Bicycle gear HUTONG TRAVEL TIPS

1. Relation of Hutong and Siheyuan. Hutong and Siheyuan are inseparate. In one hand, Hutong refers to the alley formed by two lines of Siheyuan, the Chinese name of old Beijing residences, a kind of courtyard house. In the other hand, Hutong covers a general meaning of the neighborhood consisted by the alleys and Siheyuan buildings alongside. 2. Notice that common people's courtyard houses are different from those ones for tourist purposes. The tourist courtyards are usually the former residences of ancient celebrities, so they are spacious, well designed and beautiful while the common ones living by local people are generally one-room family houses -subdivided and shared by many households, cramped, one-storey Rickshaw Hutong tour with a tiny shed-like kitchen-conversion and often no private toilet, and the living conditions are basic at best. This is why hutong gives a feeling like a village. 3. Hutong's names Like streets, hutongs have their names. Some have had only one name since their establishment and others have had a few names throughout their history. Beijing was once a consumer city. A lot of hutong names are linked to the names of food. Some hutong names are connected to the names of the places, the temples, daily necessities, trades, light industry, plants, people's names and even government's organs. 4. Three good ways to wander around hutong on foot, bicycle, and rickshawpedicab. The famous Hutongs are located in the city center area, and most of the hotels, subway stations nearby offer bike rental service; also you are able to rent a bicycle right in the hutong area. Rickshaw ride around the hutong area has become a popular attraction. The Chinese style must be fresh for you, so very interesting. But remember to find a normal driver who is often certain uniformed and whose vehicle is hanging with a license plate. Nanluoguxiang Hhutong Cafe

A corner of Nanluoguxiang Door Number

3 TRAVEL TIPS CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 4 Door of Siheyuan Door of Siheyuan Siheyuan

The history of Siheyuan or courtyard house in Beijing can be traced back to more than 800 years ago when Beijing established its status as the capital city. As a kind of traditional Chinese historical object, Siheyuan represents the capital's architectural style. A siheyuan, in Chinese quadrangle, is a symmetrical enclosed rectangular space which takes the courtyard as its centre surrounded by four houses: a main house (typically facing to south), an opposite house, an eastern-wing house and a western-wing house. Siheyuan The siheyuan construction was built with regard to the principles which optimize the sun exposure, while offering a protection against the North winds, the former rules which match up to the location of the Chinese houses.The siheyuan was an outside space No honking sign in Hutong protected from the noise and from the dust of the street, also protected from intruders. It provided a complete intimacy reflecting the sense of intimate lifestyle in the mind of Chinese people always Wall screen keeping the family issues within the family, making business with reliable associates. The way in of the compound of houses is situated on the corner southeast. Before entering a siheyuan, one perceives the wall screen. This wall formerly guaranteed the intimacy when the big door of the main entrance was opened to welcome the visitors. To enter the siheyuan, the visitor had to by-pass the wall by the left. The siheyuan was the small world of the family. Most of the time, there were at least three trees, among which an evergreen, and a tree with flowers, lucky wise producing edible fruits. The siheyuan also contained beautiful stones and some water. There were flowers, and very often big bowls in which goldfish with spherical eyes swam lazily. Birds in a bamboo cage suspended in a shaded place completed the scene. Every siheyuan was separated from the following one by a door, flanked by a pair of stone lions on both sides. Sometimes, one had to reach the internal siheyuan by walking two or three steps organized THE SOUL OF BEIJING to a maximum sun exposure and the Confucian ethics. The size and the greatness of the siheyuan depended on the wealth, status and the number of Siheyuan -courtyard members of the family.

Door view of Siheyuan 5 THE SOUL OF BEIJING BEIJING HUTONG Culture | History | Beijing Hutong | Courtyard

Culture and History

China's capital may be racing towards the future at breakneck speed but sneak behind one of the city's glittering, ultra-modern tower blocks and you find a slice of old Beijing that seems to have been lost in time. Welcome to the hutong; centuries-old, tree-lined alleyways that are the true heartbeat of this unique city and a real-life link to its fascinating past. 7 CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 “People say that the real culture of Beijing is the culture of the Hutong and Courtyards.”

How true that is. They attract more tourists from now no more than 1,000 remain. Thus, protecting home and abroad than the high-rise buildings and them is an urgent problem for modern people. large mansions. The lanes have their own layout and structure, and Hutong is a Mongolian word meaning water well. when viewed from the air the combination of the At nine meters about 30 feet wide, it is the name lanes and courtyards resemble a chessboard with given to a lane or small street that originated delicate gardens, fine rockeries and ancient ruins during the Yuan Dynasty 1271to1368. Now they this makes them a wonder in the world. Because have become representatives of culture, of the cross interlacement of the lanes every thus it is the first choice for people who would houses connected to the other, making it easy for like to learn about the local history and culture.In local people to keep in touch with their neighbors. the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolians attached great Therefore, once one enters any of the lanes, one importance to water, so almost every community can feel the deep and warm relationships among in the city was designed around a well, which people, which is rarely found in this modern world. provided the daily water for the locals. Until now, In the twisted lanes one can experience the life one can still find dry wells in Hutongs. of the ancient Beijing people. The bathrooms and In the past, Beijing was composed of hundreds of public toilets can be found in these lanes. Shops sell courtyards around the , and these all kinds of goods that satisfy the local people's lanes stretched out in all four directions, connecting daily needs. It is just like a community. Gossiping in the different kinds of courtyards in the city. these lanes is a common scene as it is the main way Although originally formed in the Yuan Dynasty, for people to strengthen their relationship. These the building of the these developed fast during lanes have witnessed the development of Beijing. the Ming and Qing dynasties. Where there is such a lane, there is a story. In the Yuan Dynasty, there were about 29 The naming of these different lanes is very Hutongs, while in the Ming Dynasty 1368 to1644, interesting. In ancient times the names of them this number increased to 1,070. In the Qing were passed by word of mouth among people; Dynasty 1644 to1911, it grew to 2,076. It is said there were no signposts. It was not until the Ming that by 1949 there were as many as 3,250. But and Qing dynasties that the names were written with the passage of time, and the requirement for down gradually. Generally speaking, the naming city construction, the number of them has fallen methods can be categorized into ten kinds. dramatically. In 2003, only 1,500 were left, and Some main naming methods were to name them after the symbol construction in a lane, the local

Hutong8 9 CULTURE & HISTORY CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 language, the markets and the local positions. Siheyuan (Courtyard) Beijing's traditional courtyards For instance, the Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street, -siheyuan- still house many of the city's residents also called Yandai Xiejie, was named so because within the second ring road, which marks the limits it is not straight. Mamei Hutong was named of old Beijing. However, many of the siheyuan, after the old Beijing language. In later years the which consist of four rooms around a central yard, government changed their original names into are being torn down at present, and quite a large more formal ones, which sounds more refined. If proportion of those who have enjoyed courtyard one wants to know the original names of them, a living for generations have now moved to high-rise tour to these feature lanes should not be missed. blocks of flats in new residential areas. Of the more than 1,000 Hutongs left there The siheyuan is a typical form of ancient Chinese are some distinctive ones, attracting thousands architecture, especially in the north of China. of tourists from home and abroad. They are designed to make it as comfortable The longest one is the Dongjiaominxiang Hutong, as possible to live in a climate that is at times with a total length of 6.5 kilometers, lying inhospitable. For instance, the siheyuan are between Chang'an Avenue and East and West enclosed and inward facing to protect them from Qianmen Streets. The shortest one is the Yichi the harsh winter winds and the dust storms of Street, measuring about 25 meters. The Jiuwan spring. Their design also reflects the traditions Hutong, with about 13 turns, is the most tortuous of China, following the rules of feng shui and one and can easily make you lost. The narrowest the patriarchal, Confucian tenants of order and is the Qianshi Money Market Hutong, measuring heirarchy that were so important to society. about 30 to 40 meters, located in Zhubaoshi It is normal for the four rooms to be positioned Street outside the Qianmen Gate. The narrowest along the north-south, east-west axes. The room part is merely 40 centimeters wide, so when two positioned to the north and facing the south is people meet, they must turn sideways to pass considered the main house and would traditionally each other. The widest one is the Lingjing Hutong have accomodated the head of the family. The in . The one with the longest history rooms adjoining the main house are called " side is the Sanmiaojie Hutong, whose construction can houses" and were the quarters of the younger be traced back to the Liao Dynasty 907 to1125. generations or less important members of the Hutong In addition, there are many small, unique and family. The room that faces north is known as the well decorated shops hidden in these lanes, "opposite house" and would generally be where especially in Nanluo Guxiang. There is a famous the servants lived or where the family would restaurant called Pass by Bar in South Gong and gather to relax, eat or study. The gate to the Drum Lane, which is a gathering place for the courtyard is usually at the southeastern corner. local people and foreign backpackers. Yizhan, Normally, there is a screen-wall inside the gate so a themed bar in No. 30 Beixinqiao Toutiao (two that outsiders cannot see directly into the courtyard to three walking minutes from Beixinqiao subway and to protect the house from evil spirits. Outside station), is built based on an old courtyard. the gate of some large siheyuan, it is common to Apart from these special modern-style shops, find a pair of stone lions. The gates are usually there are some more traditional shops scattered painted vermilion and have large copper door in the lanes, recording the history of Chinese rings. All the rooms around the courtyard have life. In Mishi Hutong, a barbershop called large windows facing onto the yard and small Yunfeng: Cloud and Wind Barbershop, has windows high up on the back wall facing out onto been open since 1989, and all the equipment the street. Some do not even have back windows. in the shop was bought at that time, giving Some large compounds have two or more customers a feeling of traveling back in time. courtyards to house the extended families that were a mark of prosperity in ancient times. “Siheyuan line the small lanes, or hutongs, that make up most of the central part of the city.”

Hutong

11 CULTURE & HISTORY CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 HIDDEN HUTONGS Nanluoguxiang | Yandaixiejie | Houhai | Wudaoying

The fate of Beijing’s multitudinous hutongs is something of a controversial issue for both foreigners and locals alike. These historic areas of Beijing have endured explosive development projects over the last few years, some more agreeable than others. Areas such as Nanluoguxiang ,yandaixiejie, Houhai and Wudaoying are popular examples of hutongs that have undergone a "here, you can experience the partial facelift while retaining a strong sense of charm and character. special Hutong culture of Beijing. "

Nanluoguxiang (South Gong and Drum Lane)

It is an old lane renowned for its long history, Hutong culture, old. The sixteen side hutongs were built in the Yuan Dynasty too. specialty stores, and distinctive foods. It is 768 meters 2,519 Because of its layout, people also call it the Centipede Lane. feet long and 8 meters 26 feet wide. Its north end joins Gulou It was once named Humpback Lane Luoguo Xiang in the Ming Dong Dajie, and the south end is connected to Di'anmen Dong Dynasty 1368 to1644 and renamed to Gong and Drum Lane Dajie. There are eight parallel hutongs on each side of the old Luogu Xiang in the Qing Dynasty 1644-1911. The alley remains alley. These sixteen and the main lane were put on the first list more complete than other historical heritage sites in Beijing, of 25 historic and culturally protected areas in November 1990, witnessing the vicissitudes of many dynasties. by the local Municipal Government. Situated in the downtown It is like an old man who is telling an ancient legend about his past. area, it is convenient to reach. Here, you can experience the special Hutong culture of Beijing. It was built in the same period that the capital of the Yuan Dynasty 1271-1368, Dadu, was built, so it is about 800 years

CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 14 Notebook store

Ceramic workshop The Lottery workshop

Nanluogu Xiang Tips: Although a historic place, the culture here is full of innovation. It welcomes its guests with both an old appearance and a new 1. You'd better wear flat shoes -you can buy a pair combined culture of China and the West. Small, specialty boutiques welcome you. Le Tian Tao She at No.23 in it is a in the nearby shop and take them as a souvenir. pottery store where you can enjoy a coffee while admiring the 2. There is no parking in it. The best way to visit potters at their craft. You may even have a try and make your own piece of pottery. Many people come here for its creative here is on foot or by bicycle. You can rent bicycles at culture and artistic environment. Several art studios have been Houhai or . A tandem bicycle costs CNY20 established, and many movies and TV drama programs have “Discover the bar or the shop per hour and a regular bicycle is CNY10 per hour. A been filmed here too. CNY500 deposit for each bicycle is required. Now, there are 115 different shops. Most of the owners and managers are well educated and some of the shop assistants interesting, take a photograph, speak English fluently. If you want to see an authentic courtyard, you'd better come here Meals and snacks in this old lane are something else that will can not help to do that, because because this alley remains the most complete lane of traditional appeal to its visitors. The well known dining hall at No. 108 in it courtyard dwellings in Beijing. When you come here, you can is famous for its tasty pizza and Nepal-style drinks. Wenyu Nai the scene is so beautiful.” see the red lanterns hanging under the eaves. You may find a Lao is a time-honored specialty yoghurt shop located at No.49 in trace of ancient prosperous Beijing here. You can see the totally it. The shop makes many different types of the best yoghurts. At different styles of architecture. Compared with the grand red No.114, the western restaurant Yu Shi Ju Jin provides delicacies wall and golden colored roof of the Forbidden City, it has gray of Russian, Italian and Indian styles. Apart from these restaurants, walls and roofs that represent the folk culture. As it is close to there are many distinctive bars that are worth a visit, such as the Forbidden City, many royal families and officials lived here. Plastered 8 and Guo Ke -meaning Passerby that are very For example, the former residence of China's last empress, Wan popular among travelers. Rong, is in the Mao'er Hutong. In fact, a number of historical Walking on the tree-lined road along, experiencing the diverse celebrities lived in the alleys before, such as Qi Baishi, a great culture, you will receive more than you expect. It is a feast for artist, who is famous for his traditional Chinese painting. He lived Nanluoguxiang store your eyes, stomach, and mind at the same time. in Yu'er Hutong for some time.

CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 16 ‘‘In Yandai Xiejie, reproductions of original buildings may be criticized by some, but at least they exist next to remnants of authentic history.’’

Store in Yandaixiejie

Besides these featured stores, there are also many restaurants Yandaixiejie on the street. Here you can go to traditional Chinese restaurants- (Skewed Tobacco Pouch Street) -roasted lamb of Master , stewed pork liver (a traditional Beijing snack) of Master Yao, the Meiyuan Dairy, baked wheaten cake Yandai Xiejie in Chinese, it is one of the oldest hutong in Beijing. with donkey meat of Mr. Wang and wonton of Master Hou. Yandai is the name of a Chinese pipe that was traditionally sold Having tried the local snacks, one can go to the restaurants that on this street. Located in the Xicheng District, it is close to the provide delicacies of other regions. The Xingfumanman (Full of Shichahai and Houhai which are famous attractions in Beijing. It Happiness) Restaurant serves Taiwan snacks, such as Oyster Starch is 232 meters (253 yards) long with its east end on the Di'anmen Pancake, roasted sausage, round pastry, etc. The Thai Restaurant Street and the west to the Silver Ingot Bridge. Stepping into the and Ou Restaurant purvey Thai food. The Moon in the Lake Cafe street for about 50 meters, one would come to the south end of features Korean food and there are also many western restaurants the Dashibei Hutong, which goes to the Drum Tower West Avenue on the street. (Gulou Xidajie). Passing over the Silver Ingot Bridge one can reach the shichahai Bar Street. There are more than 20 cafe's and bars with different styles on the street, among which there is the Night of Yinding, According to a book that was published during the reign of the largest cafe in the Shichahai area. And others like the Red Emperor Qianlong of Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the street Mansion, the Sea Bar, the Show Place Cafe, the Wenshi Cafe, was initially named Drum Tower Xiejie and was changed into etc. One can have a cup of coffee when tired and enjoy the the present at the end of Qing Dynasty. It is recorded that beautiful scenery of Houhai Lake. Tasting the delicacies of there were many smoking pipe stores on the street in the Qing traditional Beijing style and those of other places, shopping Dynasty, among which there was one named Shuangshengtai. in the widely varying stores, one would best experience the The store owner put a 1.5-meter-high (5-feet-high) wooden uniqueness of the city. smoking pipe in front of the store as a sign. As time went by, the street was known by the whole city for its giant smoking pipe, hence its name. Some people also say that the street looks like a Why names Yandai Xiejie ? smoking pipe. It is recorded that there were many smoking pipe stores on the street in the Qing Dynasty, among which there was one named This old alley lost its commercial position in the 1950s and many Shuangshengtai. The store owner put a 1.5-meter-high (5-feet- buildings were changed to residential buildings, including the high) wooden smoking pipe in front of the store as a sign. As Temple--Guangfu Guan. In 2007, the street was time went by, the street was known by the whole city for its giant redeveloped to recover its historical features. Guangfu smoking pipe, so it was called Yandai Xiejie. Guan has become a tourist site and many reproductions of classic architecture were built on the street. In the buildings A Virtual Roaming along Yandai Xiejie are stores of Indian clothes, Miao costumes and accessories, 1. Featured Stores Tibet costumes, Lijiang crafts, Shaanxi pottery, badges and There are featured stores of Indian clothes, Miao costumes and quotations of Chairman Mao, etc. If you want to experience accessories, Tibet costumes, Lijiang crafts, Shaanxi pottery, Chinese commercial culture, the best way would be to buy some badges and quotations of Chairman Mao, etc. So buy some souvenirs and bargain with the shopkeepers. souvenirs and bargain with the shopkeepers.

Night scene of Yandaixiejie CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 18 2. Restaurants (Drum and Bell, 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, tel. 6593 5050. Besides these featured stores, there are also many restaurants on the street, which are all the traditional Chinese restaurants, Bars so outnumber restaurants that Houhai's dining opportunities including, roasted lamb of Master Ji, stewed pork liver of are sometimes overlooked. Try South Silk Road, artist Fang Master Yao, the Meiyuan Dairy, baked wheaten cake with Lijun's sleek, Yunnan-themed restaurant -19 Lotus Lane, tel. donkey meat of Mr. Wang and wonton of Master Hou. 6481 3261. Also, check out the handsomely rustic Nuage, with Vietnamese food, and Han Cang, offering Hakka specialties 3. Snacks -Shichahai East Bank, tel. 6404-2259. Or seek out one of the If you would like some snacks, the street also offer you. The countless neighborhood restaurants in the winding residential Xingfumanman "Full of Happiness" Restaurant serves Taiwan lanes that radiate from the lake and line the main shopping snacks, such as Oyster Starch Pancake, roasted sausage, round streets nearby. You can rent a bicycle for about 15 yuan an pastry, etc. The Thai Restaurant and Ou Restaurant purvey Thai hour or hire a rickshaw (prices vary wildly, negotiate hard), food. The Moon in the Lake Cafe features Korean food and though only a tourist would be seen dead in one. there are also many western restaurants on the street. Maybe that's why many of my 20-something friends don't go to Houhai anymore. The beers are expensive, they say as much as Houhai 50 yuan, or about 7 at the current exchange rate of 7 yuan to the dollar. The sidewalks bordering the lake have been carefully (Back Lack) landscaped, and some of the Ming-style facades rebuilt with a Hou Hai --pronounced HO-hi, is a manmade lake. To be young fastidiousness that would please Walt Disney. There is even a and hip in Beijing means knowing where the scene is. The scene, Starbucks, a sure sign that the scene has moved on. however, is a moving target, a rough beast that always seems But I don't want to leave just yet. The other night I passed a to have slouched on just as I get there. When I was young and shop that was being refitted as a bar. Sleek white surfaces Jiang Zemin was President, the place to party was the bar area everywhere. Indirect lighting. Wine racks built into the walls. The blossoming in the Sanlitun embassy district. It's still there, though place wasn't open yet, and there were no signs or names visible. many of the old haunts have been replaced by office towers. Can't wait to go back when it opens. These days, many expats and Beijingers looking for a good The night in Houhai is another ideal heaven gives you a different time end up in Houhai, a bustling entertainment area on a feeling compared to daytime. Lying in this picturesque lake gorgeous little lake just north of the Forbidden City, lined with surrounded by eateries, bars and shops is fun, you are staying in scores of hip-looking bars and bistros, complete with sofas on a Xanadu-like retreat which is a small town with river in mid of the sidewalks and hustlers touting the (genuinely terrific) view Beijing city. from upstairs terraces. Houhai (literally back sea) actually encompasses a trio of lakes including Qianhai, or front sea, and If you don't like to drink anything or to stay in one site, take a Xihai, or west sea that were dug in the 14th century to berth walk by the river is another wonderful active. Cool breeze kiss canal barges bound for the Forbidden City's Imperial Palace. your face while you are looking at the flashing lights sparking The district has long been a haven for artists, courtiers and from bars and the bustling crowds by river, listening to sound ordinary folks out for a lark, though until a few years ago, it of guitar floating from a far distance, you are in exposure was quiet as a Ming tomb. outside secular.

“the largest of three consecutive Houhai 5 Hao It is an elegant courtyard with tasteful decorated antique style, lakes lined with willow trees and unusual demeanor and larger space. Walk through in the big courtyard at night, maybe you want join the party of the bands surrounded by a rambling maze activities. Addition to various drink, western food, Thai food of hutongs, shops, and cafes.” and buffet here are delicate and delicious. Taste the private kitchens is a must, only the menu in a fan style will refresh you eyes. Nanyang spicy chicken packages, Pear walnut, Green Now live music pours from the open-fronted bars. For more Tea Chicken are recommended. Every night bands of different “the largest of three consecutive intimacy and very cool jazz, reserve a table at East Shore Live style show you a brilliant perfomance. A relaxed atmosphere of Jazz, No. 2 Shishahai Nanyan Road, next to , tel. humor makes you involved in the interaction on stage, and you '8610 8403 2131'. In winter, there is ice skating; in summer, can order songs you like showed by singers. lakes lined with willow trees and boat rides. You'll find free ballroom dancing on the plaza at Houhai's southern end. The bars range from vast and lively Site: 5 Houhai Beiyan, Shichahai,Xicheng District. surrounded by a rambling maze of (Buffalo Bar, 6 Lotus Lane, tel. 6617 2242) to dark and cozy Tel: 010-64061900 Opening hours: Daily 1pm-2midnight hutongs, shops, and cafes.”

Night scene of Houhai 19 HIDDEN HUTONGS CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 Hutongxieyi The Wudaoying Hutong was once a poor Hutong, like most of Maybe it more like a place to recollect rather than a bar, these small alleys typical of northeastern China, with small fruit you will feel the Hutong so closely in this bar at night, antique vendors, groceries and people living there in poverty for many building structures, ingenious moon gate, whole body of the years. Things have quickly evolved and nown the Wudaoying wooden sculpture, which the hall is a courtyard surrounded by Hutong is probably one of the nicests in Beijing. Everything has rooms, you feel back to the old night bar in Beijing, and then you been renovated and the place has now a unique appeal. Close back to Hutong where you desired. The Hutong bar seemed to to the Yonghegong. The Tibetan Lama Temple is just there, one recall something and describes the life in Hutonglane, including of the main temples of Beijing, active, clearly one to be visited. the unchanged furniture, lightings and decorative hangings in All around the Yonghegong, dozens of shops sell Bouddhist west-wing room, a pair of cute cloth tigers on the desk which items, incense, statues, but there, just at the corner with the Costa are handmade by a 70 years old granny from county in Hebei. Cafe and the KFC at the entrance is the Wudaoying Hutong. Recollection feeling is more than drinking, it's a best site to KFC and Costa ? Yes, the area is changing. Still these two realize your Hutong dream. shops have an unusually nice outfit adapted to the classical architecture of the place. There is here clearly a will to establish Site: 8 Houhai Nanyan, Shichahai,Xicheng District. a real attractive place, protecting the neighborhood. The ally Tel: 010-66158691 is nice and the cafes have developed everywhere, attracting Opening hours: Daily 8pm-12.30midnight artists, Chinese and foreigners.What are the best places to visit in this small Hutong ? A mix of old fashion, hip clothes and nice dining places. And hidden behing the walls, some Wudaoying magnificient Beijing courtyards, luxury residences that are more In Beijing, Wudaoying Hutong is a street that has quietly and more sought after, at least at pae with the best apartment entered the tourism scene, and is beginning to emerge as a compounds in Beijing. player in the market. With Chinese cultural architecture and Mexican Food can be enjoyed in Sand Peebles, a place with an array of shops, boutiques, cafes, and nightlife hotspots, it a very good reputation for mexican food. Try it yourself and is no surprise that this area of town is beginning to garner the decide what is your opinion about it, but I loved it really, nachos attention of locals and foreigners alike. The local government and burritos worth eating in Beijing. The Vineyard is one of the has taken notice too, with new plans to help develop the street best places to eat simple but really good western meals in Beijing, into a thriving center of attraction. with a great attention put on the quality of the products for Wudaoying hutong located in the Dongcheng District of the pizzas, hamburgers, steaks and many snacks with a very good capital, Wudaoying Hutong has been a part of an area that selection of wine bottles with logical prices. If you prefer beer, has influenced Beijing in terms of commerce, politics, trade, the restaurant has a branch Stuffed just at the cornet with home and culture for over 700 years. Located near such famous made beer, realy worth a visit. scenic spots such as the Forbidden City, Tianamen Square, the There is as well a strange thing to see: a Vampire Bar, yes , in Confucian Temple, Imperial College, and more notably the Beijing, and a cat bar not far from it, if you feel less adventurous. Yonghe Lama Temple, it is surprising that the Hutong has taken There is musical venues, the most active one is the school bar with so long to develop into a center of commerce. Dongcheng its underground music place with concerts, rock and Beijing punk covers an area of 25.38 square kilometers with a population most of the time. Not very far, the Va Bar offer gigs as well, with of 555,000 and was part of the central area of the ancient many foreign bands.You'll find a couple of art galleries, clothes capital of the Yuan (1271-1368), Ming (1368-1644) and designers. Wudaoying attarcts a calm, urban crowd od people “With Chinese cultural architecture Qing (1644-1911) Dynasties. During the Qing dynasty, it looking for a nice place to spend some time. is known that Wudaoying was used as a military outpost to protect the inner city. After a period of relative peace and Travel Tips and an array of shops, boutiques, stability, the soldiers settled at the hutong. The Beijing City Master Plan has designated Dongcheng as one of the four core Give yourself half a day to explore Wudaoying. Any day of cafes, and nightlife hotspots, it is zones of the capital city, a zone that typifies Beijing's function the week will be a good time to visit except Monday, when some as the country's political, cultural, and commercial center. As of the shops are closed. Start with a late lunch and slowly work yourself through the boutiques along the street. Take a break in no surprise that this area of town between and indulge yourself with a massage and manicure or “it is still quite a mix of old-fashioned cup of coffee. When dusk falls, feast yourself on a unique cuisine hutong life and chic Western stops.” at one of Wudaoying's many Western-themed restaurants. The is beginning to garner the attention restaurants may be crowded on weekends, so try to make a Wudaoying is located in this zone, it has received attention reservation beforehand. After dinner, be sure to drop by a bar of locals and foreigners alike.” from the government that has planned to renovate the area or club for live performances or parties. Wudaoying is generally and turn it into a pedestrian street. In the last twelve months, safe but don't let your experience be marred by pickpockets this hutong has therefore seen skyrocketing prices. Rent has always keep a safe watch of your belongings. increased dramatically and landlords have been renting out rooms for around 5,000 RMB/month.

CHINESE HIDE & SEEK | ISSUE 01, 2015 22 CONNECT Snack | Activiries | Gift Guide

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Snack 1. STINKY TOFU It is a form of fermented tofu that has a cheese place at Nanluoguxiang. 4. TANGHULU It is 6. MALATANG A common type of Chinese street food, strong odour. It is a snack that is usually sold at night markets a traditional Chinese snack of candied fruit, It consists of candied especially popular in Beijing. Typically a table with a big and or roadside stands or as a side dish in lunch bars rather than in fruits on bamboo skewers that are approximately 20cm long. flat saucepan is set up on the street, with a large number of restaurants. 2. ARTIC OCEAN SOFT DRINK Popular oldest 5. LAO SUANNAI It is oldest traditional chinese yoghourt. ingredients in skewers being cooked in a mildly spicy broth. chinese soft drink. 3. WEN YU CHEESE Traditional chinese

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Activities & Gifts guide

1. CHANGE PURSE It is traditional hand-made leather purse. 2. GIFT a shop specializing in custom-fixed gear bikes and juggling SHOP The store sell souvenir. 3. SWAP STORE where you can trade in equipment. 7. 21 GRAMS Cafe and Bar, on Nanluoguxiang, your old stuff for whatever takes your fancy; Phone:6407 6094 or 6409 has a daily happy hour special from 6:30pm-2:00am that is for 3110, address: 67 wudaoying Hutong, dongcheng district. 4. CACALIA 6 free beers with the purchase of 12 beers. 8. THE POTTERY 7 8 LORD Cacalia Lord is the old Beijing folk traditional toys, Cacalia God's WORKSHOP This charming little pottery studio-cum-store, image from rabbit which living on the moon. 5. RICKSHAW Tricycle trip which features ceramics from talented local potters, has solved many a gift-giver's dilemma. that traveling around the old residential area in Beijing. 6. NATOOKE

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