COME TO DECISION THE CAL MARKET MAKERS IS BACK A LOOK AT THE KEY PIRELLI ENLISTS TRENDS FROM THE 12 TRADE CIRCUIT AT NEW TAPS FOUR NEW MODELS FOR ITS YORK MARKET WEEK. BOARD MEMBERS. LATEST CALENDAR. PAGES MW4 TO MW7 PAGE 3 PAGE 7

RETAIL WOES NRF Trims Forecast After Soft First Half

By DAVID MOIN

IN ANOTHER SIGN that retailing has been diffi cult, the National Retail Federation has cut its retail sales forecast for 2014, citing slow growth in the fi rst half of the year. NRF said Wednesday that retail sales will grow 3.6 THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY percent in 2014 to $3.2 trillion. The original forecast WWD in January called for 4.1 percent growth. Internet sales are seen at 9 to 12 percent ahead this year, rep- resenting 5 to 6 percent of total retail sales in the U.S. “No retailer was immune to the doldrums wit- nessed during the fi rst quarter, and as a result, the year’s growth trajectory was impacted,” said NRF president and chief executive offi cer Matthew Shay. It’s been widely recognized that consumers have little motivation to shop due to several factors — a sense of diminished disposable income and that the economy remains sluggish, infl ation, the lack of prod- Manon’s uct innovation or hot items in fashion and technology, and the crises in the Middle East and the Ukraine. Business on the Internet, which continues to gener- ate healthy gains, doesn’t offset the business retailers lose from Web sites siphoning traffi c from the malls. Next Move In response to the prolonged malaise, retailers all After racking up 50-plus runway shows this year have been discounting like it’s Christmas every day, and the price promotions are expected to take a big year alone, French model Manon Leloup can bite out of second-quarter profi ts and step up already now add fi lm director to her CV. She and Niels increased pressure on vendors for markdown money Benoist recently shot “Speaking Dolls,” a and chargebacks. Many retailers staged price promo- tions at 50 to 60 percent off around the Fourth of July, documentary that chronicles the four-city, whereas last year, it was more like 30 to 40 percent off. spring 2014 fashion month. Here, Leloup Some retailers have even blamed the weak results in the second quarter on the World Cup, with people wears a look from the recent resort staying home or hitting the sports bars to the season: Thierry Colson’s cotton games. “The problem is much more serious. People with mother-of-pearl embroidery, paired don’t have discretionary spending power and are being very restrictive in what they are buying,” said with a Dauphin cuff and Converse retail analyst Walter Loeb. . For an interview with Leloup, SEE PAGE 6 see pages 4 and 5. Facebook Shopping’s Uncertain Viability

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

BETTER FOR browsing than buying? While Facebook continues to solidify its place as an advertising giant — second-quarter ad revenues shot up 67 percent to $2.68 billion — the social net- work is still seen as more of a place to bolster a brand’s profi le than sell its products. Still, Facebook’s tiptoeing back into the world of e-commerce with its very small, although highly pub- licized test of a “buy” button that began last week. Experts are skeptical that the network’s 829 million daily active users will come to view Facebook as a shopping destination. In part, that’s because Facebook has tried its hand at commerce before. Selling on Facebook, or F-commerce, was one of the most buzzed-about digital ideas in 2011. But the effort was ultimately seen as a fl op after brands failed to gain much commercial traction from the social platform. Now, Facebook is betting on a “buy” button on ads and page posts that lets users purchase a prod- uct without leaving the social network. The button is being tested on a few small- and medium-size U.S. businesses. Facebook declined to give specifi cs on the program, but a larger rollout is expected later this year. On Wednesday, Sheryl Sandberg, Facebook’s chief operating offi cer, stressed to analysts on a confer- ence call that the company was trying to facilitate the buying process for its users. PHOTO BY FRANCK MURA; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER HAIR BY VINCENT DI MORO AT AGENCE AURELIEN PARIS; MAKEUP BY ENY WHITEHEAD AT CALLISTE AGENCY PARIS ENY WHITEHEAD AT MAKEUP BY PARIS; AGENCE AURELIEN VINCENT DI MORO AT HAIR BY SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 WWD.COM Donna Karan N.Y. Flagship to Close THE BRIEFING BOX The building has nearly 30 feet of glass front- By LISA LOCKWOOD age and double-height ceilings on the ground floor, IN TODAY’S WWD along with a mezzanine and outdoor garden. DONNA KARAN’S three-story Manhattan flagship at Karan’s boutique features the women’s Collection, 819 Madison Avenue (between 68th and 69th Streets) accessories and home. The designer continues to have will close when the lease expires Aug. 31. Collection stores in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Jodi Picoult posing The 11,000-square-foot boutique, which opened Calif.; Americana Manhasset on Long Island; The Shops for Talbots’ October in August 2001, features a Zen-like setting. It show- at Crystals in Las Vegas; London; Dubai; Kuwait City; catalogue. For more, cases a private garden with 50-foot stone walls, an Riyadh, Saudi Arabia; Singapore; Shanghai, and Seoul. see WWD.com. imported bamboo forest and a black granite “river” “After careful consideration, the company has de- of water that cut through the space from the inside. cided not to renew our Donna Karan Collection store The windows flood each floor with natural light, lease at 819 Madison Avenue, which expires Aug. 31. and almost every space has a view of the garden At this time, we are exploring other opportunities below. The shop was appointed with a dramatic for a space more reflective of the spirit of our brand staircase, tall mirrors and flat screens. today,” said a Donna Karan spokeswoman.

Macy’s Weighs Appeal Over NLRB Ruling

“The decision redefined what the NLRB consid- RODIN BANICA By KRISTI ELLIS ered a proper bargaining unit, abandoning the past, business-wide standard in favor of one that allows PHOTO BY

WASHINGTON — Macy’s Inc. said Wednesday it is union organizers to gerrymander a workplace by “disappointed” by a National Labor Relations Board cherry-picking small groups of employees within decision that will allow a union to move forward with a larger workforce to form a bargaining unit,” the The National Retail Federation an organizing election involving employees in a cos- Retail Industry Leaders Association said. has cut its retail sales metics and fragrance department at one of its stores. “Micro unions are incompatible with the opera- forecast for 2014, citing slow growth in the first half. PAGE 1 The NLRB decision has put retailers on edge tional structure of the retail industry and the needs and raised concerns that the ruling could pave the of American consumers,”’’ said Kelly Kolb, vice presi- Facebook commerce might be getting a second lease on life way for separate union bargaining units within dent of government affairs at RILA. “The conflict and with the introduction last week of the “buy” button. PAGE 1 stores, potentially fragmenting their business and complexity brought to workplaces by micro unions hurting their ability to serve customers. jeopardizes the flexibility and opportunity that make Condé Nast revealed its new executive structure Wednesday, “Macy’s is disappointed with the NLRB ruling retail jobs attractive to millions of Americans, while and the departures of Tom Wallace and John Bellando. PAGE 3 and believes that organizing a selected portion of eroding the high level of customer service consumers a store’s selling associates into multiple collective have come to expect from retailers.” The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh is bargaining units is impractical and an impediment The National Retail Federation argued in an projecting a budget shortfall by the end of the year. PAGE 3 to providing a consistent level of customer service,” amicus brief it filed in the case that a decision by a Macy’s spokesman said in an e-mail. “Our compa- the NLRB to allow bargaining units within stores Manon Leloup discusses her new documentary on the realities ny is considering its options, including a potential “would do nothing more than serve to fracture and of being a model, “Speaking Dolls.” PAGE 4 appeal of the NLRB decision.” balkanize the structure of the retail employer’s Bergdorf Goodman has a similar appeal before the business, and will adversely affect NRF’s members “Fashion Rocks,” the fashion and music TV special that last NLRB in a case where one of the board’s regional di- and their businesses, complicate labor relations PAGE 7 rectors reportedly issued a decision determining that and collective bargaining, completely frustrate aired in 2008, is returning in September. its flagship’s second-floor designer department The famed and fifth-floor contemporary shoes department would Pirelli Calendar will feature photos of PAGE 7 represent an appropriate bargaining unit. The NLRB Micro unions are 12 of the world’s top high-fashion models. has not made a final decision in that case. In the Macy’s case, the NLRB issued a deci- incompatible with the Britney Spears is launching of line of sleepwear apparel called sion Tuesday in favor of the United Food and The Intimate Britney Spears. PAGE 7 Commercial Workers International Union, which operational structure of the filed a petition with the board in March 2011, seek- Independent merchants were in an upbeat mood at the New ing to hold an election in an attempt to organize a York trade shows, trolling for key items for spring. PAGE MW1 bargaining unit within the cosmetics and fragrance retail industry. department of a Macy’s store in Saugus, Mass. New York Jet Eric Decker is the second athlete to participate The UFCW is seeking to represent 41 full-time, — KELLY KOLB, RILA in Buffalo David Bitton’s Buffalo Pro program. PAGE MW2 part-time and on-call employees employed at the Saugus store’s cosmetics and fragrance depart- and destroy the basic concepts of customer service, Profiles of some of the brands that were highlights at the ment, including counter managers, beauty advisers threaten to embroil customers and other members recent trade shows in New York. PAGE MW4 and all selling employees in cosmetics and women’s of the public in labor disputes, and create delay and men’s fragrances, according to the petition. and increased costs in the board’s currently fair Paris-based brand Louis Leeman will be setting up and efficient representation process.” In its decision, the NLRB ruled that “the employ- shop in New York in December. PAGE MW8 ees in the [UFCW’s] petitioned-for unit are a readily David French, senior vice president of government identifiable group who share a community of inter- relations at the NRF, said: “Macy’s has a lot of differ- ests,” thereby allowing the UFCW to hold an election. ent departments and a lot of different folks with dif- ON WWD.COM The NLRB also argued that Macy’s did not meet ferent jobs within its stores. If folks in different jobs its “burden of demonstrating that the other selling are organized by different unions, at some point that EYE: Jodi Picoult, the 48-year-old best-selling author, talks and non-selling employees it seeks to include [in is going to impact the operations of the store in a way about her new fashion alliance with Talbots, the advantage any election] share an overwhelming community of that the NLRB is not supposed [to allow].” of multimedia platforms and the ever-trembling publishing interest with the petitioned-for employees so as to “What happens when the department goes landscape. For more, see WWD.com. require their inclusion in the unit.” on strike? Do other departments walk’’ out?” French Retailers have grown increasingly concerned by asked rhetorically. “This is the kind of arbitrary unit the NLRB’s recent decisions, stemming from a case construction that hasn’t happened in the real world.” FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA known as Specialty Healthcare and Rehabilitation Retail groups are also trying to fight the NLRB’s Center in 2011, in which the board decided to allow new decisions on Capitol Hill, although a bill aimed @ WWD.com/social a union to seek to organize a group of nursing as- at overturning the Specialty Healthcare decision sistants within the center. stalled last year. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 17. THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and BFC, eBay Set Contemporary Initiative two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, as the BFC’s NewGen program operates. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, By LORELEI MARFIL BFC Contemporary will see members of the NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West BFC and eBay’s head of fashion brands Melanie Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, LONDON — The British Fashion Council and eBay Smallwood looking at designers’ collection plans, Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. have teamed to create BFC Contemporary, an ini- business plans, pricing and online and off-line Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address tiative aimed at helping fashion designers in the presence. The BFC plans to invite industry ex- changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. contemporary segment of the market with mentor- perts to meet with each designer as part of the If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with ship, strategy and commercial opportunities. mentoring scheme. your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mentoring sessions will be provided for To coincide with the launch, each designer will mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request each designer from key industry people, the part- create a limited-edition piece to be sold at the BFC to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse ners said. Contemporary shop on eBay.co.uk in September. permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. The first labels to take part in the program in- “Each of the inaugural BFC Contemporary de- Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we clude Alexis Barrell, Georgia Hardinge, Paper signers possess incredible creativity and strong believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR London, Prism and Zoë Jordan. While the initial brand concepts,” said Caroline Rush, chief execu- DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED designers for the launch were invited to apply by tive officer of the BFC. “These designers mark a TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, the BFC and eBay, applications for the 2015 install- new wave in British contemporary design, the rise UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ment will be open to all designers in the same way of which we aim to fuel with this new initiative.” OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 3 WWD.COM

in funding, provide for a reconstituted board and give Charney the temporary American Apparel Adds Four to Board title of strategic consultant. Standard General has since acquired qualify as independent directors under stituted and have its first meeting. the obligations of the $10 million loan By VICKI M. YOUNG the rules of the NYSE MKT LLC. Sullivan Cochairmen Allan Mayer and David owed to Lion Capital, which had threat- and Kim are board members of Media Danziger will remain as independent ened American Apparel’s liquidity since AMERICAN APPAREL INC. has its new General. Magnacca is ceo of Radio Shack directors and continue in their roles as a default also would have triggered vio- board members in place, and that means Corp., a company in which Standard cochairmen. lations of covenants in agreements with Dov Charney’s future could be decided soon. General is the beneficial owner of 9.8 Charney, who has irrevocably re- the retailer’s other lenders. Wednesday’s The four new designees, with different percent of the firm’s outstanding common signed from the board, will not serve as Form SC 14F1 filing indicated that Lion terms expiring in connection with annual stock. Whether Glazek qualifies as an in- a board member and cannot be nominat- Capital holds warrants exercisable to shareholders meetings, are: David Glazek dependent director under the NYSE MKT ed by the company or the hedge fund as purchase a total of 24.5 million shares as a class A director whose term expires rules has not yet been determined. a board member. of American Apparel common stock. in 2017; Thomas J. Sullivan as a class B di- Brown is a director of outsource re- Once the board begins meeting, it The filing also disclosed that American rector, with his term expiring in 2015, and cruiting firm TrueBlue Inc., and before can also form a new special commit- Apparel and Standard General are in Colleen B. Brown and Joseph Magnacca joining TrueBlue was president and ceo tee, or Suitability Committee per the discussions to extend the maturity of as class C directors, with their terms end- of Fischer Communications. Sullivan is a hedge fund’s standstill agreement with the loan through Oct. 4, 2021, reduce the ing in 2016. New York-based hedge fund managing partner at Smallwood Partners, American Apparel, to continue the inves- annual interest rate to 17 percent, and Standard General has the ability to desig- a financial advisory services firm. He pre- tigation into alleged misconduct by found- waive any default that may have resulted nate a fifth member but has not done so yet. viously was a managing director at pri- er Charney. The members of the com- from Charney not being ceo, as well as Glazek and Sullivan are Standard vate equity firm Investcorp International. mittee include Danziger, one Standard eliminate that provision as an event of General designees, while Brown and Of the new board member designees, General designee and one of the joint des- default in the future. Magnacca each are mutually agreed upon Magnacca has past retail experience in ignees. It will be this committee that will Under the terms of the “Standstill by the hedge fund and American Apparel. marketing and merchandising. He was determine, from the findings of the probe, and Support” agreement, the New York- Standard General indicated in a regula- president of Daily Living Products and whether Charney should be reinstated as based hedge fund — along with Charney tory filing Wednesday with the Securities Solutions of Walgreen Co., from 2011 the company’s ceo or serve with the com- — also agreed not to acquire any addi- and Exchange Commission that the desig- and 2013. According to the SEC filing, pany in any capacity. tional shares in American Apparel and nees, with the exception of Glazek, are not he led the Walgreens retail acquisition Charney was removed as chairman and limit their vote to no more than one-third affiliated with the hedge fund, do not have team that acquired Alliance in ceo in June pending the findings of the in- of the company’s shares on any issue put any material relationship with Standard 2012. He was also president of Duane ternal investigation. Charney, still on sus- to stockholders. Their remaining shares General and are not affiliated with nor Reade Holdings Inc. from July 2010 to pension, has taken the company to arbitra- would be voted proportionately to the have any relationship with Charney. March 2011, and was senior vice presi- tion for what he said is a wrongful dismissal. vote of other shareholders. They also Glazek is a partner at Standard General. dent and chief merchandising officer John Lutrell, executive vice president and agreed not to solicit proxies in connec- In the SEC filing that disclosed the of Duane Reade Holdings from 2008 to chief financial officer, serves as interim ceo. tion with the common stock or form or board member designees, it was noted 2010. Walgreen acquired Duane Reade American Apparel and Standard join any group with respect to the stock. that even though Sullivan and Magnacca in a deal valued at $1.1 billion in 2010. General earlier this month inked an The standstill agreement remains in also know Soohyung Kim, the chief execu- It will take 10 days from Wednesday’s agreement — along with Charney — that effect until American Apparel’s 2015 an- tive officer of Standard General, they still SEC filing before the board can be recon- would give the retailer up to $25 million nual meeting.

officer. Geithner, who fell victim to Time Inc.’s reorganization in February, held the role of executive vice president and group president of Bangladesh Accord Seeks MEMO PAD the style and entertainment group, which oversaw marquee titles People and InStyle. He left after a Funding From Members CONDÉ SHAKE-UP: Condé Nast revealed its new 21-year run at the company. executive structure Wednesday, which media This shuffle gives Sauerberg a bigger platform insiders view as the blueprint for the company’s and standing for when Townsend eventually retires. By KRISTI ELLIS succession plan. Condé Nast declined to comment on the speculation Central to that plan is the reorganization that Townsend might wait to retire until the company WASHINGTON — The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in of the executive team, which includes the relocates by 2015 to One World Trade Center in Bangladesh said in an annual report released Wednesday that departures of Tom Wallace, editorial director, and Lower Manhattan. A source close to Townsend told it is projecting a budget shortfall by the end of the year and is John Bellando, chief financial officer and chief WWD that the exec is “not going to retire soon,” while seeking additional short-term funding from its 180 global brand operating officer, as well as the expansion of Bob another pointed to his multiyear contract. According and retail members to support a massive inspection program Sauerberg’s role as president. to reports, that will be up in 2018, but the 69-year-old encompassing some 1,500 garment factories in Bangladesh. The three executives did not return requests exec could opt out before then. In a director’s statement in the report, the accord said it seeking comment, but Condé Nast said that Either way, the ceo’s comments indicated that will need more funding in its second year from its members to Bellando’s decision to leave the company was his Sauerberg, 53, is the heir apparent thus far. “meet the challenging target” of making its goal of inspecting own and that he would consult with the company “As many of you know, Bob and I have worked 1,500 factories by the end of September. through the end of the year. side by side as ceo and president to ensure we Led by IndustriALL Global Union and UNI Global Union A spokesman for the company told WWD that prepare the company to reach new heights,” he and signed by 180 companies, including H&M, Marks & Wallace’s role would not be filled. When asked said, indicating that Sauerberg would make more , Carrefour, Primark and C&A, the accord was launched whether artistic director Anna Wintour will have announcements in the near future. “Today’s in May 2013 amid intense global scrutiny following a fire and a larger role as a result, the spokesman said her announcement begins this seamless transition building collapse in the country that claimed the lives of more role “stays the same.” and gives me more confidence than ever that our than 1,200 workers. But Wintour’s role has been somewhat best years are yet to come.” The accord’s directors said they will seek to reduce member amorphous since her ascension to the position last But one insider cautioned against reaching contributions in the latter years of the five-year commitment to year. In addition to continuing her responsibilities any sweeping conclusions into the memo. compensate for the needed boost of funding in the second year. as editor in chief of Vogue, she has influenced “You’ve got a company that intentionally The accord reported a surplus of $4.4 million for the year in a hands-on manner the editorial direction keeps it vague,” the insider said. ending Dec. 31, 2013, noting that it was generated due to the of various Condé titles such as Brides, Lucky, — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD “political instability” in Bangladesh between December 2013 Glamour, Condé Nast Traveler and Self. and March, resulting in the “postponement of the rollout of the According to Wednesday’s memo sent to IN THE ROUGH: Sonia Rykiel has tapped Juergen inspection programme.” staff, chief executive officer Chuck Townsend Teller for its fall advertising campaign starring But the accord is estimating a shortfall of $7.8 million by the end said Wintour “will ensure that our content and Gisele Bündchen. of this year due to increased costs associated with the inspection culture remain at the forefront of our industry.” The Brazilian model is seen without makeup program, which will leave a deficit of $3.4 million, the report said. An insider likened Wintour’s power to that in the black-and-white shots, taken in an artist’s Despite the projected deficit, the accord’s directors said they ex- of former editorial director, the late Alexander studio. The images mark a stark departure pect to fully recover the $3.4 million by the end of the second year. Liberman, offering: “When Tom [Wallace] took that from the French fashion brand’s previous two “The decision to seek additional funding for the inspection position, it was largely administrative. Tom was advertising campaigns, which featured graphic program is supported by the fact that we will have a cash fund more of an operator for the editors.” colored backdrops by graphic of circa $1.35 million at the start of year three of the accord in On the business side, Sauerberg, design duo M/M (Paris). June, 2015,” the report said. whom many view as Townsend’s The fall shoot was art directed “We are confident that the accord is well-positioned both likely successor as ceo, will now and styled by Katie Grand, who financially and operationally to deliver on its stated purpose take the lead in all revenue said she took her cue from of delivering a safe and healthy Bangladesh RMG [ready-made generation activities. His areas pictures of the label’s founder, garment] sector,” the directors said in the report. of responsibility will stretch Sonia Rykiel, in the Seventies. The accord said it has completed inspections at more than beyond the management of digital, “They were very elegant black- 800 factories to date. technology, consumer marketing, and-white snapshots of her in the “In less than 2 percent of all inspected factories, the struc- business development, corporate studio and on a car, and reminded tural inspection findings led our chief safety inspector to re- administration and Condé Nast me of Juergen Teller’s work. Once quest the authorities to evacuate the building until additional Entertainment, and include taking Juergen had agreed to work with strength testing took place and/or until immediate remedial direct responsibility for the Condé us, we wanted to work with a measures were taken to allow the safe resumption of produc- Nast Media Group, as well as brand woman with Madame Rykiel’s joie tion and re-occupancy,” the report said. ELLER revenue growth. T de vivre, and the obvious choice The accord also said 100 corrective action plans have been Chief revenue officer Lou Cona, was Gisele,” she said. agreed to by factory owners. who reported to Townsend, will now “Juergen does not often A separate industry initiative known as the Alliance for report to Sauerberg. JUERGEN shoot in black-and-white and we Bangladesh Worker Safety, made up of primarily North BY Also reporting to Sauerberg asked him to shoot film to give American retailers, launched its initiative in July 2013. In its an-

is new hire David Geithner, who PHOTO an authenticity to the images,” nual report released Tuesday, the alliance noted it has inspected assumes the role of chief financial A fall ad image from Sonia Rykiel. Grand added. — JOELLE DIDERICH all of the 587 factories its member companies use in Bangladesh.

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Face Value By TAYLOR HARRIS

MODELS CAN BE TOUGH to empathize with. Just look at them — they must have it easy. So when talk of a new documentary about what it’s really like to be a model comes up, the knee-jerk reaction is typically an eye roll and a ticking off the familiar tropes: Dieting is no picnic? You don’t say. But presumptions aside, the day-to-day life of this industry’s top catwalkers is largely a mystery. Manon Leloup, the 22-year-old French model, one of the most in-demand girls in recent years (she walked in 37 fall shows), recently codirected a new documentary with Niels Benoist titled “Speaking Dolls” (now available on Vimeo). It attempts to pull back the curtain, for better and for worse. “I’d like to show the reality of this unusual job,” Leloup says in the first few minutes of the film. But unlike other docs in a similar vein, “Speaking Dolls” doesn’t make the predictable case. When allusions to industry reform (e.g. the CFDA Health Initiative and the like) come up, she recoils. “No, no. I approached it with no agenda,” she says, over a glass of sauvignon blanc in New York. “The movie isn’t about a single message, like, ‘This is a bad thing.’ It is just about what is the reality of young girls living the modeling experience. It’s not a message, it’s just to show the truth from our perspective.” Leloup is in town from Paris for a few days, mostly for a Vogue magazine shoot. Manon Leloup wearing Before that, she had a brief respite in the French countryside after doing the haute Véronique Leroy’s embroidered couture shows (she walked four, including Privé and Jean Paul Gaultier). cotton mesh dress. Lanvin “I’ve been very busy,” she says. “But I’m happy when I’m busy. That’s why it was flower pin. good to shoot this during the shows. I prefer to be thinking about something else and not ‘I’m so tired.’” “Speaking Dolls” documents Leloup’s journey — and, by proximity, the journey of other working models — through the multicity circus of spring 2014’s fashion month. With Leloup often behind the camera, it focuses on a handful of her cohorts: Yumi Lambert, Marine Deleeuw, Cora Emmanuel and Pauline Hoarau. She ended up shooting more than 14 hours of film, which was whittled down to 52 minutes. “Editing was a big mess,” Leloup says. The film covers everything from the seemingly prosaic — Lambert stopping into a Potbelly in Times Square to shove a football-size cheeseburger down between castings — to models’ real concerns, namely making a living off a job with an inherently short shelf life. “At Phillip Lim, one girl looked just like me. It’s the girl who opened the show. People say it’s my double,” eye Lambert says of fellow model Emma Waldo in one scene. “Despite the fact that they know me, that they like me, she is a new, new face. She opened the show, not me. Sometimes, I just feel like I’m not fresh enough. I feel old, even if I’m only 18 years old.” Leloup explains that more than anything she wanted to show that models, deemed essentially anonymous faces by most attending the shows, have a unique perspective on the industry. “We are in the middle of the most intimate, most private parts of fashion. We see every part of it. I wanted to show what we observe,” Leloup says. “I wanted to give us a voice, a third dimension. We’re not just a face.” Admittedly, her beauty is certainly distracting. She oozes easy Parisian cool almost to the point of cliché. Her enviably bushy brows frame her eyes, puddles of icy gray-blue. Her daintily featured face sits atop a towering stalk of a neck. She’s wearing a gray tank under an easy chambray , sleeves rolled up and collar popped. Running her fingers through disheveled bob of brown hair, Leloup has the look of a femmed-up James Dean. At a Midtown boîte, packed with during happy hour on a balmy Friday night, Leloup is hard to miss. When she notices the boozy male rubberneckers, she blushes. “Boys don’t, how do you say, approach me,” she says in her melodic French lilt. Come on. “No, really!” she insists. Perhaps it’s because men go for a cheesier, more accessible look? “Exactly!” Leloup says. “Because if ‘model’ is written on your forehead, it means you’re not accessible. That’s the one way that getting branded ‘model’ is good. You don’t get bothered.”

PHOTOS BY FRANCK MURA STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER

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Yiqing Yin’s silk chiffon and satin dress. Véronique Leroy .

Lanvin’s embroidered silk tulle and viscose dress and silk crepe pants.

SEE MANON ON THE RUNWAY AT WWD.com/eye. GENCY PARIS A ALLISTE C

AT D EA H ITE H W NY E

BY P MAKEU PARIS; URELIEN A GENCE A

AT DI MORO VINCENT HAIR BY

w24a004(5)a;8.indd 2 7/23/14 7:42 PM 07232014194334 6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 NRF Cuts Retail Sales Forecast Facebook Commerce’s Next Wave

{Continued from page one} sales tax holidays beginning this weekend {Continued from page one} [users] off Facebook. I think we’ll “We’re losing that mall shopper, that in Alabama and progressing through the “Commerce is really important see a similar pattern with com- browser,” said a ceo of a national specialty South and later in the North in the weeks and is a growing, important part of merce. Brands will want to make it chain. “The first quarter was horrific — the ahead, raises some expectations. B-t-s, in our business,” Sandberg said. “But I so that a consumer can make a pur- first half tepid at best. I don’t think anyone certain states, starts in earnest this week- don’t think people can confuse that chase with one click — but on their is looking for a bang-up Q3. People are just end. On a national basis, it’s in full swing with Facebook selling things directly.” own Web site, not to Facebook.”

waiting for another dogfight. If anything, the first weekend of August. The new “buy” button is similar to Todd Huseby, partner in A . T. they’re looking for opportunity in Q4.” Johnson predicts b-t-s sales will be up some of the social network’s previous Kearney’s Digital Business Forum, The NRF sees a healthier positive trend 3.2 percent. “That’s the worst since 2009,” efforts at commerce. is more optimistic about Facebook’s developing in the second half, which starts he said. Last year it was 4.2 percent, and in was one place in the e-tail landscape. in August. “There is plenty of evidence that prior years, saw midsingle gains. of the first luxury brands to test Although social commerce has the second half of the year will be better “Certainly we have seen difficulty in the F-commerce in November 2011 with been a challenge, he said Facebook for the industry as consumers begin to feel economy this year,”’’ said NRF’s Kleinhenz, the release of its $65 Esprit d’Oscar has a better chance than most to gain more optimistic about their spending deci- during a conference call. “We thought the solid perfume ring. But Alex Bolen, in the area. He pointed to a change sions,” Shay said. “And though we maintain economy would improve and see more bal- chief executive officer of Oscar de la realistic expectations of retail sales growth ance across sectors. The weather was cer- Renta, has since acknowledged that in 2014, we are optimistic that the chances tainly a very discouraging big negative for initial experiment was not as for a stronger economy still exist.” gross domestic product for the first quarter.” successful as anticipated. Selling on Facebook NRF calculated that sales grew 2.9 per- On the other hand, he said income lev- Many experts argue cent during the first half of this year and els, employment and consumer confidence that people aren’t ac- The social networking giant should grow at least 3.9 percent during the are improving. “We are doing better but customed to coming to has tried to repeatedly open second half. The numbers include general re- not well. Nominal income has increased Facebook to shop. tail sales and nonstore sales, and exclude au- and should continue to as inflation con- Amy ter Haar, ceo the door to commerce, but tomobiles, gasoline stations and restaurants. cerns and pressure are reduced.” The of Flow Inc., a mo- has failed to gain traction. “The severe weather and other factors housing market, he said, gives mixed sig- bile payments ecosystem we experienced earlier this year have taken nals — starts have recently plummeted, driven by social networks, said 2009: 1-800-Flowers their toll on retail, but most of those prob- but home sales have been positive. While Facebook needs to get into com- becomes the first brand to sell lems are behind us,” said NRF chief econo- merce, but that its most recent effort mist Jack Kleinhenz. “A second look at our is still far from game-changing. directly on Facebook. forecast shifted our expectations slightly, If there is weak real “It’s necessary to offer really but it’s important to note that the outlook is [seamless] transactions,” ter Haar 2011: Oscar de la Renta positive. Sales are growing and we expect income growth, said of Facebook building upon its becomes one of the first luxury them to continue at a moderate pace.” commerce experience. “It’s neces- brands to sell on the site, but Others are less hopeful. sary but it’s not visionary. It won’t en- “We have not seen any signs of a pickup,” there is going to be able an omnichannel experience.” later drops the effort. said Craig Johnson, president of Customer Ter Haar said Facebook seems to Growth Partners. “The outlet malls are OK weak retail sales. understand that there is an opportunity 2014: Facebook begins but not great. Usually they are pretty good with mobile payments and social com- testing its “buy” button with a on summer weekends when people are trav- — CRAIG JOHNSON, CUSTOMER merce, but ultimately needs to do more. few companies. eling, but traffic at key destination stores “They have to offer a value propo- such as Michael Kors and Coach has not GROWTH PARTNERS sition for merchants — [such as] in- been what it’s been in the past.” creased sales, a decreased cost of “The single biggest issue is disposable the unemployment rate will probably be sale and a new source of revenue,” to Facebook’s algorithm last year income growth,” Johnson added. “If there pulled downward, concerns over high food ter Haar said. that was successful in “placing ads is weak real income growth, there is going and energy prices continue, he noted. He Bulgari and were other that consumers had ‘skipped over’ to be weak retail sales. characterized consumers as “remaining early adopters of F-commerce and into the stream of relevant news “The second factor is that for the first modest spenders, cautious, selective, price- in 2011 began directing Facebook feeds, and this seems to have sig- time in over two years, we’ve seen rapidly sensitive, which raises issues of how fast users to their respective e-com- nificantly increased the number of rising food inflation, particularly in meat, this economy can grow. The outlook really merce sites, interrupting the linear ‘shares’ from consumers.” Also, the dairy and produce, which are up 6 to 8 per- requires low interest rates to support con- path to purchase that Facebook is sheer nature of anything that makes cent. Overall food inflation is running 3.5 sumer spending.” now encouraging. commerce more seamless will likely percent. Gas prices have been up but two “We are not making news today by ac- However, Debra Aho Williamson, get traction. weeks ago, they started settling down.” knowledging the first half of the year was a principal analyst at eMarketer, said “If an ad is shared from a friend, Johnson is also concerned about what he really tough and that has caused everyone commerce on Facebook will revert then it will appear endorsed,” sees on the store shelves. “There’s nothing to think about projections’’ for the year,” back to the approach initially taken Huseby said. “And if I can buy from new at the mall, no real compelling fash- said Shay. “The positive message is how by Bulgari and Chanel. an easy button without any or many ions, nothing that’s hot in consumer elec- strong we think the second half will be. She said companies will want other hurdles, then it has a good tronics. People are trading down. Apple’s The challenge is we are in this really low- purchases to take place on their own chance to succeed.” retail sales were essentially flat last quarter. growth environment, despite the [strength sites instead of on Facebook and com- For now, Facebook’s ad-based The Apple stores are less crowded.” of the] stock market and home sales, con- pared this with what happened to ad- model seems to have plenty of mo- Retailers have said that activewear, sumers aren’t feeling confident across the vertising on Facebook. mentum to carry the company for- , swim, shoes, accessories, rompers, board, top to bottom.” “A few years ago, brand advertis- ward. Second-quarter profits surged , maxi and -body and Shay also said there haven’t been signif- ing was aimed at directing people 138 percent to $788 million, or 30 are doing the best, while , icant levels of business investment, retail- somewhere back on Facebook — cents a diluted share, on a 60.5 per- generally and jewelry have ers feel there will be winners and losers in either a Facebook page or app,” cent gain in revenues, to $2.91 billion. been soft. every category during the second half and Williamson said. “Now that’s not About 92 percent of the company’s The onset of back-to-school and state the environment remains tough. the case. Now most ads direct revenues come from advertising. Study Finds Physical Plus Digital Is Best Retail Strategy tailers should consider when determining ous stages of the shopping journey in 71 strategy is best thought of as “physical By VICKI M. YOUNG how to allocate resources and investments percent of online sales, the study found. with digital.” Viewing a retail strategy across different shopping channels. By category, the study found the in- through two channels “hinders retailers’ OMNICHANNEL might be the buzz word, Given the importance of the physi- store channel preference highest at ability to create a seamless, end-to-end but brick-and-mortar still plays the piv- cal-store format, the A . T. Kearney study slightly less than 60 percent for the customer experience.” otal role in value creation. concluded that the future of retail is discovery of apparel and accessories The study found that there’s profit po- In an A . T. Kearney study, “One still “solidly anchored in the brick-and- items. Health and beauty scored highest tential for retailers with a strong store Solid Ground: Brick-and-Mortar Is the mortar channel.” The debate then isn’t at slightly less than 90 percent when it base plus digital channels: increased Foundation of Omnichannel Retailing,” over digital or physical, but how best to came to trying and testing products. shopper loyalty, sales lift and cross-chan- the conclusion is that value creation — develop omnichannel strategies where By age, it wasn’t a surprise that se- nel sales. Based on data from retailers, 70 brand-building and product awareness — each consumer touch point adds value to niors as a group had the highest per- percent of online consumers live within a is distinct from value capture, the chan- maximize customer satisfaction and re- centage for preferring the in-store ex- physical store’s trade area. Click-to-brick nel where the sales transaction occurs. tailer profitability where stores remain perience across all components of the retailers — Internet retailers such as Further, 90 percent of all retail sales are the foundation of a retail strategy. shopping journey. Millennials ranked the Bonobos and Warby Parker who are add- transacted in stores, and 95 percent of all The study looked at product purchas- lowest among the groups who said they ing a physical presence to their online retail sales are captured by retailers that es as part of a shopping journey: begin- preferred stores, choosing instead mul- platforms — see e-commerce sales lifts of have physical locations. ning with product discovery, moving to tiple retail channels. Surprisingly, teens three to five times in the built-out markets. Stores can provide consumers with the trial and test, purchase, and finally, de- as a whole placed ahead of Millennials The report showed the advantage in- sensory experience of the merchandise, as livery or pickup. It noted that while con- and even Gen Xers in their preference store and online channels have playing well as immerse themselves in the brand sumer preferences determine how and for the in-store experience. A . T. Kearney off of each other, citing studies indicating experience, in ways that a digital format where value is created and captured, concluded that this was critical for retail- that 23 percent of consumers purchase can’t, even if they ultimately go online to the preference for stores is “more pro- ers and brand-builders who can leverage more items when picking up an online make their purchases. That makes the nounced for high touch-and-feel catego- the teen preference for in-store shopping order from stores and up to 20 percent of store an important component in contrib- ries, such as apparel and accessories,” to cultivate lifelong relationships. shoppers who return an online purchase uting to the conversion of sales, a factor re- and the physical store is involved at vari- A . T. Kearney also found that a retail in-store will make an additional purchase. WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 7 WWD.COM High Fashion Quotient Marks Pirelli 2015 FASHION SCOOPS with a dominatrix.” ROCKS RETURNING: “Fashion Rocks,” the By DAVID YI To prep, Smalls said she avoided fashion and music TV special that last dairy “because it makes me bloated,” aired in 2008, is returning in September HAVING TAKEN A BREAK for its 50th- and worked out on a strict regiment for with performances by Jennifer Lopez, anniversary calendar last year, which the weeks preceding the shoot. Duran Duran, Kiss and Miranda Lambert, reissued old photographs from its ar- For Murphy, being associated with among others. chives, Pirelli is coming back in 2015 Meisel, Pirelli and Roitfeld was enough Richard Beckman, the former Condé with a heavy fashion bang. to clear her entire schedule. Nast and Fairchild executive who was The famed Pirelli Calendar — or “Even if I had a lot going on this most responsible for spearheading The Cal, as it’s called — will feature week, I would absolutely have cleared the special in its initial incarnation, photographs taken by Steven Meisel it for this shoot,” she said. “I learned is producing through his Three Lions and styled by of 12 of about it [the calendar] since the Entertainment outfit along with Don the world’s top high-fashion models. Nineties. Since then, I’ve learned Mischer Productions. Beckman, the They include: Adriana Lima, Natalia about it so much more. As a model, it’s former president of the Condé Nast Media Vodianova, Raquel Zimmermann, a true honor to be in it. Doing Pirelli Group and chief executive officer of Isabeli Fontana, Sasha Luss, Anna is very different because it’s about WWD parent Fairchild, created the Three Ewers, Carolyn Murphy, Cameron being a woman and celebrating be- Lions production company last year after Russell, Gigi Hadid, Candice Huffine, coming a woman.” leaving Prometheus Global Media as ceo. Karen Elson and . The shoot brought together industry Ryan Seacrest will host live from Also, Huffine became the first veterans and rookies alike, like Hadid, Barclays Center in Brooklyn this year’s plus-size model to two-hour special, which will air on CBS be featured in the on Sept. 9. Pitbull, Rita Ora, The Band 50 years of The Perry, Nico & Vinz and Usher are the other Cal’s existence. scheduled performers. Smalls — who Joan STEVEN MEISEL “Fashion Rocks,” which was first shot for the calendar Smalls broadcast in 2003, will air live for the a second time — said first time during New York Fashion Week, it was Meisel who PHOTOS BY Beckman said. — WWD STAFF brought her back. I guess there has to be “I was [pleased] that next generation. AND THE GUGGENHEIM PARTY ON: For because this is my Carine Roitfeld has the second year, Dior is sponsoring the second time, but been so supportive with Guggenheim International Gala, a two- shooting it with my career. She really night event to take Steven Meisel, pushed for me. I’m so FOR MORE place Nov. 5 and 6 in he’s a legend,” she grateful to have her in SCOOPS, SEE New York. The annual said, while sport- my life.” WWD.com. benefit honors artists ing Alexander Wang In the shoot, Hadid Carrie Mae Weems, whose , a Rag & is photographed playing retrospective was on Bone and volleyball, a sport she view at the museum Gucci sneakers. Adriana played in high school, last spring; Heinz Mack, Otto Piene and “There are so many Lima which contrasts heavily Günther Uecker of the German artist group beautiful women with another more sexy Zero, whose work will be featured in who can be doing shoot involving latex. “Zero: Countdown to Tomorrow, 1950s-60s” this, so because there were only 12 girls the 19-year-old fresh-faced “It” girl who “I’m wearing all latex in one shot, from Oct. 10 to Jan. 7, and Beijing-based selected, I feel very honored.” has since become Roitfeld’s newest muse. which is very cool,” she said. “I’ve contemporary artist Wang Jianwei with the She was playing a boxer on-set, “When I heard I was being a part of never worn latex before but everyone’s, exhibition “Wang Jianwei: Time Temple” she said, which wasn’t too much of a this, I thought they were kidding,” she like, telling me that it would suck be- on view Oct. 31 to Feb. 16. stretch for her. said. The Los Angeles-based model — cause you get all sweaty and you can’t The GIG kicks off with a pre-party Nov. “I loved the character I had to play. who is in her second year at NYU — was breathe. But I really like it and now I 5 featuring a performance by The xx, the I used to box and it was related to box- wearing a white T-shirt and with want latex .” trio from South London who performed at ing, but they didn’t have me box. It was her golden locks in a tight Heidi braid. The entire calendar was shot in New New York’s Park Avenue Armory in March. character-driven — like a boxer mixed “I was like, ‘They want me in it?’ York City and will debut in November. — JESSICA IREDALE Getting Intimate With Britney MOVE OVER, Jessica Simpson. Britney iers and kimonos, as well as lounge- Spears wants a piece of the apparel action. wear such as , The 32-year-old recording artist and sweats. Details include crocheted and entertainer has signed a deal with edges, satin ribbons and lace trim. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Change , a Danish company, will have A through J cup sizing, to launch a line of sleepwear apparel and the bottoms range from sizes 0 to called The Intimate Britney Spears. 28. The line will retail from $17 to $79. The collection will launch Sept. 9 Spears shared a glimpse of the col- Spaces in New York, with an appearance by lection on her Instagram Wednesday, in Spears. It will be sold at intimatebrit- which she models a black and high- neyspears.com in the U.S. and Canada, waisted . COMMERCIAL barenecessities.com and some special- “Every woman should feel confident REAL ESTATE Logistic Manager Needed for a MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED ty boutiques throughout the U.S. and and beautiful in everything she puts Hard Goods company. Track & Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- manage ocean freight shipments. on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ Canada. Change has more than 180 lin- on. My vision for The Intimate Britney Negotiate inland Freight. Working stores. If you sell to gerie stores internationally and plans Spears is to create pieces that are knowledge of Retail-Link. Track buyers, email: [email protected]. Customer PO through shipment. to open 40 more in 2015. Spears’ linge- sexy, luxurious and comfortable at the Monitor Inventory Levels. Send 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Resumes: [email protected] rie will be carried in those outposts as same time,” said Spears, who released TEXTILE SALESPERSON IN well, according to a spokeswoman. her eighth studio album, “Britney Menswear Showrooms NEW YORK AREA D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Production Merchandiser-Mantra, Inc. Join one of the most innovative The collection features feminine Jean,” in November. She is performing d/b/a Moka (NYC) seeks Production technical Textile companies in the lingerie sets, vintage-inspired bust- in her Planet Hollywood Las Vegas Merchandiser to analyze mkt prices of world. Experience in selling technical raw materials, labor/shipping costs, FX fabrics a must. If you light up the show, “Britney: rates, ImpEx tariffs & rel taxes; room and are passionate about sales, Piece of Me.” Review POs; dvp grade rules; review email resumes: [email protected]. incoming samples; monitor prod Britney Spears will Spears is about status of overseas prod facilities; launch a line of to launch her 16th liaise btw designers/ USA Denim & Related Fabrics merchandisers/intl vendors & buying Wholesaler of in-stock inventory sleepwear called The fragrance with houses; direct prod team at seeking Sales Agent for target areas Intimate Britney Spears. Elizabeth Arden factories in India; & negotiate prices. in Central/ South America & Mexico. Must have BBA in Mgmt/ Must be bi-lingual.Please Contact: called Fantasy rel (US/foreign) + 2 yrs exp in garment [email protected] High quality service industry (or 4 yrs industry exp). Stage Edition. Pattern, sampling, duplicates To apply, email res. to [email protected] In 2010, Spears and small production. MK Fashion 212-768-7446 did a limited-edi- [email protected] tion, co-branded collection with PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Candie’s for PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Kohl’s stores. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 The prior year she was tapped as the face of the Candie’s brand. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] — LISA LOCKWOOD SPRING into ACTION YOU CAN NEVER BE TOO EARLY—A PREVIEW OF SPRING/SUMMER TRENDS FOR 2015

IN PRINT & ONLINE: 9/22 AD CLOSE: 8/8 RODOLFO MARTINEZ. REPRESENTS, GROOMING USING LVA BY ANDY STARKWEATHER STARKWEATHER AT ORGANIC. MODELS: JAMES LASKY CLICK, IMG, AT SAM AND AT STIRLING FUSION. AT FASHION MERCEDES ASSISTANT: PSL BASS.

M reaches the most influential decision makers, plus the world’s most stylish men. WWD.COM/M ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: Paul Jowdy,Vice President, Group Publisher 212.630.2434 | paul—[email protected] Just Desert Michael Bastian PLUS looked to the The Webster Miami to open West Coast in the Seventies for spring men’s-only store in inspiration. Bal Harbour. Page MW2 Page MW2

July 24, 2014

SPRING SELLING Retailers Upbeat About Future Biz Blue Specialty stores expect sales to strengthen this fall.

by JEAN E. PALMIERI Mood NEW YORK — Working hard pays off — just ask the specialty stores on the New York City trade show circuit this week. Shades of blue, Buoyed by decent spring business, inde- Japanese pendent merchants were in an upbeat mood as they visited the booths at Project, Liberty, references and MRket, Capsule and Agenda researching the trends and trolling for new vendors and ultralight tailoring key items for spring. By scouring the aisles and ferreting out unique pieces to tempt were among their customers, they hope to continue the momentum as the temperatures cool and the key trends fall goods hit the floors. There was also talk at the shows about that caught the growing potential for a unified men’s fashion week. retailers’ eyes Among the most saleable items, they said, were soft, tailored clothing, accesso- on the recently ries and footwear. “Our business is pretty good,” said Rush completed trade Wilson 3rd of Rush Wilson Ltd. in Greenville, circuit during S.C. He pointed to Southern Tide, a local sportswear vendor, as among the store’s New York top performers. “They’re a hometown line and they’re poised to grow,” Wilson said, market week. noting that he grew up with founder Allen Stephenson’s father and uncle in Greenville. For an in-depth “The line has great demand and has brought in a lot of new young customers. That’s how look at these we attract the next generation.” Other lines that are working include and other salable Peter Millar, he said. “We put in a Peter Millar Crown shop last October and it’s items for spring, done very well,” he said. “We’ve always car- ried the line, but the business has grown see pages MW4 along with the brand.” Wilson admitted that sales this year are to MW7. running a “little flatter” than last year, “but it’s still positive.” At the shows, he was “looking for a mod- erately priced line. We have sport coming out of our ears,” he said. He was searching for a brand with “a quality look and a little bit of fashion” that can retail for about $100 or less. “We have to make sure we have opening-tier merchandise that is not mundane,” he said. “And we’re always looking for the next thing — and you don’t know what that is un- less you’re looking.” Mike Zack of Circa 2000 in Plano, Tex., agreed. “We have to keep trying to be more creative,” he said. “We’re fighting things we didn’t have before.” That includes Web-only

ALEX BADIA competitors as well as upscale retailers with their own outlets, such as Saks Fifth Avenue’s Off 5th and Nordstrom Rack, that Dickies x Palmer “hurt our sale business. Trading’s cotton “Our vendors are competing with us on handkerchief and , the Internet,” he said. “But they don’t have Max N Chester’s cotton rent or an electric bill to pay. So we’ve got to jacket, Barney Cools’ come to the shows to find something to re- cotton shirt and Camo’s GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY place these new competitors. We’re looking cotton denim pants. for things that aren’t footballed around.”

PHOTO BY {Continued on page MW8} MW2 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 Men’s Week

The ads begin running this Michael Bastian’s Desert Dreams week. by JEAN E. PALMIERI Looks from NEW YORK — Michael Bastian took a trip the spring out West for his spring collection. collection. The New York-based designer said his inspiration for the desert-themed line started with the Sonoran Desert and ex- panded to include the Eagles, Jackson Browne, Linda Ronstadt and other hall- marks of California in the late-Seventies. “I saw a video on the history of the Eagles and that led to a whole Southern California, late-Seventies rock moment. Once you fall down the Google rabbit hole, you don’t know where you’re going to come out,” he said during a presenta- tion of the line at his West Side show- room here earlier this week. “There’s lots of denim and suede; it’s very Southwestern,” he said, pointing Jets’ Eric Decker to the cotton crewneck sweater with a sunset pattern, red linen tartan Western shirt and cactus green Sedona shorts. Backs Buffalo There were denim motocross jeans, bleached denim shirts and even a linen by ARNOLD J. KARR denim . “When you do Western, it’s easy to fall into territory,” he said. A LONG-SUFFERING New York Jets fans suede , printed with are eager to see what wide receiver Eric Navajo patterns and fighting scorpions, and Decker can do for the team’s offense button-down shirts with embroidered ac- in the season ahead. But he’s already cents also set the tone without being hokey. gained a following in the fashion world Even the more tailored pieces showed as the second athlete to participate in their casual side, with suits and sport the Buffalo Pro program undertaken for in cotton mixed with linen or silk. Buffalo David Bitton by Iconix Brand “We used a lot of interesting blends,” Group, which acquired a 51 percent stake Bastian said. “But everything’s really in the denim brand in early 2013. Decker, coming off a strong season with the Denver Broncos, will appear — both on his own and alongside model- actress Erin Heatherton — in a series of GEORGE CHINSEE ads for Buffalo David Bitton to run be- ginning this week.

PHOTOS BY The Buffalo Pro series kicked off last year with ads featuring Chandler laid-back, even the formalwear.” Bastian opted to show his spring collection prior Parsons — then with the National offered up a midnight blue double-faced to New York Fashion Week in September. Basketball Association’s Houston tuxedo that he paired with a Western belt “September just doesn’t make sense Rockets and now signed with the Dallas and a cotton-linen, cream-colored dinner for American men’s wear,” he said. “We Mavericks — and according to Dari jacket was shown with a denim shirt and finish selling in July so showing then is Marder, chief marketing officer of Iconix, skinny cotton trousers. just a p.r. exercise.” And the men’s de- struck exactly the right chord. Although the line may have its roots in signers are generally overshadowed by “Buffalo Pro is really targeted to our the desert, it remained true to Bastian’s their counterparts in women’s. male demographic and reaching them preppie, Americana roots and felt fresh “It always feels like you’re a men’s through sports,” she said. “It’s about and innovative. “The Southwestern con- brand dropped into the middle of the wom- what guys wear to sporting events and nection is very preppie with all the but- en’s week. So that’s why we said, ‘Let’s try what athletes wear off the field, but it’s ton-downs, boots and jeans,” he said. this.’ Other big brands have taken that step also reaching women, who are just as in- Bastian, who hails from upstate New and others have shown in Europe. So it’s terested in a lot of the sports their hus- York, is focusing most of his energies on slowly happening on its own. But we’re an and boyfriends follow.” his signature collection, which made its American brand so it doesn’t make sense While the program includes out- debut seven years ago. Since leaving his to show in Milan or Paris.” door, online and in-store components, post as men’s fashion director of Bergdorf Bastian said he’d be completely sup- the bulk is in lifestyle and sports pub- Goodman to start his own brand, Bastian portive of the creation of a separate lications including Men’s Fitness, collaborated with Gant on a successful men’s fashion week in New York. “We’ll Details and Nylon Guys. The ads with lifestyle label for nine seasons, and has be the first one to jump on board if they Heatherton will also find their way into worked with George Front on jewelry, can figure it out,” he said. women’s fashion magazines including Frank Clegg on bags and small leather Turning back to his own business, Elle, Cosmopolitan and InStyle. The goods, Eugenia Kim on , with Bastian said he will be opening his first digital spend is focused on sports and Soxiety and shoes with Stubbs & Wootton. Web store in the October-November time lifestyle networks. He’s working with Uniqlo on a line of period. The spring collection will be the “We actually upped our print spend, limited-edition polo shirts, which are first one offered and Bastian also plans the number of titles, frequency and im- sold under the name Uniqlo X Michael to sell products from his collaborations pressions,” Marder told WWD, “and along Bastian, now in its second season. including the shoes, jewelry and bags. with them, the budget.” Like other American labels, notably “Until we can open our first store, this She noted that one of the biggest chal- Michael Kors and Rag & Bone, Bastian is a baby step,” he said. lenges with Decker was fitting in a shoot before he started training camp and be- came immersed in his full-time profes- sion. Focus wasn’t a problem — she said he was especially taken with the com- The Webster to Open Men’s Store pany’s new Flex Jean, which combines a jeanlike look and jogger pant feel. THE WEBSTER MIAMI, the trendy South atmosphere and top-notch service for men the most beautiful outdoor retail area in the In the ads, Decker dons a vegan leather Beach retailer, will open a separate and women. world, with a very unique level of luxury, motorcycle jacket and, in one piece, noth- men’s store at 9700 Collins Avenue in Bal The new men’s store will feature a cu- dedicated to service, on par with our own ing but Buffalo underwear. Heatherton’s Harbour this fall. The 1,700-square-foot rated assortment of ready-to-wear, shoes standards. It makes perfect sense to bring ensembles range from an oxblood vest store in the Bal Harbour Shops will be and accessories from Saint Laurent, Dior our strong fashion expertise there,” said with coordinated dress to a shot on horse- the company’s third and its first dedicated Homme, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Balmain, Laure Heriard Dubreuil, chief executive of- back wearing only Buffalo jeans. solely to men’s wear. Maison Martin Margiela, Dsquared2, Neil ficer of The Webster. Buffalo is continuing to build its pro In December, the company opened a Barrett, Alexander Wang, Baja East, Calvin The Webster Men’s will be located on ranks and, while plans aren’t yet set for 2,600-square-foot women’s store in the same Klein Collection, by Air, The Elder the second floor of the center, which is also 2015 campaigns, Kevin Love of the NBA’s tony Bal Harbour Shops on Collins Avenue. Statesman, Off-White, Thom Browne and home to luxury retailers including Neiman Minnesota Timberwolves has been tapped Because of its small size, men’s wear was Bamford. The store will be designed with Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, along with for the roster of brand ambassadors. not offered. “contemporary masculinity,” the company Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Moncler, Marder said the team will continue to Since opening in Miami’s South Beach said, using wood and bronze display walls by Thomas Pink and other high-end brands. expand. “Like with Eric, we look for ath- neighborhood in 2009, The Webster’s Asher Israelow, limited-edition works by Tom Heriard Dubreuil and her partner, Milan letes who have an appeal that goes be- 20,000-square-foot flagship has carved out a Dixon and Faye Toogood, and a light sculp- Vukmirovic, took over The Webster, a 1939 yond the core fan base,” she said. “We’re strong niche with its sharply edited selection ture by Bec Brittain. example of architect Henry Hohauser’s Art also looking beyond football and basket- of designer apparel and accessories, luxury “The Bal Harbour Shops is one-of-a-kind, Deco style, to open their first store. — J.E.P. ball into baseball and soccer.”

MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 Men’s Week

CWST Divide and Conquer The well-segmented distinction among the various trade shows, coupled with an influx of new brands across all categories, provided retailers with a variety of highlights and trend-right pieces to punch up their spring assortments. Here, some top looks from Agenda, Capsule, Liberty, MRket and Project. — Alex Badia, Luis Campuzano, Jean E. Palmieri and David Yi

ARMANDO CABRAL Design/aesthetic: Short for “Engineered for Motion,” the line Designer: Armando Cabral is centered around the ideas of travel, lightweight staples, Key styles: The collection is broken into three concepts: the movement and comfort. Technological fabrics, new garment- hybrid, a mix of a shoe and sneaker that features classic styl- dyed techniques, advanced seam finishes and other con- ing with casual bottoms; contemporary sneakers, designed to struction methods are employed in everything from replace a regular shoe, and an assortment of leather -on to swimwear. espadrilles. All the shoes are made in Italy and are sold in 13 Prices: T-shirts retail for $100 and outerwear can go up to $995, but most of the collection will sell for $300 to $400. Armando Cabral J. PRESS YORK STREET Designer: Mikito Takeshima Key styles: Blazers with patch pockets, pants with updated VERA LARGO camouflage prints, button-down shirts, chinos, sweaters and Designer: David Cockrell Vera bow ties all work together to appeal to a younger guy with a Key styles: The brand’s sig- Largo classic sensibility. nature floral print in a live- Design/aesthetic: Launched two years ago by Ariel and ly red, blue and white pat- tern can be found in a tight, edited collection of shorts, J. Press casual pants, tank tops, York Street T-shirts, jersey pullovers, fleeces and bomber . countries around the world. There’s even a cotton-linen Design/aesthetic: There’s more to Cabral than just a pretty for those cool sum- face. Although he’s been a regular on runways around the mer evenings. world for years, it wasn’t until 2009 that he truly followed Design/aesthetic: Founded his passion. It was that year that the Guinean-born fashion by four friends from Texas model launched his namesake collection of shoes. His line of who were searching for a men’s footwear is sophisticated and versatile — styles can be modern beachwear col- dressed up or dressed down — and above all, comfortable. lection, Vera Largo is for Prices: The shoes retail for $375 to $570. men who “don’t want surf, but want modern coastal,” ITRA M

EFM BY DONRAD DUNCAN according to Cockrell. RT

Designer: Donrad Duncan Cofounder Hunter Wilson E Key styles: Duncan, who had previously worked for Victorinox, said the brand sees “a ROB

offers a line of sportswear with active influences such as a niche for a colorful, youth- BY jacket with a nylon waterproof face; antimicrobial ful brand with a modern fit GWAY N

polos in cotton-bamboo; five-pocket trousers in open-weave ox- that is inspired by water.” I ford cotton, and a jogging pant that can double as a dress pant. Prices: Blazers are $228, HEM

shorts and polos are $68 ST and shirts are $100. ER NE

EFM by Donrad Duncan D N

ERNEST HEMINGWAY A ’S Key styles: Linen/cotton/ E RAK D

viscose pants in solids or ; EE

patterns in regular or slim S fits; reversible jersey to nylon bomber jacket; polos with N CHI the brand’s stylized marlin logo; a deerskin and cashmere E

shaker-stitch sweater, and — of course — Panama straw hats. ORG GE Design/aesthetic: The collection is BY Ernest inspired by the rug- HOTOS P Hemingway gedness of the author T

and his zest for life. MEN U

Most of the pieces C O D

are in cotton, linen D N

and silk, and the col- A S N Shimon Ovadia of Ovadia & Sons, the collection’s design is lection is manufac- I M being handled by Takeshima. Although created in Tokyo, the tured in Italy. A ENJ B collection is still authentically American, with updated Ivy Prices: Suits retail S E L

League sensibility. for around $1,500, L, Prices: Shirts are $98, jackets range from $375 to $495, sweat- polos are $79 and E G E I S

pants are $120, knits are $175 to $195 and outerwear is $450 up, pants are around S

to $550. $225 and the shaker N A sweater is $2,500. M

CWST AART B

Designer: Joe Sadler DRAKE’S S, E V

Key styles: The collection of easy sportswear staples in- Key styles: For E cludes high-waisted pleated trousers, linen-paneled blazers, spring, the British MR NI featherweight knitwear and color-blocked wovens. brand is offering a , SL

Design/aesthetic: Billed as “a spirited collection of effortless capsule collection M SS,

Left Coast cool,” CWST, pronounced “quest,” is inspired by of washed linen, E

the Pacific man. It’s made in the U.S. from fabrics sourced chambray and denim PR primarily in Japan, and has a breezy feel that would be per- shirts produced in J. fect for strolling the beaches of California. its Cleeve of London Prices: Knits average $120, pants are $215, shirts are $225 factory in Somerset,

and outerwear ranges from $300 to $500. England. To comple- EFM, CABRAL,

w24b004(5-7);6.indd 4 7/23/14 8:17 PM 07232014201959 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 MW5

Drake’s Les Benjamins Baartmans and Siegel

ment the shirts, the company produced vintage-inspired, hand-rolled brushed silk ties that “sit well with the shirts,” said creative director Michael Hill. Design/aesthetic: The company was founded in 1977 as a men’s maker and expanded into ties and pocket squares. It produces its in London and thanks to last year’s acquisition of Cleeve, its shirts are now made by metal factories that produce goods for brands such manufactured in as Balenciaga. the U.K., as well. Prices: Jersey sweaters sell for around $145, shorts for $478 All products have and the perforated suede coats retail for $1,484. an English sensi- bility with a dash shirts and sweaters in the Less is More cut-and-sewn line. DOCUMENT of “French chic” The elevated line, Black, includes sweat shorts, ribbed kha- Designer: Jong Soo Lee and a splash of kis, cotton button-ups, a set of black-and-white or gold, black Key styles: The eco-friendly line includes unbleached cot- “Italian style.” and green camo prints on bomber jackets, shorts, shirts. ton fabrics in jackets, shirts and trousers, along with indigo- Prices: Shirts retail Design/aesthetic: The Less is More line this season is a play dyed blazers, bombers and baseball jerseys, as well as one for $295 and ties for off historical icons superimposed with today’s pop stars. For denim jacket. $155. instance, one T-shirt features Miley Cyrus morphed together Design/aesthetic: The line is inspired by the architecture with Albert Einstein, another, Cleopatra with Rihanna. The in Paris, said Lee. The designer — who worked at South BERWICH Black label was inspired by the political turmoil of Turkey Key styles: Colorful and the riots in the desert. Document washed chinos Prices: Shirts average $101, bomber jackets start at $525 and and printed fancy sweaters are around $269. pants in cotton and silk with a touch of MR NIEVES stretch. Two fits are Designer: Sam Velez-Nieves ITRA M

offered — a clas- Key styles: African-inspired prints in cotton button-ups, RT

E sic with a 16-inch knits, trousers, hand-embroidered shirts, swim trunks and opening and a slim hybrid linen-cotton shirts in a fabric. ROB

BY with a 14 1/2-inch Design/aesthetic: Velez-Nieves, who launched his women’s opening. contemporary label, Nieves Lavi, 10 years ago, branched GWAY N

I Design/aesthetic: out into men’s to respond to customer demand. “It was self- The Italian slacks ish and for me because so many people were asking me HEM

ST manufacturer has about it,” he said. The line, which only took him two-and- Berwich been in business for a-half weeks to ER NE

D more than 30 years, but is just now bringing its line to the put together, was N

A U.S. market. The company is known for its innovative pat- inspired by his Mr Nieves ’S E terns as well as its detailing and finishing touches, which grandfather “and RAK D

include piping and hand-worked edging. the guayabera ; EE

S Prices: The pants retail for $240 to $350. fabrics he always N wore,” he said of CHI E MSL the collection that

ORG Designer: Billy Reid infuses the design- GE Key styles: The third collection from the Southern designer, er’s Puerto Rican BY MSL — an abbreviation for Muscle Shoals, Ala. — takes its heritage in African inspiration from workwear. The collection features cotton- prints that are re- HOTOS P

T linen trousers and shirts, chinos, premium Japanese denim sort-ready.

MEN jeans and a suede Prices: Tank tops U

C mustard jacket. sell for $75 to $98, O MSL D

D Design/aesthetic: wovens for $175 to N

A The new brand, $250 and bottoms S N I which joins the for $225 to $298. M A designer’s signa- ENJ B ture Billy Reid BAARTMANS S E L

collection, focuses AND SIEGEL L, E on a “worn-in” Designers: Wouter G E I S

look. Every piece Baartmans and S

N is meant to give a Amber Siegel Korean brand SongZio — launched his first collection this A M six- to 12-month Key styles: The season, and wanted to reduce the waste and pollution pro-

AART head start to any collection offers duced from the fashion industry. B

S, wearer to provide breathable, re- Prices: Jackets will wholesale for $220, shirts for $150, and E V

E that aged aesthetic. laxed items such $28 to $32 for T-shirts. Prices: Denim as shorts with an MR NI , will retail for $225 elastic waistband, formal pleated joggers, ripstop nylon jack- 10.DEEP SL

M and jackets start ets, reversible bombers, and perforated suede shorts with Designer: Scott Sasso SS,

E at $335. matching coats. Key styles: Mesh sweaters, full-body sweatsuits with interna-

PR Design/aesthetic: “We were inspired by Charlie Sheen in tional flag badges, hockey jerseys in cotton and velvet-suede, J. LES BENJAMINS ‘Platoon’-meets Dries Van Noten,” said Siegel. “It’s really for tech fleece jackets and cotton sweaters. Designer: Bünyamin the masculine urban male who is assertive and has a real Design/aesthetic: The New York-based streetwear line’s Aydin hunger for quiet indulgence.” The colors center around navy spring collection was inspired by an international audi-

EFM, CABRAL, Key styles: Printed and forest green and all of the hardware used is custom- ence, which it celebrated with flags — everyone’s from

w24b004(5-7);6.indd 5 7/23/14 8:17 PM 07232014202002 MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 Men’s Week

South Korea to Brazil Asgard, comes from pagan — sewn into sweaters 10.Deep 120% mythology, he explained. Mateo Bijoux in patches. Lino “It’s a place where gods Prices: range live. This line is for the from $70 to $100, jack- contemporary gods to ets from $100 to $150 wear and live in.” and crewneck shirts Prices: Denim retails for from $100 to $150. $200 to $220, suits sell for $1,000 to $1,300, knits for VANGUARD $200 to $400 and T-shirts Designers: Sam and for $60 to $70. Jono Cottee Key styles: Graphic 120% LINO Ts, jogger-style five- Key styles: Shirts, trou- pocket cuffed denim sers, hoodies and knits, all jeans with an elastic in 100 percent linen. waistband, waxed Design/aesthetic: The black denim, light luxury label, hailing khakis, mineral- from the brand’s Bologna washed , headquarters and made color-blocked “bor- entirely in Italy, is about die” walking shorts breathable apparel items and button-up shirts. that are resort-ready year- Design/aesthetic: round. Spring marks its EE

The Australian U.S. debut. S line, sold in Urban Prices: Long-sleeve shirts start at $215, short-sleeve shirts at N CHI Outfitters and $186 and polos for $334. E

Zumiez, among oth- C.P. COMPANY ORG GE ers, is an intersec- ASGER JUEL LARSEN Designer: Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti BY tion of beach and Designer: Asger Juel Larsen Asger Key styles: The spring collection moves beyond the com- streetwear. The line Key styles: Oversize hoodies; pany’s trademark goggle-hooded into a full dress

Juel HOTOS P

launched nine years bubble-wrap prints in tops and Larsen casual collection, in- N TO

bottoms; Neoprene with mesh cluding sport coats in E

jerseys; coated denim that re- classic fabrics such as DL Vanguard EN P

sembles leather, and tailored overdyed plaids or ox- F UR

double-breasted blazers. ford cloth, along with S

D

Design/aesthetic: The collec- crewneck sweaters N A tion is based on punk rock and polos with geo- E OK

and metal studs. This sea- metric patterns. C UI S

son Juel Larsen, who just Design/aesthetic: The , won the European regional Italian sportswear E

International Woolmark Prize, company was founded OULLIV S

focused on mixing mediums in 1975 with the idea of S,

such as Neoprene and mesh or reinventing urban city- NE JO jersey and cotton. wear. Since that time, Y EEP

Prices: Tops retail for $808 to the brand has become L S

$1,078, a jacket for $2,020 and known for its technical D, N

$242 for knits. outerwear, including RA B its signature goggle- TO FDMTL hooded coat. In more FEC R

Designer: Gaku Tsuyoshi recent years, it has ex- E P , N Key styles: Now in its second panded into a full life- I E season in the States, FDMTL style collection, much USS H

offers raw, distressed and dry of it centering around F LA

denim jeans in four fits: classic, regular, slim and skinny. C.P. technological fabric O

K,

Its most popular style is the distressed denim, according to Company and construction. C ago, but it wasn’t until five years ago that it ventured into a Tsuyoshi, and its most expensive is a patchwork style jean. Prices: Most of the O NC A H

full cut-and-sewn collection. Design/aesthetic: FDMTL is shorthand for Fundamental sportswear collection Prices: T-shirts range from $25 to $30, jackets from $75 to Agreement Luxury, the full name of the Japanese denim retails from $195 to $295, while the sport coats and outer- TRO, VE

$120, hats from $30 and boardshorts from $45 to $75. brand. Its products are all manufactured in Okayama, Japan, wear sell for $495 to $795. M

the denim capital of the world, where the fabric is sourced O D

, ASGARD and washed. MARCHAND DRAPIER E Designer: Stefan Miljanic Prices: Jeans re- Designer: Benoit Carpentier OUILL Key styles: Suits, Supima cotton button-ups, sport shirts, tail from $200 to Key styles: For spring, the Paris-based brand takes its inspi- FDMTL GR EN

blazers, leather jackets, spring trenchcoats, field jackets, $700. ration from Southern Italy with its color palette that “mixes E D

denim and boiled wovens. the colors of the earth and sea.” Those hues are found in E Design/aesthetic: Miljanic, the designer for Gilded Age, said MATEO BIJOUX the company’s , reversible jackets, shirts with gros- with this line he wanted a more-streamlined aesthetic and Designer: Mateo grain taping on the placket and jackets printed with fish or worked to create a look that was clean, architectural and Bijoux green and black olives. Other key pieces include a cotton- modern. “I always loved architecture,” he said. “I wanted Key styles: For Lycra chino and a formal tuxedo jacket that Carpentier likes to create a line that was simple, clean, sharp.” The name, spring, the ster- to pair with jeans. ITRA M

ling-silver jew- Design/aesthetic: MITRA; CHRISTYS’, CUISS RT E

elry collection is Carpentier was born RT Asgard E

themed around into the apparel OB ROB R

“anything you business. His fam- BY can find in a tool- ily has been in the BY

box,” according to tailoring and textile HOTOS HOTOS P P R

E K I

Bijoux. Bracelets trade in France for . P R .

that open with a five generations, W

DRA D D Phillips screw- so it made sense N N A R HA

driver , that he would fol- E C AR pendants in the low in his family’s ATH M

LE

shape of a saw and footsteps by launch- D N ILL A

a nail hook leather ing the Marchard W Y

, N N wrap bracelet are Drapier brand in A MP

among the inno- 2006. Originally O OSSIA C

E . P

vative offerings. known as more of . AT C T

There are also low- a tailored clothing K, C OUX,

er-priced pieces brand, the company J BI

made from brass. has since branched O AL CHU E N Design/aesthet- out into a full col- AT M RIGI

ic: The son of a lection that has O TL, M TS,

seamstress, the become known for D F

O, GEN

Montego Bay, its high-quality con- , N I L

Jamaica-based struction and cool, ME designer moved to elegant style. GI RE the U.S. when he Prices: Shirts retail

was 16 and soon discovered his flair for jewelry. He launched for $230 to $290, CIVIL RO, ASGARD, 120%

his line in 2009 and the collection is carried in Nordstrom as pants are around ,

Marchand HE

well as other retailers. $300 and jackets EEP

Drapier MP CA Prices: Most pieces retail for around $95 to $170. are $800. 10.D

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STRAW HATS Trend-Right Christys’ Some top fashion looks from the shows.

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BRAND, MIX MEDIA SUEDE BEADED BELTS PATCHWORK DUFFLE Perfecto Camp Hero Soulive Brand by Will Leather PERFECTO Schott Goods NYC HUSSEIN, OLAF HANCOCK, VETRO, DOM GRENOUILLE, DE CUISSE CHOCOLATE BROWN AND SILVER Tateossian CHRISTYS’,

INDIGO BLUE MITRA; W.R.K ROBERT BY

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CIVIL Sleepy SLOGANS Jones Cuisse de Grenouille HERO, CAMP MW8 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 24, 2014 Men’s Week Retailers Seek Unique Pieces for Spring {Continued from page MW1} Tim Ryan of Harleys in Shorewood, Wis., “We think fall is going to be great,” said tailoring. “That’s the big story,” he said. When he does find those special pieces, also said business has been strong “despite Ryan. “Ever since we moved our business The other big story for retailers was the Zack said, shoppers respond. “Our custom- the questionable weather in Milwaukee.” The in 2009, we’ve seen growth, and I don’t see relocation of several of the trade shows to ers are receptive. They’re not just looking “home run” of the season has been tailored that stopping.” one, more-convenient location. Agenda, for replacement clothing,” he said. clothing, which posted double-digit sales. Elliot Rabin of Peter Elliot in New York City MRket and Project all opted for the Jacob He said men today are “sportswear-driven,” “That’s good, because was also scouring the shows for “fun” items K. Javits Convention Center this time while and are looking for items such as soft sport it’s my biggest invest- — “things that’ll grab people and are stimulat- Liberty showed at Pier 94, a short trip up- coats that they can wear with jeans. “They’re ment,” he said, noting ing.” He bought knit bottle covers with wild pat- town. Capsule was the only holdout, remain- almost disposable coats,” he said, “something Retailers sought terns and sayings from North Carolina-based ing on the Lower East Side at Basketball City. around $495 that they can beat up. Then next footwear at Freaker as well as grooming products from Das The cooperation among the shows also season, I can sell them another.” the shows. Boom Industries of Los Angeles. brought up the eternal question of a men’s As a result, he was looking for soft tai- Dan Farrington, general merchandise fashion week in New York. For the past sever- loring pieces in that price range, along manager of men’s wear for Mitchells Family al years, the designers within the men’s wear with socks and other accessories — strong of Stores, admitted that current business is industry who hold runway shows are becom- sellers this year — which provide a nice “tough. We’re finding it harder to get traffic ing more vocal about the timing of the spring uptick to business. in. There are no more sweeping chang- shows. The September time frame, they say, is Zack said he was expecting a good es in men’s wear, so we need to invent right for women’s brands, but not men’s. As a fall, noting: “I think it’ll be OK if we can something new and find that great item. result, top men’s designers including Michael give them something comfortable and ca- We’re at the end of the slim-fit cycle, Kors, Rag & Bone and Michael Bastian have sual — we’ve been zip-mocked to death. which propelled us for a while. It’s all about opted to eschew New York Fashion Week to There’s a lot of good stuff out there. We’ve I BELIEVE BY NEXT the details now and we’re working harder show their lines during men’s market in July found a lot of nice textures and fabrics. I’m for growth.” when the retailers are in town and prepared spending my energy on finding new and JULY WE WILL FINALLY Nevertheless, Farrington said he was to place orders. Ralph Lauren will show his different things.” “ still “bullish on bottoms,” particularly slim- spring collection in early August. Craig DeLongy of John Craig in Winter SEE A UNIFIED MEN’S fits, flat-fronts, five-pockets, trim cargos and Tommy Fazio, president of Project, is Park, Fla., said business has been so good slim dress pants. And soft jackets from the at the forefront of the movement to create in his area that he’ll add two more stores FASHION WEEK.” market leader, Boglioli, and others, are “also a stand-alone men’s fashion week. “We’re to his stable this fall. A unit in Jupiter, Fla., — TOMMY FAZIO, PROJECT working, so we’re looking for more of that. trying to unite the marketplace,” he said of will open in October and a Bonita Springs, “Suits are trending better than jackets,” Project’s decision to relocate to the Javits Fla., outpost will open before Thanksgiving, that with suit sales on the uptick, dress shirts he continued, and he is “ready for a boom Center this time. Project also included the bringing his total number of units to eight. and furnishings have also improved. in knitwear.” popular and more-upscale Tents @ Project “Business has been very good,” he said. “We’re getting a younger guy shopping While there are challenges, Farrington platform in New York for the first time. “We had a great spring. Our inventories are with us,” Ryan said. “The Millennial shop- said he believes fall will be strong. “The mer- He said he was working with the city and in line and we’re real clean.” Standouts in- per is looking for trimmer fits from Hugo chandise looks beautiful, but it will take hard the Council of Fashion Designers of America clude made-to-measure, sport coats, knit- Boss, Luigi Bianchi, Zegna and others.” work and educating the customer,” he said. to create a separate men’s market week and wear and bottoms. Wovens, a category that At the shows, Ryan said he was searching Kevin Harter, vice president for men’s hopes it can become a reality by next sum- had been “great for years,” is now flat. At the for “something with some spark — the frost- fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s, said mer. “We’re working on how to market and shows, DeLongy was looking for footwear ing. We need to have items that put a differ- walking the shows in New York served as “a banner it now,” he said. and a woven shirt line that could reverse ent twist on our presentation.” Specifically, reinforcement of what we saw in Europe.” “This is where the buying power is,” he the downward trend. He especially liked his shopping list included woven shirts, sport He pointed to the “indigo prints that were said, “so why not see the collections here? Sebastian James’ lightweight cotton shirts, coats, Peter Millar’s Pick Stitch collection so relevant” and predicted that the “next big I believe by next July we will finally see a which he said were “unique.” and Riviera Red knit blazers. thing” will be sportswear that also works as unified men’s fashion week.”

Louis Leeman to Open N.Y. Store Man of THE WEEK ELLAR COLTRANE: C- by DAVID YI Louis Leeman and thing, the two want the space Erica Pelosini to maintain an air of intimacy. NEW YORK — There’s no “When you enter, we want it to place like New York. Which be a quiet place where men The uneven bangs work well with his youthful, is exactly why Louis Leeman can try on shoes, have whis- Piercings are cool unkempt look and help and his partner in life and key, champagne or a coffee,” when you’re 19 disguise his large forehead. business, Erica Pelosini, will she said. (are you listening, be setting up shop on Madison Furniture will be sourced Harrison Ford?) or Avenue this December. from Versailles, France, vintage a hip-hop artist, but The two, who co-own and pieces with a mix of marble, The thin, gold chain it doesn’t work well codesign their Paris-based lux- onyx, and velvet. “It will be rus- with the small pendant with the width ury footwear brand, will unveil their first store tic but luxurious,” said Leeman. adds a touch of much- of his nostrils. on the northeast corner of 67th Street. It will house the company’s entire collec- needed chicness. “New York is an international city and a lot tion, which ranges from statement-making of clientele come here to discover new trends shoes to more understated classic styles. The and research up-and-coming designers,” said price points will range from $495 to $1,395. The concept is good, The blazer doesn’t Pelosini. “Yes, Paris is very romantic and Milan The store will have four employees, includ- but it’s poorly executed. fit him terribly in is a city of fashion, but they’re places of old es- ing a manager and an on-site cobbler who will One should always stay the shoulders, it’s tablished brands. New York is always moving create custom shoes from specific leathers — in- away from Lycra-blended just the sleeves and we thought there was no other place in the cluding exotic materials like python — for a 20 T-shirts under any blazer. are too long world to open our first store than here.” percent upcharge. Custom shoes will take five to And the hint of a bare and exaggerate The store will be 525 square feet and will six weeks for delivery. midriff is OK if you’re a his strangely be designed by David Collins Studio, the same “I want our customer to be anyone from woman. Tuck it in and elongated arms. firm that created storefronts for Alexander a 16-year-old to a 55-year-old gentleman,” embrace cotton. McQueen and Jimmy Choo. The general aes- Pelosini said. “It’s anyone from Justin Bieber to thetic will be intimate, and feature a re-cre- the Upper East Side man in his Thirties who The wrinkled ation of Leeman and Pelosini’s Parisian apart- appreciates handmade shoes.” He obviously loves cotton chinos ment, complete with a fireplace in the center. Leeman and Pelosini launched their foot- his double-ring belt. clash with the “In Paris, we noticed that every apartment wear business in 2012. Since, they have collabo- He’s making sure the two other fabrics has a fireplace, no matter if the space is super- rated with Roberto Cavalli and are working with world sees it. in his outfit. He tiny,” said Pelosini, adding that more than any- Cesare Casadei’s first men’s collection, Maestro. should stick with the suit pants that match the Vineyard Vines Unveiling NYC Unit jacket. And a bit of never VINEYARD VINES is finally taking the children’s apparel and accessories. As with The star of “Boyhood,” killed anyone. plunge into Manhattan. many of its stores, the focal point of the Upper This fall, the Stamford, Conn.-based sports- East Side unit will be a transom and aft por- who grows up on-screen, wear brand will open its first unit in New York tion of a Jarrett Bay boat, which Vineyard is still in an awkward City, a 2,500-square-foot store at 1151 Third Vines will use as a check-out counter. The lo- There’s nothing wrong Avenue, at 67th Street. The store is expected cation will also feature a custom-painted out- phase when it comes to with a beat-up shoe, to be opened in early November. door mural, which will face 67th Street. it adds character. “We’ve had our sights set on a store in New Since January, Vineyard Vines has opened his style choices. And However, in this look, York for quite some time,” said Ian Murray, four stores and plans to open 11 additional units this ill-fitting ensemble it does nothing chief executive officer and cofounder with by yearend, including locations in Austin and to soften the blow. his brother Shep. “Having quit our jobs in Houston, Tex.; Alpharetta, Ga., and Charleston, does not alleviate his Manhattan 16 years ago to start Vineyard S.C. This year will mark the company’s most am- Vines, returning to New York is truly a cel- bitious year of retail expansion to date. There scrawny proportions. MAX/GC IMAGES SCHLEIN/STAR PATRICIA ebration of our hard work and success.” are currently 45 stores around the country.

The store will carry men’s, women’s and — JEAN E. PALMIERI PHOTO BY