NOVEMBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO

RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

Fashion, art and traditions ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY MCARTHURGLEN LA REGGIA DESIGNER OUTLET Designer brands at 35-70% less

SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MUSEUMS&ATTRACTIONS FOR THE LABEL LOVERS DESIGNER BRANDS AT 35-70% LESS. ALL YEAR ROUND.

McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise Daily shuttle bus service from Naples

GL0939_4_AW15_La Reggia_Press_Where Naples FP_207x277mm_AW.indd 1 13/10/2015 11:41

Client -- McAGMcAG TypeType AreaArea -- N/AN/A Initials -- SPSP Outlet -- LaLa ReggiaReggia BleedBleed -- 55 mmmm Scale -- 100100 Ad Type -- PressPress Date -- 13–10–201513–10–2015 Effective DPI -- +300+300 PublicationPublication -- WhereWhere NaplesNaples FileFile NameName -- GL0939_4_AW15_La GL0939_4_AW15_La Reggia_Press_Where Reggia_Press_Where Naples Naples FP_207x277mm_AW FP_207x277mm_AW SizeSize -- 207x277mm207x277mm 11.15 CONTENTS

The Plan The Guide Let's get started The best of Naples, Coast & 41 Islands 2 Editor's Note

4 Hot Dates 48 20 SHOPPING The hottest dates in November to make your stay in Naples an Major shopping areas and our unforgettable experience choice of the best specialty stores

32 DINING

The top restaurants and pizzerias recommended by Where

41 ENTERTAINMENT

How to enjoy your stay in Naples and on the Coast & Islands 64 My perfect day Rosanna Marziale MUSEUMS & Interview with the Chef of Le 48 ATTRACTIONS Colonne restaurant in Caserta Main museum attractions and must-see exhibitions in Naples Also Inside 14 and on the Coast & Islands 46 The Phlegrean Area by night 54 OUT OF TOWN Unmissable night time experience: from the thermal Unmissable out-of-town sights: baths to nightspots right up welcome to Sannio guided tours of Solfatara and Rione Terra 58 ESSENTIALS

54 Out of town Tips for getting around in In discovery of Caserta. From Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, The Reggia to the Belvedere of Oplonti and on the San Leucio passing through the Coast&Islands streets of Casertavecchia MAP PAGE 62

Where Now

10 THE CULT OF THE DEAD 19 COFFEE WITH A meld of the sacred and the Interview with Ciro Cacciola, profane, curiosities and Neapolitan General Manager of Mav, the ON THE COVER Cover image by La Reggia traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month Virtual Archaeological Museum of Designer Outlet Marcianise 14 NAPLES AND ITS CASTELS Herculaneum STAY IN TOUCH A trip amist towers, ancient 38 DINING legends, architectural treasures and A trip in discovery of the best sweet W www.wherenaples.com breathtaking views, in discovery of wines of the region. The most Like us on facebook.com/ the symbols of the city representative labels of Campania wherenaples MASCHIO ANGOINO PH RITA CHILIBERTI MASCHIO ANGOINO PH RITA

wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples www.wheretraveler.com 1 EXPO | CAMPANIA FOOD FOR THE SOUL WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS PROJECT IS YOU’LL SEE US LIKE THIS! THE PHOTOS MOST VIEWED BY NEWSPAPERS WORLDWIDE ENDORSED BY

WHERE NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS published by: IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL What does happiness Via Agostino Depretis, 51 80133 Napoli T/Fax: 081 6174239 www.wherenaples.com sound like? Campania, COMUNE DI CAPRI PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF German ensemble Liquid Penguin records the joyful sounds of Naples with ‘FeliCittà’ the culinary cradle Serena Altieri of Italy ([email protected]) EDITORIAL (IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL)

EDITORIAL COORDINATION COMUNE DI ERCOLANO Ilaria Puglia ([email protected])

EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT Carey Bernitz

DESIGNER Elizabeth Jeanette Deleacaes

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS At Expo Milano, this region, symbolically associated with the Mediterranean Monica Piscitelli, Ilaria Puglia. Diet, the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, presented its best HOTEL PR SERVICES Valeria Fusco gastronomic offerings, demonstrating a renewed interest for environmental ([email protected]) control and monitoring. A region that offers a variety of high-quality PRINTED BY A.TETI S.R.L. organic agricultural products unequalled in Italy, boasting tracts of land, Via E. Gianturco, 31/C - 80146 Napoli www.tipteti.com Visit www.wherenaples.com 97% of which are clean, untainted and environmentally protected. It was, to listen to a preview of the REG.TRIB. NAPOLI No. 7, 7 FEBRUARY 2014 joyful sounds of Naples. in fact, at Expo that the President of the Regione Campania, Vincenzo De WHERE NAPLES IS DISTRIBUTED FREE AT TOP Luca, reminded us that Campania ranks number one in Italy in terms of HOTELS AND AT SEVERAL SELECT LOCATIONS. environmental control and monitoring systems. Where® is also published in Milan by Where Italia “We felt the need to re-launch the products of Campania on a large scale by srl and in Rome by Tourist Media srl raising awareness about their sustainability and artisanal excellence which MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS deserves to be promoted. A perfect MVP EXECUTIVE example is Gragnano pasta which is CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III not only the best in the world but PRESIDENT AND CEO An acoustic documentary to immortalize the words and associate with happiness. The interviewers then recorded also a true work of art, like the silk William S. Morris IV sounds that the Neapolitan people associate with the idea the respondents’ answers . MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE produced in San Leucio”. This explains Chris Manning of joy, wellbeing and peace. Director Katharina Bihler The German duo not only interviewed both citizens why at Expo Campania’s claim was and composer Stefan Scheib, of German ensemble and institutions but also travelled around the outskirts Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the Liquid Penquin, achieved this feat with ‘FeliCittà’ an of the centre recording the most disparate and typical “Food for the soul”. accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in initiative promoted by the Goethe Institut as part of the sounds: from the sound of the waves on the Lungomare In Campania you can savour authentic, part is strictly prohibited. ‘Cantiere Felicità’ project. to the silence of the Certosa, from the music played at On account of not being able to source the authors of the photos published, our controlled products in a context that publishing company is at the disposition of anyone wishing to contact it. For roughly two weeks, in September the Liquid the Conservatory of San Pietro a Majella to the sound aims to promote a philosophy of life Penguin travelled around Naples with their of Caserta Vecchia right up to that of Solfatara. In short, designed not only to foster a healthy Glückscontainer, a ‘happiness confessional’, resembling they recorded the joyful voice of Naples. personal lifestyle but also improve a photo booth. Random citizens were stopped and asked The Liquid Penguin have worked since 1996 in the field collective wellbeing. to step inside to tell the pair about the sounds that they of contemporary music and sound art.

Those of you wishing to publish your favourite photo of Naples should write to us either at [email protected] wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples or on facebook.com/wherenaples and we’ll publish it.

2 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 3 WHERE NOW | CALENDAR

NOVEMBER HOT DATES The hottest dates in November chosen by Where to make your stay in Naples and on the Coast and Islands a truly unforgettable experience!

FROM NOVEMBER UNTIL FEBRUARY

I AM NOT I ▲Personal exhibition by Boris SATURDAY AND SUNDAY Mikhailov, one of UNTIL FEBRUARY 13-1 the leading and most celebrated artists to have emerged from PAINTING ACTIONISM, the former Soviet Union. In his photography EXCESS AND 21-22 Mikhailov deals with social issues, analysing 28 SENSUALITY FABIO LUISI the profound and traumatic changes that ◄ The exhibition shows the genesis, ► Will conduct soprano Julia Kelter and have invested, and continue to invest his development and meaning of action painting in contralto Patricia Bardon accompanied country, the Ukraine and, by transposition, relation to the Orgien Mysterien Theatre. It takes by the Orchestra and Chorus of the San contemporary identity itself. In particular, its inspiration from a pivotal statement made by Carlo Opera House. Maestro Luisi will the exhibition explores the themes of social the artist in 1964: “My action painting is the visible lead the orchestra and singers in Mahler’s oppression, poverty, abandonment and grammar of my theatre of action on the surface of a Symphony No. 2 in C minor ‘Resurrection’. solitude. canvas”. On display eighty-eight Schuttbilder taken Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. from ten different painting actions. T: 0817972331 T: 08119313016 Museo Hermann Nitsch. Vico Lungo Pontecorvo, 29/d, www.teatrosancarlo.it www.madrenapoli.it Naples. T: 0815641655

BORIS MIKHAILOV, BY THE GROUND. COURTESY THE ARTIST BY THE GROUND. COURTESY BORIS MIKHAILOV, MUSEO NITSCH ACTIONISM, EXCESS AND SENSUALITY, PAINTING NAPOLI 2014 - 2016©A. BENESTANTE www.museonitsch.org

4 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 5 Search the full Calendar at wherenaples.com WHERE NOW | CALENDAR NOVEMBER

UNTIL DECEMBER THEATRE: “One flew over the cuckoo’s nest”, WHAT'S ON FROM FRIDAY 1 by Dale Wasserman. Teatro Bellini, Naples TO SUNDAY ART: “Pompeii and Europe”. Museo SPORT 2 Archeologico di Napoli e Scavi di Pompei FOOTBALL OPERA: “La Traviata”, by Giuseppe Verdi. Italian Championship A Series Directed by Ferzan Ozpetek. Teatro San Carlo, 3 Naples Napoli vs Udinese > 7 November 19 ART: “Capri The Island of Art”, a project in Napoli vs Inter > 21 November 6-8 GILBERTO ZORIO discovery of the Island through art. Capri Stadio San Paolo. Piazzale Tecchio, Napoli. T: 0812395623 4 ► Personal exhibition by Biella- www.sscnapoli.it THEATRE: “La musica provata”, by Erri De Luca. born artist Gilberto Zorio, a BASKETBALL 5 Music by S. Di Battista. Teatro Bellini, Naples protagonist of the so-called ‘Poor National Basketball League A2 Gold Series FAIRS: “Creattiva”, the Italian exhibition of Givova Napoli vs Il Globo Isernia > 1 November Art’ movement, established in 6 manual art. Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples Italy in the mid-sixties. Givova Napoli vs S. Michele Maddaloni > 15 November MUSIC: “Se amore è”. Sal da Vinci in concert. Givova Napoli vs Planet Basket Catanzaro > 29 November Galleria Lia Rumma. 7 Teatro Cilea, Naples PalaBarbuto. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. T: 0817622198 Via Vannella Gaetani, 12, Naples. PERFORMANCE: “Tableaux Vivants from www.azzurronapolibasket.com T: 08119812354 8 Caravaggio”. Museo Diocesano, Naples WATER POLO CREATTIVA www.liarumma.it A1 Series ▲ The Italian exhibition of manual arts. Creattiva is not a simple showcase of products, but it is ART: “Last relic”. Exhibition by Laura Cristinzio. 9 Museo Archeologico, Naples Acquachiara vs C.C. Ortigia > 4 November a true meeting point for thousands of visitors who want to discover new trends in the world of C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Sori > 7 November creativity and get in touch with exhibitors, operators, manufactures and distributors of several SATURDAY ART: “Pompeo Carafa, a refined designer for 10 royal tables”. Museo di San Martino, Naples Acquachiara vs Carisa R.N. Savoia > 13 November different materials. Aditionally, visitors can take part at courses and demonstrations proposed C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Bogliasco > 20 November during the weekend by exhibitors at their stands. CONCERTO ANNI ART: “The Vertebra Oracle”. Exhibition by Acquachiara vs Pallanuoto Trieste > 28 November 11 Rebecca Horn. Studio Trisorio, Naples 6-8 November. From 10am to 8pm. Ticket € 7,00 80 E NON SOLO - A Piscina Scandone. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. Mostra d’Oltremare. Viale Kennedy, 54, Naples www.fieracreattiva.it TRIBUTE TO THE PHOTOGRAPHY: “20 Years with Pino”. T: 0815702636 12 Exhibition for Pino Daniele. Pan, Naples www.federnuoto.it 21 EIGHTIES… BUT NOT ART: “Desiderata (in media res)”. Solo UNTIL JANUARY ONLY exhibition by Marc Leckey. Museo Madre, 13 Naples ◄ Neapolitan singer Nino D’Angelo takes DESIDERATA THEATRE: “Henry IV”, by Luigi Pirandello. audiences on a trip down memory lane with 14 Teatro Bellini, Naples (IN MEDIA RES) his first hits which saw his meteoric rise to ► The first retrospective fame during the Eighties both in Italy and ART: “The Voice”. Installation by Marco 15 Bagnoli. Museo Madre, Naples and the first personal abroad. On stage, D’Angelo is accompanied by 18 exhibition dedicated to a talented group of musicians including Massimo 16 ART: “Italy at war”. Archivio di Stato, Salerno British artist Mark Leckey, 2008 winner of Gargiulo (piano and keyboard), Guido Russo (bass), the prestigious ‘Turner Prize’ and ‘Central Agostino Mennella (drums), Franco Ponzo (guitar), ART: “Axer/Désaxer”. Site-specific work by 17 Daniel Buren. Museo Madre, Naples Art Award’. The exhibition ‘Desiderata Mimmo Langella (electric guitar) and vocalist Milly (in media res)’ presents an excursus of Alcolese. THEATRE: “Il fu Mattia Pascal” by L. Pirandello, 18 starring Tato Russo. Teatro Augusteo, Naples Leckey’s work, amidst new and older Palapartenope. Via Barbagallo, 115, Naples. T: 0815700008 pieces: sculptural works, installations, www.palapartenope.it ART: “La ville morte”. Exhibition by Victor performance and videos. Leckey’s artistic 19 Blanc. Fondazione Foucault, Naples research falls outside the specific field PERFORMANCE: Scenes from an archive. of art, constantly moving towards the 20 Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli, Naples boundary between art and everyday life. MUSIC: Nino D’Angelo in concert. A tribute to the Eighties but not only. Palapartenope, Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. 21 UNTIL Naples T: 08119313016 MUSIC: Fabio Luisi conducts the San Carlo JULY www.madrenapoli.it 22 Orchestra. Teatro San Carlo, Naples ART: “The Uffizi at Casal di Principe”. Casal di 23 Principe, Caserta LUDOVICO EINAUDI UNTIL FRIDAY Two and a half years after the success of his internationally ART: “I am not I”. personal exhibition by Boris acclaimed ‘In a Time Lapse’, Ludovico Einaudi has 24 Mikhailov. Museo Madre, Naples 4 ART: Personal exhibition by Gilberto Zorio. released his new album, “Elements”. Featuring 12 tracks, AXER/DÉSAXER the album sees the interweaving of piano, strings, 25 Galleria Lia Rumma, Naples ▲ Site-specific work by French artist Daniel percussion and electronics. Simultaneously exhilarating 13 MUSICAL: “The Betrothed”. Palapartenope, Buren. A large-scale commission conceived and transcendent, Einaudi’s album boasts important 26 Naples especially for the spaces of a museum: collaborations including that of Dutch String Ensemble THE LAST RELIC MUSIC: Pinchas Zukerman conducts Amanda using brightly surfaces, mirrors and stripes, Amsterdam Sinfonietta, Berlin-born 27 Forsyth on the cello. Teatro San Carlo, Naples ▲ The exhibition by Laura Cristinzio offers a reimaging of the “Villa di Poppea” in Oplontis, the hallmark feature of his work, the artist electronic musician Robert Lippok and FAIRS: “Barter and Second-hand Goods Fair”. evocatively recreating its spaces and illusionary perspectives, frescoes and mosaics. manages to blur the lines between the Brazilian percussionist Mauro Refosco. MONDAY 28 Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples The exhibition enjoys the patronage of the Regional Council of Campania, the City of Naples interior and exterior spaces of the museum. Teatro Augusteo. Piazzetta Duca ART: “Painting actionism, excess and and the University of Naples Federico II and involving the Department of Culture and Tourism Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples. d’Aosta, 263, Naples. T: 081414243 29 sensualità”. Museo Hermann Nitsch, Naples of the City of Naples. T: 08119313016 www.teatroaugusteo.it MUSIC: Ludovico Einaudi in concert. Teatro Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples www.ultimoreperto.it www.madrenapoli.it 30 30 Augusteo, Naples 6 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 7

WHERE NOW | CALENDAR WHERE NOW | PERFORMANCE UNMISSABLE EXHIBITION

UNTIL MAY ITALY AT WAR ► An exhibition featuring historical documents and private papers explores Italy’s entry into the war, seen from the perspective of the people of Salerno: general mobilization, the requisition of schools, the collection of clothes and basic supplies for the first recruits as well as a collection of letters written by soldiers stationed at the front and by prisoners of war captured in the province. From 8am to 6.30pm; Saturdays from 8am to 1pm Archivio di Stato di Salerno. Piazza Abate Conforti, 7, Salerno. T: 089225044

UNTIL JANUARY 17

20 YEARS WITH PINO (ADDOVE) ▲ An exhibition that traces the private and artistic life of Neapolitan singer/songwriter Pino Daniele from 1990 to 2009, the most proliferous period in the career of the musician who died in January 2015. On display, never- seen-before material including 180 photographs and a 4-hour video shot by Alessandro d’Urso. Pan, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli. via dei Mille, 60, Naples. T: 0817958605 Caravaggio www.palazzoartinapoli.net

live stage show of enormous visual impact. Twenty three canvases inspired by Tableaux Vivants the work of Caravaggio come to life on stage, right before your eyes, using the "tableaux vivants" technique. Using the most basic elements (fabrics of various THURSDAY from Caravaggio colours and textures and everyday objects), the actors ‘compose’ the 23 canvases Ain front of the audience. Once constructed, the painting creates the scene as it would have AND FRIDAY Eight actors bring Caravaggio’s appeared in the artist’s studio. Within a matter of seconds, costumes and drapery are expertly UNTIL FEBRUARY masterpieces to life transformed by the actors who each take on the role of model, set designer, costume designer 26-27 and props manager. The action is immobilized as if illuminated by one lone flash of light, one THE VOICE ‘perfect’ gesture brings to life the heart of the painting. Impeccable iconographic precision, the ▲ Installation by Marco Bagnoli. ‘La Voce. Nel giallo faremo PINCHAS ZUKERMAN expressive force of bodies and faces illuminated by a lateral beam of light, fully bring out the una scala o due al bianco invisibile” is an ouevre that ▲ Violinist and conductor Pinchas Zukerman conducts his ‘poetry of reality’, the element that distinguishes the works of Michelangelo da Caravaggio. represents a stairway that leads from the courtyard of the wife, Amanda Forsyth, on the cello. The renowned couple 29 museum, crossing over its roof and reaching all the way up will perform music by Tchaikovsky and Herbert. Chorus 8 and 22 November; 13 and 17 December. At 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30am. into the sky. The sound of a ‘voice’, describing the menu of a typical Neapolitan and Orchestra of the San Carlo Opera House. Choir master: >> www.museodiocesanonapoli.com meal, emanates from an ampoule on its top. Marco Faelli. >> Museo Diocesano, Largo Donnaregina, Naples. T: 0815571365 Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79. T: 08119313016 Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 7972331 www.madrenapoli.it www.teatrosancarlo.it

8 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 9 WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS

Installation by Rebecca Horn, piazza Plebiscito, Naples

Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, Naples San Pietro ad Aram, Naples

n Naples, where myth, legend and mystery blend together, the them. This generally happens during a dream as a go-between between the living and the between via Foria and the heart of Capodimonte; cult of the dead has assumed a picturesque, fairytale-like aura. A when the deceased appears in person and gives dead. In fact, the lost soul appears in a dream the Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, on the The cult of the walk down the busiest, narrowest streets in the heart of the city precise indications which are then interpreted and shows where, amidst piles of bones, his/ Upper Decumanus, in today’s via dei Tribunali and is enough to understand the depth of people’s commitment and using the so-called “Smorfia”, a typical Neapolitan her bodily remains lie. The faithful then goes to the Basilica of San Pietro ad Aram, in a side-street devotion. There are tabernacles and shrines protected by glass book which associates words with numbers, the designated cemetery, adopts the skull of the of corso Umberto, just behind piazza Garibaldi. In dead cases and adorned with fresh flowers and eternal lights. They are enabling dreams to be transformed into dead person (known as the “capuzzella”) and all three places you can find dozens and dozens Iembellished by rosaries, images of the Virgin, statues with agonized numbers so that people can play the lottery. builds a so-called “scarabattolo”, a sort of display of skulls of the late lamented to “adopt”. SIGHTSEEING A meld of the sacred expressions surrounded by flames – the so-called “souls of Purgatory” – The case of the cult of the “souls of Purgatory” cabinet, like a rudimentary altar, that will act as a Rebecca Horn drew inspiration from the and the profane, curiosities and Neapolitan photos of the deceased, votive candles and flowers. is different: this time, it is not the deceased who home for the skull. He/she then polishes the skull Fontanelle Cemetery to make the installation In Naples, the faithful attribute the Dead and “souls of Purgatory ” with appear to their loved ones in dreams but the and displays it for everyone to see. The devotee commissioned in 2002. traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month. From the functions that the Catholic religion only ascribes to saints, namely the “souls of Purgatory”, i.e. the deceased devoid of then returns periodically to visit the lost soul who, The work, entitled “Spiriti di Madreperla”, was souls in Purgatory to culinary customs power of answering prayers and visiting the world of the living when family, abandoned souls who have never had a thanks to his/her devotion, will finally be able exhibited in Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples: it the mood so moves them. dignified burial and are, therefore, amassed in to “cross over”. The day chosen for visits to dead consisted of 333 bronze skulls sunk into the However, praying for the souls of the dead is not a one-sided affair. common ossuaries. souls is Monday and the month dedicated to cobblestones and 77 neon angels’ halos hanging Though prayers are said for their souls, benefits of a practical nature are They ask people to pray for them and look after them is November. above the heads of passersby, thus serving as a asked for in return: e.g. finding a husband, a job, or help with winning them so that they can leave Purgatory (the world The Neapolitan cult of the “capuzzelle” is stark contrast to the ghostly skulls. According to the lottery. Obviously, the recently departed cannot talk but will, of the living) to reach their final destination concentrated in three places: the Fontanelle Horn, it was this contrast that embodied the real nonetheless, find a way of getting in touch with the person calling upon (hell or heaven). In this case too, dreams act Cemetery, in the heart of the Rione Sanità district, meaning of her work.

10 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 11 WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS

Today, several of those skulls are a part of another during a visit to Naples, the German artist visited installation, “Spirits”, on permanent display at the a couple of octagenarians at their home in vico Museo Madre in Naples. Lammatari, in the Sanità district. Here, the individually lit “capuzzelle” are hung It was here that she learnt about the cult of the on the walls, each with its own mobile mirror souls of Purgatory, nameless, abandoned souls in which visitors can see their reflections. The whose skulls are amassed at the Fontanelle whole is further enhanced by the solemn voice Cemetery where the devout go to adopt a skull of musician Hayden Danyl Chisholm. Horn’s (capuzzella), looking after it, polishing it and intention is to give visitors the idea of a life that praying for its soul. She was so awed by this even death cannot end, because it becomes a unique Neapolitan tradition that she decided part of eternity. to create her “Spiriti di madreperla” masterpiece The story of how the “capuzzelle” installation (Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples www. came about is extremely intriguing. In 2002, madrenapoli.it).

Culinary traditions of the Day of the Dead ‘All Souls’ day amidst tantalizing specialities and old beliefs: the most popular foods and their ritualistic meanings. A meld of tradition and good food

CHICKPEAS In olden days, on 2 November, chickpeas were offered to the souls of the dead so that they could satiate their hunger before returning to the other world. Chickpea soup is a typical dish NOUGAT OF THE DEAD of Neapolitan tradition associated with In keeping with Neapolitan tradition, on 2 November, ‘All Souls day, the locals prepare a the dead. special sweet treat known at the nougat of the dead. It is softer than most and, under a layer of dark chocolate, it hides a heart of chocolate and hazelnuts.

BROAD BEANS WHEAT PUMPKIN Since time immemorial, broad beans A symbol of life and fertility, when A symbol of fertility dating as far back were the food dedicated to the dead combined with mulled wine, as Greek and Latin times, pumpkin is and were served as the main course pomegranate seeds, cinnamon, walnuts used to ward off evil spirits. A popular at funeral banquets. Their long stalks, and sugar, this delicacy is part of the dish, especially in November, it pairs which penetrate the soil deep down, ritual celebrations in Campania and, in beautifully with pasta but can also be were believed to be able to put the general, in Southern Italy associated grilled and dressed with vinegar and living in touch with the dead. with the Day of the Dead. parsley.

12 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 WHERE NOW | NAPLES EXPERIENCE

Castel Nuovo, Maschio Angioino Naples and its

The richest and best-preserved castles in Naples. castles A trip amidst towers, ancient legends, architectural treasures and breathtaking views, in discovery of the symbols of the city

Castel dell'Ovo

here are seven castles in the CASTEL DELL’OVO Vesuvius silhouetted in the background. The little CASTEL NUOVO, MASCHIO ANGIOINO CASTEL SANT’ELMO CASTELLO DEL CARMINE city: Castel Nuovo, also known The oldest in the city, Castel dell’Ovo is a landmark lanes beneath the thick walls are lined with the Another symbol of Naples, Castel Nuovo looms The highest fortress in the city, it stands on the Standing in piazza Mercato, all that remains of the as Maschio Angioino, Castel attraction due to its position and architecture. The houses of Borgo Marinaro, a former fisherman’s majestically in piazza Municipio. Commissioned hill of Vomero, in a strategic position. Of Norman Castello del Carmine, built in 1382 by Charles III of Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, castle stands on the tiny isle of Megaride where, haunt where quaint lanes are now lined with by Charles I of Anjou in 1266 when he moved the origin, it boasts several magnificent panoramic Durazzo, is the Spinella Tower and a stretch of the Castel dell’Ovo, Castello del according to legend, the siren Pantenope washed pleasant bars and pizzerias. capital of the Kingdom from Palermo to Naples, terraces: the city lies at its foot showing itself in Aragonese wall flanking it. Carmine, the one in Nisida ashore. Its name, the Egg Castle, derives from an the castle owes its current architecture to the all of its splendour, with the profile of Vesuvius andT the fortress of Vigliena. The first four are the ancient legend according to which the poet Virgil CASTEL CAPUANO Aragonese sovereigns. The majestic marble portal acting as a backdrop to the thick maze of the CASTELLO DI NISIDA most representative not only on account of their placed an egg under its foundations, a magical Built in the 12th century by the Normans, it takes at its entrance was commissioned by Alfonso of city’s narrow streets. It is only after admiring Dating back to the 16th century, the Castello historical backgrounds but also because they are egg on which the destiny of the city is thought its name from the nearby gate Porta Capuano, Aragon to celebrate the victories of his dynasty. Naples like this, from above, that you can say that di Nisida was first a hospice for those suffering better preserved. to hang. On passing through its entrance, visitors one of the many gates in the city, leading to Inside, the stark stone Hall of the Barons is named you have truly seen it. Following the Neapolitan from the plague during the terrible epidemic will have the feeling of having entered another Capua. It is the second oldest castle in Naples after the barons arrested and slaughtered here Revolution of 1799, it became the prison of the of 1626 and subsequently a prison for political dimension, due to the light the filters through the and also one of the most significant examples for having plotted against him. Legend has it most important protagonists of the Revolution, prisoners. Today, it houses the city’s juvenile Those of you wishing to publish your apertures overlooking the sea. of Norman architecture. Over the years, it has that the prisoners of Castel Nuovo disappeared including Giustino Fortunato and Luisa Sanfelice: prison. Little remains of the Fortezza di Vigliena in favourite photo of Naples should write Breathtaking views can be enjoyed from its housed all the city’s courts of justice: the ‘Salone mysteriously because they were thrown into the according to legend, terrifying screams could be the neighbourhood of San Giovanni a Teduccio, to us either at [email protected] panoramic terrace: on the one side the sea and, dei Busti’ hosts all the busts of the princes of the ditch surrounding the castle where they were fed heard emanating from its underground passages. partially destroyed during the revolution of 1799. or on facebook.com/wherenaples on the other, the city with the Bay of Naples and Forum of Naples. to an enormous African crocodile. Today it is a museum that is well worth a visit. and we’ll publish it. PH. RITA CHILIBERTI CHILIBERTI PH. RITA PH. SERENA ALTIERI

14 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | IN DISCOVERY OF CAMPANIA

Piazza G.B. Manni

he province of Benevento, bordering to the South Piovene described it as follows : "...a complete the art of ceramic-making with the nearby picturesque area whose distinguishing features with Irpinia, to the West with Casertano, to the North reconstruction, in true Baroque style, capable of commune of San Lorenzello. Its historic centre include its lovely medieval town, rolling hills Welcome to with Molise and to the East with Puglia, has such surprising even the most discerning visitors”. The boasts two churches, the Church of San Lorenzo, dotted with pine and oak woods but, above all, unique morphological, historical and anthropological archaeological recovery of its medieval centre, which houses the wooden sculpture of the town’s vast stretches of vineyards and olive groves. characteristics that for a moment, following the Unification known as the ‘Medieval Pompeii’, is currently in patron saint, and the Church of the Congregazione The historical centre, built up around the Sannio of Italy, there was talk of actually creating a separate progress. Awarded Orange Flag certification by della Sanità, rich in exquisite ceramic works of castle, though partly abandoned following the region:T the Sannio. Where has chosen five communes to accompany you in Touring Club Italiano and boasting ‘Città dell’olio’ art including a majolica tympanum by Antonio earthquake of 1980, still retains several medieval In discovery of the province of Benevento, discovery of a truly fascinating area. (‘City of Oil’) designation, Cerreto is renowned Giustinianei. Along the via Regia, on the banks attractions of note. The area is home to a number amidst local curiosities, medieval history, Pietraroja, whose name derives from the French ‘pierre rouge’ (red stone) for its age-old ceramic-making tradition which of the river Titerno, we find the Park of San of lovely small Baroque churches. monuments and tourist attractions. Five present in the area, is a mountain commune surrounded by woods flourished following the earthquake of 1688 when Sebastiano, home to the City of Dinosaurs, Lastly, we recommend pushing farther north to communes chosen by Where to make your trip abounding in natural springs. Although its most important monument is the reconstruction of the town attracted scores an educational park stretching over roughly the picturesque village of Cusano Mutri, whose the Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta, another unmissable of Neapolitan potters who, absolved from paying one hectare where visitors can admire fifteen typically medieval historical centre retains all of memorable attraction is its Geo-Paleontological Park, with its museum, the Paleolabo, taxes, combined their experience with that of reproductions of fiberglass dinosaurs located in its original old-world charm intact with its narrow housing fossil finds of considerable note, including Ciro, the first baby local potters to give life to a new, more opulent, evocative natural surroundings. streets, porticoes and houses boasting elaborately dinosaur in Italy, several of whose internal organs are still intact. Baroque-style porcelain. Guardia Sanframondi owes its name to the stone-worked portals and windows. For more info Cerreto Sannita, an outpost of Sannio Pentro (a Roman bridge known to Since that time, the ceramics of Cerreto have Sanframondo family who built an imposing The largest church in the commune is the Church www.comune.cerretosannita.bn.it www.comune.cusanomutri.bn.it the locals as ‘Annibale’ can still be seen here today together with a podium of become highly sought-after objects. In fact, medieval castle here. Today, the castle serves as the of San Giovanni Battista whose precious shrine www.comunesanlorenzello.it the only Sannite Temple in Campania), is identified as a ‘planned community’ several of the figurines displayed in the manger town’s cultural hub and is used for performances, contains a thorn from the woven crown of thorns www.comuneguardiasanframondi.gov.it www.comune.pietraroja.bn.it on account of its regular urban structure. Its reconstruction was, in fact, of the Reggia di Caserta, were actually crafted by film screenings, art and photographic exhibitions. placed on the head of Jesus during the events based on a project by the Carafa Counts following the earthquake of 1688 master potters from Cerreto. The commune, renowned, above all, for its noble leading up to his Crucifixion. which razed the town to the ground. Italian writer and journalist Guido For more than three centuries, Cerreto has shared wines produced by the Guardiense winery, is a

16 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 17 [ MADE IN NAPLES] Special thanks to GUGLIELMO CAMPAJOLA owner of Coffee with La Caffettiera

What is the annual influx of visitors to What are the latest attractions at Mav? Mav? In 2015, we introduced 7 new installations In 2014, we registered more than 70,000 regarding the Villa of the Papyri, an visits to the site of Herculaneum, plus interactive map of Herculaneum and a another 120,000 visitors to exhibitions machine that delivers fragrances. organized abroad. 2015 has seen an increase Future projects? in this trend: the exhibition held in Warsaw, Since 2010, we have been working on the which ended last month, registered an influx MAV ON TOUR project. An itinerant museum of more than 100,000 visitors. project on Pompeii and Herculaneum, which will travel around the world. We have staged exhibitions in Barcelona, Chile, Madrid and Warsaw. We have participated in various exhibitions in collaboration with

Ciro Cacciola

The Museum’s objective is to offer visitors The General Manager of Mav, a chance to relive the everyday lives of the the Virtual Archaeological inhabitants of the cities destroyed by the Museum of Herculaneum, eruption of 79 A.D. In what way? the first and only virtual museum devoted to Visitors are treated to a fully immersive the British Museum in London and with the archaeology and, in particular experience involving a tour, interactive maps, Kunst Foundation in Hamburg. We are also sensorial effects and sounds. They can even to the archaeological finds preparing an exhibition which is scheduled relive the earthquake that accompanied the of Vesuvius to travel to France in 2016. terrible explosion of Vesuvius during the eruption of 79 A.D.

What makes MAV’s offer so unique?

Thanks to the use of avant-garde reconstruction is created with technology, MAV the help of archaeologists, enables visitors architects, 3D designers to learn about and historians who research the archaeological the documents and scientific heritage of the texts available to validate the Vesuvian area. Each hypothesis of a reconstruction.

www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM Corso Umberto I, 234. T: 081287962 www. NAPLES francescomartone.it LA BANCARELLINA – Dresses children aged ACCESSORIES 0-6 with the latest creations by Mini Man, Le Sizing E&G CAPPELLI – The beauty of a tie lies in Guignol and Startrite. Open Mon-Sat 10am- superior-quality craftsmanship, especially 2pm and 4pm-8pm – via Carducci, 39/41 – T: when the fabric used is pure silk. Open Mon- 081.401695 Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via OONA L’OURSE – Sartorial creations for Shoes Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 – T: 081.400166 children aged 0-4. Over the years, the age GEMELLI DA POLSO – Love and passion for bracket was extended to 12-year-olds. Open EUR US UK the working of precious stones. Collections Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat inspired by nature, including the Isle of 10am-1,30pm – www.oonalourse.it – via Carlo WOMEN Capri. Open only by appointment - www. Poerio, 6 – T: 081.7644745 gemellidapolso.it – Piazza Amedeo, 16/I – T: SCIUSCIA’ – Leader in clothing for children and 36 5 3 081.403512 boys aged 0–18. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm 37 6 4 MARIO PORTOLANO – Leather gloves and 4.30pm-8pm - www.sciuscianapoli.it – via handmade. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Vittoria Colonna, 3 – T: 081.4104397 38 7 5 4.30pm-8pm - www.marioportolano.it – via SIOLA – A wide choice of clothing and Chiaia, 140/141 – T: 081.418354 39 8 6 accessories for infants and children up to the PISTOLA – For more than a century, Pistola has age of 10. Its beautiful window displays, where 41 9 7 been manufacturing handmade gloves for no detail has been left to chance, and its every occasion. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm charming interior, are a joy to behold. Open 42 10 8 and 4.30pm-8pm – via S. Caterina a Chiaia, 12 Mon-Sat from 9am-8.15pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm; SPAZIO C – An high-class boutique selling 5pm-8pm – Via Chiaia, 11 – T: 081415036 www. MEN clothing and accessories. Open Mon-Sat siola.it 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. 41 8 7 spazioc.net - via Bisignano, 60 – T: 081.401005 42 9 8 ULTURALE CRAVATTE – A tie should be CLOTHING – MEN & expressive, stylish and memorable – in short, WOMEN 43 10 9 beautiful. Open Tue-Fri 10am-7,30pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - www.ulturalecravatte.it – via ALESSIO VISONE – She creates exclusive 45 11 10 Carlo Poerio, 115 – T: 081.2481151 styles right before your eyes. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – via dei Mille, 1 – T: 46 12 11 081.421390 47 13 12 BOOKS & MAGAZINES AMINA RUBINACCI – Her oyster-style sweater has made her famous throughout the world ANTICA LIBRERIA REGINA – Established as an and is available in the classic colours of antique bookseller in the 19th century, over burgundy, prune, light blue, white, grey or the years it has updated its collection with a black. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri Clothes number of modern works and publications. 4pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 16 – T: 081413048 Open Mon-Fri 9,30am-1,30pm and 4-8.30pm; Sat 9,30am-1.30pm – via Vittoria Colonna, 15 ANGELO MARINO – A stylish menswear shop, EUR US UK a/c – T: 081.407309 synonymous with Neapolitan La Reggia Designer Outlet sartorial elegance. Open WOMEN LA FELTRINELLI – More than 100,000 Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm It is the perfect place to shop for designer fashion. In this picturesque village-style outlet, you’ll find over titles including books, music and XS 34 2 6 and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat music scores, DVDs, games, musical 10am-1,30pm – via 200 international and Italian brands with savings of 35-70% less instruments, high-class stationery, Domenico Morelli, 14/16 36 4 8 gadgets and magazines. Open Mon- – T: 081.414225 f you love designer fashion, you can’t visit even more special, you can arrange an Piazza Minipio in the centre of Naples. You S Fri 10am-9pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 38 6 10 Naples without making time for a trip to appointment with the Personal Style can also reserve a private transfer by calling 10am-2pm and 4pm-10pm - www. ASPESI – Lightness and lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa Caterina a fluidity are the key words La Reggia Designer Outlet. Advisor. Book online before your visit to the information office or booking online. I 40 8 12 Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.2405411 of this brand featuring This stylish shopping village is one of five enjoy their expert service tailored to your Plus, non-EU citizens can enjoy a tax refund M soft, versatile clothing. Italian centres in the McArthurGlen Group, fashion needs. on products purchased at the centre. 42 10 14 Open Mon-Sat 10am- and is home to a wide selection of sought- As well as designer shopping, you can enjoy With over 200 brands at 35-70% less all year L 44 12 16 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm CHILDREN’S – www.aspesi.it – piazza after brands including Blumarine, Brooks much more at La Reggia Designer Outlet. round, as well as great places to eat and MEN CLOTHING & San Pasquale, 23/24 – T: Brothers, Hugo Boss, Roberto Cavalli, Tru Relax by their beautiful fountain and watch drink, you can enjoy a fantastic day out at La 081.7645399 Trussardi, Pinko, Guess, Liu jo, Patrizia Pepe the world go by, or admire your purchases Reggia Designer Outlet. TOYS 44 34 34 BARBARO - Since 1970, and many more. Even better, they’re all 35- over a leisurely lunch in one of their cafés S DU PAREIL AU MEME – A brand Barbaro has been 70% less than the RRP, all year round. and restaurants. There’s plenty of delicious >> Autostrada A1. Exit Caserta Sud, 46 36 36 specializing in clothing for children synonymous with a aged 0 to 14. Open Mon-Sat 10am- With so many brands on offer, you’ll find local cuisine on offer, including authentic Marcianise (CE) distinct, highly 48 38 38 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – recognizable exactly what you’re looking for – from Italian coffee, traditional Naples-style pizza >> T: 0823 510244 M http://www.dpam.com/ - via Vittoria 50 40 40 style that designer accessories and beautiful and Italy’s world-famous ice cream. >> [email protected] Colonna 14/a interprets eveningwear, to holiday essentials and The centre is open seven days a week and >> McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise 52 42 42 FRANCESCO MARTONE – Established stylish gifts for your friends and family. you can get there easily on the return L in 1889, Francesco Martone has To make your shopping experience shuttle bus service, which runs daily from 54 44 44 developed from generation MICHAEL KORS. Crafted in vacchetta, the Bryce to generation with its array of Leather Boot are a part of Jet Set 6 Collection elegant, timeless children’s fashions. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples www.michaelkors.com

20 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 21 SHOPPING

Italian luxury with 8pm – www.bikkembergs.com – via Gaetano LIU JO – Established as a textiles company the best-known Filangieri, 4/5 specializing in knitwear, it later branched out into “ready-to-wear” fashion for women, men clothing and EDDY MONETTI – Hats, ties, smoking jackets and children. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm accessory labels. and a range of accessories. His motto is and 4.30pm-8pm – www.liujo.it – via Gaetano Galleria Umberto “men must keep abreast of the times”. Open Filangieri, 6/7 – T: 081.42982 I, 1/7. T: 081414940 Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Sat 4pm- www.barbaro.eu 8pm - www.eddymonetti.com – via dei Mille, LOTTO 0 – A chic, cult Neapolitan sportswear BLASI – A 45 – T: 081.407064 – piazza Santa Caterina, 8 – T: destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and haven for 081.403229 4.30pm-8pm – www.lottozero.it – via Gaetano Filangieri, 60 – T: 081.2512103 lovers of FA.B.ER – Featuring sartorial items and costume precious jewellery, this workshop is a blaze of colour and LUCIANO COPPOLA – Styles by Brando, Iceberg, fabrics, a quirky shopping destination. Open Mon-Sat Fusco and Gigli are featured alongside a refined 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via G. selection of specially treated waterproofed cuts and Ferrigni, 4 – T: 338.4300696 garments. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm - via dei Mille, 47 – T: 081.413026 FALCONERI – A brand that creates comfortable, form-fitting garments with an impeccable cut. LUISA SPAGNOLI – A perfect balance of Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- innovation and tradition, upgraded lines and 8pm - www.falconeri.it – via dei Mille, 51 – T: experimentation with styles are part of Luisa 081403471 Spagnoli’s philosophy. Open Mon-Fri 10am- 2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.luisaspagnoli. FRANCESCA FERRANTE – Its collections, it – via Chiaia, 200 – T: 081.410132 Via Toledo. T: ever-attentive to new fads and the latest 081419476 HUGO BOSS. Sorrel leather ankle boots trend, are practical, young and fresh. Open featuring a decorative clasp and metal fittings Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- MARIELLA BURANI – Clothing, leather goods, to add a versatile touch of cool to all outfits. 8pm – www.francescaferrante.com – piazza dei knitwear and footwear for discerning women. Martiri, 52 – T: 081.2451056 Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm- www.hugoboss.com 8pm – www.mariellaburani.com – via Chiaia, FRANZESE - A high-end luxury boutique 136 carrying men, women and children’s clothing fashion-forward styles. Open Mon-Sat 10am- plus loads of stylish accessories – www. MAXI HO – A reference point for shopping in luxuryoflove.it – via D. Morelli, 6/10b (piazza dei Naples, where the group owns a number of 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 31/33 Martiri). T: 0816583168 sales points. Its via Nisco location is dedicated – T: 081.415283 to clothing collections, footwear and GALLERIA NAVARRA – A real oasis of shopping BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – The king of cashmere. accessories for men. Open Mon-Fri 10am- in a garden: iconic brands and the latest trends Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm- 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm in Neapolitan elegance - www.gallerianavarra. 8pm – www.brunellocucinelli.con – via dei - www.maxiho.it – via N. Nisco, 23/27 – T: it – Piazza dei Martiri, 23 – T: 0817643595 Mille, 31/35 – T: 081.4238126 081.410231 GUTTERIDGE – Micheael Gutteridge arrived BRUNO CARUSO PRIVEE – Caruso’s bridal MURPHY & NYE – One of the most prestigious in Naples from Yorkshire and went on to nautical brands in the world. Open Mon-Sat wear is a delightful mix of elegance and create a small empire. Today the company contemporary trends. Relief flowers, is synonymous with creative flair, skill, Swarovski, georgette and opulent, elegant tradition and innovation. Open Mon/Sat capes designed to discreetly cover plunging 10am/1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. necklines during religious ceremonies but gutteridge.it – via Chiaia, 107 also soft, mermaid-style lines and semi- transparencies epitomize the rich details of HALLOWEEN – Since 1981 it has offered a wide choice of garments from the best his gowns. Via Carlo Poerio, 12. T: 0817640551 Italian and European brands based on www.brunocarusoprivee.com attention to detail and the search for CATAPANO - A wide range of apparel, both unusual, high-quality fabrics. Open Mon/ casual and elegant and top-level customer Sat 9,45am-1,45pm and 4,30pm-8pm - via service make Catapano a must-visit destination. Ferrigni, 37 – T: 081403773 via Toledo. T: 081407813 HARMONT & BLAINE – Iconic dachshund CESARE ATTOLINI – The king of tailors, or the brand Harmon & Blaine represents one tailor of kings, Cesare Attolini actually made of the most dynamic and successful a suit for Victor Emanuel III of Italy. Open sportswear brands in the fashion industry. Mon-Fri 10,30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 10am-1,30pm - www.cesareattolini.com – vico 4pm-8pm – www.harmontblaine.it – Vetriera, 12 – T: 081.426826 piazza dei Martiri, 33 – T: 081.7642591 DE MATTEO - A rich choice of brands for men HUGO BOSS –An ever so sleek and stylish and for women. Also stocks accessory. Open collection of high-end clothing for men Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Piazza Nicola Amore, and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm 14/16. T: 081260582 www.dematteogroup.it and 4pm-8pm – www.hugoboss.com – via dei Mille, 41 – T:081.401424 DESIGUAL – Established in Barcelona in 1984, the slogan of this fantasy-filled brand is: JOSSA – Men’s clothing, footwear and accessories. It stocks Alberto Aspesi “Desigual is not the same” – www.desigual.com quilted jackets and jackets, vintage-style – Via Toledo, 300/302 – T: 0810665132 Duvetica quilted jackets and minimalist, DIRK BIKKEMBERGS – Belgian designer Dirk beautifully tailored Jil Sander suits. ALBERTA FERRETTI. Severe, old-world brocade Bikkembergs’ philosophy has always been Accessories include Pantofola D’Oro cuissardes for the 2015 Fall-Winter season. to combine the best of fashion and sport. sneakers and coloured Car Shoe loafers. Via Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm- Carlo Poerio, 43. T: 0817649835 www.albertaferretti.com

22 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 SHOPPING SHOPPING

ROBERTA BACARELLI – Since 2011, a brand - www.libonatijewels.com – vico II Alabardieri, mantovano.com – piazza dei Martiri, 58 – T: TRAMONTANO – Since the very beginning, BURBERRY. Elegant Wellington boots with dedicated to women fashion. Her collection 27 – T: 081.19564205 081.418003 Tramontano’s leather goods collections, stud inserts at the ankle and non-slip rubber fluctuates between tailor-made authentic including “Made-in-Italy” totes and accessories, APA – The time-honoured tradition of coral and MONETTI – High-class watchmaking and soles. it.burberry.com vintage garments and more contemporary have been manufactured exclusively in its cameo crafting from 1750 to the present-time. jewellery in Naples since 1904. Open Mon-Sat stylish outfits, in a blend conveying an Naples-based workshops. Open Mon-Sat Via Cavallo, 6, Torre del Greco – T: 0818810246 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – equilibrated image of nowadays woman 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm - www. www.lpm-apa.com www.monettiorologi.com – via dei Mille, 12 which, not dropping out the cloths comfort, tramontano.it – via Chiaia, 143/144 – T: – T: 081.411468 blinks her eyes to the past days elegance - BARAKA ELITE LUXURY – New materials skilfully 081.414837 those in search www.robertabacarelli.it - Via C. Poerio, 48. T: combined with gold and diamonds thanks to NAPPA GIOIELLI – The first Nappa jewellery of their ideal 0817641584 cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat 10am- store was founded in Naples in 1920. Unique PASSION SHOPPING 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.baraka.it – via jewels that combine high-end craftsmanship fragrance. Open RUBINACCI – Here you can sit down, have a BRUNO ACAMPORA – For the past 40 years, Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 with sophisticated design - aesthetics. Open from Tuesday to cup of coffee with Mariano himself, discuss the Bruno Acampora has been creating perfumed Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm Saturday from arrival or some new fabric or the manufacture BRINKMANN – Iconic watchmakers whose oils in his small atelier. His range features seven - www.nappagioielli.it – via Filangieri, 65 – T: 9.30am to of a new suit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and name is imprinted on the clocks of all the natural essences of international repute. Open 081.413143 1.30pm Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.marianorubinacci. cableway stations in Naples - www.brinkmann. Mon-Sat 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – www. net – via Chiaia, 149/E – T: 081.415793 it - Piazza Municipio, 21 – T: 0815520555 PANDORA - The wide range of Pandora brunoacampora.com – via Gaetano Filangieri, jewellery offers a superlative mix of gift 72 – T: 081.401701 SARTORIA DALCUORE – His outerwear has a BRUNO & PISANO – All the details of this ideas for all types of women and occasions. unique cut that earned him the nickname of boutique’s decor are reminiscent of the ELENA COLONNA – For several generations, With its charms, bracelets, rings, earrings, “the tailor, non-tailor”, coined by his colleagues passing of time: from its entrance door the Haute Couture bridal wear found at Atelier watches, necklaces and pendants, those on to emphasize his flair and his non-conformist featuring a ticking clock, to its poufs and Elena has been a pure expression of the the receiving end can continue to extend attitude. Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am- armchairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm maison’s sartorial expertise. Her passion for their Pandora collection with timeless items, 2pm - www.sartoriadalcuore.com – Riviera di and 4.30pm-8pm – via Calabritto, 15 – T: bridal gowns stems fro more than fifty years and from 4pm designed to cater to all tastes and, what’s Chiaia, 281– T: 081.7645785 081.7644035 in the business. Open only by appointment to 8pm. Mon. From 4.30pm to 8pm - www. more, last for a lifetime. – www.pandora.net – – www.elenacolonna.it – via dei Mille, 40 – T: profumopoerio33.it - Via Carlo Poerio, 33. T: SATRIANO CINQUE – An atelier, a meeting place CALABRITTO 28 – New materials skilfully Via Toledo, 322 – T: 0814976012 DIOR. High boots in blue and brown patterned 081.404590 0812405072 and a tailor’s shop, it offers high-end “made to combined with gold and diamonds thanks patent leather add a touch of colour to cold, PRESTA – Established in Naples in 1902 thanks measure” garments made from precious fabrics to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat LIVIO DE SIMONE – A “designer cum artist” VOYAGE PITTORESQUE - Made-to-order to the enterprising spirit of visionary, Cavalier grey winter days. www.dior.com featuring unique weaves and patterns. Open 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. whose creations have garnered international contemporary, graphic and photographic Giuseppe, who used his love of jewellery to lay Mon-Fri 10am-7pm and Sat 10am-2pm - vico baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951 acclaim on runways throughout the world works plus the reproduction of all types and the foundations for future generations. Open thanks to his magnificent sartorial offerings. Satriano, 5 – T: 081.0320021 CARAMANNA – The philosophy of Caramanna’s sizes of prints and photographs. Elite art, Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- In addition to his womenswear, De Simone’s TAKESHY KUROSAWA – A dramatic, cutting- jewellery is encapsulated in innovative, sought- 8pm – www.prestagioielli.it – via dei Mille prints, panels, objet d’art and customized 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. home fabrics are also absolutely stunning. edge, totally unconventional brand, whose after shapes, intriguing subjects and the works. Stylish, imaginative tailor-made store.murphynye.com – via Chiaia, 148/149 SARA LUBRANO - Sara Lubrano’s handcrafted Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm unusual, personality-filled name says it all. working of noble materials based on timeless creations - www.voyagepittoresque.it – Via pieces are designed to exalt the personality of - www.liviodesimone.it – Via D. Morelli, 17 – T: OFFICINE – Classic clothing and casual refined Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm artisanal techniques - www.caramannagioielli. Vittoria Colonna, 15 – T: 081407309 those who enjoy wearing exclusive jewellery, 0817643827 taste. So many brands are available: Lardini, – www.takeshykurosawa.com – via dei Mille, 11 it - Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 2 – T: 0810608740 often tailor-made in her atelier. Vicoletto Barba Orian, Tramarossa Pants, Roy Rogers and MARINELLA – The history of the Marinella YAMAMAY – Lingerie, pyjamas and night wear, DODO BOUTIQUE – A collection of charms Belledonne a Chiaia, 7, Naples. T: 08119575070 Altea Heritage are just some of them. Via Carlo family started with its founder Eugenio. It was swimwear and make-up, but also eyewear and created by Pomellato, recognized throughout www.saralubrano.it he who founded the “Marinella philosophy”: SHOES Poerio, 92/f. T: 0810324403 bags. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm – www. the world for its jewellery, designed to VENTRELLA – Each piece of jewellery is unique more than a sales point, a sort of men’s club ALBANO – A temple to luxury shoes: sexy yamamay.com - via Chiaia, 94 – via dei Mille, 83 celebrate the small, whimsical feathered Dodo. PAOLO FIORILLO – The piazza dei Martiri in an ongoing search for perfection. Ventrella where human relations are based on service, sandals in uber-glam nuances, embellished A/B – T: 081.409490 Open Mon-Sat 10,30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri boutique is dedicated to women’s collections jewellery is distinguished by its original charm courtesy and respect. by precious stones, Swarowski crystals and 4.30pm-8pm - www.dodo.it - via Filangieri, 58 while the one located in via Carducci stocks WEEKEND MAX MARA - An Italian fashion knows as the “labyrinth” or the “boomerang”. Open Mon-Sat 6,30am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm ultra-feminine details. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am- clothing, footwear and accessories for men house known for its ready-to-wear clothing GENTILE - High class watches and jewellery Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri - http://www.marinellanapoli.it - Riviera di 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www. and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm for elegant, dynamic women. Corso Umberto since 1900. Armando Gentile Gioielleria. 4.30pm-8pm - www.ventrella.it – via Carlo Chiaia, 287 – T: 081.7644214 albano.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 12 – T: and 4pm-8pm – www.paolofiorillo.com – via I, 108/110 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Toledo, 349, Poerio, 11 – T: 081.7643173 M. CILENTO E F.LLO DAL 1780 – For more than 081.19568193 Carducci, 49/51 – piazza dei Martiri, 30/32 – T: Naples. T: 081412711 info@armandogentile. 200 years, in addition to high-quality, high-end ALBERTO GUARDIANI – Superior quality 081.2400023 it; Gentile Gioielli. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. accessories, Cilento has offered its clientele a footwear featuring a blend of exquisite Via Nicola Nisco, 4, Naples. T: 081418360 wide range of the best fabrics for clothing and OLD ENGLAND – Tradition, quality and elegance CONCEPT STORES LEATHER & LUGGAGE craftsmanship, experimentation and [email protected] shirting - www.cilento1780.com - Via Medina, meld in a shop whose British style has made it MERCEDES-BENZ SPOT – For total look CARPISA – A small tortoise logo and more than painstaking attention to detail cohabit in a GIOVANNI RASPINI – A space extending over 61/a-b. T: 0815513363 famous throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat enthusiasts, at this store, Mercedes owners 600 sales points scattered throughout Italy perfect mix, giving life to luxurious products. a surface area of 35 sq.m in the heart of the 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - via will find everything necessary to coordinate and the world. Its rich array of collections, an MONCLER – Boutique and home to the famous Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm – shopping centre renowned for its beautifully Filangieri 15/D luggage, jackets, watches and pens with their expression of pure Italian design, are a bargain “puffer” jacket. A jacket that is ideal both for www.albertoguardiani.com - via Gaetano handcrafted silverware. Open Mon-Sat car. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri fashionista’s dream come true. Bags, small mountain and city wear. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Filangieri, 76/78 – T: 081.7643884 PINKO – Pinko stands out thanks to its stunning 10.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. 4.30pm-8pm - www.mercedes-benz-spot.it/ - leather goods, luggage, briefcases, accessories 14pm and 4pm-8pm – www.moncler.com – decor, studied down to the last detail, raspini.it – via Bisignano, 63 – T: 081.4976064 DELIBERTI – Style, research, design and a via Nisco, 16 and gifts at affordable prices. www.carpisa.it – via Filangieri, 21 – T: 081.421159 including its carefully planned arrangement profound intuition for new trends is the ILEANA DELLA CORTE – Her motto is: “I like Via Nisco, 1 – T: 081418390; via Toledo, 249/251 of lights, colours and displays. Open Mon-Sat R-STORE – Authorized Apple assistance centre. MUSEUM SHOP - Shop for gifts and souvenirs byword of this house of shoes. Open Mon- being elegant”. Open Mon 4.30pm-8pm; Tues- – T: 0812525067 typical of Naples. T-shirts, jewelry, bronzes, 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – A place where you can try out all the latest Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www. prints, statues, books, CDs, DVDs and www.pinko.it - via dei Mille, 1/7 – T: 081.4976360 applications or simply browse through FURLA – Since 1927, Furla has produced and deliberti.it – via dei Mille, 65 – T: 081.6584363 ileanadellacorte.it – via Carlo Poerio, 52/a – T: everything that the universe of the bitten distributed stylish, high-class, exclusively stationery with themes dedicated to Naples - PRIDE CONCEPT STORE PENALTY – A space 081.7646101 DEV – Carries the men’s, women’s and children’s apple has to offer. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm “Made-in-Italy” bags, footwear and accessories www.museum-shop.it - Largo Corpo di Napoli, where research and the experimentation of lines of renowned brands Tod’s, Hogan and and 4pm-8pm - www.rstore.it - via Nisco, 14/16 INTRECCI PREZIOSI – The result of passion and throughout the globe. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am- 3. T: 3891194169 new brands is the name of the game. Open Fay. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri – T: 081.404246 artisanal perfection, each piece is produced 1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.furla.com – OSTUNI – For the past fifty years, Ostuni has Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www. using only the most precious materials and via Gaetano Filangieri, 26 – T: 081.414218 been a leader in the world of fragrances and 4.30pm-8pm – via Gaetano Filangieri, 28/33 – pridepenalty.it – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 27/28 time-honoured design techniques. Open T: 081.410156 PIQUADRO – The company specializes in is known, above all, for its rarities. Bottles – T: 081.418542 Tues-Sat 9,30am-1,30am; Mon-Sat 4,30pm-8pm JEWELLERY & business and travel luggage, trolleys and that are almost impossible to find anywhere ERNESTO ESPOSITO SHOES – A Neapolitan - www.intreccipreziosi.com - via Carlo Poerio, else and unrivalled essences. Open Mon-Sat RAFFAELE CAPASSO - Established in 1905, suitcases, mainly in leather or hi-tech materials, designer of international repute, his passion 89 – T: 0810321203 9am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – via Morelli, Raffaele Capazzo has always managed to WATCHES a blend of traditional Italian craftsmanship, for fashion, art and design have served as 23 – T: 081.7643903 – via D. Colonna, 39 – T: always keep abreast of the times by not only ALESSANDRA LIBONATI JEWELS – AA young, MANTOVANO – On offer are items of high-class design, innovation and technology. Open his main sources of inspiration. Open Mon- 081.401804 offering apparel form men, women and design company where attention to fashion jewellery, both antique and modern, Sheffield Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www. children but also home furnishings and linen – and contemporary trends plays a key role. silver and objets d’art. Open Mon-Sat 10am- 8pm - www.piquadro.com – via Carducci, 32 PROFUMO EMOZIONI OLFATTIVE – A ernestoespositoshoes.com/ - via Santa Corso Umberto I, 147 – T: 081204741 Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm 1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www. – T: 081.419245 boutique dedicated to niche fragrances for Caterina a Chiaia, 20 – T: 081.4238325

24 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING SHOPPING

L’ARTIGIANO DEI SANDALI – Jackie Kennedy had PASKAL – The boutique was founded by dozens of styles. A “must-visit” destination. Open a soft spot for this tiny shoemaker’s shop. For the Pasquale Campanile, a member of a family of Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – Piazza VOZZA – Via Fuorlovado, 38, Capri. T: SORRENTO CHE DELIZIA – Via San Cesareo, 9, LEONARD – Corals. Via San Cesareo, 24, past 50 years, the Ricci family has been crafting time-honoured shoemakers who began his Giulio Rodinò, 17 – T: 081.425626 0818374010 www.graziavozza.com Sorrento. T: 0818074702 Sorrento. T: 8772923 adventure in 1956 with a workshop in via Scarlatti, custom-made sandals at this location. The open LO SCRIGNO DI BRUNELLA – Positano later going on to open what is now Paskal – a Capri model with a low heel resembling a Roman STATIONERY Fashion. Via Mulini, 24/26, Positano. T: sandal is one of the venue’s standouts. Open haven of finely-crafted footwear. Open Mon-Sat 0898123502 LA BOTTEGA DELLA CARTA – Boasts an LOCAL PRODUCTS PASSION SHOPPING Mon-Sat 9am-1,30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – 9.30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www. impressive choice of stationery, gift items and LOUISE MODA POSITANO – Positano fashion. vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.414698 pkbypaskal.it – via dei Mille, 83 – T: 081.409466 CANTINE ANTONIO MAZZELLA – Wine. Via ANTICA SARTORIA POSITANO – Sartorial. Via party decorations. Customers will be swept away G. Marconi, 158/164, Positano. T: 089875089 Via dei Mulini, 22, Positano. T: 089875192 SPATARELLA - Footwear and leather goods Campagnano, 2, Ischia. T: 081901541 www.louisepositano.com MARIO VALENTINO – Truly innovative footwear. by its colourful, eye-catching treats, from festoons www.anticasartoriapositano.it manufactured by revered Italian and international Several of his styles have even been showcased to coloured boxes right up to gift cards. - via CAPRI RICORDI – Capri. T: 0818378803 www. MARILÙ – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, 323, BIMONTE – Cameos and coral. Via P.R. at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Open brands. For women who love trendy designer Cavalleriza a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081421903 capriricordi.it Positano. T: 089811229 – www.marilumoda. Giuliani, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 – www. Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – accessories and shoes - Via Toledo, 284 – T: com LA FELTRINELLI – A megastore spread out over CERAMICA SOLIMENE – Via Madonna degli bimontesorrento.com www.mariovalentino.it – via Calabritto, 10 – T: 081417108 four floors, Feltrinelli offers including books, Angeli, 7, Vietri sul mare. T: 089210243 www. MARIO LIMONE – Perfumes. Corso Italia, 081.7644262 ceramicasolimene.it BON BON – Positano fashion. Via G. Marconi, SUTOR - A temple to luxury shoes: Marini, Regain, music and music scores, DVDs, games, musical 212 b/c, Sorrento. T: 0815341021 www. Green George, Santoni, Premiata. Via Carlo Poerio, 390, Positano. T: 089875963 www.bonbonsrl.it mariolimone.it RUCO LINE – Easy-to-wear, practical footwear that instruments, high-class stationery, gadgets and CERAMICHE ASSUNTA – Via Cristoforo 36. T: 0812452292 focuses, above all, on comfort. Open Mon-Sat magazines. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Colombo, 137, Positano. T: 089875008 www. BOTTEGA DI BRUNELLA – Positano fashion. PEZZI PAZZI – Positano fashion. Via Guglielmo 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, YMOTHO – High-quality, trendy shoes at 4.30pm-8pm - www.lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa ceramicassunta.it Via Pasitea, 72, Positano. T: 089875228 Marconi, 12, Positano. T: 089811141 www. pezzipazzi.it 27 – T: 081.419012 unbeatable prices featuring a wide selection of Caterina a Chiaia, 23 - T: 081.2405411 CORNER SHOP – Via San Francesco, 21/23, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – Cashmere apparel. Sorrento. T: 0818783322 Via Camerelle, 14/a, Capri. T: 0818388248 – RALLO – Handcraft. Via Pasitea, 58, Positano. T: www.brunellocucinelli.it 089811711 D’AMBRA VINI – Wine. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16, Ischia. T: 081907246 CABIRIA – Positano Fashion. Via Pasitea, 253, RINO BOUTIQUE – Positano fashion. Via COAST&ISLANDS Positano. T: 089812168 – www.cabiriamoda.it Pasitea, 114, Positano. T: 089812043 www. FATTORIA MARECOCCOLA – Via rinoboutique.it Marecoccola, 10, Sorrento. T: 0815330151 CARRO FASHION – Positano fashion. Viale GREY FLANNEL – Via Le Botteghe, 31, Capri. RUSTICA DOMUS – Furniture. Corso Vittoria www.fattoriamarecoccola.net Pasitea, 90, Positano. T: 089875780 www. ACCESSORIES T: 0818388200 JEWELLERY & fashion-positano.com Colonna, 155, Ischia. T: 081992100 DANIELA GRILLO – Beachwear. Corso FISCHI D’ISCHIA – Lucky charm. Piazza Marina, GRIFO – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 169, Ischia. WATCHES CARTHUSIA – Local fragrances. Via Camerelle, SARTORIA FIORENTINO – Made-to-measure Vittoria Colonna, 138, Ischia. T: 3465158320 T: 0813334401 www.grifoischia.it Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 081994141 www. garments. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 29, BOTTEGA DEL GIOIELLO – Corso Italia, 10, Capri. T: 0818370529; Corso Italia, 117. www.danielagrillo.com fischidischia.it Positano. T. 089875290 IDENTITÀ MARE – Via Delle Terme, 5, Ischia. 179, Sorrento. T: 0818785419 Sorrento. T: 0818075549 – www.carthusia.com FASHION VOGUE BEACHWEAR – T: 081985580 IL GUSTO DELLA COSTA – Via Capriglione, Beachwear. Via Giovanni Mazzella, Ischia. T: BOTTIGLIERI GIOIELLI – Corso Vittoria 24, Positano. T: 0898131098 www. ECOCAPRI – Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 11, Capri. T: 081908020 IL PELLICANO – Corso Vittoria Colonna, Colonna, 67, Ischia. T: 081984128 – www. ilgustodellacosta.it 0818374510 www.ecocapri.com Ischia; Piazzetta Sant’Angelo, Serrara bottiglierigioielli.it SHOES FABIANA FILIPPI – Knits. Corso Angelo Rizzoli, IL SOGNO – Beachwear. Via Maiano, 15, Fontana, Ischia. T: 081990854; T: 081904368 ISCHIA SAPORI – Liqueurs. Via Porto, 36, Ischia. ANTONIO VIVA SANDALI CAPRESI – Via CAPRI KRONOS DI MARIO RUOCCO – 148, Ischia. T: 081900472 – www.fabianafilippi. Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 3388854082 T: 081991600 – www.rucolino.it Giuseppe Orlandi, 75, Capri. T: 081.8373583 – JUDITH MAJOR – Via Chiaia delle Rose. Via Le Botteghe, 12, Capri. T: 0818377545 com www.sandalocaprese.it LE MONDE DES BIJOUX – Via Roma, 123, Sant’Angelo, Ischia. T: 081983295; www.shop.caprikronos.com LIMONCELLO DI CAPRI – Via Roma, 79, Capri. Ischia. T: 081984800 0813330336 T: 0818375561 www.limoncello.com FIORENTINO CREATION – Interior DON CATELLO – Via franco Franchi, 5, Positano. CHANTECLER – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 51, decorations. Piazza Angelina Lauro, Sorrento. MACRAMÈ – Via Luigi De Maio, 28, Sorrento. T: 089811905 http://doncatello.weebly.com/ KETRA FASHION – Corso Italia, 1/G, Meta di Capri. T: 0818370544 – www.chantecler.it MARYCHARLES – Souvenirs. Corso Italia, 210/b, T: 0818784258 www.fiorentinocreation.com T: 0818773114 Sorrento. T: 0815323032 Sorrento. T: 0818771455 www.marycharles.it SANDALI CORCIONE – Corso Italia, 28, DESIDERIO GIOIELLI – Piazza Umberto I, I LOVE POSITANO – Home design. Via Sorrento. T: 0818770600 www.sandalicorcione. LA CAPRESE PIÙ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 17, Capri. T: 0818370011 NATURISCHIA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 220 Pasitea, 91, Positano. T: 08912199 www. com Ischia. T: 081981797 www.lacapresepiu. and 246, Ischia. T: 081982112 ilovepositanodesign.com CLOTHING com FELUDEI – Via Dei Mulini, 19, Positano. T: SANDALI SINISCALCHI – Corso Italia, Sorrento. 089812181 www.feludei.it SERPICO – Piazza Matteotti, 14, Ischia. T: LA CONCHIGLIA – Artisanal products. Via T: 0818783065 – www.sandali-siniscalchi. ANNA FOTI – Corso Italia, 210, Sorrento. T: LA PARISIENNE – Piazza Umberto I, 7, Capri. 081.997162 Fluoro, 29, Sorrento. T: 0818774605 blogspot.com 0818784730 www.annafoti.com T: 0818370283 www.laparisiennecapri.it GENTILE POSITANO – Via del Sarracino, 57, Positano. T: 0898123477 info@ A’ PUTECHELLA – Via Luigi Mazzella, 101, LINOMANIA – Via Pasitea, 199, Positano. T: gentilepositano.it www.gentilepositano.it Ischia. T: 0813334537 www.aputechella.it 3384194405 GIOIELLERIA DI SOMMA – Corso Italia, BOUTIQUE BAROCCO – Viale Pasitea, 94, MARIA LAMPO – Via Pasitea, 12/16, 114, Sorrento. T: 0818073213 Positano. T: 089811144 Positano. T. 089875021 – www.marialampo. it IVI GIOIELLI – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 20, CARMELA CELENTANO – Via P.R. Giuliani, Positano. T: 089811025 – www.ivigioielli.it 4/6, Sorrento. T: 0818781370 www. MARIO ADARIO – Corso Italia, 128/130, carmelacelentano.it Sorrento. T: 0818781361 www.marioadario. LA CAMPANINA – Via Vittorio Emanuele, it CHIARO DI LUNA – Corso Italia, 16/18, Meta 18, Capri. T: 0818370643 www. lacampaninacapri.com di Sorrento. T: 0815322290 MARIORITA STORE – Boutique at the Capri Palace Hotel. Piazza Vittoria. Anacapri, CRUCIANI – Piazza Umberto, 5, Capri. T: LA CAPRESE – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 41, Capri. T: 0818371426 0818370204 www.cruciani.net Capri. T: 0818377777 NADIR – Via Pasitea, 44, Positano. T: LA PERLA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, DOLCE E GABBANA – Via Camerelle, 089811690 www.nadirpositano.com 39/41, Capri. T: 0818377154 – www. 129, Ischia. T: 081988094 www. dolcegabbana.it PHILOSOPHY – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 130, laperlagioielliischia.it Ischia. T: 0813331312 ELIO FRONTERRÈ – Corso Vittoria Colonna, POMELLATO – Via Camerelle, 10/b, Capri. T: 154, Ischia. T: 081905552 www.eliofronterre. RETRÒ FASHION STORE – Corso Luigi 0818375418 – www.pomellato.it com Manzi, Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 0815072429 SORRENTO GIOIELLI – Corso Italia, www.retroabbigliamentoischia.it EMPORIO LE SIRENUSE – Via Cristoforo Sorrento. T: 0818770392 – www. Colombo, 30, Positano. T: 089811468 – RI BOUTIQUE – Piazza Santa Restituta, sorrentogioielli.com www.sirenuse.it Ischia. T: 081994322 SWAROVSKI – Corso Italia, 21, Sorrento. T: FARELLA – Knitwear. Via Fuorvaldo, 21/c, RIZ BOUTIQUE – Via Messer Onofrio, Ischia. 0818771455 – www.swarovski.com Capri. T: 0818375243 – www.farella.it T: 081900239 THE CORAL JEWELRY – Via P.R. Giuliani, FIORDALISO BOUTIQUE – Via Gianturco, 2, STELLA DI MARE – Corso Angelo Rizzoli, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 www. Ischia. T: 081900219 150, Ischia. T: 081994396 thecoraljewelry.com

26 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 27 WHERE NOW | SHOPPING GIFT GUIDE The Where Team brings you some ▼ TRUSSARDI items to inspire you Via dei Mille, 30, Naples. T: 081416829 www.trussardi.com ▼ TOD’S via Calabritto, 3, Naples. T: 0817643694 www.tods.com

▲ LOUIS VUITTON Via dei Mille, 2, Naples. T: 0817646606 ▲ EMPORIO ARMANI www.louisvuitton.it Piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816 www.armani.com

▲ PRADA Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: 081413499 www.prada.com

▲ BULGARI Via Filangieri, 40, Naples. T: 081409551 www.bulgari.com ▼ GUCCI Via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 0817640730 www.gucci.com

▼ MONTBLANC Via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081400057 www.montblanc.com

Piazza dei Martiri, Naples

28 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 29 [ FASHION DESIGNERS] Top Brands The paradise of luxury shopping in Naples and on the Coast&Islands

BULGARI - The Italian creator of luxurious Naples. T: 081.410156. Open Mon-Sat 10am- jewels www.bulgari.com - via Filangieri, 2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Umberto 40, Naples. T: 081.409551. Open Mon-Fri I, 20, Capri. T: 0818375967. Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - via Camerelle, 10am-9pm 37, Capri. T: 0818374434. Open Mon-Sun 10am-11pm LOUIS VUITTON - A dream, an icon and a work of art. Each Louis Vuitton bag is a symbol of BURBERRY - An unmistakable icon of British exemplary quality and outstanding savoir- style since 1865, the brand invented a new faire - www.louisvuitton.it - via dei Mille, 2, look and made a name for itself in the world Naples. T: 081.7646606. Open Mon-Sat 10am- of fashion thanks to its stylish raincoats 2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, and innovative materials. Its distinctive 16/A, Capri. T: 0818376799. Open Mon-Sun tartan pattern has become one of its best- 10am-10pm known and widely- loved symbols - www. it.burberry.com - via dei Mille 24/28, Naples. MAX MARA - A name associated since its T: 081.0700180 inception with classic female elegance, it has always offered clean-cut, beautifully tailored DAMIANI - Creativity, design and lines. Its sensual yet “no frills” style has always entrepreneurship have been the hallmarks served as its visiting card - www.maxmara. of the Damiani family for almost a century, com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 69, Naples. combined with a profound passion for art, T: 081.405900. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm handed down from father to son and still Via Vittorio Emanuele, Capri apparent in the third generation that now and 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-2pm; corso Italia, helms the company - www.damiani.it - via 102-104, Sorrento. T: 0818782785. Open Mon- Filangieri, 15 bis, Naples. T: 081.405043 - Open Thur 10am-1,30pm and 5,30pm-10pm; Fri-Sun Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm- 10,30am-10pm 8pm MONTBLANC - For a century synonymous with EMPORIO ARMANI - A leading luxury brand high-class writing instruments, the brand has on the world fashion scene that designs, been known for its timeless values including manufactures and distributes fashion quality and craftsmanship - www.montblanc. and lifestyle products including clothing, com - via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081.400057. accessories and jewellery - www.armani.com Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816. PRADA - – The decor of this boutique mirrors Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Corso Italia, 160- Prada’s minimalist style to perfection – www. 162, Sorrento. T: 081.8781779 prada.com – Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: FENDI - Founded in 1925, by Edoardo and 081.413499. Open Mon-Sat 10pm-8pm; via Adele Fendi, over the years, it has built up Roma, 2, Capri. T: 0818374420. Open Mon-Sat its international reputation in the fashion 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm industry with its stunning range of haute couture and pret-a-porter collections - www. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - The high quality fendi.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 24/25, of its footwear is guaranteed by attention Naples. T: 081.413261. Open Mon-Sat 10am- to the construction of its lasts, unrivalled 2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, craftsmanship – www.ferragamo.com 8/B, Capri. T: 0818370871. Open Mon-Sun – woman piazza dei Martiri, 56, Naples. Via Filangieri, Naples 9,30am-10pm T: 081.415454; man piazza dei Martiri, 60, Naples. T: 081.412123. Open Mon-Sat GUCCI - Gucci’s “Made-in-Italy” style has 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; woman become synonymous with elegance, via Vittorio Emanuele, 21-29, Capri. T: sophistication and desirability - www.gucci. 0818370499; man via Carlo Serena, 1, Capri. T: com - via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 081.7640730. 0818376514. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 25-27, Capri. T: TOD’S - Tod’s offers up handmade footwear, 0818370820. Open Mon-Thur and Sun 10am- bags, leather goods and accessories for 10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight men and women. The essence of luxury and HERMES ITALIA - Men, women and children’s timeless style - www.tods.com - via Calabritto, clothing but also leather goods, jewellery and 3, Naples. T: 081.7643694. Open Mon-Sat watches, fragrances and homeware 10am-14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza - www.italy.hermes.com - via Gaetano Umberto I, 8, Capri. T: 0818376896. Open Filangieri, 53/57, Naples. T: 081.4207054. Mon-Sun 10am-9pm Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm- TRUSSARDI - Originally founded as a glove 8pm; via Camerelle, 43, Capri. T: 0818378957. factory in 1911, this Italian lifestyle brand Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm; closed on Wed subsequently went on to become one of the HOGAN - Not only shoes but also bags, most important brands on the world fashion clothing and eyewear are sold at this stage - www.trussardi.com - via dei Mille, 30, exclusive boutique Naples. T: 081.416829. Open Mon-Sat 10am- www.hogan.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 33, 14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm Piazza Amedeo, Naples

30 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 DINING DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM ANTICA PIZZERIA PORT’ALBA – Estabilished in 1738 LA TAVERNA DI BACCO – The philosophy that and located under the arch wich from Piazza Dante distinguishes La tavern di Bacco is the painstaking, bring to via Costantinopoli, Port’Alba was a meeting ongoing search for excellence in the food and wine place for artists and writers. A characteristic place to sector, with particular emphasis on Campanian products that make our pizzas a one-of-a-kind enjoy the Neapolitan pizza with the fantasy and the tasting experience. Via Sementini, 28, Naples. T: quality of Gennaro Luciano. Via Portalba, 18, Naples. 0815466119 www.sasapizzamia.it T: 081459713 www.anticapizzeriaristoranteportalba. LOMBARDI – One of the oldest pizzerias in Naples, com the Lombardi family was the first to sell authentic ANTONIO&ANTONIO – Restaurant cum pizzeria. Neapolitan pizza in the US. Established in 1892, its Diners can choose from among more than 40 signature dish is “pizza fritta” topped with bacon bits types of pizza baked in a traditional wood-burning and ricotta cheese. Via Foria, 12. T: 081456220 oven. Via Partenope, 26. T: 0812451987 www. NON SOLO PIZZA – Is a take away pizzeria infused antonioeantonio.net with a welcoming, cozy atmosphere. The basic BRANDI – An icon of authentic Neapolitan pizza ingredients of Marco’s pizza include love, passion, since1780. This was where the pizza Margherita was high-quality ingredients and the famous water of PASTA AND BEANS WITH MUSSELS. invented in 1889, so-called in honour of the Queen the Nitrodi springs. Piazza SS. Immacolata, 7, Forio cannellini beans, oil, a few cherry tomatoes of Italy who tasted it here. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo, d’Ischia. T: 0810123841 2. T: 081416928 www.brandi.it and a pinch of hot chili pepper. You can use OLIVA CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI – Traditional either mixed pasta or ‘tubetti’ depending on CAPASSO – Antica Pizzeria Capasso founded in Porta Neapolitan pizza. Premium quality, freshly sourced San Gennaro, in the heart of via Foria is managed by ingredients. Via Arena alla Sanità, 3. T: 081444166 your individual preference the grandfather Vincenzo descending Donna Adele, www.pizzeriaoliva.it who offers with his kin to the public True Neapolitan PIZZERIA BORBONICA – It proposes True Neapolitan pizza according to the tradition of a great family. Via Pizza in a friendly atmosphere of the ancient Napoli. NAPLES Porta San Gennaro, 2/3, Naples. T: 081456421 The secret of its success is the professionalism and DA ATTILIO – The restaurant is based on Neapolitan the use of high quality products. Via Egiziaca a INTERNATIONAL CUISINE traditional cuisine. Everybody is welcomed with Pizzofalcone, 99/100, Naples. T: 0810322495 kindness. One of the best pizzas is the Carnevale, STARITA – Established in 1901, this trattoria, also AL MUERZO – A corner of Spain in the heart of Naples. designed like a star and the border stuffed with Via Bausan, 4. T: 081425093 www.almuerzo.org renowned for its deep-fried snacks, made an ricotta, don’t forget to ask and taste the delicious appearance in L’oro di Napoli (1954), a film starring AMIR – The secrets of Arab cuisine handed down Bacetti or the big croquette. Via Pignasecca, 17. T: Sofia Loren. Via Materdei, 27. T: 0815441485 www. by generations of women. Via Santa Chiara, 25. T: 0815520479 pizzeriastarita.it 0815527380 DA MICHELE – Founded in 1930, this restaurant is TRIANON – Founded in 1923 by the Leones, a BELLA CINA – Japanese and Chinese cuisine. Expect so traditional that it only serves pizza marinara husband and wife team, it is renowned for its big “a top-notch roast ravioli. Calata San Marco, 15. T: and pizza Margherita. Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3. T: ruota del carretto” pizza. Via Pietro Colletta, 44/46. T: 0815512308 0815539204 0815539426 DRAGO D’ORO – Fresh ingredients, creativity and DI MATTEO – Famed, above all, for its fried pizza but style make this one of the best eateries of its kind. Via not only. Also serves an array of other delectable del Chiostro, 21/23. T: 0812135478 fried offerings. Via dei Tribunali, 94. T: 081455262 RESTAURANTS www.pizzeriadimatteo.it GIAPPO SUSHIBAR TAKEAWAY – An elegant sushi ANTICA OSTERIA DA TONINO – Heirloom osteria bar boasting a stylish interior and a wide selection FRESCO – A modern take on traditional trattorie. featuring a wood interior, a wall covered with of top-notch Japanese cuisine. Vico Belledonne in Diners will delight in its traditional flatware and celebrity photos and simple home cooking. Via Chiaia, 2. T: 0817648465 www.giappo.com espresso served in a glass. Via Partenope, 8. T: Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47. T: 081421533 0816582823 JAP-ONE – A refined, elegant atmosphere for lovers of ‘A TAVERNA DO RE – Francesco Parrella upgrades Oriental flavours. Via Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia, GINO SORBILLO – An entire family of pizza chefs (21 traditional favourites while ensuring that they retain 30. T: 0817646667 brothers committed to the art of pizza-making. An all of their original flavours. Fondo Supportico di Teatro Posillipo institution since the 1930s. Via dei Tribunali, 32. T: Separazione, 2/3. T: 0815522424 JORUDAN SUSHI – Quality and tradition for fine 081446643 www.sorbillo.it Japanese dining. Via Tasso, 288. T: 081 640564 CANTINA SAN TEODORO – Owned by Mimmo A multi-purpose space that can be enjoyed seven GORIZIA – Located in the heart of Vomero, it was KUKAI – Classical Japanese cuisine upgraded with an Alba, this small corner of paradise boasts just five founded in 1916 by Salvatore Grasso. Today the days a week innovative twist. Via Carlo de Cesare, 52. T: 081425888 tables. Flavours from Sicily and Campania combine family Grasso keep up the name Gorizia, with great to create dishes boasting a unique, inimitable flavour. LA MADRUGADA – Since 1991 tapas bar and enthusiasm and passion, continuing to offer a high Vico Satriano, 12. T: 08118990558 new season and a new direction for Teatro Posillipo which, restaurant. Via Arenella, 93, Naples. T: 3492405442 quality Neapolitan pizza according to the tradition. www.cantinasanteodoro.it thanks to a generous investment by the Nemea group, ROMEO SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Top-notch Via Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 29, Naples. T: 0815782248 www.gorizia1916.com CARMNELLA – Thanks to years of experience and a promises to offer theatre aficionados an action-packed year sushi served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere passion for pizza and typical Neapolitan cuisine, each A where no detail has been left to chance. Via GUSTO&GUSTO – “L’angolo del gusto” an offshoot of of attractions consisting not only of musical events but also live day, thanks to a careful selection of only the finest Cristoforo Colombo, 45. T: 0810175002 www. the Antonio&Antonio chain. Via Partenope, 31-33. T: ingredients, the venue offers fresh, high-quality, concerts featuring renowned musicians, book presentations, romeohotel.it 0812452662 www.gustoegusto.it authentic Neapolitan fare. A passion for art, the pride screenings and plays. TENDER – Located in the vibrant heart of the city, LA FIGLIA DEL PRESIDENTE – Artisanal Neapolitan of a lifetime! Via Cristoforo Marino, 22/23, Naples. T: 081 5537425 [email protected] The glamorous inaugural gala dinner marking the opening of this this small cosy restaurant also offers discerning pizza based on time-honoured family tradition, diners a chance to eat sushi at lunch. Vico Santa Maria Cacialli continues to uphold the name of one-of-a-kind space was attended by the Mayor of Naples Luigi De CIRO A SANTA BRIGIDA – It’s an elegant restaurant Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 5. T: 0817643143 www. one of the best-known pizza chefs in Naples. Via located in a unique position, deep in the tranquility Magistris, the spokesman of the President of the Regione Campania japonegroup.com del Grande Archivio, 23/24. T: 081286738 www. of one of the historical areas of the city of Naples. It is Emilio Di Marzio and other illustrious guests who were welcomed lafigliadelpresidente.it the ideal place to enjoy true Neapolitan pizza, fresh seafood dishes and classic cuisine. Via Santa Brigida, by the new owners of the Neapolitan theatre, a team of industry PIZZA LA MASARDONA – The pizzeria helmed by Enzo Piccirillo has been a cult destination for “pizza fritta” 71/73. T: 0815524072 www.ciroasantabrigida.it professionals who, on 21 November, will treat audiences to a concert 50 KALÒ – Its name stems from the combination of since 1945. Via Capaccio Giulio Cesare. T: 081281057 CRU…Do RÈ – The art of raw fish. Its interiors are 50, which in the Cabala stands for bread, and the by Giuliano Palma. The theatre’s restaurant, managed by Terrazza inspired by the marine world. Piazza Vittoria, 11/12. T: Greek word Kalò, which means beautiful. Superlative LA NOTIZIA – Famed pizzeria owned by Enzo Coccia. 0817645295 www.crudore.it Calabritto, has also been revolutionized and enriched by a sushi pizza made by Ciro Salvo. Piazzetta Sannazzaro, Just pizza, from start to finish. Via Michelangelo da menu developed by Enrico Schettino of the renowned Giappo Teatro Posillipo 201/b. T: 08119204667 www.50kalò.it Caravaggio, 53/55. T: 0817142155 www.enzococcia.it DA ETTORE – Since 1914, this epic trattoria has been via Posillipo 66 - Naples serving classic Neapolitan fare. Via Gennaro Serra, 39. brand. A highly versatile, multi-functional space that can be enjoyed AL 22 – In a pictoresque street of Naples, in a corner of L’ARTE DELLA PIZZA – The pizzeria was fonde by T. 081 7691742 T: 0817643578 seven days a week. www.teatroposillipo.it the city made of sounds and colors, in a film of Totò the master pizza maker Gaetano Esposito who with and Eduardo De Filippo, you meet the pizzeria “Al his son Enzo continue sto de light Neapolitans and ECOMESARÀ – An array of tantalizing, sought-after 22”, which titled the name of the restaurant with the tourists with its tasty pizza and its artistic creations dishes and a welcoming ambience combine to number of his address. Via Pignasecca, 22, Naples. T: made with the dough. Via Santa Maria della Libera, 5, make diners feel completely at home. Via S. Chiara, wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples 0815522726 www.pizzeriaal22.it Naples. T: 0812411907 49. T: 08119259353 www.ecomesararistorante.it

32 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING

VESPA FOOD TASTING TOUR COAST&ISLANDS Where offers you the 10 rules to learn to NEW! AGLIO, OLIO E POMODORO – Via Luigi recognize the Real Neapolitan Pizza. Mazzella, 84, Ischia Ponte. T: 08119143460 www. Here is the seventh. Opening aglioolioepomodoro.com THE SEVENTH RULE FOR RECOGNIZE ALBERTO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 8, Ischia. THE REAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA T: 081981259 www.albertoischia.it AL CONVENTO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 63, Ischia. T: The pizza should be round, 081991335 www.ristorantealconvento.com with a diameter non greater than 35 cm, the AL CONVENTO – Piazza San Francesco, 16, Cetara. T: crust has to be puffed up, 089261039 www.alconvento.net while the center has to be max 4 mm thick. AL GROTTINO – Via Longano, 27, Capri. T: 0818370584 www.ristorantealgrottino.net Discover the ten rules to recognize real Neapolitan A’ PARANZA – Via Dragone, Positano. T: 089871840 pizza at www.wherenaples.com LA FIGLIA DEL >> An original, immersive experience amidst alleyways, aromas, www.ristoranteparanza.com PRESIDENTE guided tasting sessions and memorable meetings with pizza makers, ATTIMO DI VINO – Via Porto, 103/105, Ischia. T: 08119528411 DA GIGINO – Via degli Archi, 15, Sorrento. T: A Temple of Neapolitan pastry makers and local artisans to learn about the secrets of their 0818773446 www.dagigino.com art and the history of the famed gastronomic tradition of Naples. AURORA – Via Fuorlovado, 18-22, Capri. T: Pizza 0818370181 www.auroracapri.com DA GIOIA – Località Marina Piccola, Capri. T: An opportunity to discover unknown places and savour the best 0818377702 www.dagioiacapri.com culinary specialities of Naples on board either a Vespa or a vintage NATURASÌ AURORA – Piazza Tasso 10/11, Sorrento. T: 0818781248 www.pizzeriaaurora.com DA GIORGIO – Via Roma, 34, Capri. T: 0818375777 Fiat 500, accompanied by expert drivers and bi-lingual city guides. Galleria Vanvitelli, 7/9, Naples www.dagiorgiocapri.com T: 08118893010 - 08118893011 BAGNI D’ARIENZO – Via Arienzo, 16, Positano. T: Daily. Booking required. Duration: 4 hours DA LEOPOLDO – Via Scannella, 12, Forio, Ischia. T: 089812002 www.bagnidarienzo.com www.napolinvespa.it www.naturasi.it 081907086 www.ristorantedaleopoldo.it BAGNI DELFINO – Via Marina Grande, 216, Sorrento. D’AMORE – Via Fuorlovado, 36, Capri. T: 0818370665 T: 0818782038 GRAN GUSTO – A market, restaurant, wine bar and LA TAVERNA DEL BUONGUSTAIO – Simple in Italy. Piazza Vittoria, 1. T: 0812405188 www. www.damorecapri.com bar. A gastronomic hub where gourmands can wooden tables and chairs, wax table cloths and BAGNI TIBERIO – Palazzo a Mare, 46, Capri. T: terrazzacalabritto.it DA PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: sample premium-quality products and experience a low-fuss, white tiled dining room. Serves a 0818377688 www.bagnitiberio.com 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com a true love of cuisine. Via Marina, 5. T: 08119376800 delightful array of daily specials. Vico Basilio Puoti, 8. TRATTORIA DELL’OCA – Refined yet relaxed, this BAIA DEL CLIPPER – Via Porto, 48, Ischia. T: Cacialli’s family is one of the best known in www.gran-gusto.it T: 0815512626 welcoming trattoria celebrates beautifully cooked DA PEPPINA DI RENATO – Via Montecorvo, 42, Forio, 0813334209 www.ristorantelabaiadelclipperischia. the pizza; Maria is the daughter of Ernesto, classics upgraded with an innovative twist. Via Ischia. T: 081998312 www.trattoriadapeppina.it IL CELLAIO – The ideal spot to eat high-quality meat, LA TAVERNA DELL’ARTE – Don Alfonso re-proposes Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 11. T: 081414865 www. com the pizza maker who prepared the pizza for savour fine wines and discover sought-after cheeses. ancient 17th century recipes at this pretty, homely DA TONINO – Via Dentecala, Capri. T: 0818376718 trattoriadelloca.it BARRACUDA – Via Campagnano, 62, Ischia. T: Via Carlo Poerio, 54. T: 0817641380 www.ilcellaio.com restaurant. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1. T: Bill Clinton. She manages a place of rustic 081902046 www.ristorantebarracuda.it DA VINCENZO – Viale Pasitea, 172/178, Positano. T: 081552758 LA CAMPAGNOLA – Typical Neapolitan cuisine UMBERTO – Umberto’s menu is rich and varied with 089875128 www.davincenzo.it atmosphere and elegant at the same time. since1946. Designed to seat up to about 50 diners, LE COLONNE – The ideal setting for a cuisine that its main section built on traditional Neapolitan BELLEVUE SYRENE – Piazza della Vittoria, 5, Don’t miss the fried and the other pizza, all DIVINA SORRENTO – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 18, it has been spruced up with local art and offers a does not escape the challenges of the great dishes recipes. Seasonal variations are made throughout Sorrento. T: 0818781024 www.bellevue.it Sorrento. T: 0818781883 rigorously prepared at the time. number of lip-licking pasta dishes. Via Tribunali, 47. T: of Italian and international cuisine, as well as offering the year, the traditional Neapolitan pizza menu and BIANCO SUSHIBAR – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 38, 081459034 typical dishes from Campania. Viale G. Douhet, 7, the exquisite family atmosphere all form part of the Sorrento. T: 0818074551 www.biancosorrento.com DONNA RACHELE – Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis, >> Via Grande Archivio 23/24 Caserta. T: 0823467494 www.lecolonnemarziale.it Umberto identity. Via Alabardieri, 30. T: 081418555 Capri. T: 0818375387 www.donnarachele,com 80138 - Napoli LA CANTINELLA – Founded in 1976 by Giorgio BRUNO – Via Colombo, 157, Positano. T: 089875392 www.umberto.it Phone +39 081.081286738 Rosolino, its name has become a byword with LEON D’ORO – Tradition, meticulous service and www.ristorantebruno.org DON PEDRO – Via Nastro Verde, 77, Sorrento. T: www.lafigliadelpresidente.it gourmands in the know. Via Cuma, 42, Santa Lucia. T: innovation are the key words of its cuisine. Piazza VALÙ – Standouts at this charming, low-key restaurant 0818073910 www.ristorantedonpedro.it 0817648684 www.lacantinella.it Dante, 48. T: 0815499404 BUCA DI BACCO – Via Longano, 35, Capri. T: featuring soft lighting and live music are char-grilled 0818370723 È DIVINO – Via Sella Orta, 10/A, Capri. T: 0818378364 LA CHITARRA – A dozen tables, terracotta flooring, LOCANDA ‘NTRETELLA – Set within the heart of meat, risotto and an astute selection of fine wines. www.edivinocapri.com a guitar on the wall and a warm welcoming Vico Lungo del Gelso, 80. T: 0810381139 BUCA DI BACCO – Via Rampa Teglia, 4, Positano. T: the Spanish District, it tempts diners into a warm, EDODÈ – Via Camerelle, 83, Capri. T: 081838 8252. PIZZERIA GORIZIA atmosphere. This cosy osteria dishes up traditional 089875699 www.bucadibacco.it typically Neapolitan atmosphere. Salita S. Anna di www.valu.it www.edodecapri.com food prepared with local, strictly seasonal Palazzo. T: 081427783 www.locandantretella.it CAMERA E CUCINA – Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T: Eating well ingredients. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1 b. T: VERITAS RESTAURANT – Only serves products of FARAGLIONI – Via Camerelle, 75, Capri. T: MATTOZZI EUROPEO – Traditional Neapolitan 0818773530 www.cameraecucina.it 081 5529103 www.osterialachitarra.it Campanian origin. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141. T: 0818370320 www.faraglioni.com is a tradition cuisine since 1930. Not only the finest Mediterranean 081660585 www.veritasrestaurant.it CAPRI GARDEN – Via Roma, 50, Capri. T: 0818370003 LA STANZA DEL GUSTO – Quirky, brightly-coloured cuisine and pizza but also courteous, highly FLUORO – Via Fluoro, 21/23, Sorrento. T: 0818774840 tables and chairs decorate the dining room ZI’ TERESA – Frescoed walls and ancient majolica-tiled CAPRI’S – Via Roma, 38, Capri. T: 0818377108 www. attentive service. Via Marchese Campodisola, 4/8. T: FUNICOLARE – Piazza Armando Diaz, Capri. T: whose walls are covered with large blackboards capris.it 0815521323 www.mattozzieuropeo.com floors. This delightful venue boasts an evocative 0818370363 featuring famous quotes and thoughts for the MIMÌ ALLA FERROVIA – Established in1944 by terrace overlooking the wharf of Santa Lucia. Via CASA E BOTTEGA – Via Pasitea, 100, Positano. T: day. Via Costantinopoli, 100 T: 081401578 www. Borgo Marinari, 1. T: 0817642565 www.ziteresa.it 089875225 GIARDINO EDEN – Via Nuova Cartaromana, 68, lastanzadelgusto.it Emilio Giugliano (Mimì) and his wife Ida. This Ischia. T: 081985015 www.giardinoedenischia.it no-frills trattoria was formerly patronized by the CHANTECLER’S – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 38, likes of Totò, De Filippo and Federico Fellini. Via Sorrento. T: 0818075868 www.chanteclers.com GIORGIO AL CUCCIOLO – Via La Fabbrica, 52, Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. T: 0815538525 www. Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371917 FRY SHOPS CHEZ BLACK – Via del Brigantino, 19/21, Positano. T: mimiallaferrovia.it GRADOLA – Via Gradola, Anacapri, Capri. T: ANTICA FRIGGITORIA SPACCANAPOLI – Its fried 089875036 www.chezblack.it 0818382326 www.gradolacapri.com NAPOLI MIA – Welcoming, elegant and low-key: a food is served in a classical “coppetiello”, a paper cone style reflected in its cuisine boasting delectable, COCÒ – Piazzale Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081981823 The pizza is the queen of the menu but you designed to absorb excess fat. Via Benedetto Croce, I GIARDINI DI TASSO – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, mouth watering dishes where no detail has been left 42. T: 3473357240 COVO DEI SARACENI – Via Regina Giovanna, 5, 30, Sorrento. T: 0818074145 can also enjoy the first dish home-made, to chance. Riviera di Chiaia, 269. T: 0815522266 www. Positano. T: 089875878 www.covodeisaraceni.it ristorantenapolimia.it CHIPSTAR – Only fresh, Dutch potatoes cut and fried IL BORGO – Via Nastro Verde, 44/46, Sorrento. T: the local fresh fish and all the flavors of DA CICCIO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 32, Ischia. T: while you wait. More than 16 garnishes. Via Scarlatti, 0818781827 www.ristoranteilborgo.it the region. You will be conquered by our OSTERIA LA MATTONELLA – Just one room 081991686 adorned by long wooden tables and benches. Its 186. IL BRACCONIERE – Via Falanga, Serrara Fontana, pastas cooked in a wood oven. These are DA COSTANTINO – Via Corvo, 107, Positano. T: Ischia. T: 081999436 walls are covered with old, hand-painted Neapolitan FIORENZANO – Renowned for all types of fried fare. just some of the specialties that we offer to tiles. Via Nicotera, 13. T: 081416541 089875738 www.dacostantino.net Via Pignasecca, 14. T: 3497810146 IL BUCO – Seconda rampa Marina Piccola, 5, our customers in a friendly atmosphere and ROSIELLO – Founded in1933 by Gelsomina Rosiello, DA GABRISA – Via Pasitea, 221, Positano. T: Sorrento. T. T: 0818782354 www.ilbucoristorante.it family. FRIARIELLI. Turnip tops and a variety of the its time-honoured recipes have been handed down FRIGGITORIA VOMERO – Owned by the Acunzo 089811498 www.vilagabrisa.it family, this legendary snack bar makes some of the IL GERANIO – Via Giacomo Matteotti, 8, Capri. T: broccoli family. Often cooked in a pan, the from generation to generation. Via Santo Strato, 10. T: DA GAETANO – Via Delle Ginestre, 27, Ischia. T: 0818370616 www.geraniocapri.com >> Via Albino Albini, 18/20 (Trav. Via Cilea) best deep-fried snacks in town. Via Cimarosa, 44. T: steam given off by their water is sufficient to 0815752341 www.ristoranterosiello.it 081991807 www.pizzadagaetano.it 80127 – Napoli 0815783130 IL GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI – Corso Tel: +39 081.5604642 cook them. An excellent accompaniment to TERRAZZA CALABRITTO – A not-to-be-missed DA GELSOMINA – Via Migliara, 72, Anacapri, Capri. T: Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081991150 www. www.pizzeriagorizia.it sausages. experience: authentic dishes and flavours further TUTINO – Famed for its “a libretto” (folded) pizza. Via 0818371499 www.dagelsomina.com giardinodegliaranci.it enhanced by one of the most beautiful views della Solitaria, 34. T: 0817645259

34 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 35 DINING [ DINING]

IL LEONE ROSSO – Via Marziale, 25, Sorrento. T: LE AGAVI – Via Marconi, 127, Positano. T: 089875733 POSA POSA – Viale Pasitea, 165, Positano. T: Typical products of the Sannio 0818073089 www.illeonerosso.it www.agavi.it 0898122377 www.hotelposaposa.com IL MELOGRANO – Via G. Mazzella, 110, Ischia. T: LE GOURMET À LA CARTE – Lungomare C. POSEIDON – Via Pasitea, 148, Positano. T: 089811111 A trip in discovery of ancient flavours 081998450 www.ilmelogranoischia.it Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081991544 www.hotelposeidonpositano.it IL MONASTERO – Castello Aragonese, Ischia. T: LE GROTTELLE – Via Arco Naturale, Capri. T: PULDÌ – Via degli Aranci, 13 b/c, Sorrento. T: 081992435 www.albergoilmonastero.it 0818375719 0818074038 IL PIRATA – Via Terramare, Praiano. T: 089874377 www. LE GROTTELLE – Via Zatri, 3, Sorrento. www. PUPETTO – Via Fornillo, 35, Positano. T: ristoranteilpirata.net agriturismosorrentolegrottelle.com 089875087www.hotelpupetto.it PIETRAROJA HAM IL POZZO – Via Tasso, 32, Sorrento. T: 0818774876 LE SIRENE – Via Spiaggia Laurito, 24, Positano. T: The Sannio is an ancient RENDEZ VOUS – Via Camerelle, 4, Capri. T: Naturally dried at 830 metres and seasoned with www.ilpozzoristorante.it 089811580 www.lesirenepositano.com 0818370788 www.quisisana.com area rich in valleys and hills black pepper and hot chili pepper, it is ideal as a IL QUISI – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: 0818370788 www. LE TERRAZZE – Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T: RICCIULILLO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, bite-sized appetizer. quisisana.com 089875874 www.leterrazzerestaurant.it covered with olives groves and Ischia. T: 081993679 www.ricciulillo.it Lightly salted and aromatized, it has a particularly IL RICCIO – Via Gradola 4/6, Loc. Grotta Azzurra. LE TRE SORELLE – Via del Brigantino, 27, Positano. T: vineyards interspersed with soft texture. Anacapri, Capri www.capripalace.com 089875452 www.ristoranteletresorelle.it RUCCIO – Piazza Marinai d’Italia, Sorrento. T: Its slightly smoked flavour depends on the 0818074069 www.ristoranteruccio.com IL RITROVO – Via Montepertuso, 77. Loc. LIDO DEL FARO – Località Punta Carena, Capri. T: small towns. essences used during the smoking procedure Montepertuso, Positano. T: 089812005 www.ilritrovo. 0818371798 www.lidofaro.com SACRO E PROFANO – Via Tasso, 53, Sorrento. T: ww.prosciuttoilpietraroja.it com 08119004857 www.sacroeprofanosorrento.it Here traditions and genuine country LI GALLI – Viale Pasitea, 318, Positano. T: 089875655 IL SARACENO D’ORO – Via Pasitea, 254, Positano. T: www.villafrancahotel.it SANTA CROCE – Via Nocelle, 19, Positano. T: cooking have withstood the test of 089812050 www.saracenodoro.it 089811260 www.ristorantesantacrocepositano.com LO GUARRACINO – Via Positanesi d’America, 12, time. The area boasts a wide array of IL SOLITARIO – Via G. Orlandi, Anacapri, Capri. T: Positano. T: 089875488 www.loguarracino.net SOUL&FISH DA CATALDO – Via Marina Grande, 202, STREGA LIQUEUR 0818371382 www.trattoriailsolitario.it Sorrento. T: 0818782170 enogastronomic products renowned L’OLIMPO – Via Falanga, 7, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: Made from herbs, it has been produced since 1860 IL TORCHIO – Via Campagnano, 135, Ischia. T: www.ristorantedacataldo.com 081999566 by the Strega Alberti Distellery in Benevento using 081901986 www.hotelristoranteiltorchio.it for their time-honoured qualities LO SCOGLIO DELLE SIRENE – Via Mulo, 77, Capri. T: SPICY – Via Capo, 82, Sorrento. T: 0818079063 www. a secret recipe. Its yellow color comes from the ISIDORO – Via Roma, 19, Capri. T: 0818377252 www. 0818370221 www.loscogliodellesirenecapri.com hotelspicy.com whose virtues have been passed presence of saffron in its recipe. isidorocapri.com It has a 40% alcohol content and is made using LO SMERALDO – Via Marina Grande, 12, Capri. T: SQUARE – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 47, Sorrento. T: down from generation to generation. KUKAI CAPRI – Via Listrieri, 7, Capri. T: 0818370498 0818375072 0818074744 some 70 different herbs, including mint and www.kukai.it fennel. L’OSTRICARO – Via Porto, 40, Ischia. T: 081981845 STELLA MARIS – Via della Regione, 2, Capri. T: LA BASILICA – Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Sorrento. T: www.ristoranteostricaro.it 089872463 0818774790 www.ristorantelabasilica.com LO ZODIACO – Piazzetta Angelo Ferraro, 2, Capri. T: TASSO – Via Correale, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818785809 L’ABATE – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 24, Sorrento. T: 0818376332 www.lozodiacocapri.com 0818072304 www.labatesorrento.it www.ristorantetasso.com THE NOUGAT LUIGI AI FARAGLIONI – Via Faraglioni, 5, Capri T: LA CAMBUSA – Piazza Vespucci, 4, Positano. T: TAVERNA ALLEGRA – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 30, OF SAN MARCO DEI CAVOTI ARTICHOKES FROM PIETRELCINA 0818370591 www.luigiaifaraglioni.com 089812051 www.lacambusapositano.com Sorrento. T: 0818784221 www.tavernallegra.com A crunchy blend of prime quality almonds Tender and boasting a sweet, delicate flavour, LUNA – Viale Matteotti, 3, Capri. T: 0818370433 www. and hazelnuts covered with an ultra-fine dark these artichokes are used to prepare any number LA CANZONE DEL MARE – Via Marina Piccola, 93, TERRAZZA BOSQUET – Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento. lunahotel.com chocolate. of mouth watering dishes. Capri. T: 0818370104 www.lacanzonedelmare.com TERRAZZA BRUNELLA – Via Tragara, 24, Capri. T: MAMMA GIOVANNA – Via Chiusarano, 6, Capri. T: This delicacy is a true precursor of the small The plant produces buds known as ‘carducci’ LA CAPANNINA – Via Le Botteghe, 14, Capri. T: 0818370122 www.terrazzabrunella.com 0818372057 hazelnut-filled chocolate renowned throughout which are in great demand especially at Christmas 0818370732 www.capanninacapri.com TERRAZZA MARZIALE – Piazza F.S. Gargiulo, 2, the world under the ‘Baci’ trademark because they serve as the main ingredients of a MAMMÀ – Via Madre Serafina, 11, Capri. T: LA COLOMBAIA – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: Sorrento. T: 0818074406 www.terrazzamarziale.com www.borrillo.it local dish known as ‘il cardone’. 0818370788 www.quisisana.com 0818377472 www.ristorantemamma.com TERRAZZA TIBERIO – Via Croce, 11/15, Capri. T: MARINCANTO – Via Colombo, 50, Positano. T: LA FONTELINA – Via Faraglioni, Capri. T: 0818370845 0819787850 www.capritiberiopalace.it www.fontelina-capri.com 089875130 www.marincanto.it MICHEL’ANGELO – Via Sella Orta, 10, Capri. T: TORRE NORMANNA – Via Diego Taiani, 4, Maiori. T: LA LANTERNA – Via San Cesareo, 23, Sorrento. T: 089877100 www.torrenormanna.net 0818781355 www.lalanternasorrento.it 0818377220 TORRE SARACENA – Via Marina Piccola, Capri. T: L’ALTRO VISSANI – Via Longano, 3, Capri. T: MONZÙ (PUNTA TRAGARA HOTEL) – Via Tragara, 57, LATICAUDA PECORINO 0818370646 www.torresaracenacapri.com 08118990575 www.laltrovissanicapri.it Capri. T: 0818370844 www.monzucapri.it It takes its name from the breed of sheep with MUSEO CARUSO – Via S. Antonino, 12, Sorrento. T: TRITONE – Via Campo, 5, Positano. T: 089874333 whose milk it is made. It has a hard, firm rind, L’ANTICA TRATTORIA – Via P.R. Giuliani, 33, Sorrento. yellowy-orange in colour. Its body is tender and T: 0818071082 www.lanticatrattoria.com 0818073156 www.ristorantemuseocaruso.com www.tritone.it ivory-white in colour. L’ARCA – Via Ciglio, 144, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T: NAIMA LOUNGE BAR – Via P.R. Giuliani, 45, Sorrento. UN PIANO NEL CIELO – Via Capriglione, 17, Praiano. It has a mouth-filling, slightly tangy flavour and an T: 0818781425 www.naimaloungebar.it 081904226 www.ristorantelarca.it T: 0898131333 www.unpianonelcielo.it intense pungent nose. LA SPONDA – Via Colombo, 30, Positano. T: NEXT 2 – Viale Pasitea, 242, Positano. T: 0898123516 VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11, Sorrento. T: This type of cheese is best eaten when mature. 089875066 www.sirenuse.it www.next2.it 0818781144 www.ristorantevelabianca.com LA TAGLIATA – Via Tagliata, 22, Positano. T: 089875872 ‘O CANONICO 1898 – Piazza Tasso, 7, Sorrento. T: VERDEMARE – Via Capo, 70, Sorrento. T: 0818782589 www.latagliata.com 0818783277 www.ristorantecanonico.com www.ristoranteverdemare.com LA TAVERNA DEL LEONE – Via Laurito, 43, Positano. ‘O CAPURALE – Viale Regina Giovanna, 12, Positano. VILLA RUBINACCI – Via Correale, 25, Sorrento. T: T: 0898123168 www.latavernadelleone.com T: 089811188 www.ocapuralepositano.com 0818073357 www.villarubinacci.it WINE ‘O MURZILL – Via dell’Accademia, 17, Sorrento. T: Aglianico, Piedirosso, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe, LA TERRA – Via Tagliata, 14, Positano. T: 089811179 VILLA VERDE – Vico Sella Orta, 6/A, Capri. T: 0810202371 www.omurzill.blogspot.it www.ristorantelaterra.com 0818377024 www.villaverde-capri.com Fiano and Moscato di Baselice are just some LA TINAIA – Via Matteo Verde, 39, Forio, Ischia. T: www. ‘O PURTICCIULL – Rive Droite, Ischia. T: 081993222 examples of Sannio’s wine-growing heritage. Ten WINE DARK HOUSE – Via del Saracino, 6/8, Positano. ristorantelatinaia.it www.porticciullo.it thousand hectares of vineyards, three DOC and T: 089811925 one IPG (Protected Geographic Indication) for PALAZZO MURAT – Via dei Mulini, 23, Positano. T: LA TONNARELLA – Via Capo, 31, Sorrento. T: more than sixty types of wines which make the 0818781153 www.latonnarella.com 089875177 www.palazzomurat.it ZI NANNINA – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 18, Ischia. T: 081991350 www.zinannina.com province of Benevento a leader in Campania’s wine- LA VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11/13, PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T: producing sector ZI’NTONIO – Via Luigi De Maio, 11, Sorrento. T: Sorrento. T: 08187881144 www.ristorantevelabianca. 0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com www.sanniodop.it com 0818781623 www.zintonio.it PETER’S BEACH – Via San Francesco, Marina Piccola, LA VIGNA DI ALBERTO – Via Garibaldi, 57, Ischia. T: Porto di Sorrento. T: 0818781879 www.petersbeach. ZIQÙ – Via Provinciale Marina Grande, 191, Capri. T: 081901193 com 0818376630 www.villamarinacapri.com

36 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 37 DINING | WINE EMOTION THE MOST REPRESENTATIVE LABELS

occasions during which there innate elegance Il Sasso di Riccardo Il Fastignano and intensity can be savoured to the full. Why Contrary to common belief, Fastignano, a highly original not try them, for example, as connoisseurs do not all sweet wines are white. Passito made from Primitivo For example, a sweet, full- grapes is only produced very in France, with cheese or fatty calves liver, or bodied, original sweet red rarely, not only for the small even as an aperitivo option. wine is produced from the quantity of juice which can First and foremost, a sweet wine should not black Casavecchia grape. be obtained from the grapes, be too sweet. It should be fresh and have The varietal has mysterious but also for the difficulties found during the kind of complexity that makes one want origins: some identify it with the grape production, from vineyard to the bottle. to drink it. However, very few sweet wines that gave life to the ancient Trebulano, Antonio Papa has made a creed of the considered one of Italy’s finest wines by selection of the grapes of this varietal which actually have these characteristics! As always, Plinius. The Casavecchia-based Sasso di is powerful and particularly well-suited to everything starts in the vineyard. Not all Riccardo di Terre del Principe is a truly the production of sweet wines. Fastignano varietals are suited to making a noble sweet delicious wine that pairs well either with is sweet but not overwhelmingly sugary, wine. the Conciato Romano pecorino cheese, a meditation wine boasting a strong Not only must the grapes must be extremely made specifically to be paired with it by the personality. A gourmand companion to healthy but often wine-makers do not have beautiful Le Campestre agritourism, or with be drunk either on its own or paired with the certainty that they will be able to be other types of soft cheeses. chocolate profiteroles or a slice of Sacher Torte. produced on a yearly basis owing to the Il Privilegio complex production process involved. A perfect example of freshness, Giardini Arimei Having said this, to preserve the acid balance and drinkability. The A complex wine-making backbone of the grapes, it is necessary to Privilegio produced by Feudi project conceived by an harvest them or cut their shoots (so that di San Gregorio, one of Irpinia’s enologist who loves Ischia, they begin to shrivel on the vine) at exactly premier winemaking estates his birthplace of origin. Made the right moment: either early or on several with headquarters in Sorbo from Biancolella, Forastera and Serpico and vineyards scattered Uva Rilla grapes, this ‘ wine from the area occasions. throughout Campania, instantly of ‘hot springs’ is an original gem. Never The rest depends on the techniques wins over connoisseurs sweet, Giardini Arimei, produced on the employed at the winery: the slow, natural with its elegant, transparent Island by the Muratori family, shows how drying process of the grapes designed to bottle which contains a clear, yellow unexpected tastes can be obtained from increase the sugar concentration, the style of gold liquid. The luminosity of this sweet harvesting grapes at different times of the vinification and the use of specific types of wine made primarily from Fiano grapes is year. It is sweet but also dry, extremely proportionate to its taste. Rich, sweet and well-balanced and highly versatile when it wood. fragrant yet balanced with acidity, it has comes to pairings. As suggested by pastry Lastly, the ageing process in bottles which a delightfully clean finish. This wine can maker Claudio Mignone or Executive helps them develop more complexity. either be paired with the area’s traditional Chef Mario Avallone it serves as a perfect Our sweet wine should be served in a Christmas Susamielli cookies or with a accompaniment to either renowned small glass with a narrow mouth, so that its Caciocavallo cheese, matured in caves in Neapolitan cake - pastiera napoletana - or bouquet can be savoured to the full. Irpinia. fresh Cacio cheese. his month we will be focusing on a category of truly special wines, also known as Sweet meditation wines. We are here referring to sweet wines, i.e. those commonly drunk at the end of a meal. Campania Sadly, I must confess that, in Italy, these The best sweet wines of the region should be drunk winesT are not as fully appreciated as they should be. This in smaller glasses in order to allow us to savour their is especially true of the South whose hot climate tends to bouquets and linger (read meditate) over their elegance increase their sugar and alcohol content. Southerners are not particularly fond of sweet wines. In fact, as far as the Neapolitans are concerned, the best accompaniment to a dessert is coffee! Each wine has a sense as long as it can be paired with Monica Piscitelli something. If we only consider drinking sweet wines as an food and wine blogger accompaniment to dessert, we tend to limit the number of

38 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 39 DINING ENTERTAINMENT

Five star flavors The top restaurants of five star hotels in Naples and on the Coast&Islands

HOTEL BELMOND CARUSO, BELVEDERE – and delicacy of its marine surroundings. Lungomare C. Chef Andrea Migliaccio creates cuisine in a modern Renowned for its excellent menu featuring fresh Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081.991544 www.puntamolino.it interpretation of the traditional flavours of the regione. Mediterranean specialities, the Belvedere restaurant Via Capodimonte, 2/b, Anacapri (Na). GRAND HOTEL VESUVIO, CARUSO – Dedicated to has an elegant dining room, a beautiful terrace and an T: 0819780111 www.capripalace.com Enrico Caruso, a loyal patron of the hotel who liked to outdoor area, near the swimming pool, surrounded by define it as “my Neapolitan home” and who spent the HOTEL LE SIRENUSE, LA SPONDA – Boasting 1 an old rose garden. Chef Mimmo di Raffaele amazes last years of his life here after his return to Naples. Via Michelin star, in the evening this restaurant is illuminated diners with his delectably refined creations. Piazza San Partenope, 45, Naples. T: 081.7640044 www.vesuvio.it by four hundred candles. Its cuisine is based on the Giovanni del Toro, 2, Ravello. T: 089858800 quality of locally sourced ingredients and is inspired by www.hotelcaruso.it HOTEL IL MORESCO, LA PERGOLA – Mediterranean Mediterranean tradition. Via San Sebastiano, 2, Positano. flavours are exalted by a light, sophisticated cuisine, T: 089875066 www.sirenuse.it CAESAR AUGUSTUS, LA TERRAZZA DI LUCULLO – A created thanks to the use of authentic ingredients date with infinity: a spectacular swimming pool, a table distinguished by a highly sought-after delicate flavour. HOTEL REGINA ISABELLA, INDACO – A gourmet for two and beyond, only the sea, the Gulf of Naples and Via Gianturco, 16, Ischia. T: 081.981355 www.ilmoresco.it restaurant where the innovative, creative cuisine of chef Vesuvius. Via G. Orlandi, 4, Anacapri, Capri. Pasquale Palamaro pays a new tribute to the culinary T: 081.8373385 www.caesar-augustus.com HOTEL ROMEO, IL COMANDANTE – At this gourmet restaurant, hints of the East and Mediterranean flavours tradition of Campania, cited in the 2013 Michelin guide. DON ALFONSO 1890 – In a stunning 19th century blend harmoniously in the menu prepared by Michelin Piazza Santa Restituta, 1, Lacco Ameno, Ischia. Neapolitan palace, the design-inspired ambience of starred Chef Salvatore Bianco. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45. T: 081.994322 www.reginaisabella.com the restaurant features a vibrant colour palette exalted T: 0810175001 www.romeohotel.it HOTEL SAN PIETRO, ZASS – At this venue featuring a by the natural light of the Mediterranean sea. Corso HOTEL ROMEO, SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Guests spectacular view over the town of Praiano and the coast, Sant’Agata, 11-13, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker serves an array of delectable T: 081.8780026 www.donalfonso.com can either dine at the restaurant’s gorgeous arabesque marble counter or at their own private tables. Suffused dishes accompanied by an excellent selection of fine GRAND HOTEL COCUMELLA – The hotel offers guests lighting, ivory and ebony chopsticks, silverware, bone wines. Via Laurito, 2, Positano. two restaurants: the “Agrumeto”, nestling amidst orange china and crystal glassware are just some of the T: 089875455 www.ilsanpietro.it groves and the various botanical rarities of the age-old exclusive elements that heighten the dining experience. LA SCALINATELLA HOTEL – Typical Capri fare served park surrounding it and the “Scintilla”, where diners The menu features authentic Japanese cuisine prepared at the edge of the swimming pool with a stunning view Welcome to the Naples Zoo! can savour all the flavours of traditional Mediterranean according to time-honoured culinary techniques. Via over the Bay of Marina Piccola. The Maitre offers the cuisine in a warm, intimate atmosphere. Via Cocumella, Cristoforo Colombo, 45, Naples. T: 08101175001 www. dishes of the day, always prepared using fresh, locally It is one of the oldest zoological gardens in Italy. Home to more than 400 animal species, it is also a 7, Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 081.8782933 romeohotel.it sourced, seasonal ingredients. Via Tragara, 8, Capri. T: www.cocumella.com botanical garden and a recreational centre for families HOTEL TERME MANZI, IL MOSAICO – Renowned Chef 081.8370633 www.lascalinatella.com GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR TERME – A stylish, elegant Nino Di Costanzo tempts diners into an atmosphere of MEZZATORRE RESORT E SPA – The hotel has pened to the public in 1949, the Naples and exotic species including Ginko Biloba of in terms of educating people about nature restaurant surrounded by a large panoramic terrace. A rare elegance with his classical Ischian and Campanian two restaurants: the “Chandelier”, sophisticated and Zoo was one of the first zoological Chinese origin, boasting small, fan-shaped and the environment, with projects dedicated fare upgraded with an innovative twist. Piazza Bagni, perfect blend of superior-quality ingredients and refined intriguing, and Sciuè”, offering fabulous sunset views gardens in Italy to welcome visitors. leaves but also various Magnolia SPP species, to scientific research and the preservation of 4, Casamicciola Terme, Ischia. T: 081994722 www. O culinary techniques. Via E. Gianturco, 19, Ischia. over the Ischian sea and the swimming pool. Via Situated in the city centre, in Fuorigrotta, the of Chinese, Japanese and American origin biodiversity. One such example is its ‘Adopt T: 081.991522 www.excelsiorischia.it termemanzihotel.com Mezzatorre, 23, Forio d’Ischia. T: 081.986111 Zoo hosts more than 400 animal species, and bamboo originating from Asia. And an animal’ initiative which offers people the GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA, TERRAZZA IL BUCO – A sought-after, elegant atmosphere featuring www.mezzatorre.it including various species in danger of then again, near the lake, visitors can admire possibility of adopting an animal from the BOUSQUET – The Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant traditional tastes and flavours upgraded to create PARCO DEI PRINCIPI, Ristorante GIO PONTI – The extinction. Here you can admire Samiango, Casuarina Equisetifolia, a she-oak species Zoo, thus giving them an opportunity to headed up by Michelin starred Chef Luigi Tramontano innovative, delicious dishes. Seconda rampa Marina restaurant extends over a large, seaview terrace from offers an elegant combination of regional and Piccola, 5, Sorrento.T: 0818782354 which diners can enjoy a stunning view over the Gulf of lemurs, tigers, parrots, binturong, camels, whose foliage consists of slender branches come into close contact with their favourite Mediterranean cuisine, using fresh, local produce www.ilbucoristorante.it Naples. Via Rota, 44, Sorrento. T: 081.8784644 zebras and Chital deer but also lots of birds, and hanging fruit resembling conifer cones. animal species: an intelligent way of teaching including a variety of citrus fruits from the hotel’s own IL FARO DI CAPO D’ORSO – A small gem boasting www.royalgroup.it/parcodeiprincipi including emus, ostriches, grey crowned Additionally, near the area housing the lions, children about nature and instilling them with orange grove. Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento. T: 0818777836 interiors decorated with hand-painted majolica ceramics PALAZZO AVINO, ROSSELLINIS – The recipient of 1 cranes, pink flamingoes and stalks. Inside, an you will also find Cinnamomum Camphora, a sense of love for animals. Other highlights www.exvitt/bousquet and a breathtaking view. Via D. Taiani, 48, Maiori (Sa). T: Michelin stars, Palazzo Avino is considered one of the educational farm allows children to get close commonly known as the Camphor tree, a include gardens, play areas and loads of 089877022 www.ilfarodicapodorso.it GRAND HOTEL PARKER’S, GEORGE – Situated most evocative and romantic venues on the Amalfi to and pet all sorts of farm animals including large evergreen tree that grows up to 20–30 entertainment for young and old alike. on the roof garden of the Grand Hotel Parker's in HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, IL RICCIO – In a Mediterranean Coast. Via San Giovanni del Toro, 27, Ravello. geese, rabbits, goats and other domestic m tall. Naples, George offers a stunning view over the Gulf, atmosphere, sitting at blue wooden tables, you can www.palazzoavino.com sophisticated, stylish decor and a creative menu. Corso have lunch and dinner almost every hour of the day. The animals. The Naples Zoo is also an important Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 76, Naples. VILLA CIMBRONE, IL FLAUTO DI PAN – Chef Giovanni Vittorio Emanuele, 135, Naples. T: 081.7612474 restaurant is awarded with one star in the 2013 Michelin The zoo is also a botanical garden, a park recreational centre, especially for families and T: 08119363154 De Vivo has created an outstanding Mediterranean www.grandhotelparkers.it Guide. Via Gradola, 4/6, loc. Grotta Azzurra, Anacapri, menu featuring innovative flavours and a hint of the East brimming over with Mediterranean vegetation children. Moreover, it plays a significant role >> www.lozoodinapoli.it Capri. www.capripalace.com GRAND HOTEL PUNTA MOLINO TERME, PUNTA designed to delight the palates of discerning diners. Via MOLINO – A romantic restaurant overlooking the HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, L’OLIVO – Is the only restaurant Santa Chiara, 26, Ravello. sea whose decor and materials mirror the coolness on the island to be awarded with two Michelin stars. T: 089857459 www.villacimbrone.com wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples

40 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 41 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

here to enjoy its piano bar, disco and occasional squares in Naples and still retains all of its dreamy, shows or book presentations. Via dei Mille, 40bis. T: ENTERTAINMENT AND SCENES FROM AN ARCHIVE cabaret acts, partying till late. Via Parco Margherita, Belle Époque-like aura intact. A great place for 081410270 www.lamelaclub.it 13. T: 081407526 www.chezmoi.it a classy coffee break. Via Chiaia, 1/2, corner of LA SCIMMIA – Synonymous with high-quality ice TASTING EXPERIENCES piazza Trieste and Trento. T: 081417582 www. CLANDALU’ - A terrace overlooking the historic cream since 1933, in addition to its myriad flavours, 66 FUSION BAR - It still retains the name of the caffegambrinus.com Galleria Navarra. Credit for its inviting atmosphere former antique shop in which it is now housed. other must-trys include its frothy desserts and and soft music go to its charming owner GRAN CAFFÈ LA CAFFETTIERA – The favourite The Fusion cocktail bar is a real hit, loved for its traditional mini ice creams. Also serves gluten-free Alfredo. Featuring authentic, home-cooked fare, endless list of aperitivi. Furnished with low sofas haunt of businessmen and chic shoppers, this products for celiacs. Piazza Carità, 4; piazzetta Nilo, it has hosted meetings, presentations and art and soft lighting, it offers a wide choice of cold elegant venue is renowned for its high-class 4. T: 0815520272 www.gelateriadellascimmia.it exhibitions since 1997. Piazza dei Martiri, 23. T: cuts and excellent wines. Via Bisignano, 58. T: Neapolitan pastries and gastronomy. Boasting 0812452398 elegant design elements where no detail has been LA TASCA - A cosy, intimate wine bar where you can 081415024 – www.66napoli.it listen to soft, piped music. Also has a few outdoor CLU COFFEE&FOOD - A welcoming, cosy tea room left to chance, it is patronized by the crème de la AIAHII – One of the most exclusive venues in the tables and an Internet point. Vico Belledonne a by day, as evening approaches, it is transformed crème of Neapolitan society. Piazza dei Martiri, 26. city. Low-key, elegant, minimalist decor, featuring Chiaia, 6. T: 08119362635 into a trendy venue where the beautiful people T: 0817644243 www.grancaffelacaffettiera.com a prevalence of steel, glass, teak tables, original gather to enjoy either an aperitivo or an after- LAZZARELLA – A landmark venue of the lamps, ornamental plants and a predominantly IL BARETTO – A landmark venue situated in one dinner glass of rum. Its real attraction is its Neapolitan “movida”. Open until late at night, it white colour scheme. Offers a meat and fish- of the city’s most scenic areas, standouts include restaurant with open-plan kitchen boasting an serves breakfast, snacks, lunch and a fine aperitivo based menu, an array of international cocktails, its iconic “scherzetto” cocktail, made with rum, array of gastronomic delights and an excellent spread in the evening from around 7pm. Calata an excellent selection of rum and whiskey and pear juice and strawberry syrup poured into selection of fine wines. Via Carlo Poerio, 47. T: two glasses, one inside the other, to be drunk Trinità Maggiore, 7/8. T: 0815510005 an astute selection of wines. Via Coroglio, 146. T: 0817641576 www.clunapoli.com 3924811308 like a shot, i.e. all at once and its Acai special, a L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ – A brasserie-wine bar combo. fruit pulp sorbet, powdered guaranà, royal jelly, ENOTECA BELLEDONNE - Established in1989 by Only has a few tables but more than 1,200 fab ANHELO CAFÉ’ & BISTROT – Offers simple, Giovanni and Maria Scognamiglio as “Vini e Oli”, ice and ginseng. Via Aniello Falcone, 300 b/c. T: An unique performance staged by a company of young actors who re-enact one episode bottles. Better known for its reds than its whites. inventive, high-quality food including range of their offspring Antonio and Ciro subsequently 0815603200 that played a key role in the history of the city of Naples, namely the Republic of 1799. In “La Vico Vetriera, 9. T: 081400104 www.lebbrezzadinoe. classic, regional dishes updated with a innovative transformed this old wine cellar into one of Naples’ IL FICO – This discotheque is set within a splendid com twist, featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients. Anhelo Repubblica di Utopia”, two love affairs are intertwined with the tragic episodes of this historic best-loved wine bars where you can relax, gossip 19th century villa. Complete with inside rooms, is a cafè cum bistrot. Also boasts a small food event and two women, Luisa Sanfelice and Serafina Vargas, reclaim their right to building an and enjoy a glass of well-chosen, mostly Italian LE CIRQUE NAPLES – The first cafè-chantant emporium. Via Bisignano, 3 – T: 081.402432 www. welcoming private areas and a large terrace with a ideal nation based on the empowerment of women. wine. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18. T: 081403162 in Italy has just launched in the spaces of the anhelo.it view over the Gulf of Naples, it is the perfect place This ‘never-seen-before’ performance is the result of research conducted on documents www.enotecabelledonne.com foyer of the iconic Salone Margherita. Le Cirque to celebrate at all times of the yea. Via Tasso, 466. T: ARENILE RELOAD – Established in 1994 as the first is a coffee bar, a theatre, an art gallery and an housed in the Archives and were written on an exclusive basis for the Archive itself. FANTASIA GELATI – Few gelaterie can boast better 081640146 www.discotecailfico.it club in Naples with a dance floor overlooking the 19-20 November. Admission free, booking required. cream-based flavours produced with passion entertainment venue. It also features a bistrot beach, Arenile Reload is set against a breathtaking INTRA MOENIA - Founded in 1989 next to the Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli. via Tribunali, 213, Naples. T: 3396235295 and painstaking attention to locally sourced restaurant. Via Santa Brigida, 65. T: 0815511756 backdrop further enhanced by chic design ingredients. House specialities include fruit- Greek-Roman walls of piazza Bellini, from which www.lecirquenaples.com elements and a playlist of the latest hits. In the the venue takes its name, i.e. intra moenia or flavoured sorbets and its brand new innovative ice LEONE – A Liberty-style venue boasting a white morning, it serves as an elegant beach club with crumbles, cupcakes, plum cakes, brownies, muffins themselves as simple “sfogliatellari”. Via Casanova, cream made from buffalo milk, characterized by “inside the walls”. A stylish, elegant venue offering and pastel green colour scheme. Its walls are on-site amenities including a beach and a lawn and speciality cakes. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 14b. 97. T: 0815545364 www.carraturo.it its authentic flavour and wholesome nutritional food and wine, Intra Moenia also hosts exhibitions, adorned with old photographs. Its pastry chefs with a swimming pool, bar and refreshment T: 0814976400 properties. Five Fantasia Gelati sales points are literary events, concerts and poetry readings. CASA INFANTE – The Infante family began to start working at 4am to turn out their delectable area. As the sun sets, it is transformed into a scattered throughout the city. Via Toledo, 381. T: Piazza Bellini, 70. T: 081451652 “viby” location offering top-notch aperitivi and CAFFÈ ARABO – A good spot at which to sample titillate the palates of Neapolitans in the 1940s creations. Leone exudes an aura of old-world 0815511212 www.fantasiagelati.it LA GARÇONNE - The perfect place to spend live performances by artists of international tea, Arab sweet treats and a Middle-Eastern with their “tarallo mandorle e pepe”. In the ‘90s charm and is renowned for its authentic, simple an evening in the company of friends either renown. Via Coroglio, 14/b. T: 0810199156 www. nibble or two. At Caffè Arabo you can experience they enlarged their production to focus on high- GALLERIA 19 – This cool edgy club draws a uni ingredients. Riviera di Chiaia, 61. T: 081681542 savouring the superb cuisine prepared by its chef arenilereload.com a truly oriental atmosphere while smoking a quality patisserie, subsequently increasing their crowd and young Neapolitan locals. Set in a hookah. In summer, it hosts gastronomic events number of sales points. Today Casa Infante offers long, cavernous cellar scattered with recycled or enjoying an after-dinner drink animated by live LEOPOLDO - One of the most prestigious brands AZAR CAFÉ – Snack bar, delicatessen, bakery, bar accompanied by dance displays and poetry top-notch products and artisanal ice cream just furniture dating back to the ‘60s and ‘70s and or disco music. Vico S. Maria a Cappella Vecchia, of Neapolitan pastries, synonymous with all the and tea room. Surrounded by a beautiful garden, readings from different parts of the world. Piazza waiting to be savoured. Via Chiaia, 189. T: www. industrial lamps, the venue is also home to one 10. T: 0817643826 www.lagarconne.it goodness and supreme quality of an array of in the pedestrian area of Vomero, Azar cafè is a Bellini, 72, Naples. T: 3398828120 casainfante.it of the city’s best mixologists. Expect a warm, old- different products, ranging from sweet treats LA MELA - One of the oldest night club in Naples, meeting place for quiet and relaxing, ideal for world atmosphere. Via San Sebastiano, 18/19. T: to cakes, from fresh pasta to small gourmand CAFFÈ DEL PROFESSORE – At this cafè located CHALET CIRO A MERGELLINA – This iconic it has been going strong for the past 30 years. A business meetings or for mothers with children 08119810100 www.galleria19.it delicacies, a true labour of love! Via Toledo, 8. in one of the city’s most elegant districts you seaside chalet has been pulling in the punters favourite with the Neapolitan elite, people come looking for a safe place while enjoying a good cup T: 0815512909; via Vittoria Colonna, 46/47. T: can taste dozens of different coffee blends: from since its establishment in 1952. Boasting a GAY ODIN – By now synonymous with auteur here not only to dance but also to see fashion of coffee. Via Scarlatti, 139 – T: 0815780248 081416161 www.leopoldoinfante.it fennel to basil-flavoured coffee, from croccantino tradition handed down from generation to chocolate, it is impossible to pass this shop BARFLY – Formerly an old tuft quarry, this newly coffee to its famous rich hazelnut cream coffee generation, it has nevertheless also embraced without taking in the heady aromas of Gay Odin’s revamped restaurant and bar is the perfect place and, naturally, traditional Neapolitan espresso. innovation to become one of the most renowned artisanal cocoa creations displayed with panache LA TRAVIATA to enjoy an aperitivo or fab cocktail while nibbling Piazza Trieste e Trento, 46. T: 081403041 www. chalets in Campania. Listed in several of the most in its shop window. Must-trys include its typically on an array of delectable finger foods. Barfly was ilverobardelprofessore.com authoritative tourist guides, it sells everything Neapolitan chocolate “cozze” (mussels), chocolate- designed by architect Demo Ciavatti, known for from coffee and pastries to crepes but the real coated coffee beans and fiery chili-chocolate CAKE APPEAL – A small pastry shop with a big restructuring several of the most famous venues reason to head here is for brioche con gelato, combo. The venue has as many as ten sales points reputation serving made-to-order cakes, cupcakes, on the Romagnola Riviera. Via Mergellina, 6 T: a sweetened bun stuffed with ice cream and scattered throughout the city. Via V. Colonna, macarons, cakepops, cookies, brownies, red velvet, 081.660023 – topped with a dollop of cream. Via Mergellina. T: 15/b. T: 081418282 www.gay-odin.it cheesecake and apple pie. The first American www.dugout.it 081669928 bakery of its kind in Campania and Naples. Via GRAN CAFFÈ CIMMINO – A warm welcoming BELLAVIA – In 1925, Antonio Bellavia relocated Cavallerizza, 40. T: 08119255750 www.cakeappeal.it CHANDELIER - Visual arts exhibitions, themed place designed to make you feel good at all from Palermo to Naples, bringing with him the parties, live music, arts and crafts and jewellery times of the day. Its artisanal workshop turns out CAMBIOVITA– Cafeteria, frullateria, health food scents, colours and flavours of a region known for displays. At this stylishly furnished venue authentic, high-quality, mouth watering goodies, store, take-aways, Slow fast food, but also a its gastronomic culture. He soon began titillating everything is done with a certain flair including cakes and cocktails. Try its buffet selection, meeting place where you can breathe the air of several of the city’s most refined palates with its delightful red and black colour scheme. Its high-class homemade ice cream and authentic the house. A place to take a break and take care cassata, cannoli and other specialities, a tradition atmosphere is cosy and low-key thanks to the Neapolitan coffee. via Filangieri, 12. T: 081418303 of yourself sipping tea, herbal tea or a smoothie that has been carried forward with unerring soft, diffused lighting given off by the chandeliers made with all biological products. Via Carlo Poerio, GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS – Since 1860 Caffè Giuseppe Verdi’s opera in three acts set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave returns to passion by the fourth generation of the family and wall lamps from which it takes its name. Vico 100/a T: 08119570395 www.cambiovitastore.it Gambrinus has served as the literary salon of enthrall audiences at Teatro San Carlo. Based on ‘The Lady of the Camellias’, a play adapted from who currently run the business. Capodichino Belledonne a Chiaia, 34/35. T: 081414576 the city. Formerly one of the favourite haunts of Airport. T: 0815991603 www.pasticceriabellavia.it CARRATURO – Now helmed by the fifth the novel by Alexandre Dumas, it is part of a ‘popular trilogy’ which includes “Il Trovatore” and CHEZ MOI - One of the most renowned hot spots crowned heads, politicians, journalists, academics generation, this time-honoured pastry shop “Rigoletto”. The version staged at San Carlo is directed by Ferzan Ozpetek, with co-direction by BIRDY’S BAKERY – Its colonial decor provides a in the city, its exclusive clientele and posh decor and artists of international renown, including continues to defend its heritage, history and Marina Bianchi. Scenery by Dante Ferretti and costumes by Alessandro Lai. light, welcoming ambience, perfect for those make Chez Moi the place to visit. Featuring all the likes of Oscar Wilde and Benito Mussolini. the goodness of its origins. Its present owners, wishing to take a pit stop while enjoying a great the characteristics of a private club, designers, A Liberty-style jewel of architectural note, this From 3 to 13 November Ulderico and Alessandro, jokingly refer to cup of coffee. Signature pastries include brioches, socialites and football stars, mostly over 25, come EMILIA CHIARA SCOGNAMIGLIO venerable café sits in one of the most beautiful Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it ©

42 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 43 ENTERTAINMENT ENTERTAINMENT

MADAME BONBON - A haven of handmade which creates a trendy ambience. Via Vito Fornari, NAIS - Here you can read, purchase books, sip a SCATURCHIO – A time-honoured pasticceria and TEATRO NUOVO - Shakespeare, Beckett and where you will discover a host of intriguing worlds chocolates but not only. Its upper floor houses 15. T: 081422334 www.momah.it cup of coffee or savour a delicious glass of wine. a true “temple of taste”, this cult destination is a Pasolini are just some of the playwrights whose and a diverse culinary landscape in an evocative a welcoming tea room where in addition to an Don’t miss its Sushi evenings with live music. Also must for gastronomes and lovers of tradition. work has been showcased here. An extremely welcoming garden bar. Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T: MOSTRA D’OLTREMARE - One of the largest assortment of delectable sweet treats you can also has an Internet point. Via Giuseppe Ferrigni, 29. T: An institution in the art of pastry-making for real modern theatre, It provides a stage for emerging 081.8773530 www.cameraecucina.it fairgrounds in Italy and, together with Bari’s Fiera sip a cup of hot chocolate, tea or other beverages. 0816580466 connoisseurs of taste. A city tradition for more European writers and is known for its innovative del Levante, the largest in Southern Italy. It extends CIRCOLO DEI FORESTIERI - A favourite haunt When the shop closes, you can also book a than a century, you’ll find an array of local classics approach and experimental works - via over a surface area of 720,000 square metres and PALAPARTENOPE - A modern building used to with tourists from all over the world, in addition romantic, chocolate-based dinner while listening to ranging from coffee to aperitivi, from sweet Concezione a Montecalvario, 16 - 081.425958 www. incorporates buildings of significant historical host events, competitions, concerts, performances, to its breathtaking panorama, it also offers all the the soft, soothing notes of a violin. Vico Satriano, 4. treats to savoury delicacies. Piazza San Domenico nuovoteatronuovo.it and architectural importance, state-of-the-art festivals and gala evenings. Designed to flavours and specialities of the Sorrento Coast. Via T: 08119567440 www.madamebonbon.it accommodate up to 6,000 people. Via Barbagallo, Maggiore, 19. T: 0815517031 www.scaturchio.it TEATRO POSILLIPO - An offshoot of the historic pavilions, fountains (including the monumental Luigi de Maio, 35, Sorrento. T: 081.8773263 www. 115 - T: 0815700008 www.palapartenope.it landmark Posillipo cinema - a reference point since MARSHAL - Its stylish interior, where no detail has Esedra Fountain), a tropical aquarium, gardens S’MOVE - One of the most evocative musical food circolodeiforestieri.com the 1950s for cinema buffs - the Posillip Theatre is been left to chance, plays on the cold shades hosting a wide array of arboreal species and an PEPITA JAZZ - Top-level jazz and a good offer of food bars in Naples. Bulbous lamps and futuristic wall a versatile, elegant location and events space set CONWINUM – Jazz, food, wine and art, sensual of white and steel combined with the warm, archaeological park. Used to host trade shows, and wine but also art exhibitions, cabaret, themed panels create plastic effects that are mirrored in the against the charming backdrop of the Posillipo hill. pairings that involve all of the senses in an elegant Irish and Cuban evenings and wine and rum curved elements of its beautiful bar counter and in voluptuous shapes of Rococò furniture. Japanese congresses and events. Viale Kennedy, 54. T: Via Posillipo, 66 – www.teatroposillipo.it venue, entirely decorated with Vietri ceramics and tastings. Its signature dishes include soups, fondues, its light reflected onto it mosaic, mother-of-pearl cuisine, cocktails, drinks, good wines and a 0817258000 www.mostradoltremare.it lava stone tables. Offers live music and a piano bar cold cuts and cheese platters. Via Martucci, 39. T: tiles. An aperitivo hot spot in Naples, DJs spin out TEATRO SAN CARLO - One of Naples’ crown jewels, great selection of music. Vico Belledonne, 12. T: thoughout the week and live music on Saturday. MOTUS – A corner of Manhattan in Naples, this 360629808; 3333821301 an array of jazz, funk and electro music. Vico Sospiri, the San Carlo Theater is the Oldest Opera House 3381458610 This venue, owned by Elio Rispoli, serves food venue is open from 7am to midnight. In between, 10. T: 0817645813 in Europe. Built 41 years before La Scala in Milan PESCHERIA MATTIUCCI – On Tuesdays, Thursdays prepared by the “Don Alfonso 1890” restaurant MOCCIA – Established in 1941, this bakery cum in addition to breakfast, you can stop in for a snack, and 55 years before la Fenice in Venice, its design and Fridays, this landmark fishmonger offers some SUGAR QUEEN - A world of sweetness, color and and features works of art lent by gallerist Antonio patisserie offers an array of delectable goodies. The eat a pastry, sip an aperitivo, eat lunch, listen was the model on which many, and if you ask a of the best Mediterranean seafood and raw fish creativity that involves all five senses, and where Miniaci. Via del Brigantino, Positano. T: 089811461 venue is famed for its tiny, must-try pizzas whose to music or watch the news. Besides fabulous Neapolitan, all other Opera Houses would follow. dishes in town accompanied by a good selection dreams turn into reality. Sugar Queen, the Queen of recipe is a close-guarded secret. Other specialities homemade icre cream and mouth watering Built for King Charles III in 1737, it was inaugurated EXCTASY - A nightspot and piano bar situated in of fine wines and champagnes. Vico Belledonne a Cakes is a laboratory of high quality confectionery, include dainty strawberry tartlets, caramelized pastries, it also offers a minimalist bistrot corner. on his name day or onomastico. With its 3,300 the heart of Ischia offering great live music. Corso Chiaia, 27. T: 0812512215 design view, specialized in making custom cakes bignè and traditional Neapolitan pastries. Each day, Piazza Municipio, 5/6. T: 0815520262 www. seats and pitch perfect acoustics, it quickly became Vittoria Colonna, 97. Ischia. T: 081.982569 www.pescheriamattiucci.com of all kinds. Raw materials of superior quality and at lunch, its rosticceria attracts a hungry business motusinweb.it the venue of the masters and the dream of the aesthetic perfection of the cake design. Via Carlo FAUNO - A landmark nightclub in Sorrento which, crowd. Via San Pasquale, 21/23. T: 081411348 PINTAURO – One of the oldest pastry shops in hopefuls, making Naples the music capital of MOUSE - Spread out over three floors, it features Naples, it has been turning out the region’s Poerio, 42. T: 08119138422 www.sugarqueen.it Europe - via San Carlo, 98 - 081.7972331 - www. since the 1950s has been a meeting place and MOMAH - Reminiscent of one of the most important a colour scheme based on shades of green and destination venue for tourists, fashionistas and renowned “sfogliatella” since 1785, considered UPSTROKE – This venue represents a launch pad teatrosancarlo.it contemporary art museums in the world, namely electric blue. Its minimalist decor and casual, fun Campania jet-setters. The dance floor can be among the best in the city. Don’t miss a chance to for countless emerging musicians. It is patronized the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) in New York, feeling make it a destination venue for lounge accessed by an illuminated stairway covered by a sample it while strolling through the historic centre: by people of all ages who have a passion for it will thrill your senses with its steel finishes, black culture enthusiasts. Via San Giovanni Maggiore red carpet that anticipates the dominant colour of crispy perfection for even the most discerning music. Tuesdays are given over to jam sessions. Via COAST & ISLANDS and white décor and innovative lighting system Pignatelli, 45. T: 0815518663 palates. Via Toledo, 275. T: 081417339 the club. Piazza Tasso, Sorrento. T: 081.8781021 Coroglio, 128. T: 3294211510 AFRICANA FAMOUS CLUB - A unique, evocative haunt, an accordion player hidden amidst the rocks, GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI - An old tavern set VINARIUM - A welcoming wine bar cum trattoria, a black band, illustrious guests like Jackie Kennedy against a magnificent natural backdrop, with Vinarium boasts one of the city’s best-stocked wine and Gianni Agnelli. For years, the Africana has its marvellous plants and the architecture of cellars (850 Italian and foreign bottles) and culinary been the setting for “La Dolce Vita” on the Amalfi the “palazzi” surrounding its garden are further specialities inc cheese fondues and cosmopolitan CURATED BY FEDERALBERGHI NAPOLI coast. Via Terramare, 2, Praiano. T: 089874858 www. enhanced by the warm welcome given by patron meat dishes. Also offers a fab selection of grappas. africanafamousclub.com Andrea Impagliazzo and the flavours of its high-end Via Cappella Vecchia, 7. T: 0817644114 cuisine which make it a “must-visit” destination for TIP AL MONASTERO - The perfect place for a pit-stop, Customer satisfaction: a tool for tourists and hoteliers tourist. Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081.991150 it features a terrace garden with tables set amidst to guarantee a better service THEATRES bougainvillea, broom, jasmine and verbena www.giardinodegliaranci.it overlooking the ruins of the Cathedral dell’Assunta, JANE - Since the very beginning it has been a cult AUGUSTEO - One of the most famous theatres in in the bay of Sant’Anna. Castello Aragonese, Ischia. destination for celeb tourists. It glass-fronted side Naples, it is known for its big-budget performances he best way to offer a good but also the pages of social networks and for hotel managers who thus have a chance T: 081992435 walls mean that you can dance while enjoying including musicals, plays, comedies, dance and a fabulous view over the sea and small, adjacent product? To listen to customer intermediaries are a precious work tool to determine not only the negative aspects prose. It is also home to the Carlo Buccirosso actors’ ANEMA E CORE - Situated in the vicinity of the famous Piazzetta, amidst prestigious boutiques beach. Via Pagoda, Ischia. T: 08119515130 expectations. A philosophy that can which, if handled professionally, become of the customer experience but also those school - piazzetta Duca d’Aosta, 263 - 081.414243 T and 081.406698 - www.teatroaugusteo.it and luxury hotels, this stylish gem is tucked away LA CAPANNINA PIU’ – Offers a great selection be applied to numerous sectors including an excellent means of detecting efficiency of the city in order to offer a better, more behind an “almost” hidden door, the entrance of of wines, bubbly and distillates but also honey, BELLINI - One of the most beautiful theatres in one of the most highly patronized and renowned tourism. Nowadays, all hoteliers must have or inefficiency. Thanks to data collection, appealing product. balsamic vinegar, superb olive oil and a rich array of the city, it can be visited during the day. Visitors venues on the Capri nightlife scene. An exclusive, gift and wine-related accessories. Via Le Botteghe, an in-depth understanding of customer operators can, for example, tap into the can clamber up its narrow staircase leading to age-old wine bar, where Guido Lembo, a 39, Capri. T: 0818378899 www.capanninacapri.com its small rehearsal room hosting billboards of old spokesman for the Faraglioni throughout the expectations and, as a consequence, traditions, customs and habits of a customer, performances patiently collected by Tato Russo, world, entertains guests on the Island of Capri MUSIC ON THE ROCKS - For 40 years, one of increasingly focus on a policy of customer based on his/her nationality. Obtaining one of the greatest actors and playwrights in from midnight to dawn. Via Sella Orta, 1, Capri. T: Europe’s original superclubs, patronized by satisfaction. feedback about a tourist’s spending power, Italy - via Conte di Ruvo, 14 - 081.5491266 - www. 081.8376461 T: 329.4742508 show biz celebs and international film icons. It is teatrobellini.it www.anemaecorecapri.it considered one of the most evocative locations in Tourists are invited to dedicate just a culinary tastes, clothing or sightseeing the world. Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T: GALLERIA TOLEDO - Set within the heart of the BLUNIGHT - An atmospheric location with a great 089.875874; 331.7210076 www.musicontherocks.it few minutes to filling out a form that preferences means satisfying his/her Spanish Districts, it is known on the Neapolitan vibe. Blunight is one of the most elegant and will give members in the hospitality expectations. The result? Not only will theatre scene for its contemporary, experimental attractive discotheques in the area. Cala di Puolo, ‘O SPASSO – A discotheque located within the works and also stages pieces by well-known via Partenone, 31, Massalubrense. T: 3384138123; heart of the popular Bar “Calise”, of which it is an industry a chance not only to survey their tourists keep coming back but they will international playwrights - via Concezione a 3382227911; 3392547000 integral part. This exclusive stylish venue stages live requirements but also to learn about any also serve as the number one promotional Montecalvario, 34 - 081.425824 CALISE – Since the Sixties, Calise has been a meeting music and cabaret entertainment and caters to a fashionable set. This legendary nightspot attracts problems or negative aspects encountered vehicle of the city. TEATRO MERCADANTE - It opened in 1779 as the place either for an aperitivo or dessert. While sitting punters of all ages. Via E. Cortese (corner of Piazza ‘Teatro del Real Fondo di Separazione’, with comic in its stunning garden, guests can spend a relaxing during their stay. Customer satisfaction is therefore a tool that degli Eroi), Ischia. T: 081.881270 www.barcalise.com operas sung mainly in Tuscan. The theatre was evening listening to traditional Neapolitan songs. In a world in which web reputation assumes not only makes tourists feel better protected later used by Gioachino Rossini who became the Offers a wide selection of cakes (more than 50) and VALENTINO - Set against one of the most an increasingly important role, the tourist’s because they have the power to judge the music director of the royal theatres, Giovanni Pacini biscuits. Piano bar entertainment every evening. evocative, trendiest backdrops in Ischia, Valentino Piazzale degli Eroi, Ischia. www.barcalise.it and Gaetano Donizetti. After a period of relative is considered a temple of entertainment and opinion is ‘law’. Therefore, questionnaires services received but also one that is useful inactivity, in 1871 it was renamed the Real Teatro CAMERA E CUCINA - A restaurant cum art gallery. good music and is currently the hottest disco Mercadante – piazza Municipio – 081.5510336 – A place where one eats Italian but talks all the on the Island. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 97, Ischia. T: www.teatrostabilenapoli.it languages of the world. A hub of entertainment 081982569

44 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 45 WHERE NOW | ENJOY NAPLES

The Lungomare of Pozzuoli

Serapis temple, Pozzuoli The Submerged Archaeological Park of Baia Thermal Baths of Agnano

y the name “Phlegrean Area” we intend the enormous Pozzuoli is the most important centre of the looked more than 2,000 years ago: an open-air pools rich in precious natural elements that help volcanic area that extends North-West of Naples (the term Phlegrean nightlife scene. Its clubs are a go-to museum featuring the entire history of Pozzuoli. rejuvenate the body. The Stufe di Nerone are The Phlegrean ‘Phlegrean derives from the Greek word Flegraios and means destination for young people in search of relaxing (www.rioneterra.it). located in Bacoli and boast more than 20 hot and ‘burning’). An area of outstanding geological interest, it is atmospheres, fun and good food. Its most Another highly evocative experience is a night tour cold springs. Other on-site amenities include a renowned for its beautiful lakes and cultural treasures. Here, popular places include the Lungomare and the of the crater of Solfatara, one of the forty volcanoes semi-Olympic swimming pool, heated to 35°C, Area by night for example, you will come across several must-see landmark port, packed with loads of vibrant nightspots: comprising the Phlegrean Fields, located at a also open in winter, and an indoor swimming Battractions including Capo Miseno, the largest military port of ancient Rome, small restaurants serving deliciously fresh fish, distance of some three kilometers from the centre pool, heated to 40°C, whose energized warm SIGHTSEEING From Pozzuoli to Baia, from the Greek city of Cuma, the Parco Archeologico Sommerso in Baia, with wine bars, sandwich bars and pizzerias. For those of Pozzuoli: experienced tour guides enlighten waters relax tight muscles and stimulate the the thermal baths to nightspots right up to its villas and temples lying below sea level and the Rione Terra in Pozzuoli, in search of a unique experience we suggest a visitors about its history, scientific background and release of endorphins. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and guided tours of Solfatara and Rione Terra, with its Roman town unearthed during an excavation campaign. These and guided tour of the underground world of Rione mythology as they lead them up to its fumaroles Fridays, the ‘Stufe’ remain open until 11pm (www. many other natural treasures make the Phlegrean Area a sought-after tourist Terra, an evocative archaeological site dating where fresh blue fish, accompanied by a delicious termestufedinerone.it). Alternately, the Thermal here are Where’s picks of unmissable night time destination where, both in summer and winter, visitors can enjoy a vibrant back to 194BC. The seat of numerous historical local wine, is cooked at 160°C using the steam from Baths are located in Agnano. On-site amenities experiences nightlife scene. events, from the first years of Greek and Roman one of its fumaroles. The tour lasts for around two include two outdoor thermal pools and four One of the hottest clubs in the area, offering the ultimate nightlife colonization to the present time, it still boasts a hours (www.vulcanosolfatara.it). indoor pools with hydromassage; a large green experience, is Nabilah. Located on the famous Romana di Bacoli Beach, at trove of ancient ruins, overlaid by bits and pieces For Spa enthusiasts, we suggest a visit to the poolside area, complete with sun loungers and night, this elegant, sophisticated beach resort attracts a slew of national of successive civilizations. In its underground Terme di Agnano (Thermal Baths of Agnano) umbrellas, make a day at this oasis of peace even and international celebrities. It boasts beautiful scenery, quality shows, spaces, an almost intact archaeological itinerary and the Stufe di Nerone (Nero’s Stoves), the two more inviting (www.termediagnano.it). international DJs and talented musicians. gives visitors an idea of how the site must have most famous spa complexes in the area boasting PH. RERINKIN

46 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 47 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM the exterior, under a magnificent colonnade, you can see the statues of the four cardinal virtues and The Vertebra the three theological virtues while, at the sides of the stairway you will find two equestrian statues of king Ferdinand and his father, Charles III of Spain. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-12-noon and 4.30pm- Oracle in 7.30pm - piazza del Plebiscito - T: 081.7645133 CITTÀ DELLA SCIENZA - The science museum pride of the city, which attracted thousand of Naples 2015 visitors every year, was almost entirely destroyed Rebecca Horn returns in Naples with a by an arson attack that shook Naples, Italy and the whole world on March 4 2013. A huge loss that is personal exhibition featuring sculptures already being remedied with the reconstruction. The pavilions that at the moment are available and drawings related to poetry. Also on are few: Science Centre, Officina dei Piccoli, Teatro display, her imposing sculpture entitled Galileo 104, where it operates the cooperative Le Nuvole, the Congress Centre and the Science Store “Revelation of a Tree” – Open Tue-Sat 9am-3pm; Sun 10am-5pm; closed on Monday – Via Coroglio, 104 - T: 081.7352424 – T: personal exhibition by Rebecca Horn, one of the 0817352220 – www.cittadellascienza.it most versatile and creative artists of our times, THE UFFIZI AT CASAL DI PRINCIPE COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI SANTA Awho works across different media including CHIARA - It includes a Church, a Monastery and sculpture, installations, performances, painting, film and The exhibition focuses on the painting of the seventeenth century Neapolitan artists or a Convent. One of the principal monuments of poetry. Over the past forty years, she has produced followers of the Baroque artist Caravaggio who had ties with Naples including Artemisia medieval Naples, its construction began in 1310 at the behest of Robert of Anjou and his second a highly complex oeuvre that is grounded and bound Gentileschi, Luca Giordano and Mattia Preti, but also the Fate Presto painting by Andy Warhol wife Sancia di Maiorca, who, both devotees of St. together by an ongoing meditation on metaphysical from the Reggia di Caserta. A villa confiscated from a boss of the Camorra, and now dedicated to Francis of Assisi and Santa Chiara, wanted to build issues and a deep existential desire. the memory of Don Peppe Diana, a priest murdered in his church by the clan’s hit men in 1993, a Franciscan citadel to house the Clarisse nuns in Her last exhibition at Studio Trisorio in Naples was in has become a museum hosting works of art originating from the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. the monastery and the Friars Minor in the adjacent 2012 when – exactly ten years after her installation Until 21 October. 10.30am to 8.30pm convent. Behind the church is the Cloister of the ‘Mother of Pearl Spirits’ in Piazza del Plebiscito – she Casa di don Diana. Via Urano, 18, Casal di Principe, Caserta Clarisse, the monastery’s main cloister, strikingly decorated with bright majolica tiles and considered returned with her ‘Capuzzelle’ exhibition to re-examine a masterpiece of Neapolitan art. Open Mon/Sun themes of rebirth and the reciprocity between the castle began, returning it to its original structure. 7.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - T: 081.7971231 dimension of life and death. ‘Capuzzelle’ (cast-iron MONUMENTS & PLACES Open Wed-Mon 8.3am-7.30pm - via Tito Angelini, - Complesso monumentale - weekdays 9.30am- skulls) continued to feature in her work for many years, 22 - T: 081.2294401 - www.polomusealenapoli. 5.30pm; Sat, Sun and public holidays 10am- OF INTEREST 2.30pm - T: 081.5516673 - T: 081.7971224 - via at different museums across the world, including Berlin, beniculturali.it/museo_se/museo_se.html CASTEL DELL’OVO - According to ancient S. Chiara, 49C - www.santachiara.info - www. New Delhi, Maribor and Moscow and, most recently, at CHIESA DEL GESÙ NUOVO - Erected by the Jesuits Neapolitan legend, its name stems from the egg monasterodisantachiara.com between 1584 and 1601, its façade is actually part Llotja in Palma di Maiorca. which Virgil, the Latin poet, supposedly hid in its of a 15th century Renaissance palace. Its interior is DUOMO - Known as the Duomo di San Gennaro or Her exhibition in Naples will feature sculptures and foundations to support the fortifications. The place spacious and light with a rich covering of coloured Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, the Cathedral was where the egg was preserved was closed by heavy drawings related to poetry, including, first and foremost, marbles and typical Florid Neapolitan frescoes. After erected at the end of the 13th century by Charles locks and kept secret because it was believed “Vertebra Oracle for the future”. Her imposing sculpture the church was ravaged by fire in 1639, Cosimo of Anjou. Its present appearance is the result of that all the facts and fortunes of Castel Marino entitled “Revelation of a Tree” will also be on display. The Fanzago was commissioned to carry out restoration the numerous modifications that took place over depended upon it. From that time onwards, the the centuries, partially altering its original Gothic sculpture features tree limbs cast in bronze sitting on a works that gave the Church a Baroque appearance. fate of the castle and the entire city, was linked to Its interior boasts a number of magnificent frescoes form. Off the right aisle of the nave is the Chapel polished steel table; amid the branches, a ring of brass that egg. The castle’s fortifications and terrace offer while its chapels feature the works of renowned of St. Januarius (Capella di San Gennaro), that also spindles opens and closes slowly, evoking a decelerated a breathtaking view over the gulf – Open Mon-Sat artists of the calibre of Massimo Stanzione and functions as the cathedral treasury (Tesoro) and heart valve, or perhaps a spider enveloping its prey. 8am-7pm, Sun 8am-2pm – Borgo Marinaro – T: Giuseppe Ribera. Particularly worthy of note are is elaborately decorated with Baroque art – Open 081.2400055 The works of Rebecca Horn have been displayed at its sculptorial work and polychrome marble floor. Mon-Sat 8am-12.30pm and 4.30pm-7pm, Sun 8am- 1.30pm and 5pm-7.30pm – via Duomo, 147 – T: personal exhibitions at several of the world’s most CASTEL NUOVO - Also known as Maschio Angioino, Open Mon-Sun 7am-12.30pm and 4pm-7.30pm - piazza del Gesù - T: 081.5518613 081.449097 important museums including the Guggenheim it is one of the most recognizable symbols of the city built in 1279 by Charles I, king of Naples, as GALLERIA UMBERTO I - A mammoth steel and glass Museum in New York, the Tate Gallery in London, the CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE - Charles a royal residence for the House of Anjou. From II of Anjou began the extensive rebuilding that masterpiece built on the site of an entire block Nationalgalerie and the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin, the time that it was built, it was termed “New” to produced the Church of San Domenico Maggiore. that was razed to the ground following the cholera the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo and the distinguish it from the older Castles of Ovo and The work was done between 1238 and 1324, but epidemic of 1884. The Galleria was built as part of Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil in Rio de Janeiro and San Capuano. Worthy of note are its underground the church has undergone extensive modifications a program of renovation and modernization of passages, its two towers and its courtyard, from Paolo. In 2010, she founded the Moontower Foundation. over the centuries, including one in 1670 that recast the city which began with the Unification of Italy which you can enjoy a fabulous view, its gallery and the structure in the style of the Baroque. In the 19th when a tender was put out. The winning project In Italy, her installations are part of permanent Piazza d’armi. century, however, the church was restored to its envisaged four large buildings joined to each other collections at the MADRE museum in Naples and at the Open Mon-Sat 9am - 7pm - via Vittorio Emanuele original Gothic design and is a motley combination by an arcade designed by the engineer Paolo Castello di Rivoli Museum of Contemporary Art in Turin. III - T: 081.7955877 of the two styles. Among the many artistic points Boubée. Measuring 15 metres in width and 57 metres in height, the galleria was built between CASTEL SANT’ELMO - The first documented of interest in the basilica are the frescoed ceiling by Francesco Solimena and sculptorial works, 1887 and 1890 and is a wonderful late Victorian Until 31 December information regarding the castle dates back to including the high altar by Cosimo Fanzago – Open marriage of technology with art. The Galleria has 1275. This star-shaped castle was originally a church >> www.studiotrisorio.com Mon-Sun 8.30am-12-noon and 4.30pm-7pm – four access points: via San Carlo, via Santa Brigida, dedicated to St. Erasmus. In 1329 it was enlarged at Studio Trisorio. Riviera di Chiaia, 215, Naples. piazza S. Domenico Maggiore, 8 – T: 081.459188 via Giuseppe Verdi and via Toledo. the behest of Robert of Anjou, who transformed it T: 081414306 into a real palatium for himself and his court. Later CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO DI PAOLA - One of the ORTO BOTANICO - Founded in 1807 with a decree Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo had it further most characteristic and famous of all Neapolitan signed by King Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon’s fortified in 1538. Used as a military prison until the churches. Built in the mid-19th century, its circular brother, the botanical gardens extend over a How to enjoy your stay in Naples 1970s, in 1976 important restoration work on the form is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. On surface area of almost 12 hectares. Dedicated wherenaples.com STUDIO TRISORIO COURTESY

48 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 49 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS GALLERIE D’ITALIA. SPOTLIGHT Pompeo Carafa: a refined designer for royal tables On exhibit, an important selection of items and personal relics of the Carafa family, recently donated by Droandi YOU AT THE Carafa to the San Martino Museum: fans, drawings, miniatures, majolica plates, sketches and designs for plates, either to be used for the purpose of eating or hung on walls, designed and created by Pompeo Carafa di Noja, a protagonist of court life during the reign of the Savoy family CENTER OF ART. at the time of his appointment as master of ceremonies to the king. Exhibition standouts include eighteen majolica plates inspired by the art of ceramic-making between the 16th and 17th centuries in Central Italy. Until 20 December >> Museo di San Martino. Largo San Martino, 1, Naples T: 0812294537

Capri The Island finally abandoned in 1819 – Open Sat 9.30am- GALLERIE D’ITALIA PALAZZO ZEVALLOS 12.30pm by appointment only – piazza Carlo III – T: STIGLIANO - Not only a museum space but of Art 081.5636062 also a venue hosting artistic events, temporary exhibitions, concerts, symposiums and An open-air exhibition featuring more than 20 UNIVERSITÀ DEGLI STUDI FEDERICOII - This conventions. Tues- Sun, from 10am to 6pm; Sat, contemporary Italian and international artists, establishment was founded in 1224 with the from 10am to 8pm; Closed on Mondays. Also open invited to interpret the myths, place and history specific aim of training administrative and skilled during public holidays excluding 15 August, 25 of the island. Performances, audio and video in- bureaucratic professionals for the curia regis (the December and 1 January. The museum closes stallations, life-size sculptures, night screenings kingdom’s governing apparatus). It was also used at 2pm on 31 December – Via Toledo, 185. T: to prepare lawyers and judges who would help and exhibitions in public and private venues 0817917233 www.gallerieditalia.com the sovereign to draft and administer justice. Via located between Naples and Capri with the in- Mezzocannone, 8 - T: 081.2531111 - www.unina.it MAMT. MEDITERRANEAN MUSEUM OF ART, volvement of the Art Stations of Naples’ subway MUSIC AND TRADITIONS - The Museo VILLA COMUNALE - Its gardens run parallel to the Mediterraneo dell’Arte, della Musica e delle system and contemporary art museums. sea in via Caracciolo on reclaimed land featuring Tradizioni (MAMT) celebrates the culture of 43 The project also includes the exhibition ‘Canone almost one kilometre of holm oaks, palm trees, Mediterranean cultures by way of images, objects Inverso’ at the Certosa di San Giacomo. eucalyptus trees and spacious flowerbeds and original documents provided by their Heads Until December embellished by Neo-classical sculptures, fountains of State and Governments. Five floors of exhibits, Capri – Napoli. Tel. 081 0191478 and buildings including Casina Pompeiana and the photographs and paintings; an area dedicated Cassa Armonica. Designed by Carlo Vanvitelli the to the daily prayers of Christians, Muslims and www.capritheislandofart.org Villa Comunale was built in the 1780s by Bourbon Jews; a library; a newspaper library and a music King Ferdinand IV as a “Royal Garden” for members hall dedicated to Neapolitan artists Peppe and botanists will be impressed with its rich collection of the royal family. Following restoration work by Concetta Barra. MAMT also houses the International of almost 10,000 species of plants including those Milanese architect Mendini with coloured chalets Pizza Museum, the majestic “Totem of Peace” from the major American, African, Asian and and a gold gate, it assumed a more modern created by sculptor Mario Molinari and a section Australian deserts. Open Mon, Tues and Fri 9am- appearance. The centre of the villa houses the dedicated to architecture. Via Depretis, 130. T: 2pm by appointment only; Wed -Thurs 9am-2pma Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn, an important 3408062908 www.mamt.it - via Foria, 223 - T: 081.2533937 - www.ortobotanico. research centre and home to one of the oldest MAV. VIRTUAL ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM OF unina.it aquariums in Europe. Open Mon-Sun 7am-12- HERCULANEUM - A trip into the past thanks to a PALAZZO REALE - Envisaged as a 16th century midnight - piazza Vittoria - T: 081.7611130 multi-sensorial experience which will enable visitors GALLERIE D’ITALIA - PALAZZO ZEVALLOS STIGLIANO monument to Spanish glory, it was erected at to learn about and discover the historic realities of the behest of viceroy Fernandez Ruiz de Castro Herculaneum and Pompeii prior to the eruption in 79 A.D. At the Virtual Museum of Archaeology (or NAPLES, VIA TOLEDO 185 who, in 1599, decided to build a palace capable MUSEUMS of lavishly hosting his sovereign, king of Spain and MAV), sited 100 metres from the ruins of the former his entourage. The nucleus of the entire building CERTOSA DI SAN MARTINO - Lying atop a hill settlement, visitors will be transported into a virtual THE MUSEUM OF INTESA SANPAOLO. is the Royal Apartment which can be accessed in the Vomero district, the former monastery context faithfully recreated thanks to the use of via a monumental white marble stairway with a dominates the entire Gulf of Naples. Founded in avant-garde digital technology, where they will be

photo: Matteo Cirenei photo: Matteo We help to promote culture through permanent exhibitions, double ramp whose lower part is decorated with 1325 by Charles of Anjou, Duke of Calabria, over given a one-of-a-kind perspective of what life there allegoric bas-reliefs – Open Mon-Sun 9am- 8am the centuries the Charter House was enriched by a was really like without having to trek around the temporary shows and special initiatives. – piazza del Plebiscito, I - T: 081.5808111 – www. number of impressive artefacts including marbles, actual ruins in a bid to help preserve one of Italy’s palazzorealenapoli.beniculturali.it frescoes, sculptures, furnishings and paintings. most beautiful and fragile archaeological sites. Open Tue-Sun 9.30am-5p- via IV Novembre, 44, REAL ALBERGO DEI POVERI - One of the largest, A national monument since 1866, it houses the Ercolano - T: 081.19806511 www.museomav.it most imposing buildings in Europe it was designed National Museum of San Martino, featuring a large by architect Ferdinando Fuga in 1751, at the display of “presepi” or nativity scenes by masters of MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE - The behest of King Charles III of the House of Bourbon. the Neapolitan school. Make sure to visit its three- National Museum, at the Piazza Museo, with its Originally designed to be 600 metres long with tiered gardens and cloisters, the largest of which Roman and Greek sculptures, contains one of the five courtyards and a church in the centre, due to is considered to be one of the finest in Italy. Open most valuable archaeological collections in Italy. a severe lack of funds, only the three innermost Thurs-Tues 8.30am-6.30pm – Largo S. Martino, 5 – T: It hosts more than 3,000 objects and hundreds of courtyards were built. Plans to complete the 081.5781769 – www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/ thousands of relics dating back to the Prehistoric building according to the original design were museosanmartino and Late Antiquity, originating from ancient sites www.gallerieditalia.com 50 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS [ WHERE ELSE] Pompeii

MUSEO ARSENALE DI AMALFI: The Arsenale Neapolitan and foreign paintings. Via Correale, 50, documenting the production of wooden inlay The day when it all ended. Historic notes was the naval shipyard of the ancient republic Sorrento. T: 0818781846 www.museocorreale.it crafted by time-honoured Sorrento artisans of Amalfi (from 1059 onwards). It still retains its which also promotes the new contemporary MUSEO DEL CENTRO CAPRESE IGNAZIO original structures intact and, today, is the only production of design objects and furniture. Via CERIO: It offers visitors a chance to learn more shipyard of the period that can be visited in the San Nicola, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818771942 www. about the origins of Capri and the fossils found Mediterranean area. Largo Cesareo Console, 3, alessandrofiorentinocollection.it in its rocks. Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 5, Capri. T: Amalfi. T: 089871170 www.museoarsenaleamalfi.it 0818376681 www.centrocaprense.org MUSEO DIEFENBACH: Named after the MUSEO CASA ROSSA: Situated in the historic eponymous symbolist artist to whom it pays MUSEO DEL CONTADINO: Situated in the hilly centre of Anacapri, it houses a rich communal tribute. The museum hosts large evocative district of Panza, it is dedicated to the tools and collection of 19th century paintings, an excursus paintings portraying a variety of subjects lifestyles of peasant society. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16, into the places that have made Capri famous alongside statues dating back to Roman times Forio, Ischia. T: 081907246 www.dambravini.com throughout the world thanks to the artworks depicting marine divinities. Via Certosa, Capri. T: created by the countless artists who visited the MUSEO DELLA CARTA: A place where everything 0815788418 regarding the ancient art of handcrafted paper in Island during that period. Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 78, MUSEO MARTE: Four floors spread out over a Amalfi is disseminated, divulged and documented. Anacapri. T: 0818382193 surface area of 2,500 sq.m. A multi-functional Via delle Cartiere, 23, Amalfi. T: 0898304561 www. MUSEO CORREALE DI TERRANOVA: A splendid space that hosts exhibitions, cultural events, museodellacarta.it dwelling decorated like an ancient noble meetings performances and tastings. Corso residence, featuring magnificent furniture, refined MUSEO DELLA TARSIA LIGNEA: An original Umberto I, 137, Cava dei Tirreni. T: 0899481133 European and Oriental porcelains and rare museum cum workshop preserving and www.marteonline.com

by Charles VII who had inherited from his mother TWO YOUNG AMERICANS. A DIALOGUE BETWEEN the extraordinary collection of art belonging to the PAINTING AND SCULPTURE Farnese family, one of the most important families of Renaissance Italy. The variety of its collections, including paintings, sculptures, drawings, weapons, decorative arts, is owed to this period. The museum also houses a section dedicated to contemporary art. Open Thurs-Tues 8.30am- 6.30pm; 7.50 euros - via Miano, 2 - T: 081.7499111 - www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it/museo_cp Access MUSEO MADRE - The Donna Regina Contemporary routes Art Museum (M.A.D.RE) takes its name from the to the site building in which it is housed, namely Palazzo Donnaregina. Partially opened in 2005, it was completed in 2007 when the exhibition spaces were enlarged by the Portuguese architect, Alvaro Siza. A medley of 18th and 19th century architecture, it has two courtyards and overlooks a part of the 5th and 6th century B.C. city walls which can be seen under the floor of the ticket office. Open Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri and Sat 10am- >> Access routes A two-person show by Gina Hoover and Matt Jacobs, two young, up-and-coming American 6.30pm, Sun 10am-8pm – via Settembrini, 79 – T: Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro artists in the field of painting and sculpture. Though featuring elements of playfulness, fun, 081.19313016 – www.madrenapoli.it he first stable settlement in Pompeii experienced a period of enormous irony, hedonism and provocative allusions, their works are firmly anchored to a healthy and Piazza Esedra PAN - Housed in the 18th century Palazzo Roccella on Pompeii was founded around prosperity apparent in the construction knowledge of the trade. The creations by Matt Jacobs are characterized by bold colours, via dei Mille, the gallery offers vast exhibition space, From 8.30am-7pm improbable shapes and strange materials while those by Gina embody a radical expressivity consultation areas, services and tools targeted the seventh century B.C. by the of luxurious dwellings like Casa del Fauno. (last entrance at 6pm) and a sense of arrested time, displaying fast, confident brushwork and an idiosyncratic palette at the study of the works and protagonists of indigenous population of the Starting from the first century B.C., Pompeii’s >>Tickets that testify to a kind of visionary strength. contemporary art forms: from painting to sculpture, T € 11 valid for one day; Oscans, subsequently being subjected wealth continued to be based, for the most Until 28 November from architecture to photography, from design to € 20 with access to 5 sites Intragallery. Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 57, Naples. T: 081415702 www.intragallery.it cinema, from video-art to cartoons. Open Wed-Sat to the political and cultural influence of part, on the trade of products sourced from and Mon 9.30am-7.30pm, Sun and public holidays (Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplonti, Stabia the Greeks and the Etruscans. Towards around the area: wine, wool and garum, a 9.30am-2.30pm - via dei Mille, 60 - T: 081.7958605 - and Boscoreale), valid for three days. in Southern Italy and also includes the Farnese of Sansevero. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am – 6.30pm; www.palazzoartinapoli.net the end of the fifth century B.C. Pompeii famous fish sauce used as a condiment. collection which belonged to the Bourbon Sun and public holidays 9.30am-2pm; Closed T: 081.8575111 family, founders of the museum. Open Wed-Mon on Tuesday – via Francesco De Sanctis, 19 – T: UNDERGROUND NAPLES - This is the other face also fell under the sphere of influence The devastating eruption of Vesuvius in FOR BOOKINGS CONTACT YOUR of Naples, the one that has withstood the tests of 9am-7.30pm - piazza Museo Nazionale, 19 - T: 081.5518470 – www.museosansevero.it CONCIERGE time, far-removed from the hustle and bustle of of the Sannites, who took possession of 79 A.D. involved the south-western area 081.4422149 - www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/ MUSEO DEL TESORO DI S. GENNARO - The the vibrant city. In its underground passages and the whole of Campania, establishing a of Vesuvius, causing all signs of life to museoarcheologiconazionale masterpieces displayed document the walls made from yellow tuff, the stone that Naples extraordinary expertise of sculptors, chisselers flourishing civilization. Rome also took part disappear under a thick crust of volcanic MUSEO CAPPELLA SANSEVERO – Thanks to is built on, you can still see the indelible signs and and assemblers who created works of art from famous masterpieces including the Veiled Christ, traces of its past history, from the birth of Neapolis in the interminable succession of wars ash. All in vain: Pompeii had been almost the 14th century onwards. Open Tues-Sat 9am- known throughout the world on account of the to the Second World War. The tour of Underground 5.30pm, Wednesday - only by reservation - via that followed (343-201 B.C.), becoming In Rome, Emperor Titus, created a special entirely buried by the fury of the volcano, Disinganno (The Release from Deception) and Naples lasts for about 2 hours. Multilingual guides Duomo, 147 - T: 081.294980, T: 081.3442286 - www. the Anatomical Machines, the Chapel represents available. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs also the dominant power of the entire region, senatorial committee to organize the rescue while Herculaneum had disappeared museosangennaro.com one of the most unique monuments ever to until 9pm; piazza San Gaetano, 68 – T: 081.296944 resulting in its development as a thriving of its survivors and assess the extent of the completely. have been built. Was built at the end of the 16th MUSEO DI CAPODIMONTE - Located in the Palazzo – T: 340.4606045 – T: 3348197912 – century by Raimondo di Sangro, the seventh prince Reale di Capodimonte, the museum was created www.napolisotterranea.org port and trading centre. damage in a bid to rebuild the city. © SERENA ALTIERI

52 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 53 OUT OF TOWN OUT OF TOWN FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM

Casertavecchia

Reggia di Caserta, the Fountain of Aeolus

Caserta is a small centre, boasting a rich heritage of alludes to the grandeur of the kingdom and artistic, architectural and historical treasures. Where leads to the first floor, to the eight Royal In discovery of Apartments, featuring vaults decorated with has selected a pick of its most noteworthy landmark stunning frescoes and to the Palatine Library attractions that should be visited at least once in a and the Palatine Chapel, embellished with Caserta lifetime. sixteen Corinthian marble columns. There are lots of rooms worth visiting: from the horseshoe-shaped Teatro di Corte (Court WHERE ELSE From the Reggia to the THE REGGIA OF CASERTA Theatre) to the Sala Ellittica (Oval Hall) Belvedere of San Leucio, passing through A visit to this magnificent royal residence, second only to the which is painted in white and contains the the streets of Casertavecchia, a trip in discovery splendours of Versailles, starts with the Royal Palace, whose magnificent Bourbon manager scene. construction, entrusted to Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli, was of the area’s historical, artistic and architectural Back on the ground floor at the end of the commissioned by Carlo III Bourbon. heritage main gallery, you come out onto the Reggia's The Palace boasts as many as 1,200 rooms, all decorated according to magnificent park: a masterpiece of nature, it the style of the era. extends over more than 100 hectares and is A large staircase adorned with two lions, sculpted in Carrara marble, adorned with fountains and pools. wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples The most evocative area of the park is the The Archaeological Museum of Antica Capua

54 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 55 OUT OF TOWN

>> THE REGGIA OF CASERTA Is open daily, except on Tuesdays, from 8.30am to 4.30pm. T: 0823448084. Entrance to Palace and park: € 12

>> THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO The museum can be visited daily, except on Tuesdays, subject to reservation. T: 800411515 – 0823273151 Entrance: € 6

>> CASERTAVECCHIA, How to get there By train: Caserta railway station By plane: Capodichino Airport (Naples) situated at a distance of 24 km Casertavecchia, landscape beautiful English Garden created for Queen to catch a glimpse of Ischia and Capri. The Maria Carolina, the wife of Ferdinand IV: exotic complex also houses the Silk Museum which plants, hot houses, small woods, intricate contains the original tools used to weave silk pathways and a small temple with ancient in the 17th century. The silks produced here Roman statues taken from the ruins of are still purchased by illustrious clients from Pompeii combine to make it a totally unique all over the world, including the White House, place. the Quirinale and Buckingham Palace. Inside, a separate pathway leads to the Bagno di Venere, where a statue of Venus shows the CASERTAVECCHIA goddess shyly preparing to take a bath near The medieval fortress town of Casertavecchia the small fountain. is situated at a distance of some ten km from the city. its terraces, scattered here and THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO there, offer a panoramic view over the city, Just a few kilometers from the Royal Palace including Vanvitelli’s Reggia, Vesuvius and the of Caserta, visitors will find a unique example islands of the Gulf. Scattered throughout the The Museum of Santa Maria di of an illuminist-inspired imperial utopia, a town’s narrow medieval streets are craft shops Capuavetere, detail ground breaking project conceived by King and numerous small restaurants specializing Ferdinand IV who created an independent in typical cuisine. Take an evocative trip back community called Ferdinandopoli. through time. The King promoted the production and You’ll be delighted by the heady aromas of manufacture of silk by sending youngsters nature and the wood burning ovens found in from the area to train and learn the art of silk its houses. making in France in order to subsequently Dominated by a castle that is today in ruins, work in the royal factories. In 1778, he the village is built around the cathedral, a fine founded the Royal Colony of San Leucio example of Norman-Arab architectural style based on a separate code of laws. built in 1100. In addition to a beautiful Italianate garden, Dedicated to St. Michael The Archangel, a tour of the site includes a visit to the Royal the Duomo boasts three naves. Elegant yet Apartments. simple, it is a favourite destination for brides From the terrace of the Belvedere, visitors can who choose it to say “I do” on their big day. Line 1 enjoy a splendid view that stretches as far as TOLEDO station Vesuvius, and on clear days, it is even possible San Leucio, Silk artwork William Kentridge

56 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 ESSENTIALS ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM For every need ask your concierge. CITY TOURS Underground Network and Urban Railway System Citysightseeing Naples - (48 hour HOP ON HOP OFF How to reach ticket) via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 32. T: 081.5517279 Vesuvian area EMERGENCY www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it Carabinieri T: 112 departures: Piazza Municipio, Largo Castello By train For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza City Police T: 113 Esedra, Pompeii, Circumvesuviana Naples-Sorrento Fire Brigade T: 115 (Pompeii Villa dei Misteri stop; For the entrance to Ambulance T: 118 CAR RENTAL Piazza Anfiteatro, Pompeii, Pompei Santuario Stop; Sea rescue T: 1530 AVIS for Herculaneum, Herculaneum stop; for Oplontis, Passports Questura di Napoli - via Medina, 75. Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7805790 - Corso Torre Annunziata stop T: 081.7941111 Novara, 5. T: 081.284041 - via Piedigrotta, 44. By bus from Naples and from Salerno Lost and Found at Stazione Napoli Centrale: via T: 081.7618354 www.avisautonoleggio.it Jacopo De Gennaro, 96/98. T: 081.7956197 DOLLAR RENT A CAR By car A3 Naples-Salerno (Pompeii exit to Left Luggage at Capodichino Airport T: 199280180 Aeroporto di Capodichino - T: 081.7896252 Pompeii; Herculaneum exit to Herculaneum; Torre www.dollarrentacar.com Annunziata Sud exit to Oplontis) HERTZ TRAINS Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7802971 - piazza INFORMATION TO VISIT Ferrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia Railway Company - Sannazzaro, 142. T: 081.7612168 - www.hertz.it POMPEII Access routes: Porta Marina, Piazza Info: 892021 - www.trenitalia.com - luggage storage MAGGIORE Anfiteatro and Piazza Esedra T: 081.5672181 Aeroporto Capodichino T: 081.7803011 T: 081.8575111 Italo - Italy’s newest high-speed train connects 9 Italian www.maggiore.it HERCULANEUM Access routes: Corso Resina, 1 cities including Florence, Rome, Naples and Milan T: 081-7324311 (Garibaldi FS) - www.italotreno.it OPLONTI Access routes: Via dei Sepolcri, Torre BIKE SHARING Annunziata T: 0818575347 Bike-hire stations are located in Piazza Garibaldi, via TAXI Brin, piazz a Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, Largo How to catch a taxi in Naples. From the hotel: call the Enrico Berlinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel dell'Ovo. 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am concierge. See box page 61 – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – While out and about in the city, call for a taxi 5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm on: Consortaxi 081.5525252, Free Radio Taxi Napoli-Forio (Ischia) (Alilauro) 081.5515151, Partenope 081.5560202, Cooperativa from Beverello: 7.35am (except Sat and public holidays) Tassisti 081.5510964, Radiotaxinapoli 081.5564444, CONNECTIONS WITH – 9.40am – 10.50am – 2.35pm – 5.20pm Radiotaxi Cotana 081.5707070. ISLANDS AND Forio (Ischia)-Napoli (Alilauro) Urban fixed rates: SORRENTO to Beverello: 6.50am – 9.15am – 11.20am – 1pm – From/To Capodichino Airport/Lungomare Hotels: 3.55pm € 23,00 HYDROFOILS Napoli-Casamicciola (Ischia) (Snav) From/To Capodichino Airport/Mergellina: € 23,00 Napoli-Capri (Caremar) ffrom Beverello: 8.25am – 12.30am – 4.20pm – 7pm From/To Capodichino Airport/Molo Beverello: € 19,00 from Beverello: 5.35am – 12am – 5.25pm Casamicciola (Ischia)-Napoli (Snav) From/To Capodichino Airport/Piazza Municipio: Capri-Napoli (Caremar) to Beverello: 7.10am – 9.45am – 1.50pm – 5.40pm € 19,00 to Beverello: 10.20am – 3.35pm – 8.15pm Napoli-Ischia Porto (Alilauro) From/To Capodichino Airport/Central Station: € 15,00 Napoli-Capri (Gescab) from Beverello: 7.35am (weekdays) – 9.40am – 10.50am From/To Central Station/Mergellina: € 13,50 from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – 12.10am – 12.55am – 2.35pm – 3.30pm – 5.20pm – From/To Central Station/Lungomare Hotels: € 11,50 – 9.30am – 9.50am (Tuesday, Thursday and Friday) – 5.55pm – 8.20pm From/To Central Station/Molo Beverello: € 10,50 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am – 11.55am Ischia Porto-Napoli (Alilauro) (only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm – to Beverello: 6.30am (except Sat and public holidays) – Discover Naples By Metro and Funicular Extra-urban fixed rates: 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm 7.10am (weekdays) – 8.40am – 9.35am – 10am (except Ravello (one way): € 135,00 Capri-Napoli (Gescab) Sat and public holidays) – 11.45am – 1.20pm – 2pm – Amalfi (one way): € 130,00 to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – 4.15pm – 4.40pm – 7.10pm Ercolano (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am Napoli-Ischia (Alilauro) € 70,00 – 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm – from Mergellina: 7.10am (except Sat and public holi- Ercolano and Pompei (round trip with 3 hours stop 5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm days) – 12.30am – 6.15pm waiting for visit): € 130,00 Napoli-Capri (Snav) Ischia-Napoli (Alilauro) Pompei (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am – to Mergellina: 10am (except Sat and public holidays) – € 90,00 9.30am – 9.50am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am 2pm – 3.20pm (only Sat) – 5.20pm (festive) – 7.10pm Positano (one way): € 120,00 – 11.35am – 11.55am (only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am – Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) Costiera’s tour (Positano, Ravello, Amalfi, Sorrento round 2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm from Beverello: 7.40am – 1.10am – 6.15pm trip no time limit back in the day): € 220,00 Capri-Napoli (Snav) Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) Vesuvio (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am – to Beverello: 6.20am – 10.15am – 2.30pm € 90,00 Sorrento (one way): € 100,00 Royal Palace of Caserta (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit): € 100,00 Ticket Roma Fiumicino (one way): € 350,00 Getting Around Single ticket: € 1.00 City tour (scenic area, gulf, historic centre, Campi Naples Ticket validity (valid for 90 minutes): € 1.50 Flegrei’s scenic area): € 70,00 Day ticket: € 3.50 In addition to the metro (underground) system, Weekly ticket: € 12.00 cited in the listings, Naples is also covered by AIRPORTS numerous bus routes. Capodichino - (7 km from the centre of Naples- For more information regarding Naples’s public Where to purchase your ticket: tangenziale di Napoli direction Pozzuoli). transport system: from all authorized ticket sellers, ANM points Flight and bus info: 848.888777 (call center) - from ANM - Azienda Napoletana Mobilità and automatic ticket machines in underground mobile phones T: 081.7515471 - www.portal.gesac.it www.anm.it - T: 800639525 stations. WHERE WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.

58 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 www.wheretraveler.com 59 ESSENTIALS

NAPLES How to reach VESUVIUS Coast&Islands

SORRENTO

ISCHIA POSITANO CAPRI BIKE SHARING The service is operative on a daily basis and POSITANO SORRENTO bicycles can be picked up from any of the By car from Naples: Autostrada A3, Vietri sul By car from Naples: statale 145 stations avalaible (piazza Garibaldi, via Brin, Mare exit. From here take the statale 163 By train: Circumvesuviana from Napoli to piazza Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, largo By bus from Naples: Sita spa T: 089487001 Sorrento Enrico Berglinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel dell’Ovo) from 7am to 10pm (even several TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION times a day) for short point-to-point trips from Carabinieri: T: 089875011 Carabinieri: T: 089875011 one station to another. Maximum duration: 30 Croce Rossa Italiana: T: 089811912 Emergency Medical: T: 0815331111 minutes. The service is free. To use it you need Vigili Urbani: T: 089875277 Taxi: T: 0818782204 to register on the www.bikesharingnapoli.it Municipality: T: 0898122511 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818074033 website. You will be required to give your credit or debit card number as a guarantee but no ISCHIA CAPRI charges will be made. By boat, from Naples: molo Beverello to Ischia By boat from Naples: molo Beverello (80 Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (1 hour, 40 minutes minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil), from by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil); molo molo Mergellina (40 minutes by hydrofoil), from FERRIES Mergellina to ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio Sorrento (40 minutes by ferry, 20 minutes by Napoli-Capri (Caremar) (40 minutes by hydrofoil); from Pozzuoli to hydrofoil) from Porta di Massa: 7.25am – 12am – 12.40am – Casamicciola (60 minutes by ferry, 50 minutes 7.10pm by motorboat) TOURIST INFORMATION Capri-Napoli (Caremar) Carabinieri: T: 0818370000 to Porta di Massa: 5.40am – 9.20am – 2.30pm TOURIST INFORMATION Emergency Medical: T: 0818381259 Napoli-Casamicciola (Caremar) Carabinieri: T: 081991001 Taxi: T: 0818370543 from Porta di Massa: 3.45pm Taxi: T: 0818782204 Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818375308 Casamicciola-Napoli (Caremar) Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0815074211 to Porta di Massa: 12.55am Napoli-Casamicciola (Medmar) from Porta di Massa: 9.30pm (only Fri and Sat) Capri-Amalfi (Alilauro) Sat and Sun) – 5.45pm – 6.30pm Casamicciola-Napoli (Medmar) 4.25pm Sorrento-Capri (Gescab) to Porta di Massa: 12.55am Amalfi-Capri (Alilauro) 7.15am (except Sun) – 8.10am – 8.45am – 9.40am Napoli-Ischia (Caremar) 9.30am – 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.25am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – from Porta di Massa: 6.15am – 3.10pm – 5.30pm – Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 1.50pm – 2.25pm – 3.45pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm 8.30pm – 12pm 5.15pm Capri-Sorrento (Snav) Ischia-Napoli (Caremar) Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 8am (except Sun) – 8.55am – 11.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm to Porta di Massa: 3.20pm – 5.20pm – 7.25pm – 8.55am – 4.35pm – 5.40pm Capri-Positano (Alilauro) Sorrento-Capri (Snav) 10.15pm 4.25pm 7.15am (except Sun) – 8.30am – 9.50am – 11.45am – Napoli-Ischia (Medmar) Positano-Capri (Alilauro) 1.30pm – 3.50pm – 5.05pm from Porta di Massa: 8.35am – 10.05am (only Fri, Sat 10am Sorrento-Amalfi (Alilauro) and Sun) – 2.10pm – 4.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) – Capri-Positano (Gescab) 10.30am 7pm 5.15pm Amalfi-Sorrento (Alilauro) Ischia-Napoli (Medmar) Positano-Capri (Gescab) 4.35pm tto Porta di Massa: 6.25am – 10.35am – 2.30pm (only 9.15am Sorrento-Positano (Alilauro) Fri, Sat and Sun) – 5pm – 6.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) Capri-Sorrento (Alilauro) 10.30am Capri-Sorrento (Caremar) 8am (weekdays) – 9am – 9.20am – 9.50am – 10.20am Positano-Sorrento (Alilauro) – 11.20am – 12.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm – 4.20pm – 5pm 7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm 5.20pm – 6.30pm Napoli-Sorrento (Alilauro) Sorrento-Capri (Caremar) Sorrento-Capri (Alilauro) from Beverello: 9am – 11am – 1pm – 3.05pm – 5.15pm 7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm 7.15am (weekdays) – 8.05am – 8.45am – 9.15am Sorrento-Napoli (Alilauro) Capri-Positano (Gescab) 4.25pm – 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 3.50pm – to Beverello: 8.10am – 10am – 12am – 2pm – 4.25pm Positano-Capri (Gescab) 10am 4.05pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm Amalfi-Ischia (Alilauro) Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 4.25pm Capri-Sorrento (Caremar) 8.25am Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 9.30am 7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm Ischia-Amalfi (Alilauro) 4.20pm Sorrento-Capri (Caremar) Sorrento-Ischia (Alilauro) 9.30am 7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm Ischia-Sorrento (Alilauro) 5.25pm The times shown are those listed Capri-Sorrento (Gescab) Positano-Ischia (Alilauro) 9am on the websites of individual cruise 8am (weekdays) – 8.55am – 9.05am – 9.20am – Ischia-Positano (Alilauro) 4.20pm companies. Where declines all 10.20am – 11.20am – 12.10am – 1pm – 1.55pm – Capri-Ischia (Snav) 4.40pm responsibility for unexpected changes 3.15pm – 4.05pm – 4.20pm – 5.15pm – 5.35pm (except Ischia-Capri (Snav) 10.40am in running times.

60 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015

Untitled-1 1 12/22/2014 4:51:38 PM

[ WHERE IN NAPLES] My Perfect Day

Naples in three adjectives? When it comes to cuisine, how important are creativity and passion? Dramatic, chaotic and flavoursome. Creativity serves as a means of expression and passion Naples in three snapshots? is essential in all jobs. Sea, pizza and mandolins? No! History, culture and Is it better to use high-quality ingredients or cheerfulness. to work with leftovers hidden in the fridge? Your favourite aperitivo? It’s always a pleasure to use high-quality ingredients Campari spritz. However, while on the panel of judges but I’m still of the opinion that one shouldn’t waste of a recent competition, I drank cocktails featuring a food. Martini mix that were absolutely fabulous. What are the right ingredients for a perfect dish?

There is no such thing as a perfect dish. There are only outstanding ingredients that are combined according to taste and creativity to give pleasure.

What are the hallmark features of the Le Colonne restaurant? Rosanna Directness, minimalism and substance. Marziale The coffee ritual. Tell us about yours? [Chef] I never drink a cup of coffee without first drinking a The Chef of Le Colonne glass of water to cleanse my palate. My cup of coffee restaurant in Caserta says Did you have trouble establishing yourself as has to be so hot that it burns my lips. that she has many hidden a female chef ? Your favourite dish? identities which on coming I had to work as hard as any man, in the sense of ‘no pain, no gain’. But this had nothing to do with being Impossible to choose! There are so many good things together are responsible for a woman. to eat. her choices in the kitchen. She uses her recipes to tell What is the place ‘dearest to your heart’ in Your best culinary creation? her story and to express Naples? At the moment a mozzarella ball and an upside down the various facets of her Naples is full of places that I love. However, strolling pizza. personality. along via Caracciolo while looking at the Bay of Naples Let’s talk about shopping: what do you like is a truly magical feeling. buying? How would you describe the Neapolitans? I was born here and although it wasn’t taken Handbags! Although I always for granted that I would learn to love the Exaggerated, with no half measures, whether good end up using the same one. business, I tried all the sectors that are or bad. What made you indispensable for a chef’s job. Before choose to become actually working in the kitchen, I took a chef? various courses on management, I have always worked becoming a bar tender, a maitre, a at my family’s restaurant. sommelier…

64 WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I NOVEMBER 2015 WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS

5 STAR DELUXE NAPLES Residenza Echie. Via Chiatamone, 37 - 80121 Naples (NA) Ariston. Via Laura, 13 84040 Capaccio/Paestum (SA) Grand Hotel Parkers. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135 Residenza Le Rose Villa d’Arte. Art Hotel Gran Paradiso. Via Catigliano, 9 - 80067 80121 Naples (NA) Discesa Gaiola, 73 80123 Naples (NA) Sorrento (NA) Grand Hotel Vesuvio. Royal Continental. Via Partenope, 38/44 Best Western Hotel Esplanade. Via Poseidonia, 291 Via Partenope, 45 - 80121 Naples (NA) 80121 Naples (NA) 84063 Paestum (SA) Romeo. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45 Santa Brigida. Via Santa Brigida, 6 - 80133 Naples (NA) Continental Ischia. Via M. Mazzella, 70 - 80077 Ischia (NA) 80133 Naples (NA) Suite Esedra. Via A. Cantani, 12 - 80133 Naples (NA) Corallo. Rione Cappuccini, 12 - Santa Lucia Grand Hotel. Via Partenope, 46 80065 Sant’Agnello di Sorrento (NA) 4 STAR DELUXE NAPLES 80121 Naples (NA) Domina Home Royal. Via Pasitea, 344 Eurostars Excelsior. Via Partenope, 48 - 80121 Naples (NA) StarHotels Terminus. Piazza Garibaldi, 91 84017 Positano (SA) Relais Villa Buonanno. Viale Buonanno, 10 - 80040 80142 Naples (NA) Elna Park Hotel Terme. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 57 - 80074 Cercola (NA) Una Hotel Napoli. Piazza Garibaldi, 9-10 Casamicciola Terme, Ischia (NA) 80133 Naples (NA) Gatto Bianco. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 32 - 80073 Capri (NA) 4 STAR NAPLES Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi. Via Annunziatella, 46 Alabardieri. Via Alabardieri, 38 - 80121 Naples (NA) 5 STAR COAST&ISLANDS 84011 Amalfi (SA) Apart Hotel Plebiscito. Via Chiaia, 79 - 80121 Naples (NA) Belmond Hotel Caruso. Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, 2 Hotel Helios. Via Capo, 33 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Arte Resort Galleria Umberto. Galleria Umberto I, 83 84010 Ravello (SA) La Conca Azzurra. Via Smeraldo, 35 - 84010 Conca dei 80132 Naples (NA) Caesar Augustus. Via G. Orlandi, 4 Marini (SA) Best Western Hotel Paradiso. Via Catullo, 11 80071 Anacapri, Capri (NA) La Minerva. Via Occhio Marino, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA) 80122 Naples (NA) Casa Angelina. Via Capriglione, 147 - 84010 Praiano (SA) La Palma. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 39 Best Western San Germano. Via Beccadelli, 41 - 80125 Cocumella. Via Cocumella, 7 - 80065 Sant’Agnello di 80073 Capri (NA) Naples (NA) Sorrento (NA) L’Approdo. Via Eddomade, 29 - 80074 Casamicciola Terme, Decumani Hotel de Charme. Via San Giovanni Maggiore Covo dei Saraceni. Via Regina Giovanna, 5 - 84017 Ischia (NA) Pignatelli, 15 - 80100 Naples (NA) Positano (SA) La Residenza. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Ferdinando II. Piazza Carlo III, 59 - 80137 Naples (NA) Don Alfonso 1890. Corso Sant’Agata, 11/13 - 80064 Maison Tofani. Via San Cesareo, 34 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) Holiday Inn Naples. Via Ausilio Centro Direzionale E6 - Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi (NA) Marad. Via Benedetto Croce, 29 - 80059 Torre del Greco (NA) 80143 Naples (NA) Grand Hotel Excelsior Terme. Via E. Gianturco, 19 - 80077 Michelangelo. Via Corso Italia, 275 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) La Ciliegina. Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 30 Ischia (NA) Oasi Olimpia Relais. Via Deserto, 26 - 80061 Sant’Agata sui 80133 Naples (NA) Grand Hotel Il Saraceno. Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33 due Golfi, Massa Lubrense (NA) Le Chemineé. Via Stadera, 91 - 80143 Naples (NA) 84011 Amalfi (SA) Palazzo Murat. Via dei Mulini, 23 - Positano (SA) Magri’s. Via Galileo Ferraris, 118/a Grand Hotel Tenuta Lupò. Via Laura, 201 - 84063 Park Hotel Terme Mediterraneo. Via Provinciale Panza 80146 Naples (NA) Capaccio/Paestum (SA) 80075 Forio d’Ischia (NA) Majestic. Largo Vasto a Chiaia, 68 Il Moresco Grand Hotel & SPA. Via E. Gianturco, 16 Poseidon. Via Cesare Battisti, 80, Torre del Greco (NA) 80121 Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) Punta Imperatore. Via G. Mazzella, 18 Mercure Angioino. Via Depretis, 123 - Naples (NA) L’albergo della Regina Isabella. 80075 Forio, Ischia (NA) MH Design Hotel. Via Chiaia, 245 Piazza Santa Restituta, 1 - 80076 Lacco Ameno, Ischia (NA) Regina. Via Marina Grande, 10 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80121 - Naples (NA) Le Agavi. Via Guglielmo Marconi, 127 - Positano (SA) Relais Bad and Breakfast Corte degli Aragonesi. Miramare. Via Nazario Sauro, 24 La Scalinatella. Via Tragara, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA) Corso Vittorio Colonna, 108 - Ischia Porto (NA) 80132 - Naples (NA) Lusso Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. Piazza Tasso, 34 - Relais Blu. Via Roncato, 60 Naples. Corso Umberto I, 55 - 80138 Naples (NA) 80067 - Sorrento (NA) 80061 Massa Lubrense (NA) Nh Ambassador. Via Medina, 70 Mezzatorre Resort & SPA. Via Mezzatorre, 23 - 80075 - Relais Regina Giovanna. Via Calata di Puolo, 1 80133 Naples (NA) Forio, Ischia (NA) 80067 Sorrento (NA) Nuvò. Via Nuova Agnano, 5 - 80125 Naples (NA) Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa. Via Roma, 2 Residence Miramare. Via Capo, 60 Oriente Grand Hotel. Via Armando Diaz, 44 84010 - Conca dei Marini (SA) 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80134 Naples (NA) Parco dei Principi. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) San Valentino Hotel. Via leonardo Mazzella, 90 Palazzo Esedra. Piazzale Tecchio, 50 Punta Molino Hotel. Lungomare C. Colombo, 23 80077 Ischia (NA) 80125 Naples (NA) 80077 Ischia (NA) Savoy Beach Hotel. Via Poseidonia, 41 Palazzo Turchini. Via Medina, 21-22 - 80132 - Naples (NA) Punta Tragara. Via Tragara, 57 - 80073 Capri (NA) 84047 Paestum (SA) Ramada Naples. Via Galileo Ferraris, 40 - S Continental. Piazza della Vittoria, 4 - 80067 Sorrento (NA) 80142 Naples (NA) 4 STAR COAST&ISLANDS Towers Hotel Stabiae Sorrento Coast. Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo. Via ponte di A Pazziella. Via Fuorlovado, 36 - 80073 Capri (NA) S.S. Sorrentina, 145. Km. 12.400 Tappia, 25 - 80133 Naples (NA) Amleto. Via Bartolo Longo, 10 - 80045 Pompei (NA) 80053 Castellammare di Stabia (NA)

WHERE NAPLES I COAST&ISLANDS I 2015