Out of Their Shells

REPEL AND ATTRACT DEAL IN LEANDRA MEDINE TALKS ABOUT HER FIRST BOOK, “THE MAN THE SUN REPELLER: SEEKING LOVE. FINDING SEQUENTIAL BRANDS GROUP BUYS SUNGLASS OVERALLS.” PAGE 9 BRAND REVO FROM LUXOTTICA. PAGE 2

TOUGH SCHOOLING Outlook for B-t-s Grows Gloomier

By ARNOLD J. KARR

RETAILERS CAN ONLY HOPE the early stages of WWD back-to-school aren’t a harbinger of holiday. As stores resort to virtually every device in their promotional toolboxes to build buzz for the b-t-s MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2013 $3.00 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q Q season, what had been already modest expectations are becoming even gloomier. Researchers note the strength of year-ago sales as just one of several challenges faced by stores looking to move healthy amounts of apparel, footwear, computers and tablets and more algorithmic school supplies. Customer Growth Partners’ Craig Johnson com- pared consumer spending to “a car stuck between ﬁrst and second gear” in projecting a seasonal increase of 3.4 percent for traditional b-t-s categories, below the 4.2 percent gain registered last year. On Friday, IHS Global Insight forecast a 3.2 percent gain, below the 3.6 percent advance to $40.9 billion logged by U.S. retailers during the 2012 season and also below the 4.1 percent gain expected for total retail sales during the third quarter. Chris Christopher Jr., director of consumer markets at IHS, cited improved consumer conﬁdence and improvement in the equity and home markets as pluses for the season, with higher gas prices and a late start working against it. “Many students and parents will not splurge in the third quarter since they will wait for the heavy holiday season discounting that has been occurring sooner and sooner,” he said. “In addition, e-commerce retail sales have been gaining share of total retail and especially on clothing, books, shoes and computers.” He expects e-commerce to move from its current level of 5.5 percent of retail sales to 7.4 percent by the end of 2017. A number of analysts and researchers believe that it’s the shift to e-commerce that has changed the tim- ing of both b-t-s and its larger, later counterpart, the holiday season. SEE PAGE 12 India Revises FDI Rules

By MAYU SAINI

NEW DELHI — The Indian government has relented to pressure from overseas retailers and revised some of the rules for foreign direct investment in multibrand retailing. Out of Their Shells Although foreign retailers have been studying the $500 billion Indian market with steady interest over the last few years, and the government threw open Strictly prim and proper no more, pearls are the doors last November amid chaos and protests in Vibe’s 18-karat gold, gray Baroque having a high-drama moment as designers Parliament, multibrand retailers remained wary of pearl and diamond necklace; Melissa setting up operations that are 51 percent FDI owned Joy Manning’s 14-karat gold, ﬂaunt the jewel’s provocative side with and 49 percent locally owned. Baroque pearl, Biwa pearl and keshi beautiful conﬁgurations of Baroque pearls. Unveiling the changes last week aimed at spurring pearl necklace, and Vieri by Bibi van For more, see pages 4 and 5. VALLE FDI in multibrand retailing, Anand Sharma, com-

der Velden’s 18-karat pink and yellow DEL merce minister, said on Thursday that more “clarity gold, Baroque pearl and white and was required to beneﬁt [global] retailers.” brown diamond ring. Overseas retailers can now set up stores in any city, a major shift from the earlier stipulation that CASSAUNDRA foreign stores could only be opened in cities with

AND populations of more than 1 million. There are only 53 cities that have a population above that level, and the previous rule allowing each state to make its own decision as to whether to allow foreign retailers limited SHELHAMMER the opportunity even further. Several foreign retailers commented that they HAILEY were still concerned about the uncertainty in a pre- election year, in terms of central as well as state government.

ASSISTANTS: The opposition Bharatiya Janata Party and sev-

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON eral other political parties have been vociferously

FASHION SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2013 WWD.COM Sequential Buys Revo Brand THE BRIEFING BOX chief executive officer. Cynthia Rowley and Izod. IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG “The vision we have for the While the ceo declined to brand is one where we believe discuss the brand’s volume, he SEQUENTIAL Brands Group Inc. Revo can be extended to many noted, “Sequential is actively has acquired the Revo sunglass relevant categories within per- eyeing brands that it believes An image from the Helena brand for $20 million in cash from formance: outdoor space, outdoor can do $100 million at retail Christensen for Triumph Oakley Inc., which is owned by gear, footwear, active apparel and over the next few years.” look book. For more, see Luxottica Group SpA. technical apparel for outdoors. In that quest, Sequential is WWD.com. The cash transaction, which rep- We believe this is a unique oppor- still in acquisition mode and ex- resents the fourth deal Sequential tunity to leverage a brand that’s pects to do more deals. It is hop- has completed so far this year, will truly authentic,” Shmidman said. ing to do two to three deals a year be funded through cash on hand. over the next few years. Earlier in the year, the brand man- A Revo ad image. As for the opportunities that are agement firm picked up Heelys, out there, Shmidman said, “These Ellen Tracy and Caribbean Joe. The are interesting times. There are a firm has a total of seven brands in number of brands that we believe its portfolio. The other brands are will change hands. We are really fo- William Rast, People’s Liberation cusing on brands where we have the and DVS Action Sports. ability to grow them within our brand The purchase includes Revo’s management licensing model.” intellectual property plus certain Sequential at the end of July other assets. closed on a private placement Revo is a high-end perfor- with a group of accredited inves- mance line that contains the same tors in which the firm netted $44 technology NASA uses for sat- million from the sale of 8 million ellites to deflect radiation. The shares of common stock exempt Nonstop promoting hasn’t managed to generate consumer glare-blocking feature via high- from Securities and Exchange excitement about the approaching back-to-school season. Page 1 contrast polarized lens technology Commission registration at $5.50 a is ideal for outdoor sports and ac- share. Sequential ended the month The Indian government has relented to pressure from tivities as it blocks 100 percent of with $57 million in cash on hand. overseas retailers and revised some of the rules for foreign UVA, UVB and UVC light. Following the Revo transaction, direct investment in multibrand retailing. Page 1 Following the sale of Revo, Sequential has signed a long- Sequential has $37 million in cash Luxottica will still have as its high- term partnership agreement on its balance sheet to support its Frette has entered into a collaboration with Harry’s of end performance brands Ray-Ban with Sunglass Hut to continue acquisition strategy. The company London for a men’s and women’s footwear collection. Page 6 and Persol. Luxottica, started in the distribution of Revo-branded also has leveraged financing avail- 1961 by Leonardo Del Vecchio, ac- eyewear at Sunglass Hut stores able through Bank of America Coach is overhauling its watch collection, with the new styles quired Persol in 1995, Ray-Ban in globally. The agreement with Merrill Lynch. set to hit stores for fall and holiday. Page 7 1999, Sunglass Hut International Sunglass is nonexclusive, so Sequential posted net income Inc. in 2001 and Oakley in 2007. Revo-branded eyewear can be of $693,000, or 4 cents a diluted Lucchese, the maker of high-end cowboy boots, is launching Revo, launched in 1985, was part sold at other retailers as well. share, for the second quarter fashion footwear for women and men for spring. Page 7 B. Robinson also inked an ended June 30, against a net loss of the Ray-Ban acquisition from Bausch + Lomb, and later moved agreement with Sequential for a of $878,000, or 37 cents, a year Ann Taylor has tapped Camuto Group to help oversee and under the Oakley umbrella. long-term licensing agreement ago. Licensing and other revenue It was Revo’s premium perfor- for the manufacture of Revo jumped to $4.3 million from $1 source its shoe program. Page 7 mance positioning that attracted sunglasses and related product. million. The company converted Sequential to the brand, according The eyewear manufacturer also its business to the current brand Randa Accessories expects to boost its output and efficiency to Yehuda Shmidman, the group’s manufactures for Cole Haan, management model last year. as it expands in Reno, New Orleans and Toronto, and closes the Swank distribution center in Taunton, Mass. Page 8

Monica Rich Kosann has opened a 400-square-foot shop on Krakoff to Buy Namesake Brand for $10 Bergdorf Goodman’s seventh ﬂoor. Page 8

cial rundown shown to would-be if it isn’t closed by the end of the Leandra Medine of the Man Repeller blog, whose first book is By EVAN CLARK investors, the business lost on the month. The deal contemplates out next month, discusses her life in and out of fashion. Page 9 order of $35 million last year and certain other agreements, includ- NEW YORK — Reed Krakoff is was projected to continue to lose ing potentially a two-year, $20 mil- Hearst Magazines Digital Media and OMD have teamed up buying his namesake business from money for the next two years. lion loan from Coach to fund the with Estée Lauder for what they describe as the first Flipboard Coach Inc. for $10 in cash — proof, Coach detailed the deal in Krakoff business. That financing magazine created for a product launch. Page 9 if any was needed, that it’s tough to a filing with the Securities and would not take effect if the design- build equity in a designer business Exchange Commission late Friday, er is able to find additional equity Fifth & Pacific Cos. Inc. and Gores Malibu Holdings have even when backed by a powerhouse. listing the buyers as the designer financing before the deal closes. settled all claims arising from a complaint filed by Gores Under the deal inked July 29, and Reed Krakoff Investments If the deal does not close be- concerning the sale of the Mexx business. Page 11 Krakoff will also assume debts LLC. Krakoff has been one of fash- cause the designer can’t find ad- tied to the business and issue ion’s most highly paid executives ditional financing, he agreed to Coach 15 percent of the business’ for years, and from 2010 through forfeit $3 million in severance Retailers picked up the pace of hiring in July, adding 46,800 “common membership interests.” 2012 alone saw total compensation compensation and an additional jobs, according to the U.S. Labor Department. Page 12 Coach will also receive “convert- of more than $60 million, some of $3 million a month beginning this ible preferred membership inter- which came in the form of stock month until the deal is terminated. ON WWD.COM ests” representing another 20 per- and option awards. The business began as an ini- cent of the membership interest. Krakoff agreed to resign as tiative to drive brand creativity at MARKETS: Triumph International, the world’s largest lingerie Sources familiar with the sale president and executive creative Coach in 2008 and later evolved company, whose brands include Triumph, Sloggi, Valisère and process said Krakoff had been director at Coach when the buy- into a Reed Krakoff brand — a Hom, plans to open its first Triumph stores in the U.S. this courting potential partners, but out is complete or when the deal take on “New American luxury,” month. For more, see WWD.com. ultimately had to shoulder most of is terminated, whichever comes according an earlier regulatory the burden himself. According to first. Both Coach and Krakoff have filing. (For more on Coach, see a person familiar with the finan- the right to terminate the deal story on page 7.) TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 206, NO. 24. MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Prosecutor to Probe Printemps Deal Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Deutsche Bank’s Deutsche Asset outline the general terms of the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, By JOELLE DIDERICH & Wealth Management, previously case as a first step, the spokes- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver known as RREEF, and the remain- woman said, saying the unions Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North PARIS — The Paris prosecutor’s ing 30 percent from Italy’s Borletti accused the principals in the Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. office has opened a preliminary in- Group. The planned deal was orig- sale of wide-ranging offenses. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or quiry into the sale of French retail- inally revealed in February. “There are a lot of gray areas inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine er Printemps, in response to a com- The transaction was green- in the facts that they have de- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. plaint from labor representatives, a lighted by France’s Competition tailed to investigators,” she noted. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt spokeswoman said on Friday. Authority on July 22, Disa said. “This is an investigation that of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request The probe was launched on Some union officials had criti- will have no impact on the civil for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at June 28, before last week’s an- cized the financial conditions of and commercial aspects of the www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that nouncement that the sale had the deal as opaque and called for deal. It will in no way cancel, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at been finalized. the public prosecutor to launch a suspend or delay the sale from a P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Qatari-backed investment probe into the transaction. legal standpoint,” she added. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER fund Divine Investments SA, or The prosecutor’s office has Officials at Printemps were UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Disa, said Wednesday that it has asked the financial brigade of not immediately reachable for DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A acquired a 70 percent stake from the judicial police in Paris to comment. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. REGISTER BY AUGUST 16TH FOR A SPECIAL RATE

THE TRANSFORMERS

APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT

OCT 28–29 NEW YORK CITY

MICHAEL KORS ERIC C. WISEMAN TERRY LUNDGREN PATRIZIO DI MARCO KAY KRILL MICHAEL KORS VF CORPORATION MACY’S INC. GUCCI ANN INC. HOLDINGS LTD.

WWD.COM/APPAREL for a full list of speakers TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4824 @wwdsummits #wwdapparel

SPONSORED BY 4 WwD monday, august 5, 2013

pearl jam Kiss the country club goodbye. Pearls, long the chosen jewel of conservative style, are having a renaissance. The latest designs have a new attitude that mixes organic shapes and interesting colors with edgy settings.

Arman Photos by George Chinsee Sarkisyan’s Styled by Roxanne Robinson 22-karat gold, oxidized silver, brown diamond Katie Decker’s 18-karat gold, diamond and Baroque pearl earrings. and Baroque pearl necklace.

w05a004(5)a;7.indd 1 8/2/13 2:14 PM 08022013141641 WwD monday, august 5, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Lisa Mackey’s aluminum and Baroque pearl necklace.

Tustiost int quaturias etrfuga.

Nina Runsdorf’s 18-karat white gold, Crevoshay’s 18-karat gold, tourmaline, diamond and Baroque pearl earrings. pink tourmaline and Baroque pearl earrings.

Marco Bicego’s Mikimoto’s 18-karat yellow 18-karat gold, rhodium, white gold, white sapphire multicolored and Baroque Baroque pearl bracelet. and South Sea pearl pendant.

Tamsen Z’s 18-karat white gold, pavé diamond and Baroque pearl ring. VALLE pearl jam DEL CASSAUNDRA

Kiss the country club goodbye. Pearls, long the chosen jewel of conservative style, are having a renaissance. AND The latest designs have a new attitude that mixes organic shapes and interesting colors with edgy settings. SHELHAMMER Arman Jordan

Sarkisyan’s Alexander’s HAILEY 22-karat gold, oxidized oxidized silver, silver, pavé brown diamond diamond and Sylvie Corbelin Paris’ 18-karat gold, Katie Decker’s 18-karat gold, diamond and Baroque pearl earrings. and Baroque Baroque pearl sterling silver, tourmaline, sapphire, ruby, ASSISTANTS: pearl necklace. bracelet. diamond and keshi pearl earrings. FASHION

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For more images, see An image from the Helena Christensen for Triumph look book. WWD.com/ innerwear market-news. Frette Grows Global Brand details, branding and Harry’s of By Karyn Monget London’s technical construc- tion makes it a Frette product. Frette is expanding its the designs are very classi- universe. cal, and people appreciate the the Italian specialist in quality and detailing….We sell luxury lingerie, loungewear, an experience, not just a prod- and bedding has entered into uct, and we’re very mindful of a collaboration with Harry’s that because we have a very of London for a men’s and strong return and loyalty rate women’s footwear collection, from our customers.” Frette by Harry’s of London. the footwear will be sold the collaboration is part exclusively at Frette’s 25 free- of a strategy to selectively standing global stores starting grow Frette’s presence as a in november, followed by whole- global lifestyle brand. the sale distribution to Frette’s 75 initiative will kick off with shops-in-shop and 25 corners at luxury footwear as well as department and specialty stores high-end accessories and gift worldwide in early 2014. Triumph International items for the home, beach Frette’s product expansion and travel that are designed was set in motion in late 2011 to pamper and entertain the when the company significantly Enters U.S. Market most discerning consumers. grew its slippers business with Beginning this fall, a 15 colors for men and women. trIUMPH InternatIonaL, the world’s largest lingerie com- capsule collection of soft, the new gift range, which in- pany, has its sights set on the U.S. market. sporty leather and suede cludes porcelains, fragrance the $2.1 billion underwear and bra specialist, whose moccasins in rich autumn and decorative home accesso- brands include triumph, Sloggi, Valisère and Hom, plans to shades will coordinate with A look from Frette’s sleepwear line. ries that incorporate patterns open its first triumph stores in the U.S. at the Walt Whitman Frette’s seasonal home col- and textures inspired by Frette’s and roosevelt Field shopping malls in Huntington Station and lection for fall. the foot- signature textiles, has been de- garden City, n.y., respectively, this month. a third store is slated wear, which will retail be- signed with companies that to open in new Jersey in early 2014. triumph products will also tween $350 and $440 for have “generations of expertise,” be available on a Web site for U.S. consumers in november. women’s styles and $445 explained Franklin. For german-based triumph, which operates 2,000 triumph for men’s, is designed to “We’ve also expanded leath- stores and sells its products to more than 40,000 department and be worn indoors as well as er goods that include a leather specialty stores worldwide, the U.S. debut is the newest phase outdoors. tray, as well as travel items of international expansion, said Markus Spiesshofer, chief ex- Laurence Franklin, chief such as a cosmetic pouch for ecutive officer, managing partner and a member of the founding executive officer of Milan- women and a toiletry kit for family that created the company in 1886. based Frette Srl, said Frette men. For spring-summer 2014, “our tradition has always been innovation and our histo- and Harry’s of London share we’ll have a beach collection ry is one of progress. Introducing ourselves to the discerning the same synergies and lux- with towels, sandals, beach american consumer and treating her to the perfect cutting-edge ury standards. bags and pareos, and picnic designs, fit and quality of our lines is a natural development in “It’s a great niche com- items such as outdoor glasses making our brand available and accessible to women around the pany, and their management and trays for entertaining.…But globe,” said Spiesshofer. team and manufacturing is our calling is still the bedroom triumph made its first concrete steps in the U.S. market in all Italian. Harry’s of London and bathroom and the things late 2012 when it acquired a controlling stake in new york- is owned by the richemont that you wear in these rooms, based Journelle, a specialty retailer of upscale lingerie that g r o u p [ C o m p a g n i e as well as accessories that are operates three stores in Manhattan. at the same time, the Financière richemont], part of a beautiful Italian life- Munich-based innerwear giant purchased Mexico’s Vicky Form, which also owns Cartier and style,” he emphasized. a lingerie manufacturer and specialty retail chain. Van Cleef & arpels,” said An ad image for Frette by Harry’s regarding business, Franklin asked how triumph will position its brand in the U.S., Paul Franklin. “the focus on the of London footwear. would only say that combined Mcadams, the company’s general manager in the U.S., said the wholesale and retail sales in- strategy is “aligned with our global positioning.” creased “10 to 20 percent, mar- “We recently updated our brand’s look and feel, as well as ket by market.” corporate identity. While in europe the updated logo and ac- “Currently, business in asia, companying marketing material will be introduced for spring- eastern europe, the Middle summer 2014, we will use the opportunity of our first store east and the U.S. is all very openings in the U.S. to start out right away with the new look healthy,” said Franklin. and feel.…While our hopes and confidence are high for the In an interview with WWD in american market, we choose a very measured approach, en- May 2012, Franklin said of the suring that the american consumer meets and experiences the 153-year-old House of Frette, brand in a holistic way. We want to earn her trust and respect, “globally, the business does and we know this takes many good experiences,” said Mcadams. over $100 million annually, regarding competition in the $14.5 billion intimates market about 70 percent is consumer in the U.S., Mcadams commented, “We are not a boutique brand, oriented and about 30 percent is and we make our premium product available at reasonable pric- B2B [hotel, hospitality and cus- es, starting at $38 for a bra. our competitive prices are based on tom orders].…geographically, the wish to be accessible to many women, as every woman de- we do 30 percent of business serves to feel comfortable and beautiful in her own skin. We also in north america, mainly the believe that the intimate and private lingerie shopping experi- U.S. and Mexico, and 40 percent ence will be greatly aided by our professional ‘tailoresses’ [fit- in Italy, France, etc., where we ters] in our stores. this supports our philosophy of addressing have our own operations. the the consumer physically and aesthetically, as well as addressing rest is in up-and-coming mar- the emotional needs of our target consumer. kets.…We plan selective growth “triumph has been crafting and innovating high-quality linge- in 2013 to 2014.…Hong Kong is rie for over 125 years, and employs underwear designers across the a gateway market and it [China] globe that work in 12 r&D centers, developing and testing the lat- has a strong domestic market est in styles, colors, technologies and fabrics. Lingerie and shape- La Lame, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics where we have a good presence. wear is what we are good at and what we want to bring to our cus- We will expand in China with tomers. as opposed to almost all other major fashion brands — be our partners.” it apparel or intimate apparel — triumph comprises the complete Istanbul and the Ukraine are value chain in intimate apparel, from r&D to design, in-house pro- STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS the newest locations for Frette duction and multichannel retailing,” explained Mcadams. POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL stores, while a unit in Shanghai a sales projection for the U.S. business was not available, GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES is currently being expanded. but Mcadams did say the company has been in “constant stable “We will probably be open- growth over the years.” ing one or two new stores in the “Despite the economic downturn, the last two years have re- U.S. next year. We are looking at ported a growth of 1 billion Swiss francs [$1.08 billion]. the growth metropolitan areas where Frette comes not only from our key markets such as China and taiwan, La Lame, Inc. customers exist such as atlanta, but also in highly saturated markets such as germany that had a 2.5 Dallas, Houston or Chicago,” percent increase in 2012. this leaves us positive in our hopes for said Franklin. the future of the brand in the U.S.,” said Mcadams. — K.M.

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A rose gold Legacy Sport Coach to Launch Updated Watch Line watch. or 42-mm. dials. By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD That sportier look contrasts with the Madison, which is a clas- NEW YORK — Time is the mother sic line with a smaller 32-mm. case of invention— at least that’s what and colorful straps made of saf- Coach Inc. is hoping. ﬁano leather, which is also used in As part of its quest to achieve life- the brand’s Madison handbag col- style-brand status, the accessories lection. Other styles use Swarovski maker is overhauling its watch col- crystals and mother-of-pearl dials. lection, with the new styles set to hit “We’ve taken a huge investment stores for fall and holiday. in doing this, and we are really re- In tandem with its licensing part- positioning the whole brand and ner Movado Group Inc., Coach has rallying our organization behind doubled the collection to 200 styles this,” Movado chairman and chief and lowered the price points to be executive ofﬁcer Efraim Grinberg more competitive in the fashion said. “Coach has such a strong watch category. heritage and is such a strong brand The average price point for the from a consumer perspective. For new collection is $228, with 95 per- us, entering the fashion watch cat- cent of the assortment priced in the egory in a Coach way really repre- pieces to update their wardrobes. Rival $158 to $298 range. This compares with a Coach is set to unveil its revamped watch collection. sents an opportunity.” Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. has gobbled up prior average price of $300. Coach said it Movado took a $4.9 million charge a large amount of share from its watch of- would still produce limited-edition styles through its partnership with Movado in the fourth quarter related to the Coach fering. Kors, which posted annual revenues above $298, but that it’s targeting its since 1998, the revamped and expanded collection, but Grinberg said the invest- of $2.18 billion, said its fourth-quarter com- “sweet spot” at between $200 and $225. collection refers back to the brand’s heri- ment is already paying dividends, as the parable-store sales expanded 36.7 percent, According to Javan Bunch, senior vice tage by incorporating leather straps and collection has already picked up new driven by accessories and watches. president of licensing at Coach, talks of hardware found on its handbags. Case points of distribution internationally. Sources estimated that Coach’s watch repositioning the collection began six to in point: Coach has developed a watch In the U.S., Coach has increased dis- business totals about $100 million in re- nine months ago. called Penny, which makes use of the tribution of its watch line at Macy’s Inc. tail sales. “We all recognized fashion watches as clips it uses on its dog leashes for the from 400 doors to 600 doors, and the col- Coach, which is amid an aggressive a major category and a lifestyle opportuni- bracelet. Another standout for the brand lection will be available at 40 Nordstrom plan to become a lifestyle brand, report- ty,” Bunch said. “We have a real mandate is its Tristen model, which is an evolu- stores by yearend. ed annual sales of $5.08 billion Tuesday. in the accessories world. We feel that this tion from Coach’s best-selling Boyfriend According to Grinberg, the fashion watch As part of its strategy to expand and el- [collection] is an expression of our DNA.” watch, and includes rose gold, yellow market is ripe, as postrecession consumers evate the brand, Coach said it would Although Coach has carried watches gold or two-tone bracelets with larger 36- are buying “multiple value-priced” time- launch men’s watches by Nov. 1. Lucchese Aims High for Expansion Ann Taylor, Vince Camuto

expand beyond Western into fashion Link for Footwear Offering By MARC KARIMZADEH footwear, handbags and accessories and Ann Taylor brand spokeswoman eventually apparel.” By DAVID LIPKE Kate Hudson calls out the new foot- LUCCHESE, THE maker of high-end The artisanal details the brand is wear in a video promoting the launch. cowboy boots, is looking beyond the known for provide the foundation for NEW YORK — Ann Taylor has a new “They’re beyond beautiful. They fit Wild West. the new collection of shoes, includ- partner in footwear, tapping category amazing,” said the actress. “That’s a For spring, the El Paso, Tex.-based ing stacked heel pumps, flat sandals expert Camuto Group to help oversee pretty bootie,” she added of the laser- company is launching fashion footwear and riding boots, often in ultraluxe ex- and source its shoe program. cut style. for women and men, the first of several otic skins. The new additions range in The first styles from Greenwich, “We are proud to be the first-ever moves that capitalize on Lucchese’s luxu- suggested retail price from $495 for a Conn.-based Camuto Group, found- footwear design partner of such an in- ry appeal to create a lifestyle brand. suede driving shoe to $4,800 for a loafer ed by Vince Camuto, hit Ann Taylor fluential and iconic women’s brand,” “Lucchese has a 130-year history,” made from fine center cut Nile croco- stores and anntaylor.com today. said Camuto, chief executive officer noted William Zeitz, executive vice presi- dile belly skin. Among the highlights is The new partnership doubles of Camuto Group. “Ann Taylor is re- dent of marketing and creative director, a $725 pump style with a Western-motif the footwear assortments at nowned for sophisticated style, and a former senior executive at Cole leather overlay. Ann Taylor, as the retailer and we look forward to the op- Haan and Nike. “Sam Lucchese immi- “Because of the mantle of American puts a greater emphasis on the portunity to blend their sig- grated from Italy to Texas, back when it luxury, we see our designs as being category. nature feminine aesthetic was still truly the Wild West. He started somewhat more casual and related to the Brian Lynch, with beautifully crafted making boots for cowboys and word American lifestyle and how people are brand president of footwear.” spread throughout the territory that he dressing today,” Zeitz added. Ann Taylor, a divi- Camuto Group markets was making the best riding boots.” “Lucchese has these avid fans, loyal sion of Ann Inc., its flagship Vince Camuto Handmade with an emphasis on ex- people who collect and have 20 pairs said, “Vince’s exper- brand, which in- otic skins, Lucchese quickly became the of cowboy boots in their closet,” Zeitz tise in quality, includes women’s go-to cowboy boot resource, embraced by noted. “They have been asking us to novation and trends and men’s foot- nearly every U.S. president, and celebri- offer them Lucchese even when they’re makes him the right wear, apparel, ties like Johnny Cash, John Wayne and not wearing a boot. In that sense, we are partner to help us to accessories and Gregory Peck, and, more recently, Jamie growing our share in the closet by offer- continue to evolve Ann fragrance in vari- Foxx, Carey Mulligan, Hayden Panettiere ing new silhouettes. The big opportu- Taylor into a complete ous in-house and li- and Sharon Stone. Blake Shelton and nity is to increase brand awareness and lifestyle brand for the censed categories. The Miranda Lambert had Lucchese boots attract more people to the brand that modern woman. We look company also owns the made for their 2011 wedding. haven’t really known Lucchese before.” forward to offering the VC Signature, Louise et Cie “Lucchese is an authentic American The push to expand Lucchese’s offer- Ann Taylor woman a and Two by Camuto brands. It is luxury brand,” Zeitz added. ing was fueled by majority owner John high-quality, stylish as- the master licensee of the $1 bil- “There aren’t many American Muse, a Dallas venture capitalist. The sortment of shoes that lion Jessica Simpson brand and luxury brands and it’s a unique brand’s current sales volume is at $70 reflects her versatile manages the footwear opportunity for Lucchese to million, including wholesale, as well lifestyle.” divisions of BCBG Max as freestanding stores in Santa Fe, Most Ann Taylor Azria, BCBGeneration Lucchese is N.M., San Antonio and Nashville. stores will stock be- and Lucky Brand. looking beyond Zeitz declined to disclose sales tween 30 to 40 different Additionally, Camuto Group cowboy boots with Looks from the fall projections. footwear styles, with the com- sources footwear for Tory fashion footwear. Ann Taylor footwear The new styles will launch plete assortment available collection. Burch. at the FFANY New online and at the Ann Taylor Camuto Group operates

IANNACCONE York Shoe flagship on Madison Avenue. As of May, more than 30 retail stores for its own Expo, which Ann Taylor operated 273 full-price brands and sells product from its en- kicks off stores and 102 factory stores. The divi- tire brand portfolio into 5,400 depart- THOMAS today and sion rang up total sales of $945.2 mil- ment and specialty stores worldwide. BY runs through lion in fiscal 2012. “There was a natural creative syn- Wednesday. “We think that The fall footwear collection — ergy with the Camuto team in bringing PHOTOS by increasing the fashion side of the which remains branded as Ann Taylor, our vision to life,” said Lisa Axelson, brand, it will also help the Western side not Vince Camuto — includes ballet head of design at Ann Taylor. “We de- of the brand,” Zeitz said. Such synergy flats in quilted leather, heels ranging signed a beautiful collection of shoes will also play a central role in future from a four-inch stiletto to a kitten that complements the multifaceted projects. “We started working on hand- style, a laser-cut bootie and knee-high lives women lead today and delivers on bags and other accessories and will be riding boots. Retail prices range from our brand promise of providing them launching those within a year.” $78 to $248. with style, quality, comfort and fit.” 8 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2013 WWD.COM Randa to Invest $25 Million in Infrastructure

The New Orleans complex, picked up many received payments for their eq- other transportation hubs, distribu- By ARNOLD J. KARR as part of Randa’s 1997 acquisition of uity in Swank when Randa acquired tion costs to its customers’ distribution neckwear supplier Wemco, will include its rival in the men’s accessories mar- centers, state and local support and the RANDA ACCESSORIES expects to boost an independent power supply. ket last year, financial services to help availability of labor. its output and efficiency as it expands its Reno’s output is expected to grow to them manage their money. The company also plans to move its lo- footprints in Reno, Nev.; New Orleans, more than 40 million units a year and “The decision to close our Taunton gistics center in Toronto to a larger facil- and Toronto and closes the Swank distri- be spread throughout its entire product facility, while strategically correct, is ity and double the office, showroom and bution center in Taunton, Mass. range, including neckwear, belts, wal- nonetheless very difficult from a human warehouse space currently dedicated to The firm, the largest U.S.-based men’s lets, luggage, jewelry and footwear. It’s perspective,” said David Katz, Randa’s the Canadian market. accessories supplier, has earmarked $25 also been approved for free-trade-zone senior vice president and chief market- With last year’s addition of Swank, sales million for, among other purposes, a second status, the company said. ing officer, noting it was “based on a thor- at the privately held firm last year grew facility in Reno, a 275,000-square-foot edi- The Taunton closure, effective with ough study of the current and future mar- to $625 million distributed among 18,000 fice that will add 120 jobs to its head count the expiration of its lease in February, ket environment and our ability to meet points of sale on five continents. The com- and go online with LEED, or Leadership will result in the elimination of ap- our customers’ needs with the best and pany has about 4,700 employees and last in Energy & Environmental Design, Silver proximately 160 jobs, about 135 in the affordable solutions.” year shipped more than 65 million units, certification, and an upgrade of its logistics complex’s distribution center and Randa had undertaken an extensive the majority attributable to belts. facility in New Orleans that, with the addi- the rest in administrative capacities. review of its infrastructure needs fol- Its portfolio of licensed brands num- tion of a new conveyor system and logistics Employees will be offered positions lowing the Swank acquisition. Among bers about 75. Owned brands include software, will elevate its accessories capac- elsewhere in the Randa organization. the criteria considered, Katz said, were Countess Mara, Trafalgar and Swank, ity, with an emphasis on belt shipments, to Those opting to leave will be provided adjacencies to international ports of which it intends to reintroduce at retail more than 30 million units a year. with outplacement services, and as entry, highways, airports, freight and later this year. BG Showcases Kosann Lifestyle FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE decor accessories offers a mod- clients can have diamonds WWD.com/ By DAVID MOIN ern take on vintage pieces, and placed wherever they choose. accessories-news. exudes sentimentality. “It’s all There are also gold photo-case “EVERYTHING IS about docu- very personal,” Kosann said. charms, priced at $1,150; dia- menting lives and memories and “Why not wear your story close mond “baby feet” charms, priced being a storyteller. That’s what I to your heart? Wear a locket. It’s at $2,900, and gold chains in dif- am,” said Monica Rich Kosann, sexy. It’s mysterious.” ferent sizes. For the new shop, the wispy designer-photographer. The 400-square-foot Monica Kosann has added jewelry boxes, She was standing in her new Rich Kosann shop is the only stationery, calling cards, leather shop inside Bergdorf Goodman, space on Bergdorf ’s seventh journals and candles. She’s even which is really the first true ex- floor selling jewelry, and also created a new marigold logo on a pression of her growing busi- stands out because of its muted white background. ness and her design philoso- taupey tones and boudoirlike “To think that 10 years ago I phy. Kosann’s collection of gold velvet-padded display cases started at Bergdorf ’s on a little and sterling jewelry and home evoking jewelry boxes. There’s a shelf, two feet by two feet, with spectrum of product and prices, some image cases, inspired by from $16 writing pads to $200,000 vintage cigarette cases and pow- one-of-a-kind lockets designed der compacts. It was a crazy around precious stones select- idea,” Kosann recalled. From ed by the client. The jewelry, in there, Kosann got into picture gold and sterling silver, comes in frames and other home acces- three main categories: lockets; sories, and eventually jewelry, charm-focused styles and jew- which currently represents 85 elry accessory pieces including percent of her collection. layering necklaces and bracelets, Aside from Bergdorf ’s, earrings and rings. The look is Kosann sells at Neiman Marcus, “very classic, elegant and time- London Jewelers, Mitchells, less,” so the jewelry becomes Lane Crawford, Isetan and Tsum

The heirlooms, Kosann said. Among — 100 doors in all, she said. ERICKSEN

“carpe her most popular pieces are the Kosann also designs handbags, KYLE

diem” $2,500 “carpe diem” charm neck- sold on Bergdorf ’s ﬁrst ﬂoor, and Monica Rich Kosann in BY necklace. lace in gold and rock crystal and she continues with her black- her Bergdorf’s shop.

the “my earth” necklace where and-white photography. PHOTOS

rings and earrings ranges in brand’s classic bag shapes were Wendy Nichol Adding Fine Jewelry price from $850 to $5,000, though reimagined with updated detail- earrings can be purchased singu- ing, like an embroidered Eye of larly or as a pair, bringing down Horus design. A studded version comprised of silver, brass and what we’re known for.” the entry price point. Nichol used of the Bullet Bag sold out in two By KRISTI GARCED bronze pieces starting at $250, After designing a few custom predominantly black diamonds, days on Net-a-porter. is what initially put her on the engagement and wedding bands her personal favorite, as well as Next on the horizon could be WENDY NICHOL placed a leath- map. The self-taught designer for friends, Nichol’s fine collec- white and champagne, set in 18- footwear. Nichol offers a selection er crown atop her long hair while created her first piece — a pyr- tion felt like a natural progres- karat rose, yellow and white gold of vintage shoes exclusively in her her Scottish Fold cat, named amid bracelet — right after her sion. “I found a third-generation as well as platinum and rhodium. shops; a towering pair of vintage Tiny Lou — the unofficial mascot daughter was born. “I would stone setter — his father and Inspiration came from Masonic Vivienne Westwood booties, priced of Nichol’s SoHo boutique and have [my daughter Sofia] in the grandfather both set for Van Cleef symbolism, astrological planets at $1,500, perfectly meld with the atelier, and a perfect foil to the stroller with me, and I would & Arpels,” she said. “Having that and Greek mythology. The collec- brand’s Gothic-bohemian aes- designer’s witchy aesthetic — be like, ‘Come on, we’re going resource allowed me to make the tion features her signature pyra- thetic, with lower-priced options watched from a careful distance. to the jewelry district,’” she pavé collection happen.” mid shapes as well as Venus, Sun, starting at $195. “I would want the The adjustable and reversible said. “I think our jewelry is The collection of micro-pavé Moon and Mercury symbols. “And shoes to be in the same spirit of my crowns, which range from $275 to then, of course, I made a pair of leather goods, with New York City- $375, are part of Nichol’s new ac- Wendy The Auspicious ring from cat ears,” Nichol laughed. based production and a real hand- cessories offering for fall, which Nichol Nichol’s fine jewelry collection. The collection will launch at crafted element,” she said. includes a foray into fine jewelry. wearing Barneys New York and Net-a- For now, the designer and “Sometimes I wear new things one of her porter.com this fall and is avail- her team are busy with jewelry, around just to see what people’s handmade able now at the designer’s SoHo handbags, small leather goods reactions are. And when I wear leather and NoLIta boutiques in New and a tight collection of ready- the crown, people are very taken crowns. York as well as online at wen- to-wear, the latter of which is aback, but I think it’s in a good dynicholnyc.com. available exclusively at her bou- way,” said the Toronto-born, Nichol’s core collection of tiques and e-commerce site. New York-based designer, whose leather handbags, which she “One successful thing you namesake brand counts Jessica handmakes with an in-house de- can do as a designer is make Alba and Jemima Kirke as fans. sign team, continues to evolve something with longevity,” Since its launch in 2007, the de- each season. “Our Bullet Bag, Nichol said. “Because it’s frus-

signer has quietly opened two ERICKSEN hands down, is our bestseller. We trating when you buy something boutiques in New York and con- always joke about it — if we cut and it’s not relevant [a few sea- KYLE

tinues to steadily grow her cloth- BY a black Bullet Bag, it’s usually sons later]. That’s really what ing and accessories brand. sold before the bag is done being I’m going for: to create products

Nichol’s main jewelry line, PHOTOS made,” Nichol said. For fall, the that have longevity.” ONE AT A TIME: Web site One Dress a Day will offer customers a different dress style each day. WWD STYLE PAGE 11

Medine wearing a Balmain jacket, MiH jeans and a Rebecca Minkoff top. To Repel and Compel NEW YORK — In a few short years, Leandra Medine has built a cult of personality around her singular style and its namesake blog, Man Repeller. With her first book, “Man Repeller: Seeking Love. Finding Overalls,” out next month, the 24-year-old Medine discusses her life in and out of fashion with WWD. For more, see page 10.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE

forward. “We’re creating synergies and Harper’s Bazaar UK. Online, DVF invested MEMO PAD connected content experiences across in its largest-ever digital media buy, with not only Hearst magazine brands, but also homepage takeovers, custom interactive Lauder and Flipboard.” units and mobile integration on sites such A FIRST FOR HEARST: Hearst Magazines Articles in the issue include “Get as Style.com, Elle.com and Nymag.com. Digital Media and OMD, an integrated Beautiful While You Sleep,” which An out-of-home buy includes taxi communications agency, have teamed up includes strategies for restful sleep, and “10 tops in New York, Boston, Las Vegas and with Estée Lauder for what they describe Ideas for Dressing for Summer Evenings.” Miami, as well as Taxi TV in New York as the first Flipboard magazine created “Flipboard is a creative platform for during fashion week. — DAVID LIPKE for a product launch. Set to launch today, engaging, entertaining and informing the Estée Lauder Beauty Book not only women who are interested in beauty and CULTURE CLUB: Details magazine and highlights the science behind the Lauder fashion,” said Gustavo Andriani, vice president, Lacoste are offering up a $10,000 prize brand’s newly updated Advanced Night North America marketing for Estée Lauder. in a search for emerging cultural Repair, but also offers fashion, beauty, “The distinct voices and points of view from The fall DVF campaign. innovators. Beginning today through Sept. health and lifestyle content from the Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire will 1, creative professionals in the arts, food, editorial teams of Harper’s Bazaar, Elle help jump-start the conversation around DVF’s iconic wrap dresses and the debut architecture and industrial, automotive and Marie Claire. Hearst also will create nighttime and skin care.” — JULIE NAUGHTON of the brand’s new Sutra bags. or furniture design are invited to submit custom-developed content for the project. “This campaign, like the collection it applications on the Details Web site. In “We all talk so much about the WERBOWY AND ROITFELD FOR DVF: Diane von represents, is really about getting back to addition to the cash award, the winner will importance of bringing brands to life Furstenberg recruited a new team for her our roots. It is about empowering women showcase his or her work in the windows and translating them to consumers,” said fall campaign, working for the first time to be the rock star and the muse of their of the Lacoste Fifth Avenue flagship Kristine Welker, chief revenue ofﬁcer for with Daria Werbowy as model, Carine Roitfeld as own lives,” said von Furstenberg. and design a limited-edition item for the Hearst Magazines Digital Media, who stylist and Sebastian Faena as photographer. The campaign breaks in September French sportswear maker. The promotion described the project as a multiplatform, Overseen by creative agency Laird + magazines, including Vogue, Harper’s is tied to Details’ annual “Culture content-based strategy that the company Partners, the images channel Seventies- Bazaar, Elle, InStyle and Vanity Fair, as well Mavericks” issue in October. — D.L. hopes to leverage with other clients going era paparazzi shots, with a spotlight on as international titles like Vogue Italia and {Continued on page 11} 10 WwD monday, august 5 , 2013

Leandra Medine in her East Village apartment in an Isabel Marant top, The Rules of Repelling Chloé shorts and her brother’s jewelry line. IT IS A TRUTH universally little companionship but many Medine says that rather than acknowledged that, when a shoes.…But it had never hit so giving Cohen (whose grandfather bright young woman launches a close to home.” was a founder of the New York

playful fashion blog that garners They wrote up a drugstore chain Duane Reade) five million followers, she must dictionary definition: “man flak about being married to be in want of a book contract. re.pell.er [mahn-ree-peller] the Man Repeller, his banker And she was. Now Leandra —noun: outfitting oneself in colleagues — who are “violently Medine, voted by Fashionista. a sartorially offensive way straight” — are fascinated by her com the top fashion blogger that will result in repelling because she knows members of

on the Web, has parlayed her members of the opposite sex. a group they’re very interested Man Repeller blog into a new Such garments include but are in: models. Of a Jewish man she book, “Man Repeller: Seeking not limited to harem pants, dated whom she broke up with Love. Finding Overalls” (Grand boyfriend jeans, overalls (see: because he couldn’t understand Central Publishing). human repelling), shoulder why she couldn’t travel with Scheduled for release on pads, full-length jumpsuits, him or take a bite of his chicken Sept. 10, the book has the same jewelry that resembles’’ violent Parmesan, she says, “It would funny, snarky tone as the Web weaponry and clogs.” have been different if he had site, and takes the form of a Medine’s apartment in been more respectful.” series of essays about Medine’s the East Village is filled with Making the decision to marry life, from childhood through intriguing items, including early — and to marry her first high school, college at The panoramic photos of places love — was a bit difficult for her. New School — during which in New York City, which her But then, she writes, “I realized she launched Man Repeller in husband, UBS executive Abie that if I were a 23-year-old girl April 2010 — her blog’s success Cohen, bought on the street; a getting married and I wasn’t and her wedding. She fills her figure of Karl Lagerfeld with his struggling with it, that would readers in on the extremely cat, Choupette; a doll that looks likely mean that something was important role that clothes like a shirtless Marc Jacobs either massively wrong with me have played in her life thus on steroids; a few wedding or that my brain is made up of far, naming the chapters after pictures; some empty silver delicately wrapped almonds that particular items of clothing, picture frames, and plenty of serve perfectly as party favors.” among them a pair of drop- crotch, M.C. Hammer-esque harem pants that, surprisingly, attracted two men with whom People often ask me if my she had serious romances, one of whom became her husband. She describes wanting to dress parents helped me. My mother like the Spice Girls as a child — something her mother forbade.

did lend me $10 to register CHINSEE She recalls having to wear long skirts and long-sleeve tops to Ramaz, her modern orthodox the domain name. GEORGE Jewish high school. She writes BY — Leandra Medine

about being thrown out of her PHOTO great-grandmother’s hospital room after turning up there in skull-shaped artifacts. A woman “People often ask me if my advertorials. Her father, a jewelry reaction was enthusiastic. ripped jeans shorts. dressed in a maid’s uniform is parents helped me,” Medine designer and jewelry company “I have always, always loved In the book, Medine, who cleaning the apartment, which says, adding, “My mother did executive, told her to hire people words,” says Medine, who studied is 24, also reveals how she is already immaculate. lend me $10 to register the who are good at things she’s not journalism in college. “Nothing and a friend defined the term At WWD’s request, Medine domain name.” Asked about her good at. She now has two people feels better than constructing a Man Repeller during a trip changes clothes three times friends’ response to her success, who work for her and is adding beautiful sentence.” to Topshop, when her friend during an interview. The she says, “My new friends are a third one this month. She has But writing the book was noticed that all the fashion items starring items include an Isabel very complimentary. My old been able to make a good living more difficult than she expected, that Leandra found appealing Marant top; an Acne jacket, friends don’t really acknowledge from blogging partly through and some chapters had to be there (Tencel harem shorts; and a Simone Rocha eyelet it.” She has three brothers and styling gigs for such events as rewritten several times. “I felt a white muscle T that read dress. But she isn’t wearing any has dinner with “Fashion’s Night bad that I couldn’t articulate “Mom;” a floral-print denim vest) makeup, because she doesn’t her parents every Out” and design what I thought,” she says. were guaranteed to repel men. need any. Five foot eight and Friday night. Her’’ For more photos, see collaborations. She The Canadian Tuxedo Medine writes, “She continued, a size zero, she wears clothes favorite sibling, has designed clothes chapter, in particular, went back ‘How can you possibly like those with great aplomb. her older brother WWD.com/eye. for PJK and Gryphon; and forth quite a few times. (For shorts? You’re a man repeller, The writer is as quick-witted Haim, has just created shoes for Del the uninitiated, a Canadian a bona fide man repeller.’ She and outspoken in person as she is launched his own Toro and sneakers for Tuxedo is an all-denim outfit.) said it so matter-of-factly — like on the Web and on paper. Asked jewelry line, Khai Khai, and she Superga, and designed jewelry Medine notes that she was it was ridiculous that I could whether her husband was taken is helping him with it. for Dannijo. recently talking with a friend have possibly suggested my love aback when he learned that Medine is frequently asked Medine’s grandfather was about tattoos, which she’s life was a failure for any other she details losing her virginity for advice by aspiring bloggers, her first relative to read the definitely not in favor of. “We reason; like the answer was so to him in the book, she says no. and says she always tells them “Man Repeller” book, and his decided that tattoos are literally natural and I was being naïve. He already knew what he was not to quit their day jobs. She says response was that it was “OK a cry for help,” she says. “We We had dabbled with the notion getting into when he married her, that she hasn’t had any blowback for a first book,” she says. Her wanted to say, “I wish I had of man repelling — that women she explains, adding, “I’m an 87 from readers for putting ads father began reading it, but been around to help before you so invested in their sartorial percent extrovert on the Myers- on her blog, since they’re all was put off by a couple of racy decided to yell using your body.’” conquests are bound for a life of Briggs [personality test] scale.” “clearly marked as such,” as are incidents early on. Her mother’s — LORNA KOSKI eye ; k Fal n Eva by

ch a o C ; ski w bro ichner Da E e a v b te Ku S by

photo

others

ris all Pa LEANDRA’S LEGION OF LOOKS (from left): With Dani Stahl front row at Yigal Azrouël spring 2013; at H&M’s Maison Martin Margiela launch in October; with Lily Kwong at Prabal Gurung fall; at Paris Fashion Week, fall; at Coach’s summer party on the High Line in June.

w05a010a;12.indd 10 8/2/13 5:45 PM 08022013174915 WWD monday, august 5, 2013 11 WWD.COM

expand into original reporting East. The ads feature up-and- what will a dress a day do? and photography with coming French model Loulou The customers at One Dress Fashion scoops contributions from RZ Studio, Robert wearing Milly ready-to- a Day, a Web site launching the Rachel Zoe Collection team wear and handbags. They were Aug. 26, are bound to find out. and friends and influencers photographed by Cedric Buchet, Created by Bruno Schiavi, whose MEXX MIX-UP: Fifth & Pacific interest in Mexx Lifestyle BV in the fashion and beauty styled by Aleksandra woroniecka company Jupi Corp. partners Cos. Inc. and two of its foreign to Gores for $4 million. industry. The Zoe Report and art-directed by Alex wiederin. with the Kardashian sisters on subsidiaries have settled with — LISA LOCKwOOD will also launch a redesign “My ad campaign heralds the Kardashian Kollection, Gores Malibu Holdings and of its e-mail newsletter with the evolution of Milly and One Dress a Day will offer a Mexx Europe International VERA’S wHITE-OUT: Brides-to-be a mobile-friendly format highlights my logo redesign. dress style daily at an average BV, whereby Fifth & Pacific need not panic when passing that integrates content and My collection has evolved price of $169. Manufactured paid them $22 million to by Vera wang’s darkened commerce. The company’s considerably, as has my domestically, the dresses will settle all claims arising from store on New York’s Madison social media following has customer. Now is the right feature beading, classic cuts a complaint filed by Gores last Avenue. The Upper East grown to nearly seven million, time, and it’s an exciting and feminine silhouettes. Jan. 25 in which Gores claimed Side boutique is about to be and subscribers to The Zoe moment to communicate “I always try and look $25 million in damages arising refurbished by Brian Sawyer Report now total nearly it directly to the at gaps in the market and from alleged breaches of the of Sawyer-Berson, who is 500,000. — MARCY MEDINA consumer,” said Michelle come up with something merger agreement related also finessing a store for the Smith, cofounder and new that nobody else to the sale of the company’s designer on Rodeo Drive in MILLY’S MOMENT: After 13 years designer of Milly. is doing out there. At global Mexx business. Beverly Hills. The uptown in business, Milly has finally Smith noted three in the morning, Gores, a Los Angeles private locale’s interior will be recast caught the advertising bug. It that Robert “really I stood upright equity firm, acquired an 81.75 in the dark gray-black-white will launch its first ad campaign encapsulates in my bed and percent majority stake in Mexx palette that has become a this fall in such magazines as the Milly woman thought, Wouldn’t International for about $85 signature for the designer’s Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, perfectly.” The it be amazing if I million from Liz Claiborne Inc., other bridal stores, “but with T: The New York Times Style images were meant tortured my team now known as Fifth & Pacific, a slightly different, more Magazine, InStyle and New York to portray how Milly and launched a new in November 2011. Claiborne classical slant out of respect magazine, as well as several defines “luxurious dress every day, 365 retained an 18.25 for the Carlyle additional U.S. titles and some and contemporary days of the year?” percent stake in For more [hotel] and our 24- international magazines in fashion with a said Schiavi. “No the business. scoops, see year history there,” Europe, Asia and the Middle feminine edge,” other company has According to a Wang said. said Smith, who launched a brand new filing Friday with WWD.com And for the next declined to disclose product every single the Securities month or so, antsy the fall ad budget. day with a brand new and Exchange brides can still see Milly has been ad campaign and a Commission, the complaint her wedding gowns by busy on several new styling tip.” included breaches of tax making an appointment for the fronts. The company Although dresses, and tax-related covenants, company’s offices on East 26th is aggressively which are sized from XS breaches of interim operating Street in Manhattan. expanding in the to XL, are introduced daily, covenants, breaches of — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Middle East and will they will be available for 30 reimbursement obligations open four freestanding days or until supplies run related to employee ZOE MEDIA EXPANDS: Rachel stores in Qatar, Dubai out. The target customer is bonuses and working capital Zoe’s Zoe Media Group has (two units) and Kuwait “anyone from the ages of 25 adjustments. The complaint added to its ranks with the over the next several to 40,” explained Schiavi. also included demand for appointment of Tom Balamaci months, with five more “We have maxidresses; we payment of previously as general manager, Megan to open over the next have body-con dresses; we disclosed dispute resolution Gustashaw as editorial director few years. A newly have skater dresses, a little proceedings that were and Andrea Sexton and Julie designed e-commerce site bit of everything. We are required to be made under Jakoubek as digital sales will launch in September trying to make sure we have the merger agreement, which directors. With the addition that will include a blog by styles you can wear from the concluded that Fifth & Pacific of Gustashaw, previously at Smith. — L.L. desk to dinner. ” owed about $5 million to Glamour, Ralph Lauren and One Dress a Day will be Gores. In connection with that PopSugar, The Zoe Report PICK A DRESS: If an available to customers in settlement, Fifth and Pacific will amplify its shopping apple a day keeps An offering from 28 countries at the outset. also sold its noncontrolling content in a visual format and An image from Milly’s fall campaign. the doctor away, One Dress a Day. — RACHEL BROwN

responses” to the covers, and jokingly warned that “the following article MeMo pad contains serious abuses of caps lock.” U.S. GQ’s social media editor Nate {Continued from page 9} Erickson was caught in the fusillade of STICKING UP FOR ONE DIRECTION: Word to abuse after he drew the sniper laser of the wise: Do not tick off One Direction fans’ wrath to himself with the tweet, For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. fans. Don’t let their average ages fool “‘fandom’ people are the scariest people you, they are a violent bunch, as both in the universe.” He was then targeted the British and American editions of by tweets, including one suggesting that GQ discovered this week when the he “go to Wal-Mart, buy some damn band’s legions of fans suffered a sense- intelligence and burn in hell.” Spaces of-humor failure after the band tweeted “All credit goes to our trans-Atlantic a link to preview the five individual brethren at British GQ, who’ve been COMMERCIAL covers of the British magazine. enjoying your feedback to their One REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio A worrying number of the band’s 13.8 Direction interview just as much as we Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking million followers took umbrage at the have,” said Erickson in an online article novelty embellishments NYC, China & India 212-971-9101 [email protected] magazine’s cover lines, for U.S. GQ, in which he PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Subscribe threatening all sorts of sarcastically deflected the PRODUCTIONS violent comeuppance at “praise” to the correct title. 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Full service shop to the trade. today! the misrepresentation The September 2013 Menswear Showrooms Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 of their idol’s sexual issue of British GQ, with D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 morality. Harry Styles, who its five different covers Showrooms & Lofts has a reputation for liking featuring all of the band BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Call 800.289.0273 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail the ladies, especially older members, went on sale on ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 ones, appears on his cover Thursday. This is the first for individual with the lines, “He’s up all time that One Direction subscriptions, night to get lucky” and a has been featured on the quote from the interview cover of the magazine, HANDBAG or email SAMPLEMAKER inside, “It’s definitely less which has a circulation of Handbag factory needs experienced than 100,” in response 131,120 across print and pattern and sample maker. All materi- [email protected] als: leather, fabric, exotic. 341 W 38th to a direct question digital editions. St 3fl. Apply in person. concerning the number of At the magazine’s BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Styles’ conquests. Harry Styles on the cover of London headquarters at Overhead, EDI, financing, and ship- ping costs hurting your profitability? Seeing those lines British GQ. Vogue House on Hanover Successful company with all the above sparked an avalanche of Square, security told is looking to merge a business or individual with existing product sales into tweets aimed at WWD, “We are aware of the Twitter its structure. Great opportunity to grow your business! Email inquiries @BritishGQ, many suggesting that backlash, and we’ve been told to keep an to: [email protected] suicide by the magazine’s staff eye out. We haven’t seen anything yet.” would be a suitable apology for All of which begs the question: What misrepresenting the pop star’s would One Direction say about all this? reasons for being “up all night.” They are, as British GQ deftly pointed (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] British GQ’s Web site posted an out, the faces of an Office Depot anti- article with the “most terrifying cyber-bullying campaign. — JULIA NEEL

w05a011a.indd 11 8/4/13 2:34 PM 08042013143546 12 WWD MONDAY, AUGUST 5, 2013 WWD.COM Retailers Still Finding Footing for B-t-s

{Continued from page one} “Some of what we’re seeing reflects about making purchases specifically “A lot of people are doing their buy- concerns of a slowing economic re- timed to the opening of school. ing online with a variety of devices covery, but the specific back-to-school Asked to identify specific retailers these days, and taking advantage of figures also represent a shift in con- from which they would buy, Amazon the 24/7/365 nature of it,” said Robert sumer buying habits,” Passikoff noted. topped the list, appearing in 95 percent Passikoff, founder and president of “Retailers may be running back-to- of shoppers’ responses, followed by Brand Keys. “Consumers now have a lot school ads right now, but they’ve been Wal-Mart at 93 percent and Target at 90 more options than they did just a few discounting and couponing for the past percent. Macy’s, which, like the rest of years ago, and more and more are tak- seven months. Educated consumers the department store universe, failed to ing advantage of them.” have already stockpiled supplies for the make the 2012 top 10, was fourth at 87 Brand Keys’ annual survey of shop- first day of school.” percent. Zappos was fifth at 85 percent; pers’ intentions for the season revealed TJ Maxx and Kohl’s tied for sixth at 82 not just less urgency but less intent to percent; Best Buy and Foot Locker tied buy. In a study covering 10,000 households for eighth at 79 percent, and Staples was and begun just more than two weeks ago, 10th at 75 percent. on July 20, the research firm found that 10.1% Last year, Wal-Mart was first, fol- among households engaging in b-t-s buy- lowed by Zappos, Amazon, a tie between ing, the annual budget for the year had DROP IN HOUSEHOLD BUDGETS FOR B-T-S, J. Crew and Apple, and another tie be- fallen to $607, down 10.1 percent from the ACCORDING TO BRAND KEYS. tween Target and TJ Maxx. Rounding $675 budget for the 2012 season. out the top 10 in 2012 were Bed Bath This is a slightly larger dip than the & Beyond, Staples and another tie, be- one projected by the National Retail Discount stores remained the most tween Radio Shack and Walgreens. Federation in its annual b-t-s projec- popular destination for b-t-s shop- “There aren’t that many people who tion, which called for a 7.8 percent drop pers, with the 97 percent of consum- still ‘need’ a tablet or smartphone or in household b-t-s budgets to $634.78. ers intending to shop in them up four laptop,” Passikoff added in reference to Although “intent-to-purchase” stud- points from the year-ago figure. Those Apple’s failure to make the list after its ies are in no sense a guarantee of the intending to shop online soared to 72 strong showing last year — a situation outcome to follow, they tend to provide percent of the sample, a 34-point leap. reflected in Apple’s most recent finan- a capsule of the mood of the general Department stores were designated by cial results. public at the time, and this year’s indi- 28 percent of respondents, a 44-point If retailers fail to convert the open- cations were hardly positive: drop, and specialty retailers by 30 per- ing of schools into the large increases Q Spending on apparel, while still the top cent, down 10 points. Catalogues were they’d like, it won’t be for lack of trying. purchase category, was expected to fall 29 designated by 35 percent of those sur- Promotions among stores of all sizes percent from last year’s study to $301. veyed, up three points. have been persistent, both online and Q Spending on footwear was down 23 “Some consumers could be buying off, with summer clearance and fall in- percent to $110. from the ‘clicks’ portion of clicks-and- centives often overlapping. Q Spending on tablets and smartphones mortar and indicating they’re shopping But even with better job numbers was seen dropping nearly a third — 32 online,” Passikoff noted. “Someone and the recent return to more normal percent — to $110. buying from macys.com might be weather patterns, building on last year’s Q Spending on supplies and books- checking off ‘online’ instead of ‘depart- sizable gains has been challenging. study aids was projected to decline 60 ment store.’” Stifel Nicolaus will hold a conference percent and 56 percent, respectively, to But there are also indications of in- call today to discuss “A Few Bright Spots $39 and $10. creased thriftiness and less concern in an Otherwise Drab Outlook for BTS.”

India Revises FDI Regulations Retailers Add 46,800 Jobs in July going factors for department {Continued from page one} sumption is still high. “We estimate that India’s By KRISTI ELLIS stores is the whole issue of opposed to opening up the retail sector, citing consumption market·· will grow approximately 3.6 lack of physical expansion,” damage to mom-and-pop stores, a large voter times in size over the next decade,” said a report, WASHINGTON — Retailers Hoyt added. “Some of the big base and still making up more than 90 percent “The Tiger Roars: An In-Depth Analysis of How picked up the pace of hir- players, including Wal-Mart of all retail in India, which is still unorganized. a Billion Plus People Consume,” released by The ing in July, adding 46,800 jobs and to a lesser extent Target, “Investors also need an assurance that there Boston Consulting Group and Confederation of as employment gains in the are more interested in open- will be no possible reversal in the policy owing to Indian Industry in February 2012. “Overall con- overall economy continued at ing supercenters, which are the political situation,” said Kumar Rajagopalan, sumption expenditure, estimated at $991 billion a steady pace, the U.S. Labor not classified as department chief executive officer of the Retailers in 2010, is likely to grow to $3.6 trillion in 2020.” Department’s monthly employ- stores. In addition, a num- Association of India. Analysts warn that the process will still be ment report showed Friday. ber of department stores The earlier proposal that 50 percent of the slow. Crisil Research pointed out some of the fac- Apparel and accessories are struggling a bit with J.C. money invested by foreign companies needed to tors, including the “unstable political climate in stores added 4,300 jobs to Penney being the most promi- be spent on back-end logistics, including logistics, India, impending the parliamentary elections of employ 1.45 million in July. nent example.” warehouses and packaging, within the first three General merchandise stores, in- Douglas Handler, chief years of the first amount brought also has been cluding discounters and depart- U.S. economist at IHS Global amended. Now only 50 percent of the initial $100 ment stores, added 9,100 jobs to Insight, said about 25 percent million brought in needs to be mandatorily invest- Investors need an employ 3.1 million. Department of monthly, job gains came ed in those areas. stores added 200 jobs to employ from the overall retail sector, Foreign companies have complained that this assurance that there will be 1.5 million in July. “suggesting that the current investment level was valid in the case of super- The overall economy added pace of consumer spending re- markets, which would need to spend heavily in 162,000 jobs in July, coming in mains sustainable.” those areas anyway, but what about companies no possible reversal in below economists’ expecta- “While average hourly that manufactured and sourced entirely from tions, while the unemploy- earnings were down very other locations? the policy owing to the ment rate fell 0.2 percent to slightly in July, overall earn- As Crisil Research pointed out in June, “The 7.4 percent. ings are growing slightly sourcing and back-end investment requirements political situation. “Overall, the report was a faster than inflation (as mea- being laid down are worrisome for foreign re- bit disappointing relative to sured by the personal con- tailers operating in retail verticals apart from — KUMAR RAJAGOPALAN, expectations, but I think that sumption deflator), suggest- food and grocery, as segments such as apparel was not true for retail, where ing that the current consumer and electronics do not require huge back-end RETAILERS ASSOCIATION OF INDIA we had the strongest month- spending contribution to eco- investments.” to-month job growth since last nomic growth will continue,” Third, the condition that many large compa- 2014, will lead to a delay in investments by for- November,” said Scott Hoyt, Handler added. nies have been objecting to — a requirement to eign retailers.” Crisil’s report also mentioned that director of consumer econom- Jack Kleinhenz, chief econ- source 30 percent of products sold from small and it would take some time, perhaps two to three ics at Moody’s Analytics. omist at the National Retail medium-size businesses in India — has been sim- years, “before the retailer can roll out back-end Hoyt noted that the 9,100 Federation, said the “employ- plified so that an investment in plant and machin- and front-end infrastructure needed for a sizable increase in general merchan- ment trend is positive yet lack- ery of $2 million will now be considered part of scale of operations.” dise store jobs was the best luster,” adding that NRF ex- the 30 percent, provided they are bought within The new rules apply only to multibrand re- growth since April. Apparel pects the economy to pick up the first five years of opening. However, the ear- tailing. Monobrand stores are allowed to be specialty store job gains were in the second half. lier investment required was $1 million, and dou- wholly owned by overseas firms,·· although few modest, although below the In the apparel and textile bling the amount needed to be spent could only Western fashion companies have gone into India pace of growth in the prior manufacturing sector, apparel make it more complex for some retailers. on their own. The latest fashion brand to enter two months, while depart- employment fell 800 to 140,700 A senior government official told WWD that the the market is Michael Kors, which last week re- ment stores “did not contrib- in July. Mills making apparel amendments have been made following several vealed plans to open a 1,500-square-foot store in ute much” to the retail gains, fabrics and yarns added 200 rounds of discussions with global retailers such New Delhi’s DLF Emporio. The store will carry Hoyt said, with their “third jobs to employ 114,900, while as Carrefour and Wal-Mart. Michael Kors Collection ready-to-wear and hand- straight month of minimal mills making home furnishings Although the $500 billion retail market has bags as well as Michael Michael Kors accesso- job gains.” products trimmed 200 jobs to slowed from the earlier 20 percent growth, con- ries, footwear, eyewear and rtw. “I think one of the big on- employ 113,600.