Climbing Notes 2002 National Park Service U.S

North Cascades National Park Service Complex Climbing Notes 2002 National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior

Whidbey Island 2001 Search and Navy helicopter search and rescue Rescue Incidents team training with North Cascades National Park’s search NPS Rangers. and rescue personnel responded to 18 In 2001 search incidents in 2001, including assistance given and rescue to the Whatcom County Sheriff’s Office personnel responded with two incidents on Mount Baker . to 18 incidents The total unprogrammed emergency including a fatality cost to the National Park Service was on Mt. Baker. $15,225, of which 47% was for contract helicopter services. These figures do not include costs assumed by military and volunteer programs that also work on Park incidents. The 2001 accidents were consistent in the long-standing trend that the majority of climbers evacuated are injured in the non- technical approach or descent, not the actual climbing routes. Also noted in 2001 was that more trail hikers were injured and evacuated than those with mountaineering objectives. Five of the 2001 incidents are summarized below.

Klawatti Glacier, May 22 A ski-mountaineering party reported NPS photo a non-critical, but disabling knee injury to one member. The skier had taken a slow, Addressing Wilderness Climbing Impacts tumbling fall near the base of Klawatti Peak Rangers of the North Cascades National was designated by as Wilderness. after a descent of Klawatti’s south face. He Park Wilderness District have measured and During the summer of 2001, patrols were was evacuated by helicopter to inventoried human impacts in “trailless” ar- conducted in areas such as the Picket Range, Marblemount. eas of the park since its establishment. Inspiration Traverse, the Sulphide Glacier ap- Quien Sabe Glacier, July 14 Methods have varied and progressed proach to Mount Shuksan, and Triumph Col with recent efforts including the use of GPS in order to update previous years’ inventories. A climbing party was descending the mapping and measuring miles of access routes In addition to the anticipated bivy sites Quien Sabe Glacier when one climber with digital cameras and measuring tape. and climbers trails, a surprising number of punched through a snowbridge, falling This documentation of climbing trails firerings were noted, and subsequently re- onto rocks and injuring an ankle. He was and camps is done in accordance with the moved. Fires in subalpine areas leave long- unable to continue so party members Park’s Wilderness Management Plan, which term scars and are only allowed in designated carried him to flatter ground and alerted has a goal to limit and even rehabilitate the hu- low elevation camps. The firerings were found rangers via cell phone. The climber was man impacts. The plan was approved in 1989 in very remote areas, such as the headwaters evacuated to Marblemount by helicopter. after much of North Cascades National Park Impacts continues on back Goode Mountain, August 1 Two climbers were below the Goode Interested in climbing condition reports? Glacier en route to ascend the NE Buttress when ice fell from above their location, slid So is the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount! While rang- across snow, hit rock, then showered the ers themselves send in reports from their daily patrols, all climbers are en- climbers with football sized chunks of ice. couraged to report firsthand findings through one of several avenues: They had heard the icefall and were scrambling to take cover when they were Leave information in the space provided on your Volunteer struck. Both suffered minor injuries, Climbing Register upon signing out. including a crushed hand, but they were Write in the trail and climbing conditions log kept on the front able to extricate themselves, provide self counter at the Wilderness Information Center. first-aid and hike out to the Stehekin ranger Give the Wilderness Office a call ñ 360-873-4500 x39. Search and Rescue continues on back Blue Bags – use them to reduce your impact Climbing rangers continue to find viously not feasible for all climbing desti- While North Cascades National Park piles of human waste when patrolling at nations. has no specific collection facilities, these snow, glacier and rock camps. At the Wilderness Information Cen- bags (with waste) have been approved for To say the least, the presence of hu- ter in Marblemount (and some other sta- disposal in any proper waste receptacles man waste on snow or in the rocks tions where permits are available) you can in Skagit and Whatcom counties. around your camp is visually offensive, pick up blue bags or the more deluxe Use of the bags is especially encour- unpleasant and possibly a serious health WAG bag free of charge. aged for snow camps on the Sulphide Gla- hazard. The WAG bag contains biodegrad- cier prior to compost toilet melt out, The NPS has addressed the issue able plastic bags, hand towelettes and a (about mid-July) and on the approach to with toilets in some areas, but this is ob- gelling powder to solidify the waste. Eldorado (year-round).

The Chopping Block NPS photo Coleman Glacier Gregory Mroz Mount Shuksan NPS photo Fee demonstration program continues Search and rescue The Recreation Fee Demonstration reservations and fee programs between Continued from front Program remains in effect for most land North Cascades, Mount Rainier and station for further treatment. management agencies. Olympic National Parks. Bacon Peak, August 7 North Cascades National Northwest Forest Pass While backcountry A climber on Bacon Peak’s north side Park participates through permits for any over- slipped on steep ice while travelling with a the Northwest Forest The Northwest Forest night camping have been full pack. The fall was arrested in a rocky Pass. Pass is available at most in effect for decades, no area and he absorbed most of the impact Parking areas for all Forest Service or Park of- fee or reservation system on his head. climbing destinations fices, via phone (1-800- for the general public The group continued travel for several along the Cascade River 270-7504) and online at currently exists at the hours, but when the injured climber’s Road and the Sulphide www.naturenw.org. North Cascades Na- neurological functions deteriorated a Glacier approach to An annual pass costs $30 tional Park. ground-to-air radio transmission Mount Shuksan (among and a day pass costs $5. Rangers are inter- eventually alerted park rangers. others) require a pass. ested in your thoughts The climber was evacuated to a The Northwest Forest Pass is avail- about the possible addition of fees and/ hospital and treated for a skull fracture. able at most ranger stations. or reservations for permits. Climbers are Park officials are also exploring ideas encouraged to inquire at the Wilderness Mount Baker, September 2 to standardize the backcountry permit, Information Center. Four climbers on one rope were ascending Coleman Glacier when one What to know when you Wilderness impacts member slipped on steep ice at 8600’. All four climbers were pulled off their take a cell phone climbing Continued from front feet, slid down the icy section, cleared a Notification of backcountry emer- of Access Creek, the margins of the Chal- large open crevasse and landed on a gencies by cell phone is no longer an un- lenger Glacier and Triumph Col. narrow ice shelf. usual occurrence, although reception in The North Cascades Wilderness Com- The one uninjured member left to mountain areas is far from dependable. mittee continually reviews and discusses op- summon assistance, leaving at the scene Rangers at the North Cascades Na- tions to address human impacts in off-trail ar- one climber with minor injuries, one tional Park neither advocate nor discour- eas. Topics of discussion in 2002 include: semiconscious climber with serious spinal age packing a phone on a climbing trip. Further restrict use. A permit system and leg injuries, and one member who Cell phone distress calls have had that limits the numbers of parties allowed in likely died upon impact in the fall. positive and negative results. In a number each cross-country zone has been in effect for NPS rangers and an ER physician of incidents, phones have successfully many years. One consideration for prevent- (volunteer Mountain Rescue member) alerted rescuers to mountain accidents, ing impacts is to lower the number of parties were flown to the scene. allowing rescue to begin hours earlier allowed in areas where statistics show a cor- The critically injured climber was than it would normally. Just as often, relation between amount of use and impact. helicopter short-hauled 2000 feet down, however, poor reception has resulted in Restoration of cross-country impacts. off the glacier. The remaining climber was confusing communication, and unneces- Parts of the seriously gutted climber’s trails assisted down to a bivouac for the night. sary responses. into Boston and Eldorado Basins have been Impending darkness, high winds and When calling the Park Commu- rerouted and restoration attempts are in an oncoming storm precluded flying the nications Center 360-873-4500, x37 (best) progress. If funding and policy challenges are injured completely off the mountain. or 911 regarding an emergency, state your met, this type of effort might be expanded to Volunteer mountain rescuers carried location and phone number early in the other cross-country areas. in supplies through the night to sustain the call in case of a connection failure. Expand efforts to promote Leave No ER doctor’s efforts with the critical patient. Clearly communicate the purpose Trace principles. Not just the amount of use but The next day, several western Washington of your call and if you are requesting assis- also the type of use plays a dramatic role in Mountain Rescue Association units and tance or not. Failure to do this has resulted wilderness impact. The key LNT consider- rangers conducted an overland carry-out in unnecessary rescue responses. ations for climbers are camping on rock or to the trailhead due to the continuing storm. Be prepared to handle your emer- snow, not trampling fragile vegetation, limiting The fatally injured climber was gency as you would without a phone. party size, managing waste and using a stove. recovered several days later.