Issue 07 2021 www.gpv.is

Þór or Thor? Deportations Frin"e Festival Pettin" Belu"as First: There can be only one, News: Is it even le!al to send Art: The lockdown's over, and Travel: They're really cute, and Marvel's ain't it people to Greece? Reykjavík's best is back and super friendly!

Back Into The Deep End Fannar Ingi Friðþjófsson, now the sole member of indie dream pop outfit Hipsumhaps, comes out of quarantine to face his most challenging year yet COVER ART: are known for their Photographer: brilliant lyrics and unique Svavar Pétur Eysteinsson sense of humour. a.k.a. Prins Póló The photo was shot at the In cooperation with our pool in Álftanes, which cover star, Hipsumhaps, let us visit early in the we asked the legendary morning to take them. We Prins Póló to do the are forever grateful for photoshoot. The reason their wonderful staff and was simple: Both artists patient guests!

08: Illegal Deporations 12-13: FRINGE IT UP! 31: We Met Whales <3 06: It's Always 4:20 14: Cheer Up, Girl 18: Amiina & The Love Of Somewhere 20: A Gallery In A Gas Lighthouses First 08: Thor Vs. Þór Station... What?! 23: Vaccination Nation EDITORIAL The Pandemic Is O"cially Over In Iceland, The Public Won Iceland has officially declared victory Icelanders are now looking toward the future. The over the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic has been hard and we need to rebuild. The sooner, Icelandic Government decided to the better. Cultural life is slowly restoring itself and unem- completely relax domestic restric- ployment numbers are lowering every day. This will take tions at the end of June, although time, but we will get there. there are some restrictions at the Icelanders have handled the pandemic well, although borders. This means that we have there were grave mistakes made on the way. Icelanders no gathering restrictions nor does biggest lessons in handling the pandemic is that politicians anyone have to wear a mask. trusted science to handle the threat. That’s how they gained The reason is fairly simple. As of the time I’m writing this, the trust of the public. The victory comes down to the public Iceland has vaccinated around 72% of the nation. Our top and how we stood united and we did this repeatedly through- epidemiologist Þórólfur Guðnason said it's very unlikely that out the pandemic with the help of our scientists. This power Iceland will experience a wave similar to those that happened of cooperation shows once more, that the public can be earlier this year, when dozens of people had the virus. But trusted with complicated issues, like suffocating a deadly this does not mean that Icelanders are not awake to threats virus. We need to remember this when we have to fight for connected with the virus. restoring our freedom that was taken away from us through- Only a portion of the world has been vaccinated and while out the pandemic. that remains the case, nobody can really be sure how this will The populist figures of the world have lost the battle, play out. But it should encourage us all to do better when it although it has been costly if you count the lives that have comes to helping the developing countries in the world to get been lost because of their impotence. And history will not vaccinated. We should also show the responsibility to have be kind when looking back to their heritage. We should not the shot ourselves, no matter how people approach the issue forget that, either. from a political view. It’s saving lives, it’s restoring normal- ity, Iceland is proof of this. We have had fewer than 10 cases Valur Grettisson in the two weeks since June 15th. All of the individuals that Editor-in-chief got the virus were tourists who, luckily, were vaccinated and showed no symptoms. None in Iceland have died from the virus for months.

John Pearson is a Rey- Hannah Jane Cohen is Pollý is a hard-work- Alina Maurer is a Catharine Fulton is a Erik Pomrenke Andie Sophia Fontaine Brittnee Kiner is an Valur Grettisson is kjavík resident who based out of Iceland ing journalist by day media studies intern writer and editor who collects graduate has lived in Iceland American political an award-winning combines writing with by way of New York. and an enthusiastic at the Grapevine. She has been involved degrees and is cur- since 1999 and has science student– journalist, author professional back- She's known for her ball-catcher by studied all things with the Grapevine rently studying litera- been reporting since turned temporary and playwright. He grounds in music, love of Willa Ford, night. A four-year-old Icelandic at HÍ and for many years, from ture and historical 2003. They were the resident of Iceland, has been writing for broadcasting, scuba David Foster Wallace, dachshund mix with can finally distin- being our online linguistics at HI. His first foreign-born seeking asylum from Icelandic media since diving, engineering and other such an IQ of a five-year- guish Marvel’s Thor news editor to sta% MA thesis is probably member of the the quagmire of US 2005. He was also a and underwater "intellectuals." Her old human, Pollý has from the real Þór. journalist. She is going to be about Icelandic Parliament, politics. Riding her theatre critic and photography. He loves visionary work is been the o"cial A$er a year’s break now our beloved law and memory, an experience they horse-drawn wagon one of the hosts of puns, alliteration and known for expand- Chief Of Morale at in Germany she came copywriter. Outside but it changes every recommend for from the Oklahoma the cultural program, lists that have three ing the definitions of the Grapevine for back to Iceland due of dealing with our week. In his spare anyone who wants prairies, she found 'Djöflaeyjan' on RÚV. things in them. emotion, introspec- eight months and is to missing the ocean writers turning in time, he likes to to experience a refuge on an Atlantic Valur is not to be tion, and above all a regular contribu- and Icelandic ice work late, she also memorize inflection workplace where island. A rock climber confused with the else, taste. Hannah is tor to the Grape- cream. She loves has two extremely paradigms and chill colleagues work tire- from the plains, she's dreadful football club also the current Drag vine Newscast on pretzels, clay art and cute kids. to death industrial lessly to undermine got a serious so$ that bears the same King of Iceland, HANS. YouTube. Woof. boiling in hot tubs. and harsh noise. each other. spot for ice cream. name.

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Coincidentally, this is how Icelanders have always imagined Loki

is a known fabulist with a shady history. Let’s just say you wouldn’t What Are Icelanders want this guy to be your key witness for a notary signing, let alone an Talkin! About? espionage case. The headlines that !ot folks banned Lastly, a bizarre culture war of sorts has erupted over electric scooters Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Hörður Sveinsson & AdobeStock in Reykjavík. No, this isn’t about THE HOME people who leave them sprawled across the sidewalk. Rather, a NEWS The most talked-about Disney will one day add Jesus Christ recent report said that a great subject in recent days has to the MCU just to sue every church many accidents on scooters can be OF ICELANDIC been the coronavirus, but with in the world. attributed to people riding them a positive twist: on June 25th, the while intoxicated. The solution: ban Icelandic government announced it The case against Julian Assange riding scooters on weekends. This SEAFOOD was lifting all domestic pandemic just had a few major holes blown naturally raised the question about restrictions, effective midnight through it, as the key witness for cars: after all, drunk driving criti- that day. As this was the start of the FBI, Sigurður Ingi Þórðarson, cally injures and kills people, doing AND LAMB the weekend, people naturally took has admitted to fabricating a far more damage than scooters full advantage, with many upload- number of statements he made to ever could, so what about banning ing photos and vids showing authorities about his work and rela- them on weekends instead? This APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart scenes from Reykjavík’s downtown tionship with Assange. Sigurður, exact point was raised by Dóra Björt bacchanalia. And then the follow- better known as “Siggi the hacker,” Guðjónsdóttir, a Pirate Party repre- restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks ing Monday, five new domestic admitted that, contrary to the testi- sentative for Reykjavík City Coun- most historical buildings. cases of the coronavirus—all from monial he made to US authorities, cil, who more correctly pointed people outside quarantine—were Assange never ordered him to hack out that scooter accidents are far We specialize in fresh seafood reported. Sure is a good thing the phones of Icelandic MPs, but more likely to be caused by the sorry and local ingredients vaccinations are moving along as he was given recordings of their state of city sidewalks. So for now, fast as they are. conversations by a third party. at least, the scooter is safe, all week prepared with a modern twist. Entirely unsurprising, as Siggi long. With so many people excited about the Disney+ series Loki, now would be a good time to remind people that Disney aggressively pursues some very broad interpre- APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR Austurstræti 16 101 Reykjavík apotek.is tations of what they consider their intellectual property. Just like their attempts to trademark the ancient Swahili phrase “hakuna matata” in the wake of the Lion King, Disney now appears to be taking aim at pretty much anyone utilising the name or likeness of the ancient Norse god Loki. One content creator learned this the hard way when their T-shirt, bearing the words “Low Key”, was temporarily taken down by Redbubble due to a copy- right claim. Makes you wonder if Siggi the Hacker... more like Siggi the Snitch

PUBLISHER LISTINGS DIRECTOR PHOTOGRAPHERS CONTACT US: or in part without the Hilmar Steinn Hannah Jane Cohen Birta Rán —» Editorial written permission of the publishers. The Grétarsson [email protected] Christine Wehrmeier +354 540 3600 [email protected] Reykjavík Grapevine Published by [email protected] Hallur Karlsson is distributed COPY EDITOR —» Advertising around Reykjavík, Fröken ehf. +354 540 3601 Hörður Sveinsson [email protected] Catharine Fulton 354 540 3605 Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Hafnarstræti 15, [email protected] Seyðisfjörður, 101 Reykjavík Juliette Rowland —» Distribution Borgarnes, Keflavík, www.grapevine.is EDITOR"IN"CHIEF MULTIMEDIA Leifur Wilberg Ísafjörður and JOURNALIST & Subscriptions at key locations [email protected] Valur Grettisson Patrik Ontkovic +354 540 3604 [email protected] John Pearson along road #1, and johnpearson@ distribution@ all major tourist Member of the grapevine.is SALES DIRECTORS grapevine.is attractions and Icelandic Travel NEWS EDITOR tourist information Aðalsteinn —» Press releases centres in the Industry Association Andie Sophia Fontaine INTERNS www.saf.is andiesophia@ Jörundsson [email protected] country. You may not like it, but at least grapevine.is Brittnee Kiner [email protected] —» General Inquiries brittnee@grapevine. it's not sponsored Helgi Þór Harðarson [email protected] (no articles in the Printed by Landsprent CULTURE EDITOR is ehf. [email protected] Reykjavík Grapevine Hannah Jane Cohen Alina Maurer are pay-for articles. [email protected] [email protected] FOUNDERS The Reykjavík The opinions Erik Pomrenke Grapevine is expressed are the Hilmar Steinn published 21 times writers’ own, not the PHOTO EDITOR [email protected] Grétarsson, a year by Fröken advertisers’). Art Bicnick Hörður Kristbjörnsson, ltd. Monthly from [email protected] CONTRIBUTING WRITERS December through Jón Trausti February, and Shruthi Basappa Sigurðarson, fortnightly from Oddur Óskar March til October. Kjartansson, Nothing in this magazine may be Valur Gunnarsson reproduced in whole NATURALLY PURE ICELANDIC LAMB – BEYOND COMPARE

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the matter seriously and advocate for ASK A the idea in the legislature. Things took a more serious turn earlier this year when it was announced that the Minis- Scientist try of Health was examining the plau- sibility of decriminalising cannabis for Q: How does the personal consumption. summertime midnight The reasoning for this is one sun affect the wildlife of expressed by the Red Cross and numer- Iceland? ous other parties: harm reduction. The idea here is that drug use should be viewed through a lens of health care rather than criminal practice. This, it turned out, was too much for at least one party to bear: the police

DANGEROUS! UNTIMELY DEATH!

Despite recent polling showing that some 60% of Icelanders support decriminalising cannabis, the Associa- tion of Icelandic Drug Police bought a full-page spread in Morgunblaðið in June wherein they called cannabis “a dangerous addictive substance” that could “cause untimely death” and must The court finds in favour of blazing it not be decriminalised. The ad included the names of numerous businesses and organisa- tions who purportedly supported this Hi!h Times message. However, it later came to light that the Red Cross was named Iceland is experiencin# a cultural shift in the ad “by mistake.” Later, it would turn out that several other parties were about cannabis use Travellers tend to revel in the majestic listed as supporters of the ad without midnight sun of Icelandic summer, but their consent. for some it’s not so magical. When As in most European countries, canna- Whether or when Iceland will Words: Harm reduction the skies aren’t smothered by rain Andie Sophia bis is a controlled substance in Iceland. decriminalise cannabis is still an open clouds, the incessant sunlight pen- Fontaine However, recent attempts in Parlia- While calls for decriminalisation (not question. The only thing that is clear is etrates the blinds of our homes and ment to decriminalise cannabis use to be confused with legalisation, which that any attempts at harm reduction campervans into the late hours of the Photo: and possession has inadvertently shed is a whole other thing) probably extend are going to continue to face a small night. However, humans aren’t the only Adobe Stock light on some of the more antiquated back as far as cannabis’ first appear- but vocal cadre of people who seem to ones dealing with the relentless rays and deeply entrenched attitudes about ance in Iceland, the Pirate Party was view cannabis as something akin to as the Earth’s axis tilts us closer to the the plant that exist in Icelandic society. the first parliamentary party to take fentanyl or crack. sun. We asked biologist Borgný Katrí- nardóttir from the Icelandic Institute of Natural History how Iceland’s wild- LOST IN GOOGLE TRANSLATION life is a!ected by the midnight sun. (steamy) ritual. tu daga,” it can be One better not be literally translated “Studies have shown that many ani- in the wrong place to “Change from mals take advantage of the continuous Alien Reptoids at the wrong time [sun]shine to rain daylight hours during the short breed- when the reptilian showers in the ing season at high latitudes, the extent humanoids secretly next few days.” of which can vary between species as Taking Over The exchange their What made this well as sex and breeding stage. The skins for a new whole thing so in- bright summer nights can extend the look, hoping to con- triguing is Google’s available feeding time as well as time fuse us Earthlings translation of the dedicated to attracting mates, both of Local Pools by further cloaking Icelandic noun which can lead to increased reproduc- their existence. “skin” into the tive success. In subarctic Iceland, an This is one for all trade in the drip- cine? Make sure to alert English “skins.” example of this would be the singing the conspiracists ping undergrounds As we under- the Men in Black I guess no evil and display flights of male birds of vari- among us. of Reykjavík—pos- stand it, Reykjavík if your friends or skin-changing ous species of waders and passerines According to RÚV, sibly some lurid should prepare family members ritual is scheduled that start in the early hours and can an exchange of scheme involving itself. So, sharpen are acting strange in the next few be heard late into the evening during skins and showers dead Danish minks? your spears in the coming days. days––though spring and early summer; some spe- is going to happen For helvede! and polish your You never know one can never be cies might display continuous activity in the next few Or could it even be… shields––dark with these vile sure aliens aren’t during this period while for others the days. Whatever that Shape-shi!ing liz- times are ahead, creatures! behind all the circadian rhythm remains, with a short means. ard people plotting as shape-shi!ing Think we are sudden weather resting period during the ‘night.’ The Is RÚV warning us of something dark aliens dressed bullshitting you? changes we’re latter may apply to species that rely a steamy sex party and steamy a!er in human skin Well, when taking a currently experi- on invertebrates, which o!en are less in some public mutating from Bill costumes swarm closer look at the encing. AM accessible during nighttime. Higher shower? Are we Gates’ (obviously our beloved local original Icelandic nest attendance at night can also be talking about some reptilian himself) pools for some heading, “Skiptast á observed in birds as unattended eggs illegal animal skin chip-infused vac- otherworldly skin og skúrir næs- cool o" faster during the night.” °

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shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is* shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.isDon't Hesitate! Act Now! * You only need to type the URL in once 7 The Reykjavík Grapevine First Issue 07— 2021 GODS OF ICELAND around a few times (rodeo-style) and flew straight into the Marvel Cinematic Universe as Thor. If Þór was ever tossed GRAPEVINE into the modern world, he’d probably mutate into a superior mortal like the cunning Thor. There’s no denying that PLAYLIST Thor has an enormous ego to match his equally prominent pecs, but there’s also some wit and wisdom tossed in there, voice! “1000 Nætur” which Þór is lacking. Þór also drew the is strong electro pop with emphasis on short straw when he was blessed with the party element. a fiery red beard instead of the chiseled This is the song that’ll have you throwing face of Thor, sunkissed by the southern around glow sticks hemisphere. Despite Þór never having and spilling beer on a “Come to Jesus” moment, Thor defi- the person next to you while dancing out nitely got his––banished to Miðgarður superserious - let's be grown ups of your mind. To be More like Chris Hemsworthless by Óðinn for his arrogance and short- In the early 2000s, honest, that's what sightedness when picking battles. there was a brief we want right now. VG Óðinn hoped Miðgarður would strip flash of light in the indie scene, when Thor of his egotistical tendencies. Luck- bands like Jet, Þór, The Unpopular Fraternal Twin ily, the world of men has a way of break- Interpol and The ing down even the most resistant egos, Hives dominated the airwaves with even an ego with the genetics of a god. straightforward, Brother of Marvel’s Thor Thor manages to make friends and simple, yet somehow capture victories through it all, some- whimsical rock. If you Are Icelanders his OnlyFans? miss those days, then thing that not all *ahem* Þórs get to superserious is the Kælan Mikla - experience. Despite Thor’s piercing blue band for you. They Ósýnileg capture this sound In these solstice- Words: Brace yourselves for a controver- The Prose Edda details a fishing eyes, he’s a softy with a side of clever and perfectly, and will adjacent days, the Brittnee Kiner sial statement: the Marvel Cinematic trip Þór took with the giant Hymir. As often, unintentional humour. He also have you dusting o! Grapevine’s vibe is Universe’s Thor is a superior version of any guest would, Þór went to Hymir’s has impeccable time management–– your Vans trucker hat all summer. But if 20 and cracking open a hours of daylight isn’t Photo: Norse Mythology’s Þór. Now, before the barn, chose the biggest ox and casually bouncing between the cosmos and the PBR with the boys. ASF your thing, Kælan Wikimedia mythology aficionados clench their fists chopped off its head as his choice of bait. world of men, desperately trying to Mikla are here to beckon you into their Commons & and grasp for their synthetic, 3D printed Then, ignoring Hymir’s hesitations, maintain order in a chaotic galaxy. On cold, dark world. YouTube Channel replica of Mjöllnir, hear me out. Þór continued to row to the deepest the other hand, Þór can’t quite seem to This band has never FilmZone TV part of the ocean where, conveniently, remember that he’s supposed to be the been shy of wearing Jörmungandur lurked. The behemoth one balancing the scale, not tipping it. their influences on Born to lose their crushed purple latched onto Þór’s line, only for it to velvet sleeves. The Both are hammer-wielding Gods of be severed by Hymir, who feared the bassline is straight Stealing the thunder o! The Cure’s Superpowers: Thunder, whose primary purpose is fated Ragnarök would come too soon. Speaking Old Tom Hannay - Dog third album, while Norse. defending the realms of Ásgarð (home of The delay didn’t last long, as Ragnarök In the 21st century, maybe Þór would Days distinctly early-80s the Æsir gods) and Miðgarður (world of finally came. They battled it out and actually just be a less popular fraternal Damn—this is some synth pads wash over the soundscape. The Weaknesses: men). When Þór isn’t seeking out every Þór was finally getting an ego boost to twin brother of Thor. Almost like clock- sultry shit, Tom. “Dog Days” is a wild reverb-laden vocals Fishing. Snatch opportunity to face imminent death by match his colossal pecs. He reveled in work, Þór has to steal back his thunder ride that alternates draw inspiration from deadli#s. battling Jörmungandur––the serpent his victory, only to die from the serpent’s when Thor starts deadlifting any will- between sexy funk Propaganda, Dead music and occasional Can Dance and even Modern that encircles Miðgarður––in Ragnarök venom––because I told you, this guy was ing volunteers. With the behavioural ridiculousness Clannad. The feelings Analogy: he’s tediously walking the line between just not born a winner. problems and temper of a pre-teen, about only having evoked are what The inferior cocky or confident. Mostly, what char- Þór can’t help but storm out when his date night every you might expect twin brother of two weeks. It’s one from a band named acterizes Þór is his relentless pursuit of subpar pecs compared to Thor’s. Not to a#er the Moomin MCU’s Thor Genetics of a God of those songs you killing Jörmungandur. The sea serpent mention, he somehow never acquired would definitely put personification of the is actually one of Loki’s children, who I’ll tell you who was born a winner— the charming Australian accent of Thor on a sexy playlist dangerous winter. JP providing the person was tossed into the ocean surrounding Chris Hemsworth, a glowing, genetic and can only speak in Old Norse––it’s no you were hooking Miðgarður by Óðinn, becoming Þór’s masterpiece from Australia who found wonder Icelanders are his only fans. up with didn’t speak greatest enemy. his own 3D replica of Mjöllnir, swung it English. Best lyrics? “I’ve put on some weight and so have JUST SAYINGS you, but there’s still a lot of lovin’ that we could get to.” HJC

Red Riot - One More Dance "In this o"ce, we ,,Að leika tveimur recognise an OG like Cell7, because literally everything she touches turns to gold. Team her up skjöldum” with Hildur and you Vill - 1000 NÆTUR have a bonafide don’t It perhaps doesn’t sound like a wise deci- innocent of murder, when he’s actu- (feat. Agnes from miss duo. This track sion to go into battle armed only with ally a calculated criminal. This saying is Sykur) is a great example two shields (unless you're a viking in used often in Icelandic conversation and COVID-19 is o"cially of their combined talents, an almost Assassin's Creed Valhalla), but it can be means that the one that is armed with done in Iceland, meaning there’s no mournful dance tune effective if you're a Danish intelligence two shields is deceitful and dishonest room anymore for about trying to hold agent. The saying “Að leika tveimur — like the Danish Defence Intelligence gloomy Scandinavian together a failing relationship. Crisp, skjöldum” literally translates to “to Service spying on their allies for the soul-searching pop anthems. No, we want clean production, play with two shields.” The best way to NSA. VG to go wild. And Agnes irascible flow and explain this is perhaps by recapping the Björt Andradóttir entirely catchy, “One could be the one More Dance” is a classic film ‘Primal Fear’, where Edward to kickstart the superb summertime Norton pretends to be mentally ill and COVID-free party of track. ASF A beloved family photo from our Editor-In-Chief 2021. I mean, what a

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Fannar Ingi Friðþjófsson talks bombing at stand-up, The Full struggles with ADHD, and the importance Spectrum of connection Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Of Life: A Photos: Svavar Pétur Eysteinsson New Day For Hipsumhaps

Hipsumhaps first made a splash on the chords I'm playing or which notes I'm sing- lives and figure out what we wanted to do. I The album was indeed a hit with the Icelandic music scene in 2019 with their ing. But I had been working in film and as a had been wanting to do music for so many Icelandic public, who were clearly hungry first album, ‘Best Gleymdu Leyndarmá- creative director in advertising. I had a lot years, writing so much music and lyrics for their sound. Again, Fannar downplays lin’ (‘Best Forgotten Secrets’), bringing of work experience from there, just in how over the years, and then everything just his obvious talent by emphasising his lack dreamy, guitar-driven indie pop to a scene to pitch and produce it, and then publish kind of popped in 2018. We started record- of technical skill. that had all but forgotten about the genre. it. Of course I have a promotional skill set, ing and then a year later we released our "I had music and lyrics upfront, so it At the time, the project was comprised of but I used the same work ethic to do a song first album." was pure production mode when we met,” Fannar Ingi Friðþjófsson and Jökull Breki as to produce an ad. I just switch out the he says. “Except for two songs. I have Arnarson. One pandemic (and several other ingredients. I can go really personal in it, always been kind of shy playing guitar. I'm life-changing events) later, Hipsumhaps but I can also go outside of it and look at it Best Forgotten not really good on click tracks. I can't sing is now solely Fannar and the new album, as an observer." Secrets and play guitar at the same time yet. I don't ‘Lög síns tíma’ (‘Songs of the times’), is in When I point out that many great musi- really have the coordination yet. But I like limbo as he struggles to be released from cians past and present also lack the tech- Unlike many musicians, Fannar ambitions to see myself as a frontman; someone who his contract with the Record Records label. nical and theoretical knowledge of music, weren’t so much taking over the world sings and barely plays an instrument." In the midst of this, Fannar took the time Fannar seems almost relieved to hear it. as they were just getting the first album to reflect on where the project came from, "The project started with me and a completed. where he hopes to take it and the challenges friend, who I met when I was his boss at “I was so happy with just finishing the Enter the Virus both personal and professional that have vinnuskólin in Álftanes in 2013,” he says. first album,” he says. “That was enough for brought Hipsumhaps to this point. “We decided to make music together. We'd me. I have pretty basic goals. Like that it 2019 may have been a banner year for been friends for many years and I'd been would be awesome to get on the radio with Hipsumhaps but, as for so many other like a role model to him in a certain way. one song, maybe, and play at Airwaves and creatives, the year that followed changed Big Brother Kind of like a big brother to him." play a full show for my friends. It turned everything. For Fannar, it was a fortuitous pair- out we had five songs on the radio, I played "I started feeling after the first shows Fannar readily admits that, as much as he ing, as he needed someone with extensive at Airwaves both on- and off-venue to a full that I wanted to have more songs to play loves making music, the process has always production experience to make his music a house, we had two release concerts, then we live,” Fannar recalls. “It was like we played been a bit of an uphill battle for him. reality. got the nominations for the music awards. nine songs, 36 minutes of music, and then "I lacked a background in music,” he tells "He had been doing hip hop music, and So I felt really recognised. That exceeded my we had to play the first song again. The us. “I had maybe too high hopes for myself, he had also been doing some music in his expectations ... because I really just wanted people wanted more, because the shows and technically I didn't know anything. And school, Verzlunarskóli,” Fannar says. “So I to do stuff that me and Jökull liked." were always packed. So in February 2020, I don't know—still don't know—what I'm knew he had production talent. We were on we were going to have a show in Gamla Bíó, doing on the guitar. I don't know which the same page; just trying to slow down our it was going to be the cap of the first album 9 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 07— 2021

intensity between us and I really didn't like that I didn't want to start medication until it. So I really wanted to clear the room of I finished the album. But I was so bad with that intensity. He took it like a champ. He sleep over the winter that I started taking "Do people totally understood what I was talking about. Concerta. I took it for like a month but I had "Bring- Our friendship has survived. We've known so many headaches, so I quit it, and now each other for such a long time. Everything I'm not really sure what my stance is in this even go will be OK." medication realm. I just try to be active; ing people With that, he became hyper-focused on exercise, play golf, to breathe." making the project work. "I set some expectations for myself to shows for [‘Lög síns tíma’],” he says. ”That's the An Album in Limbo together to biggest factor in the whole process—expec- tations to create something beautiful. I The first track on ‘Lög síns tíma,’ “2021”, knew how the album was going to begin and is not an easy listen. It’s a grand opener, anymore? how it was going to end. I kind of knew the a perfect jumping off point for the rest of celebrate the track list, but didn't have all the lyrics ready. the album, but it contains samples of news I've never been used to working under pres- broadcasts over the past year that reflect sure with writing lyrics. So I really became the anxious, uncertain time that 2020 was. Are shows obsessed with my own lyrics; I had so many "I wanted to set the scene for today's full spec- ideas for them." news,” he says. “We've never been so attached to the news as we are today. Our eyes [are] stuck to the news and we know relevant?" Bombing at Stand- everything that's happening in like five trum of life, up and ADHD minutes. We got the thumbs up from RÚV to use the samples." For a man as soft-spoken as Fannar, When told that listening to the song performing didn’t exactly come naturally, nearly induced a panic attack in this to get the and then we were going to go into record- but he received an education on it through reporter, he laughs and seems pleased with ing mode, play the summer shows we had an unusual source: stand-up comedy. this almost certainly intended effect. [booked], but not really push ourselves into Though technically a failure, the experience "This album has been a huge learning the spotlight; not doing interviews or the did impart valuable lessons. curve,” he admits. “I was really happy with most grand regular PR stuff. But then this pandemic "I did stand-up back in 2012 and 2013,” he the recordings. But with the release, it's happened, then everything kind of [went] recalls. “The first set went super good, and not been as smooth, because I just had a bust. I felt like some opportunities were I became obsessed with jokes and what's really big fight with the producer of the going away that were never going to come funny. Everything felt funny, it became a album. It's not that the music wasn't good, experience back, because that's just the way it is in huge issue for me to know what's a bit and but in my gut it felt like a failure, because music. You're [the] flavour of the month what's not. There was really no stand-up our connection had gone away and it had to and then a year later you're not so relevant environment in Iceland at the time. Me do with money, songwriting credits and all anymore.” and my friends hosted a comedy show at that kind of stuff. So all of the sudden we out of this The lockdown prompted Fannar to look [the now defunct] Faktorý in 2012, which were just fighting over things. That really inwards and to devote himself full-time to went really well. Then we didn't do a show took so much energy out of the process. But his art. for a year, did another in 2013, at Stúdenta- we're working on getting our relationship back on track and that means more to me music. That's "The quarantine just made me crazy,” garðurinn—a full house—and I bombed so he says. “I've been living inside a 10-track hard. Like it was the worst feeling ever. than the music being successful." album for almost a year now. I'm focused, “It probably took me like five years to get However, the album itself is in a state of but then I'm also obsessed. I've been over that night. It was the ultimate failure. I legal limbo. Fannar is trying to be released what I'm enjoying myself a lot. I took a decision blacked out on stage, there were no laughs, from his contract with his label, Record at the beginning of this year not to work I felt like getting off the stage as soon as Records, but the label is throwing the book on anything but my music, which didn't possible. So [with] going into music and at him. They have demanded he buy his way make any sense in terms of finance, but I performing music, I was like 'OK I think out of the contract for 2 million ISK and really excited felt that I'm never going to get this oppor- I've experienced the worst that can really have taken the album down from Spotify. tunity again. I just felt the momentum of happen as a showperson.' It’s a fight that hits Fannar hard, but he is having something precious like this album, “So I'm really proud of that experience. determined to see his way to the end. and not being able to do my best if I were It's helped me prepare myself better before Haraldur Leví Gunnarsson, the head of about." working nine-to-five and then producing shows. But I'm still learning, because my Record Records, recently told Vísir that the album or a video [in the evening]. I've biggest fear is forgetting the lyrics. I'm not while Hipsumhaps does own the rights to done that before, with the first album and good with lyrics, even my own lyrics. I have the recordings and the music, it’s the label it just drains you. I've been doing that for ADHD; I can just drift away in some cases, that has the rights on the album itself, and half a year, I released the album and now I'm even while playing and singing." is therefore fully within its rights to pull the back at my old job with the kids, who I love Despite the challenges that ADHD may album. While Fannar’s lawyer, Jón Gunnar As such, he’s taking his project on the working with. My tightest and best audi- pose, Fannar has come to see it as a gift. Ásbjörnsson, has argued that Fannar has road, eager to reconnect with the masses. ence, my top fans. I am a star in Álftanes." "The great thing about ADHD is it's a every right to end his contract with Record "We're going to tour around Iceland. Even so, quarantine has made Fannar strength in most situations in life for me,” Records and still owns the full rights to his Every weekend we're going to have two a bit anxious, as for him, music is very he says. “When I like doing something, music, the matter is not yet settled and has shows. I decided before this album that I much about establishing a connection with I really, really like doing something. I'm taken an emotional toll on Fannar. was going to do a double-digit tracklist, others. hyper-focused, almost obsessed. I only got "It's a really sad situation in the history so I made ten tracks. I wanted to release "We're having a free show this Friday,” the diagnosis last September and I decided of Icelandic music,” Fannar says. “I feel like three music videos; I've produced five. And he says. “It doesn't make any sense for me the system is once again fucking me up. I I want to play a live show at Harpa … now to have a free show; I need money. But I put one stroke of a pen on a contract and we have a show at Harpa on November 12th. need to feel that connection again, I need got nothing back. Right now, after getting That's what this album is about for me— to know: who's listening? Is this relevant? through COVID and finally finding myself bringing people together to celebrate the I have no connection with my audience again in life, putting everything I've got full spectrum of life, to get the most grand anymore. I feel like some digital item right into this year—I'm producing and financ- experience out of this music. That's what now. So now I'm anxious about who's going "The great ing all this by myself—I'm trying to walk I'm really excited about—and after that, I'll to come to our shows. Do people even go to away from the table peacefully, because I probably have nothing left." shows anymore? Are shows relevant?" feel like I didn't get good enough service. Whatever may come of the album, it There was poor communication and no seems like nothing is going to stop Fannar. thing about money changed hands. I feel like I don't The music will go on, or at least his desire Turn and Face the even want to do music or hold concerts. for connection will remain the driving force Strange That's just how it is. But it's a question of in his life. attitude and trying to find a silver lining "I felt a year ago that I wasn't sure if I One of the bigger challenges about making ADHD is it's in all this. I have so many mixed feelings wanted to do music anymore,” he says. ‘Lög síns tíma’ was making the decision to about this right now that it's hard to make “It was just a shock to see that I gave my go it alone; a decision that, although hard to a definitive statement about all this." all in the first album and then everything make, did not damage his friendship with vanished... I'm turning 30 this year and Jökull. a strength in I felt the pressure of settling down, you "I told Jökull that I was going to be more The Connection know, getting my finances straight. I had of a frontman of the project, because we this perfect mixture of teaching and doing were in different places in life,” he says. most situa- Fannar has his eyes firmly set on the future, music, but then both were taken away from “He's seven years younger than me and as he looks towards what it will bring me. I felt really low on energy and I wasn't needed to finish some other stuff, and I Hipsumhaps and him personally. really sure if I had the guts and mind to do kind of felt like our friendship was [taking] "I feel like there's so much left for this another album, to move on with this. What second place, but I really wanted our friend- tions in life album,” he says. “Basically, every live perfor- changed my mind was getting my head out ship to rule our relationship. The shift from mance for this and the last album. I feel like of the sand and just moving on." being a role model to being a co-worker in everything is left to be done, because this is a band with a person, it's two different live music. That's the way I see it. I just want things. I felt like there was becoming some for me." to bring people together." 10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 07— 2021

proposals ranging from changing the existing institution from the ground up to making sweeping reforms. In light of the unlawful evictions and arguably unlawful deportations to Greece, does that argument still hold up? “We don't need the Directorate of Immigration and, in my opinion, ÚTL should have been closed a long time ago,” Sema Erla says. “We need to recon- sider the whole system around foreign- ers in general and refugees and asylum seekers in particular. We should look at it from scratch to see if we even need a special ministry for matters concern- ing foreigners. We need to reconsider the whole system around it, make new institutions if necessary, but for sure ÚTL needs to be shut down—the sooner the better. And we need a government with a clear policy on refugee matters with the aim of humanity and human rights." "I think we do need some institu- tion that will handle applications for asylum, citizenship and so on,” Ragnheiður says. “What people are criticising is not exactly the law itself. The law is fine, in my opinion, it's the practice that's wrong. They're really Refugees protest against being deported to Greece extending their interpretations so that it fits their needs, instead of using it he has reason to fear persecution” or for the benefit of the applicant, which other inhumane treatment. is what they should be doing. These are Cleanin! House: "In my opinion, deportations to people who are running for their lives, Greece are unlawful under Icelandic who have nobody to help them." law,” she says. “They're not obliged to For their part, all Ehsaan and Fahad ÚTL, Evictions and deport anyone, first of all. Second, you want is the chance to live an ordinary shouldn't, if you know that the circum- life, away from war and homelessness. stances would provide for inhumane “We left Greece to have basic rights treatment. They say 'this is all in accor- and stability, food and shelter, the Deportations to Greece dance [with] the law, nothing to see things you need to have a normal life,” Immi!ration authorities draw criticism, a!ain here', but when you look deeper, it's Ehsaan says. “But it's not that differ- not. The Dublin Regulation [is] not an ent from what we're experiencing here. obligation. You can always look further The majority of us are all fully quali- Words: Last spring, the Directorate of Immigra- in the room. The translator was going into their circumstances." fied. We have university degrees, some Andie Sophia tion (ÚTL) made an executive decision in and out with our questions and kept Sema Erla Serdar, president of the of us have master’s degrees, so we're Fontaine that would thrust the institution into saying 'We don't have that information' refugee and asylum seeker rights group not coming here to just take benefits the spotlight of criticism that extended and 'I'm just a translator.' He was just Solaris, agrees, saying that ÚTL could or expect other people to pay for us. We from the general public and into the going in and out." stop deporting people to Greece at any just want a chance in life so we can start halls of Parliament: evicting asylum The two spoke very candidly about time. using the skills we have, use the degrees Photos: seekers from their housing, denying the catch-22 that asylum seekers face "I would say that, in my opinion and have a normal life." Andie Sophia them even their meager food stipends upon arrival in Greece. and in my legal understanding, that of Fontaine (asylum seekers are not, by law, allowed "As soon as we landed, we were told course they can stop deportations to & to work) and other services, because the 'You have two choices,’” Fahad explains. Greece,” she says. “They can give the “We don't Vísir/Vilhelm evictees refused to assist in their own “‘You either claim asylum here, or you people protection in Iceland. When they need the deportations to Greece. get sent back to Turkey.' We took the say that they cannot, they're just not While the decision would, by mid- asylum. We didn't know what else to do. telling the truth. The law gives them Directorate June, be ruled unlawful by the Immigra- We got put in an isolated camp, fenced the right to [grant them protection] and tion Appeals Board (KNÚ), the fallout in and surrounded by armed guards, you can interpret the law in ways that of Immigra- has prompted some to call for sweeping police or the military. It's exactly like a let you stop these deportations. Besides tion—in my reforms within ÚTL, if not the closure prison." that, the Minister of Justice can always of the office and the resignation of Being granted “international protec- send out a regulation that would stop opinion, ÚTL Minister of Justice Áslaug Arna Sigur- tion” in Greece, they say, offers nothing deportations, just like they stopped björnsdóttir. There also remains the in terms of being able to have a normal deportations of people to Greece who should have question of deportations to Greece, a life. are in the asylum system...So just like been closed country which numerous international "In most European countries, when that, they can make this decision to bodies have repeatedly reported is you get a residence permit, you get a stop deportation to Greece [of] people a long time unsafe for asylum seekers—including chance to learn the language, integrate who have protection there already." those granted protection in that coun- with society, learn about the culture— ago.” try. we had none of that,” Ehsaan says. “We But do we need ÚTL? were secluded all the time. Even after What it’s like to have we got the permit, we had no idea what As early as 2017, there have been calls nothing to do or where to go, we got no informa- to close ÚTL in its current form, with tion." The Grapevine spoke with two asylum Fahad agrees, adding: "We both seekers from Gaza who were evicted, tried to find jobs there, because we Ehsaan and Fahad. They told us that, were living in tents, but we were despite the ruling, they are not allowed subjected to a lot of people taking to return to the housing where they advantage of us because of our condi- were staying in Hafnarfjörður and tions. Sometimes we were paid in food would instead be moved to more instead of money, that kind of thing, remote housing at Ásbrú, near Keflavík. because they know how desperate we The reason they were given, through are. Sometimes we got nothing. They a translator at a meeting with other know we can't do anything because no evictees, was that they had lost their one's going to help us. That's just how services at the Hafnarfjörður housing— it is in Greece." the same services that KNÚ had deemed unlawful to deny them in the first place. Is this even legal? “We tried to ask why we couldn't go back to Hafnarfjörður and we were told The Grapevine spoke with Ragnheiður that services there have been stopped Kristín Finnbogadóttir, a lawyer who because we got kicked out,” Fahad says. wrote her master’s thesis on Iceland’s “So I said there's a place at Grensás, why immigration policies, on whether can't we go there? They said that's for deporting people to Greece is even families, that we need to go to Ásbrú, legal by Iceland law—Article 42 on the and they gave us four tickets for Kefla- Law on Foreigners specifically states vík. It was a translator speaking to us, “it is not permitted to send a foreigner not a ÚTL employee, who wasn't even or a stateless person to an area where Sema Erla handing the petition to Minister of Jusice Áslaug Arna Sigurbjörnsdóttir Find today's events in Iceland! Download our free listings app - APPENING on the Apple and Android stores

CULTURE NEWS

We Are The Weirdos, Mister

MYRKFÆLNI World Tour

July 17th-18th - Post-húsið - 2,000- 4,000 ISK

A two-day world tour? We love to see it from Reykjavík’s grittiest underground music magazine and label. Day one features nine acts, DJs, vegan food and the inaugural MYRKFÆLNI world cup olympic games at Post-húsið. The second day will be a worldwide streaming event extravaganza, which basically means each band will be visiting every country in the world over two hours—talk about a world tour. HJC Lovísa Tómasdóttir... in Lovísa Tómasdóttir

producing pieces and subsequently throwing Slow Fashion & Sparkles them out at the end of seasons, slow fashion is guided by sustainability. Fashion desi!ner Lovísa Tómasdóttir shines on the sta!e and So if you order a Lovísa Tómasdóttir piece, you might not get it the same day. Instead, on the streets Lovísa will sit down at her machine and make the piece for you, ensuring that she isn’t wast- Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick, Birta Rán & Anna Margrét ing materials. “You are responsible for your environment Westfjords Wistfulness You’ve probably already gushed to your friends Made-to-order and for the things you bring into the world,” about the works of fashion designer Lovísa But even though Lovísa has found a niche she she says. “Icelanders usually want their stuff Salóme Katrín Tómasdóttir, though you might not know it. thrives in, she’s still trying to evolve her brand, right then—preferably yesterday. But with Even if you’ve never heard her name, you most not only stylistically but ideologically. slow fashion it’s—as you might expect—slow- July 11th - 15:00 - Nordic House - certainly saw her pieces beamed onto the TV “I’m still trying to figure out how I want er. I’m trying to do everything made to order Free! screens of roughly 183 million viewers during to do this and how I want to represent my so I’m not producing any inventory beyond a little production called Eurovision. Heard brands, because we have so much fast fashion what I need.” Singer-songwriter Salóme Katrin is of it? here and, for me, I prefer the concept of slow bringing her unique musical When national hero Daði Freyr took the fashion,” Lovísa says. vibe—and her piano—all the way stage with his band Gagnamagnið to perform Slow fashion, Lovísa explains, is a rethink- Check out Lovísa at lovisatomas.is or on Insta- from Ísafjörður. Her honest lyricism their hit “10 Years,” the group were outfitted in ing of our relationship towards buying clothes. gram at @lovisatomasdottir or @studiolovisu- and quirky musical style—which tip Lovísa’s designs. Those iconic green sweaters While stores like H&M and Zara end up over- tomas the hat respectfully to the likes of covered with pixelated versions of themselves, Tori Amos, Kate Bush and even those supremely shiny jumpsuits featured in Iceland’s own Emilíana Torrini—have the accompanying music video—all by Lovísa. already garnered the respect of But while the artist might have first re- music fans and industry types alike. ceived international attention for her contri- The studious surrounds of the bution to Eurovision, there’s so much more to Nordic House will be the perfect Lovísa Tómasdóttir than a couple sweaters. environment for such a thoughtful performer, so this promises to be a lovely lazy Sunday afternoon. JP Romance & superheroes “For the 2020 performance, Daði Freyr had given me some structure of what he wanted, but for 2021, I had total freedom, both for the stage show and the superhero costumes for the video,” she says when asked about the iconic designs. “I did a lot of research into Japanese superheroes and anime pictures and things like that for the video and then we ended up with these cosy sweaters onstage, which was totally him.” Lovísa became first known locally for her The upcoming Spring/Summer looks Art Weirdness Meetup bespoke outfits for performers around the city, including works for drag queen Gógó Starr and LungA entertainer Sigga Kling. She’s since evolved that into her own fully-fledged brand, Lovísa July 14th-18th - Seyðisfjörður Tomas, which just released its first spring/ summer line and is currently working on up- Perhaps our saddest moment of coming winter releases. last summer was knowing that The summer collection—in contrast to there would be no LungA festival, the extravagant looks of “10 Years”—is full of but luckily it’s back—albeit in a loose, draped satin dresses and cotton jump- smaller capacity—for 2021. The suits. Though it’s ripe with Lovísa’s character- arts extravaganza will feature three istic drama, it’s wearable in all situations—not workshops this year and, of course, just on stage. its legendary Saturday concert “It’s much more romantic than I usually with performances by GusGus, Vök, do,” Lovísa says of the collection. “I usually use Inspector Spacetime and more. vibrant colours with a punk rock vibe, but it’s a LungA is basically a weeklong haven different thing for the summer collection. It’s for artists of all types, when the all the things I would want to wear. And it’s town of Seyðisfjörður bursts forth very comfortable—I’m not doing super tight with music, art and spontaneous no-stretch fabrics. It’s comfortable so anyone creativity. HJC can wear them.” Drag artist Gógó Starr in a casual Lovísa look The Reykjavík Grapevine 12 Culture Issue 07— 2021

entertained while you watch some risqué burlesque. “Real sheep, of Mr. Magic—a magician—will be journeying to our fair island to offer course, will be in special magic classes tailored for attendance at the kids ages five and up. Each one- hour lesson will teach one special concert, so please trick and the ins-and-outs of how it’s done and also how to perform it. be mindful that the That said, at the end of the lesson, concert is for them, they will have to take Mr. Magic’s magic oath: #1 Practice practice not for you.” practice! #2 Never tell the secret. #3 Always clean your room. See? Not only will your kid learn how to impress their friends, but they will also become better people. Win- win. Magic is one of the oldest art forms. Back in the old days, troupes would travel from city to city in co- lourful wagons, entertaining the masses with sleight of hand and hypnotism. Ok, we don’t exactly know if that’s true, but it happens in movies, so we’re going with it. As times changed, Houdini mas- tered the art of escape and Penn & Now that's some fringe Teller added a comedic edge. Then, of course, Harry Potter appeared. of Fringe’s most eccentric and ex- It’s unclear if Mr. Magic will help citing shows this year, ‘Sheep Mu- the kids practice their Patronus, sic’ by Hafdís Bjarnadóttir and the though—we’ll have to get back to Grow That Frin!e Out Passepartout Duo, which consists you. of Nicoletta Favari and Christopher The Grapevine’s picks for this year’s Reykjavík Salvito. At the lovely Árbæjar Folk The Dreamer by St. Edgar Museum, the group will create their Fringe Festival own kvöldvaka as they serenade July 10th - 22:00 - Tjarnarbíó Iceland’s prized animals—sheep Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Patrik Ontkovic, Kirsti Urpa & Provided By Fringe

After a COVID-friendly 2020 edi- or just a child,” Storm writes, ex- is an old one. It refers back to those tion, Reykjavík Fringe is back with plaining that the show features a idyllic agrarian times when Ice- a vaccine-friendly 2021 program. melange of musical arrangements landers would spend their nights Yup, we’re talking in-person and sharp words. huddled together in someone’s liv- shows—a heck of a lot of them! For Along with the performance, ing room, just entertaining each those not in the know, the Fringe they’ll be dropping two songs at other with whatever they had. Festival is an experimental theatre the festival—”Flowers” and “Look Someone would play guitar; others festival that allows those making at Me”—both of which will be fea- would chime in with their voices as non-traditional performances to tured in the show. Each track ex- they knitted a sweater. The beer and get a main slot and shine. plores post-traumatic stress disor- the good vibes would be flowing. This year features a wide plethora der and the survival tactics used by Remember those cold nights? of entertainment, from burlesque The Clown to deal with to cat comedy to aerial extrava- such a debilitating ill- ganzas and more. While picking ness. shows felt a bit like choosing a fa- If you’re still not vourite child, here are a few of the convinced by Storm’s Grapevine’s not-to-miss events. As words, know that the St. Edgar always, an official Grapevine panel show was awarded the will present our annual Grapevine Nordic Fringe Net- Award to our favourite act at the work Award in 2019 and humans—with International burlesque/drag close of the festival. Let the games and the Grand Prix at a selection of sheep- superstar St. Edgar is here for a begin! last year’s Reykjavík approved tunes. 50-minute one-man fantasy ‘The Fringe Festival, where They’ve spent the Dreamer.’ The show—which actu- Storm: The Clown On The it was presented digi- last months travel- ally will take place on the Saint’s Fifth Floor tally, so it’s gotta be ling around to dif- birthday—is about a drag per- good! You can explore ferent herds, play- former who dedicates their life to July 8-10th at 19:00 - Bar Ananas the world of Storm ing music to see beauty, glamour and art (cue the Dunder pre-Clown on what got those sheep song from ‘Party Monster’). Inspir- Meet Storm Dunder: a non-binary their Instagram (@ hooves grooving, so ing that quest, though, is a person multi-media artist whose works stormdunder) or on they’re experts in simply searching for self-worth seek to showcase the most glorious, YouTube, Spotify and this emerging genre. and acceptance. While you might grandiose and grotesque parts of more. Real sheep, of think of drag shows as places where existence. Now, journey with them course, will be in dolled-up queens shimmy to “Be- to The Fifth Floor, a topsy-turvy Sheep Music attendance at the lieve,” this one goes beyond any- land residing in the worlds between concert, so please thing you might see on a certain reality and fiction. “‘The Clown on July 3rd - 17:00 - be mindful that the TV show. No, it’s a reflection on the the Fifth Floor’ tells the story of a Árbæjarsafn concert is for them, dark side of the search for beauty creature that just wants to know not you. You are in- and perfection—an emotional roll- if they were the hero, the villain, The word ‘Kvöldvaka’ vited to join in the ercoaster about the pitfalls of being festivities, nonethe- a performer. less. If you miss it “The Dreamer is a show that at Fringe, the group started to melt in my head two will be touring years ago. It’s a story that lies close across Iceland and to my heart. Some parts of it are in- the Faroes this sum- spired by my own life experiences,” Storm Dunder © 2021, Kirsti Urpa mer entertaining our St. Edgar told the Grapevine. “The furry friends. show aspires to spread awareness of mental illness and self love. In The kvöldvaka is still achievable Mr. Magic: Alexander today's society we tend to drown nowadays, but often a bit less per- Smith our feelings until we can’t control sonal as there is inevitably some them anymore. With that said, pre- patron posting all of it online to July 4th, 6th & 8th at 17:00, July 10th pare for an extremely physical and prove to their “haters” that their at 15:00 - Fringe Hub emotional show.” life is more fun than theirs. Not that We also must stress that this we’d do that. No sir. Oh, you thought we didn’t have any- is a 50-minute show—how does a Now add to that the age-old ques- thing for the kids? How silly you burlesque/drag performer do a solo tion, “What kind of music would a must feel! No, we at the Grapevine show for that long? Think of the Mr. Magic doing some magic sheep enjoy?” and you’ve got one understand that the tots have to be stamina! OUR STORES IN REYKJAVÍK: FARMERS & FRIENDS The Reykjavík Grapevine 14 Best of Reykjavík Issue 07— 2021 Cheer Up, Dear Live, Laugh & Love your way to a better day with the Grapevine

Words: The Grapevine Photos: Art Bicnick

“It can’t rain all the time,” Eric Draven famously said. However, in a town with weather like Reykjavík, it can definitely feel like it does. Listen—we all have bad days, so take a page out of the Grapevine’s book and fight away those blues at our favourite local places.

Brittnee Kiner Andie Sophia Fontaine If I ever start feeling down or homesick, a I feel best when I’m not reminded that I live full-on recovery day commences to fight back next to the sea, aka the world’s toilet. So to the blues. There’s little that I love more than cheer myself up here in Reykjavík, I like to being outdoors and moving my body, so seek- walk up to Öskjuhlíð, the forested area that ing out a good hike is my ultimate remedy surrounds Perlan, and just kinda wander to any hint of sadness; a recent favorite of around. Going off the marked trails and into mine is Glymur, followed by its leg numbing the denser part of the woods is especially re- river crossing halfway through the roundtrip laxing. Half an hour in this setting and I feel venture. Anyone with a hint of sanity would a great deal better. If it happens to be rain- grab food afterward—the core of any good ing out, though, then I like to go to Borgar- hiking trip. Once I’m hangry and hiked-out, bókasafnið, the library on Tryggvagata. Pick I fuel back up with Dragon Dim Sum and up literally any book, or a stack of manga, then their heavenly, plumptious dumplings filled head up to one of the top floors and sit by a with flavours that will send you straight to window in the “study area” to read in peace. Valhalla. If dim sum isn’t enough to drag me It’s quite lovely. out of a rut, I love to toss in a climbing session Woohoo! at Klifurhúsið—a sure-fire way to pull any south road to Þorlákshöfn) and pretend that to end a day is at Ísbúð Vesturbæjar. Mix in active guy or gal from any depths of despair. we are on a another planet while navigating your favourite candy and you’ll be happy as a the narrow pass back to Reykjavík. clam again.

Valur Grettisson

As a family man and therefore no longer an individual, but some kind of slave of enter- John Pearson tainment for my children, the best way to Hannah Jane spend the day is to get in the car and head The birdlife around Reykjavík’s lakes and south over Hellisheiði. First we would visit Alina Maurer The best cure for a sad day is some confidence, ponds offers the world-weary a natural source the wonderful old school swimming pool in sun and a little bit of fight-or-flight induced of therapy, free of charge. At Tjörnin—a.k.a. Hveragerði. It’s beautiful architecture and Whenever I’m feeling down, I remind myself dopamine. I’d start my day at the aptly-named “Honky Pond” due to its noisy avian resi- the view over the town is nothing less than that I’m probably just missing out on Vita- Adrenalíngarðurinn with a group of friends dents—one can enjoy the company of greylag sublime. Afterwards we would drive all the min D, “the happy hormone.” The best thing for some bonding. The little ropes course an geese, whooper swans, mallards and some- way to the small petting zoo in Slakki, not one can then do, is to rush to Nauthólsvík. hour away from the city gets the blood pump- times even eider ducks. Take some seeds that far from Geysir and Gullfoss. There we Reykjavík’s geothermal golden beach—with ing with a series of climbs and jumps that or sweetcorn niblets to feed them, but not would pet some silly little kittens and visit just the right amount of imagination, you’ll can’t help but induce smiles. Afterwards, it’s a bread as that’s not good for them. The experi- the feisty parrots. This would be followed by a feel you’ve been transported to the Mediter- vegan mukbang at KFC whose vegan chicken ence is sure to ground you and soothe your round of minigolf. On our way back, we would ranean. Never forget sunscreen; sunburns is, like… scarily real. Then, it’s a hop over to soul (assuming you have one). Be careful of head to Selfoss to visit Mathöll Suðurlands are surprisingly easy to obtain on this cold Vínstúkan Tíu sopar for some natural wine, those goose turds on the surrounding paths, and grab a bite at one of the many places you rock. If the dopamine levels are not high which I’ve convinced myself is healthy since it though. They can reach a considerable size— can find there. If the kids are not already enough yet, I highly recommend going to has “natural” right in its name. Voilá. (Then I greylag geese can get through one hell of a lot asleep in the car before you get to Hveragerði, Elliðaárdalur and watching all the adorable, go home and binge-watch ‘True Blood’.) of seeds and sweetcorn niblets—and slipping we would take a left turn before we go up to wild bunnies roaming around, munching on on one might shatter that new-found peace Hellisheiðin, and drive Kambar back (the some treats. Speaking of treats: A good way of yours.

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Bar & Restaurant Pocket Hverfisgata 26 Reykjavík Map Places We Like Best Of Reykjavík Bar & Restaurant Hver!sgata 26 Perfect Day Dance, jive & have the time of your life SIGURÐUR GUÐMUNDSSON “R2D2 is actually the best thing to THE ever happen to the universe.” ALHEIMURINN UNIVERSE ER Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick Alda Karen Hjaltalín friends... Which always happens to didn’t they? Alda Karen is a writer and speaker include a lot of bottomless mimosas, I’m very inspired now so it’s off who you might know for her cel- of course. to a soccer practice in Akureyri at ebrated Life Masterclass series and Boginn with FC Smice—we were once IS A her best selling book ‘Lífsbiblían’. Grandma knows best sponsored by Smirno! and decided Here’s her perfect day! to keep the “smice” name but that’s After brunch, I’d go do a lecture, a long story, even longer than the Note: It’s my Perfect Day, and so I have where I talk to people about this story behind “Fearcity” the name of LJÓÐ in my possession a space age tele- weird but fun life experience we’re my soccer club in NYC, which involves portation device that allows me to having together. Isn’t it insane how some ex-cons, but I don’t think they’d travel to all my favourite places—my we are all so concerned about life want me talking about them in an hometown Akureyri, New York City, being short when it’s actually the lon- Icelandic paper—my team, where I’m where I live, and Los Angeles, where gest thing you will ever do? a midfielder. I will be moving to next year—in but Then I’d head to Akureyri to have POEM a moment. some co!ee with the family at Barr Bringing balance to the night Kaffihús in Hof. I’d definitely take 1 0 . 0 7 . " 1 5 . 0 8 . 2 0 2 1 Dopamine systems go some time to have a one-on-one A"er I’m all fresh a"er practise, I’d with my grandma—that woman’s got teleport all my friends from LA and My Perfect Day would definitely start some kick-ass life advice. I’ll give you Reykjavík over to NYC to Riis Park BRÆÐSLAN, in LA with a workout on the beach a taste: Watch out for your thoughts Beach for a beach barbeque. I’d with some of my friends. We’d get when you’re alone and watch out play some more soccer while other our blood pumping to get our dopa- for your behaviour when you’re in a friends had a few games of beach DJÚPIVOGUR

mine systems working for the day group. A"er giving grandma and my volleyball. Then we’d watch the sun- SÓKNARÁÆTLUN AUSTURLANDS and we’d end the workout by running parents a big old family hug, I take my set together and talk about the into the ocean. cousins out on the golf course and beauty that is life and friendship. Then, it’s time to pop over to New whoop their ass on the green eagle At the end of the night, I’d have York City for brunch because no wise at Þverá Golf Course. (Golf peeps a movie night watching all the Star one does brunch like New Yorkers will know what I’m talking about.) Wars prequels with my surprise do brunch. My favourite restaurant It’s been a big day already, so then guests, Abraham Hicks, Brené Brown, Venue Finder at the moment is Ladybird; we’d get I’d take a little break to read by the Gloria Steinem, Julia Roberts, Mark Venues Museums & Galleries four vegan tapas dishes together. harbour in Akureyri with my feet in Manson and Alan Watts and talk The numbers (i.e. E4) tell you the position ART67 The Penis Museum Ásmundarsafn There’s something about sharing the ocean. Right now I’m reading about human behavior and how R2D2 on the map on the next page. The letter Laugavegur 67 F7 Kalkofnsvegur 2 D4 Sigtún Open daily 9-21 Open daily 10-18 Open daily 10-17 is the row, the number is the column. food while you talk philosophy and Poetics by Aristotle and I’m loving it. is actually the best thing to ever hap- Ásmundarsalur Kirsuberjatréð Reykjavík City Library contemplate life with your best The Greeks really knew what was up pen to the universe. Austur Mengi Freyjugata 41 G6 Vesturgata 4 D3 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Austurstræti 7 D3 Óðinsgata 2 F5 Open Tue-Sun 8-17 M-F 10-18, Sat-Sun Mon-Thu 10-19, Fri 11- 10-17 18, Sat-Sun 13-17 American Bar Nordic House Aurora Reykjavík Austurstræti 8 D3 Sturlagata 5 H2 Grandagarður 2 B1 Kling & Bang Árbæjarsafn Open 09-21 Grandagarður 20 A4 Kistuhylur 4 Bíó Paradís Ölsmiðjan W-Sun 14-18, Th 12-21 Open daily 13-17 Hverfisgata 54 E5 Lækjargata 10 E3 Ásgrímur Jónsson t Museum Living Art Museum The Settlement Bravó Paloma Bergstaðastr. 74 G4 Granadarður 20 A4 Exhibition Vital Info Laugavegur 22 E5 Naustin D3 July 8-Sep 1, Mon-Fri T-Sun 12-18, Th 12-21 Aðalstræti 16 D3 Open daily 9-18 Dillon Prikið Berg Contemporary Mokka Kaffi Laugavegur 30 E5 Bankastræti 12 E4 Klapparstígur 16 E5 Skólavörðustíg. 3A E5 Reykjavík Museum Useful Numbers Opening Hours - Bars & Clubs Public Toilets Tu-F 11-17, Sat 13-17 Open daily 9-18:30 of Photography Dubliner R6013 Tryggvagata 15 D3 Emergency: 112 Bars can stay open until 1:00 on week- Public toilets in the centre can be found Naustin 1-3 D3 Ingólfsstræti 20 E4 The Culture House Museum of Design Mon-Thu 10-18, Fri 11- Hverfisgata 15 E5 and Applied Art 18, Sat-Sun 13-18 On-call doctors: 1770 days and weekends until 4:30. inside the green-poster covered towers English Pub Röntgen Open daily 10–17 Garðatorg 1 Austurstræti 12 D3 Hverfisgata 12 E5 Open Tu-Sun 12-17 Saga Museum Dental emergency: 575 0505 located at Hlemmur, Ingólfstorg, by The Einar Jónsson Grandagarður 2 B2 Opening Hours - Shops & Banks Gaukurinn Reykjavík Roasters Museum The National Open daily 10-18 Taxi: Hreyfill: 588 5522 - BSR: 561 0000 Hallgrímskirkja, by Reykjavík Art Mu- Tryggvagata 22 D3 Kárastígur 1 F5 Eiriksgata G5 Gallery of Iceland Most shops: Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16, seum, Lækjargata and by Eymundsson Open Tue–Sun 10–17 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 F3 Sigurjón Ólafsson Hard Rock Café Tjarnarbíó Open daily 10–17 Museum Post Office Sun closed. Banks: Mon-Fri 09-16 on Skólavörðustígur. Toilets can also be Lækjargata 2a D3 Tjarnargata 12 E3 Exxistenz Laugarnestangi 70 Bergstaðast. 25b F4 The National Open Tu-Sun 14-17 The downtown post office has moved to found inside the Reykjavík City Hall and Iðnó Museum Swimming Pools Vonarstræti 3 E3 Gallerí List Suðurgata 41 G2 SÍM Hagatorg 1, open Mon–Fri, 09:00–17:00. the Reykjavík Library. Skipholt 50A H10 Open daily 10–17 Hafnarstræti 16 D3 Sundhöllin, the downtown pool at Kex Hostel M-F 11-18, Sat 11-16 Open Mon-Fri 10-16 Skúlagata 28 E7 The Nordic House Pharmacies Barónsstígur, is an outdoor swimming Public Transport Hafnarborg Sturlugata 5 H2 Tveir Hrafnar Kaffibarinn Strandgata 34, 220 Thu-Tu 11-17, W 11-20 Baldursgata 12 G4 Lyf og heilsa, Fiskislóð 1, tel: 561 4600 pool with hot tubs and a diving board. Most buses run every 20–30 minutes Bergstaðastræti 1 E4 Open Wed-Mon 12-17 Open Fri-Sat 13-16 Hafnarhús Lyfja, Hafnarstræti 19, tel: 552 4045 More pools: gpv.is/swim Fare: 490 ISK adults, 245 ISK children. Kiki Queer Bar Hverfisgallerí Tryggvagata 17 D3 Wind & Weather Laugavegur 22 E5 Hverfisgata 4 D4 Open 10-17, Thu 10-22 Window Gallery Open: Mon-Thu from 06:30–22. Buses run from 06–24:00, and 7–04:30 on Tu-Fri 13-17, Sat 14-17 Hverfisgata 37 E5 Loft Kjarvalsstaðir Sat from 08–16. Sun from 10–18. weekends. More info: www.bus.is. Bankastræti 7 E4 i8 Gallery Flókagata 24 H8 Tryggvagata 16 D3 Open daily 10-17 Tu-Fri 11-18, Sat 13-17 A Downtown & Just behind the University of A Reykjavík overlooking the Nauthólsvík Harbour DistrictÐ geothermal beach is Nauthóll, the FISKISLÓ Get the bigger, moreThe detailed version of The ReykjavíkMap Grapevine definition of a hidden summertime ÐUR City Map at your nearest hotel or guesthouse, with selections from our gem. The restaurant is one of those Best-Of awards, vital info, downtown bus stops and a wider view of the city. places that downtown Reykjavík rats GRANDAGAR ELEGANT PREMISES might call “too far away,” but with IN THE HEART OF the advent of public scooters, you B Maritime REYKJAVIK 6. Snaps can arrive there in style in but 15 ! Museum minutes. Without hyperbole, there BREAKFAST and BRUNCH Dining Þórsgata 1 probably isn’t a better outdoor view Saga Aurora LUNCH and DINNER MENU in the city than this place—and their Museum Reykjavik LOCAL and FOREIGN DISHES Year after year, regardless of how Scandinavian fare is good too. 1. Mandi Pizza ÁNANAUST HAPPY HOUR DAILY 15-18:00 many restaurants open and close, NÝ Hafnarstræti 9 Snaps remains a timeless classic. LE ND HOLTSGATA U M C GATA Ý Be it lunch, date-night dinner, lazy SELJAVEGUR RA RG Mandi Pizza is the answer to the weekend brunches or a boisterous Drinking ATA question: what can I eat if I’ve had Christmas work party, Snaps is the FRAMNESVEGUR BANKASTRÆTI 7A - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL. 562 3232 Mandi shawarma six days in a row, perfect venue for a boatload of 12. Prikið ÍGUR VESTURGATA and I want something different? Try memories. Steady standbys include BÁRUGATA ARST RÁNARGATA the kebab pizza, and make sure to the deeply savoury onion soup (with Bankastræti 12 HOLTSG. ÖLDUGATA cover it in sauce. And don't worry— a union of its own we suspect), GATA RABORG RIMANNASTÍGUR THE Ð Ý they also got their famous hummus the house-made fries with crispy Prikið is the bar version of the “I’m ST D BRÆ on stock so you can pick some up to rosemary that begs to be a meal on going to bed early tonight vs. me at MARARG. TÚNGATA ÆGISGATA quench your post-pizza health kick. its own, and a textbook creme brulee 3 a.m.” meme. At 22:00 you’ll have a HÁ topped with an envious snap. bunch of regulars relaxing at the bar VALLAGATA S WAY ÓLVALLAGATA to plan your journey 2. Chikin sipping brews, but arrive at 3:00 and TÚNGATA it’s Project X. Their outdoor smoking ÁS 7. Hlemmur Mathöll VALLAGATA Ingólfsstræti 2 area should be applauded too. Hang Hlemmur out long enough and you’ll be sure This ain’t your mama's KFC. No, to buddy up and find an afterparty. E HÓLAVALLAG. Chikin—Reykjavík’s first dedicated Once a bus station and now a bustling SÓLVALLAGATA hot chicken and bao joint— food hall—we love a repurposed 13. Kaffibarinn manages to be at once both totally space. Hlemmur Mathöll is a classic sophisticated foodie cuisine and in the Reykjavík dining scene, with Bergstaðastræti 1 REYNIMELUR HRINGBRAUT URGATA also food that’ll definitely fill the everything from Vietnamese street Ð

VÍ SU hole in your soul you usually quench food to delicious gelato to old While many Reykjavík bars comeÐ IMELUR Strætó with a spicy Twister. So grab some school Italian pizza present. Yum. and go and redecorate and rename F LJÓSVALLAGATA The o!cial Icelandic chicken with pickled daikon, shiitake and put on bells and whistles, Hólavalla- public transport app mushrooms, miso mayo and lots of 8. Dragon Dim Sum Kaffibarinn has stayed the course garður other delicacies. for almost three decades—because Cemetary Bergstaðastræti 4 it’s just a really good, reliable place. ESPIMELUR 3. Hornið It plays host to Reykjavík’s artistic B For those of us longing for dim sum intellectuals, creative talents, Hafnarstræti 15 in Reykjavík, cravings have often and, well, downtown characters G FURUMELUR had to be satisfied with daydreams and consistently puts on a show. National BIRKIMELUR library Appropriately named “The Corner” of visits past to dim sum houses of Basically, you’ll never have a boring from its position on the street, this Chinatowns abroad. But then Dragon night at KB. It’s no ordinary watering Reykjavík institution is one of the Dim Sum arrived with their fare, which hole. National museum oldest dining establishments in is the perfect marriage between the city. Opened in 1979, the family Icelandic ingredients and labouring 14. Gaukurinn business has been serving fantastic of Asian dim sum passion. Don't miss Italian fare in a remarkably unique their bao or shao mai, and don't Tryggvagata 22 H ÐURGATA SU atmosphere. It is truly a stand-alone worry, their carrot vegan dumplings University restaurant in town and hands down are also sublime. With dim lights, leather sofas, of Iceland one of the best. and gender-neutral bathrooms, 9. Lamb Street Food Gaukurinn is the preferred hangout 4. Kaffi Laugalækur for the unorthodox Reykvíkingar, Grandagarður 7 so if you’re looking for like-minded Laugarnesvegur 74a peeps, here you go. The venue hosts STURLUAGATA SÆMUNDARGATA I Pure Icelandic lamb with a middle everything from metal to drag Nordic House Culture Center Laugavegur 60A, 101 Reykjavík For many a young parent, the cafe eastern twist—that’s what you’ll get extravaganzas, so you neverFÁLKAGATA really 1 2 himalayanspiceiceland.com stop at the end of a long stroll is at this juicy local eatery where pure know what you’re gonna get on any the proverbial pot of gold. Kaffi kebab is served up with no processed given night. That said, you know it’ll

Lækur is especially popular with meat. For all you vegans though, be something you can only get at establishmentsARAGATA in Reykjavík, The C new parents, with a special kids’ never fear, the fresh made salads Gaukurinn. Icelandic Bar isODDAGATA the only one that is corner for crawlers and drawers. and hummus are equally wowing. This also a restaurant. Go there at night The generously topped chicken ain’t your regular kebab spot. 15. Veður and maybe you'll meet an elf or Björk Wine bar and pesto ‘litla gula hænan’ and the or something—that's all people know ‘shawaramabake’ are our top lunch 10. Laundromat Klapparstígur 33 about Iceland anyway. & food picks. Also, if you're keto, don't miss 'em, Austurstræti 9 This charming, low-key, hole-in-the- 17. Mál og Menning wall serves up some great cocktails 5. Sandholt Have you ever wanted to have lunch and a dedicated crowd that has Laugavegur 18b and do your laundry in a public place? grabbed the heart of the Grapevine, Laugavegur 36 You’re in luck. The Laundromat Cafe even though we are a magazine and Wait, a new bar/music venue? Yup! on Austurstræti is open (again) for not humans. If you feel fine relaxing And you thought the pandemic had Well-known for its sourdough bread, business. Whether you want brunch, and chatting, it’s still a nice and destroyed all culture in this town. Sandholt has consistently delivered a sandwich, or a burger, they have sophisticated bar, but they've also But never fear—Bókabúðir Máls og great baked goods since its a quality selection of food made to got an edge. Sometimes they play Menningar is here. There's live music inception. The laminated pastries are order. Their brunch ain't nothing to punk music. \m/ most nights, from DJs to jazz, and hands down the best in Iceland; try scoff at either, during the day, the legendary Bókin the buttery croissants or seasonal 16. Íslenski Barinn is operating from the basement. Danish pastries, locally known as 11. Nauthóll Seriously—we anticipate this place VÍNSTÚKAN “vinarbrauð” with rhubarb and Ingólfsstræti 1a will be a game-changer in the local raspberries, or the classic, vanilla Nauthólsvegur 106 cultural scene. Takk fyrir. custard. Of the many nation-themed drinking E HÓLMASLÓ

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NAUTHÓLSVEGUR 23. Stefánsbúð/p3 25. Húrra Reykjavík HLÍ Crammed most nights with rockers, Way more than your average design Ð ÁLFTAMÝRI GO metalheads, and tourists looking store, Nielsen is filled to the brim LaugavegurÐ 7 Hverfisgata 18A Shopping SAFAM for a place to mumble AC/DC songs with knick-knacks from all over, fromESKIHLÍ SÓLHEIMAR SKÓGARHLÍ BARMAHLÍ BÚSTA Ý into their beer, Dillon boasts a wide gorgeous diaries to cosy towels and Stefánsbúð showcasesÐ local This minimalist streetwear/ RI 20. Íslenzka Húðflúrstofan REYKJAHLÍ Ð selection of over 100 whiskies and all the candles you could desire. designers and second-hand high- athleisure store servesMIKLABRAUT up a mixed Ð MÁVAHLÍ hosts some of Iceland’s best hard Ingólfsstræti 3 Stop by, grab somethingAVEGUR for a gift,Ð fashion finds (hello 1990’s Gucci!) selection of classic items and trendy Ð STIGAHLÍ LJÓSHEIMAR ÞORRAGATA rock bands on the weekends. and don't forget a little something as well as accessories from quirky cuts. They were massively hyped Ð Ð DRÁPUHLÍ This classic shop caters to all for yourself. international brands. Fun and zany, when they opened years ago and GNO Ð SKEIFAN styles, with a roster of artists that you don’t know what you’re going have stayed hyped because they Ð 19. Petersen svítan ARVOGUR serve up everything from realism to find but youBLÖNDUHLÍ know it’ll be exciting. know what they GRÆNAHLÍare doing and are 22. Nordic Wasabi STAKKAHLÍ Austurstræti 12 to new-school and more, all done Ð damn good at it. Ð beautifully. We’d particularly Skólavörðustígur 40 FLUGVALLARVEGUR 24. Geisladiskabúð Valda MIKLABRAUT FELLSMÚLI The sun is finally out, which means recommend the hand-poked pieces Reykjavík GRENSÁSVEGUR Domestic it’s time for your annual pilgrimage by Habba (@habbanerotattoo). Not You thought just because we're in Laugavegur 64 to Petersen svítan. Never been? Well, only are they gorgeously ornate in Iceland that doesn't mean we don't HAMRAHLÍ Airport Ð Terminal Kringlan make sure to bring your sunglasses that straight-out-of-800-AD-way, have fresh, locally-grown wasabi? Valda is by far the most obscure shop Ð Shopping HÖRGSHLÍÐ EINARSNES Mall F HÁAHLÍ Party Every Night. Cocktails! Ð

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Nauthólsvík Beach The Reykjavík Grapevine 18 Music Issue 07— 2021 lighthouse,” he explains. From there, the journey con- The song in question—“Aton”— tinues into the world of the stilled opens the album with a rumbling, sea. “‘Refraction’, which is next, tribal beat that almost feels made is the bending of the light inside for a modern dance piece. It’s a piece the glass, a serenic pause of space. that buries deep into the primitive Then ‘Beacon’, the last song, is the part of your soul—a beautiful il- tower and the guidance,” María lustration of the divinity of fight or Huld concludes. flight. “When we got home, we saw that the music was like a journey. ‘Aton’ is quite aggressive and has a The return to a safe raw feeling of danger,” María Huld harbour says. The album is truly an affecting one. “It’s like a storm. Aton—aid to It’s not easy listening, filled at all navigation,” Vignir adds. times with a sense of longing and unrelenting solitude. It’s the music of a rugged lighthouse keeper—one who has retreated from society in unfaltering service to safety. And for Amiina, it was both a celebration of the lighthouse as a symbol and also a tribute to the institution as a lost art form and branch of science. “It was fascinating to go through the [history of the] different sig- nals, how the projecting of the light has changed from being just fire into the single cones of glass. Also, Amiina in front of the band's dream studio how through time, the rotation and mechanism of the signal has evolved,” María Huld explains. “And especially in Iceland, how impor- To The tant these places were and are for navigating.” “The only points of reference to Li!hthouse a safe harbour,” Vignir concludes. Amiina’s beacon shines bri!ht with their new EP ‘Pharolo!y’ Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick gpv.is/music Share this + Archives Album get light out there even though no one is looking. It might actually be Check out ‘Pharology’ on all saving someone,” founding Amiina platforms and pick up the LP on member María Huld Markan Sig- amiina.bandcamp.com fúsdóttir explains. “Someone close to us came up with the metaphor Pharology: the scientific study of that artists are our own kind of Taste the lighthouses. lighthouses. We pour out [our art] and just hope that someone is lis- It’s a rather archaic term, for as ra- tening.” dar and other navigation tools took She smiles. “It’s maybe not as over the guidance of ships, those dramatic as saving souls.” best of Iceland who specialised in the use and up- keep of lighthouses became few- er and fewer. Nowadays, the term Musical aids to ‘pharologist’ is used mainly by afi- navigation cionados fascinated by the niche buildings—many of which stand The direct origins of ‘Pharology’, empty or repurposed. though, come from a commission Quartet Amiina can be counted Amiina received in 2019 for a sound among their ranks. Enamoured of installation at the Nakkehoved ICELANDIC GOURMET FEAST the historical buildings' utilitarian lighthouse in Denmark. Inspired by uses and romanticism, the quartet the pitches created by the rotation Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic is back with the new EP ‘Pharology’, of the cone at the top of the light- spirit Brennívín an expansive, escapist effort that house, the group made a harmonic Followed by 7 delicious tapas walks the line between experimen- series that changed over each me- tal, ambient, subversive neo-clas- andering level of the building. This • Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce sical and prelude to series eventually • Icelandic Arctic Charr with peppers-salsa the impossible—an coalesced into the EP that’s as varied “Artists are our new EP. • Lobster tails baked in garlic as the ocean by own kind of Along with fall- • Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster sauce which it was writ- ing back in love ten. lighthouses. with the remote • Icelandic lamb with beer-butterscotch sauce romanticism of We pour out • Minke Whale with cranberry & malt sauce Saving souls lighthouses, the [our art] and Danish installa- And for dessert ‘Pharology’ is ac- just hope that tion also found the t ua l ly A m iina’s group fascinated • White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion coulis second light- someone is with its compatri- h o u s e -i n s p i r e d ots in guidance, effort, following listening.” morse code. In fact, 2013’s ‘The Light- ‘Pharology’ begins house Project’, which saw the band with a beat that is the actual morse 8.990 kr. journey across Iceland to perform code for Nakkehoved. at various lighthouses and other “Morse codes were a creative unusual locales. spark for us,” María Huld contin- “Travelling in Iceland, you see ues. Bandmate Guðmundur Vignir these lighthouses in barren places Karlsson nods. “We played around Book your table and that’s in a sense very poetic and and found a morse code that works TAPASBARINN grabbing as an image. But the pur- as a rhythmic ostinato through pose of the lighthouse is always to the song, which is the name of the Vesturgata 3B | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 19 Music Issue 07— 2021 Event Picks

Einar, his contribution somewhat stifled by his studded gimp mask. But there is one thing that Hatari is—beyond any debate—and that’s a stunning live act. Expect searing distorted vocals, harsh industrial MUSIC Iceland’s most promising techno soundscapes NEWS theremin musician, Hekla and lashings of BDSM- Morpholith JóiPé & Króli Magnúsdóttir, is touring themed fun. Attendance around Iceland with guitar player Sin- at Hatari’s dystopian July 9th - 20:00 - Gaukurinn - Free! July 10th - 19:30 - Bæjarbíó - 4,990 ISK dri Freyr Steinsson, playing repertoire disco is not optional. of the classical composer Magnús Hatari Disobeyers will be noted A release show? We’re there. Mor- B.O.B.A… And congrats, now you’ve Blöndal. Now, this is interesting for a by Hatari and in the style pholith—who won Wacken Metal got that song stuck in your head. few reasons: Hekla is considered one July 2nd - 21:00 - Gamla Bíó - 4,900 ISK of Liam Neeson in the Battle Iceland before the pandem- Get it out of your head by seeing of Iceland’s most unique composers, film ‘Taken’ they will look ic hit and prevented them from the boys live as they travel to creating dark neo classical music on “Hatari is a lament that Called Hate’. “Hatari is for you—they will find travellin" to Germany for the bi" Hafnarfjörður, popularly known as her theremin, but Magnús Blöndal was is screamed into the a relentless scam,” his you—and they will spank festival—is finally releasin" their the hometown of our beloved editor Iceland’s first avant garde musicians wind,” asserts lead bandmate Klemens you. And you really don’t lon"-awaited debut ‘Núll Dimen- Valur Grettisson. Their shows have of his time. Sindri and Hekla also used singer Matthías in their chimes in. “Mmmf mmmf want that. Although, on sions.’ If you like stoner-doom, only been evolving over the years, to be in a successful underground recent film ‘A Song mmmf” offers drummer second thought… JP this is the best concert in the city and we can't wait to see what they band called Bárujárn and played surfer happenin" on July 9th. HJC do next. HJC rock with the odd addition of theremin. The concerts will be all around Iceland, July 2nd—August 6th everywhere from Gallery Kaktus in Akureyri to The Freezer Culture Centre in Rif (Snæfellsnes). They will end 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Wednesday July 21st in Reykjavík at the newly reopened Karaoke Party! bookshop/bar, Bókabúð Máls og Men- Concerts & Ni#htlife 20:00 Gaukurinn Cell7 ningar. VG 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Wednesday July 14th Cyber 20:00 Kex Hostel Events listed are all live performances and Lun#A Festival Omnipus DJs. Venues are listed by day. For complete Various Times, Seyðis#örður 20:00 Gaukurinn Unnur Sara Múlinn Jazzclub: Gaukur & listin"s and detailed information on venues 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Sölvi Quartet visit "rapevine.is/happenin". Mersier & Laminar Flow 20:00 Harpa Send your listin"s to: listin"s@"rapevine.is. 20:00 Gaukurinn Thursday July 22nd Thursday July 15th JFDR Lun#A Festival 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Friday July 2nd Jack & Joey: Rock'n'Roll Acoustic Set Various Times, Seyðis#örður Guðmundur Pétursson 20:00 Gaukurinn Dúplum Dúó 21:00 Nordic House Eurovision star, Daði Freyr, just might Hatari DJ Retronaut 21:00 Nordic House Dopemine Machine just make it into the history books as 21:00 Gamla Bíó 20:00 Kex Hostel Æð, Blóðmör & Hemúllinn 20:00 Gaukurinn the most unlucky fellow out there. Devine Defilement & Holdris 20:00 Gaukurinn Friðrik Dór Daði sang his way into the world's 21:00 Gaukurinn Thursday July 8th Þór Freyson 19:30 Bæjarbíó hearts with his Eurovision song, Think Nico Moreaux 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar About Things, but ironically, it never 21:00 Men"i Norma & Horrible Youth Pub Quiz Friday July 23rd got to the stage of Eurovision because Ni#htvision 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Kex Hostel of the pandemic. The year after, he 12:00 Harpa Elín Hall Lenny Kravitz Tribute Show re-entered the competition with his Friday Jazz 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Friday July 16th 20:00 Gaukurinn disco-fueled 10 Years only to be stuck 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Summer At Kex Concert Friday Jazz in his Rotterdam hotel room on the 20:00 Kex Hostel Lun#A Festival 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar big night after one of his bandmates Saturday July 3rd Various Times, Seyðis#örður tested positive for COVID-19—view- Friday July 9th Volcanova, Port & Monkey Coup Saturday July 24th ers got a pre-recorded performance Ásta 20:00 Gaukurinn instead. Now it turns out the washing 15:00 Nordic House Morpholith Una Stef & The SP74 90s DJ Bin#o machine in Daði’s Berlin apartment Party Karaoke! 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar 20:00 Gaukurinn went ballistic while he wasn’t playing 20:00 Gaukurinn Friday Jazz at Eurovision, leaking down three Frin#e Festival Openin# Party 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Saturday July 17th Sunday July 25th floors and reinvigorating an old fungus 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar DJ Óli Dóri that is now pestering the neighbours. Tómas Guðni E##ertsson: Or#an Show 20:00 Kex Hostel MYRKFÆLNI World Tour Snorri Ásmundsson The musician and his wife/bandmate 12:00 Hall"rímskirkja 15:00 Post-húsið 15:00 Nordic House Árný Fjóla Ásmundsdóttir are looking Saturday July 10th Lun#A Festival Matthildur for a lawyer to deal with the 35.000 Sunday July 4th Various Times, Seyðis#örður 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar euro bill they’ve received for the JóiPé & Króli KEX Port Erna damages. So be kind next time you see Eden Sekulovic & Þóra Kristín Gun- 19:30 Bæjarbíó 12:00 Kex Hostel 16:00 Harpa them around. VG narsdóttir Reykjavík Goth Ni#ht & Coven Art Dra# Show! 16:00 Harpa Market 20:00 Gaukurinn Monday July 26th Björn Thoroddsen 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Halldór Bjarki Arnarsson: Sunday July 18th Steypustöðin The Goldber# Variations by JS Bach 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Monday July 5th 14:00 Harpa Lun#A Festival Concert: GusGus, Bachward & Forwards: Solo Cello Vök, Inspector Spacetime, Vill, DJ Tuesday July 27th Valbor# Ólafsdóttir 16:00 Harpa Yamaho, Sakana & Unnur Birna 19:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar DJ FKNHNDSM 21:00 Seyðis#örður Karaoke Party! 20:00 Kex Hostel Elín Hall 20:00 Gaukurinn Tuesday July 6th 15:00 Nordic House Raven Sunday July 11th Jóna G. Kolbrúnardóttir & 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Dopamine Machine Elena Postumi: Schubert, Debussy 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Salóme Katrín & Grie# Wednesday July 28th Happy news! The brilliant hip hop artist, Cauda Collective 15:00 Nordic House 12:00 Harpa Cell7, has released a new single from 21:00 Men"i Sin#er/Son#writer Ni#ht Huldumaður & Víbrasjón Múlinn Jazzclub: her upcoming album. Cell7 has not Karaoke Party! 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar María Ma#núsdóttir Quartet only graced the cover of The Reykjavík 20:00 Gaukurinn 20:00 Harpa Grapevine, she was also nominated to Monday July 12th Tuesday July 20th the Nordic Council Prize in 2019 for her Wednesday July 7th Thursday July 29th album, Is Anybody Listening? Her new- Reynir Haukson MYRKFÆLNI World Tour Part II est single, It’s Complicated, is—like Múlinn Jazzclub: GDRN & Ma#nús 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar 20:00 Online! Sycamore Tree always—brilliant world-class hip hop Jóhann Karaoke Party! 21:00 Nordic House fitting for the halls of Versailles and we 20:00 Harpa Tuesday July 13th 20:00 Gaukurinn can only count down the days until the Sycamore Tree The Sin#letons For listin#s from July 29th onwards, new album will be out. So, all hail the 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar Ra#nheiður Gröndal 20:00 Bókabúðir Máls o" Mennin"ar check out happenin#.#rapevine.is! queen of Hip Hop! VG i8 Gallery Tryggvagata 16 101 Reykjavík [email protected]

t: +354 551 3666 www.i8.is Art “So, in this huge house, there are 220 apartments, retail housing, a gas station and now an art gallery.”

Not pictured: Cars.

abandoned gas station. When I came in, I have to admit I thought, The Crazy Idea Of ‘What have we got ourselves into?’” Olga laughs. That said, the vision came together once they removed Openin! An Art the film from the windows, re- vealing large, clear panes of glass. 10 June - 31 July 2021 “Then I had the confidence that Gallery In A Gas this would be really nice,” she con- RAGNA RÓBERTSDÓTTIR cludes.

Station An Icelandic cité Meet Y Gallery, the new kid on the Hamrabor! The gas station, Sigurður contin- block ues, used to be quite a social hub 13.05.–03.10.2021 in the area, and now it’s once again Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photos: Art Bicnick & Leifur Wilberg serving its purpose in a different Sirra Sigrún Sigurðardóttir form. ues. “So we thought, ‘How could we “This space actually always Ásmundur Sveinsson Info do this?’ And then we came up with reminded me so much of France this crazy idea of opening a gallery and in the process of making the As If to Check out Y Gallery at Hamraborg in a gas station.” gallery, we figured out that the ar- 12 or at ygallery.is. It’s open on chitect who designed Hamraborg, Wednesdays and Saturdays from A longtime dream in fact, studied in France in the Demonstrate 14:00 to 18:00. 60s. Then he returned to Iceland Sigurður had actually long had and made this building in 1972,” an Eclipse An abandoned Olís gas station in his eye on the Hamraborg space, he Sigurður explains. “At the time, a Hamraborg parking garage has explains. French architects were calling all found unexpected new life as Y “I thought it was such an amaz- of their houses ‘cité’, which is city Gallery. Created by collaborators ing place and I visited it from time in French, and that’s what ‘borg’ Sigurður Atli Sigurðsson and Olga to time just because of the feel of means in Icelandic. It’s a symbol Lilja Ólafsdóttir, the space seeks to it, when it was a gas station,” he for merging all the needs of the bring art straight to the public—or smiles. “I told Olga that I wasn’t modern human being into one to their cars. interested in opening a gallery un- house. So in this huge house, there less we could get this gas station in are 220 apartments, retail hous- Hamraborg. And then we figured ing, a gas station and now an art Something different out it had just closed after 50 years. gallery.” The idea began when Olga and It was a complete coincidence.” He smiles. “And that works re- Sigurður were collaborating on a They subsequently contacted ally well with our idea of Y Gal- Christmas exhibition at Ásmun- Olís, who thought the idea was fan- lery—to bring art to the public,” darsalur. tastic. But the renovations, both he says. “And what better way than “We wanted to do something explain, were extreme. “It was an to have it in your house?” different—something that would benefit the art scene but also the public,” Sigurður explains. “And also give artists a different way of getting their work out there.” Olga nods. “At the Christmas exhibition, we felt that the need was definitely there for some- thing like this,” she adds. “People are interested in art but perhaps the availability or accessibility of it has been a problem. People may feel like it’s too frightening to go into galleries. It might seem like a closed universe.” The two then set out to make something more all-encompassing and open. “We weren’t interested in starting a conventional gal- Ásmundarsafn Open daily lery. Galleries are great [at] what S i g t ú n i 10 h 0 0 – 17 h 0 0 they do, as are museums, but we 1 0 5 Reykjavík artmuseum.is thought there was space for some- +354 411 6430 #reykjavikartmuseum thing different,” Sigurður contin- Sigurður & Olga The Reykjavík Grapevine 21 Our Picks Issue 07— 2021

Katrín Friðjóns- accompanying dóttir, Finnbogi the exhibit, with Pétursson, Hanna line-drawing, Dís Whitehead, “The child gains a Haraldur Jóns- sword that it can son, Páll Haukur hurt with, charge and Sirra Sigrún with, defend itself Sigurðardóttir. But with, talk to, listen why line-drawing? to and forsake all Well, pencils are context. A hot rod. Hildur Bjarnadóttir HOW A PLACE COMES TO BE Pabbi í ve!!num usually the first Cord. Sometimes tool children are the drawing is Until August 7th - tradition in a new July 10th-August photography and Until July exhibition featur- given to create done for God, a Hverfisgallerí provocative light, 1st - Midpunkt sound. Full of both 20th - Gletta ing Rúnar Örn Stance 1 linear with and they friend, nobody, filled with colour calmness and (Borgarfjörður Jóhönnu Marinós- narratives therefore hold a mother, one’s self, Weaver Hildur and emotion LEMOS + LEHMANN, tension, it’ll be Eystri) son, Geirþrúður magical space needs, power, Bjarnadóttir cre- that presents the artist duo of an exploration of Einarsdóttir, Auður Until Au!ust 7th - Ber! Contemporary within the hearts screams, obses- ates, as she calls Hildur’s life as a Pat Lemos and perception and This is one for Ómarsdóttir, Gylfi of everyone—es- sions, frenzy, them, “woven homesteader Lukas Lehmann the ever-changing your Easterners. Freeland Sigurðs- This exhibition tures a veritable pecially visual that inexplicable paintings.” These in Þúfugarður. are journeying nature of art. HJC The beautiful son. Plan a road exploring the supergroup of artists. As Kristín search (for noth- densely-woven Explore rhythm, to Iceland, with venue Gletta in trip and don’t miss methodology of artists, includ- Ómarsdóttir ing maybe).” Don’t canvases show- mimetic art and an immersive Borgar$örður it. HJC line-drawing fea- ing Áslaug Íris wrote in the text miss it. HJC case the age-old the world. HJC experience of Eystri will host an

July 2nd-August 6th

the packaging of countless foods on our own relatively abstract times. tional contemporary art. as well as the banknotes in Iceland, But don't worry: it's an upli%ing and • Opens on June 10th, 2021 Art Listin!s among other famous items. Come colourful exhibition, so no need to • Runs until October 17th, 2021 see her progression as an artist. bring the tissues. • Runs until January 30th, 2022 • Runs until August 31st, 2021 I8 Events are listed by venue. For complete Behind the Scenes — Natural Dyes: Ragna Róbertsdóttir listin!s and detailed information on venues, A Modern Perspective NORDIC HOUSE No information is currently available Where do textile colours come Nature in Transition: on this particular exhibition, but visit !rapevine.is/happenin!. from? Nowadays many are chemi- Shi$ing Identities if it's anything like Ragna's previ- Send your listin!s to: listin!s@!rapevine.is cal, but this project shows the wide The North is changing. Man-made ous work, you can bet it'll be full of range of colours one can produce climate change is pushing our strong forms and made of natural nautrally in the Iceland. climates into new territory and materials found freely in the Icelan- Opening • Runs until September 12th, 2021 things are moving more rapidly than dic landscape. If it's not... well... we EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM we could have ever imagined. This tried. FLÆÐI GALLERY Permanent Exhibition REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ' special exhibition dissects the na- • Runs until July 31st, 2021 Harry Darkins The museum contains close to KJARVALSSTAÐIR ture of that instability in the light of A sparsely-populated fishing town 300 artworks including a beautiful Eternal Recurrence the four Nordic countries and their MUTT GALLERY perched on the sea and facing the garden with 26 bronze casts of the Jóhannes S. Kjarval—a%er whom history and future. It’s an important 21 Artists dramatic cli#s of the West$ords, artist’s sculptures. the museum is named—is put in topic—and one that we cannot af- It's 2021, baby, which means 21 Skagaströnd faces the full force of dialogue with a number of promi- ford to ignore. artists are showcasing works at Iceland's ever-changing weather. REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM nent contemporary Iceland artists • Runs until August 1st, 2021 Mutt to open the summer season. Here, artist Harry Darkins shares Settlement Exhibition including Ólafur Elíasson, Ragnar Rockscramblers Many Grapevine favourites including a collection of figurative works As Viking ruins meet digital technol- Kjartansson, Steina and Eggert Rockscramblers is inspired by the Freyja Eilíf and Almar Atlason will be inspired by his time in the town. ogy, this exhibition provides insight Pétursson. Now that's a lineup. illustrated poetry of poet Mats present. • Opens on July 15th, 2021 into Reykjavík's farms at the time of • Runs until September 19th, 2021 Söderlund and illustrator Kathrina • Runs until August 8th, 2021 • Runs until July 18th, 2021 the first settlers. Skarðsá. On view are the illustrations Ongoing HAFNARBORG and poetry in their original forms HVERFISGALLERÍ REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Discotheque and one can also interact with a Abyss NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND The Silent But Noble Art Arnfinnur Amazeen‘s exhibition pres- mysterious recording of Söderlund Hildur Bjarnadóttir presents her Of The North Sigurhans Vignir (1894-1975) le% ents new works that draw inspira- himself, a cave where young visitors third solo show at Hverfisgallerí. 'Of the North' (2001) is created from the museum an archive of around tion from the ambiguous imagery of can have a cozy time and (!!!) a new Exact information hasn't yet been Steina Vasulka’s archive of video 40,000 photographs. Many of these Icelandic night club culture in the climbing wall. released, but Hildur is known for recordings, mostly of Icelandic document everyday Icelandic seventies and eighties. While the ti- • Runs until September 5th, 2021 works that investigate issues of nature—either the surface of society just a%er the creation of the tle is a reference to revelry, what we belonging, ecology, place and co- the earth, or microscopic views: Republic of Iceland in 1944—a chris- have here is nonetheless a rather REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ' HAFNARHÚS habitation with animals and plants microbes, as well as crashing waves tening, labourers at work, people dreary discotheque. There is no glitz Iðavöllur: Icelandic Art in the 21st in the south of Iceland. and melting ice, landslips and an skating, the occupation of Iceland and glamour to be found here, only Century • Runs until August 21st, 2021 array of natural phenomena relating during World War II by British troops, the subtle indication of something In 2021, Reykjavík Art Museum to the formation and destruction of a beauty pageant, a birthday party, a that has already happened. focuses on the microenvironment, OBJECT OF DESIRE our planet. wigmaker… and so on. • Runs until August 15th, 2021 with an aim of displaying the growth Abyss • Runs until January 9th, 2022 • Runs until September 19th, 2021 of the Icelandic art scene. The whole A collaboration between Singapore HELLO UNIVERSE The Border Between Nature And The REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ' Hafnarhús becomes the setting and Iceland, ‘Object of Desire’ will It's 2021 and we're over Earth. Enter Scene ÁSMUNDARSAFN for a powerful exhibition of new travel between both countries with Finnur Jónsson. The avant-garde art “In my art, I explore the limits of pho- Sirra Sigrún Sigurðardóttir & works by young artists who may an exploration of “things”( i.e. the of Finnur—the first Icelandic artist tography by fragmentarily excluding Ásmundur Sveinsson: As If To Demon- be considered to be in the lead for desire, distribution, and reproduc- to address outer space in his works, the concept of time for scenes that strate An Eclipse their generation, and assumptions tion of “things”). Anti-consumerists in the first half of the 20th cen- testify to the human encounter with Sirra’s work is cosmic in nature, can also be made about the larger rejoice. tury—presents the artist's unfet- life. The photographic scenes are o%en connected to speculation context of Icelandic and interna- • Runs until August 26th, 2021 tered interpretation of the marvels set in scenographies where I have about our position within the inner of the celestial bodies, which are worked to show perspectives that workings of nature, physics and the theme of this exhibition. Always make visible the fictional environ- the forces that drive the world. Her MUSEUM OF DESIGN GARÐATORG 1 remember: We are but matter expe- ment and illusion within the sceno- works o%en display our position as AND APPLIED ART 210 GARÐABÆR riencing itself on a pale blue dot. graphic image.” – Peter Stridsberg individuals, our significance and • Runs until January 9th, 2022 • Runs until August 8th, 2021 insignificance. As an existentialist Death Is Elsewhere paper, who ruminated on our own Ragnar Kjartansson’s opus “Death is REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM obscurity, we can't agree more. Elsewhere” made its debut in 2019 Fish & Folk • Runs until October 17th, 2021 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Name a better duo than fish and Design for sculptor Ásmundur in New York City. Now, it’s back in Iceland. You can’t. So come learn Sveinsson EXHIBITIONS the artists hometown for a sum- about the history of Icelandic fisher- Five product designers take over mer long residency at the National ies from row boats to monstrous the museum shop at Ásmundarsafn KRISTÍN ÞORKELSDÓTTIR Gallery. Featuring ya fav musician trawlers. with objects inspired by Ásmundur twins GYÐA, Kristín Anna, and (ran- Melckmeyt 1659 Sveinsson's world and heritage. UNTIL 30.12. domly) those two brothers from Melckmeyt was a Dutch merchant • Runs until October 17th, 2021

the National, the seven-channel ship that crashed near Flatey Island BEHIND THE SCENES video installation sees a single song in 1659. Explore the wreck here. HIÐ ÍSLENSKA BÓKMENNTAFÉLAG played without end in a continuous with two images of di#erent origins Abstract Reality NATURAL DYES: A loop. Filmed around the summer sol- against each other. The ground floor of the Hotel Saga stice in southern Iceland, “Death Is will play host to a series of abstract MODERN PERSPECTIVE Elsewhere” is a referential work that MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART art works by Valtýr Pétursson. He turns romantic clichés on their head Kristín Þorkelsdóttir used abstraction to express sudden with irony, nihilism and absurdity to You've probably seen Kristín Þorkels- cultural, social and political shi%s UNTIL 12.09. spare dóttir's work before though you in Iceland, so his pieces are the OPEN TUE–SUN 12–17 • Runs until September 19th, 2021 might not know it. She's designed perfect thing to stare at and reflect WWW.HONNUNARSAFN.IS Instagram Facebook honnunarsafn Film

“I don't think the Icelandic film industry has done something like this before.”

THE SWEETEST CENTURY GDRN, fresh out of dealing with the catastrophic eruption of Katla on stage, my whole point is to get the feelings that I'm experiencing Since opening our bakery in 1920, we have within the song to the audience,” constantly pushed the boundaries of tradi- Out Of The she tells us. “And this is exactly tional Icelandic baking methods. Find us in what you're doing as an actress. the heart of Reykjavík serving piping hot, You're just trying to get your emo- fresh pastries made from scratch, every Ashes tions through the camera to the morning from seven-thirty AM. audience, so it has kind of the same GDRN catches the actin! bu! on Netflix’s ‘Katla’ tone to it. So that was not some- Not a sweet tooth? That’s OK. Come by for a Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photo: John Pearson thing new for me and I got it really savory brunch or taste one of our homemade quickly.” That said, performing for a soli- sodas or craft beers. You might have enjoyed ‘Trapped’ because I was so stressed about it. I tary camera rather than a cheering as a great addition to Iceland’s Nor- really love doing things that do not crowd presented its own challeng- dic noir catalogue, but now the na- come easy for me. I want to have a es. tion is ready to spread into other little bit of the unknown, this feel- "That was the difference be- genres, with Baltasar Kormákur’s ing of 'I don't know if I'm going to tween a live show and acting on Katla taking the leap into science pull this off'. I love doing things camera,” she says. “No live show is fiction. We spoke with Guðrún Ýr that are challenging." the same, because you always have Eyfjörð Jóhannesdóttir—better Another big part of the draw for a different audience, setting and known by her stage name, GDRN— her was the freshness of Katla’s mood. It's a conversation between who stars in the film as Gríma, a concept in an Icelandic context. you and the live audience, whereas young woman living in the ashes of "I don't think the Icelandic the camera is not giving anything a devastating eruption of the volca- film industry has done something back. So it's just up to you to keep no Katla. It turns out this death-de- like this before,” she says. “This the conversation going." fying and inexplicable feat is only is something new. It has a young the beginning for a sleepy Icelandic woman in the leading part, which village—more thrills await them, is unfortunately not that common. Send her scripts! like it or not. But it's also a sci-fi thriller and After the experience of Katla, that's not something I've seen in Guðrún feels she has caught the Icelandic movies, either. So it just acting bug. The thrill of a challenge felt new and exciting and that was "I definitely hope I will do more When Guðrún was approached what really made me think this is acting, because this was such a fun by Baltasar’s casting director and something that I really want to do." experience,” she says. “I felt that I asked if she wanted to audition got to see a bigger picture of what for the part she embraced the op- art can be. It was so rewarding and portunity, precisely because of the Camera as audience it gave me so much, I actually felt challenge it presented. As someone who’s performed on like it helped me a lot with the mu- "It was a surprise, but it was stage since she was five-years old, sic, too. It gave me a bigger perspec- something that I found that I re- Guðrún felt she was able to apply tive of arts in general. So I really ally wanted to do, so I was really a lot of her skills to acting as well. hope I'll get to do more acting." stressed,” she tells us. “I don't re- “When I got in front of the cam- member much about the audition eras, I just realised that when I'm Katla debuted on Netflix on June 16th.

EST. 1920

Laugavegur 36, 101 Reykjavík www.sandholt.is A still from 'Katla' LIFE IN PICTURES Vaccination Nation Words & Photos: John Pearson

Iceland’s COVID-19 inocu- lation program recently hit top gear and Laugar- dalshöll—one of Reykja- vík’s biggest indoor sports halls—has been turned into a mass vaccination centre.

The smooth running of the Laugardalshöll opera- tion is the responsibility of head nurse Anna Ólafs- dóttir. We spent time with Anna and her team as they took care of some 10,000 Reykjavík residents over the course of a day.

Anna’s friendly chairside manner

Pfizer's finest into the syringe, a quick jab and you're done Reykjavík folk roll in and roll out The Reykjavík Grapevine 24 Music Issue 07— 2021

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi

He's moving btw, his face doesn't just look like that

is from a small harbour, down at The Soulful Gardener the sea. I recorded it on a beauti- ful summer day, you could hear the EinarIndra experiments with earthly sounds stones coming up on the shore. I think that one is my favourite field Words: Alina Maurer Photos: Art Bicnick recording,” Einar recalls.

Album fortable with and changed them 30 times over the course of two A man who can do it all Stream EinarIndra’s new album years,” Einar sighs. The constant EinarIndra does it all—singer, ‘Disintegrate’ on Spotify, Soundcloud modifications and development of songwriter and field-recorder. His and all other streaming platforms. the tracks explain the final name next project, after the release of of the album, “I was changing up a ‘Disintegrate’ in late May, is cre- EinarIndra is one who likes to take lot of my process, so the title of the ating a music video for the song his time, fearlessly modifying his album came out of that—like old “Watching things grow.” electronic creations until he is en- patterns being disintegrated.” As a hobby-gardener himself, The best of Icelandic produce tirely satisfied. After three previ- Einar invisions his own inspira- with a nod to Japan and South ous studio- albums, Einar’s first tions for the track to be compiled in full-length offering, ‘Disintegrate,’ Using nature's tunes a music video. “I planted soybeans America. Modern Icelandic has emerged and is ready to carry Einar creates his own sounds, un- in my greenhouse and I have a the listener away into a mystic, derlining his music in a peculiar camera on them. It has been going flavours, share plates and award melancholic and soulful world of and enchanting way. “With a lap- for more than a week, like a time experimental electronic music, un- top, you have the whole world of lapse. I'm thinking of combining winning cocktails. derlined by melodious vocals. sound [at] your fingertips. This re- that with videos of my daughter cord is mainly based on the sounds into a music video,” he says and I have created,” he explains, tak- smiles. It’s clear that out of the A perfectionist at heart ing a sip of his steaming coffee. ten tracks on the album“Watching ‘Disintegrate’ is a vast composi- “Sometimes I want a sound and it things grow” is a special one to SOCIALIZE tion of Einar’s personal field-re- takes me three days to achieve it. I Einar. “I love gardening and watch- cordings, deep lyrics and dreamy think the more you put into it, the ing things grow. It was a [fitting] WITH THE electronic beats fused with instru- more precious it becomes to you, title, both that and watching my mental piano sounds. The name of even if it doesn’t sound better to daughter grow up. [It’s] this aspect LOCALS the album makes complete sense, someone else.” of sitting by and watching some- as everything was initially broken On the track “Watching things thing grow instead of interfering down before Einar merged the grow,” pebbles can be heard with it,” he explains carefully. loose pieces back together. washing up on the shore of his We might not all have the pa- Most of Einar’s music is inter- home peninsula Tjörnes, close to tience to watch soybeans grow, but twined and inspired by his person- Húsavík, lending it some kind of EinarIndra’s beats inspire a sense al experiences. He took a mystic vibe. “It's of presence, infecting us with his brief pause from music in one of my fa- ability to slow down. 2018, after the birth of his “I think the vourite places. youngest daughter, and The recording travelled through Europe, more you which heavily influenced put into it, the start of his album. “We went to Tener- the more ife, Portugal and spent a precious it month in Lisbon. My mix- ing and mastering engi- becomes to neer that I've been work- ing with, called me up and you, even if said that we should do it doesn't something. He inspired me to go for it,” Einar re- sound better members and adds, “I was to someone actually thinking about Our kitchen is open naming the record 'While else.” 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. you were sleeping', be- 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. cause all the songs came [together] when my daughter was sleeping.” Sushi Social After three years of creating, Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík he finally finished the album this Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is year. “Some tracks I wasn't com- EinarIndra and a dear friend The Reykjavík Grapevine 25 Issue 07— 2021

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explains. The clearest example is that Icelanders demanded the crown to return Iceland’s most important historical cultural val- ues, our old scripts. We have re- claimed many of our important scripts, but not all of them. And there are a lot of cultural values still stored in museums in old empire’s around the world, far away from their true owners.

A lot of discipline Of course, because Icelanders can be very egocentric, we have to ask: The how is the world reacting to the book? “Surprisingly well, even the pub- lishers are surprised by the inter- est,” Egill answers modestly. He Butterfly admits he did not expect anyone to be interested in this tiny little island and its big story. What’s more, the New York Times and Wall Street Journal have written about Effect In the book and it’s currently the best seller in Scandinavian his- tory on Amazon. Asked if he plans on following The North up on his success, Egill is reticent. E!ill Bjarnason on how Iceland chan!ed the world But he admits that he has an idea and, who knows, perhaps some- Words: Valur Grettisson Photo: Art Bicnick one will like it. Until then, he says Iceland's not in the bunker anymore that he’s going to keep on doing what he enjoys: writing for maga- It’s not that Icelanders are full on phasis on the big Icelandic novel,” cess of writing,” he explains. Egill colonies in the 18th century, when zines, news outlets and teaching megalomaniacs (we are though, Egill explains. “I had worked for says that he ended up writing Icelanders reshaped their dignity at the University of Iceland in be- in general), but our history and years in my father’s bookstore about the subjects that carried and their self-image in the fight tween. culture have affected the west- and I felt like there was some- the most weight and, although against overwhelming weight of “We’ll see how this goes. It ern world in myriad ways that we thing missing in Icelandic litera- Icelanders are aware of many of the Danish crown to the point of takes a lot of discipline to write,” could make a strong case that Ice- ture, something about Icelandic these connections that the book Danish even slowly overtaking the he says, seemingly unaware of his land shaped the world on a deep history,” he says. He adds quickly explains brilliantly, Egill goes to Icelandic language. own contribution to Iceland’s im- level. In some ways, Iceland is the that of course there are many ex- new depths that will be complete- “In some ways, Icelandic free- pact on the world. butterfly effect of the North. cellent books about Icelandic sa- ly new for many Icelandic readers. dom fighting has become a road Now we can even prove this— gas, many are even outstanding, For example, the effects of Icelan- map for many smaller countries well, to a point. Egill Bjarnason but everyone in Iceland can agree dic nationalism on other former that used to be colonies,” Egill has made quite a name for him- that they are not very accessible. self as a journalist, writing for Or fun. Or anything that would the likes of The New York Times, Al catch the interest of non-Icelan- Jazeera, Associated Press and Lone- dic readers. ly Planet. He also teaches media “Also, people other than Ice- and political science part-time at landers are not that interested in the University of Iceland. But what our old politics, and let’s just face matters most for us Icelanders— it, Jón Sigurðsson (Iceland’s in- forever burdened by our delusions dependence hero) is probably the of grandeur—is that he has writ- dullest freedom fighter you can ten the book called ‘How Iceland find,” Egill says, making the au- Changed The World’, published by thor of this article laugh out loud. ICELANDIC GASTROPUB Penguin Random House and re- There are not many that are so leased in the US and Europe, in blunt about our national heroes. which he navigates the various ef- fects of Icelandic culture on the world at large since the year 1100. 1100 years of history in a small book HAPPIEST Iceland’s effect on “But I still wanted to tell the story of Iceland and just kind of slam HAPPY HOUR Tolkien the first 1100 years of history on “I wrote up three chapters and the table,” he adds. And that’s IN REYKJAVÍK sent some cold emails to literary just what he did. In his 255-page agents in the US,” Egill explains book, Egill explains how an Ice- when asked how on earth he end- landic volcano triggered climate ed up with the biggest publisher change in the late 18th century in the world. Of course, when that possibly contributed to the reading the book, it comes as no French revolution and, therefore, surprise that it was picked up by the modern republic. And then the publisher—there was actually of course there is the story of an auction for the right to publish how Iceland played a big role in it—it’s witty, accessible and very US space exploration. Egill also enjoyable. reminds Icelanders of the inter- In it, Egill covers everything esting bond between this small from an Icelandic (originally Nor- island and Israel, which have wegian) Viking, Leifur ‘the lucky’ soured over the past decades. Ice- Eiríksson, discovering North land’s ambassador at the UN was America and losing it again; and the one leading the committee the story about how a young Ice- that submitted the bill for a new landic woman, Arndís Þorbjar- Israeli state. Icelanders found a nardóttir, influenced J.R.R Tolk- deep connection to this old nation ien by telling him about Icelandic of Israel for many reasons. But, folktales (Icelanders see very this is a history almost forgotten clearly when reading or watching in Iceland today. ‘The Lord Of The Rings’); to the invaluable lessons other nations can take from Iceland’s gender Nationalism, the good equality reforms. type How did Egill choose his subjects? “Well, a lot ended up not find- 790 1.490 Dull freedom fighters ing its way into the book and I “In Iceland, there is a lot of em- learned a great deal about the pro- SÆTA SVÍNIÐ / Hafnarstræti 1-3 / Tel. 555 2900 / saetasvinid.is The Reykjavík Grapevine 27 Lifestyle Issue 07— 2021

FANCIES is where we talk to Reykjavík's most fashion-forward figures about style

Words: Hannah Jane Cohen Photo: Art Bicnick Fjallkonan is a new lively restaurant & pub in the heart Skaði of Reykjavík offering a selection of Icelandic and international dishes from local ingredients. Casual and cosy atmosphere yet still fun and festive. Þórðardóttir Stop by for snacks & drinks, lunch or dinner. Skaði Þórðardóttir (44) is an artist.

Wearing: • Sweater from Aftur Icelandic • Legwarmers from Pole Sport • Shoes from Kjólar & Konfekt Delicacies • Unknown tights • Eyeshadows from NYX

Describe your style in 5 words: Punk. Extravagant. Different. Per- sonal. DIY.

Favourite stores in Reykjavík: I guess I have to say Aftur first be- cause I’m wearing something from them! I also really loved getting stuff at Kvartýra №49 (RIP), but unfortunately they closed. Right now, though, I really love shopping at Pole Sport, where I do aerial gymnastics, pole and hoop. They have all these leg warmers and I really love those because there’s such a confidence that comes from wearing leg warmers. You just feel like a sexy dancer! Other- wise, I like checking out Rokk & Rómantík, Kjólar & Konfekt, Kóla- portið and the Red Cross.

Favourite piece: Definitely my Ash- ley Williams dress. It’s made of pink leopard print velvet and just looks so good on me. I also love tights and catsuits for my stage looks. I have so many that I’ve bought in a variety of sex shops. You have to have con- fidence to wear them, which I like. This sweater is also super nostalgic for me because it has a metal vibe to it, full of skull and fantasy imagery. I love it because I used to be a metal- head—or, well, I’m still a metalhead! But this sweater goes well with red Must try dishes and I always love to wear some red eyeshadow and lipstick. Red is one LAMB & FLATBREAD of my favourite colours. Slow cooked lamb, traditional Icelandic flatbread from the Westfjords, carrot purée, pickled red onions, horseradish sauce Something I would never wear: I don’t ARCTIC CHARR & BLINI like wearing brown clothes. It’s just Lighly cured arctic charr, chickpea blini, horseradish sauce, not really me, even though I do have roe, crispy lentils, yuzu-elderflower dressing some brownish stuff. I’ve also never ICELANDIC PLATTER been comfortable wearing suits. It’s > Puffin, crowberry gel probably something to do with being > Minke whale, malt glaze a trans woman—suits are so con- > Lamb tartar, chive mayo nected with the male gender that THE LAMB BURGER it always feels wrong to me to wear Bacon, mushroom & date duxelle, pickled red onions, pickled them. I even once had a designer cucumber, rucola, smoked cheese, fries that wanted to make a tailor-made SKYR ETON MESS CHEESECAKE suit for me to model and I declined. White chocolate “Skyr” mousse, meringue, raspberries, But, you know, I think I would look raspberry sauce pretty good in a suit now! I think I definitely need to find one now and wear it just because I said here I never would. Lusting after: I really love to be Happy Hour 15-17 surprised when I’m shopping. I usually have vague ideas of every day what I want, but it’s always nice when you find something new FJALLKONAN WELCOMES YOU! and unexpected and say ‘“Wow! I look really good in this.” fjallkonan.rvk fjallkonan Hafnarstræti 1–3 > Tel. +354 555 0950 > fjallkona.is Food NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND WELCOME TO THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

The National Museum of Iceland Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík

Opening Hours www.nationalmuseum.is Daily 10–17 +354 530 2200 Closed on @icelandnationalmuseum Mondays 16/9–30/4 @thjodminjasafn

Héðinn And The Li"htness Of That Tomato Reykjavík's latest food tech incubator is build around community Words: Shruthi Basappa Photos: Hallur Karlsson

One might be forgiven for not hav- fortunes by investing in its ship above the kitchen and bar creating ing expectations beyond the or- building and steel machinery islands of focus. dinary when passing the non-de- works. This used to be their flag- script spine connecting downtown ship production facility designed Reykjavik and Grandi. But walking by Ar. Sigurður Pjetursson in 1941. Kitchen & Bar into Héðinn Kitchen & Bar, Reykja- Few structures in Reykjavik re- The menu steers away from the set vík’s newest—and likely largest— main that preserve memories of its menu format, a welcome respite restaurant instantly transports industrial past, let alone embrace in a city saturated with the con- you to a montage of big city life and celebrate it. Héðinsreitur has cept. The highlight of the meal is echoing the industrial past of Lon- served as everything from office a tomato number (2290 ISK) with don or New York spaces to a gym to being the Loft- tomatoes semi dried and fresh, The vestibule allows the right kastalinn theatre and the final presented as a wreath and dotted amount of repose to take in the resting place of Páll Óskar’s spar- with carefully placed croutons and dramatic high ceilings, and chain kly unicorn float. splotches of stracciatella, all local, mesh islands of swank and gloss. Planning efforts in recent times finally crowned by a good glug of Take a moment and scan the land- have made room for mixed use de- spicy, cold tomato broth. I thor- scape for that ideal dining spot— velopment that I expect will serve oughly enjoyed this dish and it cer- the factory windows spanning the restaurant well. Hotel guests tainly captures the spirit of head three floors, the dusky teal and are expected to enjoy full breakfast chef Sigurjón Braga Geirsson’s blue-grey mural or the slinky bar services while local residents (300 hope for the seasonal and local. perhaps? There is plenty to choose apartments are underway in and Seafood is likely what the kitch- from, 140 seats to be precise. around the area) can enjoy a lunch en wants to showcase best as we Laugavegi 28 menu distinct from its dinner of- were treated to a beautifully pre- ferings (they’re a proofread away sented platter of smoked haddock 537 99 00 Design, meet history from being guest-ready, however). (2990 ISK) with green apples and [email protected] It turns out Héðinn recalls Vé- Architects Gláma Kím and interi- pickled onions in a moat of white sumac.is lsmiðjan Héðinn, a homegrown ors by I am Studio, London, have wine velouté. A textbook halibut icon among industrial compa- brought factory-cool forward with (4990 ISK) with a last minute finish nies that accelerated its fishing the chain mesh curtains floating on the grill was only overshadowed The Reykjavík Grapevine 29 Food Issue 07— 2021

by the charred broccoli and rib- I didn’t quite fall in love with the bons of cabbage served alongside. sticky slush sorbet-on-the-side A zesty Carricante from Scalunera drink making a sweet cocktail made for easy drinking alongside. achingly sweeter. A refractometer Many dishes seem to favour the wouldn’t be out of place for the bar. richness of brown butter, ubiqui- tous in the menu, a gesture I ques- tion, but am confident will find ac- Ambition and promise ceptance when showcased as single The kitchen practically boasts of RÖNTGEN courses. the roster of the national chef’s Leaning into the history of the team, with Viggó Vigfússon and space, cocktails are named after Elías Guðmundsson steering the Icelandic movies, like Stella í Or- ship. Between them they bring the lofi, and the intriguing Djöflaeyjan combined experience of having (Devil’s Island). Upon the waiter’s founded and run everything from recommendation, I tried the As- Gló, to Omnom, Skúbb, Blackbox trópía (2690 ISK), but, unlike the and Brauð & Co. It will be interest- movie’s role-playing protagonist, ing to see how the many chefs and

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Happy hour / 4–7pm Beer / Wine / Cocktails

“The kitchen practically boasts of the roster of the national chef’s team”

founder experiences inform the menu. I look forward to trying the vegan fare—he grilled king oyster mushrooms beckon for a revisit. I’ve been to many restaurants and recognise the skin prickling sensation of new, when everything is awash with promise and excite- ment. There is a different air about fledgling restaurants; they are practically hope served on a platter. THE If the bar and kitchen at Héðinn can REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE continue to deliver the lightness of OF REYKJ A ST VÍ that tomato dish combined with BE K their attentive service, Reykjavík can look forward to a welcome ad- dition to the dining experience.

Info: Hédinn Kitchen & Bar B ES AR T B Visit the kitchen at Seljavegur 2. NEWCOMER For more information visit hedinnrestaurant.is Travel

Befriendin! Belu!a Whales And Puffins

Behind the scenes of the Sea Life Trust Sanctuary in Vestmannaeyjar

Words: Brittnee Kiner & Alina Maurer Photos: Christine Wehrmeier

Stepping through the door of the However, the whales have yet to Mike Rowe, we’re coming for you. the pool. You heard that right—we sanctuary, we expected to be wel- fully move into the lagoon after re- were IN the water. Settling down next comed with some sort of ceremonial siding in Iceland for two years. Last Plunging with bubble- to the belugas, ready to assist with orchestra. Instead, we were greeted summer, they were moved into the headed belugas practising blood sampling. Eager for by two melon-headed, curious crea- open-water sanctuary but Little White attention, they swam right up to us, tures, also known as the “Canaries of turned out to be slightly less adven- The strikingly giant mammals clock in wiggling their bulbous melonheads. Travel distance the Sea.” Fortunately, we still got our turous than anticipated. While Little at four meters long and 900 kilograms, To be clear, we’re not head-shaming from Reykjavík: orchestra—chirping, whistling and Gray echo-located herself around the and consume about 24 kilograms of them—full of fatty acids, the melons 150 km grunting—the beluga whales excit- 32,000 square meter lagoon, Little fish each day. To keep them mentally help the whales echolocate and com- edly embraced us, snatching their wa- White showed hesitation. SEA LIFE stimulated, both whales have six daily municate with various sounds. We Car provided by: ter toys, ready for action. Meeting the Trust decided to renovate the sanctu- training sessions to prepare them for couldn’t help but feel starstruck by the gocarrental.is gaze of our photographers, they knew ary bay this year. By sectioning off a their eventual move to Klettsvík and size and vibrancy of the whales, mak- their cue. It was showtime. part of the sanctuary, they’re hoping possible medical emergencies; both ing us question if this was all a dream Ferry provided by: to develop a middle-ground for Little caretakers emphasize that positive re- we had yet to wake up from. herjolfur.is The stars of the sea White until she becomes more com- inforcement is key. Frankly, it almost Little White and Little Grey are fortable with the new environment. seemed like training a dog—just in a patiently preparing for their move to The female belugas, Little Grey and pool and quadrupled in size! Klettsvík Bay. We’re eagerly rooting Little White, were aquatic perform- Part-time puffin rescuers Our excitement had peaked. We for their success and for SEA LIFE ers in a past life. They were captured suited up and pulled on waders. Un- Trust’s approach eventually becom- from the Arctic waters of Russia at Belugas aren’t the only ones finding sure of what was next, the team called ing a model for thousands of others two or three years old. From Rus- sanctuary in Iceland. The SEA LIFE us down onto a platform lowered into currently in captivity. sia, they were sold to an aquarium in Trust team also cares for puffins— Shanghai to provide entertainment some are brought in as pufflings and for visitors. may become resident puffins; unfor- Eventually, the aquarium was ac- tunately, not all can be released back quired by another company with less to the wild. Some struggle to fly or of a taste for keeping whales in captiv- aren’t able to produce the oils to wa- ity and the pair was flown across the terproof their feathers—one is even globe from Changfeng Ocean World to afraid of water. the SEA LIFE Trust marine sanctuary Right away, the team put us to Support the Grapevine! View this QR code in your off the south coast of Iceland, in Vest- work. Feeling like we were on an epi- phone camera to visit mannaeyjar. The goal for the 14-year- sode of “Dirty Jobs,” Jessica, the beluga our tour booking site old whales is to move into an open- curator, initiated us into the cleaning water sanctuary at Klettsvík Bay next process of the puffin’s artificial bur- summer. SEA LIFE Trust, a UK-based rows—handing over a brush and hose, marine conservation charity, hopes we scrubbed and sprayed away. Wet the project can become a model for and sprinkled with Puffin poop, we the rehoming of almost 3,000 other quickly realized it’s a lot of work car- cetaceans currently in captivity. ing for these little seabirds! Move over Hungry hungry water birds

Hugnry hungry interns Hungry hungry water hippos The Reykjavík Grapevine 31 HORROR!SCOPES winner in your field. Greetings, Evgeniya Kanaeva. You’re the Issue 07— 2021 G.O.A.T. of rhythmic gymnasts Sagittarius and exude true Leo energy. WELL, YOU ASKED Sagittarius love a made-for-TV Great Moments... moment like that of the US ice hockey team at the 1980 Winter Virgo Olympics, where a ragtag group Great Opportunities of freedom-loving college kids It was the 1996 Women’s Artistic beat the unbeatable Soviets in a Words: H!nn!h J!ne Cohen, !m!teur synchronised diver Gymnastics Team finals. The tense battle for Cold War glory. US team needed one perfect Who could forget the triumphant You might not know this, but again for our underdog. Just vault to beat Russia and Roma- skip of captain Mike Eruzione af- the official Grapevine astrology 50 metres before the finish, all nia. It was up to Kerri Strug. ter that iconic fourth goal? Do you committee also moonlights as his competitors crashed and All she needed was a perfect believe in miracles? freelance Olympics consultants. fell and a dumbfounded Steven landing to grab gold, but her Look—the cosmos don’t pay much, first vault ended in tragedy— cruised across the finish line, Capricorn but do you know what does? Lista- winning gold. You gotta give the falling awkward onto her ankle cles on obscure athletic websites. guy props. He had a strategy, and snapping two ligaments. Oversleeping after a Netflix Just try and doxx us for doping. played to his strengths and, in Nonetheless, Kerri limped back binge and a lost coat didn’t an act of god, finished first. The to the starting line, snapped stop 2018 gold medal slopestyle Jimmy Carter of Salt Lake City. herself together and performed snowboarder Red Gerard, and Aries a perfect second vault. Seconds it sure wouldn’t stop you. after, face scrunched in pain, Marrying Famous she hopped off the mat trium- An Aries doesn’t let anything Gemini stop them from achieving their phantly. Seriously, only a Virgo People goals, even a lack of talent. would literally risk their health Aquarius Ryan Lochte, after what you Which other sign would exploit to avoid conflict with their ter- Words: Hannah Jane Cohen pulled in Rio 2016, no one will a loophole in the system to get rifying coach Béla Károlyi. The guy who beat Eddie the ever believe you again. But that’s to the Olympics only to land Eagle was actually Finnish a plight of many a’Gemini. Get In real life, no one asks us for advice. Luck- 58th out of 58th place with a Matti Nykänen. While you may out of the pool and into therapy. ily, we work at a hip magazine too. pitiable 71 metre jump in the 110 not have the notoriety of oth- Libra metre ski jump event? Yes, Ari- ers, you continued to wow your es, you’re our astrological Eddie home country with a pop music How do I get a famous person to like A Libra would never be satisfied the Eagle. But who can actually career and also being sent to me? Cancer name another ski jumper? So with just one gold. A Simone prison for stabbing someone. who really won in the end? Biles you are. A living legend, No one knows how to follow-up Girl—I wish I knew. I’m currently in a The fastest sign in the world is we will watch your career with success like an Aquarius. fruitless battle to get Blind Channel, great interest. no doubt the fastest man in the the best Finnish Eurovision band since world Usain Bolt. Everyone loves Taurus Lordi, to acknowledge my existence via you and those who don’t just want to be you. Dab, Cancer, dab! Pisces a cavalcade of Instagram tags and mes- There’s only one sign that could Scorpio sages. So far it’s not working and my pull a move like that of Aus- You’re a local legend Pisces middle finger is rapidly going down. tralian speed skater Steven They made a movie about you a.k.a. the 2008 Icelandic Hand- Genuinely, I’m considering leaving the Bradbury. Picture this: In the Leo too, Scorpio, but you’re not ball team. You bring glory to dark side and becoming a Måneskin 2002 Winter Olympics, Steven, really the hero. Tonya Hard- your country every day you live. stan. Dark times, anon. Find an obscure, showy, theatri- ing, you Scorpio snake. (Note: through a series of ridiculous Also, your members are immor- But for real, obviously, it’s best if cal event. Become the best and Tonya’s actually a Scorpio, so mishaps, found himself in the talised at the Icelandic phallo- you’re already famous, as famous peo- then never retire until you’ve always watch Scorpios with an finals of the short track 1,000 logical museum. Legends. ple (with the notable exception of Matt metre event. There, luck struck become the oldest gold medal [Eddie the] eagle eye.) Damon) tend to only date other famous people. But if you’re not famous, the other best option is to be extremely rich. Famous people tend to thrive on yachts, so if you can pick up a few of them, that might get you in line. Fail- ing that, you could get extremely beau- tiful and then slide into their DMs. That said—considering you’ve reached out to a small, poor Icelandic magazine for advice, we’d say you’ve got as much chance of marrying a famous person as James Newman has of being invited back for Eurovision !"!!. Get back in the embers.

How do I pursue my wild dream of being an artist and living at the same time?

Wait, money and fulfilment? Slow down there, buckaroo. This’ll require a lot of luck, but perhaps diving into the colourful world of meme stocks might help. The margin call is inevitable so buy the dip and HOLD for your life. Note: This is not financial advice, we just love AMC stocks. They are actu- ally just our favourite movie theatre stocks and we’d never give financial CITY SHOT by Art Bicnick Confusing cube or Art? advice. We just love the stock.

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LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND

DON’T QUOTE ME ON THAT

One of 25 wonders of the world “I don't think the Icelandic film industry has done Blue Lagoon geothermal seawater is unlike any other water on the planet. Born deep underground, this natural marvel is rich in silica, algae, and something like this before. minerals—the elements that give the water its extraordinary powers. This is something new.” Discover the water. Experience the wonder.

Guðrún Ýr Eyfjörð Jóhannesdóttir—better known by her stage name, GDRN—on her work in the new Netflix series 'Katla'. P22

“Artists are our own kind of lighthouses. We pour out [our art] and just hope that someone is listening.” Lighthouse afficionados Amiina discuss their new release 'Pharology'—a mediation on the ancient structures. P18

“I wanted to tell the story of Iceland and just kind of slam the first 1100 years of history on the table,” bluelagoon.com Egill Bjarnason wrote bestseller 'How Ice- land Changed The World'. But how did it? P26 Glacier Walks, Kayaks, ATVs and Snowmobiles ALL IN ONE PLACE Book online or call our sales office from 9:00am - 4:00pm mountainguides.is • [email protected] • Tel: +354 587 9999