NEW ZEALAND SEA CANOEIST

ISSN 2253-3826

The Journal of the Kiwi Association of Sea Kayakers (NZ) Inc - KASK

No. 168 December 2013 - January 2014

New Zealand Sea Canoeist INDEX EDITORIAL EDITORIAL p. 3 Anakiwa 2014 KASK Forum KASK My apologies for missing three num- Anakiwa 2014 Forum p. 5 bers with the direct credit details on Photo competition p.5 the 2014 KASK forum registration Award nominations p.5 form. I blamed the proof-reader who Notice of AGM p.5 seems to have subsequently been ab- President’s Report to Jan/14 ducted by aliens. The numbers have by Ian McKenzie p.5 been corrected on the KASK web- NEW ZEALAND TRIP REPORTS site: Westpac - KASK 2014 Forum Beneath Glowing Skies 03 0855 0400157 001 (Around Stewart Island) by Tara Mulvany p. 6 Friday night, 8 – 10 pm, is planned with eight 15 min PP talks, 10 min- utes for the talks, five minutes for TECHNICAL Tara Mulvany at Opunake in the South questions and changeovers. To date, Leashes Taranki Bight, 5 January. She was talks on in Croatia, and the by Sandy Winterton p.11 sadly labeled ‘Paddle-happy recent ‘Southern Ice Rescue.’ Six by Kevin Dunsford p.12 queen’ by the Taranaki Daily News. more slots available – please get by Mike Scanlan p.13 Photo: Charlotte Curd. by Tara Mulvany p.13 in touch if you have a trip to share. Please register soonest - for we need want to blow her record to date of OVERSEAS REPORTS to give the Outward Bound cooking two rolls and no swims. Tara will be Jason Beachcroft around Australia staff a firm number of paddlers who the first woman to paddle around the by p.14 require gargantuan meals. North Island. Tara has four more big Freya Around South America surf landings before rounding Cape by Paul Caffyn p.14 Tara Mulvany Maria van Diemen, and the end of Sri Lanka Tara Mulvany paddled across Cook the massive surf of the West Coast. by Paul Caffyn p.15 Strait on 17 December 2013, and France to Istanbul despite the non-show of summer to Tara has a new website (www.taras- from website p.15 date, she has been working her way journeys.com) with intermittent blog South America to Florida up the West Coast of the North Island. coverage, a photo gallery and previ- from website p.15 ous expeditions. And her really good On 25 January, Tara headed out of recent news is that Craig Potton Pub- BOOKS the Manukau Harbour to paddle up lishing is printing a book later this NZ Books to Muriwai. In a brief email she not- year on her winter paddle around The Circumnavigation Narratives ed: ‘Manukau bar = scariest place I the South Island. Not only a talented by Kerry Howe p.16 have ever been in a kayak! Did not paddler but also her story (page 6) find the northern sneak lead and I on a five week solo paddle around OBITUARIES was forced left out to sea. Let’s say Stewart Island is a great read with Maggie Oakley I was dodging house-sized breakers excellent descriptive writing. by Paul Caffyn p.18 for about 5 kms offshore. It was the Percy Blandford most terrifying place I have been in Kiwi Paddling Narratives by Alan Byde p.19 a kayak.’ Recently I felt it was time to review from The Telegraph p.20 in brief all the New Zealand pad- On 29 January, Tara paddled from dling books and guides. While scan- HUMOUR p.21 Kaipara Harbour to Glinks Gully, ning covers, I quickly realized that after waiting at Pouto in Kaipara there were too many for one article Thanks to all the contributors Harbour for winds to subside and so I put a big lean on Kerry Howe Layout & Editing: swell to ease. Late 30 January, Tara to start with the circumnavigation Paul Caffyn had reached a reef-proteced land- paddling narratives. Kerry is a well- Proof reading: Karen Grant ing at Kawerua and hopes to reach established author with numerous Deadline for next newsletter: Shipwreck Bay on 31 January. She books on the history of the Pacific 25 March 2013 is a gutsy young lady but does not and his paddling manual Coastal Sea Cover & page 2 photo captions: Abi and Eve cruising on the tannin rich waters of Freshwater River, which runs into Paterson Inlet after draining a vast area of the north-west corner of Stewart Island. Photo: Tara Mulvany Top Left: Melz Grant welcoming Tara Mulvany ashore at Waikawa Beach. Photo: Max Grant Bottom Left: Simon Meek keeping a wary eye on a sea lion near a hunter’s hut, in Port Pegasus on Stewart Island. Photo: Tara Mulvany (see Tara’s story of her paddle around Stewart Island on p.6)

3 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

Kayaking in New Zealand (2005) is In Australia, another father and son From Conrad Edwards still in print. rescued by virtue of a PLB, and an Porirua Harbour ‘Waterquake’ Albany couple (WA) were lucky to 20 January 2013 Paddle Leashes survive a sit-on-top capsize, along Felt my first earthquake in a kayak Sandy Winterton has penned a with their dog. A single phone call on Monday with the 6.2 in Eketa- technical article on types of paddle for help, before the cellphone died, huna - I’d been out chasing boats in leashes and how to make your own. led to the woman and dog being Ronin the nordy, and was recovering I sought feedback also from paddlers found 1.5 kms offshore, clinging to off deepwater point (Paramata), sta- Kevin Dunsford, Mike Scanlan and an esky. The bloke was found on tionary in just a foot or two of quiet Tara Mulvany, for their views on shore with the kayak. water, with Alison in her nordy. Ali- their own use, and choice of leashes son said her boat was vibrating, Overseas Reports then I felt it too - a weird rhythmic Paddlecraft Incidents January 2014 Updates on the big trips underway heaving, perhaps six in as many Unfortunately one paddler drowned at the moment include Jason Beach- seconds, then all quiet. Took us a off Gisborne in January (no PFD or croft, who now has paddled all three few seconds to register earthquake, emergency comms), and there were sets of long cliffs on his Round Aus- so looked around at land - nothing several rescues, four schoolboys on sie trip. Also Sandy Robson who will obviously collapsed or swaying, so the Taranaki coast and a father and soon be paddling across Palk Strait we assumed tsunami risk low and son rescued from the rocks under from India and paddling around Sri carried on paddling. Some folk on Godley Head (Lyttelton Harbour). Lanka. the Mana wharf confirmed it was an earthquake as well as a ‘water- quake’. We probably wouldn’t have felt it if we’d been moving or in deep or rough water (Nordy = Nordkapp). KASK Committee 2012 - 2013 Where is Summer? Ian McKenzie - President email: [email protected] ‘January-March weather is expected Doug Aitken - Committee email: [email protected] to be pretty average, according to Sandy Ferguson - Webmaster email: [email protected] NIWA (8 January).There was nei- Paul Caffyn - Publications email: [email protected] ther El Nino nor La Nina conditions Shawn Walsh - Committee email: [email protected] last month but El Nino development Conrad Edwards - Committee email: [email protected] becomes increasingly likely by mid- Tim Muhundan - Committee email: [email protected] year reaching about a 50% chance. KASK Administrator (Karen Grant) email: [email protected] For the coming three months as a whole, lower than normal pressures KIWI KALENDAR are forecast to the south-east of the country. This circulation is expected to be associated with a weak anoma- Sea Kayak Skills Training lous flow the north-easterly quarter.’ 15 - 16 Feb 2014 - Okains Bay - Banks Peninsula Safe paddling this summer. The Canterbury Sea Kayak Network has organised a programme of free Paul Caffyn instruction to be run over the weekend of 15/16 February at Okains Bay. (after doing an end pour in the kayak) Volunteer instruction from kayakers such John Kirk-Anderson, Martin & Fiona Fraser, Doug Aitken, David Welch, Owen and Toni Shrimpton will cover a range of skills starting with kayak confidence for novices, kayaking specific first aid, paddling & rescue techniques, surf landings & on to more advanced techniques for experienced kayakers. Registration from 9.00am Saturday, programme starts 9.30am with briefing and will wind up Sunday afternoon. Everyone welcome. Camp ground fee applies if you stay the night. Bring $2 coins for hot showers. See www.sportsground.co.nz/canterburyseakayak and www.facebook.com/groups/canterburyseakayak/ Phone: Ian McKenzie: (03) 355 0684

KASK FORUM Date: 4 - 7 April 2014 Venue: Anakiwa Outward Bound School in the Marlborough Sounds See four page registration form in New Zealand Sea Canoeist No. 167 or register on line via the ‘events page’ on the KASK website.

4 New Zealand Sea Canoeist KASK KASK FORUM 2014 - Anakiwa President’s Report for January 2014 from Ian McKenzie KASK AGM The drownings on Lake Tarawera The AGM will be held approx. 6 pm First, 2nd and 3rd places awarded reported in the last newsletter (No. Saturday 5 April 2014 in the Anak- per category, with a forum paddlers’ 167 Oct/Nov 2013) have prompted iwa dining hall. Nominations are choice for the best overall photo, and discussion amongst KASK members sought for the 2014-15 committee prizes awarded for first places. about what our organization is doing, positions, along with any motions to Limit: can do, and should do to keep people be put to the AGM. Please email to Four photos per photographer, per safe in and other paddle craft. KASK administrator Karen Grant: category. The discussion is wider than paddle [email protected] craft, but I’ll limit my comments just Format/Techniques: to kayaks and the like. ANNUAL KASK AWARDS - colour or black and white prints to Nominations are sought for the three a maximum size of A3; I have a strong sense that amongst annual KASK awards – email to Ka- - note on each photo’s rear: category, our members and the networks and ren Grant: caption or locale, name, mail ad- clubs with which they paddle, that dress, email address. there is good understanding of the 1. Graham Egarr Trophy award for - no slides please; only digital or col- risks involved in kayaking and of the outstanding contribution(s) to the our / b & w negative prints. precautions that need to be taken to KASK newsletter during the past 12 - images can only be edited with: minimise harm. Our annual forum, months cropping and resizing, lightening network training events, mini fo- and darkening, dodging and burn- rums, the example we set and prac- 2. Graham Egarr Trophy award for ing, sharpening, and colour correc- tices we demonstrate on the beach, outstanding contribution to New tion. In other words, images may be on and in the water all contribute. Zealand sea kayaking during the past ‘tweaked’ to improve impact, but no 12 months manipulation such as cloning is ac- Do we influence national safety pro- ceptable. grammes? I think we do, though it 3. The ‘Bugger!’ Trophy, awarded has taken me a while to sort out in for the most humiliating, embarrass- Submission: my mind what the difference is be- ing, humorous sea kayaking encoun- Entries can be submitted on arrival tween the National Pleasure Boat ter over the 12 months. at the forum, up to 9 am Saturday 5 Safety forum (run by Maritime NZ) April 2014. and our membership of Water Safety ANNUAL KASK PHOTO While every care is taken, KASK New Zealand (an incorporated socie- COMPETITION will not accept liability for damage ty) and what our participation means Enter your best photographs in this to entries. to KASK members. prestigious photo competition. En- tries must have a sea kayaking or Usage of Photos: It helped me to go to Queenstown last coastal connection. Sorry but no Winning photos may be published in October to contribute to the talk, see mail entries. The competition is only the KASK Newsletter. Photo com- the analysis and reports on drown- for paddlers attending the forum. petition entrants agree to allow their ing, safety campaigns and legisla- Please ensure your photo is submit- entries to appear in the KASK news- tion, and continue the representation ted to the appropriate category. letter, and agree to enter in discus- that Paul Caffyn, Sandy Winterton, sion with KASK re their use in either Conrad Edwards and others have Guidelines: KASK safety promotional material made and continue to make. I’ll pro- Photos may be entered for the fol- or the handbook. duce a longer statement about these lowing categories: two national organisations soon - for - Open (knock you socks off photos) Display of Photos: now keep thinking, listening to those - Action (sea kayaking) The photos will be displayed who have been kayaking longer than - Seascape (kayaks or people do not throughout the weekend and the you, and seek advice from people dominate the picture) winners announced at the dinner on with expertise wherever you can - Coastal / marine flora or fauna Saturday night or at Sunday break- find it, for example at the Forum at - Kayaking bloopers / bugger! mo- fast. Anakiwa in April. The KASK AGM ments / salty humour will be held at the Forum and you are invited to present to the KASK Saturday Night Dancing at Anakiwa After 10pm committee in advance, any motions Susan Cade and Paul Caffyn are keen to host (instruct) dancing in the main you want discussed and to nominate hall after 10pm. Susan is a whizz at ballroom and barn dancing, while Paul committee member for 2014/2015. is not too bad at salsa and rock and roll. Bring your dancing shoes and slinky Email to Karen please: salsa dresses (not obligatory for blokes - trousers and shirts will do). [email protected]

5 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

and took a photo of us. Apparently NEW ZEALAND we were the first kayakers he’d ever TRIP REPORTS seen up the river. We walked barefoot over to Mason Bay for the night. The place was de- serted, not a single tramper in sight. Beneath The Glowing Skies For dinner we ate fresh blue cod fil- (Around Stewart Island) lets, the first of our trip. On the way by Tara Mulvany to the beach to watch the sunset we saw a kiwi, sprinting down the track (see also colour photo on page 2) at full speed. The beach was flat and wide. Huge wind blown clouds Deep in the Roaring Forties lies a streaked the dark sky. Surf exploded lonely island. It’s known as Raki- in lines of foamy whiteness and gi- ura, the land of the glowing skies. In ant pieces of driftwood lay well clear 1770, on Captain Cooks first visit to of the high tide mark. It was an ex- southern New Zealand on board the treme sort of place, as remote as it Endeavour, he mistakenly thought was beautiful. the island was connected to the South Island. He named it South Cape - The mountain of gear to go in the We spent a couple of days in the in- probably the biggest error on the first kayaks, at Oban, Halfmoon Bay let. Abi and I climbed up Mt Rakea- map charted of New Zealand. with the hotel in the background. hura, it’s summit covered in a thick, misty cloud. The track through For a long time, a circumnavigation the ferry won over my desire to pad- the forest and then scrub, was well of Stewart Island had been at the dle across, and on a grey windy morn- formed. We jumped over puddles, back of my mind. When Sim and I ing on 2 November 2013 we stood on occasionally sinking in below our set off in May 2012 to paddle around the beach in Oban, beside our kayaks knees, the thick mud oozing between the South Island, we had intended to and a small mountain of gear. our toes. boost around Rakiura as well. But at the time we’d underestimated the A crowd of about 50 people milled One night in a hut, millions of mos- enormity of the task ahead of us, and around near the beach, but it turned quitoes tormented me, buzzing in my it wasn’t long before we decided to out they hadn’t come out to see us ears in the dark. It was too much for focus solely on the South Island. A off. They had instead gathered to me to handle, so after some bitter good thing really, as who wants watch the Stewart Island Man com- words I began splattering them all to paddle quickly around such an petition and we had interrupted their over the walls and roof with a jandal, amazing place? manly activities. We were asked to much to the amusement of Abi and move from the beach. A few fisher- Eve. I had been working in Australia and men walked past. “Where are you my life was dull and boring. It was going?” They asked. After explain- On a warm and cloudless day we time to do something fun. So several ing our plans they wished us luck paddled by thousands of jellyfish on days after returning to the Land of with scepticism and carried on their our way to Ulva Island. We walked the Long White Cloud, I was busy way. I secretly hoped I would bump over to the other side of the Island, packing my gear for an escape into into them on the ocean further south looking for rare native birds but fail- the wilderness. Two friends, Abi and on a rough day. Maybe then they ing miserably. I’m not known for my Eve - both kayak guides in Fiordland wouldn’t be such doubters. ability to walk slowly. We lay on the - would be joining me for the first golden beach soaking in the sun for week or so, before they’d turn around With our kayaks fully loaded we an hour or two before paddling into and paddle back to Oban. From there paddled around the corner and into Big Glory Cove to find somewhere on, I would be alone. Paterson Inlet. The wind was gusting to camp. On the way Abi spotted a and strong and we fought for every sea lion in the shallows. It was hav- Nearing the day of our departure kilometre as we headed west. We ing sexy time with a lady a quarter from Bluff, I was faced with the slept that night in an open shelter of his size. Eve and I moved closer, tough decision - either to catch the at Millars Beach - an old Norwe- but hurriedly back paddled when it ferry across to the island, or to wait gian whaling base. The next morn- barked and lunged towards us. This for the weather window that I would ing we paddled towards Freshwater was the first of what was to be many need in order to paddle across Fove- River, which wound it’s way inland encounters with these scary crea- aux Strait. As much as I wanted to in twists and turns. Halfway up the tures. paddle the strait, I also didn’t want river, we heard a boat approaching to waste valuable days when I could and quickly made our way to the The next morning we set off early, have been paddling with friends. So side. The water taxi guy stopped piercing the mist as we paddled

6 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

squalls of rain, which pounded on the tin roof.

When the fronts finally passed, I made a break for the coast. A group of seals followed me. I was nervous. Sharks like seals and I was in great white shark country. Around the corner I caught a big trumpeter and fastened him under the bungy cords on the front of my kayak. I paddled slowly in the rain, winding in and out of small bays and under over- hangs and caves in the rock. Pen- guins squawked, and the rain belted down. I paddled through a narrow gap between and island, aiming for Tara in the middle, with Abi (left) Lords River, just around the next and Eve, at dawn in Chew Tobacco headland. Bay. on the east coast of Stewart Is. Tara’s sheltered landing in Lords River, east coast of Stewart Island north around The Neck - a thin piece What I couldn’t see from where of land blocking most of the entrance I was, was a tidal stream ripping safety. By the time I reached shel- to the inlet. A small swell rolled on through the gap. Waves surged over tered waters I had been well and the calm sea. We followed close to a couple of shallow rocks and tim- truly soaked. But my fish was still the coast, just clear of the waves ing it, I paddled over them. There chilling out under the bungy cords. that were breaking on the rocky was no turning back. On the other Relief. shore. Seaweed swirled with the cur- side of the gap, the wind was strong rent, and a lone Mollymawk glided and gusting and the seas was steep A series of strong southerly winds in close and gave us a show. Late and breaking heavily on the rocks. I battered the coast for a few days. I morning we cruised into Chew To- paddled hard, facing into the swell paddled way inland on the calm river bacco Bay, the furthest south we and wind, taking the point wide as at high tide, winding in and out of would paddle together. I slowly moved into the open river small bays for a couple of hours. I mouth. It was only about 600 m of pulled up at yet another hunter’s We caught a feed of blue cod, and paddling, but it was a scary ferry to hut. These huts are amazing, es- spent another lazy afternoon in the sun on the beach. Who would have thought this was possible on Stewart Map courtesy of Colin Quilter Island? After a feed of crumbed blue cod fillets with fresh lemon, veges and rice, washed down with Eve’s treasured bottle of coke, we lit a bon- fire on the beach. It was a warming end to a week filled with fun times with friends.

Next morning, in the faint light of dawn, the girls paddled away. I stood on the beach and watched them slowly disappear. An hour later I slid my boat onto the water and paddled south. The sky grew darker and the rain began to fall. I paddled into Port Adventure, in and out of small bays, under a dripping world. In front of me lay some of the most beauti- ful white sand beaches I had ever seen. They put the Whitsundays to shame. Soaked and hungry, I pulled up at a hunter’s hut. I lit the pot- belly stove and cooked a feed. For three days the winds raged, bringing

7 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

Tara on a beautiful Stewart Island November day, on the granite summit of Magog. pecially in November when there thick band of manuka scrub and into that lurk in these warm and shal- wasn’t a hunter in sight. the open. From a distance, the open low waters, tales that I would later land spanned in all directions looked hear. Half an hour later I reached the Next day the forecast was in the easy to walk through. Some parts end of Cook Arm and thankfully, making of a Tui advert. Sea slight, were. It was hard to believe on this found the ‘track’. I followed it for a variable 10 knots. Yeah right. On a perfect blue sky morning that for a short while up onto a small ridge, but three metre south-west swell I pad- majority of the year, this landscape soon enough it disappeared. I was dled to Port Pegasus. It was an ex- is battered by violent winds. Only frustrated and beaten but I pushed on posed 35 km stretch of coast, and the thickest of scrub can live in these into the scrub. I’ve done a lot of bush the big seas forced me offshore from harsh conditions. bashing in my time but the scrub in the stunning coast. The island’s east Pegasus was by far the wildest I’ve coast is the most amazing piece of The track quickly disappeared, and ever encountered. The only saving coast I have ever paddled. At least I walked along in the sunshine, grace was that most of the time I I’d say it was on par with the Fiord- feeling content. I wouldn’t have could see the peaks, so it was easy to land coast. Slowly the sky cleared been anywhere else. But this feel- navigate my way towards them. and by mid-afternoon I arrived into ing didn’t last long. The ankle high Pegasus. scrub slowly grew taller, and I found All my frustrations were wiped myself pushing through thick chest away the second I reached the sad- In front of me was a wild landscape, height manuka scrub. I pushed on, dle below Magog. The Titi/Mut- where giant granite boulders lay thinking I’d emerge from the other tonbird Islands spanned across the scatted on hilltops, and the intrigu- side, but it only grew denser. I re- glassy ocean to the west, and in the ing peaks of Gog and Magog rose sorted to crawling along the ground barren landscape all around me lay above the ocean through the after- under the manuka, pushing my way thousands of granite boulders. I was noon haze. I was alone in this per- through the spindly trees, my pack finally here, looking down on the is- fect wilderness. catching on anything and everything lands that I had dreamt about for a possible. Finally, frustrated, I spied long time. An hour later, I stood on In past years, Port Pegasus had been daylight ahead through the under- the summit of Magog, the sun on a base for ship building, tin min- growth. But I soon discovered that my face and the rock warm under ing and fishing. At one stage in his- I’d come too far right and I’d hit my feet. This was everything I could tory there was a hotel, a shop and a Cook Arm. I should have just pad- have hoped for. After a couple of school. Very little remains to show dled. hours on the summit, I retraced my for those industrial days. steps back to the saddle. When the The thought of retracing my steps sun disappeared and the light began That night I read in a hut book, was enough to make me check that to fade, I curled up in my sleeping “There is a good track to Magog that my drybag pack was securely rolled, bag under a huge rock. starts from here.” Sweet, I thought, before I jumped into the shallow wa- I won’t have to paddle down Cook ter and swam towards the peaks. The And that is when I heard the noise. It Arm to get closer. The next morning water was surprisingly warm, and was a sonic low-pitched booming I set off. The track wound its way with the sun shining down, it re- sound that I had never heard be- through the forest. It was easy to ally wasn’t that bad. I was innocent fore. For those of you who don’t follow and soon it broke through a to the stories of seven-gilled sharks understand the significance of this,

8 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

I’ll tell you a little about the Kaka- country down there, in a remote cor- At 5 am next morning, I paddled po. The Kakapo is one of the rarest ner of wilderness rarely visited. away in the dim light, heading to- parrots in the world. It’s also the wards the coast. I was heading to- heaviest parrot in the world, is flight- I spent more than a week in Pegasus, wards a place that had lingered in less, and comes out at night. The last and 14 days after I said goodbye to my mind for a long time. My imagi- bird to be found in the wild was up the girls, I saw another person. It was nation could not do it justice. Waves on the Tin Range, not far from where another kayaker. I was quite shocked broke on the coast, throwing sheets I was camped, in 1997. to see anyone. I was quite amused of sea spray high into the sky. I kept to see him running frantically up my distance, slowly working my Since returning from Rakiura, I have the steep track to a hut, closely fol- way south until I was about a kilo- spoken with the Kakapo Recovery lowed by an angry sea lion. It turned metre offshore. Here, the waves and team and learnt some very interest- out that Simon Meek had paddled the swell were a little more consist- ing facts. Firstly, male Kakapo don’t around the whole of New Zealand in ent in their movements. usually start booming until Decem- stages, so having a lot in common, ber. They don’t boom every sum- we chatted nonstop for hours. It was The sky was clear, but a thin band mer – only every two to four years nice to have some company, but the of cloud hung in the settled sky. I depending on how much food is next morning I packed up and pad- was still in the shadow of the moun- around. But this summer of 2013-14 dled towards the Tin Range. I want- tains. The outgoing tide swept me is a breeding summer, which means ed to sleep up there, but in the end I towards South West Cape. The fore- it’s a time for booming. How do I was feeling lazy and the cloud roll- cast was good - as good as I could know this? Because the Kakapo on ing in put me off. have hoped for with only a two me- Codfish Island have just started to tre south-west swell and variable boom, around the same time that As I paddled, a rather large, and 10 knots of wind. A rare day at 47˚ I was up on Magog – in mid No- angry sea lion chased me for about south. But still, it was a powerful vember. From what I already knew three kilometres, constantly slam- place with an immense amount of about the Kakapo, I assumed that ming into my rudder. He flew out of current whipping past the cape, and they boomed all night long, and this the water, barking at me and show- lines of huge standing and breaking had left me a little confused. ing me his big white teeth. I wasn’t waves. relaxed. The booming I’d heard, had only I paused for a moment, turned my lasted about half an hour and wasn’t A few days later, with the forecast bow south, and paddled as fast as I continuous. But apparently they looking good for a run around South could towards Antarctica. It wasn’t slowly work their way into it, and West Cape, I paddled out of Pegasus, until I was about three kilometres later on in the season they’ll boom bound for Broad Bay, just around out to sea that I started to relax. The from dusk until dawn trying to at- the corner. I had underestimated swell was still huge, and I was still be- tract a lady. Interesting. Curled up the seriousness of this short stretch ing swept along, but the waves were under a rock late that night in my along the coast, and soon I was fly- not so steep and nothing was break- sleeping bag, I lay awake, my mind ing forwards at a speed of around ing. Diamonds of sunlight danced spinning with thoughts. Could I re- seven kilometres per hour, despite a on the confused water. Overhead, a ally have heard a kakapo in the wild? 15 knot headwind and a two metre couple of sooty shearwaters glided What if by chance there is one left on south-west swell that I was paddling past, their curiosity bringing them mainland Rakiura? into. The swell was short and steep, closer before they continued on their the troughs close together. I paddled way into the sunrise. After years of Surprisingly, the Kakapo Recovery quickly. dreaming about this wild and formi- team has taken me seriously, and this dable place, I was finally here. I had month – when the kakapo should be I camped on a lonely beach under paddled to the end of Aotearoa and I booming all night long - they’re go- a full moon, the furthest south I’d could paddle no further south. The ing to head up to where I heard the ever been before. The only thing that sea, the land, everything about it was noise and listen. IF there really is stopped the whole setting from being powerful. a lonely kakapo still out there, and perfect was a huge sea lion sleeping IF they manage to track him down, on a rocky island nearby. I’d snuck Well clear of the cape, I turned north what does this mean for the future of past, paddling slowly and quietly and slowly made my way in closer the kakapo species? and pulled up onto the beach unno- towards the coast. The swell slowly ticed. What disturbed me the most began to drop as I paddled further Considering that the only other bird though, were the marks in the sand into the shelter of Big South Cape that makes a booming noise is a bit- from what looked like a couple of Island. Waves rolled gently and but ten, which lives in a swamp, I’m 99% very large sea lions. I was not at my progress was slowed with the certain that I heard a kakapo. It’s not ease. But given that I had nowhere turning tide. I’d taken an educated swampy up on Magog. Call me cra- else to go, I had set up camp in the guess at the tide times, calculated by zy if you like, but it all seems a bit grasses above the high tide mark and a stick on the beach the evening be- of a coincidence. After all, it’s tiger tried to stay silent. fore. As it turned out I’d probably hit

9 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

the left-over fillets the next day for lunch. At least a possum trap- per named Milton was appreciative of my catch. His eyes had lit up as he watched me empty the fish from my catch bag ready to fillet. I hap- pily traded some fillets for a boiled potato, some cabbage and a boiled venison sausage. It was the first fresh vegetables I’d eaten in a month and they tasted good.

From Christmas Village Hut, I climbed up Mt Anglem, and sur- Sea lions lazing in the sun at Doughboy Bay vived a raging hurricane on the summit. Well at least I think it was the cape half an hour before low. I’d hut and baked chocolate cake in my the summit. All I could think about hate so see that place on a bad day, tiny cast iron pot. was how much my toes stung in the mid tide. Maybe the conditions were cold. I wished I had shoes. not helped by the full moon? From Doughboy Bay I paddled for about 55 kms around the top of the When the weather cleared a few days The sky was clear and cloudless, Rakiura. The sea was messy with a later, I paddled into Oban for the there was no wind and I was still south-west and north-west swell, and night, completing the loop. I had a alone. I had only seen one boat in the a 15 knot westerly wind. I passed the feed, stocked up on some veges and distance since leaving Port Adven- long sandy beach at Masons Bay, fruit, and next morning set off again, ture weeks before. The Titi Islands keeping well offshore, away from back around the corner. For four days spanned the ocean to the west, steep the surf. I camped that night on a I waited for the winds to drop, and sided and covered in thick scrub. I’d huge sandy beach facing towards then set off across the strait, aiming wanted to land on them but they are Foveaux Strait. I spent a few days for the faint outline of Bluff Hill in off limits to non Rakiura Maori. The chilling out, fishing and lying in the the distance. It was a glassy crossing, islands are full of life during the sun at Yankee River Hut. I also en- and the swell was tame. Six hours muttonbird harvest in autumn each countered my first trampers in a very later, after being swept way left, and year, when the fluffy young sooty long time. then back right with the tide, I made shearwaters are plucked from their my way into Bluff Harbour. burrows. But on this beautiful day A group of Australian trampers the islands looked deserted. sharing the hut were shocked that I Rakiura had made me feel alive. It was eating cheese that was a month brought me closer to nature than I With strong westerly winds for old. “Its not mouldy! It only smells have felt in a long time. I walked on the next couple of days, I decided a bit funky,” I told them in my de- beaches with pure white sand so fine to keep going and after nearly 12 fense. How sheltered and conformed that it squeaked under my feet. I saw hours of paddling, I landed onto are our lives that anything left out the first of the flowers emerge from the wide sandy beach at Doughboy of a fridge for more than 12 hours is the flax, a splash of colour marking Bay. Although the bay is accessible deemed unhealthy? I resented hav- the arrival of summer. I watched a overland, I was still alone. That is, ing shared my blue cod fillets with group of tuis gorging themselves on apart from the sea lions lazing on the them the night before, probably the the nectar, and I heard the shriek- beach in the late afternoon sun. freshest fish they’d ever eaten – 30 ing calls of the kiwi on countless minutes from the sea to the pan. You nights. I paddled by hundreds, if not I stripped off, ran and jumped into should have seen their looks of dis- thousands of squawking little blue the warm ocean. I swam along, con- gust when I cooked up some of and Fiordland crested penguins. I stantly scanning the water for any Doughboy Hut, with a wooden gate had survived five weeks in sea lion sign of sea lions. From what I’d seen to keep sea lions out of the hut. territory and they hadn’t eaten me. It of their mating sessions, I was 100% was the best trip I had ever done and sure I didn’t want to be a part of it. I I was stoked. Rakiura, the land of the wasn’t sure what the best self-de- glowing skies. What a magical place. fense technique would be if one did Tara Mulvany decide to come close. (see also the photogallery on Tara’s For three days I stayed in the bay, website for more colour photos: and for three days I saw no one. It www.tarasjourneys.com) was perfect. Lucky I am a loner. I cranked up the potbelly stove in the

10 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

recommended for normal sea kay- aks. In any breeze your boat can TECHNICAL be blown away if you lose contact with it for even a moment. A pad- Paddle Leashes dle attached to you will hamper your swimming after it enormously and By Sandy Winterton there’s a real risk you will not regain your kayak at all. If you’re in a kayak away from assis- tance and lose your paddle, you are You should attach the paddle leash to up poo creek. Not a good place to be. the boat so the two will not become separated. If you come out of your There are a few things that can be boat, you should always hang on to Stretchy coiled paddle leash done about this. As ever, the best so- your paddle and will therefore retain lution is prevention, but we will set contact with the kayak. A common type of purchased leash this aside for now and look first at has a coiled plastic section. The what can be done after the event. The simplest paddle leash is a piece coiling means that the leash may of string. Tie one end of the string be as short as 0.5 m long but can be Loss of a paddle will probably occur around the centre of the paddle shaft stretched to about 1.7 m or more to because of wind or a capsize due to and the other to something on the allow movement of the paddle. The waves, rapids, or contact with anoth- foredeck of the kayak. There are end to attach to the boat generally er object. Losing a paddle is unlike- three problems with this: has a loop and the paddle end com- ly to happen when paddling on flat - the string has to be quite long to monly has a Velcro arrangement that water. Having said that, when stop- allow for all normal paddle ma- is firm but which could be released ping to do something that requires noeuvres, and can catch on things in an emergency. Some people find both hands such taking a photo, - it could be difficult to untie a knot these leashes heavy and they tend to have been known to swim in a hurry if you had to release the be quite noisy, clattering on the deck off and appear quite a way from the paddle of the boat, and again they can catch boat. In flat water you can hand pad- - if you had to do a on things. dle (best done with both hands dip- rescue, the line could restrict paddle ping simultaneously) to regain it. In position or get in the way. An alternative mentioned in a KASK waves though, it’s no easy matter to article by Dave Winkworth (issue stay upright. A slightly more advanced leash can 151, Feb-Mar 2011) is a simple be made with some suitable cord and length of shock cord with a jamming Alternatively you can use the spare a Velcro cable tie. These have holes device to attach the paddle. These split paddle you have stowed on to tie the line to and have Velcro little gizmos go by various names board. Can you get at it, assemble hooks one side and fluff on the other. (Dave calls them olives) and are and use it? I wonder how many peo- The largest size is long enough to available in marine suppliers and ple try this, especially with equip- wrap twice round the paddle shaft. sometimes in cycling shops where ment strapped on deck that could get To attach to the boat, a knot is OK, they are used to tension bungies. in the way. In any significant waves, but a good quality fishing swivel Knots either side of the olive keep it even this is going to be a difficult with a clip holds well and discour- from sliding off. Because the shock task. Those far-sighted souls who ages twists in the line. cord is stretchy, it can be kept quite keep their split paddle easily acces- short, and if a similar cleat is used sible on the foredeck may one day at the boat end as an attachment, the reap their reward. length can be varied. Olives can be quickly released if a paddle float res- Failure to regain your paddle or cue is required. deploy your spare in rough condi- tions puts you at serious risk. In Shock cord and olive paddle leash John Kirk-Anderson’s mnemonic for kayak safety, the first letter is A for Avoid. Avoid getting into the situa- tion to start with, i.e. don’t lose your Simple leash for fishing kayak paddle paddle in the first place. To prevent a Below: An Olive (cleat) loss happening, you can use a paddle leash to keep the paddle secured so it can’t float off or get blown away.

You could attach the paddle to your- self e.g. to your PFD, but this is not

11 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014 with your boat for a long period, you Paddle Leashes can attach at that stage. by Kevin Dunsford Many sit-on-top paddlers, in par- There are two sorts of sea kayakers, ticular kayak anglers, should use a those who come from river kayaking paddle leash as well as a leg leash. and those who start kayaking in the While fishing, the paddle is left un- sea. River kayakers only let go their attended for long periods and really paddles when they throw them up on needs to be secured. It’s rare to see the bank when landing. I have seen a spare paddle carried on a sit-on- sea kayakers do this when landing top which makes keeping paddle #1 on the beach. I know they haven’t even more important. yet had a paddle smashed by a wave- swept loaded-kayak. The nearest Didier Plouhinec is a very inven- I come to this sort of behaviour is tive and kayak paddler from removing my paddle leash before Leg leash for sit-on-top kayaks France who has modified, adapted landing, well out before encounter- A related matter relevant to sit on top and invented dozens of things to im- ing any possible surf. About the only kayaks is that you can also attach the prove his paddling safety, comfort other occasion I release the paddle paddler to the boat. This is recom- and convenience. He uses a light- leash is when entering sea caves. mended for surf skis, sit on tops and weight retainer of 4 mm shock cord Paddles break too easily and I could stand up paddle boards. that does not fasten to the boat but get caught in the leash. In all other to the paddler. One end has a fixed situations I always have the paddle If you fall off, you are attached to loop that slips snugly over the shaft leashed. your craft, usually by way of a leg of his split paddle, the other end leash attached below the knee which passes through a tight loop in its There are various theories on pad- links to a convenient point on the own end. This end fits over the left dle leashes. My method is not main- boat. Typically there is a firm fasten- wrist, the loop is drawn up and two stream. I have a coiled paddle leash ing to the boat and a quick release at sleeves of plastic tubing are slid up from the lower front of my inflatable the leg attachment, just in case you as keepers to maintain the wrist loop PDF, clipped to a strapping-loop need to get free e.g. if the boat might at the right tension to stay put. Since around the centre of the paddle shaft. be tumbled in big surf. Bought ones he also wears a leg leash, Didier can I have lost count of the kayakers usually have the coiled plastic used never become separated from his (who often came from river kayak- on paddle leashes. The example boat or his paddle. ing) who have expressed the opinion above is home-brewed. that this is downright dangerous but Didier’s blog (mainly in French) is I have my reasons, and I’ve tested The leg strap is wide webbing with a one of the most comprehensive pad- them too. Here they are: Velcro fastening. It has about 1 m of dling blogs you’ll find with over 400 shock cord and has a dyneema line entries including lots of trip reports, I don’t want to lose another $400 for strength about 1.7 m long, folded equipment trials, photos and fixes. paddle. The last one I lost while and cable tied in such a way that will Web address on photo credit below. Kevin’s paddle leash (flacid!) allow it to deploy if the shock cord is stretched. A leg leash needs to Sandy Winterton be long enough to allow a capsized paddler to float in a standing position Plouhinec leash Photo by Didier next to the kayak, ready to remount. Plouhinec from his blog site http://dplouepic.skyrock. The problem with this system is that com/3147444144-Dragonne-ultra- you can still be separated from your legere-de-pagaie.html paddle, and if you’re tied to your boat, the chances of swimming after it are slim. Most schools of thought agree that if you’re going to be in the Plouhinec leash water awaiting rescue, it’s better to be without a paddle than without the boat. For sit-on-top craft, a leg leash is a good solution. However, for sit- ins, it is not recommended that you attach person to boat while paddling. Line of any sort inside the boat could tangle legs while trying to exit. If you’re in the water and need to stay

12 New Zealand Sea Canoeist When choosing a paddle leash, it is Paddle Leashes important that it can be easily un- by Mike Scanlan clipped. It should not be so strong that you cannot break it in an emer- The seatbelt in my Subaru is a bit gency. Coiled is good, as it is only as of a nuisance, but one day it may long as you need it to be at all times save my life and I use it every time and it has a bit of elasticity to pre- I drive. Same with my (paddle to vent sudden shocks, but not so much kayak) paddle leash. as to become a projectile on the re- bound. Keep away from metal bits if If you want to wind me up, start a possible, they corrode, get stiff and conversation in my hearing about can make an irritating noise banging paddle leashes being unnecessary/ against gear. dangerous.

Get into the habit of always using My current paddle leash (see photo your paddle leash. That way clipping at left) is by far the best I have had. It and unclipping becomes automat- is a ‘Seattle Paddle Leash’ obtainable ic. I don’t put to sea without being online from & Kayak for $35. clipped on now. Whichever paddle leash method you use, think out the It is stretchable to 8 feet, thin and various outcomes – and put them lightweight so it doesn’t bang onto to the test. Consider carefully other the deck too much, has a Kevlar people’s opinions but don’t bet your core, and heavy duty clips at both life on them. ends. Mike Scanlan’s paddle leash Kevin’s leash extended Previous leashes made of solid plas- tic have broken after a few years landing a kingi after I had taken exposure to UV etc. They may still the paddle leash off as a precaution look OK but be weak. because I was close to rocks. Now I leave it clipped, especially while A word for people who paddle in fishing. When I need the paddle for groups and depend on others for balancing, I know exactly where it their safety – when the weather turns will always be. really bad everyone becomes a solo paddler. I also don’t want to lose the paddle if I get separated from my kayak close to shore. Clipped to the kayak it goes with the kayak and that includes it getting surfed or tumbled ashore, probably damaging the paddle.

I particularly don’t want to lose the paddle if I get separated from my kayak offshore. Why would I want a paddle at sea without a kayak? First- ly, lying on my back, with an inflated PFD, I can paddle forward at about 1.5 knots for quite a while. Try it! It Wave ski type padde leash is much more efficient than swim- ming, that’s why we use a paddle with a kayak. Second and even more importantly, my paddle has blades of Paddle Leashes red-orange on one side and reflectors by Tara Mulvany on the other. Being over two metres Basically the only time I will tie my paddle on is in big surf or on a very rough long - or high if I’m in the water - it day on the sea. By that I mean a short piece of cord clipped onto my lifejack- is very useful to attract attention or et. From my experience, it helps when swimming through big surf, holding to dissuade fizz boat skippers from onto the kayak’s stern grab loop whilst being dragged face first behind your running me down (if they happen to kayak. I have only done this once, when the surf at Hokitika claimed me and I be keeping a lookout). was very thankful to have my paddle tied on. Ginney Deavoll swears by them though. In fact I have never seen her paddle without one!

13 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

of nasty surf landing before reaching porting tent. It wasn’t sex-starved Overseas Reports the first sheltered landing in weeks, local natives but a massive marine at Fowlers Bay. During one of his re- turtle that want to lay eggs in a pit cent landings, he broke several ribs beside her tent. in the surf. Now heading east from Fowlers Bay, Jason has more oppor- I was intrigued to hear Freya state Jason Beachcroft tunities for lee landings through to that she felt being a woman on this Around Australia Adelaide. South America trip was a distinct (http://jasonbeachcroft.com) advantage. When Ed Gillette was Freya Around South America paddling up the West Coast of South On 28 January, Jason Beachcroft (http://freyahoffmeister.com/freyas- America some 20 years ago, he was reached Fowlers Bay at the eastern blog/) only 400 miles from Panama Canal end of the Great Australian Bight. when after the 2nd robbery by locals Before Xmas, Freya rang for a catch of his passport, camera and money, He completed his third overnighter up related some of the highlights he felt his survival was more im- along the 186 km (116 miles) long and lowlights of the last stage of her portant than paddling those last 400 Bunda Cliffs by 15 January which South American circumnavigation. miles. But Freya said that on shore means he has now knocked off the That last stage, was around the top or on the water, she would see a mob three sets of long cliffs, the Zuyt- northern section of the continent and of surly males approaching and once dorp, Baxters and now the Bunda it finished at Georgetown in Guy- they realized she was a woman, it Cliffs. This overnighter took Ja- ana. She found headwinds, mud was all smiles and interest in what son 35 hours, and he noted 15 knot flats, paddling into a current and the she was doing. headwinds from 5 pm to 5 am, lots heat/humidity were punishing on her of playful dolphins during both night body. Freya noted her closest shave to and day, and one shark about four disaster was on the last day pad- foot long. In Ecuador Freya was paddling dling into Georgetown. She was across a bay with production oil paddling up a river into the port Jason left Sydney Harbour on 12 rigs, and half an hour spent paddling against a strong current. Passing the January 2013, and is paddling around through a slick or spill of crude oil (upstream) bow of a big cargo ves- Australia – including Tasmania – un- left her kayak in a terrible mess. She sel, she was strongly directed to the supported and he is not using a sail. said soap and water was useless to shore but her long kayak was swept When Jason paddles back into Syd- remove the oil. Petrol was the only onto the bow, just like an entrapment ney Harbour, he will have completed means of cleaning the mess, and for- on a rock in a river. It was apparently a significant circumnavigation as tunately she was helped by fisher- a desperate situation, which luckily neither myself, men in a nearby village. she and her kayak both survived. nor Stuart Trueman have paddled around Tasmania. Late one night Freya had a rude After a northern winter break in Ger- awakening on a sandy beach when many, Freya resumed paddling from Despite overcoming that third set of it felt like someone was breaking Georgetown on 10 January. She had cliffs, Jason had several more days through the walls of her self-sup- aimed to complete her trip back into Buenos Aires by her 50th birthday on 10 May this year.

An official send off crew for Jason at Eucla, before he began the overnighter By 22 January, Freya was nearly past along the Bunda Cliffs. Stuart Trueman experienced difficulty with the Surinam with only Guiana and Bra- authorities when he was attempting the cliffs. For Jason, the local Police zil to go before re-entering Argenti- shouted him drinks and dinner, and really tried to look after him. na, however strict visa requirements for Brazil – three months in country, three months out before a visa can be renewed – will not allow her birth- day finish to be met.

Reading the last few days of her blog, Freya is dealing with extensive mud flats, surf and having to work high tides for landing (and camping) and launching. I get the feeling she is finding the going tough.

14 New Zealand Sea Canoeist Sri Lanka France to Istanbul The two spent more than 2,000 kil- (www.paddlesrilanka.com) 3,000 miles from the Atlantic ometers on the Danube River alone, On 18 December 2013, two West to the Black Sea following its course through Austria, Australian paddlers launched from (www.canoeingthecontinent.com) Slovakia, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria Colombo (West Coast of Sri Lanka) The two British paddlers, James and Romania. with an ambitious plan to circum- Warner Smith and Nathan Wilkins, navigate the former island of Cey- began their ambitious voyage in The two students, who met through lon. A logo/banner on their rather Nantes, on the Atlantic coast of running, were awarded a grant for well designed website noted: ‘1200 France, with the goal of reaching the trip through the University of km 50 km/day 3 weeks’. With Istanbul by connecting waterways Warwick. Both agree that their ath- four rest days scheduled, the daily across Europe without portaging. letic backgrounds allowed them to planned paddling average was 53 Up until the last three weeks of their weather the physical demands of the kms (33 miles per day). Ian Pexton voyage, accomplishing this mission trip relatively unscathed. “I origi- and Dave Rowlands claimed on seemed promising: ‘On our entire nally got the idea for the trip after I their website, respectively 15 and crossing of Europe, our longest por- canoed the Yukon River in 2010. I 20 years of sea kayaking and ex- tage between waterways was 25 me- spent two weeks there in the wilder- pedition experience. Dave had so- ters, from one side of a campsite to ness and had the most fantastic ca- loed the Zuytdorp Cliffs (south to the other!’ reported Warner Smith in noeing experience. After that I was north) and claimed a ‘south west early November. keen to do another big canoe trip cape of New Zealand paddle’. but wanted something large-scale However, upon reaching the Black and original,” says Warner Smith. A question for readers – does New Sea the two paddlers were at the mer- He hatched the plan and Wilkins, Zealand in fact have a South West cy of November gales, contending who’d never put a paddle in the wa- Cape? Puysegur Point is the south- with terrible weather, massive waves ter before, was game. Back home western tip of New Zealand, but and rocky headlands. Concerned for now in England, Wilkins will soon there is a South West Cape at the their safety, they abandoned their ca- be back in school finishing a law de- southern end of Stewart Island. noe and took to the remaining 370 gree, while Warner Smith turns the kilometres on foot, paddles in hand. expedition’s blog into a resource for Despite those years of experience, I “We were very sad to leave the canoe other paddlers looking to make their felt Peter and Dave’s timetable was behind,” says Warner Smith. “We way across Europe by water. “It’s rather ambitious and so it was to had dreamed of through only looking back, we’ve realized prove when the boys pulled the pin the Bosphorus into Istanbul, how- how incredible some of things we on day 21, blaming weather, sea- ever, we felt there was a certain in- did were,” adds Warner Smith. “At sickness, slow progress and both evitability to our decision, given the the time it was just a part of every- family and job responsibilities at forecast and the conditions.” day life and seemed quite common- home, with barely half of the dis- place.” tance around the island paddled. Their 146-day journey took Warner Smith and Wilkins through a variety South America to Florida With obvious detailed planning, of landscapes, including untouched (www.henrykayak.com/) an enviable list of sponsors, and rivers, historic canals, busy shipping On 30 July 2013, Russell and Gra- so much help from the Sri Lankan rivers and one tumultuous Black Sea. ham Henry departed Belem, Brazil Army and Navy, the fact that Dave and headed north-east to Florida, and Peter did not set an achievable USA via kayak and over the past six daily paddling average (25 miles Sandy Robson months have paddled 1,500 miles per day instead of 33) is something along the inhospitable coast of South I struggle to fathom why. America, and island-hopped across the Caribbean from Trinidad to the However Sandy Robson (http://sandy- Dominican Republic. After a holi- robson.com) now has no competition day lay-over in the Dominican, they for achieving a Sri Linka circuit, after departed the morning of January 16 which her Stage 3 plan is to paddle up on the 90-mile crossing to the Turks the east coast of India to near the bor- and Caicos Islands. “After 10 days der with Bangladesh (March to June of waiting for the right winds, we 2014, 3,100 kms). Sandy recently are pulling the trigger and setting out advised she has received permission on the longest crossing of the expe- from India for her trip and the Sri dition,” the brothers wrote on their Lankan navy is discussing giving her blog, estimating the crossing will an escort on their side. Sandy flies into take about 30 hours. India 25 February and hopes to paddle to Sri Lanka about 1 March.

15 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

And of course it also inspired those who wanted to do similar extreme BOOKS trips, though not until many years later were some of his long distance feats emulated. NZ Sea Kayak Books The Circumnavigation Paul came from a climbing, tramp- Narratives ing, caving background. His book was a refined derivative of classic by Kerry Howe outdoors trip reports in that it gave a comprehensive blow by blow, South Island day by day narrative. You feel you (2,462kms, 1539 miles) are there – you can envisage the sea conditions, the scenery, the gales, the Paul Caffyn, Obscured by Waves. calms, the horrendous surf breakouts South Island Canoe Odyssey, and landings. You learn all about John McIndoe, Dunedin, 1979; techniques and organization and Second revised edition, Obscured gear, and maritime history and all the by waves. South Island kayak odys- beauties and hazards of the natural he did construct a clunky home sey, Kayak Dundee Press, 2005. world – from cuddly looking seals made slip-on skeg. These were the to sandflies and sharks. Prodigious days before portable VHF radios, In 1977 Paul Caffyn and Max Reyn- research went into writing the narra- cell phones for communications and olds set off from Te Waewae Bay in- tive, and the result is an invaluable plotter apps, GPS, EPIRBS, satellite tending to paddle the Fiordland coast how-to handbook, as well as a rivet- phones, wall to wall marine weather only. But after that Paul completed ing tale of adventure. There’s a lot of forecasting, and Google Earth – the circumnavigation solo [total 75 humour, and atrocious puns. things that we now take for granted. days]. Not only was it a magnificent His contact with any shore parties achievement in its own right, but it You meet the most amazing range of was generally by flashing mirrors or inspired a generation (and more) of people, including the now obsolete car lights. It was seat of the pants but New Zealand and overseas sea kay- lighthouse keepers. The assistance it was not reckless. He demonstrated akers to head off with a tent even if and camaraderie of farmers and fish- how good planning, good organiza- only for a few days of subsistence erman and others is heart warming. tion, and good judgement combined coastal living. And you ride the emotional roller with sheer determination made a coaster from joy in idyllic conditions seemingly impossible trip possible. In those days sea kayaking was a lit- to the terror of life threatening winds It’s the person, not the equipment tle known activity in New Zealand. and waves. that matters. Paul put it on the radar. His trip and book were truly inspirational. Paul revealed a coastal landscape The second revised edition, especial- He showed the possibilities of in- and sea conditions about which most ly the hardback copy, is a most beau- dependent travel to remote spots of us had little knowledge, especially tiful production, lots of new photos, with minimalist equipment, and that Fiordland, but also for much of the and clear, detailed maps. struck a particular chord with the rest of the shoreline as well. Un- baby boom generation entranced by like yachting narratives, sea kayak- , Southern Exposure. A the idea of simple living with nature. ing involves a much more intimate solo sea kayaking journey around relationship with the coast, and it New Zealand’s South Island, Fal- certainly gives a perspective on our con, 2003. country quite unlike the view gained Where Paul Caffyn had relatively from the land. Sea kayakers now little sea kayak experience when he take all this for granted, but back set off in 1977, Chris Duff was very in the 1970s it was pretty radical experienced for his circumnaviga- knowledge. tion in 1999/2000. He’d sea kay- aked much of the Canadian and US Overall what comes through is coastline, and had been first to solo Paul’s sheer courage and determina- circumnavigate the whole of the UK. tion particularly as he deals with the He had also been a US naval diver terrors of big surf. for seven years. He started from Pic- ton, and went clockwise. He was the It is instructive in retrospect to real- fourth person after Paul to complete ize just how simple was his equip- the circumnavigation (after Bevan ment. His Nordkapp sea kayak had Walker in 1991 and Brian Roberts in no rudder or built in skeg, though 1996).

16 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

– almost as if he has two personas, which may be a result of his rigor- ous naval dive training. He is very conscious of his consciousness. His tale of being dragged upside down in massive surf before he smashed his kayak is a masterful account of his near physical panic trying to hold his breath tempered by a cold, detached analytical voice calmly informing him to hang on a bit longer before attempting to roll.

Throughout the book, there are in- spired, reflective sections on what the sea means to him.

There are good maps and there is an insert section of colour photographs. not into literary dramatics. Yet at the same time the account is Chris’s book is quite literary. He was Max Grant, Fiordland and Be- suffused with his enthusiasms, pas- already an experienced author hav- yond. A circumnavigation of the sions and worries. A dad paddling ing written a most beautiful account South Island of New Zealand by with his daughter must always feel of his trip around Ireland - On Celtic Kayak, 2013. concerned and protective, even Tides (1999). though, in Melanie’s case, she was Max Grant, well known New Zea- just as sea kayaked skilled as her Southern Exposure is not a day by land kayaker and owner of Q-Kay- dad. But overall there was a fam- day report but more a reflective, aks Ltd, and his daughter, Melanie, ily purpose. Max’s son/ Melanie’s even psychological, account of his completed the circumnavigation brother, Steven, had died young of journey. He compresses or omits de- over several years 2007-2010, pick- cancer. The circumnavigation was to tails of some of the less notable sec- ing off large sections of the coast as raise funds for Child Cancer. As Max tions of coastline. Almost half of the time and opportunity permitted [to- writes, it was ‘a journey deeper and book covers his Fiordland passage, tal 71 paddling days]. more involved than simply paddling which does have a detailed narrative. a kayak 2,750 kilometres.’ Max, Melanie and others in the fam- As for many other paddlers, Fiord- ily had explored parts of Fiordland So Melanie became the youngest land fascinates, yet also threatens. previously and had become en- woman and first New Zealand wom- He had rotten weather there, and thralled, if not obsessed, with the re- an to paddle right round the South Is- had at least two extreme incidents. gion. So the initial plan in 2007 was land, Max became the oldest person. He came within a whisker of being for Max and Melanie to sea kayak the blown off shore and to certain death whole of the Fiordland coast, start- The book is very nicely produced by storm force winds. Just north of ing at Jackson Bay, and that was all. and with high quality colour photos Milford Sound, when caught by bad Well we’ve heard that story before. (usually 3-4 to every opened page) it weather, he was forced to land on Eventually they went right around is by far the best illustrated sea kay- a jagged shore through murderous the South Island. They travelled anti- ak trip narrative that I have yet seen. surf. His sea kayak was pretty well clockwise, unlike Paul Caffyn, Brian demolished. But he was very lucky. Roberts and Chris Duff. Summary A call on his VHF radio (with almost All the South Island circumnaviga- dead batteries) was picked up and he Max’s account very much reflects tors faced similar perils, though not was rapidly rescued, along with his his own personality – he is modest, always in the same places. Fiordland battered kayak, by helicopter from unassuming, down to earth, and rock seems to have made the deepest im- Milford Sound. He managed to get solid. Having sea kayaked with him pression on them all. They met many it repaired (again the assistance by many years ago, I would trust him of the same people, and all encoun- New Zealanders was amazing) and with my life in tight spots. Thus is tered great New Zealand hospitality. he continued on. his narrative very simple, straightfor- All showed remarkable courage and ward, and very accessible. He never fortitude. Chris has not just a mental tough- plays down the serious situations ness (required by all long distance (and there are some pretty dangerous There is no best account. All three paddlers) but he has the capacity to times) but nor does he inflate them. books provide a wealth of informa- stand outside himself and analyse his Rather, they are described without tion often from different perspec- mental state in extreme conditions fuss, and with few adjectives. Max is tives. Even if you never get into a

17 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014 sea kayak, read all three and be in- rowing account of running an un- formed, entertained, and amazed. forgiving coast. The trip down the supposedly calmer east coast was OBITUARIES But the one that has made and still plagued first by a tropical cyclone, makes the deepest impact has to be then high offshore, and debilitating Maggie Oakley Paul Caffyn’s since he was the very head winds. Then there were seri- by Paul Caffyn first. It took almost 20 years for oth- ously fraught efforts to round Cape ers to follow successfully. Also he is a Palliser. To complete the trip there Dunedin paddler Maggie Oakley strong and acknowledged presence in was the small matter of paddling passed away on 9 December 2013 the narratives of both Chris Duff and home across Cook Strait from Ma- after a long battle with cancer. Mag- Max Grant as their inspirer, advisor, kara [total trip 86 days]. gie was one of those wonderful Ki- mentor, practical and moral supporter. wis whose heart and soul was into Leaving aside the trip as such, I think paddling rivers, lakes and the sea. North Island this is a better book than his first. It (2,780kms 1737.5 miles) seems more focussed, and more as- In 2002, Maggie’s was awarded ‘Ca- sured as a narrative. There is now so noeist of the Year’ by Whitewater Paul Caffyn, Cresting the Restless much that he does not have to say New Zealand in recognition of her

Waves. North Island kayak odyssey, since he already has a prepared read- 30 years contribution to paddling. I New Zealand Canoeing Associa- ership with his first book. have drawn much of the material for tion and Paul Caffyn, 1987. this tribute from Sue Abbott’s write Stewart Island up of the 2002 award and also from Having done the South Island it a ‘Paddler Profile’ that Maggie wrote Paul Caffyn, Dark Side of the was virtually inevitable he’d do the for The Sea Canoeist Newsletter No. Wave. Stewart Island kayak odys- North Island. 138 December 2008 - January 2009. sey, New Zealand Canoeing Asso- ciation, 1987. The unaware might think that going In her profile, Maggie wrote: round the North Island is easier than ‘So long, long ago - in my mid 20s, OK – so now that left Stewart Island. the South Island – it should be warm- enjoying my career as a home birth For most of us it is a roundish blob er, calmer, have fewer kilometres of midwife, in the market town of Nor- on the map below the South Island. extreme coast, and have more inhab- wich, England, I was an unlikely In fact it has a complex, indented ited shorelines. Wrong. The North candidate for any outdoor adven- coastline with unique granite land- Island’s best kept secret is its rotten tures. The very idea of a woman scapes and wildlife, wicked rips, and summer weather - invariably windy, kayaking was entirely novel to me highly changeable weather (from and often with storm battered, barren until I read Constance Helmericks’s bad to worse to dangerous). coasts. It is no coincidence that so far book Down the Wild River North. there have been only 3 sea kayak cir- She recounted a two-year journey Paul paddled across Foveaux Strait cumnavigations of the North Island she undertook with her teenage (the first ever sea kayak crossing) whereas there have been 11 of the daughters, aged 12 and 14, when and around the island with his old South Island. they paddled through Canada on mate Max Reynolds in the winter of the Peace and Mackenzie rivers to 1979, shortly after his North Island Paul’s account follows the model the Arctic. Growing up in post-war odyssey. At the time it was the most he established for his South Island Britain, I had neither notion of ‘wil- southerly sea kayak trip made any- book – a detailed daily account of derness’ nor had I seen a kayak. This where on the planet. his progress (or lack of), interspersed canoeing book was an awakening. with local history and colour. In Constance was some woman - she This is a little gem of a little book. 1978 Paul started at Makara. This was unlike any woman I had ever Apart from the expected and unex- time he intended to do the clockwise met or read about. circumnavigation all in one go. In pected details of the sea kayaking it- self, it captures the essence of an is- this he was ably assisted by a de- Maggie first started paddling with land that everyone has heard of, but voted (if always cheeky, sometimes her husband Rod in 1973 on the most have never been to. It is also even merciless) shore party of Les- Rangitikei River in the North Island. Paul’s tribute to Max who drowned ley Hadley and Bruce Annabell, plus Her first kayak was an old fashioned some months later. Ben the dog. double bought from a local farmer. Maggie joined the Palmerston North And it brings closure to Paul’s New For the whole of the west coast Canoe Club in 1974 and after mov- Zealand’s ‘big trips.’ So he then Paul was hammered by high winds. ing to Otago in 1977, she joined the went on to ‘do’ Australia, Britain, He experienced bigger swells and Otago Canoe and Kayak Club. tougher and more massive surf than Japan, New Caledonia, Greenland, Phuket. on his South Island trip. There were Since 1977 Maggie was involved long periods ashore, including a with the club committee in various Kerry Howe - January 2014 week’s refuge in Patea. It is a har- roles, including five years as Con-

18 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

Maggie’s first sea kayaking trip was with cancer back in 2012 and we in south Otago: ‘With a friend and swapped emails of how we were do- my son, we set out on a three-day ing with treatment. In March 2013 trip paddling up the Catlins coast in Maggie sent photos and short notes south Otago. In three heavily laden about some of her favourite paddling river kayaks (Dancers), we started destinations, including a birthday out from Tautuku Bay. While head- ‘party’ in the huge sea caves north of ing out to sea, we passed five large Dunedin, and a February 2013 trip fishing boats coming the opposite when Maggie joined Sue and Jan for way into the bay. Within a few hours a paddle from Kaka Point out around a fast moving southerly storm caught Nugget Point (see photo below). us. Unfortunately, high sheer cliffs obstructed our swift retreat to safe- In my view, the term ‘heart of gold’ ty. Much later, after landing onto a applied to Maggie. She was not only rocky shore, we had time to reflect just into paddling for the enjoyment on what we did not know about sea and thrills, but also put so much en- kayaking. Safely back home, I sub- ergy into encouraging young ‘uns’ to scribed to Sea Kayaker magazine take up paddling and also conserve and started saving for a sea kayak. the pristine lakes and rivers of Otago Maggie Oakley. Photo: Paul Caffyn My next foray out to sea in 1993 was and Southland. To her husband Rod, servation Officer. Maggie canvassed in a bright yellow Nordkapp. I was her family, club paddling mates and club members for support against considerably better informed - but KASK members who knew Maggie, various resource consent applica- not yet skilled.’ the expression ‘sadly missed’ is most tions mainly on the rivers of Otago appropriate. She was ‘some woman’ but also of the South Island. She has Maggie contributed articles for the networked with others involved in KASK newsletter on her Southland conservation around the region such lake paddles, in particular her fa- Percy Blandford as Fish & Game, District Council vourite, Lake Hauroko: by Alan Byde Members, Ngai Tahu. It is long and skinny, tending north to south. It has a bad reputation Percy was a leading light in the Scout- When Maggie started paddling in for severe winds. And while this ing movement. He died age 101. If 1977, it was not that common to see reputation is warranted, it does not you want some idea of the huge range women paddling either whitewa- pose such a threat in a kayak. Either of his achievements look up his re- ter or on the sea, and despite being the wind is so strong I cannot make cord of books on Amazon.com. busy with raising a family and full any headway into it, so I get off the time employment, she kept up her lake and make camp, or find a DoC My interest in him is personal. I met paddling. Maggie organized club hut instead. Or the wind is with him several times at Earl’s Court in trips for both whitewater and sea and me, providing fantastic following London when the Boat Show was lakes, also river safety course and waves, I fly with great exhilaration there, and later at Crystal Palace first aid courses. Over the years she to my destination. where the Canoeing and Kayaking has been an inspiration for women of expo was held each February. I asked all ages to take up paddling. Maggie and I were both diagnosed him to sign one of his books Sue, Jan and Maggie off Nugget Point in February 2013. and Canoeing - I have it here now. The Nugget Point lighthouse in the background. My intro to canoeing was to build a PBK 20 (Percy Blandford Kayak) in autumn 1957. It was launched 11/01/1958. The construction was laths on marine plywood frames covered by canvas. Later I sailed it, because in anything above a whisper breeze, it went downwind because of its windage. I made the sails and spars, gunter rig and foresail, fitted a drop keel through the hull and sailed it on deep water in strong winds and my daughter (age 6) cried excitedly, “Faster Daddy faster!” I was hanging over the weather side hoping the lee gunwale would not be driven under.

19 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014

One by one as the years rolled on I Percy was the author of 113 books on building his first craft from wood developed an awareness of the need subjects as diverse as making Shaker and shop blind canvas salvaged from for safety, using the adage Dad gave furniture; blacksmithing at home; bombsites. This was the PBK 10 me, “If it was necessary to know eve- wood-turning; knots and ropework; (Percy Blandford Kayak 10ft). He rything before attempting anything, upholstery; country craft tools; and then wrote comprehensive instruc- nothing would ever be done.” I recall farm machinery. His principal inter- tions and produced drawings that he Percy with gratitude now - he gave est, however, was designing canoes offered for sale to the do-it-yourself me the push that set me off on deep and other small boats; and his blue- market. waters. prints for home-built craft allowed thousands of enthusiasts, who would In the 1950s he qualified as a naval 1968 – 1973, I was Warden of the otherwise have been unable to afford architect, and designed other boats, Riverside Centre in Oxford UK. The the experience, to get out on the wa- including small dinghies, trailer-sail- first year I camped in the centre in ter. ers, yachts and cabin cruisers. By the a tent in the workshop. Saturdays mid-60s, surfing had arrived on the and Sundays were busy times, so my The most popular of his small craft beaches of Britain, but surf boards weekend was from 6 pm on Sunday were his canoes (some 30 different from California were both expensive to 10 am Wednesday. On the way designs) and the Lysander, a 17ft and hard to find. Blandford came up home, 95 miles, I found a fast road trailer-sailer. His biggest boat was with a hollow, wooden surfboard through Stratford on Avon. A mile or a 24ft yacht. In his home-built craft, that people could build themselves. two before the bridge over the Avon Blandford became a useful canoe In May 1965 his design was pub- I passed a solitary group of build- racer in his own right, narrowly fail- lished in Boy’s Own Paper under ings close to the river. There was ing to qualify for the 1948 Olympics. the headline: “Make your own super a house, a farmyard, barn, various Instead he was appointed a time- surf board for £4”. small buildings and a boat frame on keeper and judge for the rowing and stocks. Percy lived there. One Sun- canoeing events, stationed at Henley. Percy Blandford had joined the Cub day evening I turned in to the yard “There were five of us,” he later re- Scouts in 1920, the beginning of a and knocked on the door. Percy in- called, “different nationalities, in a lifetime’s commitment to Scouting. vited me in and we talked for half an tiny box in the middle of the river. In 2000, the movement had to cre- hour. We got a signal from the starters and ate a unique award to mark his 80 pressed our stopwatches.” years’ continuous membership. He That was the last time I saw him, in was a co-founder of the International 1968. His influence caused me to The son of a grocer, Percy William Guild of Knot Tyers and of the Ca- change my life from a desk bound Blandford was born in Bristol on noe Camping Club, a forerunner of pen pusher to one who knows what October 26 1912. He was educated the British Canoe Union, the ruling ‘awesome’ really means. at Wells Road School in the city and body for canoeing in Britain. His became a trainee architect with PE marriage, in 1938, to Ivy Harris was Percy Blandford – Obituary Culverhouse, who rebuilt Bristol’s followed by a honeymoon on which The Telegraph Temple Meads station in the 1930s. they toured the Thames by canoe. Percy Blandford was a canoe de- Blandford later worked as a teacher, His wife died in 2002, and their son signer who got Britain boating go- but soon decided that he could earn predeceased him in 2006. ing with his post-war do-it-yourself more money by writing. designs in the period of austerity that followed the Second World War. He Percy embarked on his canoe-de- died aged 101. signing odyssey in the late 1940s,

NEW BOOKS

For review in the next KASK magazine, by Tim Taylor and a second volume of Sea Kayaker’s Percy Blandford in his Deep Trouble. Scout’s uniform.

20 New Zealand Sea Canoeist

cautiously then said, “I am a lonely Age and Wisdom HUMOUR widow without a husband to defend The guys were on a motorbike tour. me. How do I know that when we No one wanted to room with Mick, Pills for the Bull get in the alley, you won’t hold me because he snored so badly. They I recently spent $2,500 on a young up against the wall and have your decided it wasn’t fair to make one of Black Angus bull. I put him out wicked way with me?” them stay with him the whole time, with the herd but he just ate grass so they voted to take turns. and wouldn’t even look at the cows. The biker said, “Holy smoke lady! I I was beginning to think I had paid am carrying a bucket, an anvil, two The first guy slept with Mick and more for that bull than he was worth. chickens, and a goose. How in the comes to breakfast the next morning Anyhow, I had the Vet come have a world could I possibly hold you up with his hair a mess and his eyes all look at him. He said the bull was against the wall and do that?” bloodshot. They said, “Man, what very healthy, but possibly just a lit- happened to you?” tle young, so he gave me some pills The lady replied, “Set the goose He said, “Mick snored so loudly, I just to feed him once per day. The bull down, cover him with the bucket, put sat up and watched him all night.” started to service the cows within the anvil on top of the bucket, and two days - all my cows! He even I’ll hold the chickens.” The next night it was a different broke through the fence and bred all guy’s turn. In the morning, same my neighbour’s cows! He’s like a Last Requests thing, hair all standing up, eyes all machine. I don’t know what was in Edinburgh man, Wullie McTavish, is bloodshot. the pills the Vet gave him but they on his deathbed; he knows his end is They said, “Man, what happened to kind of taste like peppermint. nigh. He is with the nurse, his wife, you? You look awful!” his daughter and two sons. He said, “Man, that Mick shakes the Old Lady & the Bikie “So,” he says to them. “Bernie, I roof with his snoring. I watched him A burly bikie stopped by the local want you to take the Braid Hills all night.” Harley shop to have his bike fixed. houses. Sybil, take the flats over in They couldn’t do it while he waited, Morningside and Bruntsfield. Tam, I The third night was Bill’s turn. He was so he said he didn’t live far away and want you to take the offices in Char- a tanned, older biker, a man’s man. would just walk home. lotte Square. Sarah, my dear wife, The next morning he came to break- On the way home, he stopped at the please take all the residential build- fast bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. hardware store and bought a bucket ings in New Town.” “Good morning!” he said. They and an anvil. He also stopped by the couldn’t believe it. feed store and livestock dealer and The nurse is just blown away by all They said, “Man, what happened?” picked up a couple of chickens and this, and as Wullie slips away, she He said, “Well, we got ready for bed. a goose. However, struggling out- says, “Mrs. McTavish, your husband I went and tucked Mick into bed, side the store, he now had a problem must have been such a hard work- patted him on the bum, and kissed - how to carry his purchases home. ing man to have accumulated all this him good night on the lips. Mick sat property.” up and watched me all night.” With While he is scratching his head he Sarah replies, “Property? The bugger age comes wisdom. was approached by a little old lady has a paper round!” who told him she was lost. She Bartering for Beer asked, “Can you tell me how to get Cold Morning This morning I was in luck and was to 1603 Pettigrew Lane?” Blonde wife texts husband on a cold able to buy two cartons of Speights The biker said, “Well, as a matter of winter’s morning: “Windows frozen, beer cheap at the local supermarket. fact, I live at 1616 Pettigrew Lane. won’t open.” I placed the boxes on the front seat I would walk you home but I can’t Husband texts back, “Gently pour and headed back home. I stopped carry all this stuff.” some lukewarm water over it.” at a service station for fuel where a Wife texts back five minutes later, drop-dead gorgeous blonde in a short The old lady suggested, “Why don’t “Computer really screwed up now.” skirt was filling up her car at the next you put the anvil in the bucket, carry pump. She glanced at the two box- the bucket in one hand, put a chicken Quick-Witted es of beer, bent over and leaned in under each arm and carry the goose A policeman pulls over a bloke in a my passenger window, and said in a in your other hand?” battered, rusty old Holden HQ. As sexy voice: “Why thank you very much,” the the policeman approached the vehi- “I’m a big believer in barter, old fel- biker said and proceeded to walk the cle, he notices the bloke smacking la. Would you be interested in trad- old girl home. his dog over the head. ing sex for beer?” “Why are you hitting the dog?” the On the way he said, “Let’s take my policeman asks. I thought for a few seconds and short cut and go down this alley. The bloke replied, “The little bug- asked, “What kind of beer ‘ya got?” We’ll be there in no time.” gers has just eaten my registration The little old lady looked him over sticker.”

21 No. 168 - December 2013 - January 2014 4th Ed. KASK HANDBOOK WELLINGTON Sea Kayak Network KASK Sandy Winterton, 1 Antico St, KASK, the Kiwi Association of Sea NOW OUT OF PRINT Melrose, Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc., a network of Wellington New Zealand sea kayakers, has the A 5th edition of the KASK Handbook Ph: 04 977 1862 objectives of: is planned. It is a mammoth compila- email: [email protected] 1. promoting and encouraging the tion on all aspects of sea kayaking in www.wskn.wellington.net.nz sport of sea kayaking New Zealand, by many of the most 2. promoting safety standards experienced paddlers in the Universe. 3. developing techniques & SOUTH ISLAND equipment SEA KAYAKING MARLBOROUGH 4. dealing with issues of coastal NETWORK ADDRESSES access and protection Martyn Smith 5. organizing an annual sea kayak NORTH ISLAND Ph: 03 577 6256 forum email: [email protected] 6. publishing a bimonthly NORTHLAND Canoe Club newsletter. PO Box 755, Whangarei NELSON Canoe Club Catherine Keleher www.nelsonkayakers.co.nz The Sea Canoeist Newsletter is Ph: 09 436 0341 PO Box 793, Nelson 7040 published bimonthly as the official email: [email protected] Diane Winter newsletter of the Kiwi Association Ph: (03) 548 2026 of Sea Kayakers (N.Z.) Inc. AUCKLAND Canoe Club Articles, trip reports, book reviews, PO Box 9271, CANTERBURY Sea Kayak Network equipment reviews, new techniques, Newmarket, Auckland Andy & Deirdre Sheppard letters to the editor, and moments email: [email protected] 53 Kent Lodge Ave, when the word ‘Bugger!’ was said Avonhead, Christchurch 8004 singularly or often (referred to by HAURAKI Kayak Group Ph: 03 342 7929 some as incidents) are sought to en- PO Box 46-146, Herne Bay, Auckland email: [email protected] liven the pages of the newsletter. email: [email protected] www.sportsground.co.nz/canterburyseakayak www.hkg.org.nz Send via mail or cybermail to: OTAGO Paul Caffyn, Lesley Pijpker 1843C Coast Rd, WAIKATO KASK Contact email: [email protected] RD 1, Runanga 7873, West Coast John Gumbley Ph: 027 7270811 Ph: 03 731 1806 07 8248623 [email protected] Email: [email protected] SOUTHLAND Sea Kayak Network KASK Annual Subscription RUAHINE Whitewater Club Stan Mulvany $35 single membership. 71 Salisbury St., Ashhurst 03 215 7263 $40 family membership. Ph: 06 326 8667 Fax: 06 326 8472 email: [email protected] $35 overseas (PDF email newsletter) www.q-kayaks.co.nz/pages/club.asp www.sskn.uniformnz.com For new members, a special price of $15 is offered for the KASK Hand- BAY OF PLENTY - KASK Contact YAKITY YAK CLUBS book - $50 for the sub. & handbook. Iona Bailey, Tauranga www.canoeandkayak.co.nz Ph: 07 576 1492 or freephone: 0508 KAYAKNZ A subscription form can be down- email: [email protected] 0508 529 2569 loaded from the KASK website. Cheques should be made out to: BASK Bay Assn. of Sea Kayakers Kiwi Association Sea Kayakers & Bevan Grant KASK Website: mailed to: [email protected] KASK Administrator 07 576 8885 www.kask.org.nz PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 www.sportsground.co.nz/bayseakayak West Coast ROTORUA Kayak Club FOR SALE Correspondence - Queries 7 Mahana Place, Rotorua Amaruk plastic, double sea kayak, CHANGE OF ADDRESS to: Ph: 027 292 3138 with sprayskirts and other bits and Karen Grant, KASK Administrator email: [email protected] pieces. PO Box 23, Runanga 7841 $1,800 ONO. Kept in garage when West Coast GISBORNE Sea Kayakers Club not in use. John Humphris, 3 Matthews Rd, Gisborne Contact: Mike Peers, Tawa. Phone: or email Karen at: Ph: 06 868 4657 (04) 232 6822 [email protected] email: [email protected]

22 Jason Beachcroft after sunrise on day 2 of his paddle along the 186 km long Bunda cliffs in the Great Australian Bight

Sunset at the ‘Head of the Bight’ where Jason Beachcroft landed after completing his 35 hours overnight paddle along the Bunda Cliffs - the last of the big three set of cliffs MAILED TO

If undelivered, please return to: KASK, PO Box 23, Runanga, West Coast 7841

Abi (left) and Eve on a drizzly Stewart Island morning in November 2013, about to join Tara Mulvany on the first stage of Tara’s circumnavigation of the island. The two-storied Halfmoon Bay hotel is in the background Photo: Tara Mulvany

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- KASK memberships runs 1 August to 31 July the following year - a subscription due notice and up to two reminders are sent out with the newsletters between June and October - if a membership renewal is not received by 30 September, membership lapses - new members who join between 1 June and 31 July automatically get their membership credited to the following year, receiving a 14 month membership - the KASK committee puts its emphasis on confirming renewals from existing members from July to October; and promoting new KASK memberships from November to February