PIONEER TALES
OF
EUREKA SPRINGS
AND CARROLL COUNTY
BY
CORA PINKLEY-CALL
EUREKA SPRINGS, ARKANSAS
(COPYRIGHT, 1930.)
CORA PI~KLEY-CALL
DEDICATION To the men and women, who, through dangers and hardships, pushe•d their way into the mountains and paved the way to civilization, I dedicate these humble lines; and, lest you and I f,orget, a.nd our children neve•r know, what it has cost to make thls country wha1t it is to day, I have ga.thered th€se "tales'' from the lives of the men and women who lived: them, and now present them as a.· memorial to the pioneers of Eureka Springs and Carroll County, Arkansas. C. P. C.
ARI{~\:NS~L\.S A·ND HER PI01NEERS John 11!. H arloio IIere'8 to dear old Arkansas and ke1" Grand old Pioneer8 I 011i in the traclcless s1Da,mps and 1.ooorJg, They built for coming years. Braving the hardships of ea:rrly toil, And the dangers of fang and clau,, ''1 1il tlte open spots of their cabin lots (lreiv into A rlcansas.
And here's to her grand old pioneers, For where1Je1" her flag did wa 1ve, Th.roitgh the roaring h.ell of sh.ot and Sh,ell, they followed it to the gra,ve. 1'hey gave their blood and treasure Nor counted the sacri flee; But whatever duty fell their lot, 1rhey 1oillingly paid the price.
They had no thought for glorv's po1np, .Nor an ingloriou8 pride, B·ut heeded quick 10 hen duty called They ga.ve their all and died. ilnd they griroe 'US dear old Arlta.nsa,~ Blne sky and rose's flame, 1Vhere God's own sunlight falls A like on all her ho1nes the same. And h.ere's to the women of tlwse day8, And e1;ery one a q'tteen, _ And do·wn througli all the corning years lV e'll lceep their' 1nernory green. Th.e honor of tho8e_ sacred home.~ They held like bi't.rnished steel, .11nd cha.rity to themz. has ne1;er made a A 1Ja.in appeal. And here's to her toiling th01tsands N ovJ 1nay the spirit that rn,,cule her great A bide ,with the childten of the, PREFACE One of 111y first 1ne1nories is that of sitting before a hnge fire place and listening to uny grandn1other_ I-Iarp and great grand1nother iStonc relate their early experiences. (}reat granny died at the age of lO;J on heu farn1 near l(ings ri ve-r. I ,vas ouly six years of age, but I have a vivid 1ne1nory of standing hy her bedside, ,vith othPr o:f in1y ~n11all cousins, singing ''In the S,veet By and Dy'' for her. I re-1ne1nber how pitifully sn1all and shrunken her forn1 looked in that four-poster bed. I-Ier n1ind ,vas very active np to the very last. She did not ,vant things quie:t and still, and ,vhen those ,vho "sat n1/' with hcu nights ceased talking or reading, she ,vould say, "N o,v talk, sing or do son1ething. I don't ,vant to lie i:1ere and think about dying." '1Vhen at last she ,vas gone, grand1nod1er ,vas very lonely. She, too, was fond of singing and as ,ve children ·would sing the old hy1nns, the 'tears ,vould often course clown her cheeks, and she ,vould tell us of how she longed to go and be "'ith great granny. She was never irritable and cross wi:~h ns children, but ever: ready to tell us stories, ·wG1ich I n_evcr could hear enough of. She wns delighted -to have n1e read to her and "·e found great coinpanionship in ''Indian 'fales/' "Daniel Boone" and history, nnnch of which she knev{ first-hand. I !think that ,vas the beginning of Pioneer 'fales for I n1ade up 1ny n1ind at an early age to soo1e day write a book of the stories w:hich she and others or the early., settlers told n1e . ....i\..fter gr,andrr1othcr ,vas gone I ahnost pes'~ered the life out of father and 1nother for stories of adventure and hunting ,vhich I n1:ade ernde notes of. Later I began to inter:vie,v other old-ti1ners and take notes, ,vhich read like real adventure to rr1e, and as I realized they ,vere fast disappear:ing and no one would ever kno,v about their heroisrn, I decided to preserve ,then1 in book forin for the future generations. Most of thrnn have passed ~nvay, and fe,v indeed are left to celebrate- the '~jubilee year" of Enreka Springs ·which becan1e an incorpor,ated city in the year of 1880--jnst fifty years ago. This book also deals ,vit h the discoverv of the [nedicinal of properties of what ,vas then known as the Indian spring and the na1ning of Eurrka Springs. CORL\. PINI(LEY-CA.LL. Pioneer Tales N.Al\fING OF C)tl?ROJ"L C()UNTY AND EA.RI,JY IIISTORY Korenrber 1, 18JB, Carroll connty "'as fonned. The na1ne ,ras given it in honor of Charles CarT,oll of Carrollton, a dis tinguished Marylander. The first officers ,vere: Sheriff, 'f. Il Clark; clerk, John Bush; treasurer, A. ~l. tVilson; coroner, 1\brahnun Shelley; surveyor, ,villia1n Nooner; as.sessor It I~. l~vans; state senator, C.R. Sannder~; re1)resentative, I.1. R. Tully. The first conrthouse of Carroll connty ,vas a t,vo story log house at Carrollton, and had a hnge fireplace in one end. The second courthouse ,vas built in 1844-45, at a cost of $3,000; also at Qarrollton. 'fhis building was destroyed by fire jn 18;'S!) . .A.fter the ,var, in 1865, another log building ,vas erected and ,vas one of the first buildings , built in Carrollton after the ,var. It ,vas destroyed by fire in the follo,ving year, and ,vhat records that 1~1ad escaped previous fires ·were then destroyed. 'fhey had been preserved during the ,var in a vault in the Carrollton cenneterv. ,J. ,T. Gri1n ,vas the first sheriff to serve ti after the "~ar . ....L\.fter the for111ation of Boone county in 18H9 an agitation for a "n1ore centrally located county seat'' ,vas put on foot, which finally resulted in Berryville beco1ning the county seat in 1875. 1\. te111porary building ,vas pnuchnsed, and in the year of 1880 a Pttihstantial ibrirk bnilding ,vas erected, and is still in use. Carroll county has t,vo county seats-Berryville for Eastenn District and Eureka Springs ~ for ,Y estern District. Eureka Springs courthouse is built of natiYe stone and is located on South l\fain street. The first jail lvas built at Carrollton in 1840, · but ,vas des troyed by flee during the ,var. The Recond jail built ,vas at I~erryville in 1876. It ,ras also destroyed by fire and was supposed to have been set on fl.De by a lil\an confined in it. He ,vas burned to deat!h. J. ,,r. I◄~reen1an ,vas sheriff at that ti1ne. The first church in Carroll county of ,vhich I can find record, was at Carrollton in 1830, ,vith Revs. Pearson and Buchannan, Cun1berland Preshyterinns, as leaders. 8 PIONEER TALES 1 1 M0UN·TAiJN MEA1Do,v MAS:SACR:E Perhaps it ·would add n1uch · interest to ou:n history to know tha't the greater part of the people ·killed in '~The Mountain Meadow Massacre" were fron1 Carroll count~many from 13erryville and Carrollton. It ·was one of the most cruel and treacherous deeds that history records, and for that reason it is relat!ed here: In the spring of 1857 an emigrant train was organized in Nor,th·western Arkansas, and ,principally in Carroll county, by Capt. Alexander Fandher, and in due ti111e set out for the jour ney across tJhe plains and the ;Rocky Mountains to ·C-alifornia. Capt. Fancher w·as a native of 'fennessee; he married in Cutn11herland county, Ill., and sett.led on 1Osage. :He had made two overland journeys to 'California, and ,vas well qualified to conduct them thither. His train consisted of about forty wagons, several carriages in which some of the la.diee. rode, nearly a 1,000 head of cattle, several hundred horses, including a stallion val tled at $2,000, and was said to have been the fine.st that crossed the plains in 1857. There were forty or fifty men. The entire com:pany were in comfortaible circumstances; they had with them valuables and n1loney which, with the property referred to, has been estimated at $70,000. Pt'ogress of th.e Train.--The train left Arkansas in the spring of 1857, passed through Kansas and ·Colorado by the accustomed route, and reached 8alt Lake 1City in .A.ugust. From here "the sounthern route," through Provo, Nephf, Fillmore and Cedar City, was taken, and at the last named point the pariy reached the Spanisli trail, their r,)ad to Southern California. They had not 'traversed t1he favored land of Saints n1any diys 1before it became apparent that they were regarded with suspicion and aversion. It was in vain that supplies of food and forage were negotiated for; they :were ''friend).ess as in a voiceless desert." The Federal power ,vas openly defied in U1tah, and armed troops were on the ,march toward its borders. Brigha1m Young openly declared that his "protection" would be withdrawn from e1ni grants pas.ging through the Territory, and, under a combination of the most unfavorable circumstances, Capt. Fancher and lhis party slo·wly approached the melancholy tern1ination of their journey. 'They crossed the Great Basin; they clim'bed up · the southern ri!m, and on this border of Mo.rmonism they stopped for a few days, to let their cattle revel in the rank, course moun tain grass, before they went on the "Ninety Mile Desert..': PIONEER TALES G,.. The location of t!he Mountain Meado-ws, their stopping place, is in the south,vestern corneri of Utah, in the present county of ,v ashington, about eight miles south of the village -of Pinto. The place is a pass, sometimes called a valley, about five miles in length and one in width, hut running to a rather narro,v point at the southwest end. At about its center, length,vise, is the "divide" bet,veen the basin and the Pacific slope, the ascents being very gradual, and at each end is a large spring. At the eastern spring was the house and corral of Jacob Hamlin, Mormon ~uh-agent fori the Pah Utes, ,vho, with so1ne assistance, all ~for1nons, was pasturing catitle on the n1eadows. ,The train passed his place on the 3d day of Septeimber, and encamped at the ·western spring on the 4th. This spring, w!hich is a large one, is in the southern end of 1the narrow part.. The bank rises fi·orr1 it to a height of about eight feet, and fro1n its top there neaches a level stretch of some 200 yards, upon which the e;rnigrants en- camped. · The FiJ·st Attaclc occurred on ~Ion 1neado,vs, under Maj. John IIigbee, ·vvas held; the orders of Pres ident l-Ieight, of )Cedar City, directed that. the entire pa1~ty should be externninated, ,v·as uead; and after prayer (?) l-Iighee announced in confident tones, 1~hat he had Kie: evidence of divine approval. 'The "higher law,'' in all its naked enonnity, ,ras to be executed by treachery. On the 111.orning of I◄"'riday, Septe111ber 11, 1837, John D. Lee and ~V-illia1n Bate111an advanced to,vard the e11nigrants ,vi 1th a w·hite flag, and ,vere 1nct by one of the party. Lee explained it.hat the Indians ,vere ·n1uch excited because of certain ac~s of violrnce con1111itted hy the party, and v:1at the only way of paci fying thean·; ,vas a suruender to the l\!Io1111on '111ilitia." 1They agreed to do so. Their anns were placed in ,vagons brought by lJCe, ,vith the ~nnall children; the ,vo1nen and older children follo,ved on foot;· the 1nen, each at the side of a Molllnon, brought np the rear. 'I'hc ,vagons 1:1ad just passed over ithe divide toward the eastern spring, the ,vo111en ,vere a quanter of a 1nile behind, and the 1nen an equal distance behind then1, in a ravine. Suddenly fro111 ~111ong the an1~.Jnshed Indians the fonn of I-Iigbee: appeared on the divide; he n1otio1u~d with his anns, and at once the work or death began. Each n1ilitia:rnan ,vheeled and s1:1ot his inan. 'I'he rifle of John D. Lee cracked, and a wonnded ,vn1nan in the for,vard ,vagon fell fuo1n the seat. The Indians rushed upon the ,von1en. Two young girls escaped son1e distance, but were pur sued by Lee and a1) Indian chief. There is reason to think ~:1ey b~gged for n1ore than life. Burial.-October 2, 18;37, the scene of the n1assacre ,vas vis ited by eleven ~formons, secretly escaping fro111 lTtah. They 1nention t,vo piles of bodies, one con1posed of ,von1en and chil dren, the other of 1nen. The bodies ,ver,e entirely nude; all ,vere n1ore or less torn by ,volves except one, that of a lvon1an, ,v hich lay apart fron1j the rest, and s1ho,ved no signs of decay. In the s1)ring of 1859 Capt. TI. P. Can1pbell, with t,vo companies of infantry and one of dragoon~, passed through the meado,vs and buried the ren1ains of t,venty-six of the vic'ti111s. May 20, 18;39, Maj. ,Ja·mes Henry Carlton, 'United State3 Anny, buried the disjointed bones of thirty-four skeletons in a grave on the north-= ern side or the ditch. A rude n1ontunent, c;onical in form, and fifty feet in circun1ference at the base and t,vel ve feet high, ,vas erected over this griave. 'fhis ,vas surmounted by a red-cedar cross, upon the transverse part. of ,vhich ,vas carved this inscrip tion: V'JDNGE 1ANCE IS' MIJNE: I WILL RIE'.PAY, SAITH THE LORD. PIONEF.Il 1'ALE8 11 A rude slab of granite, leaning against the northern base of the 1110111.rn1e11t, bore the.;;e ,vords: ·H®RE ONE HUND.RED AND TWENTY M1EIN, WOMEN AlND CHILDREN 'WE·RE MA18'SAORED IN COLD BLOOD, IN SiEPT., 1857. TH1EY ··WERE FROM ARKAJNSA1S J?w llutir·e JYumbe1 1 l{illerl ,vas 121, 10 n't the can1p, 107 at the 1nassacre, yonng Aden and the three sconts. The Property, hy direction of I3righan1 Yonng, was disposed of by I1ee. A portion ,vas given to the Indians; the 1noney ,vas ,kept by I~ee and l(lingens1nith; the bedding nnd clothing ,vere deposited in the tithing house at Cedar City, and ""as con11nonly rieferred to as "property taken at the siege of Sevastopol." The wagons, stock, etc., ""ere disposed of at the tithing house, and the proceeds turned over 'to the Mor1non treasury. l 1 he Sur-vivor8.,_ Ti~1c circ1mnstances o-f the 1nassacre ""ere kno,vn at I__.jos .r\.ngeles:, ·Calif., the .following 1nonth, and on the -last day of the year 1857 ,villia.111 C. Mitchell, ex-clerk of Carroll county, and then a 1n1en1ber of the :State senate, appnised a frie11d of the- death of his son and hrother-in-ltnv, ,vith their families, nn1nbering hvcnty-four persons; the Legislature of .ilrkansas took in1n1ediate action, as did ·also the National Congress. Dr. '-Tacoh Forney, superintendent of Utah, learned tihe ,vhereabouts of the ~.nrviving children June 22, 1858; they had been distriih uted an1ong Mormon fanl!ilies of the vicinity. '-Tune 29, 185!), fifteen of the1m ,vere placed in charge of ~laj. v,Thiting, United States 1-\.r1ny, who reached Ifort I~eaven,vorth Aug1rnt 25; 1859. I-Iere they ·,rere taken in charge by 1·Villia~n ,c. Mitchell, spe cial agent. of the Government., and reached Carrollton Sep ten1ber 16, 1850. T,vo otheD clhildren, John C. Miller an·d it ·Tackett, ,,,.ere detained in Utah as ,vitnesses. In January, 1860, they ,vere taken 'to "\Vashington by Dr. Forney, and from there to Carrollton by ~Iaj. John !Henry of Van Bnren. The following · is a list of the n3mes, ages and residences of the children re ferred to: Rebecca Dunlap, n, Louisa Dunlap, 7, 1Sarah Dunlap, 4; daugh ters of ,Jesse ,Dunlap, deceased, of Carroll county. Prudence Angeline Dunlap, 7, ,Georgiana 1Dunlap, 4; daughters of L. D. Dunlap, deceased, of ·Marion county.- Elizabeth Il·aker, 8, :Sarah Baker, G, ,villiam B. Baker, 4; heirs of G. ,,r. Baker, deceased, of Carrioll county. 12 PIONEER T AL.ES C._ C. I◄"ancher, 9, 'Tryphena Fancher, 5; heirs of Alexander l1"ancher, deceased, of Carroll county. John C. ~Iiller, 9, Mary l\filler, 7, Joseph Miller, 4; heirs of Joseph M. Miller, deceased, of Cua,vford county .. l\f. 1'ackett, 1,rillia1n /Tackett; heirs of Pleasant Tackett, de ceased, of Carroll county. F. M. Jones, 4, Sophronia. Jones, 7; heirs of J. M. Jones, deceased, of Mar,ion county. John D. Lee ,vas tried and convicted 'twenty years after the commission of his cri111e; he 'Vlas given his choice of being hung, shot. or beheaded. Ile preferred to be shot, and was accordingly executed at Mountain ~Ieadows on Marc'h 23, 1877. PIONEER rfALES 13 PRE-WAR STORIES FIRST SETrT'J""'ERS ON ICEEI.1S CREEI( Bever]y I-Iarp came to· ICeels creek, six miles southeast of Eureka Springs, in the year of 18~4, and settled on what is now know·n as the I~"ranz Johnson farm. It ,vas due to the letters describing the ridhness of the land and the abundance of gNme, that his brother, John I-Iarp, my great grandfather, was induced to con1e the follovving spriing. · They ,vere natives of I{entucky, but ever answering the ca11 of adventure that lured the frontiersman on to ne,v discoveries, they had 1noved to Sweetens Cove, Tennessee; then as that country began to fill up, they wended their ,vay into the 1Ozark Q1ills of .A.rkansas. Her:e they· found that for ·which they had sought-rich land free- for the taking; wild game and adventure. It. ·was, co1n parati vely speaking, "a land flo,ving with 1nilk · and honey." 'There ~as one other fan1ily living. on ICeels creek . by the na111e of ,vilson; and to the best of my kno,vledge, and tJhat of lthe old settlers, -,Vilsons were the first white settlers in this part of the country. l\'Irs. vVilson told the I-Iarps that when they can1e there ,vere no people here, and that ·when they go,t. the logs of their stable to a height. where they would be safe from "varmints,'' including bears,_ wolves· and panthers, tlhat they put puncheons across the logs to sleep on, and that pan thers and ,volves would come' and pick up the. crun1bs fro1n ,vhere they had. eaten. Their first.· building ·was a log stable for their stock, ,vhich ~hey had to sit up· at nights and guard, until lthe stable 1vas high enough to accommodate the st.ock; then they slept on their puncheon bed over them until it was con1pleted. Women guarded their gardens and fields to keep wild turkeys and deer out, and ·were lucky if they succeeded in raising enough for their sin1ple ,vants. 'fheir cornmeal ,vas grated on a tin which was driven full of nail holes, and the rough side w_as used to grate the corn ,vhich could· be· done only at a certain stage. Lateri they ground it, or pounded it between two stones. Their wheat was cut, bound in sheaves, and a place cleared of stones in the field, and the bundles thrown on it and cattle or horses driven over it until it ,vas trampled out, then gathered and ,vinnowed and put through a hand 1nill, which they· had 14 PIONEER TALES invented. !T1he flour ,vas ratheri blue but they n1anaged to eat it. 1There ,vere no 111ills, no stores any,vhere near. They spnn and 1vove ,their own clothes fro111 flax, ,vool and cotton. ,v e still have in our possession t.he old spinning ,vheel and 100111 on ,vhich ,vas ,voven the clotll1es our people wore. Our folks never had '~stoue boughten" clothes fro111 the ti1ne fthey ca1ne here until n1y grandfather, ,vas grown and he freight- ed provisions in across the Boston unountains with oxen tean1s. They lived stunptnonsly, as their cellaris and "s111oke houses'' ,vere well supplied with Nature's own goodies. ,Bear 1nent, venison, ,vild turkey, ,vild 1honey and wild fruits ,vere plentiful, foli Na;ture had supplied our native hills ,vith a lavish hand. 1Ve still have plenty of ,vild honey, huckleberries, ·wild phnns and persimn1ons, -which 1nany pe'Ople prefer to elates, but the ,vild ga1ne is no longer plentiful except ,volves, foxes, and son1e panthers, ,v hich yet do the far1ners 1nnch da111age. 'l'he early settlers could not raise hogs for ti-~1e bears, but bear 1neat was used instead, and very closely resembled pork ,vith the exception that one could eat all the bear •111eat they ,vanted and it ·would not nauseate theun as pork fnt often does. Stock ,vere not fed during the ,vinter-only when there wns snow-as the hills were covered in what the settlers called turkey peas, ,vild rye and winter grass. 11he fnr1ners began n1aking their gardens in I1"ebruary as the seasons ,vere 1nore n1ild t!I1en than no,v. Cabins ,vere n1ade of logs and put to gether ,vithout nails; the logs ,vere so matched t1hat they held together and the clapboard shingles were held on ,vith hewn logs. 1The doors were also of clapboards ,and the first settlers had· no ,vindows but had chimneys made of stone or sticks, daubed wit!h clay, and their cabins ,vere also chinked with clay. I kno,v of one near l(ings river ,,vhich is still standing. VAUG I-INS AN'.D S1'0NI~S In a few more years two o(her ·fa111ilies arrived from S,Yeetens Cove, Tennessee-Solcti111on Stone, n1y grandn1other's stepfather, and J)aniel and Sam \T aughn, ,vhose descendants are still living ar,ound Clifty. Daniel and Sn1m Vanghn had much n1oney ,vhich !they brought with t1~1e1n in saddle bags and buried 'When they arrived here. vVhen Daniel ca1ne to die, he ordered Samuel to go and dig up their n1oney, ,vhich he did, and in rr1y grand n1other's presence divided it. She was very n1uch frightened by so n111ch 1money, and the careless way jn ,vhich they h11ndlcd PIONEER 'fALES 15 ilt. I3ut there ,vere no robbers in the hills then, and they ,vere never robbed or n1olested . .Stone had left everything he had in Tennessee, and ran ffwny ,Yi~h his grandchild, little Ilets ,vilson, whose parents had both died of what the- 1I 1ennesseeans called 1nilk sick fever. They had given 1ny graud1nother "IJttle Bets" as she had cared for her fro111 birth and ahr~ost idolized her, as did her stepfather, Stone. ('trandn1other ,vas only a child herself, but ,viith greatgranny's and Stone's help, reared little l{ets to ,vo111anhood in the hills near Eureka Springs. 'fhe gr,andparents on ,Vilson's side also wanted "Little Bets'' and can1e so near ~~ealing her 'lhat Stone realized they ,vould, 11nless he took her a,vay. 'l'his he did, leaving 260 acres of land in the heart of 'l'ennessee, and everything else he pos sessed, except w!hat he could bring in wagons, and fro111 that dnv,, until this his land has never been reclaimed. Ile had a dnnghter that was vei"',y jealous of n1y grandn1other and "Litt le l~ets," as she believed they would sorrie clay heir her fatheri's estate equally ,vith her. She stole all his papers and deeds ialld hid theirr1 in a lhollow log and a forest fire destroyed them, aud no one ever tried to reclairn the estate. Stone owned 1nanv., slaves and they ,vere especially fond of "~Iiss Nancy" as they eal led 1ny granclHnother, but before ithey left she insisted on itheir freedom and Stone freed then1 all. One old slave said in pa1tiug, '~1\1iss Nancy, I'se black here, but ,vhen I 111eets you np in lleben, I'll be ,v hite, too." Tears ,vould con1e, in grand- 111other's eyes ,vhen she ,vould tell about i\t. Another incident I recall was rher telling of the slaves brought in to he sold. She said they would bring as n1any as a hundred i11 a group, chained to one another by the ,vrist., and sell then1 on the block at public auction in sight of her ho1ne. ,vhen she ,vas gr,own she married I.;ewis I-Iarp, and they moved on Brush creek near Fayetteville, ,vhere their first hvo children ,vere horn, n1y n1other being the second. '1,hey then 1noved back to !(eels creek and settled on ,vhat is know·n no,v as the lVlcShane place, ,vhen my mother ,vas four years old. Laiter they n1oved farther up I(ee]s cueek on ·what ihas ever been kuown as the old Lewis IIarp place, and were living here ,vhen the Civil war came. ,v e have heard a great deal said about the Indians being here, which is a fact, but it ·was over 100 years ago, for there were 110 Indians here "~hen our people first ca.me, and outside 16 PIONEER TALES of one- band of seven Indians, and a fe"r striaggling Indians, 1there ·were no'· Indians in t!his vicinity for that period of tin1e. But they had been gone only a short tin1e ,vhen our peoi)le •Caine, but there was absoluitely no one living near here "rhen they ca111e . . .A.nothen fa,mily that came here in the early days was the Clarks. Old Uncle 1,cnn Clark ca1~uied the chains to survev ti practically all the first selttlers' land w!hen they 1nade govern1nent entry. By the tin1e ithe Civil ,var broke out there ,vere- several farnilies in Carroll county. At thalt tu1ne there· ,vas a blazing star seen in the heavens and griandfather said, "we ,vill watch that star nn ,vere at the 1n1.ercy of ;~he buslnvhackers, ,vho insulted, killed, and jeopardized the fa1nilies of the 1nen ·who ,vere fighting. Oft tiunes they 1vould prepare a 1neal only to have then1 con1e in and eat every bite before their hungry children. .r\.t last. in desperation they conceived the idea of going to Cassville where the Union n1en were stationed, but how? Their horses ·were all gone . .At last 1no1ther and a untie decided to break a tea1n of 'rexas :long horned steers. 'fhey confined the1n in a stable and a sy1npathizing neighbor 1nan cn,n1e at nig1~1t and helped then1 place a yoke upon their necks. 1,he yokes ,vcre sa,ved out of wood and fastened around the s(eers' necks with ,vooden pins. t1~hc girls could not take thern off and on so the oxen had to ·wear the1n day and night. After they had becon1e accust0i1ned 'to 'the yoke, they then hitclhed the1n to the ,vagon. 'fhey also broke ft tea,111 of four-year-old bnlls, and ,vi,'th these fo~1r oxen hitched to a wagon they started north, 'or at least they thought they ""ere going north. 'fhey drove until 1nidnight; then stopped at a far111house nnd asked for fire and "rater. 1T!he n1an ·wanted to kno,v who they ,vere, and where they ·were going. This my grandrnotheu ans,vered truthfully and was· pro1nptly told to 1nove on, 1that in a short distance they ·would find both fire nnd water. Grandn1other sur1nisecl they ,vere sending thein1 to the Southern a11ny, but they ·had to do something, so they drove on. '!'hey soon can1e 'to a fire and a spring. ..A.fiter ,varuning themselves and drying their wet bedclothing as best they could, they piled into then1. The next n1or,ning they found they had slept. on the Pea Iiidge battle field, the battle having been fought on]y a few 1nont!hs previous. llorses' bones lay around thcn1 and they had slept over the gra.. ves of the dead. 'fhey lvere told by a man to drive on a certain distance and they ,vould find sn1ne one to take then1 on. Grand1nother was sure they ·would be sent back horne, but all they could do was to go. 'fhey soon came to an encan1pn1ent of Southern soldiers · who detailed a guard to esco1,t. t hen1 back hon1e. This they did very n1uclh to grnndim:otheu's chagrin. The girls refused to drive the oxen and the soldiers did not kno,v how, and it was ,vith 1nuch delay they nrri ved hon1e. Grandn1other told the 1nen they did not need to unload the ,vagon for they ,vere going north and could not keep the1n fron1 it. The men le:ftt a guard to see that they did not leave but after three days the guard left. then1. 1,hat night the girls killed and cooked a hog and 18 PIONEER TALES ======---_ -_ -_ -_ -_-_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -__ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_ -_-_ -__:-_ -_-_ -- once rnor,e prepared to go. 'fhey had gone only about eight n1iles ,vhen once again they "Tere halted and guarded back ho,me. (irancbnother pleaded and begged to be allowed to go on. She 1told thern Nie Federal troops ,vere stalt.ioned at Cassville and that ·wheu th0y heard h l\fr. Henry., lived on ,vhat is no,v the Fisher farm on ,vest Leathe1wvood, and ,vhat fe,v won1en and children that ,vere in that cdmanunity were gathered there. Grandad Henry, ·who 1vas 02 years of age, !had gone just a short distance 20 PIONEER TALES fro1n the house to a cedar brake to get some cedar to kindle fires ·,vith. I-Ie had gathered s1n:all lin1bs and tied the1n in a bundle, and ,vith then1 on hjs back started ho1ne. The ,von1en ·were watching hin1 as Jack Jackson rode. up behind him, itook ai1n and shot hi1n through the back of the head. I-le fell dead in his tracks. 'fhey ,vent to ,vhere the scouts ,vere stationed, and through pity for the ·\'.v-01nen, they helped to bury hi111. "Croppy'' John Clark, who had been taken prisoner that day, also helped, nnd later told this story. Tlhey had no coffin so they built a sort of a pen out of cedars and ,vrapped 1hin1 in a quilt and buried hin1 there. .A. sn1all to1nbstone 111arks his grave today. The other victiins hnriied there in the early days ,vere 1nostly children ·who died of so~ne disease like malaria supposed to have been caused by the stench fro1n !wild pigeons' roo~ts ·which ,vas very nauseating. 1\_fter they disappeared there ,vas no n1ore of that peculiar illness a:n1ong the children . .A.fter the ,vau Jack Jackson disappeared ju a pecnlinr way and ,vas always suppos.ed to have been shot. I-le started to go1 to Texas and his buddy, Jerry Jlarp, ,vent a "p:ece" ,vitl1 hi1n. Jerry returned to his ho111e after going a short distance. Thnt ,vas the lust ever seen of Jack Jackson. In a fe,v years 1the skeleton of a. 1nan and horse ,ve.re foiu1d in a hollow lead ing do,vn fron1 S,v-ain mountain and it is. supposed to have been Jack Jackson's ns there ,vere metal buttons and bits of m1ietal off the .saddle, everything .else having been burned during forest fires. The skull ,vas picked up by Dr. George of Berry ville, and is ,still in the possession of his son, Dr. C!harles George, of Springfield, l\.fo. . It ,vas the supposit.ion of 1nost people that Jerry Harp had killed him. My n1otheri never believed this for he left her ho1ne ,vith hin1 and was gone only a little while--not long enough li:o have covered that distance. It will ever renFiain a n1ystery of the i11ills :and there are. n1any that ,vill never be solved. l\1any 1nen have con1e to onr hills to hide their identity and have succeeded £or many years. One instance I ·will re late, but ,vill call no nan1es in consideration of relatives no,v living. .The man came to this county in an early day, underi -an assun1ed na1ne, 1.'eared a family to be gro,vn and his children n11arried here. It lvas very strange to the neighbors that he always carried his gun. If he ".,.ent to the field to work ~1e carried it, or to cut "rood his gun ,ras by his side. Finally he P10NEER ·r ALEs 21 heired an ,e:sta te and applied for a pension, ?igning his real nan1e. In a fe,v days the officers carne for hi111 and car,ried • hin1 a-way to the penitentiary for a 1nnrder ·which he had co111- 1nitte-d bventy years before. l\1en and won1en ,vere· accepted at "face value" lby the people of the hills, 'Who w:ere ever ready to ,velco1ne the ne,v coiner and assist in building his cabin (called house raisings) and also to help clear his land (called log rolljngs) or anything else 1tha t was needed. I...iog riollings, house ra i sings, quilting ·bees, apple parings and such like coanprised their social life, and anyone vvho once participated in these events and the ~'eats" that acco1npanied then1, can testify to 1the ,,vholesome fnn and pleasure of the111. I believe it ca·n truly be said of tlhe pioneers of the 1Ozarks thait. there never ,vas a 1nore hospit nhle or kindlier people. vVhen one ,vas ill every neighbor felt 1t his duty to "s.et up" and help nurse, feed and clothe the 1~~unily. 1"'hcy ,vere like childriei1, strong. in their love, and bitter in their hatred, but like children also willing to forgive. rfhere ,vere no church houses or schools in this part of tlhe · county and meetings, .. were :held in their cabins. lt preacher ,by the nmn1e of l.1ee M-asten;:, ,vho lived in l\fadison connty, ca1ne and preached. Later "1Uncle" Philip Clark, 'Who lived at "l-Iicums Prairie," came and pr1eached. He baptized many of the early settlers, my father and inllother included. After ~hey 1noved to I(,ings river, Brother ,veatherman preached in the· old school 'house at lVinona spring, and the house was nlways filled to overflovving, and father . said it almost raised the roof f11om the house by the shouts that arose from the spirit filled pionee,rs. .1Vinonn _spring ,vas na'Ined by Pend~lton ~1ills, fat-her of Mrs. Ifenry ,,Tilliaµns.- · A to,vn ·was also started at this place and laid off in lots. A st.ore ,vas owned and operated by Dr. Cnchran and, lToll Harp, ,vhere everything from· pins tto cedar posts ,vere bought and sold. A postoffice was also estab-lished. !The first postmaster ,vas Dr. ,Cochran. It looked as if it was going to be a prosperous to:,vn, as 1nany sick and afflicted ca1me there and ,vere helped or cured. ,,Tinona school house ,vas then 1noved to its present location. There is ,vhere I obtaine·d what education I have, outside of home study and the great tr~aining of the hills, "~hich, after I was tV\relve years of age, became my schoolmaster. Uncle Charlie Dirk was born and reared within a few 1niles of Eureka Springs and ,vill be 80 years old the 17th of 22 ProNEJ~R ,.r ALES Nove1nber. lie gives an interesting account of his boyhood days and the early life of Enrcka Springs. Ile says the fir,st ·wagons ,vere crude and the ,vheels ·were s~nved fron1 larrre svcan1ores LJ ti and a hole bored, or cut, in the center for t1he axle. 1'he beds ·were 111ade by hand and the ,vagons ,vere dra,vn by oxen. I-le told of the first buggy he everi saw. Ile said he thought it ,vas the n1ost ·wonderful thing he had ever seen and he ,vould hn ve given all he possessed for one to have hitched to the team 1 1 n1y father for them • '1"' hey lived near one another. Tears carne to the eves of the writer as he related the earlv incidents t/ "' and privations of 1these God-fearing men, for they ,vere God- fearing and believing men. Fathers and mothers ,valked three n1iles and carried s111all children to church. At one of their ca1np 111eetings he invited the preacher, Pr1ome with hi;in. 'fhey had ·only one feather bed and a shuck bed, 1nade fro1n tearing shucks fine and putting them in a tick made like a ,n1attress cover. 'They slept on the shuck bed and gave the preacher the feaVher bed, and ·upon asking hi,m ho,v he fared, he said, "Birk, I never slept on a better bed in 11ny life and ,vas never treated beftteu by anyone." I-le, never failed to visit them during his 1neetings. PIONl~ER TALES 2B HUNTING STORIES As .,von . sit at the Basin Ciuc]e nnd listen to the strains of 111odern n1usic as it floats np and beyond ,vhere, perhap;-;, so1ne aerial 111echanisn1 can pick it np and bear the1n on and on for hundreds and thousands of n1iles, 1ny 1nind goes hack to another dra.1na that ,vas enacted in this sa1ne setting not 111any years ago. A ca111pfire glo,vs and hunters sprawl upon the ground, ,vhile close to 'their n1asteus lie trusty friends, the 1nongrel dogs, known as curs, which do not rate high in the dog ,vorld of today, yet they played an in1portant part fr1 the developn1ent of ithis country, for it was they, and not hounds:, that ,verc used 'to hunt bears and deer. Instead of n1usic of today these hills re-echoed the ho,vl oi the ,volf and screa1n of the panther, and ·who has not felt their hair bristle at the ,vicked screa1n of the screech o,v 1i I kno,v a preacher ,vho lost 1his false teeth over a battle ,vith one of 1these saucy night birds, ·,vhich ahnost frightened hiin out of his ·wits. ]'he frontier~.1lnen of yesterday ,vere garbed in ho1ne-1nade jeans which the good wives had spnn and woven. The 1node of tr,nnsportation was vel'y crude. Oxen and ,vagons ·were the con1'lnonest. IT'ro1n. da,yn until sun up it!he hills reverberated with the gobble, gobble of ,vild turkeys, and the heavens ,vere often darkened by the ,Yild pigeons, and great li1nbs were broken do,vn by then1. 11his country ,vas indeed rich ,vith wild life and adventure, yet it ,vas adventure fraught ,vith grave dangers and ·,yhen yon look back ·with longing eyes pnay re- 1ne111ber the·se people fonght for their very existence. 'They !had to fight the ele1nents, the ·wild things of the 1nountains and ,vith then1selves to wrest a ~living from the soil. \Vhen grandfather and father returned to I(eels creek after the war they bvought a husky cur dog, ,vhich ,vas trained for bear. It ·was said to be one of the . best bear dogs in this country, so that accounts for ti:1eir being 111ixecl up in so many bear scraps . .Li\t tha.t tin1e there wPre no houses w•here Eureka Springs now stands but its peculiar environlment see1med to fit the needs of the hun{ers and ,vas used as their meeting place and crnmping grounds. They· slept under the bluff just hack of the Basin Circle. The basin was a hollowed basin, supposed to have been chiseled by the Indians. ~1any a campfire glowed and 24 PJONEEil TALES 1nany thirsty n1en and dogs quendhed their thirst fron1 the clear, sparkling ,vater 1that 1ater ,,vas to becon1e '',vorld famous." J\1ethinks these hills could relate :111any interesting storjes could they repeat the tales that ,vere told around 1the ca1n11fires of this backwoods ca111p. It 'Was not only for the sport that 1these n1en risked their Ii ves as they pursued the ,vild ga1ne of that day·, but it ,vas 1to n1ake tihis country sa.fe for you and n1e that. their cabins were plastered ,vith fnr and hides, and this also ,vas often their only source of ready cash. Fatheii and grandfaitl1er killed, or he,]ped to kill, eight bear in the vicinity of Eureka Springs after the war. The last one killed near here ,vas a snr.all one. 1Two of t!he I-Tarp boys \Vere hunting ". hen theiu dog bect~1n;e excited over son1ething in a leaning tree. The boys discovered ,vhat the younger boy though1t. to be a large groundhog, ·and he ·wanted to clin1b the tree after it, but the ·older boy realized it ,vas a cub and shot it. Deer ,vere plentiful until a few years ago. In 1ny short story, " ..A .. Bear Tale,'' ,vhich ,vas · published so1neti1ne ago, I told of an adventure 1ny father and griand father experienced near Eureka Springs. They had treed a bear in a cave and father ,vent in after hjn1. I-le carried a pine torch and upon sighting the bear· he dropped his torch and firied. Instantly another bear came for,vard and snuffed out the torch with his foot. Father fled and called for grand father ·who ·was holding the dogs at the n1outh of the cave. So close was the bear that the shot fro/J.Tli grandfather's gun grazed father's pants leg. 1\. short time after that the Taney hill boys ca:me after the1n to go to a cave w herie they had a bear treed. They called their dog, got son1e corn pone anµ started for the cave. It ,vas late ,vhen they arrived, and one· of the ·boys suggested tha,t, ·they go in after 1the bear, but grandfather said, "No, we had· one experience in a cave ,vith ·a bear and we do not ,vant any n1ore.'' He set them to gat1:1ering pine knoits to 1nrake a smudge. ,vhen it ,vas going good grandfather, stationed then1 ,vith their guns to "Watch for the 1bear but gave orders not to shoot until it got entirely out, for if they shot at· it it ·would go back in and suffocate before it would con1e out again. But the 1ninute iit stuck its head out they cracked do-~rn on it, and that ,vas the last ever seen of that bear. So they ate ;their Gorn pone, n1inus bear 1neat, for supper. Long year,s after one of my older sisters had heard the talk about bears so 1nuch that she ,vas ever on the alert for one. .JOHN SEX~l.10N One ·of the old-time hunters is shown here with a wild cat which he had killed. PIONEER ·TALES 25 10~1e day father ,vas suddenly alar111;ed by her call that "Here's ,a bear! 'Here's a bear!" Father grabbed his gun and ran. Upon arriving at the spot ,vhere s'he was he looked around expecting to find something, and did. She pointed down where a 1nole had been unearthed and ,vas frantica1ly trying to dig back in. Rev. vVeathern1an of Clifty,. a pioneer, told me he had counted as high as thirty-five deer ju a herd and that all told he had killed over 350 deer hi1nself. It is one of 1ny earliest recol lections to see t1his grand old preacher con1e riding up to our little school house ,vith his saddle bags, lvhich ,ve children felt a great reverence for, and it ,.was a great honor to be allolved to carry thein in. The ,veather ,vas never too hot nor too cold for hilln to saddle his horse and ride for n1iles and 111iles to prieach his precious Book, and I ,vant to say ,vlhile he is still Ii ving, that I kno,v of no one n1an that has done n1ore for the good of this country and its spiritual "yelfare, than he. After publishing a bear story a 1nan called 111e to thne for speaking ,of a n1other benr and cubs , in Decen1ber. For the onligh•ten111ent of those ,vho do not kno,v, I ,yill give .a fer,v facts that w'ere given 1ne by old thne hunters concerning bears. It is a well kno,vn fact t!hat most bears sleep fron1 the latter part of Deren1ber or first of January until spring, although "poor" ?ears here in the Ozarks ca1ne ont and ate ,vhen they ·wanted to. After, locating their ,vinter hon1e, usually a cave, they ,vould gnaw· the trees around the month of it and where they went for \\1 ater. ,, It is said they suck their paws, as ~hey are veriy "~hite and tender ·when t'hey leave their dens. Their cubs come in January and February and are naked and help less. The 11nother takes one at ~ ti111e and lets it nurse. They are very affectionate, and the cubs ren1ain ·with the mother until gro"rn. !Tll1ey are called cubs until they are year old and then yearlings. ,v'hen onre aroused they 1are the most formidable beast tha1t the hunter encounters, as they are very intelligent and conrageons. lUnlike the panther and wolf they will fight to the death and never 1nake a sound until they receive the death wound ,vhich the pioneer hunters described as sounding like ''0 I~ord," by "\\1!hich sound they could tell when they were "done for.'' It _is a great ntistake to think that one can ''walk in" on them and ki'll the1n without trouble whjle they are in their winter torpor, 'W'hich was proven by ,Ji1n I-Iarp. He ,vas a 2G PIONEER TALES great deer hunteri, but never had hunted bears. One day ,v~ile deer hunting he can1e upon bear tracks and follo,ved the111 into a cave over on Clifty. He went on after the ·Todds, ,vho were also deer hunters. 1Vhen he told the-in of the bear they said, "vVhy, yes, ,ve can go right in and kill the1n as ~hey lie, for they are in their winter toupor no,v and are not dangerous.'' I-Iarp was so1ne,vhat dubious about this, for he had heard his elders tel1 of bear escapades in which they had aln1ost lost their lives, but at last yielded to their plan. Upon reaching the cave Todd told him that he would go ahead and kill the bear and for hi1n just to carry the torch. l'hey had gone only a short distance when Todd yelled, "1,1here's a bear coining," and tnrning, ran over I-Iar,p and knocked hin1 do,vn, the bear close on his heels, also ran over hi1n. After reaching the entrance of the cave, Todd looked back and sa,v the bear and ran for a tree and sat flat do,vn on the ground locking his ar111s and feet securely around it. He ,vas so badly frightened that he thong'ht he ,vas np in a tree. The bear, as badly frightened as he, ran off. Poor Harp! having troubles all his o,vn-having been run over by 1,odd, and stepped on by the bear-,vns trying to make his ,vay out ,vhen he stepped on another bear wl1ich came at 11i,1n in dead earnest. He had nothing with ,vhich to defend hin1self except his pine torch. He said the beari ,vould n1ake for hin1; then he ""ould hit her on the nose ·with his torch; then he ,vonld jun1p back and pray. At last she beca1me tired of the fire and sinoke and made for the entrance. Just as she started out of the cave Leroy Todd shot her and she fell dead in the hole. This seemed to bring Jim Todd back to his senses, and he ju1nped up and said, "~Iy God, Leroy, Squire's dead in there." "I'm not dead, either/' s1houted IIarp, "but unless you get that bean out of that hole before the rest of them jump on me, I will be dead.'' They lost no ti1ne in dragging the dead bear out. It was a large one. · Then Harp ,vas helped out. My grandfather was sent for to help the squire home, as he was very badly bruised and lacerated. Incidentally, grandfatlher told them a few things about going into caves after "sleeping bears," ,vhich he had learned himself. vVhen there ,vas sno,v on the ground deer hunters would dress in ·white, or light clothes, and tie a red handkerchief on their head. Their clothes being ,vhite they could approach very ·near r10NEEn ·r ALEs 1tlhe deer and they ·would 1nake fight at the red handkerchief, as r,ed is one color that a deer will charge at any ti1ne. One of our neighbors ca'me very near losing his life ,vhen he approached our pet deer ,vith a red s,veater on. The only story· told n1e. of panthers attacking men in these hills was that of Jack Bo,v1nan, ,vho was out late one night and ·was returning ho1ne ,vhen a panther jumped fron1 a tree onto his back. I-Ie at last 1nanaged to kill it ,vith his knife, but not until his clothes ,vere· torn off hi1n, and his body so badly lacerated tlhat he ,vas unable to do anything for so111c tin1e. The panther ,vas e1naciated fro111 hunge-r, and was also suckling young and that accounts for her bravery. One bitterly cold day father and grandfather ·were hunting when they realized they were aln1ost friozen. They thought they would build a fire and started to cross a log, ,vhich ,vas ,veil protected fron1 the biting ,vind, ,vhen suddenly a bear arose fron1 the opposite side and planted her feet on the log, looking the1n square in the face. Griandfather's gun had become ,vet with the sno,v, and father's hands ·were so numb he could not reload his e1mpty gun, and ther,e they ·were. Father said he kne,v ~he ,vas going to kill them for she had t,vo cubs by her side and all hunters kne,v ,vhat that n1eant. They ha.cl forgotten the faithful dog who never got very far a,vay from thein. The cur, ,vhich w·as a silent hunter, ran up and grabbed the bear, which at once caught the dog in 1her embrace and had hiun ahnost squeezed to death ,vhen grandfather stabbed her •with his knife. They carried the t,vo cubs home and 1nade pets of them, but they became such a nuisance t!hey finally killed them. Not long after this their faithful dog met death in their defense. They ,vere going through a dense growth of under brush, matted ,vi~h grape vine ·when they suddenly came upon a n1other, bear ·with cubs. ~They started to retreat when grand father's foot beca.me tangled in the vines and he fell. The dog attacked the bear and ,vas caught in her e11nlbrace and both rolled off high bluff and ,vhen they found their dog t'he bear had snapped his entrails out. They tracked the bears to a cave 'and early the next n1orning they smoked them out and killed them. This practically ended their bear hunting, as they never owned another beari dog. •vv1lhat a pity that ,ve could not have retained some of the wild life of the hills, £or no place in the world is more suitable 28 PIONEER TALES for a natural par!c "\Vhat a beautiful picture it niiust have been to have seen the herds of deer and. other wild things as they ga1nboled and played upon these hills, or drank fro111 the springs and brooklets that trickled fro1n then1. The last deer killed in this vicinity ·was in 1910. I !had the it hrilling pleasure of first discovering it. I ,vas at 1ny brother's, 111ilking, vvhen I sa,v something co1ne bet,ve-en a skip and a jump across the field. I called to my niece to ln10,v ,v hat it ,vas, although I ,vas pretty sure it ,vas a deer. Like a fool I began ito call \my brother and at the sound 9f 1ny voice the graceful 1thing leaped the fence and bounded a,vay. I kept calling 111y brother to rinn, ''there's a deer, there's a deer," till 1he very uncercrr1onio11sly told 1ne to shut n1y n1outh that I'd scare all the deer off in a hundi·ed n1iles. I-le soon had his gun and pack of hounds and was on its trail, "rhile ,ve spread the ne,vs. It ,vas then late in the evening and at dark they called the chase off for tlh.e day, but at early da,,rn all the n1en in the con1munity set out on its trail and at sundo,vn the next evening the splendid fello-w ,vas killed within a half 1nile of ·where I first sa,v hin1 the evening before. So ended the deer of t.his great natur,al park. Quite a .faaliliar scene to the old-timer and one to make the 1nouth wa;tPr today. PIONEER TALES 29 REMINISCENT OF CHRISTMAS The follo,ving is a brief history of J. A. Littrell of Berry ville, in 1his own words, and his story, "Re1niniscent of Christ n1as :" I was born on October 5, 1871, in a little log hut that stood on the left bank of Dry Fork, a little creek that has its source and runs its course in Carroll county, 1\.rkansas. My fathen n1ade a hon1estead entry of ''governunent land,'' just across the line separating Carroll front ~fadison county ,vhen I ,vas seven year8 old. I-le ·wrested a fann fro1n a pri1neval forest. ejmbraced in that ho1nestead plat. v,r e lived nnder such conditions as prevailed at an earlier period of tlhe pioneer, days. · I attended n1y first district school when I was ten, in a little log schoolhouse, situated two and a half n1iles fron1 our hon1e. Dnring that first tenn ,of school, n1y curriculum con sisted of VVebster's Blue-back Speller; the next tern1, was added ~IcGnffey's Second Reader. The school tenn was in variably three nnonths in length, and ahvays began in J nly. 1'he little education that · I aequired ·was obtained in that little log lhouse and at ho'lne by the light of a bDuslrwood fire. I n1nrried at the age of t,venty-four, and rem~1ined on the farn1 until I was t,venty-eight. Then I ,vent to the villnge of Marble, ,v here I becan1e the postmaster. The village post master must needs have son1e 1neans of getting a livelihood, other than from the en1oluments of his office. During my tern1 as posmnaster, I ,vas successively a cabinet-maker, druggist, general m1erchant and printer. In the year of 1905 I began the publication of a little magazine which I christened J rnThe Back,voodsml]n.'' I did all the work necessary for getting out the magazine, except the pasting of the pages. I persuaded n1y son, then about nine, to do a part of that. I was forced to suspend publi cation of the paper about one year after its birth, on account of ill health and over·work. In the month of i1arch, 1907, I dispoRed of ,my belongings ind ·went to Tacorna, ,,r ashington, ·where I lived five yeans. Then I returned to the Ozarks and a farm. In 1913 I took i !homestead entry of "government land." I ren1ained on that rrornestead seven years. ·Then I can1e to Berryville, where I live at present. 30 PIONEER TALES l\,f y ti1m,e is pretty ·well taken up in the business of gaining a Ii velihood. Part of the rare spare-tin1e that comes to me I devote to putting uny thoughts in ·writing, in the form of essays, reminiscences and fiction. This I call "Adventures in the Realm of Thoug:ht." TIIE STORY The time w.as Christmas day, A. D. 1879-fifty years ago. The place a log cabin that stood in the midst of a small clearing on a plateau of the Ozarks of Arkansas. The cracks bet,veen the logs of the ca bin were plastered ,vith yellow clay mortar. A large "st_ick-and-clay chin1bley" was attached to the west end of the cabin. There ,vere two rough batten doors, hung bet,veen he-wn jambs. ll'.he doors faced north and south. Tll1ere ,vere no ,vindo,vs. The south door stood open to admit the light. The· earth ,vas covered with a blanket of sno,v, and sno,v was still falling in large feathery flakes. v,Tithin the cabin a huge log fire crackled and roared in the fireplace. The furnishings of the cabin were sparse. A four-poster bed occupied each corner in the rear end, a trundle bed held a place underneath one of t11e four-posters; a spinning ,v heel stood on its three leg~, next the ,vall between the beds; a half dozen chair,s, with ·woven bottoms of hickory bark, stood about the fireplace; to the right of the fireplace stood an old chest of dra,vers, and on the lef,t of the fireplace was a rude table that served as ,vork table ·and dining table.· Above tihe table were three shelves, supported on pegs driven in holes that 1had been bored in the ,va 11. On the shelves ""ere tableware and kitchen utensils. At the night side of the fireplace sat four barefoot children, two boys, two girls, ranging in age from eight to one. They were engaged in the childish game of "'Villia.1n Trimbletoe. '' At the table a wonlan ,vas engaged in preparing a cookie dough, s"reetened with sorgwm,. Fro1n this dough she began to cut forms of rabbits, pigs and birds. She baked them in a Dutch oven that stood with its three legs astride a heap of embers on the hearth-stone. An iron kettle rested on one end of the logs on the fire. In the kettle was a '~oiling hen, ,vhich when cooked jus~ right, ·would be surrounded with dumplings. 'The won1an was plump and comely, and smiled as she worked. She was the mother of the children. ,vhen she had baked PIONEER TALES 31 a. "batch'' of cookies, she gave one to each of the chil_dren. The children were myself, the oldest, n1y h,vo sisters and a baby brother. vV e had got out of the bed that morning soon after father had sbarted the fire. -,Ve had been eager to inspect our home-knit -woolen stockings ·which had hung on pegs beside the fireplace, in the !hope that Santa Claus rnight pay us a visit that night. These stockings had been knitted by our 111otheri for us, and had never been ,vorn for lack of shoes to be ,vorn 'With them .. Our wishes had been rather extravagant as we hung the stockings; I had dared ·wish for ten sticks of striiped candy 1and a pair of _red-topped boots. Tll1e wishes of the sisters had been aln1ost as daring; they had each ,vished for five sticks of striped candy and a pair of shining black shoes ·with brass on the toes. Baby brother ·w1as too· young to understand what it. was all abont, but he had a stocking ~hung too. We had given voice 1to bitter disappointment vv hen we had searched our stockings and found then1 empty. Then n1other had partially mollified us by pro1nising to bake s01ne animal cookies for us. I,ater we learned that. Santa Claus failed to pay us the hoped-for visit because father had failed to make a sale of son1e pigs that he intended to sell before Christmas. 1\.s ·w-e played, and speculated on the remissness of the good old Saint, ,ve · ,vere startled by a man appea.riing at the open door, and shouting in a booming voice, ''Christmas Gift !'' This was a comun.on greeting on Christmas day. He ,vore a coon-skin cap and a bear skin overcoat. He stan1ped the ~.now from his boots and shook it fro1n his cap and cont and came inside. He shook hands ,vith mother, re n1oved his coat 1and hung it on a post of one of t1he beds. We children had jumped to our feet, and were timidly r~ garding the visitor, who now turned to us, and inquired, "Did old Santa come last night?'' There \Vas a vigorous negative shaking of three heads. ''1No,v ain't that ,too awful mighty bad," he co,mmiserated, ''he must of had a break-down on the way." At unother's invitation to be seated, ihe pulled a chair up to the fire, and sat down, extending his feet toward the cheerful blaze . . Our, supersensitive noses caught the aroma of mellow apples. "I found some stuff I reckon old Santa might of lost, and PIONEER 'TALES it iJnight of been the very stuff he'd star,ted to ibri1~g here," he said, as he put his hands into his pockets. Ile took out a la1:ge red .apple ·whic'11 he extended tovn1rd the younger sister. She advanced and tin1idly., took it. rrhe reserve of the other sister and n1yself began to fall a"~ay. ,v e dre,v nearer the 1nan. I-le took out anothe1, apple and gaYe it to the other sister. He gave n1e a searching look and asked, '"I-lave yon been a pnrty good boy all the ,v hile ?'' I nodded in the affirinative. '"I-las he?" the fello,v inquired, addre.,sing the sisters. 'They confir1ned 111y unspoken declaration ·with nods. ''VVonld you eat an apple, if you had one?" !he then asked 1ne. "1'..,.. es sir," I replied, hun1bly. I-le gave 111e one. ,v e stood about hin1 and Hinelled our apples in joyfnl an ticipation, putting off the eating just to prolong the sensation. "Eat 'e111" he co'llnnanded, "1l'hat's ·what they nre for.'' !-le 110,v induced the babv to con1e and took it on his knees . • J Ile dre,v another apple fro111 a pocket and gave it to the baby. \·Ve ate our apples slo,v ly, deeply relishing every bite . ..As ,ve ate, he had us tell hi111 what ,ve 1iutd ,vished that Santa 1night bring us the night before. ()ur father ca111e in as we -were eating our apples, and greeted the visitor ,vith joyful snrprise. I-Ie ·was father's cousin and the t\VO had been chums in bovhood.., The cousin had been so- jouuning in ~e,v Mexico several years. He and father fell to talking of t1he \Vest. As they talked, the cousin took a sn1all bag of 1nixed candies fron1 his pocket and gave it to 1ne, ,vith · the injunction to divide it am!Dng the others. l\'Iotl1er ·gave us a pewter dish into ,vhich I emptied the candy, and ,ve sat do\vn on the floor ,vith the dish in onr n1idst. ,re proceeded to give delightful inspection to each piece, and to divide it, giving to each a piece of the san1e kind. tIG1ere were gum drops, assorted shapes of hard candies and pieces of broken sticks. vVe had never even dre,arned that there could be any kind of candy except stick candy. ,v e put off the eating of the ~andy, as ·we had pnt off the eating of the mpples, nibbling only a tiny bit at a tjme. I had never, before, and have never since, tasted quite as delicious candy. 1Iy cup of joy was brimming :full, and vras destined to bubble over before the. day ended. After 1ye had eaten our Chrishnas dinner of chicken and dnn1plings, 1n1ilk, butter and cookies, mother took the shears and cut three strips fro111 a piece of course ,vrapping papev, PIONEER 'fALES and gave the1n to father ,vho proceeded to 1neasnre our feet by having each of us stand on a strip, ,v hile he cut it off ,vith his pocket knife at 1heel and toe-. iJ-Te then rep1enished the fire and left the house, accoonpanicd by his cousin. vVhen they had gone, ,re. plied mrther ~vith questions as to 7 " hether father had gone to buy shoes. vVe kne,v that the 1neasnring of ouri feet presaged the getting of foot,vear. She told us that. he 11night get us new shoes, if he could get sizes to fit us. ,vhile this ·was not altogether reassuring it served us as a t1herme for happy speculation. v,T e had an exuberan't ron1p, and then sat do,vn beside the fire to indulge in delightful discussion of the kind of foot,vear that ,ve hoped father might bring us. After a ti1ne that semned to us as an age, faither a.nd the cousin returned. They seated theinselves before the fire, ,vhile ,ve children stood about in expe:ctancy. I discovered the red top of a boot protruding fro1n a pocket of the cousin's coat. ,,.,. e had !been taught to suppress boisterous detm10nstrations of joy or grief, but I could not suppress a ,vhoop of delight on sigh ting that boot-top. The possession of a pair of boots with red tops had been n1y a1nbition as £au back as I could re1nem ber. The cousin 1nnde pretense of concealing the boot-tops ,rith his hand. ,.fhe sisters ·were no,v exploring the pockets of father's coat, and began to exclai111 in delight. They had found t'wo pairs of shoes concealed in his pockets. The shoes had shiny brass shields on the toes, just as they had wished for the night before. After teasing me awhile, the cousin took a pair of shiny black boots from his pockets. i The tops ·were bound with a wide band of red leather, and the toes had br,ass shields. "How long would you ·work for these 1" he asked. "Ho,v long would you ,vant me to work for 'elm~'' I countered. I ,vas ready to offer a life-time of service for them. "Oh, you ,vould have to chop a heap of fire,vood," he replied. I assured him that if father would buy 1n1e an ax I ,vo1lld chop all the wood. "That's just good enough,'' he returned, and gave me the boots. :,Ve put on our foot:wear, and ·walked carefully across the floor, lest ,ve mar their shiny bro,vn soles, and hopefully listened for squeaks. 34 PIONEER TALES Early Day History Told by Louie Haneke Chas. l\1nss1nan, stepfather, of Louie Haneke, ca1ne to Carroll county in the year of 1878, and set up a sa,v1nill, abont three quarters of a n1ile belo,v Eureka Springs. They did a large business and the lumber fron1 'his sawmill ,vent into buildings in Carthngc, l\io., I◄.,t. Scott, I(as., and 1nany other states. This place ,vas tlhen a virgin forest as there ,vcre very fe,v settlers heue and ,vas indeed a bonanza for the hunber1nen. l\fuch of Eureka· Springs' early advertise1nent ,vas throngh the 1\!Iassmans and I-Ianekes, as they told all ,vho ca,n1e about the fa1nons spring, and 1nany ,vent there to ca1np. l\fassrnan had the first feriry boat, built at ]3eaver. Dr... A..lvalh ,Jackson, John and Van I~eaver and John .1\ult did the ,vork. I--Ie also 1nade the road up Butler creek and dug out the ford for his lumbcnnen to haul over. 'roll I-Iarp ha ulcd logs for ~1ns81nran's 1nill ,vjth three yoke of oxen, and can1ped where Ca111p Leath is no,v. It ,vas his -oxen that 111ade the trail to Johnson spring ,vhere 'they ·,vent for ,vater. When Lonie ,vas eleven years of age it ,vas his Sa.tllrday's task to ride a distance of 14 miles to I-Iicurns Prairie (no,v Golden, 1\10.) for the n1ail, n1aking a total of 28 rniles -for tho round trip. T!he-re ,vas only one honse behveen, and it had , been deserted du.ring the ,var. Its owner left everything in good condition but never retnrned to claim it. I think it is now owned by Mr. Hussey nnd was kno,Yn as the "Old Stites Place." I~ouie says he speculated n1uch over the 111atter but it all ended there, for no facts "~ere ever discoYered. After his stepfather's death he and his mother carried on tt:he lumber 'business for a ·while, then sold it and bought the Blue spring farn1. Blue spring had been a. trading post, where flatboats and rafts ·were 111ade, and from ,vhich bear oil and furs ,,veue shipped to 1N ew Orleans. The Indians W'ere know·n · as the ''Strong Boats," and Phil Robison, w·ho settled near, to what was kno,vn to the old-titmers as the "Mel Gaskins Cove," near Blue spring, ·was the first white settler in that part of the country. I-le was ~here when the "stars fell," and all ·,vho witnessed 1this phenomenon thought the world ,vas coming to an end. Robison and ·wife sat beside their cabin PJONEER 'fALES and ,vatched, wondering ho,v long it would be. It ,vas on the Blue spring farm that Haneke 1nacle t,vo discoveuies. There had been a large freshet and an entire knoll of land ·was ,vashed a,Yay. Several feet belnw ,vhat 1~1ad 1been the surface ,Yere three furnaceq, or n1in1ature fireplaces, ,vhere the Indians had 1uanufactnrcd arrowheads and to1111a hawks, disclosing their secret of nutking them. There were 111any in the process of n1aking and at various stages of co1n pletion. llaneke said there ,vas no doubt but that they heated flint rock to ,vhite heat, then applied ·water, ·which caused ,theun to crack off and thns they ,vorked then1 into the de sired shape. In this sa1ne field the skeleton of a huge rr1an ,vas plo,vetl up near what had at one time been an in1:111ense ,valnut tree, the bark being all that ,vas left. The back of the 111an's head had been crushed, but the teeth, which were double, vvere perfect and whit~ as pure china. l\1rs. Masstnu1n, then toothless, addressed the bones, "0, ~ian, I don't kno,v ,vho yon were, nor ,vha't you ,vere, but I do envy you, your ~eeth." The skull gradually crun1bled a-way ,vhen exposed to light but the bones ,ve1:e returned to their former · resting place, but 1nnch n1ore deeply than before and are lying there now. 36 DISCOVERY of MEDICINAL PROPERTIES OF INDIAN SPRING I)r. 1\lvah ,Jackson ,vas a grJ.tt hnnter, and hunted -n1uch in co1npany ,vith Uncle fJol11111y (iaskins and I~evi ·'llo,verton-nsing the Indian spr;ng ns their ca1nping site. It \Vas while trying. to rout a panther fron1 nuder a bluff jnst above the Basin, what 1,vas called tfae Indian .spring, the 11nedicinal vropertiPs of the· spring ,vere discovered. Dr. ,Jackson's son, Bill, then a lad, had a had case of grnnulnted eye lids, ,rhich caused · hi1n ·1nnch snffe.ning. Ile began to cry ,vith the pain in his eye.~ and ,Yas told by his t1ther to go to the DR. ALVAH JACKSON spring and bathe the1n. This Founder of Eureka :Springs i:1e d1d, and very n1nel1 to his (,Pic,ture made fr·om a tintype only picture availa.ble.) surprise and his father's, they ,vere aln1ost 1niracnlously "' cured .. Dr. Jackson ,vas so greatly in1pressed that he at once began to experi1nent ,vith the ,vater not only on his son's ·weak eyes, but began bringing his patients to the spuing to drink of t.he ·,vater and bathe in it. liany chronic cases ,vere cnred. Dr. Jackson and his· sons carried it a,vay in jugs and bottles on horseback. Louie Haneke recalls quite a jokr on himself and friends. Tl.;iey had seen the doctor and his sons ,vith their hors.es heavily laden ,vit!h jugs and hottle:i, and naturally jumped to the conclusion that they had a still near by. They decided to ·watch and learn ,their secret. One day they sa,v the ,Jack sons riding down the hill and tlhey hid to watch them. One can i1nagine their surprise ,vhen the ,Jacksons dismounted and PTONl~ER TALES 87 began filling their jugs "~ith spring "rater. Lonie says Vhey ··were no longer interested "a-tall." l\!Ir. I-Io,verton tells 1ne that he nsed to entertain Dr . .Jack son evenings ·when ca1nping. if-le would sing for an hour or so, and · then Dr . .Jackson ·would repny hi111 by telling bear stories. Litt.le: did they th ink as t1l1ey sang and told their hunting tales, that in a few short years their ca111ping ground would be the fa1nous resort that it is today. Thousands of people ,vho neveP knew old Dr. ,Jackson have lived to call hiin blessed, and have been per111itted to enjoy the blessings of good health through 'the drinking of this ,vaite-r. Dr. Jackson lived to see Eureka Springs a prosperous health resort, and rode back and forth on his faithful nag, "Ribbon," after: the precious ,va ter. At last one evening he rode hoone and had to be carried fron1 his :horse, a dying /Lnan. It ,vas believed that he had been poisoned, but he was never able to tell thmn( and it ,vill -ever reinain another "secret of the hills." Mr. l-Io,ve.rt.on still lives on his far1n near Eureka Springs and is the only one of the old hunters left, ·with the ex ception of Ilnck Saunders, who used the Indian spring as their rendezvous. 38 PIONEER 'fALES NAMING OF EUREKA SPRINGS ,Judge ,J. B. Saunders nioved from Texas to I-Iunts villc, Ark., ,:vhen his son, 13ur:on, ,vas only a small lad, later n1oving to Ilerryville to send Buriton to Clark's acade- 1ny which he did in its third year. Judge Saunders before coining to Arkansas had been a cattle man, buffalo hunter and Indian fighter on the Texas frontier. The entire fam.ily -of both women and 111en were noted for their ,vonderful mark s1m an ship. Burton at a ver,y early age acquired t::1e name of "Buck" by ha-ving shot nnd killed so BURTON C. SAUNDERS ,manv buck deer. •· It ,vas their custo1n to spend several ,veeks each year in ca1n ping and hunting,. so on Saturday in 1\.pril, 1879, they packed their provisions and saddles into their spring wagon, so the.y would be able to st.a.rt early on lionday morning for Piney, their favorite hunting ground. The next day, ,vhich ,vas 8unday, Dr. Alv,ah Jackson, a close friend of Judge Saunders, ca.rr~e to Berryville to church, and went home ,vith the Saunders for dinner. r.f!hey told him of their proposed hunting trip h nd asked him to join then1. l'he doctor told them of his favorite hunting place and that if they ·would come to his place on Monday morning that he ·woulq go ,vith them, and that he believed the ,vater at this place would heal a sore on Judge Saunders' leg, w1hich the doctors had pronounced in curable. He had traveled far and near seeking relief but it + had developed into a chronic sore and erysipelas set in, there- fore was ,villing, but not optimistic over the "healing spring" that Dr. ,Jackson was so enthusiastic over. However Saunders consented to do this and early Monday morning they set out on their hunting trip, picking Dr. ,Jackson up as prearranged. 11 hey could drive only to \vhere the ce,metery now is, as there was no trail or road from there on. T'hey saddled {!heir horses and packed their provisions on thenn and rode into ca.mp which ,vns no· 1nore nor less than Basin- ~pring. 'fhey 1made can1p ,vhere the Illocksom building is, drank fro1n the spring, and ,Judge Saunders bathed his leg in \vhat J)r. Jackson called the Indian spring ·water, ·,vhich he had used for eye water 1nany years. · IThey shot and killed a deer ,v here vValkcrs ~ store stands. The next n1orning Dr. ,Jackson n1ounted his horse and ,vith deer and jug of eye ,vater, rode home 5 leaving Judge Saunders and son alone. They stayed there and hunted for four weeks never seeing a hnn1an being. They killed lots of ga1ne, and often stood in their camp and killed deer and turkeys on the mountain side. W1hen they had been there four weeks ,Judge Saunders said, "Son, you had better go home, and get n1ore provisions and see how Mother is. I believe I'll _stay for I am sure 1ny leg is healing and is knuch better than it was, so I am going to try bathing it a little longer and I \believe it _will get. ,veil." J3nck saddled his horse and rode back home. His mother ,vas so delighted with his report that she de cided to con~ too. He hitched his horse"'to a buggy and brought his 1nother to caanp on May 18, 1879-her. birthday. When she saw their rude tent she said, "':Vell, · if ,ve are going to stay here, ,ve ought to have a little better camp." Buck, then a lad of lH, gathered his ax and taking his horses, went to ,vhere t:hey left. their hack. He hitched up and cut a sort of road to ~arnp. vVhen he came to East Mountain where vVhispering Pines now is, he cut a small tree and tied it to the back of his hack and roped the two ,vheels# on either side together, and with then1 securely locked, slid down the steep mountain and made it into ca,mp-the first vehicle of any kind to be driven in. He then took lhis team, doubletrees and chains, and snaked up enough slabs and rough lunl!ber from Massman's 11nill, five miles below .the camp, to m'!ake a shack about l0xl0, and covered it with slabs. Here they camped and hunted for two months, during ,vhich time Judge Saunders' limb was entirely healed. Judge Saunders was ,vell kno,vn all over Carroll county and ,v hen this began to he noised a'broad people began to come. ,The second fa.mily to arrive was Squire John Whitson's who ,vere great friends of Saunders. 40 PIO NF.Ell 'fALES ()n the :Fonrth of ,July jn 1870 there ,vere twenty fa1nilies ca·n1ped here. Dr. rlackson had ridden over for 1none ,vater nn • 1,vas very anxious to kill a deer. Atlr. ,Sa nnders let him have his scaffold and gun. After a while he becan1e · so sleepy he ,vent to sleep and his gun fell to the ground, ,v here the deer pa,Yed over it and tra 11nped on it w·hile licking salt. The young 1111.an spent the night in the tree, bnt needless to say, he killed no deer. Mr. Saunders told of another exciting deer storiy that hap pr~ed at this sa11ne place. I-le and his father and Dr. ,Jackson all shot ~ deer and thought it ·was dead. Dr. Jackson ran up and stabbed it ,vith a pruning knife, ,Yhen it arose~ thro,ving him in the air and running over him. His dogs tracked it a shout distance and fonnd it dead. Another dangerous hunting story he told ,vas that of his father, ,vhich occurred a few miles fro1n Eureka Springs. I-Iis dogs ran onto a bear ,vhich he shot. It fell behind a log. He thought the bear ·was dead and, approaching the log from ;:~~i;:" -., -♦ • ':1 t '\=, .. ~:/•:'=·=· . -:•····· i I~: :f;qi~ •'• ... . :, The Basin spring and the first arrivals of 1879. The m1an hold ing the gun is Dr. Alvah Jackson, discoverer of Basin spring. 41 belnw, reached over and stuck the bear1, ,vhich reared up and ripped his clothes £ro1n the collar to the ,vaist, scratching and clawing hi1rn, though not seriously. {The bear ran a short distance and £ell dea I{uck has had so1ne "1 onderful hunting experiences, and in these hills he practiced .an ~Ir. Saunders has traveled the ,vorld over-hunted in foDeign lands as ,vell as in the lJnited States-and has done 1nuch for the city of Berryville, and (not telling any secrets) Eureka Springs ·will also be re1nemhered. He has drunk Eureka Springs ,va=ter for yeaus and will drink no other wlhen he can oht:1in it. Ile says ]laden BacI'en, (Jcr1nrrny, is the only ,vater that ,vill fa vora:bly coin pare ~vith it. l-Ie has discovered a spring on Brushy Mountain, the hill near ,Saunders heights ,vhich analyzes absolutely pnre. He is developing this tract of }and into a beantifnl park and his ·collection of guns and other rare trophies are to be his 1nemorial to Berryville. His 1legal residence is in California, ,vhere he spends his ,vinters, but a par.t. of each year is spent in Berryville, which is his boyhood ho1ne. It is a beautiful home and filled with rare· and priceless treasures that 1he has picked up in his travels. ~fr. Saunders has hunted and fished ,vith the ·writer's brothers, Ben, Chriss and I-Iar:ve Pinkley, and one of the first tthings ,ve can remember is hearing them talk abont his won derful marksn1anship ,vith gtins and gig. On one ten-day fishing trip on ,vhite river they caught and salted dorrn eight hundred pounds of fish-the largest one ,veighing 40 pounds. Sunday, Nove1nber 3, 1029, jnst fifty years fro1n the time Mr. Saunders traveled over an ahnost i,mpassable road, he flmv over the city in an airplane. ,v e dare not look into the next ha If a century, for ,ve cannot yet com:prehend the great ness of the past fifty years. Another incident lfr. Saunders told was that of finding the body of a petrified Indian child in ·Newtown. A man ,vas 42 digging a cistern ,vhen 1he struck son1ething hard that he conld not 111ove. I-le called fon help and lfr. Saunders, ,vith others, sa": the child ren1oved fro111 a shallo,v grave ,vhcre it had been bnried w·ith Indian pottery and other trinkets. It ,vas ,vrapped in skins and had 1noccasins on its fieet. It ·was placed on exhibition here and the n1an ,vho clai111ed it charged 10 cents adn1ission, bnt took it east ,vhere he received 2fi cents achnission fee. l\1r. Saunders says there is no don ht, bnt what Nc"rtolvn ,vas an old bnr:ying ground, for all n1anner of Indian hieroglyphics ,vere found on rocks. ~The writer can re1ne1nber on the old fa1,n1 that Indian a1TO\Y hen ds ,vere plentiful. 'I'he Rock house, which w·e PO often hear the old-tin11ers refer to as the can1ping place of the hnnters, ,vas jusl buck of Mclone's ,r'holesale horn;;e on 1fain street and belo,v, or nnderi, the Lion Spring hotel. l\1r. Saunders said that he and his father ,vonld go there dnriing rains and storn1s. One night t,vo boys fro111 Berryville cru1ne over to hunt, and slept in this Iiork honse. Next 1norning they pnt their bacon on to cook and ·went. to the Ilasin for ,vateu. ,,rhen thev.. returned a black bear had knocked tfoc pan off 'the fire and ,vas de- liberately licking up the bacon. They fired into hi111 ,vith their pistols bnt he never so 111uch as looked around until he had finished the last bit of bacon. They ran do,vn for Bnck, ,vho 'took his rifle, hnt the bear had disappeared ,vhen 1he got there, Uut he tracked it bv., the blood fron1 the wonnds thev.., had inflicted ,vith their pistols. Judge Sannderf, lvas called to Louisiana two years after this. There he contracted a fever and died. Ilnck went rnvay to school and later became a ,vanderer and a celehritv.., . I)IONEER . 'I., ALES WORD PICTURE OF 1879-80-81 Readers, if yon vYould get tthe true perception of the 111agic city that ahnost sprang up overnight, tnkc a gli1npse at the ,vord pictnue. that I shall try to paint for you. 1i,re shall stand on the sun1111it of ,,r e:~t Nlounta in, if yon ·please~ and vic'\v the panora1na of the passing yPars. I,"'irst, ,ve ~ee the hunters in their ho1nespun clothes ns they gather, ronnd the Indian spring to swap stories and sing the folk song.~~. of t1he hills; then ,ve see the lad that ·was healed, and the aged unan as he looks in ,vonder at the n1iracle of the n1agic ·water; then 'We sec the fe,v patients that this grand old '1nonntain doctor brings here fro1n .ti,1ne to tin1e; and as he fills his jugs and bottles he peer,3 into the future. \Ve see ,J ndge Saunders and son as they ,vend their ;way down the steep 1nonntain side. Their horse~ are heavily laden ,vith their ca111ping and hunting par.a1)hcrnalia ~1n Co1n1bined I)irec1tory of Little Rock, I-lot Spring.;;;, l'ine I3lnff, Eureka Spring-~ nn legion, and ,vhose a1nbition appe·ars to be the panora,111a des cription of the place, disregar1dillg any and all disadvantages or disagreearble facts pertaining to the 'city of healing ·waters.' "Eureka Springs is sitnated in the ,Vhite river 11nonntains in C·arroll connty, .Arkansas. It is over 17,>0 feet, above the level of the sea. The cli1nate is clai1ned to he n1ild in ,vinter and delightfnlly pleasant in sHnJ1ner. The nights, dnring the sn111- 1ner 1nonths, are similnr to those enjoyed hy residents of 'The Golden State.' 11This place, as yet, cian hardly clai1n the nmne ,of a 1city-it is in fact. n1ore properly a great can1p-althongh in a fe"r years hence, shonld the tide of its population continue on ,vith the flood now pouring into it, it ,vill soon be far above its r,ivals, not only as a w1aterin~ place, bnt as a gre·at city. The location of "Eureka' is pict1n·c~qnc jn the extrrnne, being scattered over the 111ount:ain tops, clinging to the n1onnta in sides, ·nnd nestling in the gre-at, gorge~, that extenrls in various direc tions in the ,vide spread corporate limits of the cjty. "rrhe hnlclings are, as yet, of little or no consequence os 1nodch, of archi.tectnre, the greater, n111m1ber being rudely con ~tn1c'.·ed of pine hnnber ,vit1h 1nore viow to a hasty occnpnncy itlrnn conYenience and stability. 'rhc cost of living is as reason~ able here as in any city Ea.st or South. First-class hotels are not nnn1erons. I~oardin!! houses are nn1nerons and differ l , 1nnchly as to their acco1n1nodations. 'l'he visitor can he snited according to his or her ineans as to cost of living. '.The streets are very narro":, precipir-tons and serpentine. "There are in the imanediate vicinity some. fifty springs, all containing more or less medicinal properties. There are seven pr~ncipal springs, which have becon1e rioted for their lhealth giving qualities, na1nely: Little Eureka, Basin, Harding, John son, .A.rsenic, Oil, Crescent, Sulphur and Iron springs. The 'above nai1.ned ~1)rings have gained a ·world-wide notor,iety for the n1arvelous cures of the various blood and skin diseases, also for a n11lmher -of miraculous cases of restoring sight to the blind, and con1pletely curing nearly all cases of sore eyes. "The question 1vill be asked by all ,vho hear of these ,von derfnl springs: ''Vhat diseases ,vill they cure?' Tihe follo"~ing dis~ases have ,J1~en kno,vn to :Je benefited, ~nd in n1any c~ses nad1cal cures ~ected, ,vhen given proper t1n1e and attention; Rheumatis1n, tancer, Sore Eyes, Dyspepsia, I{idney Diseases, Liver Co1nplaints, Scrofula, Catarrh, Paralysis, Ulcers, Asthma, Piles and other diseases peculiar to an i111pure condition of the 48 PION:fi~ER 'fALES blood. Bright's Disease has been entirely cured by use of these ,v-at.ers. "vVhile the ·w·)inters are n1ild in this region, they are not the best tin1e to visit the springs. Bebveen- ..A .. pril and November ,vill suit all classes of diseases best. No one need be afraid to go on account of ~he hot ,veather. II11e snn shines ,v,ar1n, to be sure, in rrnid sun1111er, but the nights. are always cool, and fro111 the great purity of the air good sleep is ahvays insured. Snch sound sleep .as is ahvays obtainable here in the cool nights of the hot season, contrfrbntes very greatly to the restoration of the afflicted. There is a prejudice quite prevalent an1ong the. t>eople ,vho live at the Spriings against the errnployment of a physician by tlhose ·who are using the ,vnters. People co1nc 'to try the effects of the water ,vhom no po,v.er on earth can save froun an early death; others con1e afflicted ,vith coin plaints ,vhic;:1 are incurable by any kno,vn 1neans, and after staying a·,vh1Je go a,vay and in some instances denounce the springs as a humbug. "Fro111 the Norrth, East and "1T est the springs can he easiest re-ached via St. Louis, thence over tlhe St. Louis and San Fran cisco line. Fram this point Conant and Con1pany's Stage line .and a nun1ber of hacks and private coJ1veyances carry the traveler over the remaining eighteen miles to t:1e Spring2 .. " AN EARL l"'" vv~RI!IER DESCRIBES ElJREIC.A. SPRINGS "Life at the Springs,'' sa.ys a ,vr1iter in 1881, "is to a great extent, n1ost prin1itive. The furniture is of the rudest, the ac- com1noda tions fe,v, and t;he inconveniences n1any. The cooking, 1nuch of it, is done out. of doors in _the old fatshioned skillet and bake oven. l\fany ,vealthy families prefer tent life, and the site is peculiarly favornble for bhe experirr1ent. The loan of a drinking cup at the spring, or a fire buand at the can1p, often leads to lasting friendships. There is little conformity to fashion, though many stylishly .dressed people t'hrong the streets. .You speak to everybody you n1eet, whether you know them or not, and are sure of a cour,teous, cordial return. 'The preli11n1inary steps at ·meeting are the questions as to ,vhence you came, ,vhen you arrived, 1ho,v long ,vill yon stay, your malady, and your name. To so-me this wholesale prying into your affairs may see1n in1pertinent, but to the lonely cn.mper, miles and miles a\vay fir(im ha,me, sick and longing for sympathy, it is pleasant." 'The to,vn was t:1111s described: "Ever-y,vhere that a hu1nan When houses ·were at a premiun1 n1a.ny of the first arrivals found sheHer under cliffs nntil they could do better. This was 111ade n t Oil spring. P10NEER 'r ALEs 4H abode could be constructed, houses of every description, tents and shelters sprang up all over the n1ounta.in ·tops, hanging ·by corners on the steep sides, perched upon jutting boulders, spanning the gulches or nestling under crags and grottos. It is a 1nost. peculiar looking place, presenting an apparent disregard to anything like order and regularity of_ arrnnge i11'ents, ,viit.h its 't,vo story' Rtreets, i,ts ,vinding thoronghfnres and circular paths." CHlTRC:I-lES IN EURI~I(A_ SPRINGS 'f1he ~Iethodist Episcopal church ·was organized in 1880 by Rev. ·O. P. Bryant, ·with a n1m11bership of 115. The First Baptist church ,vas organized in 1880 by Eldeirs J. R. Cha1nhers, P. J. Jack, D. C. Bo.~well a.nd fonv other 1nem~ 1bers, ,vith P. J. Jack as pastor. - J>ine Street Methodist Ei)iscopal Church, Sonth, ,vas organized in 1879 by Rev. 1\Varren Brooks,, with a n1eii11'bership of t,venty. This Yvas the first church organized in Enreka Springs. In the yenr of 1881 Rev. vV. D. McEhvee, Presbyteriian, held a tent 1nee:bng at corner of ~fountain and Spring streets, and! nnited the Northern, Southern.1 and Cnmberlands, which ·were later organized in 1882 by the R,ev. J. tf. Marln;;, D. D., Presby terian irnissionary of Ozark Presbytery, North. The First Christian Church ,vas oDganized in 1881, with Rev. Giddings as pastor. R.ev. L. ,,r. Scott ,vas one of the early pastors. ,)ro SETTLERS OF 1876 TO 1900 ,v. H. STRONG:-187H ,,r. I-I. Htrong, pioneer, poet, and con1urnonly kno,vn as the "()Id Ozarker," gained this . title hy having spent the greater part of his life roa1ning in the Ozarks. llis story is one that dates back to the Civil ,var; brorthers ,vere divided-four fighting for the North and two fighting for the South. Be cause of their loya]ty to one another they ,vonld not take the oath re Springs in 1879 cast his lot ·with the very first d,reller;s and spent 50 of his 75 years in Eureka Springs. He ,vas the first councihnan of the Third \V ard, and served under Rosson, the city's first mayor. 1He also served under Ca1)tain .John Carroll, Eureka Springs' second mayor. .A.hvays having the best in· terests of the city at heart, he fonght for ·,vhat he thought ,vas her rights. In those days he ,vas active in politics and the Democratic party had no n1oi·e loyal supporter. For several years he ,vas in the dry goods business. For the past few years he ··was lnstice of the Pe~ce and it ,vas fhis -office that helped him to ,vhile a,vay 1nany ho11ri.~ ,vhich ,vould otherwise have been ·weary ones, o,ving to his age. and feeble- ness. • Mr. Holder has passed a'\vay since I hegan Pioneer Tales. 'ffhe evening I ·was to have interviewed him he ,vas carried to the hospital. I iun sure that I have missed many interesting tt.hings that he could have retated, for he ,vas interested in the ,vriting of a book concerning the early life of Eureka Springs and it shall ever be my regret that I could not pre serve them in my book. CLARI\1S-FIRST DE·ATH IN EUR·EI{1\ SIPRINGS [;his interesting, but tragic, story ·was given me by Mrs. ;Ethel Do~ey-Hill of Berryville, and occurred just back of and betw·een the Beruyville ,vholesale house and Tom Ha111p's hard ware store. Professor Clark and his family, with a party of friends, \Yent over to see the newly discovered Eureka Springs during the summer of 1879. Arriiving near the noon hour, they built a fire at the. foot of a tree and the f~1nily and friends seated then1selves for a visit.- ~Irs. Clark, ,vith her youngest child in her arn1s, was seated nean the fi_re. Suddenly someone noticed the tree S'waying. Mrs. Clark seeined to kno,v at once that sthe could not get out of the way of danger with the child in her arn1f,, and before atten1pting to rise, threw the ha by to one side, the tree falling even as the baby ·was reaching safety, striking the m9ther, ,·who died a fe,v hours later. Professor Issac Clark ,vas the founder of the Clark Academy; of Berryville and father, of Mrs. Digby "\Vest of ithat city. ; He was the pioneer educator of this part of ..A .. rkansas, and perlhaps no other one n1an deserves so n1uch credit as he for rthe (m1oral and educational up-building of the youths of his 52 I'IONERR rr ALES day, for practically all the iniddle aged n1en and ,vomen throughout this part of the country spent one o~: n1ore years in this aea.Je1ny. Many. have heco1ne di~tinguished n1en and ,vo111en and the gr,eat moral influence thnt he has exerted over tho111 has been felt and is still being felt by the pupils w·ho ,vere lucky enough to kno,-w hj1n personally. Mr. Charley Birk ,v-ns in :Bnreka Springs and ·witnessed the !tragedy of lVIrs. Clark; also on thnt date, A.ugnst 7, 187H, hf~ ,vatched the surveying of the Jot~ for the ol JVIR. A.:N1D JVIR.S. ·O1I-lAitLES I-IllJSSEY Mr. and Mrs. Chnrles I-Iussey ·were the second people to drive dolvn "Burton Saunders' East ~ionntain road," and the firE;t to drive da,vn ,vith a load of l111nber ,vhich · went into one of the first business dwellings. Mr. Ilnssey- drove one tea;rn and carried· the baby, and ~frs. Hussey drove the other until they ca1ne to the top of East l\,Ionutain ,vhen l\t1r. l-lussty gave her' the baby and chained his ,ragon wheels together so they could not turn, and "fcooted" do,Yn the hill. Ile then r0turned and did the of her ,vagon like,vise, Mrs. Hussey car,rying t1he baby down. ,rhen they arrived 1Ir. ()be Thornton had driven a ,vagon loaded w·ith n1erchandise under the shade of a tree and "'as cutting his cloth ·with a pocket. knife. Mr. Thornton owned the first Eurel~a Springs dry goods store, later going into partnership ,vith the l\t[eadors. It ,vas fra/m this store that the wTiter's "calico and percale" dresses, ,vhic'h ,ve.re ri diculously long, ca1ne fron1. It ,vas on this day, 1\1r,~. I-Inssey recalls, that the first baby born in Eureka Springs ,vas in the Rock hom~e whic:h played such a great part in the early history of t!he city. The child was a girl and defor1ned. It lived only a ·few days. The first sermon preached in Eureka Springs ,vas also pr1eached in this Rock house, and Uncle ,Johnny Gaskins, old-time hunter, said, ''As I listened to hjs sermon and sa,v the preacher laying PIONEEH :TALES 53 his book. on the rock ,v1here. I had so often set 1ny coffee pot, 111y 111ind ,vent ba·ck to the 1nany ti1110s I had ca1nped there; to ti1nes ,vhen the screan1 of the panther or the- gro,vl of the bear 1111.ingled ,w·ith that of 11ny dogs in fight. I.Jittle did I think that son1e day I 1wonld :sit here and hear the v1oi-ce of a 111{111 of God echoing a111ong those rocks. I ,vas con vince.d that the all-,vise Creator had not. 111ade tho~e n1onntains and valleys n1erely for the ·wi]d beasts." ,,1. I( DA_ -VII)SO,N--1870 ,v. F. Davidson ca1ne to Eureka Springs in its "rongh'' stage, and his son, .Joe, then a 111er,e lad, ,vas with his father "when he di~covcred ·what is no,v known as t1he I-larding spring. At .that tia11e it. ,vas jnst a "seep,'' or ,vet spot. Together they ~1R1S. NE,vT F()RT·N.ER Mrs. Ne,Yt Fortner ,vas among the early arrivals and hm~ fatiher, Mr. ,Joe Ivey, lost everything he had in the Spuing street )ire "·hich ruined so many business men. Mrs. Fortner, ,though only a child t:hen, reme111bers that terrible disaster that left the1n aln1ost penniless. At that tillne no one here car,ried . insurance. ,JON,ATH.A.1N STITES-1879 ·Uncle Jonathan Sti1tes reached l~nreka Springs in the ,vinter of 1879 itnd lived near here the re111ainder of his life. His sons, Bill and Ed, have lived :here, or near here, since child hood. Ilill having started in business by selling sand,viches, pi,es, and other quick lunches from a hand cart, no,v o,vns and ·operates t:he fan1ous ,Jitney -Stand that has perhaps made more money than any other "eating house" in Eureka Springs. Ed resides on a truck farm a few 1niles from Eureka .Springs and never fails to supply citizens of the city ,vith the firist "green things'' of spriug. 54 Mll,S. ANNIE IIOUSE-1870 If a vote ,vere cast in Eureka Springs today to determin~ "rho is the best loved and most popu lar \Yoman in town, there is no doubt ·in ·my mind but ,vhat Mrs. Annie I-louse, the little ,vhite crowned ne,vspape,r, ,vonnan, ,vho has served in that capacity for over thirty-five years, ,vould win. '.Dhough her locks have -changed from auburn to snowy white her energy and vivacity and chair,ming and Rympathetic perisonality ,vin all who kno,v ;her. Life has not been all sun shine, but. rwith a brave heart she has faced and fo~1ghlt her own ibattles and hid the .hurts under a s1nile ,vilth ,vhich she always greets her public. I dare say there is no one 1ivi~1g that knows the history of Eureka :Springs as ,veil as she, and I want to give her the credit for the great help she has rendered me in the publishing of Pioneer 'fales. · _ 1Vhen only a slip of a girl she came to· Eureka Springs in 1879. She began her newspaper career in the office of Speav and Perry, publishers of the .,v eekly rflinies, located on l\tla ii1 street opposite and near the n1outh of Magnetic hollo,v. rrhe paper ,vas run off on a 1Vashington hand press nnd often the printing of the paper had to wait for enough rnoney to be collected to get the pa per stock out of the express office. A ~n by the na.me of Basey ·worked in the office, and ~frs. House recalls an incident in ,v hich 1he participated in the early days, and shows son1e of the things people had to contend wit.h daily. vVe must bear in mind the fact the streets ,vere- · not filled in t!hen, and ~Iain street ,vas down on the level with the branch, and the branch is capable of doing -m;uch da,mage even today. 'One day a. man had driven in with a load of lumber and after unloading hitched his mules to a hitching post in front of Henson's blacksmith shop which was located where Ilanley's grocery store is now, and 1had gone upto,vn for some thing. \Vhile he -was gone, there came a terrible downpour of rain and it.he branch went on a ra·mpage, washing wagon, mules and all do,vn the hollow. Mr. Basey stripped and plunged in as the mules ,vere rolling over and over P:roNEER 'rALEs 55 in the water, and man~ged to cut one 1nule loose but ithe othem three were drowned. Mrs. House recalls n1any interesting events that ha.ve come under her observation as a newspaper woman many of ,vhic:h would make in teresting reading lmla-tter. For over thirity years lirs. House ·worked in one office and !tells many interesting occurrences during these years, I\Vhen hand-setting of type ,vas the only means Eureka Springs' first printing office. kno,vn, little thinking at , ,the time there ,votdd come typesetting machines, son1e known as the linotype, that have been the means of thro,ving hundreds of composito1r, out of ·work, and are hated still by the old compositors of otlier days -,vho still blame the linotype machines ion their being out of ·work. Some of ;tlhe thrillers experienced !by Mrs. I-louse fade into insignificance ,vhen she recalls the l◄.,irst ·National Bank robbery in Eureka Springs nearly eight yeans ago. She was in the 1nidst of this stirring event, and . not only had to cover ·the story for the paper she worked for, 1but for a 1St. Louis pa per as w-ell. She is now local editor of the Carroll Courier, published by Senator F. 0. Bu~t. Mrs. House's brot:heu, Djxie A. Ross, was one of the men that laid the last tie for the 1St. Louis and Eureka Springs railway when it ,vas built from Seligman to Eureka Spring~. Later he becan1e an hu1nble en1ploye, but. ,vent on up until he beca.me n, conductor which place he filled for twenty-five years, and quit during the great st1,ike, although he ,vas not a striker, nor neither did he vote for the strike, but his sympatJhies were with the Union men. Mr. Ross is now a resident of Los Angeles, Calif., but writes Eureka Springs friends he would rather. ow·n a Sinall place in Carroll county than to own all the state of California, and some day he ,vas coming back. Mrs. House worked in the first printing office when A. B. Adams was publisher. 'fhe building was on main s_treet oppo site the Grand Central. Tlhe ,building is illustra1ted above. 56 PIONEER TALES l. 1\. IilTNDY-1870-1882 ntir. 1\1nos I.Jnndy can1)e here in 187D, stayed for a shorit \Y!hile, then r~tnrned lo his hoirne in Indiana and brought his ·wife and fa1nily here in 188:2. I-Ii:s ,vife's eyes ,vere very ,venk and his oldest son had b~en sick a-II his life, s,o he drove all that long dista nee t1hat t.hey 1night drink of the l3as.in water. I-le staked a lot ,vhich ,vas jn~t. helo,v the Crescent spring, and had it snrvcyed, as this was all it took to obtain land. I-le found a trickle of ,vater and traced it, ·which p1'0ved to he later the Crescent spring. I-Iis son and ,vife ,verc cured an as ~hey could not get it through the day owing to the large crowd that was always around the spring. J..;ater he ·was bell hoy at the old Southern hotel, which was under the 1nauage ment -of Mr. Ne,v1na11. Ile also ,v,orked for Major ,vadclill, laiter ta.king np nursing ,vhich he folloiwed for, sixteen years. In 1888 he ,vas n1arried to Nliss 13ellc Dry. I-le is no,v a contractor, and has reared n large fa1njly 1n Eurek~1 Springs. ~IRS. CI-IllYESIS S1\.;NF1ORD-1880 Mrs. Chryesis Lal◄"'orce-S.anford was arnong the early ar rivals in Enreka Springs, having brought her father, 'Who wa~ in the last stag,e.s of cancer, in hopes of prolonging his life. I-le had been kept under opiates for 1nany ,veeks, but after reaching Eureka Springs and applying the 13asin ·water in packs, he never; had to take another opiate, hut died within a :few nllonths after his arrival. Mris. :Sanford first 1net Mr. ,Sanford ,vhen '.he ca1ne to Enreka Springs ,vith his father ,v ho ;vas seeking relief frqm., infla111- 1natory rheu1natis1n. They ,vere 111arried under a tree, just across the Arl~ansas line, in Missourj, in 1881. Mr. Hanford ~vns ,one an1ong ·E,ureka Spuings' first contractors and builders. and; built n1any shacks 1after night. J-Iis ha1n1ner and saw· vrent day and night. The grea,ter i)art of the stone buildings in Eureka Springs ,vere put up by hi-111. He and 11rs. Sanford operated a store for n1any yea.rs ,vhere she and· her daughter, now live, near the Harding spring. The beautiful building is made of native stone quarried from Oi\lr hills. Mrs. Sanford has been in business in Eureka Springs practically ever since 1880, and her daughter, ~Irs. ~faude Dry, is a very efficient business ,von1an and is en~ployed in the Firs't National Bank, and is- strictly an 1\rkansas product. JOHN CARR:OLL-1880 .Hon. John Carroll ,vas horn August 30, 1828, in Claibourne, Tenn. He ,vas reared on the fron1tier and received most of his erlucation by his o,vn efforts, a1nong the Cherokee Indians. He raised three co1npanies for the Confederate service and ,vas m.acle captain under Price, later receiving a colonel's co1n rn1ss1on. After the ,var he settled at Huntsville and engaged in far1rniing and dealing in land. I-Ie ,vas a me1nber of the first legislature that convened after the ·war, and in 1874 ,vas a delegate to the Constituti,onal Convention. In that yenr he ivas appointed sheriff of McDonald county, Missouri, and 58 PIONEER 'fALES ·united States Deputy Marshall for the Western District. of -Arkansas, but still continued ·his business at Huntsville. 1'1Vhen ·Eureka Springs ,vas discovered in 1879 he sold o·ut and became one of the early. business men · of Eureka Springs. lie was engaged in general imerchandise for many year.s, and built the Grand 1Central hotel~ ·which was later destroyed by fire. He became the city's second 1nayor and ,von the suit against Northcut and Alexander, and secured the to,vn site of Eureka Spliings. ' In 1884 he was adim1iltted to the bar and practiced law under the firm na1me of Carroll, ;Glitsoh and Vandeventer, until he w-as ,appointed United 1Staltes Marshall. In October, 1885, Mr. Carroll was ,videly known and ever stood for ,vihait he thought was right and just. He died in Eureka Springs several years ago. The large ce1nent seat at the Basin spring was furnished by the pioneers of '79 and 'SO, and each one ,vas allo,ved to subscribe only 25 cents for its construction. M. If. ·GE·AR-1880 Mr. ~1. F. Gear crnme here in the yeai; 1880 and was so de lighted with the place :that he went back to his .home in Mi~ui,i and moved his. family here in .A.. ugnst of that year. He has lived here ever since, ,vit.h the exception of a ~hort. stay in California where _:he went ·with the intention of ma.king his ho~e, but the lure of ;Eureka Springs ,vas so strong upon him . that he returned and went into the \Vells-Fargo express company's office as their agent and remained there until he was retired in 1926. Prior to his trip to California he and his father-in-law, G. vV. ,Rima, owned and operated a sa-wmill in llill hollow · (hence the name), and furnished a great deal of the lumber that went into the early buildings of this city. Of these buildings there i remain only a fe,v. ALEXANDffiR-1880 Mrs. Rebecca Alexander-Stites. and family came · to Eureka Springs in 1880. As they came down Mill hollow t'.hey ca.mped overnight at the old "Bays place" and set out ivy and calomus roots, which they had brought from the old home place, and \today the hills roundabout their first camping ground are covered with beautiful ivy, a fitting memorial to a fine, beauty loving wom·an. Their first home was in Mill hollow and Mrs. PIONEER TALES 59 Stites remembers a bear coming through their yard and passing on up the hill side. She said it did not seem afraid and no one bothered it. Mrs. Stites and Mrs. House have the dis }tinction of being the only t·wo pupils living in Eureka Springs today who went to the first school which was at the mouth of l\Iill hoJlo,v, and was taught by Mrs. Jack and a Miss Helen Putman. JOIIN DICI(E,NS-1880. Mr. John Dickens ca11ne here in 1880. IIis father, \V. ID. ;Dickens, was a helpless invalid, having been afflicted wit:h :nheumatism and unable to do anything for years, ca.me here in '79. He ,vent home to spend Christmas w-ith his family and was so 1much improved and talked in such high terms of Eureka Springs and its beauty that his son, John, wanted to come and see the wonderful fountain of .,youth -and its romantic sounding :hills. This he did in February, accom(panied by his ·brother-in-law and two friends. They were driving a team 1 of ponies and fron1 the tim:e they reached I..;eathenwood they .# began to find campers, which as they drove closer, beca:me thicker until all the hills looked like a big ca1mping ground. He was told from time to time, as he came along, that he could not get to the spring in their lhack. 'They drove up to the Gadd spring, ,vhich at that time was ·as far as they could get with a ,vagon and team. They were told they would have to drive up Mountain street which was neithe:n street nor road, ·but only a trail. ;He said they stopped and looked up. llis brother in a low voice said, "'Vell, tJhese ponies cannot pull the empty hack up there, let alone with us." frhey got out, thinking they would unhitch, when about that time a tin\an ca1ne ~ along with a team of little mules and a load of lumber. They hit tha\t hill and went up it like a pair of rats. His brother-in-la:w said, "Well, get in boys, if those little old mules can pull it with that load these ponies will or I'll kill them." They found his father can1ped on Center street and after staying two or three days were ready to return, but not John. He said, ',No, I'm not going back. I like the place better than -any I ever saw, and I an1 going to stay." 'He had the first; blacksmith shop here, then went into the hardware business which he has been in for years. Mr. Dickens' father was entirely cured and lived to be an HO PIONEE,R. 'fALES old nian and helped to build 1nany of the buildings in the early days. Even. as early as iu 1880 ·,vaten ,vns being shipped a,vay fro11111 I◄:ureka 1Springs. lVIr. Dickens. says at that tin1e there '\Vas a. n1an nan1ed Tibbs who shipped water fron1 the Ilasin and had a shack ,vhere. Rl.ock~om1\'s hnilding is. He also recalls that l\fr. Tibbs' heard ,vas so long it ·touched the floor. ·Mr. Dickens told of a hnnting trip that he and lJncle ,Jona than Stites 1nade. "It ,va~ Thanksgiving and I rode 1ny pony out to lJncle's house and pnt it in his barn. ,v e then ,vent do,vn · nnderi the hill just a little ,vnys and treed a s 1Jncle ,Jonathan Rhot it and ,ve ,vent on ~ a. litLle wavs., and. treed another one. ,vhile ,vc ,vere argning, its position and ,vhich one ought. to shoot i1t, I heard a noise and lo1oking aronnd, ·within a fe,v feet of n1e Htood two deer. 1Jncle ,J onat:1-an, of conrse, turned his attention to it.he large,r gai,111e and said, ~yon take the bnck and I'll take the doe.' 13ut I said, 'No, I donl Jjke deer. I'd rather have the squirrel,' ,vhich I proceeded rt.o sl1opt a.nd_ the deer, eRca ped. It was alwnys a great joke and one lJncle lonathan delighted to tell.'' -, lI1\ -Dickens has a very vivid 1nen1ory . of the early day~. I-le says, "It ·was one of the ·111:ost' beantifnl sights I ever saw· to. see- fhe deer and wild g;une that ,vere here at that ti1ne. II1he_ deer ,vere so ta+1ne that yon eonld get ,vithin a fe,v feet oJ then1." Major Trne r~.n1r from Illinois in com1pany ,vith Gov. Po,vcll Clayton and .J. ,v. Nc,vport ,vho ,vere all great friends and had served together during the ,Civil w·,ar . . Mr. 'frue had served as 1\:braha.m Lincoln's hostler and be came his. int.i1nate .friend. 1-Iis wife, a l\1iss ntlai,ushall, had rid den i'n a ·gr~at· eq11estrian fete during Abraha1n I"inco1n's f~rnons. dehnte, .. and, Aras chosen queen, and represented the free state of.· I(ansas. It ,vas at this celebra.ted affn.ir that ~Ia_jor 'frue n1et _her-·.fell in love, .and later 1narried her. l\'Iajor :True took an active part in t(1e cnrly history of Eu reka Spri_ngs aligning h:1JI1self with tihe Silk Stockings, while his friend, · Mr. · -N ew111ort, took the active icadership of the Moha 1,vks, thus causing nn estrnngenient in the friendship ,,Thich had existed behYcen the three veterans. ProNI~ER '!"'ALES 61 tT. ,v. N1E,VP 10R'D-1881 ,T. vV. Newport, deceased, as we have stated elsewlhere, beea1ne 1the leader of the l\ioha"vks and l\fain street owes 1nuch to this courageous n1an "Tho was ever ready to sanction the cause of the Ea.st ifountain iand Main ~treet people. Ile and l\1r . •Joe l\!Iat1tocks, father of Fre. n1ayor and filled other offices of 1trust.. l.1at~r he lannched out into the grocery hu~1iness which he folla"Ted for 1nany years and w·hich his son, Earl, now ca1T1P.-; 011. Ile ,vas an active 1ne1nbcr of the I◄.,irst Christian church. My fatheu and Rev. vVillian1 v,r eat1her111an ,vere instnnnental in leading hi1n into this chnrch of which he ,vas a loyal n1r1nber nntil his death. I). I-I. l-I()llJ.)Eii:-1881 ~Ir. and l\'1rs. D. I-I. lloppel't can1e t'o Eurrkn Springs in lRRl fro11n I)olk conuty, 1\rkans,l~, where they o"·ned a farn1 and n1nch stock. They, as tJhonsancls of others, heard of rt.he ~~boon1" nt Eureka Springs and at once sold everything they had nnd r~une. 1'hey can1ped the first night in ,Newtown, and later ,vent into bnsiness there ,vhere they lived for n1any yenrs. NJris. I-lopper ~aid she did not like it at all. Tiiere "~ere so 111\any people and such hurry and bustle. .A.t night she could not sleep for the haan)n1er and sa:w. 'fhe first day she started do,rn to,rn she 1net a crnzy 1nan and it. frightened her so 1 she ,rent back in the house and did not leave it for three ·weeks. She said "Then she ,vent to the Ilasin she had to W'ait for hours, then fight her w:ay through to get a drink. The I-loppers lateu n1ioYed on 81outh ~Iain street and operated a grocery store for several years, then 1noved to North ~Iain street where they no,v reside-having lived there thirty years. Mr. Hopper is one of the fe\Y 1nen living that "'erie in busi ness he.re during the early years. lVIrs. I-lopper says tJhat all her dislike for Eureka Springs "evaporated ~11rclny years ago and that neither of the~n would think of living anywhere else. They have two children-lVlrf;. Minnie Piant, W'ho ,vas two years old ,vhen they ca1ne here, -and ~1rs. Grant Fuller, ·who •points ,vith pride as being native horn. PIONF.I'1R 1''ALES l\frs. Fred 'I'i1nn1ons ca111e to Eureka Spriings in 1881. Her 1nother, lVIr8. l\!Iary Jiarris, \Vas a photographer and crn111e to Eureka S_prings to go into the business. As they drove up '~l\!Iud street" ,they can1e to a large projecting rock ~ where Schnitzer's blacksn1ith shop is no\v, and here the ,von1enfolk 1spent their first night under a huge boulder. 1'hey drove on np to ,vhere B,are & iS;,vett's office is and s:nv a man building a foundation for a house. Mrs. I-Tarris asked hi1n if he ,vould sell. He told her that he would and accepted her offer of • $12.50. They ca1nped back of the lot and hired the n1aI1 froun wih-om they had bought_ it to build the-in a house ,vhich ,vas a three-roo1n affair. It ·was burned in one of the great firo3. Mrs. 'J:i1rnln1ons recalls very vividly the early days. They ca1nped this side of Neosho, 1Vlo., on their ,vay to Eureka Springs and she snid thpt as Rhe heard a train ,vhistle in she hegan to cl'y and said, "I know I never ,vill get. to hear anothrr train ,vhistle. I doH't want to go to old Arkansas where •there's no· trains or anything else.'' lVIrs. 11".in1n1ous' fir~t lhnsband, I-'inzee I(ile, ,vas ki11ed on the bridge spanning ,vhite river this side of 13i\aver, by -the ~1. & N. A. train. 1'he engineer did not see hi111 in ti111e to stop. lle ,vas placed on the train, which hacked into Eureka. Spring~ for :hiin to receive 1nedicn,l attention. Both of his li1nb3 were ren1oved and he died in n. fe,v ;hours. I)m. Bolton, Sr., and Fred, nt {hat :t.i1ne· a boy, ·,vere wi,th hi1rn fishing and witne~sed the tungedy. l\1Irs. ·Steve Reid, t1heir daughter, '"Was only a child at the tirne. Mrs. 'fimanons ,vas an eye ·,vitness to the healing of Jennie Cowan-blind girl that received her sight. Their hori1e ,vtts in sight and hearing of the Harding bath house ,vhere Mrs. 'finnnons Ii ved. She said she heard som1eone screa.n1ing and shouting, "I can see! I can see!" Soon a crowd gathered around tJhe girl whose sight had been restored. The first thing 'her eyes rested upon ,vas the Harding spring. .She had bathed her eyes constantly in the Basin water and did receive her sight. '!'his is known to hundreds of eye witnesses. Mrs. Tin1'mons also entertained a lady who was cured of cancer and only a small scar ,vas left to sho,v ·where it had fallen out. Another case ,vas ~hat of a ,voman, sixty yeans old, ,vho was carried in on a stretcher afflicted with a disease pronounced incurable.· In less than three n1011ths she ,vas a-ble to climb the mountains and go wherever she ,vanted to. l\ifrs. Timmons has lived here ever since· she fiust ca.me and think:8 there is no place like Eureka Springs. She still has the ttrue hosi)itality of the pioneers and before· the writer left •. her ho1ne round herself the possessor of s01ne rare and beauti ful flo,velis. DR. J. II. SlVIITHEiRiS-1881 Let D,1\ tT ohn II. ,Smithers tell in his o,vn words the scene . as lhe first sa.,v Eureka Springs in .A:ngust, 1881, t,vo years a.fter it became a to,vn. "I arrived in Eureka Spring~ in the latter part of Angnst. I ,vas a sick man. I had the 11nalaria fever and had not been able to eat or sleep for three weeks. l g,ot a roo1n with anotheiu 111an ·for the night at the I(ansas house. ,VVe procured a pail and diJ)per and sta1ted for th'e 'cure-all' spring. ~Ve got down dose to ,vhere the express office nmv is a~1d that ,vas as close as we could get for t:he people. They ·were standing in a. line and every one had to ,vait theiii turn. \Ve got in line and after ,Yhat seemed hours, got to the ,vater. "I dipped 1my pa.il full nnd went over in the shade and sat thore 'til I drank it all. I then waited m~ turn again and got another bucket full and carried it. to. my room and drank it. all that night. Next nrorning I got up, ate a hearty breakfast, and from that time on continued to in1prove. I stnyed about three W'eeks and ·was entirely cured and went about my_ 1business. I liked ;Eureka Springs so ·well I decided to go there and live, which I did." Dr. S,mithers and lhis ,vif-e opened a tailor shop which w·as destroyed by 1the 'Spring street fire. They then 1m,oved to St. Louis and established a good business, but their firs't love, :Eureka Springs, still drew thein back and they have purchased property here. Dr. Smithers holds a degree as physician and chemist, and says that the reason the analysis of tlhe Basin spring water does not sho,v 1nedicinal properties is t;lutt the arserious acid, or arsenic, is in the form of small silvery scales, ,vhich when exposed to light and air, disappea.r, in t_he form of gas. This, he says, accounts for the popping that occurs when the cork is ren1ov,ed. (54 -· T. F. I-I,nvley, veteran of the Civil ,var, en/me here fro111 .()hio .in the early days, as a last resort to prolong his life, as'. the doctors had told hin1 he could not live oiver three· 111onths . .}Iis br,other-in-1,nv, L. lJ. Spencer, had been to the Springs, nnd had seen such. woudrrfnl ctn1~s that in his extl'eini·ty Mr~ I-Iaw·ley, loo, turned to the Si],oa1n of thr 1\fflictcd. ,v1hen he ,yas pass,ing over the ~ta te ]ine of ,_A.rkansas son1eone on t.he itra.in 1nade the reJ1nark that they ,vere no,v in '.ATknnsas. I-Te raised the ·,vindo,v iand threw ou 1t 1nedieine hobt]es, re1narking he had CO'Jnc to J\.rkansas to g-Pt well. :So ,vell did the ,v:1ter of E.u reka Springs do its "Tork Mr. llawley lived n1or\l than twenty five years and beea~ne one of the ciity's staunchest hnsines\~ 1ne11. IIe ,and his good ,v1ife -owned and operated a hook sto,re for> years. It can trn ly be said of l\1r~. lf a,v Icy that. no other one person has done so 1l1111ch for the civic hen uty of Enrck,1 Springs ,as she. The beantif11l flow,Pr g-ar Col. Bet.ten \Yas brought to Eureka Springs on a s1tretcher. in 188Tl, bringing his burying clothes ,vith 1hi,Jn. He had served throughout the "·ar, and developed a n1alady ,vhich all the doctors ,Yho had exarnined him pronounced incurable. .l\..s a last resort his loved ones hronght hin1 to the "Siloam. of the Afflicted," hut ,vithont hnn1ch hope for his recovery. Bnt as in1possibl~~ as it set~1ned, after a tedious battle for life, he began to improve nnd lived in Eureka Springs thirty years ·before death clai1ned hi1n. Ilis daughter, Mrs. )Valt Herod, gave :me this story and was to have given 1ne a n1ore deta.iledl acconnt of her father's life, but a £e,v days afterwand she 1,vent to join the host. of loved ones in that land froin ·whence tno traveler returns. It 111ade 1ne sad a:s I looked at the notes, tJhat only a short tiJne ago she had given n1c, and told 1ne ho,v glad she ,vas that I had undertaken the ·work. Mrs. Ile-rod ,vas the first "hello'' girl in Eureka iSpriings, and ·will ever he re ·mem'bered for her sweet, snnny disposition and her ,villingncss :to n1inister to others in hon rs of suffering and s01To"r. IlIIJ" Y DA.RI1ER 8orr1e curious sights ,vere ~:PPn in the 1notley throng of past days. Vehicles of all description wcl'e dnrwn hy all n1anner of anim:als. One ,vhcib. aroused a great deal of c01n1nent ,vas a tean1 co1nposed of a j inny and a three-year-old heife1\ The ,heifer not only helped to drai,v 1tihe wagon, hnt also fnrnished n1ilk for the fa1rr1ily. It ,vas no unusual sight to sec people nnhitrh their 00,vs. and 1ni1k the1n. 'l'he lnte lTncle Billy Ilnl'ber, ,vho ahvnys 111anaged to see fi1e Judicrons .side of things, told 1ne this: ''Late one eYening a nian and ,voman drove np in a ,vagon. 'They had ,Yith them fionr children, a brother-in-la,v., sister-in- 1a,v and thirteen clogs. 1,he ,vagon ,vas diriffwn hy a tea.m o-f two-year-old steers. '!:he next ·n1orning he discovered one of the s-teers ,vns sick. I-le called a n1an over to see if he knew what ,vns the n1atter ,vith it. The man told him it had the hoUo,y tail, and that he would have to split it and put some salt. on it. The owner said, 'iv\7 ell, if it's hollo,v, it aint any good, "',hy not cut it off?'_ 'The 1nan said he guessed that ,votdd work. :They proceeded to arrtputate the tail. The next t.rnorning he discovered the other one ,vas sick too. He pro- reeded to 'detail' it and botlh got ,Yell." I have ahvays heard that one ·way to cure a disease was to remove the cause-it seemed to ,vork in this case, for after a. few days' rest this unusual family moved on. All the ,old-timers estimated the number of people here in 1881 to be between fifteen and twenty 'thousand. The hills were covered ·with people and there were a few shacks and a lot of camps. Uncle B,illy is another one ·of the old Bettlers who :have passed away since my intervie,v ,vi'th him. 66 J>JONEER TALES p,o,vEiI.'1,. CI.1.A YTO~"fl-1881 Governor l~o·well Clayton caJne here in the year of 1881. I-le ,vas a nu1n of no little distinction, having served eight yenrs under !)resident ~icl(inley as a:in1bassador to ~Iexico and also as senator and a,·ovPrnor of this state. Ile ,vas a L, 1nan of vision and at once perceived that Enreka Springs ,vas botJnd to beco1ne fan1ons. Ile caught the vision of the futnrc iand ,ve :have hi1n to thank today for Jmfttny of the g,ood things ,ve enjoy. In fact, this vjsinn ,vas so far ·reaching that ~nany ,of our folk conld not visualize it and he at once f.nnnd hi.1n self in a predica.n1ent that n1ost. of onr far-visioned lender~ have fonnd the1nselves in, that of being di,sliked and opposed in his undertakings. ,ve have to thnnk hi111 for bringing the railroad to I~n1reka :Spr·iugs and for the Crescent college; also the old anclitori111n and 1oiu· water and sew,er ~y.;.;teans. Governor ,Clayton was 1uore Ol" lesq of the aggressire type and the,refore 1nade nrnny ene1nies as ·well as friends. I-le bec~unP the leader of the Spring street and ,vest Ivionn ltain folk, w:ho ,rere nielouuned the Silk Stocking;,, while the Main street, fiolks ,vere cailled tht1 :~foha,wk:-::. l'hcre wns a great deal of rivnJtry between the two clans, and wih~1t on(} proposed, the othPr ,upposed, "'hich ean1e · very near leading ,to ,vnr in a fe,v instances. Main street ,vns nt that ti.n-e the business part of the t A beantifnl tribnte is paid (iiov. C'layton in 1the follo,ving article clipped fro11n Ozark I~ife. I do not, kno,v the anthor hnt I a1n snre she will forgive 1ne for using it and I a1n satisfied son1e of the old-ti1ners will recognize her: "Tales of the ,voods nnd hills of Indiana ~u1d Pennsylvania aiJ:·,e a1nong 1ny earliest recollections. 'f'.hey see1ned like fairy tnles to 1ne, a child of the plains, so ,v hen ,ve ·went into the hills of northern .A.rkansas to 13entonville and Eureka Springs, I kne,v I ,vas in fairy land. Such w-onderful oaks fron1 ,v h ich fell fairy cups and saucers; such heaven kissing hills, and rivers ,Yhose ,va1ters ,vere as clear as air. ffhe double log houses on the far1ns; the big fire places in both to,vn and fa1111 hon~es, and the lovable, friendly people ,vere never end ing sources of delight. "lVIost beloved of all the nld-tim1ers was one-ar1ned · Governor Clayton. I have always pictured hin1 standing alone, de fending the Union, and losing that ar'\Jn. It has been years and years since he was governor, but- he bore the title to his dying day, and no one eveir~ said "Ex-Governor." He ,vas a great speaker, and ca1npaigner; ,vhen :he returned from a speaking trip, the band and girls' glee club of ·which I ,vas a 1nember, ahvays ,vent to the .station and escorted him to his ho1ne. the old Crescent hotel. '''Ve rode in dude carts; happy were the children who could pile in the dude cart ·with Gov. Clayton and find sihelter of his one arnn. My daughter Charlotte is na1med for his GS older daug~hter .. " ..A..11 our friends were not so pro1uinent. ,,re had kno,vn Indians on the great plains, h11t ,ve found and loved our first '"niggers~~ at Bentonville. It "ras a dear delight to go through our ·garden and call nci•oss the alley for "NiggcP .E11111na" to crnne play ,Yith us. I-Ier 1no'ther ,vashed onr clothes, so ,ve felt sure "~e ,Yere akin. She never resented being called "Nigger En1111a" and it never occurred to us to call her si1n:ply E1nma. "vVe nutcle earth caveH and buried apples, and ate hard little green cncn1nhers, held revivals and hacl fun era ls. l\!Iy brother Motton ahvays a11 i1nprcssive sole,11111 voiced prearhcr, had one failing. vVhat.soever he baptized in the poud, he left to lie nnder w·ater fau ever after. ,re 111ade eorn do1ls and braided their ~ilken hair, and had a gl'Orions tin1e. I)id ,ve teach (he niggers, or did they teach ns? No,v that I a1n gro,vn and know better, I still cling to a few negro superstitions. :Wiy own children and I spit if a black cat rnns in front of the car, and the charrn has ahv-nys averted disastrr.~'-Dai.sy J.J:ties ~1axey. ,v. B. nR.ot,VN-1881 . Mr. ,v. Il. Ilro,rn ca1ne to ·Eureka Springs in the year of 1881. Ile de~cribes the to,vn as a pi.ne ,vilde:vne~s ,vjth a few 1 1 shacks and a lot of tents and people everyw(1c•t,t\ Il0 said i l ,vas a. "rough and ready'~ place jn tho:--:e day~. and a !horn and she, "1nuch beskirted," lifted her ski1~ts and made haste to get out of the way. Poor things of today ,vould haveJ 1110 skirts to lift, consequently would have to take rthe mud shower. lVIr. Bmown served as Chief of [>olice and n1ayor t,vo years. The author owes lVIr. Brown "1nany thanks" for his kind ness in helping wi:th her book. Ile has a very distinct re-1 me1m!brance of tJhe early days and has ·helped 1ne check np on 1nany of {he early incidents related. Jlis olvn life ,vonld make an interesting book if he ,vonld ,vrite it. tT.A.MES OvY.'E!NS-1881 Mr. tT ames O,vens, known as "I-Ia;pipy ,TiIY1 ,, hecaus~ of his happy disposition, ,vas one of the city's early arrivals and has lived heue ever since, and thinks there is no place like Eureka Springs. Z. P. FR,EEM.AN-1881 Mr. Z. P. J?reen1a.n, who has the distinction of being tlhe oldest n1an in I~ureka Springs, is 03 years old and a fine exa!n1ple of ,vhat Eureka Springs ,vater and climate can do for a ,venkling. I-le ca111e here in the year of 1881 and ·was closely 1associated ·with Governor Clayton and aided him in all his ,vork. Ile served as n1ayor, of ·Eureka Springs for t.,vo year&-i 1893 and '94. I-le says :that ti1nes ,vere hard ,vhen he was tmayor and that the only ,vay the city had of raising money ,was by i,ssuing scrip whie:h for several years was ,vo.rth only 10 cents on· the dollar. For five years the cifty had no grant, therefore ·was not itaxable, and the n1oney received fro1n fines and their 10 cent scrip is all they had writh which to build. Yearlings sold for $1 and $2 per head and $10 was a good price for a cQ,v. # 1Vhile l\tir. Freenl'an was in office scrip became worth 50 cents on the dollar. vVhen he took the office the city's indebted ness was $38,000 and ·when he left it ,vas $28,000. Prior to, this he ·was in the lumber business and foro a while partner with l\1r. lVI. F. Gear. nir. Freeman is some,Yhat of a poe:t and has ·written many beautiful poe1ns ,vhich have been pub lished in the local papers. He is a Civil war veteran and a! great nature lover. lie is as much in love with Eureka Springs no,v as when he can1e here fifty years ago and sees a great futu,re for it iHe has taken an active part in the progress of Eureka Springs and is a living example of ·what 70 PIONEEH TALES H:he water and n clean, ,vholesorne life can do for a mun. Jlis poeu1, '~'The Basin 1Spring,'' portrays the early picture of E.11reka Springs. ,v e are glad to include thiF poein in "Pioneer Tales." Cctiue all you ·w:ho are afflicted 1\.nd listen to n1y song; It's of one ,vho ,vas sick and "~eak, But no-,v is ,vell and strong. llis face ,vea.us the hloo1111 of yout.11, His Jin19Js are snpple · and strong, Jie ,va]ks ·with a stride of a ,v esterner As he g,1ily marches along. I-le cnnl(-~ to Eureka for health; Ile ,vernt to the Ba.sin each dny, IIe found that for ,v.-hich he had song-hit l., And n1n Ile "~anted all his friends to con1t~ .A.. nd drink at the fountain of youth, To be. henled of all rt.hcin disenses .A.nd know he hnd told theun the truth. They ca111e-til1e halt, the lnn1e, the blind To drink this pure water Ro cold. They said he hnd told t~:1ern _the truth, But the half had never been told. Many fell in love with the to,vn And began its praises to sing, ,vho had been healed of all their ills Frorn1 drinking at 1the Basin spring~ . O1thers heard of the n1any cures lThat ,rere affected every day. They came in droves f.l:o-in everyw-rhere, 1\nd you could not kee:p the111 a,vay. They stood in line to take their turn; .Their 'buckets and bottles did hring, To catch the pure water that flo\ved :From out of ithe B.asin spring. PIONEER ;fALES 71 Many came in those early years, And s01ne concluded to stay. Though nine anrl forty years have passed Saine are still ,vith us today. l1ay t}hese pnre ,vatcrs ever flo-w lfor the healing of the nations, For they are the 1nost "Tonderfnl Of all our Lord's creations.. iDJ~. C. 1E. D·A_ VIS-1881 Dr. Davis ca1n1e to Eureka Springs in February, 1881. I-le says, "My coining to Eureka ,81pri ngs was an accident. Nly wife, ,vho had spinal 111eningitis and "ras very ill, ,vas told she could not live in Chicago, where ,ve :tihen lived. I, being )a physician, ln1ffw it ,vas 1b1me, but ,vhere to go. The hot springs in 1N e,v Mexico ,vere !highly rccom1nended for such • trouble but I did not believe my ,vife ·would live to get there. I kne,v a 1nan by the nan1e of Johnson, ·who a:t tha,t ti1ne ,vas in partnership ·wi·th Major vVaddill in running the I-Ian cock house in Eureka Springs. I-le had forn1erly been con nected ,vith a sanitarinn1 of I-lot Springs, ,New Mexico. Realizing something ·had to be done for n1y ,vife, and be done quickly, I decided tihe best thing to do ·was to go to Eureka ,Springs and talk ,vith ,Johnson and get first hand information. T,his I did, arriving in Selign1an just · a fe,v days after the first train had run into Beaver. There were still stu1mps sticking up bet,veen the · ties. fflhe first .thing I did was to interview Johnson. I told him of my wife's condition and J Qhnson replied, ''Iihe place for your ,vife is 1~ight here.' Hle ci1ted me to case ~1fter case ·of incurables "Tho had been brought here and were getting ·well." Dr. Davis said i•t sounded so mucih like a fairy.. tale that he could not :believe it, bult at once set a·b(~1t to investigate. For a ,veek he ,vent into tents and intervie,ved and examined patients just as he would have done in his office in Chicago, until he was thoroughly convinced that it was t111e.; that. they ·we:re being improved and cured by the hundreds. He at onoo returned home and brought his wife, who ,vas so ill that lhe ·had to carry her in his anns, ,vith pillo,vs under her to absorb'. .the shock of the stage. Their t,vo children (Mrs. Crystal Lyle of this city being one) were left behind for a few months until =====-=-=--=--=--=--=--=--=---=-======their 1nother was greatly i111proved. In three ,veeks from that time Dr. Davis returned froan town one day to find his ·wife in tears. lJpon inquiring Hie reason she said, "I don't kno,v Jwhich is ·worse, being here where I can't see anyone I kno",', ;or ;being there where I a111 not able to see anyone." Dr. Davis said he kne"T then she \Vas het,ter and fro111 thalt. ti:mie on she; began to in1prove and lived for, thirty years-long enough to rear her family. They ·went back to Chicago whe-re Dr. Davis had a big practice and a lovely ho1ne, but each ti1ne it.hey ha.d to return to Eureka Springs, for each ti1ne her old tronble ,vonld re turn. Dr. Davis is given ·honorable mention ju ''Physicians and Surgeons of A.-merica," also cited as an authority in the leading te0hnical books of his day. Dr. Davis has done mnch for ·Enreka Sp1nings. It ·was he. ,vho financed the ·waterworks, and n1any other buildings o"f ;the early days. \Vhcn the bnilding of the Crescent wns being considered Gov. Clayton was in favor of building it jnst bclo"v !fl1e Crescent spring, but when he consnUed l>r. D,avis as to 1,he feasibility of the place, I)r. Davis said, '"Never, GoY(i:1mor, 1 the only place for that ihotel is on the n101_1111tain top.' ~' Ile kne,v it ,,;ould cost money to put the ,vater on the mountain, but he realized that so-1ne day the ,vater would ' have to be piped 'there any,,Tay. ,ve have hi111 to thank for our beautiful trees ,vhich line either side· of our drive,va .,v from the old Auditoriu/n1 to the I-larding spring. ' One day 1he and Govornor Clayton ,vere ont walking and were talking of the ,vay cn-rnpers ·· cut. all the trt1e3 around Eureka Springs ,vhen he said, "Governor, do yon kno,v ,vhat I ·would do if I could f' "No," replied Clayton, '\vhat ,vould yon do?" "I ·would require each man to plant two or three trees when they bought a lot to replace the beautiful trees thait. they have destroyed.'' ·Out came Clayton's note book, and that clause ,vas included in the deeds, and tlhat is ho,v ,ve crun1e to have the beautiful shaded drive,vay-a fine monnn1ent for any 111an, an(l one of ,vhioh Eureka Springs should be justly proud. l(UY.KE,N1l)ALL-SAI{G EIN'T-1881 Mrs. Mary I(uykendall-Sa,rgent of Los Angeles, Calif., \\"'rites, "Do you remember the ,vild bear that Roh Gray, the saloon P IONEEH. 'I' ALES man, caught and fa$tened under the building Hu1t becan1e the Bellohannber drug store, and ho,v everyone in to,vn, see1ningly, ,vas looking over from the side,v.alk at iit? I ca1ne along fron1 Sunday school and started to pass by :when over I ,vent and fell within three inches of the bear's reach after he ,vent to the end of his chain. 1\. n1nn cli1nhed down a sort of lattice ,vork and picked 1ne up and carried ane hon1e. ,v c then lived ,rhere Oscar Johnson's oil station no,v stands. l\Iy n1other taught a subscription school there and I leairned to read, ,vrite and spell before I can re1nember about it; also do you re1nen1be.n Nliss Julia ..A .. da111s' school up ,v here 'rot Carroll used to li vc street back of the court house-and old Nir. 'ferry, the crossest teaclher ever ,v,as? ''My parents ,vere n1nong the ftu~t n101nhers of the l\fethodist church, and all ,v,ho ever kne,v tn11y 1nother loved her. She used to 1nake up clothes for the very poorest fa1nilies. She ahvay,s 1nade hvo suits o:f eYcrything# til1at tJb.e3e needed. Mr. and Mrs. ,Jenning:;;; and n1y paren1ts ,vere the olde8t. of friends, having kno,vn each qither during the ,vnm and before either ,vere ~narried." "~Iy fnther had a place near Altus, ..A .. rk. He ,vas farm1ing on shares and had the crops all in ,vhen thei,r, oldest son, 1\..lvin, died after three days' illness. Tlh.e suddenness of his death ,vas such a shock to my n1other that the doctor advised n1y father to staut traveling with her. l\1y fat.her had ten head of cattle :and a yoke of oxen and a young colt that had belonged to Alvin. 'I'hey hitched the oxen to a wagon and had Buster lead the colt and drive the co,vs behind the ·wagon. One of the cows ,vas still giving m'ilk so each night and morning she ,vas n1i lked for our use. # "It see1ned there ,vasn't any place in vie,v ·when they started, OJut after a fe-w days they heard of the Ozarks. ,T1hey couldn't make more than six or eight n1iles a day because of so many co,vs, and Buster got tired of ,vallring and rode the colt. That 1m1ade it easier fo:n hin1. It took two weeks to make the trip. l\rfy sister and rnother gathered huckleberries along the road-first they had ever seen-and oh, ho,v good they ,vere ! vVhen they arrived at Rock House n1y father traded six cows for twenty acres of land. rrhere ,vas a good garden gro,ving. On account of malaria in the Arkansas river valley no one could eat cucu1nbers. My 1nother ,vas so happy over the fine garden that they decided to stay. The country ,vas ,vell sup-. 74 PIONEER TALES ~ plied ,vit1h wild ani111als, panthers in particular, and 1ny first recollection was concerning one of them. I ,vas three years old. "My fa:ther did quite a bnsiness of buying up livestock and sending it to St. I--'ouis for sale. I-le went all ·through North west Arkansas and the business gre,v to such an extent that it caused our reinoval to .Eureka Springs in 1881. It ,vas one night when he ,vas a,vay on one of these tri!ps my mother had her "ash hopper'' ,uunning lye, and started to go outside and empty the vessel containing the lye water w:hen we heard the ho,vl of the panther. I can see her still, seeiningly just frozen, at the door. She never tended the ash hopper that. night and of course lost quite a lot of lye. 8he ahvays 1nade her o,vn soap, even up to the last years we lived there. "It ,vasn't long after that until ,ve moved into Eureka Springs. The health of the entire family ·was very bad. My father, ·weighed about 13~5 pounds and his hair ,vas already gray. Ilut it ,vasn't 1nany Hnlonths until he ,veighed over 200 pounds and his hair again beca111e dark bro,vn, alnlost black. 1\i1y p~irents rented a little house of one room and lean-:to, back of Sa-wyers' barn. l\tiy father opened a grocery store and butcher ~,hop in the building that "'as later occupied by, Curley Smith on Main street. ''Tlhe malaria had 1nnde too much progress in t,vo of the children, Ada and John, and they passed a,vay a couple of years after their arrival in Eureka Sp.nings. It ,vas vvhile livi11g ~here, back of the store, that n1y mother had a house built on the lot next door. In those days it w·as called "j un1p jng a lot." There my father ,vent into the dairy business and re111ained during the rest of his life. He died at Ft. Smith March 7, 1896. · He was buried in the Odd Fellows ce1111e:tery' at Eureka Springs. Alice Can1pbell-Davis said she ,vould never forget the day my father ,vas buried as it was her wedding day and everybody in to,vn vras at his funeral, in cluding her own lll110fl1er, and she could not be 1narried until it was over. · "My n1other desired, above everything else, that her chil dren have a good education. She ,vas a deeply consecrated Christian. v,Thilc we were in very 1noderate circrn1nstances, she always found a ,vay to help others in ,vorse condition than ourselves. In her own neighborhood she was like an angel of mercy to the sick and needy. Men11bers of the Methodist PIONEER TALES 75 church ,vere her closest friends. ,She ,vas a very quiet, un assu1ning, gentle w01nan and a reul friend· in tiine of need. "Two years after my father died 1ny oldest sister caime vVest and sent for our mother and ,ve and Alfred and George came too. l..1ater on Buster ca1ne. So our lives and interests beca.me identified with I,os .1\ngeles, Calif., but our hea,rts re main very loyal and often ,ve beco1ne hc•m;esick for dear old .Eureka Springs . "One thing in particular I reme1nber in n1y early school days and has a lasting iimpression on n1y life, ,vas w1hen Cleveland was running for president and Claude Fuller got us all in line, day after day, to march for Cleveland. I think I 1nust have been nine or ten years old, hut it n1ade me a Democrat, and ·wlhile all the rest of the fai111ily ·have changed their politics, I have remained loyal to that early training ,ve got fro111 Claude's marshalling his troops for Cleveland. Of course he never could have been elected, but for us, and those school grounds up at the old Lan1a.D building echoed and re-echoed to our shouts for Cleveland. I think then ,vas ·when I first :began to expect great things fran1: Claude, and while you folks see him in his full 1nanhood, I ahvays see hin1 as a schoolmate, reaching up to high attain1nents. This ,vas just the beginning of dear old Prof. Barnett's taking over our public schools. School days, c•hildlhood days, at dear old Eureka Spvings ! Never, never can I fo,rget the1n !'' B. J. ROSEvV ATER-1882 B. J. Itose-\vater came to Eureka Springs fro1n his former .ho1ne, Cairo, Ill., in August, 1882, for the benefit of his health. He in1proved so rapidly and liked the place so well that he decided 'to n1ake Eureka Springs his permanent home. At that period and for three years thereafter Eureka Springs was in a chaotic and unsettled condition, for the reason that the title to the land on which the to,vn is located ,vas in liti gation in the United States court at Fort Sn1itlh. Different .claimants contested each other and all contested the clai•m of the city to the to,vn site. Vl-rhen the litigation finally ended and concrete e:fforits began to 1nake of Eureka ·Springs a substantial, •attriactive to,vn, Mr. Rose,vater aligned hi1nself ,vith General Clayton and other leading spirits ·who were in the forefront in the move111ent. Mr. Rosewater's first outstanding acccmr- plishment was the raising of th~ money to fence, clean of the 7G 1.) ION EI~H 'I' ALES ' . nnderbrush and so,v into grass the Basin spring re~ervnt1on. SuLsequently he helped to organize the ,Conunercial C1ub which preceded the present Chnn1ber of Conunerce, and served for eight years as ~ecretary o-f the club and fonr years as president. Of the eighty-three n1e111hers of the club only three are still living in Eureka Springs--Z. J>. Freernan, Dr. C. I~"'. Ellis and Rose,va ter. ~fr. Rosewater was a n1en1hen of the co1n1nission ,vhich i1n -proved the I1asin spring and provided t!he present circular space in front of the spring and fountains. vVith Mr. Free n1an he ,vas inst.rusted by the city conncil ,vith the re.snnvey and preparation of the plot of Eu~reka Springs kno,vn as the Riley survey. I-le succeeded G·eorge C. Christian as director and secretary of the Interstate Sun1111er Nonnal and I~ son and Harry ,vickha11n are three of his appointees still serv ing in the office. July 24, 1900, Mr. Rosewater n1arDied Gertrude M. Britts, the daughter of Captain S. H. Britts, Civil "~ar veteran ·who moved froin Minnesota, first to a farm near Golden, Mo., then to Eureka Springs in May, 1880. RIC:IIA.RD I(ERE1NS !The story of Eur~ka Springs and the influences ·which helped to shape its destiny during the early period of the town, ,vould be incomplete ,vit1hout the mention of Richard I(erens of St. Louis, prominent in the business ·world and a,n]bassador to Austria during the Mcl{inley ad1n:inistuation. Mr. I(erens ,vas ·a close personal and political friend ·of General Clayton and it ·was his assistance that enbled General Clayton to build the railroad fron1 Selig1nan to Eureka Springs and later on to build the Crescent hotel. , Mr. l(erens, like General Clayton, ·was greatly attached to Eureka Springs. ·He erected w1hat is known as the I(erens n1etnorial cha1_:>el belo,v the Crescent hote1, at the spot ·where Mr. l(erens last sa,v his mother alive. It is a. beautiful stone structure and with 'tihe ca 1npanile cost in the neighborhood of fifty thousand dollars. At the time the chapel ·was built Mr. l(erens intended to build on the adjoining ground a resi dence for himself and considerable ·work ·was done preparing the g~ound for the building, but subsequently fate decreed other,vise. 'l'he officers of the Frisco raproad ·were, during those early days in the history of Eureka. Springs, g;ooatly interested in t!he place. The passenger department of the company spent several thousand dollars yearly in exclusive advertising of its advantages to the health and pleasure seeker. The Frisco was also a prominent stockholder in the Crescent hotel and the pas senger departn1ent op&iated it until the Interstate CQmmerce Law was enacted by congress. The hotel was during that period opened the first ·week in l\tiarch and kept open until about the end of October and was so ·well patronized that plans were under consideration to erect an annex. ,v. C. HULIJ-1885 1'r. C. Hull came here from Jefferson county, I(ansas, in 1885 for his and his wife's health ·which was greatly improved, and he lived to be 55 years of age ·when he ,vas bitten by a 78 PIONE~R TALES mad dog (hydrophobia) and after sixty days died ·with tJhis terrible malady, within a n1ile . of the ,vriter's ho1ne, near vVinona spring. His son, James Hull, married my eldest sister, Nancy. Pinkley, and it was in thei\n home that he was stricken and died. T1hough only a child, I have a vivid memory of the terrible agonies of this dread disease, and until this -day I have a horror of dogs. :DR. C. F. ELI.'1S-1889 Dr. C. F. Ellis, ·who has been one of our most distinguished citizens since his aril.'rival in 1889, ,vas the son of a· prominentt manufacturer of Elkhart, Indiana. He rtook his degree in ·medicjne from the Ho1neopathic college in Ne,v York City_ He later att,ended IN ew York Post Graduate school, an Allopathic jnstitution. ~Vhile there he nttended the noted clinics of Ne,v York lTniversity and Bellevue hospital. Ile has also aittended clinics in the noted Hnrneopathic ~Ietro~. politan hospital, the largest hospital in tlie- ,vorld. Later he took his degree of eye and ear specialist in t:1e Ne,v · Y:or1k Ophthahnic college, graduating with·. first honor. I-le also at tended the P·hilade]phia School of I-Ion1eopaithy and ,vas gradu ated_ fron1 the Illinois Post (}raduate Schoo! of Electricity of Chicago. He· also graduated fron1 the Electronic college of San Francisco. · Dr. Ellis :has been a practicing physician in the 1tuwn · for forty yearr, and fr~mi the very first identified :himself with. the best interests and n1ost prXJgressive elen1ents of the to,vn .. He joined the Silk Stockings under the leadership of General Clayton. -He has given unstintedly of his time, his money and his in ,tellect, to the upbuilding of his adopted city. He helped organize and was one of the ~riginal directors of the Eureka Street Railway. 'i\i'\Then he came here ►he found a to-wn built 1nostly of shacks, without water or se,verage, at the mercy of fire and disease, and with no transportation facilities. He helped or ganize the Summer Normal and Assembly, which organization ·built the old auditorium, an outdoor building which seated almost four thousand people. This organization brought here some oi · tthe most distinguished speakers of the day, among them being "\Villiam Jennings Bryan, Sam Jones, Bob Taylor, Eugene Debs and many others. It has been said that · Dr .. Ellis has taken stock in every enterprise ever -organized in PIONEER 'l'ALES 79 Eureka Springs; and ,vhether he l,ost or ,vhether he won, it was always the smn1e-he helped with the next effort. Dr. Ellis was the family physician of General Clayton and has numbered and still numbers his patients among some of the most pro1ni nent people of · the nation. He was for twenty years house physician of the Crescent hotel when it was run by the Frisco railway. He has never lacked for patients and has sent medi cine to every state in the 1Jnion, besides to Canada, England, Sci0tland, ·Germany and China. I-Iis 1nedical articles ·which are not always orthodox, !have been quoted not only in this country, but a:broa d. I-le is a close student on every question, m£dical and ota1errwise, and in every ,vay has tried to bring his home town into prominence. We look upon the ,vork of Dr. Ellis in helping to establish the waterworks and se,verage in Eureka 1Springs as one of his most outstanding achieveunents, as it is the ·most i1nportant con tribution to the city's permanent gro,vth and ·welfare. It. ,vas " no small tusk at tha\t ti 1me to fa~e the deter1nined OP,posi-t.ion and to get the o,vners of real estate to vote theili property to t1he raising of over a hundred thousand dollars for local improven1ent. The work ,vent for,vard and as ti1nes ,vere hard in 1892 and the credit of the to,vn doubtful, it took almost unlimited effort and a long time to sell bonds. They were finally sold to the Bro,vnell Const\vuction Con1pany of Chicago to install the wa:tevworks and sewerage system. Thus was Eureka. Springs given a splendid ,vater system and fire pro tection and se,verage which protected our springs. It was the first tffwn of i:ts size in the state, and in many states, to achieve such an in1portant in1proven1ent, and from that time has gone steadily for,,vard in all that pertains to a health resort. Dr. Ellis as president of the health board had enacted the present la,vs in regard to the city maintaining certain sanitary conditions. He ·wrote to a great many cities and health r.esorts throughout the nation and, ,vriting requirements, had George Christian, who ,vas then city attorney, put them in legal form and .presented them to the council and they ,vere passed. The elder Dr. Bolton was on the board of health with Dr. Ellis at this time. Dr. Ellis ·was one of the organize:ns of the Chamber of. Com merce and has been · one · of its n1ost progressive members ever since. He has been· the n1ain stockholder in three newspapers and has been an ardent fighter for the best interests· of the 80 PIONEER TALES city in every way. Ile is a fearless fighter foJ., his principles, saying ahvays that. he ·would go do,vn in defeat fig,hting for his princi,ples than sit in tJhe seaits of .the mighty and forget his principles. Mr. Bro,vnell, head of the Bro,vnell Constrnction Company, on his last visit here said he had never kno,vn a 1nore untiring ,vorker fon his town than Dr. Ellis. That "~hen the ,vatcr systen1 ,vas being installed the doctor sat up night after night after t-welve o'clock after a hard day in his profession, going over the plans and drafts of the se-wer syste1n and helping ,vork out endless deitails ·which made a first, draft an aln1ost .endless labor on account of the topography of the city. Mr. Ilri0,vnell said Dr. Ellis ,vorked untiringly ,vith never a cent of pay. Ile ·was for thirteen years secretary of ·t!hc Board of ,,Tater and Sewer Co111J1nissioners, ,vorking ·without ueco~npense f.or the good of his beloved city. Dr. Ellis ,vas the first 1nan in tcnvn to put do,vn a cen1en!t side,valk. He ,vas also it.he first n1an to hnve a ,vnter systein in his hon1le. He· 1nade a tank roon1 of one of the upstairs roc\zTus of his ne,v ho1ne on Prospeot avenue and caught the ,vater fro111 the eaves and installed a: modern and up-to-dnte bathroom. He still has :tlhe first tub in a 1private ho1ne in the city and it is the only solid porcelain tub in the city. His money has ahvays been invested in his ho1ne to,vn and vicinity. I-Iis farm is ani:ong the 1nany modern :fanms in the county and he is no,v developing a herd of registered Guernseys and some prize ,vinning Rhode Island Reds. He' is a. Republican in politics which isn't an ahvays easy thing in our state. And the same fiery zeal he lhas shown in politics he has shown in his work for .his home town and in his profession, fighting for the right as he sees it. He has friends all over the country to ·w~hom he constantly ,vrites of :the virtues of our city calling it ahvays 1Vat1tre's Sanatori1trn-. C. S. BAI{NFJT·T-1889 Prof. C. 1S. Barnett came to Eureka Springs in 1889 from Ohio. I-le had taught school eight years prior to his coming to this city-four years in l(entucky and fon,1, years in Ohio. His first high school class ,vas composed of three pupils and ,vas taught in the old Lamar building on Mountain street. ~Two of this class graduated. l\fiss ·Nellie Mills,· ·who is teaching· school in Monett, Mo., and Miss Hida Bro,vn, who resides near PIONEER 'f ALES 81 St. Louis on a farm, composed the first graduating class in Eureka Springs which ·was in the year of 1889. There was then a school tax of only 5 1nills, and today, May 17, 1930,,: ,vhen this was ,vritten, Prof. Ilarnett, weak and ahnost blind, had Mrs. Annie Honse guide his hand to vote for an 18 mill 1tax. I beileve we can truthfully say that there is no other 1t111an living in Eureka Springs that has done so 1nuch in an edu-i cational way as has ~fr. Barnett. I-le served thirty-eight years as superintendent of the E·ureka Springs schools and taught . English and Literature. Mrs. Barnett. and t,vo daughters, Mrs. Rose Barnett-Clark and Mrs. Margaret B~1rnett-,Clark, all served as teachers in various departments of our public schools. The son, To1n Barnett, took up engineering as his life's ,vork and has recently been promoted as chief engineer of the United ]fruit Company and for eleven years ·was stationed in Ilonduras, South A111erica, but ·was transferred to Boston ,vhere his sister, Mrs. Rose Barnett-Clark, no,v resides. She, too, spent several years in South America. l\Ir. Barnett has given the best of his life to the youths of Eureka Springs and Carroll. count.y, and is beloved by all his former prnpils for his kind and understanding heart. He will not only be reme1nbered as an educator, but as a guide and counsellor of his pupils, ,vho ,vill eve.1~ keep his memory green. ·Every year the 'Old Schoolmutes have a meeting and Prof. Barnett is always n1os:t, roya 1ly remembered by his fo111n~r pupils. John Jennings, poet, and quite a versatile writer, is generalissimo of this organization and 1Irs. l\'Iay Fuller is president PiDof. Barnett is always guest of honor. Owing to ill health he resigned as superintendent of our schools in 1928 and was succeeded by Prof. R. L. Smith who bids fair to equal Prof. Barnett in ability and faithfulness. lVlr. Bar nett has lived to see Eureka Springs high school develop from a class C to an A rating of pupils. . vV. 0. PERI{INiS-1891 Mr. W. 0. Perkins came to Eureka Springs in 1891 and began work as a carpenter and follo-wed the trade of carpen tering and contr:acting until twenty years ago when he began ito add paint and lumber to his shop which eventually branched 82 PIONEER TALES out until it is now one of the most profitable businesses in ,Eureka Springs, and is kuo,vn as the '1V. ·O. Perkins and Son Lu111ber Con1pany. He 1narried Miss 'Tressie MoGraff, an orphan girl ·who ,vas at that ti,me ·staying in the horne_· of :v,r. P. Fuller. Tihey n11nde their ho1ne in Eureka Spr,ings and reared a fa1nily of t:wo sons, Ralph and Clyde, ,vho ,ve-re edu cated in Eureka Springs and the younger son, Clyde, is no,v business manager of the hunber co1npany, ,vhile Ralph is a resident of California. COL. C. D. JAMES-18H2 C·ol. C. D. Jan1es can1e to Eureka /Springs in the year of 18D2 for M:r5. Ja111es' he·alth, bnt after a short tin1e reitnrned to their fon11er ho1ne only to find the spell that iEureka. Springs had cast. around thelln pulling tlhe1n back. They returned to Eureka Springs the following year and have lived here ever . since. T1heir fa1nily of three children ,Yere reared and educated in Eureka Springs. Col. Ja111es took an active part in the early days and was one of the leaders of the l\f.oha ,v ks ,v hich ,vas organized by Col. Betten. Co_l. Jan1es ,vas ci1ty att.orney for bvelve y'ears aHd ,van 1nany of the early scrip cases. In· lDOO :he organized Company D of the- First .l\.rkansas Infantny National Guards. He afteflward hecaane Lieutenant 1Colonel of tlhat regiment and served with thait con1pany fro1n 1916 until lVlarch 23, 1917, on the J\fexican border. He returned home but the follow·ing ,veek was called back again, and thnt regi1nent became the 153rd of lT. 8 ..A.rn1y. ·He served in !~ranee with this regin1ent for eleven n1onths. Seventy-five of these :boys ,vere from Carroll county, and some never returned but sleep in· Ifrance. Col Jaun~s ,vas honorably discharged lVIay 19, 1919. His regirnent ,Yas recom11nended as one of the best tr,ained in the United States nr1ny and at his discharge he "'"as given a beautiful Ho-ward watch by the officers of the 153rd Regiment, 39th Division, ,vhose names appear on the back. Col. J an1.,es carr1e frolm a line of military nren on his mothen's side, who had fought in all the ,vars in the -U. S. in their day, and Col. James has done service in the Spanish-American war, trouble with ~{exic-0 and the ,v orld "rar, having drilled over 8,000 soldie-rs before his departure for France. He is prominent in many Fraternal orders and is an ·active m€11nfber of the PIONEER TALES 83 Episcopal church; for 25 years he was Senior ,v arden and lay reader; also a 1ne1nberr1 of General Convention for United States. His father, Richard Ja111es, ,vas rector of this church for twelve years. Col. James has served two terms in the legislature and is no,v candidate for county and probate judge. SAM LE 1ATH-18D7 .rfhis story, or tef~timonial, ,vas given to n1e by ~Ir. San1 Leath, a Eureka ISrprings booster and one ,vho has done n1uch to pro mote the .springs Vhat have done so much for him and his loved ones. Camp Leath which is o-wned jointly by Mr. Leath and a l\fr. Barbee, is one of the finest first-cliass oa1n1ips to be found in the U. S. 1\.. If you visit Eureka Springs include it in your sight-,seeing for it is a camp of ·which ·we are justly proud. ''My n1other ,vas taken ,to all the well lrno,vn mineral springs and ,v1atering resouts of thirty-eig,ht states. She ·was on invalid, or nearly so, for seventeen years prior to coming here in May, 1897. Within three months, by use of baths and drinking the water, mother ·wais oon1pletely restored to normalcy \flnd enjoyed twenty-nine and a half yeaus of con1fort and. hap piness prior to her death in August, 1927, at the age of 79. · "After being away from this resort for several years, I re turned in the early part of 1923 with a fully developed case of rhern1uatism, hig1h blood pressure (212) and cataDrh of the 1head; in additi1on, severe colon trouble that had been diagnosed by several ein1inent specialists ,as of sarcoma nature, and with out any encouragement or pron1ise from any (physician that I had -any chance to outlive the cQlll11bination of troubles. My weight had been reduced to 133 pounds and I ,vas not able 1o eat any solids at all. Nei,ther could I sleep or be comfontable for even one hour. One local physician (bless his heart) told me that. !he, too, admitted that I had very little reason ·to expect relief, or ever to get ,vell, but he ,vould do ·what he could, though he did not -think n1edicine would ever relieve me. I-le advi,sed me to con :tinue a light diet, drink plenty of spring ,vater, take regular baths, keep quiet, be cheerful, hold on to life and tm1st to natural benefits from t'hese springs and sorne special treatments without n1edica,tion, and he ,vould stand by and help all he could. Suffice it to say that today I ,veigh 176 pounds (having 84 PIONEER 'l'ALES gained 38 pounds), have no rheumati1sm1, no 1after effects of high blood pressure, no colon trouble nor any catarrhal trouble. ~In fact, I feel like a t-wo-year-·old and can not recollect any of those forn1er expetiences that ·were const1ant.ly pulling 1ne do,vn to the grave. "Folks, I Iha ve uhnost confidence in 11nedic,al science, high regard for practiti,oners, and a111 ready to charnpion the.ir skill and usefulness, but I am also here to say that the Creative ,God has been instriunental in this creation of one of the best, if not the very best, healing fountain of the ,vorld. as 1nult,iplied thousands ,vill bear ,vitness. I have been ming ling and catering to tourists and visiting health resorts of the union practically all my life, and per:haps enjoy the speak ing acquaintance of far in excess ,of a t.nillion people, but I a111 not a,vare of any ·wateriing resort that is eqnal to or superior to ,this, our beloved Eurelra-"I have found it." HEiNRY N1\.GE·L-1900 Mr. I-Ienry Nagel car111e here in 1900 ,vhen he ·was told that he could not hope to live three months ]onger as he ,vas in the last stages of Ruight's disease. vVhen he can1e he ,vas told by physicians that it ,vonld he a good chance to see ,vhat the ,va1ter could do, for medicine would do nothing. ·He ·weighed 95 pounds ,vhen he came here and no,v 1weighs 160 pounds and is ,vell and sound. When he returned to his home in Io-wa his own people and doctors did not kno,v hi111 and could not believe that it ·was possible for a man to .gain ns 1he did in the fe"r 1nonths he was here. Mr. Nagel has been the ca use of many of his friends coining to E-ureka. Springs and there is no one more enthusiastic than he, fori in \his own ·words, "I know that I owe 11ny life to Eureka Springs and its ,vonder£ul water." PIONEER TALES 85 lfrs. Wilma Jarratt Ellis, daughter of Dr. A. L. Jarratt, a prominent physician and surgeon of Mississippi and Ten nessee was born in lfississippi and reared in Mississippi and Tennessee. She came from a family of writers on both sides, and composed verse before slhe knew all of her letters. She ,vas formerly a menilber of the Tennessee Press and Authors Club. She is now the wife of Dr. Ellis, pioneer of Eureka Springs. The poem, ",He.re Nature Pause·d," which was written expressly for Eureka 1Springs and so wptly describes our be loved city that Pioneer Tales would not be complete without. it. Here Nature paused, and there she wrought On canvas grand a wondrous t'hought; She piled the hi1ls to mountain height. !They rose 1na j estic in their might, And smiled from, their far reaching crest '0n vales belo,v in beauty drest. 1She placed her magic power to cure, And ·,vith a touch of perfect clime She left her praise to man and time. 86 PIONEER 'fALES H01G SCALD By John ,Jennings vV. l\f. Jasper Ne.,vberry, ln10,vn as "Uncle ,Ja.p," an ,; old Confederate soldier, born and reared in Ca.r,roll county, lived 1nany years a fc,v 1niles southeast of E·nreka Springs. Need ha111 Barfield, Frank Pickard and I used to go squirrel hunt ing ,vith hi1n and his boys, and 1nany were the interesting stories he told us of Civil ,v·ar days-one of ·which ,vas the follo,ving: About seven n1iles south of Eurieka Springs is ·a deep ro'cky hollow, knoivn to the old settlers as '\flog Scald,"' becnuse at J1og killing tin1e they ,vonld divert the sunnll streau1 £roan the deep impressions in the rocky strea111 bed and by heating and dropping rocks into sa1ne, scald the hogs to reinove the hair. This spot, because of· the col.d spring water and shade, ,vas the favoriite ca1nping place for both lTnion and Rebel soldiets. One 1norning Jap, ,vho ,vas a rebel scout, serving under Major Sam Peel, ·whom· the old-ti1ners ,vill rernmnber struck tlhe trail of so1ne 46 odd Yankee .Jaylunvkers and follo"ved H1e1n 1uitil they \vent into ca1np at. this spot. He tlhen :node to -the ca:rnp of his co111rades a fe,v n1iles distant on Ir!ing~ ,1'ii-ver and reported. ~The rebel altaclunent, ho-,vever, nu1nbered only 21 111en and they couldn't figure just ho,v they could ,vhip 40 odd Yanks in a faiu fight. Finally some genius spoke np nnd said, "Captain, I've got it!,You know ho,v then1 Jayha,vkers like ,rhiskey! vVcll, I propose that we ride over to old vVhiskey Johnson's, put a keg of his strongest -white n1ale in a ,vagon and 1make his deaf and dumb nigger drive it past the Yankee camp. They naturally ·will do the rest." This they proceeded to do, and J ap said ,vhen the negro and wagon approached the Yankee camp the Yanks grabbed him and started asking ihim questions. He couldn't talk RO they put him under arrest. 1\.hout that time the soldiers ,v1ho had started feeding the hay in the ,vagon to their horses let out a yell. They had found t1he keg of whiskey! They proceeded to get gloriously drunk, entirely unaware that t,vo rebels ,vere lying in the brush on top of the 1nountain, watching the111. About snndo,vn the ,vhiskey \had all of theun sound asleep; then the Rebels cra,v led in, got their guns, and next 1norning the .Jayha,vkers ,voke up pr-isoners without a PIONEER TALES 87 shot being fired. Jap said they were a very do,vn-hearted lot and when he -kidded them about being so easy to capture, ttheir captain replied, "It ,vasn't you, d- - - you, that captured us. It ,vas your blankety-blank rebel whiskey." NOTE- liog Scald, as written by l\'Ir. Jennings explains it above, was a con11nunity gathering spot. \Vhen ·weather be ·came cold enough to save meat the Harps, Vaughns, Drnttons ,and · Evans would take their dogs and guns and kill their hogs. ,vhich were wild and ran in the mountains. No one ever thought of feeding hogs to fatten tJhen1. They just tun1ed the1n loose in the hills ,vhere they lived on 1nass, and ,vhen hog killing time can1e they gathered there and killed and dressed as many as they ·needed for their winter n1eat. 13ERRYVILI,E Berryville is an older to,vn than Eureka Springs by ahnost thirty years. The to,vn sit-e ,vas 0~·1iginally entered by Joel Plumlee ·who later sold his fann to Blackburn Henderson Berryville, fro,1n1 ,vhom it derived its na1ne, ~nd ,vho put up ,the first store. In that sa,me year a [)r. Baker 1novecl there and . put np an apothecary shop and the tw·o of the1n had the land .sunveyed, and in 1850 laid out t1he to\vn. ' . A1t the beginning of the Civil '1Tar there ,vere fifty-one houses and a population of more than .200, but at the close of the "'ar there ,vas only one house left standing-that of Mrs. (Haily) I-Iubbard, commonly kno-wn as ''l\'1other Hubbard" to a.11 the early settlers. .A.fter the re1noval of the county seat frorrn Carr10llton to Berryville the place took on new life, and has continued to grow and is no,v one o-f the most beautiful to,vns in Carroll county ,~~ith its fine rolling farm fa.nd and ,beautiful modern homes. The first ne,vspaper published in Berryville was The Carroll County Farmer, which had its beginning and end in the yean of 1874. Dr. W. P. George was one of the pioneer doctors of Carroll county, and I doubt if any one doctor has ridden as many ·miles in the Ozark hills as he. He was greatly loved by the people. Jie ,vas the· first doctor I ever sa,v and t1he only one I knevv anything about until I was almost gro,vn. He was ow, old family physician. In looking up old time history I see the early business men 88 PIONEER TALES ·were Dr. ,W. ·p. George; J. H. Molloy, druggist; Freeman , and Bobo, 0. D. Thornton & Son, I(. J. Hodge, Shaver & Neff. The reason I have not written a more detailed account of this to,vn and its citizens is that a friend of mine ,vho lives in Berryville told rn1,e that she was going to ,v:uite an early history of thait, her native to,vn. and I lhave left the field clear for her, but I cannot pass up tihe opportunity to mention a fe,v of the pron1inent ,men and women ,vho played such an jm portant par-t in the early history of Carroll county. Judge .A.be Fanning, father of Albert Fanning, 8li. ( co1nmonly called "·Coon"), Gov. (lately deceased) and Mrs. Tom Gentry, all of ·whom ,vere born and lived their lives near Berryville, filled practically every office aYailahle in his day and ,vas judge for a nu~n!ber of years. Ile ,vas an1ong the very first settleif!s in this county, a fa,ct I never kne,v at (he beginning of my book. 'Dhe Bakers also 1noved near Berryville in an early day and have ,vjtnessed the growth and develop111ent of Carroll county. Tihose living no,v are John Baker of Eureka Spliings and Rufus Baker of Shady Grove. Rufus has reared a fa.rnily of educators, as practically all his children have taught school. Mrs. Alice Baker-Gentry ,vas a teacher of the a uthou of this book, and had a great deal of influence in fi1:ing her early nn1bi tion to write. l\frs. Gentry is a queen among ,va111en a.nu her influence will live long af1ter she is gone in the lives of her many pupils of the rural schools of Arkansas ,vho ,ve.re for tunate enough to be under her instruction. This entire family has proven a grea.t blessing to Carroll county. The Prices and Busseys were among the early settlers, Bussey having been 1the fir~t lmt1n in this county to erect a. frnme house ,vhich is where Gully Ilull lives now. The Hous tons settled near l(ings river and have also played a great part in the early day settlettnent. E·UREKA SPRINGS FIRES John Lamar ca1me here in the year of 1881. He has wit nessed four big fires which practically wiped Eureka Springs off the map. The first fire was on West Mountain and ·.originated ,vhere E. ~I. Bare's home now stands and burned seventy-five houses before it ,vas extinguished. '.Dhe next fire was in 1888. It originated in a dentist shop, just opposite the Blocksom-lNew·ton undertaking parlors, which at that time was known as the Hancock house, and was operated by Major Waddill. Mr. Billy Brown was rooming PIONEER :TALES . 89 there, and ,vas first to discover the fire, and at once gave the alar1n. The Hancock house ·was burned as ,vell as all the :buildings between it and the, Perry house, ,vhich was where the Basin Park !hotel now stands. The Ohio house, a. hotel of about thirty roo.ms, stood next to the Perry house with a -bridge behveen. The Ohio house bnrnecl hut the- Perry house ,vas safe for the ti,m:e being. l\tfr. Bro,vn says the fire occn:ured on one of it.he coldest nights he e,~er experienced in 1\.rkansas and that people ,vere ahnost frozen. Panden1~nium ,reigned and ithe pioneers looked on in helplessness ·as one by one their places. of business and all they possessed went up in s1noke. Imagine, if you can, a fire like t1hat with the only fighting apparait.ns available a bucket brigade. It took brave heartts 1to rebuild and begin all over . ag~1n. Mu. John Cook, father of Fred Cook, was one of the first to rebuild. fie scraitched a'Y-ay the hot e:mbers and laid the first foundation. Others followed sniit., as they could, but it was s01ne ti1ne before business ,vas resun1ed on Spring street. But as n1any disasters bring about success, this brought better buildings.. The Perry fhouse was a hoitel of sixty roon1s and was considered one of the most up-to-date and modern hotels of the tin1e. 10ne of i1ts most distinguished guests was a flour king, who, wi 1th his fa,mily ca.me here and stayed a year. It ,vas ,vhile Mr. Lanniar ,vas cooking for this hotel that it c,aught fire and burned everything in it. !This was the fire it.hat burned out Mr. Blocksom j nst opposite tlhe Basin spring. It swept on down and set fire to all the 'buildings on ~Iain street. Starting in ,vith the Gmand Central hotel, it burned everything clean to where Chandler's hardware is now, which at that time was kno-wn as rt.he Hughes house. Then in a few years another fire originated in t41e Hughes house -and burned everything to Mattocks' garage. · lfr. Lamiai:ti said that it looked as if Eureka .Springs was C()lll)~pletely done for, and it takes no great flight of im.agina tion to comprehend the terrible blow that ,vas fe}t from these fires. Taking into consideratton there ,vas no insurance, we wonder .-how the people rebuilt. 'I-Io,vever, the railroad and stages welfe •bringing in an influx of people and money seemed to flow freely. The oldest building in Eureka Springs is the old St. Charles . PIONE~~R TALES hotel, forn1erly kno-\vn as the Ponce-de-I"eon ,vhich ,vas the ho111e of Governor Po-well Clavton.,. . T:he Sonthern Jion1e is the second oldest. I-louses spriang np like n1ushroo1ns. Harn11ners and sa.,Ys ·were kept going day and night, bnt even at that they could not acc01111nodate the throngs that poured in. (:I_JC)S ING Fifty years have passed sin re Eureka Springs becan1e an incorporated town. Dt\rjng this period of tin1c the pioneer men and ,vo~nen ha.ye seen tnany changes take place. They have seen it e1nerge fro1n the tent and hut stages to thnt of a prosperons and first class city. 'fhe hills ·which ·were dotted only here and there by an occasional log hut, and \Vere full of ,vild g.a1n1e, are no,v taun1ed do,vn to pictnresqne 111onntain hon1es ,and fruitful vinyards, truck farn1s nnd orchards. ()nly n fe,v of the pioneers have lived to see Eureka Springs celebrate its jnbilee year. Since we began to intervie,v then1 six n1onths ngo, 111any have passed to the grea.t. Beyond. ,,re have found the1n to be 111en and 'Wo1nen of sterling character, qun int of n1anner and spee0h, yet, not by any n1eans ignorant. ·yv e have kno-wn 1nany of then~ w·ell and inti1na.tely. ,v e found in then1 a store f.nll of :uich 1ne11norics and 1l1eroic deeds-a great deal that is ,vorthy of i111itation and ,ve hope that ,vithin ;the next 50 years -their ;children shall have done their ,vork as ,ve111. l\iiany of .their boys and girls have ,Yon f~une and distinction and have taken their place in t'he ranks of "'Vho's ,vho." No greafer n1onnment could he dedicated to the pioneers than that which is engraved in the hearts of t1heir children, and ,vjll he perpetuated in the lives of the n1i'born. VVe have derived 1nuch pleasure in the collecting and pnb lishing of these tales. l\Iost of v:1e pioneers ha vc passed fro1n the scene of action, but "·e are enjoying the fruits of their labor. The Basin spring still :flo,Ys fron1 its JJnre 1nonntain source. Millions of people have dunnk fro111 its life-giving "·ater and still i1t. flo,vs on to bless the generations that shall con1e ·when ·we have follo,ved the Indinns, and the pioneers, to their last grea~ hunting ground. Perhaps in fifty ·years hence " 11hen 1nen and ,vomen shall fly over our hills and the anton1obile will be as far bnck date as the oxen tea,111 is today, our children can point to us "With as 1nuch pride as I no,v sign n1yself-A Daughter of a l)ioneer. tll 'fl-IE GOD UNIVERSAL This poen1 ·was ,vritten by one of Eureka Springs' 1nost. dis tinguished ,vc~1nen, ~Irs. Adelaide vVayland, dean of ,von1en of Crescent college, and portrays the senti1nent of our hills. Is God in everything and everywhcn~? In the gray clouds that hover near the earth; Or, ,vihen they break, in nll the azure blue; And ,vith the ~tars thnt in :the I-leavens have birth? Is I-Te beside the quiet, running sitrca1n, And in the depths of lily-padded pool? ,v as it l-Iis n1ind that planned the silent ,voo ,v as't lie ,vho pu1t the strength in seagulls' wings; And taught the squirrel~ ho,v' to rear their young? Is Ile the 1notive power of granite rock? Did Ile inspire the praise the 1norn stars sung? 'Til I can reproduce the violet's bloo111, Or clothe the lily ,vi th her glory fair; ·'Till I can ntake the grasses e,n1erald blade, I'll kno,v that God's in everytihing and every,vhere. THE B.A.:NI( R10BD.ERY September 27, 1022, Eureka Springs was ruffled out of her usual calm and con1placent demeanor by the beginning and end ing of the most dra:1natic bank robbery that ever occurred in history. In ten minutes after, five bank robbers had robbed 1the First National Bank, t,vo ,vere dead, three in the hospital one dying and two badly ,vounded. Thus ,vas the ending of the first bank robbery in Eurel{a Springs, and it ,vill likely be the last. For, in the words of Sant Lockhart, !head of a bandit gang at that :time, when he1 ,varned the I)rice brothers freon atte1n pting to r1ob banks in this city, "Lt can't be done." He further told them "I have be~n looking the land over ,vith the intention of robbing the banks, but o,ving to the topography of the place, a fa.ta! mis take will 1neet ,vith death." Ho,vever, Charley and George Price, notorious Oklahoma 92 PIONFJER TALES bank robbers; and ~hree of their gang, Co,van, Hendrickson and 1Vilson, \believing the1nselves sm .. rn1;ter than Lockhart, made !the attem1Jt ,vhich cost Prices their lives and that of vVilson, who they claimed joined then1 only the night before, ,vhile t1hey ,vere ca.roping near the standpipe, preparatory to robbing of the First National. On this twenty-seventJh day of Septen1ber, at 11 o'clock a. m., Cashier E. T. Smith, ~rellen Sa,vyer, 11rs. l\Jiaude Shu1nan, Miss Lon1a 1Saw·yer and 11iss Je,vcl Davidson received a. jolt :when three aruned men told them "hands up and fork over." They ·were ready to do both, and ,vere hustled, ,vith Robert Easley, John Easley, Luther ·vVilson and Sam Holland, custo n1ers of the bank ·who were ''a1nong those pre-sent," into the directors' f,oon1 and kept guard over by one of t1he bandits while the other t,vo proceeded to gather up the "dough" into a sack. ..A.t this time, in ·walked Bob Bo,vman, clerk of the Basin Park hotel, John I(. Butt and Clan de Arbuckle, not suspecting anything ,vas ,vrong. These ,the bandits lined np along the ,vall ,vith their hands uplifted. vVhen all tJhe n1oney was in the sack t.hey ordered l\fr. Smith and l\1r. Sa·wyer to accon1pany them to ,vhere they supposed there ,vonld be a ,vaiting car,. vVhile they ·,vere busy robbing the bank, Mr. Sn1ith, all unsuspecting ·was pressing with his foot, :t1he burglar alann. This surr)tnoned G. E. Burson, cashier ·of the Bank of Eu reka. Springs, to the scene of action, and seeing ~he car, -he suspecte.d it ,vas ,vaiting for the robbers, so opened fire on the tires. Then the fun started, with the lookout 1nan dashing madly do,vn :the street, only to have tlhe tires of his ca;n riddled with bullets. At the· Basin Circle it_ stopped and the bandit was shot through the foot by a shotgun in the hands of ,Jesse Littrell, ,vho was then owner of the confectionery now known as the Springers' confectionery. In crossing ithe street. ,vith l\,fr. Smith and ~Ir.· Sa.wyer in tow, shots frctm: pistols in the hands of Bob Bowman, Joe Mc I{imn1ey, Eririest Jordan, Ho1ner Brittian and Sa.m Ha.rmon, killed ,Vilson instantly; George Price died just as he ,vas taken into the hospi:t.al; Charley Price died a few days later, and Hendrickson and Cinvan were desperately ,vounded. At the next Febrnarv... term of court Hendrickson was sentenced to the penitentiary for three years and Cowan \Vas sent up forr ten years. J.lJONEER TALES 9;3 ======--======The whole gang, five desperate n1en, in ten minutes~ were put out of further corm1nission in cri'Ine by six of Eureka Springs' citizens, ·who ,vith the exception of Ernie ,Jordan, received not a scra:tcih. Ernie ricceived po,vder burns when a bandit's gun flashed in his face. Was Eureka Springs excited? She ,vent ·wild and so did reporters in large cities nll over the nation, ,vhen the nevvs ,vas flashed over the ,vires over the ,viping out of a notorious bank robber gang ,vho had iter.uorized, for years, cities and to,Nns of Oklaho1na and Missouri. Box car head lines across the pages of California, vVashington, and other state papers gave Eureka Springs great publicity and editorials co.1~menting on the re1narkable incident and the bravery of onr, boys, and pictures of .tlhe boys, appeared in all the leading papers of the large,r cities. vVilson's body was laid in the potter field here. None ever 1 made inquiries about hin1. , Perhaps sQ1ne loving n1other is ,vaiting ,vith the hopes her boy ,vill cot111e ho111e s01ne day. '"'As ye so-w, ye shall also ,reap." l-Io,v true. The guns whi0h ,vere used in ,this battle are uo,v in the private arsenal of Bnr,ton Saunders of Berryville, .A.. rk. 94 EuREirA SPRINGS As IT Is TODAY Eureka Springs As It Is Today Fifty-one yea.rs ago where Eureka Springs now _is located and the surrounding country was a wilderness with only an isolated log cabin here and there and a sa.wmi1H--today there is a t-0wn of approxin1ately 4000 average population, with modern homes, churches representing eight denominations, public schools rank ing among tihe most advanced in the state, about fiftty mercantile establishments and two banks . with over $700,000 resources, a municipal waterworks systeim and about sixteen miles of water and sffwer mains, five and a half miles of paved streets, a 1nunicipal owned auditorium and gymnasium costing to da;te $75,000, on ,vhich about· $10,000 additional will be expended to bring it to the desired condition, an electric light. plant having 600 average house connections and supplying the city with an all-night light service, telephone system with an aver age house and business phones· exceeding 400, .hotel r001m1 pihones connections excluded, all of the foregoing improvements repre sent an •Outlay of approximately one n1illion dollars. The re placement value of the hotels in Eureka Springs is not far from three-fourths of a million dollars. Th.en the cost of the several hundred homes, · improve1nents of springs, hewing lots ,and streets out of the mountain sides. All that is due to the renown gained by the ,varter of the springs as a curative medium nf human ailments. There is no ,more beautiful spot in the world th~n Eureka Springs as it is today, as it nestles down into its snug setting of greenery, and gives one the impression of the villa covered hills of- Switzerland, which has given r:ise to its name, "The Switzerland of America." It leaves a desire to return in the hearts of those ·who are fortunate to drink from its pure, spark ling waters and breathe in the pure ozone of its pine laden breezes,· and catc1h that elusive romance which pervade its quiet hills. lit seems as a myth ·when we look back over tihe short span of years that have elapsed since ·the first rough trails were blazed, and now as we glide over our paved streets we can hardly vision the 'toil and labor that has wrought this change and given us this comfort, therefore we must mention the men of ourr own day tha1t have completed the foundation which was laid by the pioneers. _ Senator F. 0. Butt Rerved nine years as its mayor and EuRERA SPRINGS As IT Is TonAY 05 ·with his loyal and progressive co-workers, J. '\V. Newport, J. vV. Jenkins, H. Goudelock, Elam Davis and R. B. l{elley, deserves the credit for our concrete sidewalks and also for pU'tting Eureka Springs on a cash basis for the first time in its history. When Mr. Butt took office scrip ·was worth only 10 cents on the dollar. While in office he re duced the ciity's indebtedness abou't $20,000. We will give a biographical sketch of his -life that was taken from the Green Forest Tribune, his boyhood home paper. He is now running for, lieutenant- F. O. BUTT governor and it calls to n-i.ind a prophecy made by a pioneer, lJncle Johnnie Gaskins, that "Some day a boy from Eureka Springs ,vould grace the presi dential dhair." ,vith the lion. Claude A. Fuller in Congress and F. 0. Butt, senator and candidate for lieutenant-governon, it looks as if they were headed thal way. Who can tel11 STORY OF ~IR. B{JTff One of the n1ost unique oharacters in Arkansas is F. 0. Butt, lawyer, scholar, financien and philanthropist, of Eureka Springs. From one of the roughest sticks of youthful timber has been lhewn a scholar a.nd legal light with few equals in our great commonwealth. It would require volumes to record · all of t,he interesting incidents connected with the career of Mr. Butt, public interest having centered about him in Carroll county and in the state, much ·of the time since 1894, when a bill was introduced in the General Assembly to remove his disability of minority, and permit him to be licensed to practice law before twenty-one years of age. Although a tireless workezi, imitating the !habits of the owl in the use of night hours in his studies, we have never been able to account for the fact that he has mastered an education ()'.·,0 EunEKA SPRINGS As IT Is TooAY of pro.portions that distinguish hit1n1 as a scholar, ,vithout having g-one through the regular route through college and university. Ile 1nust have absorbed it.. He ,vears a literary polish, and delves into scientific subjects in a ,vay that "Tould reflect credit upon a graduate of Princeton or Yale. Mr. Butt had barely reached his 111ajority ,vhen ihe ,vas chosen a 1nenllber of the State General Asse1nbly, and for four years he served ,vith extraordinary distinction as a 'II(en1ber of the Lower House, a considerable portion of his final year, as terr1- porary speaker of that body. Yielding to the De1nocratic cus tom of fou,u years' service, he voluntarily retired fro1n the office and entered in earnest upon his chosen profession, that of la,v; 8 and dnring 1this period he and the county vvere both honored by !his filling the office of County Exa:ininer and head of the school interests of the county, in ,vhich position he did n1;uch to,vard raising onr educational standards. Foll(nving the ex piration of his te1111 as our chief educational officer, ca1ne his no1nination and election to bvo successive te111rns in the State Senate in 1903 and 1905. Abandoning politics, except in so far as he could help his friends in their aspirations, ~Ir. Butt closely applied, his ti111e for the ensuing years to attention to his. la,v practice, but, called repeatedly and aln1ost continnonsly t1herefro1n by the public. to serve the.in as school director, chairiinan of the County Board of Education, n1mnber of the State Constitutional Con vention or rnayor of 111is city for repea-ted tenns. "\iV;hile absent from hon1e in a neighboring state, in attendance upon court, a large part of the citizenf:hip of his ho111e city insisted, ,vithout- his consent or know·ledge, in placing his na.ine ,as a candidt~te for !1ayor. I-Ie carried every ward in his city by overw·helm:ing odds against tihe most ,popular and able op ponent that could he na1ned, and this too in the face- of a positive state,n1ent that if elected he ,vould turn the municipality upside dolvn, and make such a mayor as they ,vould probably neverl want to see again in the city's history, and that he intended ~to see that they never elected him again. Ile did the turning over, too, and realized his prediction in all except gaining tJhe anticipated uni)opularity. Son1e he did gain, as does every man who seeks to better conditions, but it is certain he ,vonld have succeeded hi1nself had he not firmly refused to permit his name to be again considered. By his administration the mor,al atmosphere of the resort was purified ,vonderfully. He put EunEKA SPRINGS As IT Is rrODAY ()"" '· ' the city on a cash basis for the first time in its histo.ry and de1nonstrated thoroughly that saloons are . non-essentiials ll·S revenue producers, for there ,vere none in operation during his ad111inistration, and blind tigers went out of business as fast as they ,vent in. At n1idnight ,vith his chief of police alone, he raided the most popular clnb in the city, breaking do,vn the doors ,vith a fence post and carrying a,vay a huge quantity of booze that he believed ,vas being kept :for illegal sale. Four years later he ,vas again drafted for four additional years. In the l\1asonic and Odd Fello,vs orders !he holds high rank, and it is probable that he appreciates his standing there n1ore than he ,vould any political office in the state. ,vhatever criticism one might offer to the political history of :F'. 0. Butt, ,vhich has ahvays, by his o,vn sanction, been made an open book, his record as ,a lawyeli is the ad'lniration of every disciple of Blackstone tha,t kno,vs. it, and his private life is about as nearly faultless as is possible fior it hun1an I being to 1nake it. I1t has never been suggested by any Jiving mortal that he has ever fallen short in any task enjoined upon hi1n or been other than ''four square to every ,vind that blo,vs" in his relations ,vi-th his -fello,v man. The voluntarv tax that ti he imposes upon himself in suppo-ut of public improvements, the dhurch and of public charity, exceeds the a1nount exacted of him by la,v several hundred dollars annually. Being the ,vell balanced success that you ,vould naturally expect from such a ·well balanced n1an, Mr. Butt is a financier. He seldon1 makes a mistake in judgment or makes a bad invest ment, except perchance he gets "stung" on so1ne friends's note. He is one of the heaviest property orwners in Eureka Springs, being one of the stockho]der,s of the :First National Bank of that city and a director therein,. and also in the Peoples Bank of Berryville, and has o~iher financial connections of i1nportance .. It is due solelv to his ,vork that the First National Bank of I/ Green Forest is an institution of the present. .His keen fore- sight, outlined the future of our to,vn and he decided that there ,vas a profitable banking field. I-Ie has had no J',eason to change his opinion after years of the bank's operation. A busy lawyer ,vith · t,vo assist~nts, and all cro,vded for time, he has always been willingly ready ,Y1hen the public de manded, to give his o,vn time to whatever service it demanded, and the confidence reposed in him by his ow'n people has become alm·ost a by-iword. 98 E URFJKA SPRINGS As IT Is 1,oDAY I-ION~ CL~tUD·E A. FlJLI"'E,R ~1u. and ~1rs. vV. P. Fuller ca1ne to Eureka Springs in 188;'5 ,vhen Claude ,vas a s1nall boy and as he has told in n1any of ;his political ca11npaigns, he began his career as n bootblack. It is said that "coining events cast their shado,vs hefo1re" and in rea.ding an old Points in1agazine published in 1000, I read this about onr stntes1nan: ",Claude A. Fuller, another young la:,vyer, from the class of 1896, has lheld the office of city clerk for t,vo tern1s, and has recently been elected 1nie.n1ber of the Deinocra tic Centiual 1Co1n1nitlee of Carroll county. His ability with his ··well kno,vn ene.rgy rnake hilm; excellent m:aterial for the mak ing of a states111an." \This prophecy has been fulfilled_ and it is no-w "Congress1nan Fuller fro111 Eureka :springs." No 1nean title for a hoy that has worked his way fro1n the bottom and has fought his o,vn battles. Mr. Fuller was an attorney at l~nv for 1nany years and has held various offices in onr city. Ile served as 111ayor for yenrs. It ,vas under his n1ayorship that ouil·, new Auditoriu1n ,vas ccjnl,pleted last year at the cost of $75,000 and that our streets ,vere paved at nn added cost of $214,000. Eureka Springs has .never had a man n1ore loyal or zealous in its behalf than he, or that hnE; ,Yorked ,vi,th greater energy than- he and his nlde.r, inen, 1Villian1 I{appen, Sr., '0. F. Jasper and Joe: T. Mcl\iin11mey. Eureka Springs acco111_plished great nndertnkings during his years in office and the citizens are prond tha!t one of their boys is no,v helping to enact the la1,vs that govern oun nation. R.R. THOMPSON R. R. Thompson is o,vner of Lnke. I.Jncerne, a beautiful lake surrounded by rugged n1onntains, ,Yhich he has developed into picturesque ho1nes ,vhere influential and "·eaithy men and ,vomen come to rest and spend their slnnmers. The Lake Lucerne tract is composed of 105 acres and has plotted 390 lots of "~1hich about thirty acres have been sold. It is thoroughly n1oder,n and ,vould delight the eye of any artist. Mr. Thc.rnpson is the principUJl stockholder 1and •manager of the Eureka Springs 1Va:ter Co1npany, Inc., and ships water in carload lots to t,venty-fhTe ci1ties in the 'United States of Aln1erica. Last year he shipped 2,250,000 gallons of ,vater and this year it "rill exceed that. He has made the Ozarka wa'ter almost as fa'mous as the Basin \\1 ateir w-as in the past. In 1910 Crescent College ,vas sta:vted by lir. A. S. lfaddox, . ·EURERA SPRINGS As IT Is 'foDAY president, and Mr. 1Tho111pson, vice president, and carried on until. 1914 ·when Mr. l\!Iiaddox ,vithdre,v. lVIr. Tho1npson then carried on alone until 1923 ,v;hen his lease expired and the college was then suspended until 1929 ,vhen it ,vas opened again undeu ithe managen1ent of ~fr. A. Q. Bnrns. Mr. Tho1npson has done n1nch in advertising the pure ,vaters of Enreka Springs. CRESC~Ntr c·OLI"EGE 1030 Reorganized this year to better meet the needs of the modern .A.(merican young ,von1an's educational ambitions, Crescent col lege has a capacity for one hundred girls. Under the presi dency of Dr. L\... Q. Burns, the college has 1nade outstanding contributions to the educational life of the city a.1nong which may be n1entioned, the organization of the rhytl11n band a,mong 1the third and fourth grade pupils of the city schools, the direction of singing in the , city · schools by Crescent's Voice De1Jart1nent, the initiation of class piano, class violin, and class expression for children from. 0 to 14, the numerous ap pearances of vaulty and students in musical, literary and club n1eetings of the city .. A 1nodernized educational progra1n, liv ing condi:tions ·where every room has bath or bath connecting, ,vhere meals are served in courses, and a location in the mild and equable climate of the southern Ozarks, have attracted students from :38 states in the unien and bid fa iu 1to extend its clientele to a s'ti11l wider field. I-lA.R·OLD D. GRIFFJiN Dean of C,rescent College ( F11om the catalo1g) B. S. in Education, Tri-81tate Normal College, 1D19; A. B. Bethany College, 1920; Ph. D., University of Missouri, 1929. Professor of English, l\iidland College, 1919-20; Professor of Social Studies, ,villiam vVoods College, 1920-26; State Teachers College, Cape Girardeau, Mo., summer 1925; Professor of psychology and education, State Teachers College, Valley City, N. Dak., summers, 1927, 1028, 1029. Tau I{a ppa Alpha, Phi Delta Kappa. C. IIAR1RY 1\.LLIS Director Conserv·atory of .A.rt, Crescent College Na:tive of Ohio; University of l\Iichigan; Detroit Museum of 100 EunEKA SPRINGS As IT Is TonAY Fine Art; pupil of }Iarry Eaton of Ne,v York. Instructor Detroit Museurn of .A.rt; Bay Vie,v Acnden1y. International exhibitor, Paris, Munich, I,ondon, Ro111e, 1najor .A.J111erican cities. Represented in IIazelton Gallery, London; Mnsee des Bean Antx, ·Ne1nours; Gallery ~Iodern, l\1unich; University 0£ Ore gon, 1\ckevn1an Collection of California ; L. A. Cl nb Collec tion, l\finnea polis; rrhe I-Jelen Gould Collection, Lyndhurst, N. l.; Annual Exhibit, National Acade1ny of Design, Ne,v York City; Detroit Institute of Fine Arts per~nanent collection. Member, Federation of A1nerican Artists, A1nerican 1\..rtists Professional I.,eague, Tlhe Bohe~nian Club of I~ondon, the Afunich Society of Americari Painters, The Painters' Club of London, 1\,1ner,ica.n Art Association of Paris, Honorary 11101nber of Scarab Club· of Detroit, National .1\rts Club of Ne,v York City, Salan1agnndi Club of Ne,v York City, Lilne l{ock Art .A.ssociation of Connecticut, etc. Ten years residence in France. Leading painter of ()zarklnnd. G·RADY c·ox Director of l\1usic, Crescent College Graduate, Cincinnati Conservatory of Music; Student, 1\meni can Conservatory; Wichita College of l\lltisic. Pupil of I~\ Shailer Evans; Scion ti: ()tto Fischer. Pnpil of Gahlston and .Bertram in Berlin. Head of piano and theory, Fairmount College, 1915-17; faculty of Cincinnati Conservatory 0£ lVIusic, 1917-21; head of piano, Augustana. College, 1924-2G; ,1 ackson villt1 C,ollege of Music, 1926-28; director of music, Centrial College, 1928-29; European travel and a year's residence in Germany. Sinfonia fraternity; .A.rkai1sas State b-'Iusic Teachers' Association. .A. Q. BURNS President of Crescent College 1\.. B., ,villian1 ,J e,Yel College, 1915; B. D., Ne,vton 'fheo logical J nstitntion, 1916; Ph. D., Southern Baptist Tll1eological Seminary, 1917; candidate for Ph. D., University of Chicago under fello·wship appointinent, 1923-24; professor, of religious education, Hardin College, 1920-23; fello,v IJniversity of Chicago, 1023-24; educational staff Literary Digest in lo-\va 1025-28; university representa,tive, University of Chicago Press, 1928-20. Zeta Ohi; Pi I(appa Delta. fRESCENT COLLEGE FOR GIR-LS Eastern view ·of the m,ain building. Beautiful native gray atone, five stories, redolent with Arkansas history, beautifully a,ppointed, modern in every respect, on the crest of Crescent Mountain with vistas sweep ing 120 miles from the observation to,wer. EunEKA SPIUNGS As Irr Is TonAY 101 .A.lbert G. Ingalls, 1nayor. He has been called "the seer or 1the Ozarks." He ,vas born nt Pea Ridge, Ark., and spent the greater part of his early life in the Dakotas, 1noving to Eureka Springs in 1920. He is not at all eul/barrassed to tell that he was broke ,vhen he cam1e here and als.o heavily in debt. Today he owns 1nore property in Enreka Springs than any other man and has done mnch to increase its civic beauty. He bought many rnndo,vn buildings and tore them a,vay or n1ude them into inodern attractive hon1es. He o,vns the Crescent hotel ,vhich is . used as a preparatory college for girls nine 1nont1hs in the year. llc also o·wns the Ilasin Park hotel, one of it he finest in the state, the Palace bath house and Eureka Floral Shop. I-Ie has leased the Times-Echo and Flashlight. l\Ir. Ingalls succeeded Claude Fuller in 1D2!) and has prt0ven a very efficient 102 EUREKA SPRINGS As IT Is 'foDAY and progressive mayor and has given Eureka Spring~ an nn pelus ithat bids fair to rival t1hat of the early days, and as ,ve write the final chapter of our fiftieth year, Mayor Ingalls' name is ,vritten largely on the closing scroll, Since his induction to office there has been erected a mode,rin and up-to-date hospital, ln10,vn as the Don Sa·wyer hospital, nan1:ed in honor of Don Sirivyer, the young son, deceased, of ~Ir. and Mrs. Fred Sa,vyer, and grandson of Mrs. Sarah DeLano. An airport has been purchased and the building of a ne-\iv !high school has be,en planned. Lake Crescent has been leased and put in fine con dition as -a natato,.~iu1n. It is hoped that this native son will hold out as faithfully as he has begun and that the next fifty years shall ,vitness the gro,vth of his ,vork. "\Ve 11n~ght say that l\1r. Ingalls is a disciple of John Ruskin when it co1nes to loving beauty, and his ''sanitary, clean-up, paint-up'' adminis ,tration has added ne-w beanty and elegance to our city, and is an advertise111ent for any healt1h resor,t. Joe Mcl(immey and :Frank Jasper are his co-·workers. c1;r·Y O·FFICE·RS John Roberts, chief of police; 1\..mi Ho,verton, night ,vatch man; !T1an1 liarp, constable; Joe Davidson, justice of the '.peace; T. II. 1Vhi'te, justice of the peace; l\fns. 1Dott ·Huffi1nan, deputy circuit clerk; Jack vValker of Benryville is sheriff of Carroll county; John I(. Butt, deputy prosecuting attorney. CHiURCI-I1ES Baptist Church-Pastor, vVarren P. Clark. Methodist Chur,ch-Rev. -Norris Greer. Presbyterian Church-Miss Ida Mitchell, leader. ·Episco:pal Church-Rev. S. L. Rainey. Catholic C1hurch-Fiather A. Metz. First Christian Church-\Vithout pastor for the tin1e being. Mountain Street Christian Church-Rev. I. H. Bnr,gess. Pentecosta1i-Rev. Peppers. Christian Science Church-Reader, Mrs. 1--'aura E. Evans. BANI(S Senato~ F. 0. Bubt is president of the First National bank and E. T. Sn1ith, cashier. vV m. Kappen, Sr., (deceased) ,vas president of the Bank of Et1reka Springs. A successor has n-0t yet been named. 1V. G. Barker, who is the oldest banker from point of service, in Eureka Springs, is cashier. EuREKA SPRINGS A.s IT Is TooAY 103 vValker Bros.' dry goods store is one of the largest and 1nost · up-to-date stores in North,vest 1\.rkansas and is o,vned by three brotheus-F'loyd, Ernest and Digby. They are natives of Carroll cou11ty and were born on a :farm within a few miles of Eureka Siprings, ·where their father also ,vas born, and ,vhioh is kno,vn as the vValker settleunent, so naime-d in honor of their grandfather, John S. ,,r alkali, who ca-n1,e to Carroll county in the nineteenth century and settled on a :fav1n. There ,vere six boys-Jute, the :fa Vher of the \Valker brothers, was a ,Christian 1ninister; Tom vValker, ·who o,vns and operates a hard,vare stoa·e next door to the \Valker Bros.' store; D5tn, Bap tist preacher and father of Dal v,r a.Iker, a grocery 1nerchant on Main street; and .A.b, a farmer who lives on the old far.m. 1.''he ,¥alkers have been outstanding characters in the early deve.lopn1ent of Cariroll county and the younger generation de serve great credit in 1naking Eureka Springs lv-hat it is today. 'fhe entire block, consisting of ·the Grand Central, 1:lashburn grocery store, vValker's hard,vare and vValker Bros.' store, are· o,vned by them. Floyd began his career as a clerk in the Riley's dry goods store, later buying it and making of it ,vhat it is today. He married Mrs. Minnie Mairitin. Rogers Bargain House, Spring stree:t, is owned and operated by Mr. and Mrs. Leslie Rogers. Bonnie Lee Shop is o-wned by Mrs. Earl Ne,vport and under the managmnent of Mrs. Elsie Baker. 1{Ds. Ida ·Chandler o,Yns and operates a dry goods store on South 1{ain street. Morton's Correct Millinery, largest ready-to-,vear establish, ment in Eureka Springs, is operated by Mrs. H. }1"'. Morton. Raymond Hembree is the most recent addition to Eureka Springs' business men, and operates an up-to-date men's ready to-wear store. Payne's Novelty Shop is opera,ted by Mr. and Mrs. A. C. Payne. StettJing Chain Store, managed by F. B. Binghaim. College Shop is managed by Mr. and Mrs. R.. J. Newman. !H. R. Wright operates a shoe and furnishing store on spring street. 104 EuREI{A SPRINGS .A.s IT Is 'roDAY GR()CE·RY STORES Grant .A.sh o,vns and operates a grocery store at the 1noutih of l\fill hollow in one of the oldest business buildings in to,-rn. It has 1nany bullet holes in the ceiling that testify of the early saloon days in Eureka S1pring3 ,Yhen this building ,vas a saloon. Mr. Ash's fathen ,vas a111ong our early Pet'tlers. l oe Morris· operates a groce,ry, 111eat shop and feed st.ore in the l,a1mar buiilding on South Main street, and is one Irish)nllan that has n1ade a success in Eureka Springs. Mr. and Mrs. \V. D. ,,r caver operate a g.riocery and feed store on South Main street and have jnst opened an up-to-date filling stntion at the junction of 1\fain and Spring streets. Iloth are natives of Arkansas. l\frs. vVeaYer is the greait granddaughter of .Dr. Alvah ,Jackson, founder of Eureka Spr,ings. ·N. Bare operates a grocery store and 1neat market on Spring street and has been in business twenty-four years. Earl Ne,vport has a grocery Rtore a.nd 1neait market on Spring street. Jie ca,1ne t.o .Eureka Springs ,vhen a s·mall child and has been in business t,venty-eight years. Ed Rude H.A.RD\V .ARE ST10R,I~1S C. ,v. Blair operates a hardware store on Spring street and has been in business t,venty-eight years. To1n Harp operates a hard,vare store on Main stne~t and a garage on Spring street. I-le is a descendant fro1n 1the same family as the wrriter. Chandler's l-Iard,vare-Son:tih Main-is operated by C. N. Nay ,vho can1e here in 187D and cleuked in a store nwned by Rev. Setzer. This store ,vas t;hen located ,vhere the ice cremm factory no,v is. \Vhile excavating for this building his father ,vas blinded 'by a blast that accidentally ,vent off near hi~n. Mr. Nay n1arried Mrs. Lulu Chandler in 1890. L. 1E. Hollo'\vay is one of Eureka Springs' disci1ples, having co1ne here t,vo years ago to die, as his physicians told him they could do nothing for hi1111. But as nnany before him have done, instead of dying, lived and has gone into business. I-le has a furniture store on vVest ~fountain., DRlJG S'TORE1S II. T. Pendergrass canne here in 1885. lle owns the oldest drug store in to,vn. l-Iis son, Bela, is no,v 1nanager. iEureka Drug Con1pany is o,vned by A. L. Hess and managed by ihis son and wife, Mr. and Mrs. Loy I-less. McLaughlin ·nriug store is ow·ned by Thad McLaughlin. His brother, Ben, has assisted in the n1anagein1ent for a. nlnnber of years. Another brother, I-Io1ner, ,vas in the grocery business for a number of years. They cainre to Eureka Springs in 1881. Ben ·was an engineer on. the M. & 'N. A. Dr. J. S. Porch, pioneer druggist of Eur·eka SpDings, has been in the drug business over thirty years. BO·OIC STORES S. A. Diehl canle to Eureka Springs in 1900 and bought the Times-Echo and Flashlight a.nd published thetin for sixteen year,s; then sold to his son, \Vebster, ,vho a year ago leased the;m to Mayor Albert Ingalls. Mr. Diehl no,v o,vns and oper ates the Diehl Book Store on Spring street and is very promi nent in the affairs of Eureka Springs. Miss Florence Jordan is proprietor of a book store and newsstand on Spring street ,vhere she has been in business a number of years. Her brother, E ..A ... Jordan has a jewelry shop on Spring street, and has been in business fon nineteen years. 106 EURE KA SPRINGS As IT Is TonA Y 8'0U\TENIR SH,OP:S Charley Stelun came to Eureka Springs in 1~81 and earned money when a lad by slipping he-tween 1the line of men and woonen ·who ,vere waiting their turn for the Basin ·water, and filling pails for the i1m1patient ones, who paid lhi1n generously. {He· also blacked shoes, sold papers and did many more things that an industrious boy can do. I-le now o,vns. an attractive souvenir shop on Spring street. ChaTley loves to talk of the ,early days and recalls many interesting things. Louie vVebber is an ''old-ti1mer." Jie o,vns and operates a souvenir shq) on Main street -,vhere he has 1nany curious and beautiful things 1to attract the passersby. BA.RBER SIIOPS I-Ienry !Tallant operates a barber shop in the Messers1nith building on Main street. Eaton Cole operates a barber shop and Readmore library on Main street in the vValker building. Ross Grahaun and Henry iN agel-Elite barber shop, Spring street. 1\.l Feltz operates Basin barber shop on Spring street. W. ·T. ·Clajtik, barber shop, Spring street. S1H10E SHOPS ,v. H. ~1oody is a pioneer shoe cobbler of Eureka Springs and is located on Spring street. Mr. Moody has been in business it,venty-eight years. Albert Moody, son of ,v. H. ~'1oody, operates the Electric Shoe Shop, located on Spuing street Ji1m Black operates a shop on Spring street. "\V\II;OLES.AJ"E HOlJ.SES 'The Berryville vVholesale grocery company is managed by Ray Freeman. l\tfr. Irreen1an is a. native of Berryville. His father, J. W. Freen1an, played one of ithe 111ost important parts in ithe 'early history of Berryville and Carroll county. ,J. 0. Melone operates a ,vholesale grocery on Main street and has been .in business in 1Eureka Springs forty-six years. NEvVSP APERS The Daily Tin1es-ll~cho, owned by Webster Diehl, leased to Mayor Ingalls, is edited ·by Darsie Ellington. The Carroll Courier, owned by Sena'tor F. 0. Butt and sons, John and Robert, and George .,Viswell, is edited by ~frs. Annie I-louse, a pioneer newspaper woman. EuREI{A SPRINGS .A.. s IT Is TooAY · 107 P 1HYSICirtNS Dr. J. F. John is a native, having been born 1amd reared at Stuttgart, Ark. He has practiced 111edicine in Eureka Springs for nineteen years. He has a large practice and perhaps no doctor in the city ans·wers more calls ~han he. Dr. J. R. Parker is a snrgeon of much note and is ,vonderfully successful in opera.ting. I-le is the n1anager of the Don Sa,v yer Mennorial hospital. Dr.· .Pearl ,r1atman ca1ne to ·Eureka Springs when only a girl just out of school and beca~e physician and surgE:on £011 the Tunnel coi1npany of the 11. '-~ \N. 1\.. railroad. Her name ,vas then Hale. :She later m·arried Dr. Alber~t ·rwtman of this city, who ,vas also a practicing physician, but is now deceased. ,Dr. Pearl's na-me will ever be reme111bered to the citizens of Eu reka Springs to ,vhom she has ministered so unselfishly and long. Dr. Henry Pace was born and reared in Harrison, Ark., a.nd cwm,e to Eureka Springs t"wen1ty-five years ago and se:t up his office where he has remained· ever since. He is still in the same building ,vhere he had his fiust office. Dr. Pace is a native boy of whom we are justly proud and is widely knffwn for his skill as a physician and surgeon. Dr. ,J. H. vVebb ,vas here in the early days and when Claude Fuller was shining shoes on Spring street he ,va:s peddling vege'tables on ~'lain. IDr. fWebb's father ,vas a Cherokee Indian, and was with those driven by Capt. John c·arroll £mm Ten nessee to the Indian Nation H·OT,ELS, RE STAURA,N1'S .A.ND CAI~ES Palace hotel and bath house is 1nanaged by 0. R. Renfroe. S,veet Spring I-Iome, o-wned by M.r,s. Arch I(i1n11berling and is operated by l\ifrs. l ennie Pinkley-Southerland. George Hardy's "·Good Eats'' is one of the most up-to-date cafes in 1North,vest Arkansas. George has be_en in business eighteen years. I-le is a native .A.. rkansawye,r.. 'fhe U and I Cafe is o-wned and o.perated by 1frs. R. H. Fetty, pioneer of Eureka Sprjngs. The No Na1ne Cafe is n1anaged by ,Jack Shulitz, a young n1an £ri0111 10klaho111a. Stites' ,Jitney stand is o,vned by Bill Stites, pioneer, and n1anaged by the Nichols brothers. l\ifrs. :rvr. M. Barrett owns and operates the \Tourists Lunch stand near Cnunp Lea th. Pi11kley's Restaurant, l\fain street, is o-wned and operated by Mrs. John Pinkley and daug1hters, Pauline and Lillian. Davis Lunch Stand is o,vned and operated by Fred Davis, a native of Eureka ,Spinings. His mother is _also a native. Mrs. Davis o,vns the old St. Charles hotel, once the home of Gov. Po,vell Clayton, and the oldest building in ,Eureka Springs. ,Street Car Lunch S1tand is o,vned and operated by Mrs. Fred Eames. TJ1e Southern Home is o·wned and operated by vYallace McQnerry. 1The .L.\.llred hotel is o,vned and operated by '.Nir. and ~Irs. Louie Haneke, pioneeus and fni1nous ''story tellers" of Eureka Springs. Mrs. Arch I(i1n1'berling is m·anager of the Thach 1hotel on ,v e-st Mountain-one of the n1ost beautiful hotels in the city. Hotel ~fain is o,Yned and operated by 11rs. Lizzie Harris on North ~fain street. :Wlr. IIarris ,vas accidentally shot ,vhile squirrel ,hunting last fall. The La!ndaker is one place that has neve.n changed hands and is operated by Mrs. Eva Landaker-C,alkins, daugh'ter of Peter Landaker ,vho built ~he Landaker hotel and graded Ma in street for the first time. The family came to Eureka Springs in 1881. EUREKA SPRINGS .A.s I·r Is ToDAY 109 GARAGES Cook and Borider garag·e is one o:f the largest and 1nos.t popular garages of 1No11th,vest ·Arkansas and has a branch shop ait Rogers, Ark. John P. Cook, father of Fred, came to Eureka Springs in 1s·79 and ,vas one of the early business men. :B"'red is a native of Eureka 1Springs. Charles Dord(:)n, junior meunber of the firm, came to :Eureka Springs fro\1111 Texas. Cook and Border have been in 'business fourteen years. J. A. Blunk's repair and supply cornpany is one of the ,largest of its kind in North,vest Arkansas. ~r,. and Mrs. Blunk ca1ne to our city on the strength of our a•ttractive sign that gre~ts the tourist as he enters the gate,vay fron1 Seligman. 'llhey came out of curiosity and decided to stay because of the uniqueness and attractiveness of Eureka Springs and they are no,v l1TI1ore in love ,vith it than ,vhen they fiust ca1ne amd the ciity has no greater boosters than they. Dotson ·Motor Company, Inc., in Mattocks' Garage, South Ma in street. Hussey Garage, owned and operated by Mcl(inley IInssey, a native of El1reka Springs. City Garage is o,vned by Floyd Slane. CA~{P Gl{OUNDS ·Mrs. Ella 1Shnm.an-Monaga.n ca1ne here in 1900 and owned the ~rst steam laundry in Eureka Springs. She later married J. A. Monagan, a pionee,Ii of this city. They no,v ha.ve a tourist camp on their home ground near the standpipe; also much property in Eureka Springs. • Ray Freeman is owner of C•a1np Joy, near the standpipe. POSTAL FOilC:E Dr. Charles was a,p,pointed postmaster in 1924 and succeeded H. Goudelock. Robert Hudson, assigtant postmaster, began in the ~{ailing Division and served as cle.rk and carrier and beca1me assistant postJrnaster at the death o-f J. A. Bridgeford in 1919. He has been connected wi1th the postal force twenty-five years. Postal Clerks-George iNiohoa.lds, Norval Cunningham and Ed Taggart. City C1arriers- Harry v,rickhrum1, Floyd vVright and Miles Call. Rural Ca.ririers-Basal Cunningham and Russell ,J acksort. WaHer Burris is "general housekeeper" of the postoffice. 110 Eu1n~RA SPRINGS As IT Is TooAY G-roveu l{oark operates a bus line that connects ,vith practi ca1ly all ciities of interest in 1\rkansas and is know·n as the Roark Transportation Con1pany. l\'lr. and lVlrs. Roark ar~~ both natives of Carroll county. :01-odel Stem1n Laundry is o,vned and operated by the ~Iisses Ulah and Allie Pitts, popular business ,vo111en of Eureka Springs. .rfheir parents were a111ong ithe early arrivals of En reka Springs, and J.\IJiss lTlah still lives in the house in ·which 8he ,vas born, vd1ich is one of the oldest in the city. ~fiss 1\JJie olvns half interest in a partnership fann ,viith i1iss S,arah Sawyer. Crow's Tire service is o,rned and operated by I~rrel Cro,v, ,v:ho for a DnnJber of years owned and opeir,ated the Cr(nv Bakery. Errel is a native of Enrekn, Springs. Il. ,J. Rosewateiu is 1nannger of the Yeastole Con1pany, Inc. This product ,vas discovered by Dr. 11. J. .A.llen and has beco1ne so farnons that it is no,v shipped to several Enropean countries as ,vell as all over 1t he United States. Other products ,v1ll be 1na:nnfactnred by this con}{pany in the near fntnre. B. J. S1nith operates a jewelry and sonve11ir shop on Spring street and has been in bnsiness t,venty-fonr years. (flhe Ilnnkin ,Je"~elry ,Shop is operated by 8. A.. l{ankin. lvliss Zeh11a CleJ1n operates the Ozark l{ose l3eauty 1Shoppe on Spring street ' B. L. Rosser's St:udio is located on Spring street ,vhere he has been in the photography business for t,venty-five years. ·The Eureka. l1~loral ,Co1npany is o,vned by 1'\Jbert Ingalls and 1nanaged by Nlr. and ~Irs. Victor ~1cllee. Springer's confectioneriy is operated by l\lr. and ~lrs. Chas. Springer on Spring street. 1,he \Vestern lfniou Telegraph is operated by Jesse :O,fi1ler. V. I,. I-Indlow is 111auager of :t\~1e IIan1pton and Hndlo,v Fruit S-tand. Ilare & S,rett, insur,ance, abstracts and real estate co1npany was established in lDOS. Mr. I~are, senior nu~rnher of the firrn, has been a resident of Eureka Springs thirty-three years. Nir. S·wett came here in 1883 and his father ope.riated a. bakery in the early days. EUREKA SPRINGS A.s Ir Is TooAY 111 Perrv l\iark owns the Ilasin block which is one of the !1nost tJ up-to-date lJl~sincss centers in Eureka S1H·i11g~. I-Te is in the real estate and insurance business. }le 111arir:ied JVIiss Ina C,ochran, one of t!he 111ost popnlar yonng girls of Eureka Springs. }Ier father, ,John Cochran, was one of the early propei-ty holders. lVIr. and 1'frs. I-Ing hes, ,v ho o,Ynecl a n an1ong the pioneers who can11e to Eureka Springs in 1881. J olhn I(. Butt, the son of Senator and ~Irs. F. 0. Butt, is a prominent young lawyer and a candidate for representative. ,He was born in Carroll coun1ty :and educated in Eureka Springs and took up the profession of la,v "'vhen only a lad. }?red l\tlabt,ocks ca1ne here in the year of 1880 and has been in business since a youth. I-le owns the 1fattocks garage, and until a fe,v years ago owned and oper,ated the Mattocks black s1ni1th shop, which was owned by his father, Joe Maittocks, and is n~nv kno"rn as the Schnitzer blacksitnith shop. G.. V. Schnitzer is its owner and ,proprietor . .Silas I)avid, a pioneer -who came to Eureka Springs ·when there were it.en houses and forty,two tents, o-wns and operates a blaoks1nith shop on South Main street. :Prof. M. L. l\fcCall has taug1ht in our public schools for over thirty years and has stood shoulder to shoulder with _ProJ. Barnett Mr. ,McCaH is no,v assistant superintendent and is loved by all his pupils. Finis l\tlcCall, his brother, has also taught for a nu1nber of years and his wife, Mrs. Hattie McCall, stjll teaches in our school. 'Their father, George McCall, was -one of the pioneers of Carroll county and se:cved for, many yea.rs as Justice of the Peace. Mr. and Mrs. George 1Iu14t are t,vo more of Eureka Springs' •early citizens and :have an old scrap book in which they have kept all the happenings of the early yernrs, which is very in tere~ting reading to me. EUREKA SPRINGS As I·r Is ToDAY 118 'rIIE AU\TIIOR'S PREA.OHMENT In this book I have tried to tell some of the incidents •andl adventures that have mlade the history of our hills. No state in Vhe union has been n1ore grossly n1isrepresented than Ar kansas and no people so ridiculed. Bnt in the face of all these 1odds, 1\.rkansas has made a sure and steady growth, and soon !the novelist's pen ·will have to seek another subject for its clo,vn. 1\.ny cl~ar thinking man or wo1nan needs only to read an Arkansas history to find that our little state is indeed a ,vonder state and the tread of millions follo,v yearly the trails that ,vere blazed by the pioneers and the Indians. The Ozarks are becon1ing popnla;r ·with the artists and ,vriters and soon, only too soon, I fear, it.he people of the hills ·will ·begin to :put on the airs of sophistication that ,vas un known to the pioneers. I appeal to the people of my beloved state to keep their ff\Yll ·personality. T'here has never been and never ,vill be a tm;ore hospitable, lovable· people,· than the pioneers of Arkan sas, and let's preserve that distinction and cling to their ideals which are ·worthy of imitation. 1,hey. had a faith in God. ·That 1nay appear as superstition to the outside world, ·-yet, as I have looked closely into the lives of the pioneers, I think God must have been very near un{to them and I know they had a "peace and contentinent" that the ·world is hungry for today. I think we are living in a ,vonderful age, bnt in peering into the fnit.nre I see a ·warning hand that is pointing to the home life of our great nation. The statistics of Arkansas ~ho,v that one out of every seven 1narriages end in the divorce courts. 1"'his should be enough to arouse our people to their danger. 1No nation can he _greater than its horn.es, and what kind of children can ,ve hope to turn from the homes where every sacred tie is broken and little children are thrust. upon step-fathers and step-mothers who do not want the1m 1 ~Vhat kind of ideals can he fostered and perpetuated in children fron1 such homes~ There is no grea:ter tragedy in the world today than the divorce evil. Nlarriage and home no longer have any meaning of sacredness. on permanency. Nfay Arkan sas, and our great America, a,vake to its dangers before it is ftoo late. ~lay mothers take time to teach their boys and1 g-irls the art of home-making and the sanctity of marriage. ,v on1en have no higher calling than hoone..1making and tuaining boys and EunEKA SrnINGS As IT Is TooA Y girls to be efficient and upright citizens. ·No ,vo1nan can serve her nation in a more exalted ,vay than giving that nation a man or ,vmnan ,vith high ideals and standards to lead its peop'le. ·The divorce evil is likened unto an apple tree that has · a deadly borer in its heart and is gradually but surely eating its ,vay into its vitals. The ,vorld has been horrified and shocked for tJhe past fe,v years at the cri1ne ,vave that has swept A1nerica. There has been much speculation on the paint of the great thinkers and · ,vriters and they have found it has been caused by the great 1 111oral upheaval broug,h t. on by many contribut1ing causes, largely due to the reaction of the ,var and the breaking up of the ho1nes ,of A1nerica. ,v 01nen have, in their new found freedom, thro,vn their hats in the ring and said, ''"\Vhat's sauce for the goose is sance £01~ the gander, "and the homes have suffered t!he conseqn ences. _ 'I'his may not n1eet w1ith the approval of my o,vn sex, but i·t is the truth. Ont of it all n1ay oon1~ peI11nianent good for the f1iture race, but it has had a drastic effect along ,vith other contributing causes. I ,vould not like to see ,v01111en go hack Ito servitude ·or bondage, and it has been proven that their intelligence is as great as 1nan's, yet, ,voi1nen are prima,rily ho111e-make.vs and on t·hem forever will evolve the training of onr future citizenry. l'he niothers and fathers of our great land today hold it largely in their hands to say ,vhat that future ,vill be. ·One appalling thing that stands out so tragically to me is that so n1any of our criminals are mere youths, and if I ,vere to suggest a panacea, it would be, "Back to the Bible and belief in God, and to the ,vholeson1e and inspiring books that kindle fires in 1the 1hearts of youth and fire 'their an1bitions to do s0111ething ,vorth ,vhile and not the sensual obscene litera ture 'that 1m,any homes are clnt1tered with today. "\Va.men have things 111ade too easy for them. 'fhe Devil finds ,York for idle hands. Back in the "baby-tending, biscuit n1aking days~'. the ,vornen did not have tin1e to jn1np in their cars, s'tep on ~he gas, and hunt up thrills. That, too, often ends in the divorce court. I am not a reforrner nor an extriemist, but it is time ,Ye ,verc 1beginning to take an inventory and look things sqnare in the face. Old standards are being discarded and ne,v ones are being for1ned. But is there not much in the old that ,vould he ·worth ·while 'to perpetuate in the ne,v? After all, there's EuREKA SPRINGS As IT Is TonAY lLl nothing new·. ,v e pride ouDselves on being n1odern, only to see in a short while that the old rway ,vas best. As I stood recently at the grave of a pioneer and sa ,v hint la id a,vay, l!hese deep and profound thoughts ca111e 1to n1e as I gazed on the hills lit up by the spring sunshine: ":0, ever .. lasting hills, another one hath lain down to sleep in thy bosanll and shall tread thy paths no n1ore, but 'thou still standcth serene and penceful in thy caln1, and then the ages shall still rennain. Tlhou hast ,vitnessed the passing of the ages and the races of n1en, and others shall co1ne to 1narvel a1t thy beauty and grandeuD and drink fro1n thy n1ountain stre~uns long after 1nine eyes have ceased to look upon thee and my sub stance shall have gone to feed the lofty pine trees that to,ver into the sky and stand guard o'er those who sleep beneath its shadows." I felt an a,ve as these 1nighty thong,hts ~,:vept over n1e. Poor, pitiful man that pits his strength against the Ornnipotent and defies 1the fact that n1an ii li1nited and mius.t plny his part.,' then pass on ,vhile God's great plan goes on forever. In 1the passing of the pioneers, and they are passing £.ast, many of theun having passed away since I began n1y book last lnly, I see •much passing that was fine and ,vorthy of i1nitation. I se·e a class of people that had an ideal and principle and thatl ,vere "rilling to die fighting for rthat ideal ralher than to yield to that ·which they considered ,vrong. I ,vonld not (l'ave the people of our hills forget the ·part they played nnd I pledge 1nyse1lf to the fe,v ,vho are ieft that ,vill read this book that I will, as far as in 1my po,ver, keep their n1emory g-ueen and inculcate 'their high ideals and faith in the generations -yet to come to our ihills. vVe have a little band of. 1writers known as the Ozarkians, ,vho are trying to preserve the ideals and "faith of the hills," and our slogan is ''v,r e are fighting for 1things eternal."' ,v e are trying to tell the tnuth about our state and people and to give the ,vo11ld pure and ,vholesome literature thait ,vill make 1nen and women better for having read it. P'ioneer Tales has been ,v,riitten under per,;erse conditions and a great deal of it has been ,vritten ,vi'th a t,vo-year-old boy on one arm of ,my chair, ,vhile I ·write, or tvied to ,vrite, 01lJ the other .. It has the dis'tinction of having been ,vritten by a nativ_e and puh'li~~ed by natives. Tihe !oung man who operafs the hnotyipe maci.11ne, ,J e3se Calla',vay, 1s a grea 1t-great-grandson. 116 EunEKA Srn1Nos As IT Is TonAY of _Dr. Alvah Jackson, -discoverer of ~he Basin spring. The printer, George Wis,vell, is a n1an ·who t\Vas trained by Jesse Russell, pioneer, ne,vspaper-man of Carroll county. I hope that the readers of this book ·will love my pioneers as I love the1n and that the man or woman who ,vrites the history of Eureka Springs in 'the next fifty years will not for get them, and that our children shall knovv sctmething of w'hat the settling of these hills 1neant. Only a fe,v arc ,vith us novv, but I an1 glad that I have been pennitted to tell 'their stovie-s. I a1n glad that my p!ioneer blood still calls m.e to 'the t\voods and strea:n1JS ,vhere I can lie close 'to the throbbjng heart of MotJher 1N a1ture's breast, and drink deep of the joy and ,visdon1 of the hi] ls, and return refreshed and strengthened to cope with the affairs of life. May we take time in the busy rush of life to enjoy the blessing ,vhich God has so lavishly ·besto,ved upon us. Let us establish schools of lea111ing in our Ozark hills tJha t will teach the_ ethics of right living and thinking that ,vill fit onr boys and girls for the great battles of life and to enjoy life to its full. May "ye 1narch onward in the pursuit of kno,v ledge and hap piness to the higher, holier things of life, and in tJhe quiet and peace of- our hills drink deep f.rom the fountains of truth and righteousness ,vhich the ,vorld today has almoSlt forgotten and may God preserve us in our silrnple "faith of the hills," and may we attune ourselves to the plans of llis infinite creation tha1t ,we 1nay receive tlhe full · hlessings that ,vere primari'ly accorded to man. Men and w·omen are bartering their rights of happiness today for a mess of pottage· ,vhich they call ,pleasure, as they rush! pell mell from one thing to an