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The Annual of the British School at Athens http://journals.cambridge.org/ATH Additional services for The Annual of the British School at Athens: Email alerts: Click here Subscriptions: Click here Commercial reprints: Click here Terms of use : Click here A Visit to Cyrene in 1895 Herbert Weld-Blundell The Annual of the British School at Athens / Volume 2 / November 1896, pp 113 - 140 DOI: 10.1017/S0068245400007115, Published online: 18 October 2013 Link to this article: http://journals.cambridge.org/abstract_S0068245400007115 How to cite this article: Herbert Weld-Blundell (1896). A Visit to Cyrene in 1895. The Annual of the British School at Athens, 2, pp 113-140 doi:10.1017/S0068245400007115 Request Permissions : Click here Downloaded from http://journals.cambridge.org/ATH, IP address: 131.173.48.20 on 15 Apr 2015 ' itfS i^>- tv lli-JOTb. V**»-iJ IhUS ntt < POINTS'Si/HEHCEl PHOTMOHAPMS ARE British School at Athens, Annual II. PLATE IV. RUINS OF CYRENE: GENERAL PLAN. A VISIT TO CYRENE IN 1895. A VISIT TO CYRENE IN 1895. BY HERBERT WELD-BLUNDELL. PLATE IV. THE difficulties that hedged round the Garden of the Hes- perides in the Greek seem still destined to make the Cyrenaica, a country to which the eyes of archaeologists have so wistfully turned, almost as inaccessible to the modern traveller as to the heroes of ancient fable. The classic maidens have vanished, the Garden is some- what run to seed, but the dragon of early legend is there, in the person of the native official who guards the historical treasures that lie strewn over the rich sites of the Pentapolis, stately tombs that worthless Arabs kennel in or plunder for statues and vases, to be peddled to Maltese or Greeks for (literally) home consumption or foreign export. Through the kind intervention of Lord Rosebery who, as Foreign Minister, might represent the Atlas of the newer style, a firman was obtained enabling me to go through the country and visit the sites of the ancient Cyrene, Ptolemais, Barca, and Apollonia (now Ain Shahat, Tolmeta, Merj, and Marsa Susa). "You may look but you mustn't touch," was the essence of this official document. All excava- tion was strictly prohibited, and being surrounded by officials who, however kind and polite, traditionally view strangers with the deepest suspicion, I knew too much to do anything that might, by any native malice and the lively imagination of a large escort of soldiers, be con- strued into an infringement of the regulations set forth in the firman. All I can do, therefore, is to present a few photographs, and the results of such observation as could be made during a hurried visit, marred by such appalling weather that I felt nothing could save archaeology from eternal condemnation by my escort and the officials, but to make my stay as short as possible. I propose to illustrate this paper by some extracts from an interesting communication from Professor Studniczka, whose brilliant monograph Kyrene has given a strong incentive to further research in this region, by pointing to problems and raising questions that can never hope for definite solution till we appeal to the final judgment of the spade. The remains of Benghazi, pretty well worked out by Dennis and others, do not call for particular remark. The most curious reminis- cence of ancient legend are the waters of Lathon, now called the Jakh, 113 Q auo ;nq 'oj;uo jBoiSopa2qo.re puB A\iBja;ii aq; A"q aq ;qSiui SB qons *;DBJ TeoisA"qd aoB^uouiuioo B papjooaj s^q pu9SaT. aq; 'suaddsq ua;jo os SB 'ajajj •Xjmbt^u'G jo sja;uA\ puB s;aod aq; uo ;sBipqos ;saq aq; BSBD siq; in aq A^qBqojd pjnoAY jaddi5[s ujapoui y •Buaq;y jo docrdqjJiq p9J.qBj aqj ao-etd JCUI],J pu« 'snqDBiuiix^O 'J^putjj 'oq'BJiS aiaqM 'suadsajj JO iz'eqSuag jo pooqjnoqqSjgu aq; ireq} J3;iaq qonui '(saq^r) jo Jin£>) spjifg ®iwn a^ 8AoqB SUOOSBJ %\es vs^x% aq; jo iioiSaj aq; ui 'spjXg aqj jo ;SBOD a;;soddo aqj ijns ski, sUnrirs^ IVQO3ASL imXvdtf IOTOX. AZ nUL IVQD3QI±,V)I /ndu. 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SB 8AVB snoijpsjadns qonui SB qiiAV SBAI^BU aq; sajidsui iBq; ^ood Sui^ooj-pjiaAV '^DB^q B '^DOJ pips jo auiop Aq jaAo pajooj 'a^B^ punojSjapun UB JO aSpa aqi uo ajB aAV ';i Suua;ua uo puB '2po.i jo iiej& pips aq; ui Sujuado UB punoj si ajaqj suoissajdap asaqj jo auo uj •sapuadsajj aq; jo suapjBrj snouiBj aq; ;uasaadaj o; pasoddns uaaq aABq puB pajBAt;pno X^njpnBaq 8JB ipiqAV jo auios 's;id U95[uns dgap 's;uiod SIIOIJBA ;B 's;u9saad UA\O; aq; Suipunojans auo;s9uiii jaAa^ ;B8JS aqx "izBqSuaa; jo ;sBa sai;ui xjs ;noqB •9 -S68 i] SNSH1V IV 700HDS HSI1IU2 3HX A VISIT TO CYRENE IN 1895. which is important enough to supply an easy explanation of the legend, and to throw light on the geographical side of the question. According to the " Mediterranean Pilot," the official guide, published by the Admiralty, the only tide of importance in the Mediterranean is that along the western coast of the Syrtis, where the rise sometimes amounts to over 5 feet—a phenomenon that would at any time be well calculated to puzzle a classical skipper accustomed to a tideless sea, but much more so under the conditions of a greatly increased rise, due to a northerly wind piling the water up on these shoal coasts, and putting the navigator in the position of having to beat out (an unknown manoeuvre to ancient mariners), or take the risk of running aground when the tide fell—iv ftpayeai ylyveuOai. It is true the Boprj? of Herodotus (the prevailing wind in winter) would scarcely drive a ship on to any part of the Syrtis from Cape Malea, but it would drive it to the coast of Libya, and approaching the point of Ras S6m (northerly point of the Cyrenaica), he would be caught by the wind, which " divides " * at this point, and driven to the west across the Syrtis. The story of Jason's adventure, therefore, is more in accordance with the physical conditions of the western than the eastern side of the great Bight of Sydra. The prediction of the Triton who epiphanised to Jason, that " it was fated that a hundred Greek cities should be built around Lake Tritonis " (Herod, iv. I.e.), is certainly in contradiction to this, and could scarcely refer to any place except one on the borders of the Pentapolis. This position, in fact, is taken as the true one of Lake Triton by Strabo (who in this region follows generally, but inaccurately, the account of Herodotus), Callimachus {TpiTtvvo? e<p' vhaaiv 'Afffivarao—Frag, xiii.), Pliny, Diodorus Siculus, and Pindar (Pyth., iv.). Scylax of Caryanda, Herodotus in all other passages except in the context above, Ptolemy, Pomponius Mela, and Lucan, place it on the west side of the Syrtis Magna, somewhere between the southern point of the Syrtis Parva (Gulf of Gabes) and a point on the coast one hun- dred and eighty stades from Carthage by land (Scylax), the position being more nearly defined on the south by Ptolemy, who gives a list of * " Ras Sem, which is remarkable for the fact that the prevailing north-westerly winds at this point veer on the coast eastward of it to the north-west, and on the coast westward of it to the north-east."—Medit. Pilot, vol. ii, p. 336, 3rd edit. THE BRITISH SCHOOL AT ATHENS. [1895-6. towns between river Bagradas and Triton below Carthage (VTTO Kap^ij- hova), and then, i.e., south of Triton, a list of towns after (awo) Had- rumetum, which, as his enumeration proceeds from east to west, would indicate a position north of this town (present Susa). So far the evidence points generally to the western side of the great bight, but a good deal of literature has been devoted to a more exact localisation. The system of shallow lakes or shotts, viz., Melghir, Gharsa, and Jerid, situated west of the bight or Gulf of Gabes, was pitched upon by Shaw as Lake Triton, the three lakes of Ptolemy (Libya, Pallas, and Triton) being represented by the three basins of Lake Jerid.