For women travellers in Asia

YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO 02 CONTENTS STAFF BOX 03 01

CONTENTS

3 WELCOME TO ZAFIGO.COM

5 20 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT KL

9 STAYING CONNECTED

10 IN CASE OF EMERGENCY

11 DO’S AND DON’TS

13 TIPS FOR WOMEN TRAVELLERS

17 GETTING AROUND KL

19 DON’T LEAVE KL WITHOUT VISITING...

21 ZAFIGO KL MAP: KEY LANDMARKS

23 7 UNDER-THE-RADAR KL ATTRACTIONS

25 10 MALAYSIAN FOOD YOU SHOULD NOT MISS

27 ON THE FOOD TRAIL

29 RETAIL THERAPY AT ITS BEST

31 BRING A PIECE OF KL HOME

33 TOP-TO-TOE PAMPERING

35 WINE AND DINE

37 24-HOUR KL

39 SCAMS TO AVOID

40 SPEAK MALAYSIAN LAH!

41 ZAFIGO TRAVEL CARDS

ON THE COVER Illustration by Xin Xin Lee xin2lee.tumblr.com, featuring the Sultan Abdul Samad Building. See pages 19-20 for this and KL’s other top attractions. STAFF BOX 02

For women travellers in Asia

FOUNDER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARINA MAHATHIR

STRATEGY & DEVELOPMENT JAMES CHONG

EDITOR VIVIAN CHONG

WRITERS ERNA MAHYUNI & VIVIAN CHONG

DIGITAL & CURATION MAGGIE DE SOUZA

GRAPHICS & DESIGN LEE XIN XIN

BOOKLET DESIGN TRIONA FOONG

FOR ENQUIRIES ON ADVERTISING AND PARTNERSHIPS [email protected]

FOR EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES [email protected]

We would love to know your travel tips and stories. Drop us an email at [email protected]

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©October 2015 03 ABOUT ZAFIGO

WELCOME TO Zafigo.com INTRO TO ZAFIGO 04

YOUR ONE-STOP ONLINE DESTINATION FOR WOMEN TRAVELLERS TO ASIA.

afigo is dedicated to the woman traveller, Z whether she is on the move for work, leisure, or to settle into a new home. We offer city guides, local insights, lifestyle ideas and tips to make travel safer, easier, better and more Marina Mahathir, interesting for women. Founder of Zafigo Zafigo covers a network of cities in Asia and When I was packing for a the Middle East. We started with Kuala Lumpur meeting in Pakistan some years as our base and have, in less than a year, ago, I faced a dilemma. What expanded to include is appropriate to wear in that Bangkok and New country? Google yielded very Delhi. Jakarta is next little information. The episode TRAVEL IS, on our list, with many made me realise that there is a AFTER ALL, more cities to come. gap of information for women In each destination, travellers. A VERY GENDERED we gather the best Travel is, after all, a very BUSINESS; FEMALE editors, writers and gendered business; female seasoned travellers travellers have very different TRAVELLERS HAVE who know their cities concerns from male travellers. VERY DIFFERENT like the back of their I realise that my friends rely CONCERNS hands, to give us on me for tips on the various the scoop on what places I’ve visited. Why not FROM MALE women should know share them with more women? TRAVELLERS. before they arrive In case you’re wondering, and how to make the Zafigo is a play on ‘Safe I most of their time Go’, the main concern of while there. women travellers everywhere. We produce original stories and city guides, Ultimately, Zafigo hopes to and curate the most engaging contents across become a global community of the Web to inspire conversations among women travellers sharing their women travellers. We want our readers to insights and supporting each connect to women around the world through other so that wherever we go, zafigo.com. we can look up a Zafigo friend. 05 KL QUICK FACTS

20 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT KL XIN2LEE.TUMBLR.COM ILLUSTRATION BY XIN XIN LEE XIN BY ILLUSTRATION EMERGENCY CONTACTS 06

KL IS AN UNAPOLOGETICALLY COLOURFUL HODGEPODGE OF RACES, CULTURE, LANGUAGES, AND FOOD WITHIN A FAST- PACED MODERN METROPOLITAN SETTING, LACED WITH A BUCOLIC SIDE OF LIFE. SWANKY, SHINY BUILDINGS FILL THE SKYLINE, SANDWICHING RUSTIC ENCLAVES AND HISTORICAL STREETS. THE NEW AND THE OLD COME TOGETHER IN A CAPTIVATING BALANCE OF EAST AND WEST, MAKING THIS CITY A WELCOMING HUB FOR PEOPLE THE WORLD OVER.

1. ‘Muddy confluence’ – not the can grasp at least basic English. most romantic a moniker, but that’s For an easy way to get your messages across, use our handy Zafigo Travel Cards. what Kuala Lumpur means in Malay, See pages 41-43 so named as the city sits right at the junction of the Klang and 5. As a former English colony, we Gombak rivers. inherited many formal systems from the British, including on the roads – cars are driven on the left. 2. Locals call 6. KL city centre refers to the areas their capital city surrounding the Petronas Twin Towers and nearby . The latter KL, an affectionate sits in the centre of what is known abbreviation that as the Golden Triangle, formed by the three main streets of Jalan visitors take to just Sultan Ismail, Jalan Raja Chulan and as easily. Jalan Imbi. This is where you’ll find a smorgasbord of high-end shopping malls, 5-star hotels, fine dining restaurants and some of the city’s best KL, along with the suburbs that its 3. street food stalls. In short, this is where borders touch within the neighbouring you want to be when visiting KL. state of (including the satellite city See pages 23-36 for tips on the city’s top of Petaling Jaya) form what is known shopping, dining and nightlife spots as the . Many also simply refer to the entire area as ‘greater 7. KL is connected by an increasingly KL’, or simply loop them all in when efficient network of public transport, speaking of KL. including taxi and private car services; public buses and free 4. Bahasa Malaysia, or Malay, is the shuttles; monorail, Light Rail Transit official language of Malaysia. English (LRT) and inter-city trains. In recent is widely spoken, taught at national years, the city centre has been schools (British English), and used made more pedestrian friendly, with across popular media. You won’t have covered walkways connecting core problems communicating in English at buildings. A bicycle lane was also establishments such as hotels, shopping introduced earlier this year. malls, cafes and Western-style Turn to pages 17-18 for our guide on restaurants. Elsewhere, most getting around KL 07 KL QUICK FACTS

8. Traffic congestion is part of life 11. As a Muslim country, halal in KL – but it’s far less notorious than food is easily available and prayer Bangkok or Jakarta – not only during rooms can be found at all shopping peak work hours but also on Fridays. malls, transportation hubs and Muslim men go to the mosques en most office buildings. masse for their Friday prayers, so lunch break on this day is two hours 12. Tipping is not expected, long (12pm-2pm) for them. When as most eateries impose a making an appointment on a Friday, 10% service charge for dining take this into consideration and also in. Malaysia has also recently factor in more time for travel. implemented a GST (Goods & Services Tax) of 6%.

13. Travellers may be eligible for 9. Shops, restaurants, the Tourist Refund Scheme (TRS) and claim refunds on GST paid on cafes and shopping goods that are purchased from malls generally open from an Approved Outlet – these are retailers who have been approved 10am till 10pm – that’s by the Royal Malaysian Customs 12 full hours to explore Department, and are required to and enjoy the city to display the TRS logo/signage at their shops. Find more information: your heart’s content http://gst.customs.gov.my/ each day. 14. The inside joke among locals is that Malaysia is subject to four seasons a year: Hot, wet, haze and 10. Where food is concerned, sales. It can be erratic but generally, however, this city never sleeps; KL is hot all year round but particularly 24-hour mamak (Indian Muslim) from February-June, wet several restaurants and kopitiam (coffee months in a year, and hazy around houses) are a ubiquitous feature August-October. There’s always a of the city. good sale on, with one of the biggest Find more 24-hour services in KL on being the 1Malaysia Year End Sale pages 37-38 from November-December. KL QUICK FACTS 08

15. It’s not a bad idea to keep a foldable umbrella handy, to shield from either the scorching sun (it’s Shopping malls not considered silly in this part 19. of the world) or torrential rain. are integral to the KL lifestyle, and more are sprouting 16. The local currency is Malaysian Ringgit, indicated as RM up. Locals go there for all their or MYR. Most places accept major essentials and indulgences: credit cards (a minimum charge may apply) and money changers are Dining, groceries, facials, spas, easy to find – there’s bound to be at bowling, archery, to catch a least one at every mall, to start with. The ones at movie, banking... so whatever are known to offer among the best you need, chances are, rates. Travellers’ cheques are not recommended as the exchange you’ll find it at a mall. rates can be quite dismal.

17. Besides banks, ATMs are often found at petrol stations and convenience stores, and most are 20. Locals find it endearing when compatible with MEPS, CIRRUS, foreigners attempt to use our PLUS and Western Union. lingo. Terima kasih (thur-ree-mah kah-seeh, meaning thank you) 18. If you’re planning to catch a is the first one you should learn. movie at the cineplexes, located Give the lah a go as well – just at the malls, go on Wednesdays add it to the end of a sentence. If as tickets are offered at a reduced that happens to be in English, you price. Book ahead online or queue would have spoken an example of up early for your tickets to beat Manglish, or Malaysian English the crowd. See page 40 for more examples

Find more fun and useful facts on KL at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/City Guide) IMAGES COURTESY OF TOURISM MALAYSIA TOURISM OF COURTESY IMAGES 09 CONNECTIVITY

STAYING CONNECTED KL OFFERS EASY AND AFFORDABLE MOBILE AND INTERNET SERVICES.

WIFI ACCESS INTERNATIONAL SIM CARDS ROAMING

You can almost take free WiFi for Malaysia has three main telcos Prepaid SIM cards granted in KL, with most cafes, fast – Maxis, DiGi and Celcom – are easy to procure food outlets, coffee chains, and and all have signed roaming (besides telco shops restaurants providing what locals agreements that pretty much and kiosks at the consider an essential service. Just guarantee that international malls, convenience look for the familiar Wifi symbol that’s roaming services on your stores like 7-11 sell typically displayed at the entrance, mobile network should work them too) and at or ask the staff. Some shopping malls in KL. To get the best deals, the airport, you can also provide complementary WiFi, as you may need to choose the also buy SIM packs do service outlets such as hair salons carrier manually, based on your that are designed and even reflexology centres. service provider. for travellers.

Read more at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Tips & Tech) EMERGENCY 10

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY WHO TO CALL FOR HELP.

POLICE AND EMERGENCY MEDICAL ASSISTANCE NUMBERS Should you require hospitalisation, The emergency number in Malaysia note that while public hospitals are is 999 (112 on mobile phones). There open to foreigners, there is usually a are also several personal safety apps long waiting time. You will likely need that you can install on your phone: a referral so visit a GP first instead MYDISTRESS Alert the Malaysian of heading straight to the hospital. police department (Selangor Private hospitals are usually more contingent) with accommodating but they might require just a click. proof of funds so it would be wise to Download: AppStore, Google ensure you’re properly insured. Play Store For milder issues, KL has plenty of Watch Over Me Sends out emergency walk-in clinics and 24-hour clinics are alerts when you fail to check in safely also easy to find. Have at least RM100 at a preset location, and activates on hand to cover consultation fees an alarm just by shaking your phone. and medicine. Download: AppStore, Google If you need medicines, you can Play Store find pharmacies at all shopping Malaysia Hotlines Find listings of malls. Basic over-the-counter contact details for 12 categories medicines such as aspirin, of needs, including the police, paracetamol and cough syrup can emergency, embassies, local also be purchased at supermarkets authorities and even public transport. and small sundry shops. Download: AppStore, Google Play Store

Read more at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/Health & Emergencies) 11 TIPS

DO’S AND DON’TS DO’S AND DONT’S 12

A QUICK GUIDE TO CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS AND BUSINESS ETIQUETTE.

In Malaysia, the mix of cultures and like them. “More chilli”, “No egg”, a predominantly Muslim population “Less bean sprouts”, “Kosong (no have resulted in a melting pot of sugar)”...ask and you shall receive. influences that are reflected in local lifestyle practices and socially- DON’T acceptable norms. KL may be as assume that all meetings and modern as most major cities in functions will start on time. The the world, but it exists within the infamous ‘Malaysian time’ does come context of a society that is generally into play often, though not all the considered conservative. Here are time. That doesn’t mean you should some basic pointers to help you find aim to be late, however, but bring your way around our cultural maze. some reading materials to keep you company in case you need to wait. DO remove your shoes at the door DO when visiting someone’s home. share a table when dining out. It is Most mosques and some temples common practice at local eateries will require you to do the same. As such as the mamak restaurants an easy guide, if you see many pairs and Chinese kopitiams during peak of shoes at the entrance, you should hours. If you see an empty spot at a leave yours there too. table, just ask the person next to it if it’s available. DON’T display affections publicly. While DON’T it is acceptable for couples to hold bring pork to a Muslim home or an hands and people to give each occasion where there are Muslim other quick friendly hugs, that’s guests present, or eat non-halal about as far as it goes where PDA food in an area that’s frequented is concerned. by many Muslims. At the shopping malls, you will notice that most food DO courts only serve halal fare. If pork is customise your food if you wish on the menu, those stalls would be when dining at street stalls and parked in a separate area. Likewise, hawker centres. Malaysians love our supermarkets have a separate food and we know exactly how we section for non-halal food.

Read more at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/Customs & Culture) 13 TIPS

TIPS FOR WOMEN TRAVELLERS

Greetings How to dress It is generally accepted to shake When going out and about in KL, it is hands, even with members of the fine to be casually dressed – shorts, opposite sex, particularly in a business sleeveless tops and skirts are all setting. However, some of the more acceptable attire. religious Muslim men may prefer to refrain from doing so. If you’re unsure, Few places and occasions impose offer a smile and greeting, and let him dress codes; at mosques, they provide take the lead. robes for you to cover up or you may want to bring a shawl to cover up with. English is widely spoken, but it Chinese and Indian temples don’t have doesn’t hurt to learn a few words in the same requirements. Bahasa Malaysia. These are useful phrases to learn: In any case, common sense should Apa khabar (aa-per car-bar): always prevail, especially if you’re How are you? travelling alone. Flashing too much Khabar baik (car-bar ba-ihk): I am fine skin may invite unwanted attention, Selamat pagi/petang/malam (sir-la- and this applies anywhere in the world. mutt parh-ghee/perh-tung/ Obviously, going braless in public is mah-lum): Good morning/afternoon/ never a good idea in Malaysia. evening or night See more on page 40 In formal settings, it is best to dress conservatively – unless you’re in an industry such as fashion, media, advertising or entertainment, where VOICES OF ZAFIGO dress codes are a little more relaxed. Women in KL share Even then, you might find yourself their best tips needing to deal with government “In place of business suits, you can officials so keep a smart suit on standby. also opt to wear traditional Malaysian outfits to meetings and formal functions. Regular Western-style work wear is Try the Nyonya kebaya, a traditional appropriate for most meetings. It is also Peranakan outfit for ladies that comes acceptable for women to wear pants. in many attractive colours, fabric and embellishments.” If you have a meeting or function at Maisie Sim, Senior Advertising a government department or office, Account Executive do remember this: Government Find more tips from KL women offices may bar entry to those who at www.zafigo.com (Voices of Zafigo) are dressed inappropriately (shorts, sandals, sleeveless attire and skirts above the knee are all no-no’s. TIPS FOR WOMEN 14

CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS AND OTHER THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR. 15 TIPS

VOICES OF ZAFIGO Women in KL share their best tips “Do not walk alone at night, especially in secluded areas. Even in car parks, beware of your surroundings. At shopping malls, you can request for the security guard to walk you to your car.” Lee Ren Ying, Architecture & Interior Designer Find more tips from KL women at www.zafigo.com (Voices of Zafigo) TIPS FOR WOMEN 16

Personal safety KL is generally a safe city but snatch thefts do happen. When walking on the VOICES OF ZAFIGO streets, hold on bag on the side that Women in KL faces away from oncoming traffic. share their best tips “The KL city centre is extremely Watch out for pickpockets in crowded easy to move around by foot. Wear areas, always clutch your bag close to comfortable shoes and light, airy you and make sure that it is zipped. clothing. Don’t forget your sun block and your raincoat or umbrella When dining out, don’t place your bag before heading out!” on the next chair or behind you. It’s Sarah Sofian, Copywriter best to hold your bag in your lap. Find more tips from KL women at www.zafigo.com (Voices of Zafigo) If in a car, keep your bag on the floor in front of you or under the seat, as snatch thieves are known to break windows to steal bags left on seats.

At night spots, don’t leave your drinks Out and about unattended. If you have to leave If your day’s itinerary includes visiting the table to use the washroom, for sacred sites, note that most will require example, leave your glass behind but you to leave your shoes at the door. It get a fresh drink on your way back. is thus most practical to don footwear that are easy to take off and put on. Taking public transport In general, buses, trains and taxis are KL’s weather is typically hot, wet, or all safe modes of transport although both. It is always a good idea to keep a you should avoid being alone at a bus light portable umbrella or a disposable or taxi stand late at night. The KTM raincoat in your bag. Packets of tissue Komuter inter-city trains have women- and wet wipes are also handy items to only carriages. have at all times.

In a taxi, the driver’s information should Avoid walking along back lanes and be displayed on the front passenger dark alleyways, even during the day. seat and if it does not match the actual Always opt for the most well-lit path, driver, give an excuse and ask to be or a walkway where there are other dropped off. people – even if that means taking a See pages 17-18 for more information on longer route. public transport in KL

Read our KL City Guide at zafigo.com for more tips and advice 17 PUBLIC TRANSPORT

GETTING 03

AROUND KL TAXIS

01 02

FROM THE WALKING Taxi stands are scattered around AIRPORT the city; you will always find one in front of a shopping mall or near a hotel. To call a cab, see the list of taxi companies listed under ‘Call A Taxi’. A 50% surcharge applies after midnight. Another way to hail a ride in KL is by using these mobile apps:

MyTeksi Currently the most popular taxi booking app in Malaysia, they also have an on- demand chauffeur service called GrabCar that uses private vehicles. Download: AppStore, Google Play Store

EzCab With less options than MyTeksi, it is understandably less popular as well. But that can be a good thing – if you can’t get a taxi From KL International Airport (KLIA) While KL has become more on the other apps, try this. and low-cost terminal KLIA2, take a pedestrian-friendly in recent Download: Google Play Store taxi (buy your coupons before leaving years, it is still more geared the arrival hall) or the high-speed for vehicular traffic. Street Uber For many local women, KLIA Ekspres (kliaekspres.com) pavements can be narrow so Uber is the preferred choice as it’s that will take you right to KL Sentral practice caution. Where there perceived to be safer and more station in just 28-33 minutes. For a are overhead bridges, they comfortable. UberX is particularly cheaper and more scenic route, opt are usually safer options than in demand as the charges are less for an , which cost about crossing the street – as long as than those of reguvlar taxis. a third the price of an KLIA Ekspres it’s not late at night and you’re Download: AppStore, Google ticket but takes longer to reach the city. not alone. Play Store TIPS FOR WOMEN 18

KL PROVIDES ITS VISITORS WITH MANY PUBLIC TRANSPORT OPTIONS. 04 05

TRAINS BUSES

CALL A TAXI Public Cab 03-6259 2020

Sunlight 1300-800-222

Comfort Radio Taxi 03-8024 2727 KL city centre is served by the There are several companies KL Monorail, a short electric train providing bus services in Supercab service whereas the LRT (Light Rail the Klang Valley; the most 03-2095 3399 Transit) extends further out, covering commonly seen on the roads more places in the Klang Valley, these days are MyRapid Mesra Cab including suburban areas and the buses, which are linked to the 03-4043 0659 neighbouring city of Petaling Jaya. LRT service. Service is reliable and frequent, with Within the city centre, you can UpTown Ace rides starting from RM1.60. For inter- also take advantage of the free SuperCab city travels, KTM (Keretapi Tanah GO-KL City Bus service, which 03-9283 2333 Melayu)’s rail network traverses the covers four different routes and entire Peninsular Malaysia. Within stops at popular landmarks the Klang Valley, it offers the KTM along the way. The buses Komuter service. operate from 6am-11pm daily, and there is even free WiFi on Note All of KL’s train services converge at board. Go to www.gokl.com.my KL Sentral, the city’s transportation hub for more details.

Read how to get around KL like a pro at zafigo.com

Read more at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/Getting There & Around) 19 TOP ATTRACTIONS

DON’T LEAVE KL WITHOUT VISITING...

Petronas Twin Towers and KL Tower ARTWORK BY I AM MAY IAMMAY.TUMBLR.COM AM MAY I BY ARTWORK

Petronas Twin Towers Kuala Lumpur City Gallery The twins need no introduction, but Stroll through the Kuala Lumpur of did you know that they have a sibling? yore through classic photos, marvel Tower 3 opened last year, housing at a miniature of Dataran Merdeka, more upscale boutiques and some of view a wooden mural that captures the city’s best meals with the loftiest the city’s skyline, and sign up for craft views – including Nobu KL. KLCC Park, workshops. If you really want to get at the foot of the towers, is a great spot to know the city, make this your first to seek respite in the evenings and stop before sightseeing the adjacent watch scores of runners making good Dataran Merdeka and Sultan Abdul use of the cushioned tracks. Samad Building. www.petronastwintowers.com.my www.klcitygallery.com KL QUICK FACTS 20

FROM PRE-WAR BUILDINGS TO ELABORATE TEMPLES AND THE WORLD’S TALLEST TWIN STRUCTURES, THERE ARE SOME KEY LANDMARKS WORTH MAKING TIME FOR WHEN IN KL.

Batu Caves Perdana Botanical Gardens IMAGE COURTESY OF OF IMAGE COURTESY MALAYSIA TOURISM

Batu Caves can rent a bicycle to pedal your way A majestic 42.7m-tall statue of Lord around its 227-acre grounds, or hop Murugan beckons from the foot of aboard the shuttle trams. Free guided this iconic site. Wear good walking or walks are available on weekday sports shoes as you’ll need to scale mornings, with prior bookings. 272 steps to reach the Hindu temple www.klbotanicalgarden.gov.my and shrines located within three caves. Watch out for monkeys along Old National Palace the way. zafigo.com/batucaves When the King was still in residence, up until 2011, tourists were never KL Tower allowed past the closely-guarded The city’s highest vantage point is gates. Now, the former palace is also where you’ll find one of two of its the Royal Museum that not only revolving restaurants (the other is at welcomes visitors but you can even Federal Hotel). At the foot of the tower rent traditional costumes to pose is a pathway that leads to for photos. Forest Reserve, also known as the KL Forest Eco Park, the world’s only urban Klang River murals forest reserve. www.menarakl.com.my The river is still muddy but at least the once-bare grey walls flanking it Perdana Botanical Gardens are now a riot of colours that bear the The city’s oldest recreational green creative expressions of local street lung is made up of five different artists. Most sections of the riverbanks gardens and wildlife parks, including are not accessible to the public; the the world’s largest free flight aviary best views of the murals are from the that’s home to over 3,000 birds. You Pasar Seni LRT station.

See more key KL landmarks on the next page; find other places of interest in the city on zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/See) 21 ZAFIGO KL MAP KL QUICK FACTS 22

KEY LANDMARKS 23 UNIQUELY KL

7 UNDER-THE-RADAR KL ATTRACTIONS IMAGE BY SOFIA SHAMSUNAHAR SOFIA IMAGE BY

One Mic Stand SHOP - TOP SOUVENIRS 24

KL HAS SO MUCH TO OFFER THAT IT’S EASY TO LOSE TRACK OF THESE GEMS.

Join a free guided heritage walk 100m-tall flag pole now stands in Sure, you can leg it around on your that very same spot. Every Monday own but when you join a guided morning, the weekly flag raising tour, you learn so much more ceremony takes place at 10am, beyond the oft-crumbling facade performed by guards on horseback. of heritage buildings and historical landmarks. Free walks are available Trace the history of Malaysian around Dataran Merdeka, Pudu, and fabrics Brickfields. www.visitkl.gov.my Part of the stunning Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the National Textile Museum is Meet and mingle with local a charming gallery that documents the artists and artisans history of traditional Malaysian fabrics Kompleks Kraf Kuala Lumpur is not just since pre-historic times and traces their a place to shop for or view traditional evolution through the centuries. handicrafts; at the Craft Village, www.muziumtekstilnegara.gov.my witness master craftsmen at work and learn from them. Chat with professional Mix art with money artists at the Artists’ Colony while In 2011, Bank Negara set up Sasana watching them put paint to easel. Kijang as a centre of learning and it’s www.kraftangan.gov.my not just numismatic enthusiasts who have been flocking there but art lovers View regional artworks too: The Art Gallery within displays the Hiding in plain sight, the ASEAN national bank’s archive of more than Sculpture Garden is just across the 1,500 contemporary Malaysian and road from the entrance to Perdana ASEAN art. www.bnm.gov.my Botanical Gardens, on Persiaran Sultan Salahhudin. Scattered around this Tickle your funny bones neatly landscaped garden are prize- Stand-up comedy acts have been winning sculptures made of wood, gaining popularity in recent years, marble, iron and bamboo. unsurprisingly given Malaysians’ great sense of humour and the Raise the Jalur Gemilang amount of fodder provided by local Dataran Merdeka is significant in headlines. One Mic Stand presents a Malaysian history as that was where live show every Tuesday evening. the national flag was first flown. A www.facebook.com/1MicStand

Find more ways to fill your time in KL at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Do) 25 DINING

10 MALAYSIAN FOOD YOU SHOULD NOT MISS

01 NASI LEMAK

The rice is cooked in coconut milk for a creamy fragrance, and served with spicy sambal, crispy ikan bilis (small anchovy-like fish), hard-boiled egg, and cucumber slices. That’s just the ‘biasa’ or basic offering; you can pile curries and meat dishes on top of that. 02 TEH TARIK

This famous beverage is loved for its fragrance and milkiness. Watching it being prepared is a visual treat in itself - the thick liquid is ‘pulled’ between two mugs repeatedly until the desired frothiness is achieved. KL QUICK FACTS 26

IT’S HARD TO CHOOSE AMONG MALAYSIA’S ENDLESS FOOD OFFERINGS. WE’VE NARROWED IT DOWN TO 10 TO GET YOU STARTED.

03 07 DURIAN ROTI CANAI The indisputable King of Fruits is a divisive subject - you’ll either love it An Indian flat bread that can and can’t get enough of it, or abhor be enjoyed several ways: With it and run at the first whiff. The only curry, or slices of bananas (roti way to find out is to give it a try. It pisang) or sardines in tomato also features popularly in desserts sauce (roti sardin) folded within. such as cakes, cream puffs, added Try it dipped in dhall and sugar, a to cendol, and made into a sticky Malaysian childhood classic. 05 cake called dodol. PISANG GORENG 08 ASSAM LAKSA We love our bananas, we love Spicy, sour, spicy, savoury...this them even more battered and tamarind-based soup noodles with deep-fried. Sold at street stalls, chunks of fish is an explosion of the current fad sees the fritters flavours that’s bound to make you being topped with a variety of sweat, and want more. sauces, from cheese to chocolate, strawberry and butterscotch. 09 RAMLY BURGER There is no shortage of fast food 04 in KL but sometimes, nothing CURRY LAKSA beats a good old Ramly burger – Malaysia’s quintessential street Noodles in a spicy broth enriched with burger, grilled and flipped upon coconut milk and garnished with bean order. Customisation is encouraged: sprouts, long beans, juicy cockles, fish Double patties (chicken, beef or cakes, tofu puffs and chicken slices. lamb), cheese, eggs? At the more indulgent stalls, you get 06 crispy skin roast pork too. CENDOL BANANA LEAF RICE Jelly-like with a bright green or 10 emerald hue, the cendol swims Steaming hot rice served on a in coconut milk sweetened with banana leaf, with at least two types gula Melaka (coconut palm of vegetables, cucumber raita, your sugar) syrup under a heap of choice of protein, and ladles of crushed ice. Creamed corn, curries to douse the grains in. You boiled red beans and glutinous don’t eat the leaf, but everything on rice can be added to this dessert. it will be highly satisfying.

Find more good Malaysian eats at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Eat)

Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Malay at zafigo.com 27 DINING

ON THE FOOD TRAIL

GOOD FOOD LIES AROUND EVERY CORNER OF THE CITY, AND WHAT A FEAST AWAITS!

t’s hard to know where to begin If you’re hankering for Malay Iwhen it comes to eating out in KL. Go to One of the earliest Malay settlements in KL Malaysian cuisine alone presents is Kampung Baru, which means ‘new village’ and it an array of delights from various has stayed true to its bucolic roots, with traditional cultures and in KL, major international wooden houses on stilts still standing strong next fares are readily available as well. to more modern apartment blocks. Countless From open-air food stalls and food open-air food stalls, known as warung, serve a trucks to air-conditioned cafes and smattering of rice, noodles, soups and Thai- restaurants, shopping mall food courts influenced dishes that are typical of Malay cuisine. to fine meals with a view, KL is truly Try Nasi Lemak Antarabangsa (opens 6pm-5am) a gourmet’s mecca. These three are is the most famous stall here, doling out countless among the best spots to head to on an plates of Malaysia’s unofficial national dish from empty stomach. night till dawn.

Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Chinese at zafigo.com

Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Indian & Pakistani at zafigo.com KL QUICK FACTS 28

If you’re hankering for Chinese If you’re hankering for Indian Go to Jalan Alor is a buffet of stir-fries, rice, noodles Go to Brickfields, officially declared KL’s Little India, is and countless savoury dishes cooked in multiple a colourful neighbourhood that’s always bustling with ways. This popular tourist haunt is a short strip shoppers, diners and cars. At the main shopping strip, flanked by restaurants from one end to the next, with saree boutiques and CD stores blast top Bollywood stalls lined up in between and a festive atmosphere hits all day and night long while sidewalk stalls peddle throughout. Most restaurants provide indoor air- flower garlands for prayer purposes. There’s a quieter conditioned seating as well as al fresco areas, and side of Brickfields, where the YMCA is located, where English menus. many Chinese shops and stalls do brisk business Try Wong Ah Wah Restaurant (opens 5pm-4am) alongside spice shops and Indian restaurants. is the name on everyone’s lips, literally. Their Try Mess-style restaurant Visalatchi’s (opens 7.30am- bestseller is grilled chicken wings, loved for the 10.45pm) is a neighbourhood favourite for their authentic wafer-thin skin. South Indian cuisine dished up by chefs from Tamil Nadu.

Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Chinese at zafigo.com Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Others at zafigo.com

Read Top Must-Try Food in Kuala Lumpur – Indian & Pakistani at zafigo.com Read Top 8 Dinner Venues in Kuala Lumpur, Part I at zafigo.com 29 SHOPPING GUIDE

RETAIL THERAPY AT ITS BEST SHOP - TOP SOUVENIRS 30

THERE IS CERTAINLY NO SHORTAGE OF PLACES AND REASONS TO SPEND YOUR RINGGIT WHILE IN KL, AND HERE’S A GUIDE TO WHERE YOU SHOULD GO.

Trawl the malls and fashion accessory, the Jalan Tuanku Abdul We’ve lost track of the variety of goods sold rivals Rahman number of shopping malls in that of the malls. This strip is favoured by the KL but it’s in the tens, at least. Tip There’s at least one pasar Muslims when shopping for Well designed, equipped with malam taking place every their Eid ul-Fitr wardrobe, a plethora of facilities, and night of the week - ask your thanks to its high concentration home to many international hotel to point you to the of street-front fabric stores brands, they cater to nearest one. and Muslim fashion boutiques. practically every need. Tip GS Gill is an institution Tip Some of the city’s malls Chinatown/ here, known for its extensive (Suria KLCC and Pavilion Petaling Street selection of sporting goods. Kuala Lumpur among them) If you’re not too concerned You can also buy affordable offer discount or privilege about authenticity but simply winter gear from several cards for tourists – just want a good bargain (and mom-and-pop style stores. flash your passport at the an avenue to sharpen your information counter. haggling skills), this is the Brickfields place to go. Bags and shoes In between restaurants Night market are among the bestsellers. serving authentic Indian Woven into the lifestyle fabric Tip While the shops and cuisine and spice shops, KL’s of Malaysians is the ubiquitous some stalls are open from Little India is filled with festive pasar malam, open-air night morning till night, it can get stores selling sarees and bazaars that draw crowds very stuffy during the day. It’s accessories to match. from all walks of life. From best to head there in the early Tip Traditional plastic wok-fresh street food to evening and have dinner at bangles, usually worn by cooking ingredients, trendy the numerous hawker stalls the armfuls, make for great apparel to the latest mobile before starting your shopping. souvenirs too.

Find more shopping tips at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Shop) 31 UNIQUE SOUVENIRS

BRING A PIECE OF KL HOME YOU CAN BUY KEY CHAINS AND FRIDGE MAGNETS EVERYWHERE; FOR SOUVENIRS THAT SAY MORE THAN JUST ‘BEEN THERE, DONE KL’, PUT THESE MALAYSIAN BRANDS ON YOUR SHOPPING LIST.

Postcards by The Alphabet Press SHOP - TOP SOUVENIRS 32

Peter Hoe IMAGE BY THISBUNNYHOPS.COM IMAGE BY

Royal Selangor This respected home decor – that you’d be happy centennial brand has not only to get lost in. Read more at zafigo.com. stood the test of time with their fine 2nd Floor, Lee Rubber Building, 145 homewares and gift items, but has Jalan Tun HS Lee, KL Tel +603 2026 9788 made pewter hip again with designs Opens 10am-7pm daily that are relevant to today’s customers – including Star Wars figurines. thirtyfour made leather handsome www.royalselangor.com again by keeping their designs minimal (and therefore, timeless) to let the ARCH Collection translates Malaysia’s workmanship shine through. Bespoke cultural heritage into laser-cut and services are available at their Publika etched wooden art pieces that capture outlet, and there’s a jewellery line too. the country’s built heritage, including www.thirtyfour.net many of the capital city’s architectural gems. www.archcollection.com The Alphabet Press is reviving the ancient art of letterpress printing Lewré will keep you well-heeled for through contemporary applications every occasion with their fine selection and creative expressions of Malaysian of ladies’ shoes, from casual slip-ons elements, such as hand-printed to dainty stilettoes. Men’s designs are postcards depicting popular local eats. part of their offerings, as is a couture www.thealphabetpress.com collection. www.lewre.com Innai is the first name that KL’s fashion- Peter Hoe is a Petaling Street stalwart loving crowd throws out when it comes that has managed to remain under to exquisite women’s wear featuring the radar, yet is wildly successful. the batik, a traditional fabric, that the His boutique is a maze of gorgeous label has given creative updates. designs – everything from apparel to www.innaibatik.com

Find more shopping tips at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Shop) 33 WELLNESS

TOP-TO-TOE PAMPERING IMAGE COURTESY OF YTL HOTELS WWW.YTLHOTELS.COM HOTELS YTL OF IMAGE COURTESY KL QUICK FACTS 34

FROM A SIMPLE BLOW AND DRY TO AN INDULGENT SPA TREATMENT THAT LASTS HOURS, KL PRESENTS A SMORGASBORD OF THERAPIES FOR EVERY NEED AND BUDGET.

Spas Fitness studios You arrive jetlagged and have an Whether it is to beat jetlag or to balance early meeting the next day. What up all the eating you’re bound to be doing better treat than to sink into a in KL, heading to the gym for a workout is floral bath, then surrender to an never a bad idea. Most fitness centres in aromatherapy massage? Mid- to the city offer one-day passes, and there high-end spas are aplenty (KL’s 5-star are countless yoga and Pilates studios hotels have some of the best), providing who welcome walk-in customers too. top notch services within well- Try Popular gyms include Fitness appointed settings, and a wide First, Celebrity Fitness and Anytime variety of treatments. Fitness (see also ‘24-hr KL’ on pages Try The Majestic Spa at Majestic 37-38), each with several outlets around Hotel Kuala Lumpur, with treatments the Klang Valley. inspired by quintessential English experiences. www.majestickl.com Beauty, hair and nail salons There’s nothing a good hair day can’t fix; Massage and reflexology centres sometimes, a simple blow and dry is all At the end of a long day out and you need to perk yourself up. You’ll find about, relax your weary limbs with a hair salons at every mall, as well as nail Chinese- or Thai-style rubdown at the parlours and beauty centres, and most many small, fuss-free massage centres are open till 10pm. Many hair salons also dotted around the city. Prices start from offer nail services. RM30 for a one-hour reflexology that Try A Cut Above is one of the city’s will leave you with a spring in your step. most well established salons Chinese tuina massages are particularly (acutabove.com.my); champagne, helpful for sore muscles. macarons and manicures go hand- Try Reborn is a chain of reflexology in-hand at Boudoir Nail Spa (Bangsar centres based at the malls and popular Village II, Bangsar Tel +603 2282 5972 lifestyle areas. www.reborn.com.my Opens 9.30am-9.30pm)

Read our reviews of KL spas at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Wellbeing) 35 NIGHTLIFE

WINE AND DINE FOR A POST-DINNER TIPPLE OR NIGHT CAP, THESE WINE BARS WILL SATISFY EVEN THE MOST DISCERNING PALATES.

Nobu Kuala Lumpur

Claret Wine Bar, Troika Sky Dining Nobu Kuala Lumpur A stone’s throw away from KLCC, The Nobu empire expanded to KL Claret is one of three food & beverage this year, in a location as lofty as their outlets that take up the entire 24th worldwide reputation – on the 56th floor of swanky residential towers, floor of Tower 3, KLCC. At the bar, Troika. The drinks menu is extensive imbibe signature cocktails and localised and cocktails are presented beautifully, mocktails, paired with their proprietary complementing the breathtaking views Japanese-South American bar bites. from the patio. www.troikaskydining.com www.noburestaurants.com/kualalumpur

Tate, The Intermark Heli Lounge Bar Look for a hat placed randomly on a wall, Located on the 34th floor of Menara KH, push through the door and step into the this aviation-themed bar has a helipad roaring 20s. Inspired by the speakeasies that’s active during the day, and features a of the time, this bar is dressed in dark DJ console constructed from plane parts. wood with leather chairs. Drinks are Drink to 360-degree views of the city. made strong so merriment starts early. 34th Floor, Menara KL, Jalan Sultan Ismail thebiggroup.co/bignightout/tate. Tel +603 2110 5034 KL QUICK FACTS 36

Marini’s on 57, KLCC from day to night. Sip their signature Taking up the top floor of KLCC’s cocktails or whiskies; they also have Tower 3, you get amazing views of a great selection of whites, reds and the Petronas Twin Towers and is a Champagne. Wednesdays are ladies’ great spot to watch the city transform nights. www.marinis57.com

HOT SPOTS The heart of KL’s nightlife is Changkat Bukit Bintang, a trendy strip filled with bars and Western restaurants that draws a sizeable number of the expatriate population. Jalan P Ramlee is where you’ll find the most happening clubs, while the current ‘it’ night spot is the newly- reopened Zouk at TREC on Jalan Tun Razak. Another great option is Jalan Telawi in Bangsar, which has plenty of cafes, restaurants and bars. It’s also favoured by the expatriate community, as is Mont Kiara and nearby Publika. On Fridays and Saturdays, bars start filling up from 10pm and at the clubs, between 11pm-3am.

Experience more of KL’s nightlife at zafigo.com Marini’s on 57 (Kuala Lumpur/ More on the City/Do) 37 AROUND THE CLOCK

24-HOUR KL IN SOME RESPECTS, KL IS A CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS. THESE ARE SOME OF THE OUTLETS AND SERVICES YOU CAN COUNT ON 24/7. KL QUICK FACTS 38

If you are Hungry help to locate one, and ask them to Good food is available round the call ahead for you. It’s also wise to clock in KL. Your options include fast use only taxis that were arranged food, kopitiam, dim sum, mamak through the hotels instead of calling restaurants, nasi kandar, bakery, a random one. Kelantanese Malay cuisine... ask your hotel to recommend the nearest (and If you are Missing the news or safest) spots. a good read Besides 7-Eleven, newsstand-cum- If you are Tired and want convenience store mynews.com a massage has multiple outlets in KL where Lavish Spa offers a menu of body you can grab a beverage or snack, treatments to loosen tight muscles magazines and dailies, as well as and help you relax into better sleep. top-up credit on your prepaid SIM Their facilities include a swimming cards. www.mynews.com.my pool, sauna and an in-house cinema. Level 5, , Jalan Bukit Bintang If you are Running out of clean www.lavishspa.my clothes Coin-operated laundry began If you are Too energetic to sleep! appearing in KL like mushrooms after Get on the treadmill or elliptical, hold the rain since last year. They’re cheap, your plank, lift some free weights – easy to use, reliable and most outlets exercise is one way to beat jet lag also provide free WiFi so you can (by tiring yourself out!) and Anytime keep yourself occupied while waiting Fitness lives up to its name by never for your clothes to wash and dry. closing its doors. There are 10 outlets in the Klang Valley If you are Short of assistance anytimefitness.my Need an extra pair of hands or two? GoGet.my is available for practically If you are Unwell and need any errand, with 24-hour GoGetters medical attention available at various locations around You pay extra after midnight but the Klang Valley. Post your jobs on thankfully, 24-hour clinics are quite their website, wait for a GoGetter to easy to find in KL. Get your hotel’s ‘claim’ it, and pay cash upon delivery. 39 TOURIST TRAPS

SCAMS TO AVOID TRAVELLERS CAN BE EASY PREY FOR THE UNSCRUPULOUS. BE ON THE LOOKOUT FOR THESE COMMON TRICKS.

Budget or premier? Unmetered taxis At the KL International Airport (KLIA), At popular landmarks, where taxis can you need to buy a coupon at the taxi be in high demand, cabbies are known counters inside the arrival hall (don’t be to switch off the meter and charge a swayed by the taxi touts!) before joining flat (and inflated) fee. If you don’t agree the queue outside. There are three with the price quoted, don’t pick a fight. categories of taxis: Budget, premier, Just say no and walk away. and family. Some operators will try to What you can do Hail a taxi using convince you to take the latter two, so mobile apps like MyTeksi and Uber, or they can charge you more. try other public transportation options. As a guide, budget taxis can fit two to See pages 17-18 three people and up to two pieces of big luggage in the trunk, while family The ‘poor me’ lie vehicles can accommodate up to six This has been known to happen at adults comfortably. If your group is no transportation hubs like KL Sentral. bigger than that, insist that you only A stranger approaches you, claiming need a budget vehicle. to have lost all his belongings and What you can do The person behind asking if you can spare money for the counter may argue and tell you his ticket home. that the drivers will refuse to let you What you can do Just say no, pretend board their taxis. Tell him/her that you not to understand what they say, or are willing to take the risk. suggest that they go to the police.

Read up on other scams at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/City Guide/Dangers & Annoyances) LOCAL LINGO 40

SPEAK MALAYSIAN LAH! USEFUL AND POPULAR PHRASES TO HELP YOU NAVIGATE THE CULTURAL MAZE THAT IS MALAYSIA, WHERE MANY LANGUAGES ARE SPOKEN AND OFTEN, WITHIN THE SAME SENTENCE.

Terima Boleh Maaf Tak/ kasih tidak

Anda Saya Nak Sedap

Learn our national Lapar (lah-pahr): Hungry English though it shares some language Saya (sah-yah): I, or me similarities with pidgin English, Bahasa Malaysia is fairly easy Anda (ahn-dah): You with little added suffixes and to pick up as most words are Dia (dee-yah): He/she local colour. pronounced exactly as they are Read more at zafigo.com. Tip A special note to English Read up on other scams at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/City Guide/Dangers & Annoyances) spelled. These are some basic speakers: Ninety per cent of words and phrases that can Try some Manglish the time, ‘a’ is pronounced help you go a long way – or at In KL, English is just as widely as in fah-ther and not ‘a’ least endear you to the locals. spoken as Bahasa Malaysia as in that. The ‘e’ is usually Terima kasih (tehr-ree-mah or to be more accurate, it’s pronounced as in the, and only kah-seeh): Thank you Manglish that you are likely very occasionally as the ‘e’ as Maaf (mah-ahf): Sorry to hear us speak. Malaysian in they. Tak/Tidak (tahk/tee-dahk): No English, like its moniker Practice One of the simplest Boleh (bow-lay): Can suggests, is a mangled form forms of Manglish is the Bukan (boo-kahn): Not of the language that can be addition of the suffix ‘lah’ (with Kiri (kee-ree):Left confusing at first but once you the ‘a’ as in father) to the end Kanan (kah-nahn): Right get the hang of it, you’ll likely of sentences. For example: Terus (tehr-roos): Straight on find it funny and even practical. Can lah (Sure, fine by me) or no Nak (nahk): Want Manglish is mostly standard lah (No, of course not).

Pick up other useful and popular Malaysian phrases at zafigo.com (Kuala Lumpur/More on the City/Tips) 41 ZAFIGO TRAVEL CARDS

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First Edition, December 2015

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