THE ROUTES OF STORM CREEK HEADWALL

*Routes described from right to left, as you’d see them IKIRU CRASH CHOSS CHOSS STREET STREET while approaching. YACHTY SINISTER TEENAGE SPLITTER DIFFICILE DIFFICILE MONSTER THE PLUM THE PEACH TINKERBELL SCAR TISSUE

Goose Abuse WI5 60 m Silmarillion WI6+ 140 m Buddha Nature M6 WI5 110 m Teenage Yachty WI5+ 70 m Located on the right side of A very thin pure ice route. It has only A classic and a good intro to Mixed just right of Crash. the couloir, just right of the formed completely in 2004. Not Storm Creek. Best done is two headwall itself. to be missed if it comes in again. 55 m pitches. Bring a double rack Crash WI6 90 m of Cams to #3 ! Sometimes An impressive pure ice route in the Rectal Squirrels WI6 M6 140 m Check Your Head WI5 M6+ 180 m a third is formed and can middle part of the cliff. Usually very thin. An excellent route. For the first pitch, Good trad climbing with bolted add an extra 15 m of cool climbing. the original, direct, thin ice variation anchors to a nice ice pillar Splitter Choss M6+ 30 m is protected by some bolts. If the finish. Be aware of the massive Fleshlumpeater WI5+ M6 90 m Fun drytooling up a corner that ice is too thin, or if you prefer, a couloir above. Very rare to form, but looks features an obvious thin-hands splitter. high quality alternate first pitch can good if it’s in. Starts on kb’s, continues up a thin be done by climbing left to the first Kahveology M8 WI5 160 m hand crack, and finishes on bolts. bolt of the Silmarillion Indirect, then A direct start to Check Your Head. Shocking Alternative WI4 A 100 m Lower off a bolted after go straight up a handcrack, then Superb dry tooling past a few Nice moderate ice route. 32 m of climbing. Unfortunately, it back right to the snow-ledge and bolts but mostly on natural gear. The didn’t lead to the unclimbed dagger belay from small nuts and second pitch needs thin ice, but Cosban and Xena M5 100 m that hangs to its right. (some fixed). The second pitch is protects well with rock gear. Don’t Two parallel, high quality trad lines, a full 60 m of steep and superb miss it if it’s in. Currently unrepeated. consisting of thinly iced corners and Ikiru M7 WI5 150 m thin . slots that share the same belays. A nice looking piece of ice that Bodhi Tree M9 120 m formed right of Scar Tissue in the Silmarillion Indirect M5/M6 The latest, and probably the hard- Puzzle M4 WI3 80 m 2017/2018 season. From the Scar WI5 150 m est route to date on the headwall. An obvious hourglass, typically tissue halfway ledge, move right Very popular by Storm standards. Climb the first pitch of Buddha mostly thin ice climbing. Popular. and climb two independent pitches, Mix of bolts and gear. Gain the ice Nature, traverse the ledge for 35 m one rock on rock and one on ice. after pitch one if the main flow to right below the dagger. To climb Difficile Monster WI3 90 m comes down low enough. Or, keep the upper two pitches, bring eight The easiest and most straightforward Scar Tissue WI6 M7 150 m going up the diagonal crack for two screws, 16 draws and a single route on the cliff. A stunning piece of ice in a spectac- Jon Walsh more pitches to gain the final pillar. rack. Spicy! ular setting, with a 30 metre section of bolted dry tooling to connect it. Photos

26 gripped.com V21.05 10/11 2019