28.09.18

The stars are born Meet the up-and-coming actors breaking into the big time

EDITOR’S LETTER

LAURA WEIR

One of my jobs as editor of this magazine is to celebrate and THE HOMEWARE champion our creative industries. The  brilliant actors we’ve Goad’s signature scalloped pro led on page  for our annual rising stars feature may not shades get the Liberty treatment. Swoon. Want. Need. Etc. be A-listers yet, but in the next few years expect them to be MATILDA GOAD FOR LIBERTY dominating at the Ba as, Oliviers and Oscars. Take -year-old lampshade, from £140 Jodie Comer, who’s already becoming a cult star for her role in (libertylondon.com) BBC’s totally addictive Killing Eve (hands up if you’ve already binge watched the whole series). Or Percelle Ascott, another - year-old who’s not only starring in Net ix’s latest young adult hit The Innocents (think Stranger Things .) but has his own production company. This new gen are seriously impressive. Elsewhere in the issue, on page  Isabel Hardman trawls EDITOR IN CHIEF Laura Weir Westminster’s corridors to get the latest on whether a new centrist @laura_weir party can really emerge to save Britain. It’s riveting — if dispiriting — stu . We also have a piece from the brilliant Farrah Storr on page . The Cosmo editor-in-chief has penned us a heartening piece on the rewards of early career struggle. And whatever you do, don’t miss our huge London Fashion Week round-up on page  — Here are the I and our fashion and beauty teams spent three days running round editor’s top ve picks the shows spotting next year’s biggest trends, just for you. Enjoy! of the week 

THE CANDLE The latest in its city candles series. This one has notes of incense, wood and  tobacco. DIPTYQUE New York candle, £50 (diptyqueparis.co.uk)

THE BAG Are we looking at the chicest bumbag ever? Too cute. FENDI shearling belt bag, £1,190, at matchesfashion.com

THE BOOK The 20th anniversary of the THE SHOES publication of Lawson’s kitchen bible A pretty little slip on, ain’t it? calls for a cult reissue. ‘How to Eat’ by MAGDA BUTRYM shoes, £700 Nigella Lawson, £14.99 (penguin.co.uk)  (shop.magdabutrym.com)

Visit us online: standard.co.uk/esmagazine • Follow us: @eveningstandardmagazine @ESmago cial @ESmago cial

Editor in chief Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Art director Ben Turner Fashion director at large Bay Garnett Fashion features director Katrina Israel Arts & entertainment director Dipal Acharya Acting features director Nick Curtis Art editor Jessica Landon Senior fashion editor Sophie van der Welle Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Picture assistant Madalina Loghin Fashion editor Sophie Paxton Features writer Frankie McCoy Fashion assistant Jessica Skeete-Cross Acting beauty director Rose Beer Beauty director Katie Service Social media editor Natalie Salmon Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Offi ce administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeff e Contributing creative editor Richard Gray Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Nicky Yates (style editor at large)

Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliff e House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web off set by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their

Charlotte Bland; Billy Scheepers. Cover photographs by Edd Horder. Horder. Edd by photographs Cover Scheepers. Billy Bland; Charlotte 34-47 pages on details Fashion Skeete-Cross. Jessica by Styled agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2018. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited

28.09.18 ES MAGAZINE 3

Dress by Omar Kiam for capital gains Ben Reig. American What to do in London Harper’s Bazaar, 1950

by FRANKIE McCOy 1 gLass act Pull on your roomiest drinking boots 3 as London Cocktail Week pours into the city in debauched style. Expect Art of the deal £6 cocktails across town, special Learn how to invest in art at 34 mixology masterclasses and er, a Mayfair and find out where all Porn Star Martini townhouse. Hic. the women artists are at Soho 1-7 Oct (drinkup.london) House, then drink Ruinart at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery with Yana Peel as the inaugural MeaSuring up Bazaar Art Week kicks off. Measure for Measure is one of 1-7 Oct (hearstlive.co.uk) the more indie Shakespeare plays, so extra points for watching Hayley Atwell and2 Jack Lowden alternate the roles of Deputy and Novice in Josie Rourke’s new production at the Donmar 4 Warehouse. Tickets from £10. Until haLL 24 Nov (donmarwarehouse.com) of fame Tate Modern’s Grub StreetS Turbine Hall Restaurant-hopping tours around (left) has Battersea Power Station, talks played host to 5 from the likes of Pierre Koffmann some seriously and Andrew Wong and sashimi- bizarre fuelled cinema: the London large-scale Restaurant Festival is back, so installations come hungry. 1-31 Oct over the years. Now it’s the turn of (londonrestaurantfestival.com) Cuban artist Tania Bruguera; her previous exhibition at Tate Modern involved live horses. Just saying. Free entry. 2 Oct to 24 Feb (tate.org.uk) Let’s go girLs! That don’t impress me much, oh oh ohhh —we’re Spot on going out tonight because Yayoi Kusama is one of the most the goddess who is important — and coolest — Shania Twain is coming Japanese contemporary artists, to the O2 for two nights 7so lucky us that a huge exhibition of only. Man! Tickets from fantastical, gorgeously hued new work (left) 6 £69.75. 2-3 Oct is coming to Victoria Miro gallery. Free (theo2.co.uk) entry. 3 Oct to 21 Dec (victoria-miro.com)

Last chance: go appreciate nature’s finest at Adrian Houston’s look ahead: London girl and Brits Critics Choice glorious A Portrait of the Tree, a series of photos of celebrities’ favourite winner Jorja Smith takes the O2 Brixton Academy for the finale

Courtesydrinkup.london; photography; LillianBassman/Victoriacourtesy © Tate Albertand Museum; courtesyArtsVictoriaOtaFineandMaguire; Miro;Alex Getty; illustrationJonathan Machas Calugiby @ trees, from Goldie Hawn’s to Nick Mason’s. Until 28 Sep (theunitldn.com) of her smash solo tour. 17-18 Oct (livenation.co.uk)

28.09.18 Es MAgAzINE  UPFRONT Laura Craik on her love for her adopted city, TV’s latest high-fashion thriller and why Kylie Jenner is milking it

ou think London is a city drowning in the milk of human kindness? Think again. We’re a bunch of ‘arrogant’ tossers — at least, according to a YouGov survey of Ypeople who don’t live here. The city itself, meanwhile, has been branded ‘expensive’, ‘crowded’ and ‘chaotic’. Harsh but fair, non-Londoners. Harsh but fair. We didn’t really need a survey to tell us this: we already have regional house guests for that. I fondly like to call them The Nahs. No sooner are they o the train than the moaning starts. Art exhibition? Open city: A 2017 artwork Nah, the admission fee’s too steep. Lunch at the by Sir Peter farmers’ market? Nah, let’s just make Blake celebrating the entertainers sandwiches. Pub? Nah, they’ll just get some from across cans from Nisa. By pm, they have a Britain who have come to London headache — it’s the pollution — and spend over the years to the rest of the weekend sitting at your perform at Chiswick Empire Theatre; kitchen table, bitching about someone you left, Riccardo Tisci both went to school with in the Nineties. Who’s more insular: the person who moved to London, or the person who built a life  miles down the road from their childhood home? That not everyone who lives here was born here is one of London’s biggest strengths. No one “We came to London to escape arriving from Europe, Africa, Asia or, in my case, insularity, not to promote it” Edinburgh, can a ord to be arrogant: apart from anything else, it’s not the most ideal attitude to While everyone is quite rightly raving about the adopt if you want to put down roots and make acting prowess of Sandra Oh and Jodie Comer (see new friends. We came here to escape insularity, page ), I’m just as obsessed with the show’s not to promote it. As Riccardo Tisci, an Italian costume designer, Phoebe de Gaye. Not since Sex helming one of Britain’s most storied brands, said and the City has high fashion been such an integral part a er his debut at last week’s Burberry show: ‘I came of a TV series, and how ace it is to see Comer’s character, to England when I was , and very shy. This is where Villanelle, rocking a pink Molly Goddard dress (below I cracked out of my egg.’ le ), Balenciaga boots, a Miu Miu bomber jacket and a When you live here, it’s easy to forget how a uent brocade Dries Van Noten suit. Brings a whole new London is when compared with the most impoverished meaning to the phrase ‘if looks could kill’. More proper parts of Britain, and why the price of every comestible fashion on TV, please, everyone. Thx. and leisure activity feels so extreme. I get why non- HOT Londoners feel that we’re the yolk, and they’re the egg BOWLED OVER #RYDA white. But arrogant? Insular? This week’s WTF? moment comes courtesy of Kylie Ryan Reynolds and David Beckham’s Nah. We’re all potential omelettes, bravely Jenner, as so many WTF? moments do. ‘Last night I budding bromance coming out of our shells and trying to make had cereal with milk for the  rst time. Life changing,’ on Instagram. the best of things. she tweeted. The internet couldn’t deal with the idea that someone could have lived to the age of  without FASHION IS KILLING IT ever having eaten such a basic combo, and NOT London is currently divided into two immediately set out to expose her. Within minutes, GREY CARS Most likely to be sorts of people: those who still haven’t someone had found evidence of a post from  convicted of speeding, watched Killing Eve, and those who showing a bowl of bran  akes, berries and milk. according to a survey. can’t stop talking about it, and But wait. Maybe it wasn’t milk. Maybe it was are boring the pants o yoghurt. But then, surely the bowl’s sides were everyone else. Me, I think too clean to contain yoghurt. And so it went on. Phoebe Waller-Bridge I’ll tell you what that bowl contained: the dead should just write white atoms of a million wasted brain cells spent everything, including the caring about Kylie Jenner’s breakfast. That said, State of the Union address anyone who eats cereal with yoghurt is

and the Queen’s Christmas speech. a psychopath. Shinner;Josh Getty;ChiswickTimeline muralCopyright 2017. BlakePeter (chiswicktimeline.org)GreenUnderground Turnham station’ at

6 ES MAGAZINE 28.09.18

THE most WANTED Silver liningS: rocket into autumn with these intergalactic boots

KG Kurt GeiGer tyra boots, £109 (kurtgeiger.com)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ARiAnnA LAGO STYLED BY SOPHiE VAn DER WELLE 28.09.18 es magazine 9

Mimi FLASHBULB! Wade Party pictures from around town

by FRANKIE McCOy phOtOgRAphs by jAMEs pEltEKIAN Alice Naylor- Leyland Dame Anna Wintour Leomie Stan Jasmine Hemsley, Anderson Stella Smith Caroline Issa McCartney and Mimi Xu

all stars, Mayfair Margaret Watch out, Soho Old Bond Street saw some Clunie For your first LFW bash you major stars colliding as Stella want to go big, and boy did McCartney launched her Cartier go gigantic with its vegan leather trainer Tigerlily inaugural shindig at Jack Taylor collaboration with Solomons Club, where the real Stan Smith free-flowing — a trainer so Margarita lollies Jill Carter exciting that Anna soon led to and Leigh Julia Winnie Francis Wintour popped Restoin Margaret Clunie, Harlow in to nod her Roitfeld Betty Bachz and approval before Mabel Nell Hudson storming the real Madonna Madonna McVey the GIF photo booth arrived to have with serious dance McCartney Anya moves. Riz Taylor-Joy Ahmed sign her new kicks.

Siobhan Lady Bell Mary Charteris Matty Bovan Sabrina Dhowre and Nikita Idris Elba Andrianova and Sascha Lilic

Abbey Clancy and Mary McCartney Thomas Shickle and Molly Goddard Patsy Ellen von Kensit Dave Gardner, Unwerth Gary Liv Tyler and Card Lucie de la Falaise Adwoa Aboah and Edie Campbell

loved up, Mayfair Brooklyn Susan Beckham Everyone got aboard the Love magazine Bender train for its Tanqueray-fuelled, Chanel-inspired 10th birthday bash at Loulou’s, with Jourdan Dunn boogying away in blinding sequins, Rose McGowan on the Perrier-Jouët Paloma Faith and and Paloma Faith and Katie Grand Katie Grand just having the best time.

DJ Fabienne Go to eveninGstandard.co.uk/esMaGaZine For More partY pictures FLASHBULB! Party pictures from around town

Moses Sumney

Sonny Hall Stephanie Gemma Michael Chilvers and and Bee Phair Halpern Beardsworth Maddi Lady Amelia Waterhouse Windsor

Life and soLe, Marylebone Golden glitter balls, DJ Henri Vanessa millions — possibly Adesuwa White billions — of sequins Aighewi and midnight crab doughnuts at Chiltern Firehouse for the Christian Louboutin x Sam Doyle Maxim and Sai Halpern party, where DJ Magnus and Bennett Laura Amazonica played to an Betty Bachz Jackson absolutely ecstatic Maxim Magnus, Sonny Greta IAMDDB Hall and Adesuwa Bellamacina Aighewi until 2am.

Charli Caroline Howard Rush Tiphaine de Lussy

Johnny Lauren Coca and Flaviana Santo Edie Matata Domingo Campbell Rae Morris Nick Grimshaw, Pixie Geldof, Alexa Chung Hermione and Jack Underwood Guinness

Emma Charlotte Wiggins, Greenwell Elinor Weedon and Sam Rollinson WeLL Chung, Holborn After a brilliant Clara SS19 show, it was heLL for Leather, Amfo Gala Gordon Piccadilly Alexa Chung’s and Sheherazade The cat’s out of the bag: afterparty at a very Goldsmith Mulberry’s new store is blue-hued Amex rather gorgeous, as Edie Platinum House, where Campbell, Anna Brewster and all her best buds — Nick Sam Rollinson found out at Grimshaw, Pixie Geldof, Johnny Coca’s celebratory supper Gala Gordon — flocked in to club, with a steady stream of dirty cut a rug and refuel with Martinis and truffle burgers to Anna Tredwell’s mac and cheese Brewster prepare everyone for fashion week. while Geldof and Chung’s brother Dom DJed.

12 es magazine 28.09.18 go to eveningstandard.Co.uk /esMagaZine for More PartY PiCtures

Rex 14 14 es es M agazine illustration BY illustration Isabel Hardman be the moment for a new centrist party? plagued by public infighting, could now the Labour and Conservative parties corridors of Westminster. With both Privately, it has dominated talk in the 28.09.18 meet Michelle tho Michelle investigates M pson

in the middle? meet in the middle? ave you set up your new centrist party yet? If you haven’t, you’re in a minority. Talking about a new political force has become the Westminster equivalent of fantasy football, albeit with less inspir- H ing teams. And even though the parties are currently having their tribal conference gatherings, the gossip on some of the fringes and in bars will be as much about who might leave their party as it will be about what the exist- ing party plans to do. One MP who is longing for a new movement says: ‘We can’t go on like this until the next election. There is a group of voters who feel homeless and detached from the

28.09.18 es magazine 15 “It’s easy when having a ght with your national leader to yearn for a simpler life in which local party meetings are just you and a glass of gin”

main parties — and it’s fair to say that there’s a group of the stu that normal people worry about when making us in Parliament who feel that, too.’ decisions like this. It’s also that for Labour, far more For some, the new centrist party will always be just a than for the other parties, this is kind of part of your fantasy for when they’ve temporarily grown weary with blood, your heritage. It really is like walking away from the reality of party politics, a little like a child wishing your own family.’ they had actually been adopted by a fairytale princess Whittling down the numbers of the would-be splitters a er being scolded by their own parents. It’s easy when is another group of Corbyn opponents who believe it is you are having a  ght with your national leader and your better to stay in the Labour Party and  ght to bring it constituency to yearn for a simpler life in which local back to what it once was. They have mounted a vigorous party meetings are just you and a glass of gin, rather operation over the past few weeks of talking to MPs than bores who have been defending their own personal believed to be on the brink of leaving and sowing doubt  efdoms for years. But there is no denying that there is a about whether this is a good idea for them personally, or hunger among some MPs, and in parts of the electorate, for their constituents. Their most e ective message is to for a di erent political force. those representing solidly Labour seats: they tell their Bump into any Liberal Democrat or ‘moderate’ colleagues that of course a Labour candidate will always Labour MP and the conversation will soon turn to the win in that constituency, so if the sitting MP leaves the need for a new party. Some Lib Dems are so keen to party then they’re just handing the seat over to another conjure up scenarios of this new organisation that it hard le candidate who may make it even easier for becomes easy to forget that they’re currently members Corbyn to move in to Downing Street. It’s a compelling of a party that already claims to be the only centrist argument if one of your chief reasons for going is because force in British politics. The plight of Labour’s centrists you think Corbyn as Prime Minister would do tremen- has long been known, too. dous damage to the country. But once you move beyond the imaginary refuge for Even those who still think the Labour Party just can- homeless centrists and start asking about what might not be saved and that to stay in it is to enable Corbyn are actually happen, it quickly becomes clear that no one now catching their breath a little before jumping. ‘It really knows. It’s not just that a new centrist party needs to be a really big moment if it happens,’ says one would be di cult and costly to set up, or that it would MP, who seems to have stared over the cli edge and be still more di cult to get an MP elected. It’s not even panicked somewhat. Others have told friends they want that the reality of a new party would be that it would to stay in the party and try to move its position on Brexit. still contain people who sometimes vehemently disa- They seem the most enthused of all the groups, as they’ve greed with one another over policy. It’s that no one who got something constructive to do beyond holding miser- wants a new party is mentally ready to do anything able secret meetings in which they talk about leaving about it. without actually doing anything. Labour ‘moderates’ are the most obvious candidates The anti-Brexit brigade in the Tory party contains for walking out of their current organisation and the MPs who would be most likely to defect. It is remark- setting up a new one. A er all, it is well-reported able how many Conservatives have openly said that that a number of them have been meeting secretly they could not stay in a party led by one of the front- to discuss leaving Labour now that Jeremy runners for the leadership, Boris Johnson. Sir Vince Corbyn has consolidated his power over its Cable told the Evening Standard recently that ‘con- structures. Tony Blair is known to be sympa- versations’ were ongoing with ‘four or five’ thetic to the argument that the Labour Party Conservative MPs unhappy with the direction is over, but he has recently switched to warn- their party is taking. There are certainly MPs ing about the impossibility of setting up a who are worried about what the Tories currently new centrist party. He wrote in The Times stand for, but they are far, far behind those this month that ‘in the British system such miserable Labourites in that they believe that an endeavour may be impossible’. But some- it is all to play for in their party, and that they thing other than practical problems is hold- just need to organise themselves better in ing Labourites back. order to change the Conservative appeal for ‘They’re just not psychologically there, the next election. One says: ‘I’m not opposed yet,’ says one MP who is minded to leave. to the idea at all, but I think there’s more of ‘It’s not just their jobs, their mortgages, all a chance to save our own party. We just

Mission impossible? Tony Blair has doubted

the viability of new centrist party Getty

16 ES MAGAZINE 28.09.18

“Even those Lib Dems who think their party can lead the change agree that there are signi cant branding problems”

don’t have that sense of total desperation that our ent from those that the SDP struggled with in the s, Labour friends have.’ there are still Lib Dems who recall the problems that their If Tories did come over, it would change the political modern party faced when it was created. There were argu- landscape, suggesting that a genuine political realign- ments about the name, with a great deal of resentment ment was under way rather than a remodelling of the about the order in which ‘Social’ and ‘Liberal’ appeared. centre le . A year a er the Social and Liberal Democrats was formed, The Lib Dems do have all the structures and money it was renamed the Liberal Democrats. Now, it is thinking to make a centrist party happen far quicker than if  ee- of renaming once again, a bit like the ever-changing law ing MPs tried to set up a new one. It’s instructive that the  rm Pearson Specter Litt in Suits. Women’s Equality Party asked the Lib Dems for help Labourites also argue that the SDP didn’t fail: it suc- when it was getting started— and was shocked by how ceeded in dragging their party back to the centre, even much everything would cost, and how complicated the if it never established itself as a major party. structures of a real political party are. But you can see why, once an MP looks into whether Cable’s party is re-pitching itself as something he a new centrist party might work, they retreat, hoping rather clunkily calls a ‘movement for moderates’, though that someone else might pitch up and do all the dirty once again it isn’t quite psychologically there in terms of work of  nding donors and committees and so on. Indeed, what this might mean. There are those in the Liberal even though most would-be members of this new organi- Democrats who are currently enjoying being the anti- sation say dramatically that ‘we can’t go on like this’, Brexit party and there are those who think that being a many are quite clearly happy to carry on just as they are single-issue party is damaging. There is also a split for quite a while longer, fantasising about a new party between Lib Dems who think their party can lead the while staying well away from its reality. new centrist force in politics, even if they have to rename it, and those who believe that the Lib Dems can only really be a part of something entirely new. It is certainly the case that none of those wavering Labourites would defect straight to the Lib Dems if they ever do manage to  nd the courage to leave their own party. Many of them confess to feeling very politically close to certain Lib Dems such as Norman Lamb and Jo Swinson, but feel the Lib Dem brand is damaged beyond repair. Even those Lib Dems who think their party can lead the change agree that there are signi cant branding problems. They’re quite comfortable, for instance, with the idea of the party’s name changing, and it not being what one thinker describes as ‘too precious about what we stand for, beyond being liberals, of course’. But any rebrand will be painful for many in the party who  nd the current drunken spider-web of inter- nal structures strangely thrilling. A er all, Liberal Democrats know better than anyone else what it’s like to set up or dramatically change a party. The history of the Social Democratic Party (SDP) serves as a caution- ary tale to anyone dallying with the idea of setting up a new party. Founded by the ‘Gang of Four’ Labour mod- erates — Roy Jenkins, David Owen, Shirley Williams and Bill Rodgers — the SDP lived from March  until March , when it was folded into the new Social and Liberal Democrats. The SDP failed to make the electoral gains for which its founders and new members had hoped. But even if the circumstances for a political party today are rather di er-

Come together: Liberal leader David Steel, left, and Shirley Williams of the Social Democratic Party annouce their parties’ merger in 1988 Getty

18 ES MAGAZINE 28.09.18

& OtHer StOrIeS shoes £59 style notes (stories.com) Wandler luna bags, What we love now £580, at net- a-porter.com EDITED by KATRINA ISRAEL What’s neW pussycat?

18 From Shania Twain to Mrs W Robinson, few haven’t been n a n

IO seduced by the roar of a big t

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ael k ael en masse, from Michael Kors to Max Mara, on chic coats and blouses that MICH have less bite, more purr power. Cult classic Still not convinced? Fashion If there was a summer bag critic Hilary Alexander’s new blockbuster, it had to have been book, Leopard (£16.99, the Wandler Hortensia with its Laurence King), charts the signature trapeze shape. For look’s dominance from the AW18 the Amsterdam brand has Stone Age to the digital followed up with the Luna. ‘The age. So succumb. They’re a contemporary bag category for roaring success on both us is huge,’ says Lisa Aiken, the runway and the high Net-A-Porter’s retail fashion street this autumn. director. ‘Sales have doubled re/dOne + GH BaSS & CO shoes, £310, at since last season and as a result GannI blouse, net-a-porter-com we’re bringing on new styles by £290 (ganni.com) our existing brands.’ Bag yours sooner than later. 18

W zadIG & VOltaIre jumper, £515 (zadig- rd a et-voltaire.com) O 18 OM f W t this is a swathe aquazzura shoes, £530, at marthalouise.com of dummy uler a InsTaRglam Just when you thought a Gucci collection

enza SCHO couldn’t get more colourful, in comes O fashion illustrator Bruno Santin pr @aquilesbrunosantin JOIe faux fur coat, £435, at Harvey nichols (020 7201 8088)

equIpMent shirt, £250 (equipmentfr.com) Waiting for a sign? analogue poweR Well, here’s one… Flash back to the Dewey Noush’s brightly Decimal System and pre-exam hued gemstone — from electric lapis cram sessions with Equipment’s nOuSH nostalgic Library Stamp shirt, rings, £780 lazuli to grassy each, at malachite — rings which features key dates from moda human rights history. Cue operandi. and pendants are inked milestones such as Rosa com embellished with Parks’ 1913 birthday to the Civil talisman symbols Rights Act of 1968. You have and Roman and been educated. Arabic initials. Follow us at @eveningstandardmagazine IllustrationJonathanMachas Calugiby @

20 ES mAgAzINE 28.09.18

22 22 and wide camel chinos. out for a pint with a knackered denim jacket weather changes. Smart enough for work, or checked beauty is the cool choice as the good three times, this 100 per cent wool length once and wrapped around your neck a scarf you’ll ever buy, but folded along the At seven feet long, it could be the biggest Tha Diptyque, a mix ofa Diptyque, mix musk, the market that gets folk the gets that market Selfridges this weekend. weekend. this Selfridges talking. This season, it’s season, This talking. French fragrance house fragrance French Spray it, let it and settle Fleur de Peau fragrance comes on comes to fragrance orange and bergamot. bergamot. and orange up and ask, ‘What are are up ‘What ask, and Give something new a Give something wait. When you think When you wait. think you can’t smell youit any can’t Every so aoften Every new chance and pop and into chance somebody will come will somebody this: the latest from the latest this: more... guaranteed guaranteed more... es magazine es What to buy now M you wearing?’ T ’s ’s a wra en 28.09.18

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e best on best the market. is some of the rainwear the tech-y And chinos. or worn jeans with best Isle knits, Fair brilliant its Soho carry both Oi and Polloi in Liberty shops such Menswear as to them. victim falling without trends the latest who want to keep up with for a those been go-to has brand Copenhagen-based it. The try Norse Projects, in a haven’t bit invested of For of those you who l + abel abel lus £155 £155 (norseprojects.com) No by richard gray richard by call watch-style science. young man, is what we watch more. That, you see each individual classic and expensive, watch with something affordable, bright goes that by an pairing Trust us. The theory among trendy types. Cartier is now a thing high-end, high-spend Swatch with a Eighties-looking aTeaming seriously new timepiece trend. look with this natty Mix up your watch hi-lo The new RSE P R o JECTS T (cartier.co.uk) £16,600 watch, CARTIER

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, sounds like hell, the sort of thing I have full-on Elm incredibly valuable high-performance sports car especially stressful. Driving around London in an anywhere ever again. be to chuck my cars keys away and never drive became rich and famous, the first thingI’d do would feeling more confused than angry. Because if I ever getting done for drink driving — I’m always left whenever this happens — a rich and famous person over the limit is just a really terrible idea. But in a powerful car while being more than two times wishing to state the obvious, driving around London L Pizza forPizza tea it is. ease a little. I’ve still got a few stone to play with. The Rock weighs 18.5 stone, which put my mind at But then I did some research and it outturns that a little over 14 stone. Is that a lot? It sounded like lot. a Chernobyl Geiger counter before settling finally on them. I looked down to see the numbers whirling like bathroom. After hesitating, Icarefully stepped on around his house, I spotted some scales in his and, during a quick check/shamelesssecurity snoop fantasising about wolfing them down. super-high calorie cheat meals on and Instagram, eating, is looking at Dwayne ‘The Johnson’sRock’ healthy. My favourite thing in the world, aside from of food on a regular basis, which is perhaps less own any scales is because I like to eat large amounts On the other hand, a big part of the reason I don’t set of scales, which I suppose in some ways is healthy. absolutely no idea how much I weigh. I do not own a I’ve spent the past decade, maybe longer, having light work anyway. See? Easy. everywhere. All of which are massive baller moves really nice expensive bootshiking and walk Brailsford-trained driver. Or just buy a pair of those my own personal tuk-tuk replete with super-fit,Dave into consideration, I’d probably just get cabs. Or have drive limit as oftenas possible. So, with all thattaken probably make it my business to be over the drink- pointing out that, if I did become rich and famous, I’d Street-grade nightmares about. It’s also worth Driving Driving is stressful. Driving around London is But this week I’ve been myfeeding mate’s cats guilty guilty to a drink driving charge. Without goalkeeper Hugo Lloris recently pleaded was disappointed when Tottenham ike all rational, responsible football fans, I driving… and himself on the stress of London Ben Machell the side bit on Ben’s Big weighs in

Jonny Cochrane; Josh Shinner; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas

Welcome to the dIscomfort zone In her first jobFarrah Storr studied the shiny, successful people around her, wondering what they had that she didn’t. Then she got it: they put themselves out there and took risks

illustartions BY Joe Mclaren

t took me many years to make sense of 2001. university (that of ‘supporting’ door bitch at a rowdy pri- It was, after all, supposed to have been my vate members’ club) became my full-time role. I did the year. It was supposed to have been the year night shift, 6pm until… well until the last punter roared the world opened up for me and I, in turn, out of the door at around 5am. By day I would intern at opened up to the world. But in the end, it glossy magazines, making tea, doing photocopies, desper- didn’t work out that way. In the end, 2001 ately trying to be liked and noticed. I scoured job boards, was a complete a***hole. newspaper ads and listened intently to conversations, I remember the day I graduated clearly: hoping to catch a scent of a job vacancy in the wind. I Royal Festival Hall. A flock of mortar boards thrown must have applied for more than 50 jobs that year. I had I high into the sky above the Thames. Our egos fat with one interview. In the quietest times at the club, usually delusions of promise. Our promise. We were kids reared between 3 and 4am, I would sit in the windowsill behind at the tail end of the Eighties, the dawning of our now reception, with its view across all of Soho. Soho was a dif- fully amped-up, neo-liberal times. ‘Work hard, be confi- ferent place then. Uber had not yet flushed out the mini dent, identify what you want and it will come your way,’ cab drivers who would patiently wait in the doorways that was the message. And it really was ‘the’ message: from ran across Old Compton and Greek Streets. ( I will forever our parents, from our schools and from our culture. be grateful to ‘Fred’, a driver who, knowing I could only I wanted to be a writer and though there was little to afford the notorious number 3 night bus home, instead suggest I had any real talent, I believed I would slip out volunteered to drive me every night for just a couple of of university and land, swan-like, into a job. I did not. pounds. His motive: only fatherly protectiveness.) There Instead the weekend job I had taken to get me through were quarrelling lovers and drug dealers with their hoods

28.09.18 es Magazine 25 held high. There were the homeless men and women, the human condition responds by being even tougher. ‘cows’ the dealers would call them, who would trail And yet… we live in a time of unprecedented coddling. behind, wide-eyed and docile. And all the while I could Ours has become a culture in which we incubate our hear the laughter and carefree chatter of successful peo- children from harm: no more conkers in the playground, ple at work in the club around me. Had they known hard- no more red pen for marking homework, no more snow- ship? Had they tasted struggle? Did they know what it felt ball fights or games of ‘tig’ or even, as I recently heard, like to be rejected again and again? In the dramatic man- ‘best friends’ at school, for fear the fall-out of breaking ner in which all twenty-somethings like to play out their up will cause too much distress. lives, I decided only I knew that. We live in a time when our universities, once insti- They say it takes a lifetime to write your tutions of challenge and discomfort, are now first book and it is true. First books are hell-bent on turning themselves into born from ideas you carry around in giant crèches with cosy ‘safe spaces’ your head for years, finessing and and lecturers who must counsel questioning over decades of lived against literature that may offend experience. In many ways the seeds or trigger feelings of discomfort. of my book, The Discomfort Zone, (So long, The Great Gatsby, with were sown all the way back in your hints of domestic abuse. 2001. It was back then, sitting on Farewell Lolita, your 400-odd that windowsill, that I became pages of paedophiliac nonsense. aware of the gulf that exists Both books I loved and studied.) between truly successful people (in We even do it to ourselves, incubat- a professional sense, no more) and eve- ing our lives and thoughts from harm ryone else. What makes them stand out? by choosing to exist in an online bubble How do they get the breaks in life? Was it where we need only ever brush up against down to luck, networking and the those whose opinions and views of castors of confidence that good “Getting comfortable with the world chime with our own. And breeding encourages? Or was it it is our loss. something else? Did failure, strug- discomfort is about getting Discomfort, whether through gle and obstacles touch their lives? comfortable with life” failure, obstacles or exposure to Did rejection? Did constraint? And diverse and sometimes uncomfort- so for the past three years I set about finding out, inter- able thought, is essential. It is the only way to stretch and viewing those at the very top of their game: gold-medal- grow. It is also the only way to see who you really are and winning athletes, Silicon Valley entrepreneurs, those at what true strength you have lined up deep within you. the summit of the worlds of dance, public life and cor- (The answer: usually much more than you first reck- porations. Those I interviewed came from different oned.) But it is also about even more than that. Getting backgrounds and varying corners of the world (though comfortable with discomfort is about getting comfortable interestingly all had known ‘struggle’ at an early age) with life. Happiness and success are fleeting, joyous and yet were all united by one thing: a ‘discomfort moments. When you get them you lap them up, but you mindset’. These were people who pushed themselves out do so knowing they don’t last for long. Most of life is the of their comfort zones day in day out. They faced strug- challenge to reach those moments, so you have to make gle head-on. They were not afraid of failure. They real- peace with that. But you also have to know that happi- ised that uncomfortable, critical feedback was friend ness can come from those very things. There is immense not foe and that great success came about because of satisfaction in pushing yourself into the face of challenge obstacles not in spite of them. and even greater joy when you realise you have the They are not alone. The brilliance we see in the world strength to do it. I am at the top of my profession now. I around us has all been touched by discomfort. Jaws’ am the editor-in-chief of a major women’s magazine. It is famous two-note film score became iconic after Steven a fine life, but it is never comfortable. Every day throws Spielberg was forced to lean on it to denote his protago- discomfort my way — the difference is I do not shield nist lurking in the water after the huge mechanical shark myself from it, I throw myself into it. he wanted to use malfunctioned at the beginning of film- Just a few months ago, as a sort of gift to myself, I ing. The multi-award winning architect Frank Gehry, joined the club where I once worked all those years ago. meanwhile, said the only time he couldn’t design a build- It’s all changed now of course, but the windowsill where ing was when he had zero constraints in which to work. I used to sit is still there, masked now behind a dining The truth is this: the human body and mind is made room table. Every time I see it, I smile. I smile knowing for discomfort. Put us under pressure and we do not, as that 2001 was the year that built me. And I smile know- the current cultural message suggests, break. We get ing that the laughter and carefree chatter of the success- stronger. Ultra-runners develop bigger hearts than your ful people all around is not because their lives have been average person while elite dancers and pianists have untouched by discomfort. But because they have. feet and fingers that can move in almost superhuman ‘The Discomfort Zone: How to Get What You Want by Living ways. When we throw ourselves into tough situations Fearlessly’ by Farrah Storr (Piatkus, £14.99) is out now

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Alamy; Getty CARD You’re a old hippies wearing lots of tie dye, Once considered the preserve of Neil Armstrong future and sees even bigger tarot is going mainstream. things things coming soon looks into its

28.09.18 28.09.18 es magazine es 29 nstage at Cornwall’s Port Eliot ‘It seems that everyone is doing it now,’ says Festival, London-based duo Mark Pilkington, co-author of Stars, Fools and Litwitchure — a ‘literary tarot and Lovers: a lavishly illustrated history of tarot, currently cabaret consultancy’ — have their being backed financially at crowdfunded publisher latest querent in hysterics. And Unbound. ‘People are both seeking to escape the hor- involuntary hysterics at that. Said rors of the endless news cycle, and also to engage in querent is author Nina Stibbe. She off-screen imaginative practices. In truth tarot has was initially reluctant to have a never really gone away as O reading done at all by such. It’s just having a visible Litwitchure — best friends Fiona phase, alongside a wider redis- Lensvelt, 31, and Jennifer covery of magic and occultism Cownie, 30 — let alone in the by a generation that grew up full glare of a festival crowd. ‘I with Harry Potter and friends. imagined it would be very seri- And because many aspects of ous and a bit occulty. I was occult history and practice, par- dreading it,’ Stibbe tells me. ticularly tarot, are so visually However, she has just, within oriented and come with off-the- minutes of stepping on stage, peg mythologies and histories, it managed to reveal the fact that makes them very appealing to she is secretly about to wed. the fashion and arts worlds, Which has come as news to a lot where most of the activity is tak- of important people in her life. ing place.’ ‘My mum burst into tears and This is certainly true. Dior, I was in a little bit of trouble with Alice + Olivia and British her, my kids and my partner designer Clio Peppiatt have afterwards,’ Stibbe says. ‘One of all produced recent fashion col- the first cards I turned over was lections inspired by tarot the two of cups, which shows a imagery. You can have your man and a woman and is to do tarot read in Selfridges. The with connection and relation- cards are all over Instagram and ships. No one knew that a week YouTube and no festival, party after the event I was getting or soirée is complete without married. My partner and I a consultation. weren’t telling anyone because Recent cultural references to we thought we’d just do it — job tarot are everywhere. Poldark’s done. But when that card came Aunt Agatha was a keen up, I became really enthusiastic student of the tarot, as was and said, “Oh my God, it’s true.” Emmerdale’s Misty Allbright. I am a bit of a blurter.’ “No one knew I was getting There is a highly sought- The whole thing, she contin- after tarot deck featuring char- ues, ‘was just magical. I think it married. But when that card came acters from Twin Peaks. And was the best literary event I’ve there are plenty of contempo- ever taken part in — captivating, up, I became really enthusiastic rary books on the subject. delightful and funny.’ and said, ‘Oh my God, it’s true’” In July, Harper Thorsons Stibbe is not alone in chang- published Modern Day Tarot ing her opinion of tarot. It is undergoing a major revival. Play by Emma Toynbee (‘a guide to optimising Sales of tarot cards in general are reportedly at their and authenticating our finest and most precious highest level for 50 years. Treadwell’s, the occult book- resource… the conscious human mind’). In June, nov- shop in Bloomsbury, has seen a 50 per cent increase in elist David Keenan published experimental novella To just the past two years and around half of the store’s Run Wild in It, accompanied by its own specially customers are under 30 — compared with just 25 per designed deck. cent in 2010. Although some have claimed it has ancient Egyptian ‘Sales of tarot products in general are the best we origins or linked it to the Kabbalah, most historians have ever experienced,’ says a company spokeswoman. date tarot back to 15th-century Italy, where it is ‘Last year was our best year ever and so far this year is thought to have been some form of game before being even better. I think part of the reason is we have found used for fortune-telling. A deck contains 78 cards, exciting new artists to work with. Another factor is that divided into two packs. The Minor Arcana resembles tarot has become very mainstream. You can hardly pick regular playing cards and has four suits; swords, wands, up a magazine or watch a show without seeing some cups and pentacles. The 22 cards of the Major Arcana reference to tarot.’ are numbered and feature strange and striking symbols

30 es magazine 28.09.18

such as the Tower, the Hanged Man and Death (card to have at festivals and parties but, obviously, if some- number 13, of course). one is genuinely at a crossroads in their life, a private ‘Most people will put the Fool at the start and the reading is more appropriate.’ World at the end but because his number is 0, the Fool But why the sudden peak in interest? Pilger technically sits anywhere in the deck,’ explains Lensvelt. believes the surge in popularity may be linked to ‘The Major Arcana can be viewed as a narra- increased interest in feminism. ‘Reading the tarot is a tive, telling the story of the Fool’s very intuitive process and intuition, as opposed to rea- journey from ignorance to enlight- son, has always been aligned enment, overcoming obstacles with the feminine,’ she says. and diversions and learning ‘Obviously that is problematic lessons along the way.’ but there is something about For a reading, a number knowing intuitively, which I of cards are selected at think has been oppressed random and then laid out through patriarchy and struc- in a pattern — there are tures of male domination. The top deck: several types of ‘spreads’ — Jennifer whole process of learning tarot and the reader tells the Cownie, left, was, for me, about strengthen- and fiona ‘querent’ or questioner what Lensvelt tHe COnSULtAnCY ing and learning to trust my they mean and how they might Litwitchure intuition. I see tarot as a crea- (litwitchure.com) relate to their life. Many of tive tool rather than a means of today’s practitioners say the forecasting the future.’ Serpentfire cards are less a system of divina- tarot, £45, at For Daisy Waugh, tarot tion than a therapeutic tool. goop.com reader and, writing as EV Harte, ‘I’m definitely not a fortune the author of two novels teller and the tarot is not some DS & DUrgA featuring tarot-reading ama- Spirit Lamp supernatural fortune-telling candle, £58, at teur sleuth Dolly Greene, the device which will reveal when libertylondon.com cards are ‘a gateway to an under- you’re going to meet a tall, hand- standing of our situation, our some stranger,’ says Lensvelt. place in the universe’. ‘When I’m reading the cards, it’s She contrasts the cards with a little bit like a Rorschach test the ‘endless conveyor belt of where I’m presenting images and glibness and certainty that is then seeing how the querent social media’. reacts to them. I tell them what To Run Wild In ‘What tarot does is the oppo- those signs and symbols are, It, £7.99 (rough incense site,’ she says. ‘It throws open tradebooks.com) holder, £23.50 what they mean to me and it is (conranshop.co.uk) the doors and says, “Listen, then up to them to interpret there is so much that we don’t them as they relate to their own know so let’s just, for a moment, life. It’s a little bit like a sort “Tarot is not some supernatural pause and acknowledge that we of mindfulness.’ don’t know.”’ There are variations in the fortune-telling device which will Not everyone, however, is a tarot decks people use and a huge card-carrying believer. Author number of different designs. ‘I reveal when you’re going to meet and journalist Lucy Mangan most commonly use the Rider- a tall, handsome stranger” was another person to get the Waite-Smith deck,’ Lensvelt aformentioned Litwitchure continues, referring to perhaps the most famous tarot treatment at Port Eliot in July. She dismisses the deck. ‘[This set is] tarot 101 and a lot of people learn to notion that a reading can provide a querent with read the cards using them. But my current favourite any special insight into their life, beyond that afforded deck is the Spolia, created by author Jessa Crispin and by the opportunity to talk about oneself to a sympa- artist Jen May.’ thetic listener. Novelist and art critic Zoe Pilger, meanwhile, first ‘Of course it can’t,’ she says. ‘It’s nonsense but it is had a reading in 2014 and was so fascinated by the fun and it’s very theatrical and therefore great for an imagery of the cards that she trained how to read them. audience. At present everyone is at great pains to ‘What you are seeing in the tarot deck is a series of emphasise that it’s about storytelling and narrative archetypes representing basic human experiences, rather than predicting the future. But my own predic- which most people at one time or another will come tion is that we’re soon going to start seeing people say- across,’ she enthuses. ‘The tarot shows you a way of ing, “Well, perhaps there is something supernatural explaining your own experience through myth, which going on.”’ is incredibly powerful. There are different levels at Maybe. Or maybe not. Time — and maybe tarot — which you can engage with it. It can be something fun will tell.

28.09.18 es magazine 33 on thE

riThey are treadingSE the boards of the capital, infiltrating Hollywood blockbusters and starring in the most talked about shows on TV. Time to get to know these faces before everyone else does

PhotograPhS BY EDD HORDER StYlED BY JESSICA SkEEtE-CROSS worDS BY DIpAl ACHARyA, nICk CuRtIS, HAmISH mACbAIn & fRAnkIE mcCOy

34 ES mAgAzInE 28.09.18 From left, Joivan Wade wears Marni shirt, £380; jeans, £530 (marni.com). Lily newmark wears DE La VaLi dress, £650 (delavali.com). Viveik Kalra wears LOEWE shirt, POa (loewe.com). aCnE stuDiOs trousers, £210, at mrporter.com

Lily Newmark ‘My acting hero? Oh it has to be Danny DeVito,’ explains Lily Newmark without a trace of irony. ‘People expect a lot from what you look like and I think he goes beyond. He embraces his image and does what he loves regardless of what people project on him.’ It’s been a busy year for Londoner Newmark. She’s racked up cameo credits in Solo: A Star Wars Story, the upcoming Les Misérables mini- series on the Beeb and taken the lead in the BFI-funded indie flick,Pin Cushion. There’s also the Sky comic thriller Joivan Wade Temple, alongside Mark Strong, out Viveik Kalra Throw a simple, ‘What’s going on with next year. ‘It’s not a tag line that you hear for many you right now?’ at 25-year-old Joivan Acting has always been in Newmark’s other things,’ says Viveik Kalra of his Wade and you’ll get a barrage of blood (she cites her aunt, stage and first-ever film. ‘I mean: “In the 1980s, a impressive-sounding projects back. screen actress Rose Keegan, as a big Pakistani boy from Luton falls in love There’s the fourth instalment in The influence) and she honed her craft at with the music of Bruce Springsteen.”’ Purge franchise — The First Purge — in East 15, the Essex conservatoire that Maybe so, but Blinded by the Light — which he stars. There’s the role of Cyborg grew out of the work of Joan Littlewood adapted from a 2007 memoir by Sarfraz in the latest DC Comics show, Doom — ‘a kind of a hippie acting school’. Manzoor and taking its title from a Patrol, and his London-rap battle film Her CV might be growing quietly, Springsteen song — looks set to catapult VS, out next month. There’s part three of but the dream role? ‘I’d love to do a big him to next level stardom when it is his musically narrated web series, Shiro’s fantasy role. I hear that they’re doing a released next year. Born and raised in Story, which ‘has blown up all over the Lord of the Rings TV franchise, so I Windsor (he still lives there with his par- internet, and taken youth culture by wouldn’t mind involving myself in that. ents), Kalra, 20, has only been acting storm’. There’s the ‘couple of development I read Tolkien growing up, so I can ‘for about a year now’. But his screen deals for shows I’m creating’. And proba- watch the films without sound and kind debut, in ITV’s Next of Kin, was enough bly not last, certainly not least, there’s his of do the scripts verbatim.’ to prompt Bend it Like Beckham director phenomenally successful company The Liv Tyler, Cate Blanchett — and now, Gurinder Chadha (‘if you’re British- Wall of Comedy — ‘we manage talent, Lily Newmark? You heard it here first. Asian, you’re a big fan of hers’) to ask create content with different influencers’ What’s the soundtrack to your life? him to audition for what she calls a ‘spir- — which he’s taking to the US. ‘“Unf***theworld” by Angel Olsen.’ DA itual sequel’ to her breakthrough film. To call Bromley’s own Wade ambi- Kalra had never listened to Springsteen tious would be a serious understatement. before landing the part, preferring A Brit School graduate (‘a real founda- ‘chart stuff. And then as soon as I got tion for me’) and an EastEnders/Doctor into Bruce, I couldn’t listen to anything Who alumnus, he has his sights set on else. I tried to listen to Top 40 music, jack-of-all-trades mega-stardom. ‘I love and… It felt almost meaningless after acting, I love directing, I love writing, I listening to Bruce.’ love producing, I love creating,’ he says, While Kalra may not yet have seen the again barely pausing for breath. ‘The finished film — ‘I only want to watch it biggest thing is being a man of your own once, just before it comes out’ — time, combining craft with the graft, Springsteen has. ‘It was shown to him the creating your own opportunities. It other day.’ And? ‘I’ve heard good things.’ started with Mandem on the Wall, my Has it — and therefore he — been rubber- online series years ago, and now it’s just stamped by The Boss? ‘Yeah, basically!’ doing the same thing, but on a much What got you into acting? ‘To be bigger scale.’ totally honest, it was watching Jack and How often do you get stopped in the the Beanstalk at panto. Right at the end street? ‘A lot. I think seeing someone go COS dress, £125 of it they were chucking chocolates at (cosstores.com). from a YouTube series to a Hollywood MarqueS’alMeida us. I thought, “That’s something I’d be film spurs people on.’HM blouse, POa willing to do…”’ HM (marquesalmeida.com)

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NATASHA ZINKO blazer, £350; trousers, £285 (020 7499 5925). Self pOrTrAIT shoes “people are £330, at selfridges.com lIBrA chair, £1,249 now more (thelibracompany.co.uk) willing to meet me, rather than me having to convince people that i’m able to do a role”

Jodie Comer Unless you are one of those people still shouting ‘No spoilers!’ across the office whenever someone starts discussing the Bodyguard ending, you will already be familiar with Jodie Comer, via her lead role in the magnificentKilling Eve. The UK, though, is playing catch-up. The first eight episodes aired in the US in April, where it inspired crazy levels of fan devotion, and Comer is currently filming season two. ‘It’s a bit of a strange one because it really took off in the States, but I’ve not been there to witness it,’ says Comer, 25, who was instead at home in Liverpool, where she still lives with her parents. ‘Sandra [Oh, her co-star] lives in LA, so she’s kind of been telling me all about it, how well it’s gone down.’ Is she prepared for the level of stardom that being on such a huge hit can bring? ‘You know, I’ve seen it with Sandra, being around Sandra, where it is all the time. And it can be quite intense. But I think there’s probably a way of han- dling it. And also embracing it. What I’ve learnt is to try not to be daunted by everything, take it when it comes.’ And of course, Killing Eve is already helping her, career-wise. ‘I think people are now more willing — and wanting — to meet me, rather than me having to convince people that I’m able to do a role. That’s definitely a little shift that I’ve sensed. But I’m by no means, you know, knocking back the offers! There’s still a lot more work to do.’ Was it always acting you wanted to do? ‘I used to do singing, dancing and acting, but as I got older, I realised acting was what I enjoyed. Plus I used to be really small, and then I grew lanky and completely lost all my rhythm.’ HM

28.09.18 es magazine 39 ALEXACHUNG dress, £325 (alexachung.com)

“I was obsessed wIth gay Icons lIke bette MIdler and lIza MInnellI”

Nicola Coughlan ‘I’m the youngest of four and the youngest is always the weird one,’ laughs Nicola Coughlan, 31. The Irish actress grew up watching musicals such as Thoroughly Modern Millie and The Wizard of Oz (‘every single day’) and was ‘obsessed with gay icons like Bette Midler and Liza Minnelli’. Not that her path to the spotlight has been plain sailing. After university in Galway, drama school and a masters at the Royal Birmingham Conservatoire, ‘I only had two acting jobs between 2011 and 2015’, she winces. It was while she was back in Galway working at an optician’s, living off Super Noodles and about to give up that she saw the Old Vic tweet about an open call for Jess and Joe Forever. She won the part and a plum role in C4’s Derry Girls swiftly fol- lowed — the next series starts filming in October. She has also just finished a masterful turn opposite Lia Williams in the Donmar’sThe Prime of Miss Jean Brodie, where she learned her accent from a Scottish sketch comedy about a ghost on YouTube with the, ahem, haunting line, ‘Back off you spooky bitch!’ What is your dream role? ‘Sally Bowles in Cabaret. I want to see a grimy, modern version that really captures Berlin. And obviously her hair is iconic.’ FM

40 es magazine 28.09.18 Clothes, Percelle Ascott Ascott’s own Percelle Ascott is the kind of hugely ambitious and impressive 25-year-old who makes the rest of us look like slackers. As Mowgli in his first school play at the age of 11, the Zimbabwe-born actor would recite the lines of any other character who’d forgotten them; after finishing at the Brit School at 16, he decided that rather than waste money on drama school or university, he would just start auditioning. He has never stopped hustling: he is starring as Harry in Netflix’sThe Innocents (a sort of Stranger Things 2.0 but using shape-shifting to talk about identity), a part he first found out about by turning up to a Netflix convention and chatting to the director outside about football. As if that wasn’t enough, Ascott also has his own hugely successful online TV net- work, The Wall of Comedy, run with his ‘best friend and business partner’ Joivan Wade (who you will recognise from previous pages). Here they commission shows and pro- duce short films and mini series for the 16-24-year-olds who get all their content online. The aim is to turn it into the next Netflix, but for grassroots talent discovered on social media: ‘as opposed to complaining about lack of opportunities, it’s about how we can create the solutions.’ What do you do in your downtime? ‘I recently picked up a guitar — I’m really bad right now but I can play “Wonderwall”. Such a cliché! And I’m always watching Netflix, watching everything.’ FM

TIBI blazer, £635; trousers, £365 (tibi.com). SUNSPEL tank top, £32 (sunspel.com). Erin Doherty mAx mArA shoes, £490 (maxmara.com) Devotees of The Old Vic are familiar with Erin Doherty’s ability to command a stage. Last year the Crawley-born 26-year-old held her own against Rhys Ifans in A Christmas Carol and played the demanding lead role in The Divide, Alan Ayckbourn’s dystopian, five-hour-long theatre piece. ‘It was seven hours when we did it in Edinburgh,’ she says. ‘I don’t know how I managed it.’ Following her parents’ split when she was four, Doherty took up acting and football. Acting won, and after studying at Bristol Old Vic Theatre School she worked for Headlong Theatre, at the Royal Court, and starred in the one-woman show about an activist killed by an Israeli bulldozer, My Name is Rachel Corrie, at the Young Vic. There was also the obligatory part as a troubled mum in Call the Midwife, ‘but I have basically made a living from theatre and haven’t had to do anything else, which is just insane and absurd’. Now, she is set to play Princess Anne along- side Helena Bonham Carter and Olivia Colman in the third season of The Crown. ‘I fall in love with all the characters I play and I love how strong and how honest Princess Anne is,’ Doherty says. ‘She doesn’t think of herself as a princess; she has just found herself in this situation. I feel the same [about my career], so I find it really easy to get into her head.’ What is your oddest research technique? ‘I looked up the Chinese zodiac signs for the whole royal family. Princess Anne is a metal tiger.’ NC

28.09.18 es magazine 41 ISA ARFEN Patsy Ferran top, £490, Patsy Ferran talks a million miles a minute. Whether it’s the philosophical conundrum at matches fashion.com. at the heart of Tennessee Williams’s Summer and Smoke (‘whether you believe in the MAJE jeans, flesh or the soul’) or the relative merits of the Kardashian sisters (‘I prefer Khloé best £185 (maje.com) — she’s feisty but you can really tell she cares about her sisters’), she takes to every subject with such warmth that it’s hard not to be charmed. The 28-year-old, Rada-trained actress has been the talk of the town since playing girl-next-door Alma Winemiller in a production of the Williams play at the Almeida earlier this year. Despite it being distilled down to ‘just a conversation between two people’, the show won over critics and will transfer to the Duke of York’s Theatre in November. Born in Valencia and brought up in Weybridge, it was after seeing a produc- tion of Coram Boy at the National (‘it was incredibly magical. The first time I felt encouraged to explore the theatre’) that she first caught the acting bug. A stint study- ing drama at Birmingham University — and signing up to ‘at least six different am- dram clubs’ — led her to Rada and her first proper West End role as a comedy maid in Blithe Spirit, opposite Angela Lansbury. Her Alma in Summer and Smoke might be a very serious character (‘she basically speaks non-stop for three hours’) but Ferran is still partial to comedy. Ask her what her party trick is and she replies, with a spritely grin: ‘I do a mean Mr Bean impression.’ Who is your acting hero? ‘Oh, so old-school — Cary Grant.’ DA

CULT GAIA top, £340, at brownsfashion.com. MAJE jeans, £185 (maje.com). MAx MARA Molly Windsor shoes, £490 (maxmara.com) ‘Anyone who says they know what they want to LIBRA chair, £525 do — they’re lying,’ laughs Molly Windsor. ‘But (thelibracompany.co.uk) if I can get away with acting for the foreseeable future, then I will.’ It’s odds on that the Nottingham-based 21-year-old will very much get away with the whole acting thing: after all, she was cast in Channel 4’s The Unloved at the age of 11 and hasn’t stopped since. She was a Bafta breakthrough winner in 2017, which enabled her to meet her heroines, such as Olivia Colman and Felicity Jones. Then, at this year’s Baftas, she took home the best actress award for her performance in BBC’s Three Girls, the harrowing drama based on the Rochdale grooming scandal. Not that it went to her head — Windsor still lives at home in Nottingham, ‘doing the rounds’ of various family members in her spare time with her golden retriever, Drummer. Look out for her next in ITV’s Cheat, a psychological thriller in which she stars as a university student accused of, yes, cheating in her dissertation. Where were you when you found out you’d won the Bafta breakthrough? ‘I was on set on the moors, smelly and tired, when I got this sparkly, dreamy Baftas call. I had to be like, “Oh that’s amazing!” — then immediately get back to work and be like, where’s my donkey?’ FM

“I was on set on the moors, smelly and tIred, when I got thIs sparkly, dreamy Baftas call”

42 es magazine 28.09.18 MACKINTOSH coat, £995 (mackintosh.com). BOSS shirt, £89 (boss.com). CARHARTT jumper, £95 (carhartt-wip.com)

“I’ve been watchIng a lot of old vIctorIa wood — re-runs of ‘dInnerladIes’”

John McCrea The breakout star of joyous drag musical Everybody’s Talking About Jamie is only here because as a seven-year-old he was ‘naughty — like, really naughty’. Exasperated teachers suggested that John McCrea try drama to burn off energy; after one session, he demanded to be sent off to auditions forChitty Chitty Bang Bang in the West End. He got a part and the rest is history. Now 25 and living in Hackney, McCrea is more about ‘new writing’ than Shakespeare — hence his appearance in last year’s critically adored filmGod’s Own Country and a starring role in Everybody’s Talking About Jamie, which was nominated for five Olivier Awards this year. Up next? It’s an as yet unannounced ‘genreless’ detective drama on BBC1 and Netflix. What do you watch on telly? ‘I can’t really concentrate on new series when I’m in the middle of a run, so I’ve been watching a lot of old Victoria Wood — re-runs of Dinnerladies.’ FM

28.09.18 es magazine 43

“Old-fashiOned underwear keeps yOu very much in the mindset Of the 1940s”

SIMONE ROCHA dress, £1,100, at mytheresa.com. Jewellery, Appleton’s own

Emma Appleton Emma Appleton makes it sound easy. The 26-year-old grew up in Oxfordshire, the daughter of a nurse and an architect, left school at 18 and started modelling for brands such as Victoria Beckham, The Kooples and Fred Perry. ‘I did that for eight years, got an audition through my modelling agent for a short film calledDreamlands , got an agent from that, got a job, and it all fell into place,’ she says. That first paying job was inClique last year, BBC3’s bitchy-freshers drama, playing Fay, who died in the first episode — ‘but they wrote in some flashbacks for me’ — and then she was inThe End of the F***ing World ‘for about a second’. She clearly has something though, as she was cast from this as the lead in Channel 4’s Jerusalem, the new project from Boardwalk Empire’s Bash (it’s short for Bathsheba) Doran. ‘It’s a political spy thriller and I play Feef, a British civil serv- ant who agrees to spy on her government for the Americans in the aftermath of the Second World War,’ she says. ‘It’s really intense, intricate, fast-paced and fun.’ The story involves a romance with Luke Treadaway’s character, and a deep attention to period costume detail: ‘Old-fashioned underwear keeps you very much in the mindset of the 1940s.’ How many tattoos do you have? ‘Seven, including a moon, an elephant, a diamond and the word “life”. I did one, a small cross, myself. A tattooist friend gave me a sterilised needle and a pot of ink. You just stick and poke.’ NC

28.09.18 es magazine 45

“We should be thinking of musicals as plays With added music, plays With added effort!”

APC jumper, £185 (apc.fr). PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND kilt, £695 (pringle scotland.com). Socks and shoes, Hoyle’s own. LIBRA chair, as before

Hair and make-up by Nicky Tavilla at Terri Manduca Agency using Hourglass Cosmetics and Tigi Copyright Care. Photographer’s assistant: Alaric Macdonald

Izuka Hoyle Edinburgh-born Izuka Hoyle came to acting late — she was all about the singing until some friends convinced her to go to weekend youth theatre. ‘And I just really loved it. Everything fell into place at that point.’ She left school at 16 and, Dick Whittington-style, moved down to London to follow her dreams at Chiswick’s ArtsEd. Since then, the 22-year-old’s all-singing, all-dancing abilities have won her the role of Emily Davison in The Old Vic’s suffragette musicalSylvia , which ‘stands for everything I think I’m fighting for in this industry. Coming up in this newer generation, there’s a lot of change happening, especially for women and for BAME actors. I am responsible for telling these stories.’ Unfortunately the production had to close at the preview stage after being dogged by cast illnesses — Hoyle herself pulled out due to laryngitis. Now living in Marble Arch with seven housemates (all ‘muggles’ as opposed to actors) and a dog called Suji, catch her next in Josie Rourke’s epic historical drama, Mary Queen of Scots, in which she plays Mary Seton, courtier to Saoirse Ronan’s eponymous, iconic protagonist. Why don’t people take musicals as seriously as theatre? ‘Musical theatre comes with a stigma and stereotype, you know — the whole jazz hands thing and the idea that it’s just dancers trying to act. We should be thinking of them as plays with added music, plays with added effort!’FM

28.09.18 es magazine 47

beauty

by ROSE bEER Objects Of Desire Autumn’s need-to-know cult beauty buys

Clockwise from left, IT COSMETICS CC+ Oil-Free Matte cream, £30 (itcosmetics.co.uk). OLAY Regenerist Whip moisturiser, £34.99, at boots.com. ELIZABETH ARDEN Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, £42 (elizabetharden.co.uk). McQuEEN Celtic Rose eau de parfum, £175, at harrods. com. CHANEL Rouge Allure Liquid Powder lipstick in evocation, £31 (chanel.com)

PENTREATH HALL plaster casts, from £50 (pentreath-hall.com)

PHOtOGRaPH by adam GOOdisOn styLed by LiLy wORcesteR 28.09.18 ES magazinE 49 probiotics such as few weeks, gradually introduce daily multi-vitamin (£28). sources. beneficial to thebody as thosefrom wholefood food. Synthetically produced vitamins aren’t as resembles where vitamins come from — that’s to say, 50 50 understands what it’s doing and cares for its customers. Thiswarnings. shows that the manufacturer and hidden sugars and that the labelling flagsany binders such as magnesium stearate, titanium dioxide i utilised by the body compared with magnesium citrate. example, contain magnesium oxide, which is poorly you if the supplement is of a good standard. Some, for which of the supplements have made a difference to you. following this slow regimen, it allows you to gauge if and — every gland in the body has a vitamin D receptor). cell mutation, and vitamin D3 (perhaps turmeric, to fight and/or other supplements victoriahealth.com) ND (£19.50; Mega Probiotic Science Of Vermont can we leave? Which vitamins and supplements should we take and which beauty plenty ofplenty zzzzzz. Somnex Somnex is the world’s sleep firstshow. dedicated At this expect three-day extravaganza n addition, check that the supplement is not full of napping workshops, specialist massages plus private And to massages access specialist experts. industry napping workshops, of victoriahealth.com, explains how to supplement well a a es magazine es fter taking a multi-vitamin for a lways read the ingredients carefully; this will tell i recommend ON THE SOAPBOX Shabir Shabir Daya Tickets £20. Tickets 12-14£20. The Oct. Old Truman Brewery, E1 (somnexshow.com) I

exists. Seek out one that closely insurance policy in case a deficiency within the body. Think of it as an between food and a possible deficiency 28.09.18 Food

consider it as bridging the gap firstpoint ofcall and believe that a multivitamin is the Nature’s Way Headspace , pharmacist and co-founder

a live! i would b y Rivkin her brows Annabel a boost gives

L You beauty! Blink Blink Brow Bar and Conceal Lift, £19 (bbb-london.com) circle. Now pass that espresso… feel less knackered. scrambled. yourself suddenly look alert even when you’re a bit dot some through the inner corner of the eyes and see really hard to up.f*** Truly. The intermediate step is to adds real dynamism — like a micro eye lift. eyebrow and blended with the tiny brush (or a finger) brows and open up your eyes. Drawn on just under the is a matte, slanted pencil that allows you to lift your architecture of your face. you look younger, better-rested and improve the threaders around. without looking like you are wearing make-up. there are cunning tricks you can do around the eyes romantically rogered on (or in? or by?) Lake Como. make you look as though you’ve just returned from being y seconds. Charlotte Tilbury’s Unisex (£32), for example, can pep up a weary complexion in facials, we need shortcuts. Clarins if we look exhausted, then that’s the firstimpression. like about wrinkles and spots, bloating and dullness, but energises, it drains and pollutes. We can kvetch all we ear b Short of detoxes, falling in love and back-to-back link link h ydrating Moisturiser (£35) has the power to b city life can do that. Much as it inspires and we are 18 or 88 — that’s the issue. Looking dreary and worn-down — whether ooking tired is the battle, really. row b ecause looking less knackered makes you b ars are, to my mind, the best drop-in a a nd decent eyebrows will make nd suddenly you’re in a virtuous bbb ’s new Conceal and Lift b h eauty Flash ealthy Glow i sn’t it? b a ecause nd it’s b alm alm a

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Josh Shinner; Natasha Pszenicki; Alamy; Shutterstock

The bold and the beautiful: Matty Bovan’s SS19 show

LFW has never been a shrinking violet but this season’s event was breathtakingly bolder (see Matty Bovan, above), busier and more buzzing than ever. It was also a season of BURBERRY rsts, from Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry GET THE NEW debut to Nicholas LONDON LOOK Kirkwood’s rst show Burberry (scream!). It was new, The LFW it was fresh and it was an on home turf, coupled incredible journey through the with some milestone future of luxury. The collection anniversaries as the had something for everyone, from the posh mother in plisse Victoria Beckham and pleats and a headscarf to the Mary Katrantzou daughter who raves in a cow download From megawatt gowns to scene- labels turned . print mini and sweater, and What’s more, the everyone in between. Sold! stealing sneakers and the Shipping runways delivered both Forecast soundtracking the season the avant-garde and PREEN ahead, LFW had it all and more. the oh-so-wearable. The ES Magazine team reports Bring on SS.

THE POLITICS OF FASHION On the same day that Theresa May gathered fashion industry leaders (Christopher Kane, Dame Anna Wintour and Sam Cam included) at a Downing Street reception to recognise the rag trade’s GET FRECKED bn contribution to the Having a face full of economy, employment of freckles has never been more than , people and London as home to the more fashionable. Take Christopher Kane, note of Val Garland’s world’s  nest fashion Samantha Cameron and modern make-up look at colleges, Richard Quinn Tammy Kane at No 10 the Preen by Thornton made his own statement Bregazzi show. By dabbing about the state of our a stippled sponge across arts education. His SS the cheeks and over the show notes (right) read: nose using MAC’s Conceal ‘There has been a  per cent and Correct Palette, drop in arts GCSE entries Garland was able to create Maeva Marshall between  and ,’ a highly freckled has no need to which he further highlighted outdoorsy look. Freckles fake it: those by inviting art pupils from were also seen drawn gorgeous freckles London state schools to his are all natural RICHARD QUINN show and urging guests to on some faces using #crushincoming eyebrow pens at write to MPs… or Instagram,

JasonGettyLloyd-Evans; Roland Mouret. HOUSE OF HOLLAND as the case may be.

28.09.18 ES MAGAZINE 53

Backstage at Full Alexachung using Suqqu SaturatioN products Georgia May Jagger (left centre) donned a shocking pink up-do to strut her stuff down the Ashley Williams runway to the sound of Enya. She was not the only one. Dree Hemingway (far left) over on the Matty Bovan catwalk was also working a fuschia lid, while in the front row at House of Holland we saw rising R&B star Bree Runway in full FACE GYM #bluehairdontcare glory. An unprecedented number of make-up artists were giving models a thorough pre- show facial massage — omoRovICZA because without one, it Illuminating is nigh-on impossible to moisturiser, as used at Emilia get that fresh-faced Wickstead, £85 glow every designer is

AN (omorovicza.com) after. Make-up artist

ov ADOPT

B Joey Choy gives us her top tips: NOW 1. Using your fingers, rub in circular

tty Saggy ankle A true motions just above the eyebrow area

m stocking socks S blue: and towards the temple — m Bree at Erdem. Once these are the lymphatic IA Runway sad, now super.

ll drainage points.

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y your hands down the side E of the face to the neck. hl It’s important to always AS work down as this action will drain the toxins. 3. Work your fingers under the cheekbone and up towards the ears before moving down the m neck — this will lift the face and help define the cheekbones. SCENE SEttErS ERDE 4. Using the tips of your fingers, Taking on Paris’s event extravaganzas, lightly tap under the eye — this will last week London put on a pretty depuff the eye area and drain the smashing show. Portobello Road was excess water and toxins as well as trending, from Rixo’s fruity pop-up to wake up the skin (and the model). Molly Goddard’s market stall street scene, while Alexa Chung had us peeping through a wooden maze that recalled a retro airport for her ‘AC World Travel Inc’ presentation. Then there was Nicholas Kirkwood’s LFW debut with a subversive subterranean tableau. Titled ‘Resistance’, the digitally charged concept was themed around a dystopian narrative that included a violent dictatorial coup and an underground freedom force, aka ‘NK19’, led by activist/friend Rose McGowan and starring some pretty fierce footwear.

Super trooper: Nicholas Kirkwood

ALICE’S GANG Backstage at Temperley London we were met with a sea of famous faces of all ages ready to take on the runway, from Game of Thrones star Nathalie Emmanuel to Helen McCrory and singer Corinne Bailey Rae. ‘Darling’ Charlotte Tilbury, in all her vampy glory, headed up make-up, while the never off duty Ellen von Unwerth snapped a heavily-pregnant Arizona Muse before both headed for the catwalk. A true family affair, with Temperley herself seeming Set your stall: molly remarkably relaxed as she cuddled up to her son, before her mum

DarioPellegrino/Suqqu; Getty; ShaunJamesRex;Cox Goddard and, top, Rixo also walked the show.

28.09.18 es magazine 55

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Bright idea: Imitation game: Yana Peel Alexa Chung, left, and Miuccia Prada

LOOK OUT ...for make-up legend Val Garland’s new book, Validate, featuring insider Leigh-Anne quotes and anecdotes from Pinnock and her 30-year career. Here Stefflon Don she is backstage clutching a light up LFW copy with Sam McKnight. £35 (laurenceking.com) FRONT ROW FluORO CAP top, Brighter than the camera flashbulbs £265, at were the life-affirming pops of acid browns yellow, neon pink and Ninja Turtle Nailing it fashion.com. green spotted bench-side from Kane Given Alexa Chung’s high fashion ambitions POPPY to Kirkwood. Get the Day-Glo look. LISSIMAN she’s certainly looking the part, channelling sunglasses, design icon Miuccia Prada. £85, at net-a- PRADA shoes, £610, at porter.com matchesfashion.com THE RISE AND RISE OF THE BIG BROW THE cHIc When Christopher SNEAk Bailey cast Cara Slimline yet chunky, Delevingne in downtown but high-end Burberry’s SS11 — everyone’s gramming campaign we all about the JW ceremonially threw Anderson x Converse away our tweezers: collaboration, with its the tenure of the flash of royal blue. Lace bushy brow was up to the top and tie upon us. Seven bow, no socks allowed. years on and make-up artists are still waxing IT’S THE BALM lyrical over the JW ANDERSON Sheer balmy textures are what fuller, boyish- we should all opt for, explains style brow. Take make-up artist Ciara O’Shea Miranda Joyce’s backstage at Eudon Choi MAY bushy beauties at LORD & BERRY (above): ‘They’re always going LINDSTROM both Margaret Lip Oil Potion to make the skin sing no matter The Youth Howell and Brow beaters: Treatment, as what.’ Mac’s SS19 lip palette Dew Balancing Roksanda, and from top, at used on eyelids (above right), coming soon, Facial Serum, Lucia Pieroni’s at Christopher Christopher CONVERSE X at Emilia as used at Kane; Sophia Wickstead, does just that. Wipe the natural Mother of Kane. And our latest style Hadjipanteli JW ANDERSON tones across the eyelids, cheeks crush, Sophia Hadjipanteli, (j-w-anderson.com) £16, at look Pearl, £124, at at Roland fantastic.com and lips for balm-bastic effect. spacenk.com with her beautiful unibrow. Mouret

Out of the bag We couldn’t help but love the high-end leather versions of drawstring duster bags (far left) that added a touch of tongue- in-cheek humour to Victoria

VICTORIA BECKHAM Beckham’s SS19 accessories arsenal. Meantime, drop in to her Dover Street store for one of VB’s Juergen Teller shopping bag T-shirts that recall her Ps... memorable 2008 Marc Jacobs Newest addition to the photographers’ pit campaign. #Cultcrush — Brooklyn Beckham. Sure it was at his VICTORIA BECKHAM T-shirt, £115, mum’s show but he was also seen street-

Yannis Vlamos/Indigital; Yannis Getty; Rex 36 Dover Street (victoriabeckham.com) style snapping outside the events.

28.09.18 es magazine 59

Two for Get ahead The road Offering you a bold new headset are Talk about practical: Stephen Jones’s rose trellis hair Burberry’s bike chain pieces at Matty Bovan, Pam Hogg’s belts and passport hair-raising tulle headgear, Erdem’s (UK, obvs) neckpieces veiled hats and Simone Rocha’s become the SS19 similarly concealed hat towers. essentials for the The hats have it! on-the-go Londoner. 1

Throwback style: the moodboard backstage at Emilia Wickstead

TaKe a Bow d Swoon. We had major hair envy at the Emilia Wickstead show. CKSTEA

Here’s how to get the look: i 1. Start by wetting the hair A W slightly with Aveda i Thickening Tonic (£22). L mi

2. Blow-dry the hair back, E using a round Mason 2 Pearson brush (£80). 3. Spritz some hairspray on your brush and pull hair into a ponytail to be in line with your jaw bone and tie with a black elastic. 4. Use a skinny brush and hairspray to stick any stray hairs to the head. Blitz with a hairdryer to seal. 5. Wrap a strip hair extension around the ponytail — American Dream Top hats: clockwise Hair Extensions are from top, designs at brilliant and are matty Bovan; Simone rocha; ryan Lo; Pam held in place with bobby pins. Hogg; Erdem 6. Cut the extended hair in a straight line roughly two inches below the shoulders. 7. Finish with a bow — or two. L’OrÉAL PrOFESSiOnnEL infinium Pure hairspray, from £11.65, at lookfantastic.com

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28.09.18 es magazine 61 Heritage tweed Heritage 62 62 ofsalon choice. it made editors’ has the beauty aesthetic clean pared-back — to DryBy head its look, by White To OPI. get a similar Brilliant using set at a diagonal white lines two with parallel nail a Jenny created Draper technician House of where nail lead Holland, include bandwagon the less-is-more on to jumping also Brands chic minimal’. ‘We’ve a seen move away towards from “street” show.at the Halpern design her barely-there when discussing Newman doyenne Marian nail leading is chic,’ art proclaims nail ‘Minimalist THE NAILMINIMAL

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ES Magazine team with Molly Goddard London London Fashion Week. complimentary cars at our latest #lazyhack. Wheely provided the The chauffeur app The Wheely app is THE THE APP of your life.

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David Yeo; illustration by Jonathan Calugi @ Machas progress. But desire is a strange thing. And and Smoking Goat — is an inarguable mark of regionality popularised by the likes of Som Saa L Thai fare andpleasures guilty +Deum at Kin Jimi Famurewa JIMI EATS WORLD FEAST was nicely busy with a certain stripe of o ce books, Buddha statues and painted food tins. It circular pillows and a decorative sprinkle of cook space with a little bar, benches hung with pretty there’s a converted front room vibe to a bright Friday lunch. Beyond a dark green exterior on meeting my old mate Charlie there for a modernised homeliness tallies with what I found the Thai food they grew up eating. with the aim of presenting in a contemporaryinterior wayand pared back the novella-length menu name (‘eat and drink’ in Thai), simpli ed the Roselyn and Shakris. They have given it that new operator Suchard Inngern’s three kids: Bank, Suchard, it has been taken over by previous owner- poles. Formerly known as the more traditional Bridge, plants a ag in the territory between these on the edge of Bermondsey Street near London dunked in store-bought sweet chilli sauce. and maybe some crisp, springMSG-laced rolls, rice teased from a cling lm-lined bamboo pot green curry that you always order, some sticky Occasionally, your belly cries out for the same sweetbreads or deep-fried whole sea bass. your mind blown by black pepper lamb sometimes you don’t necessarily want to have And And this principleguiding of subtly On the face of it Kin  Deum, a new Thai place of pub pad Thai to the robust described as a shi from stodgy plates intricacies of Thai cuisine — broadly ondon’s collective awakening to the FOOD AMBIENCE

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(020 7357 7995; kindeum.com) 2 Crucifix London Lane, Bridge, SE1 DEUM + KIN BrnTa o e £3.50 TOTAL Cappuccino £5.50 1 Thai Boran coff ee 1 nuts cashew Banana 1 brownie Coconut £11.50 1 curry Bank’s massaman £8.50 1 Fried egg £5.90 1 Bangkok’s gra pow 1 £5.90 spring Shiitake rolls £6.50 1 Grilled chicken skewers £6 1 Siam’s aubergine 1 East London Liquor gin 1 Singha beer 2

£72.80 £2.50 £9 £6 £2 Inngerns) were not available but Siam’s aubergine, seemed an obvious innovation from the younger prompted diplomatic incident waiting to happen, (which, as well as sounding like a Jamie Oliver- spring rolls were hot and delicate . Spicy Thai hewn,tacos chilli-rich peanut dip. Shiitake mushroom succulent chicken skewers served with a rough- gin cocktail for Charlie) we eased in with gnarly, workload) emerging as the dominant tribe. manner that suggests a forgiving aernoon worker (noisily excited, re lling wine glasses in a middle ground has never looked so appetising. soothes and it heartens, even as it educates. The with air, care and the odd unexpected ourish. and Ita menu that, while playing the hits, does so independent place with a warm-glow backstory But, of course, none of this mattered. Here is an the sort of thing unlikely to set Instagram aame. shaped plates, coee served in glass tankards) was bearing the outline of an upended bowl, retro leaf- much. Presentation throughout (mounds of rice crushed cashews with honey cream were not up to and a simple gathering of grilled banana and with everything at home. eggs, on the menu simply because she eats them come back for the dinner-only crispy tamarind Gathering our plates, Roselyn recommended we clouds of simmered potato and tender meat . cooked bowl thick with cashew nuts, buttery knockout; a powerfully fragrant, patiently visible on our visit — and it was even more of a named aer head chef smileyBank, and very Charlie had Bank’s massaman curry with beef — crown of a ash-fried egg. I insist you do this. of jasmine rice with a gooey-centred golden waitress’s suggestion, I chose to top my side order endlessly by the fact that, on our attentive forceful heat and necessary sweetness, improved and vegetables. It oered a well-drilled dance of mains I went for Bangkok’s gra pow with tofu ery breadcrumb, meant we didn’t miss them. a crispy half of chopped, soly steamed veg in a “Occasionally, your belly cries out Armed with drinks (a Singha for me, a zingy Puddings of squidgy warm coconut brownie an Running eye over the equally approachable for the same green curry that you always order” 28.09.18 28.09.18 ES MAGAZINE ES 65

feast tart london Jemima Jones and Lucy Carr-Ellison swap steak for a meaty, marinated portobello sandwich

Nice plums: Lucy tucks into the best of autumn’s bounty

Jemima Jones (left) and Lucy Carr-Ellison

ushrooms are one of the true pleasures of autumn. We love the idea of stomping off to the woods on a Saturday with basket in hand, M like a true forager. In reality, we probably wouldn’t find anything and if we did, we’d be far too afraid to pick it. Imagine the headlines the next day about the fool who ate a poisonous mushroom on Hampstead Heath. So instead, we go to our local greengrocer to root through the many different varieties then head home to brush off the dirt and throw them into a hot pan with butter, garlic and parsley. We love portobello mushrooms. Specifically, serves 2 portobello mushroom sandwich marinated in garlic and tarragon then simply Bunch of tarragon, chopped barbecued or grilled, they taste so meaty that we Olive oil Put the tarragon in a bowl, cover with olive oil would happily take them over a steak any day. 4 portobello mushrooms and season. Place the mushrooms in a large bowl 3 garlic cloves, peeled and Here we have used them as part of a proper, thinly sliced and scatter over the garlic. Spoon over the slightly decadent meal that can easily be vegan 1 red onion, peeled and sliced tarragon oil, reserving a little for later, and rub into wedges if you replace the cheese with avocado. Biting 3 sprigs of rosemary into the mushrooms with your hands. Leave to into this sandwich is a real moment of 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar marinate. Heat a little olive oil in a pan and add 2 ciabatta rolls flavourful happiness. Charred mushrooms, Large handful of rocket the red onion wedges, breaking up with a spoon sweet onions, salty Roquefort — dreamy. On 60g wedge of Roquefort, as you go. Add the rosemary and sauté for about cut in two a lazy Sunday morning, perhaps a little 1 red chilli, seeds removed and 5 minutes until the onion starts to colour. Pour in hungover, this is heaven. thinly sliced the balsamic vinegar so it hisses then turn down the heat and continue to cook for at least 10 minutes. Take off the heat. Light the BBQ or grill and when hot, whack on the mushrooms and leave for 4–5 minutes until dark gold. Turn and cook until they’re shrunken and flat. Remove from the heat and slice. Cut the ciabatta in half, drizzle with oil and grill for 1 minute on each side. To serve, place the bottom half of the roll on a board and pile it with red onions, followed by the rocket and then the mushrooms. Drizzle over the remaining tarragon oil, add a slab of cheese and a sprinkle of chilli then close the sandwich. Josh ShinnerJosh

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Lounge bar: Genuine Liquorette’s FEAST Matt Roberts; In the below, one of its cocktails MIX Douglas Blyde pops open a bubbly bottle of… boozy tea his is one of the discoveries of our time, and a wonderfully ‘T disruptive drink to bring to a dinner party,’ says Fortnum & Mason’s Oscar Dodd, withdrawing a fat bottle of lightly alcoholic Copenhagen Sparkling Tea from a water-beaded ice bucket. We are in F&M’s limed-oak tasting room. The feature windows overlook the busy Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon where ‘tearistas’ take picking brew times and Mix and dash temperatures very seriously. Representing, says Dodd, a Cocktails to go are upping dinner combination of ‘Scandi nous, proper party spirits, says Frankie McCoy leaves from across Asia’ and aromatic white wine, ‘which carries the tea’, it o here’s a fun idea. Next time you took Denmark-based wine importer generously agree to host a dinner Bo Sten Hansen and Nordic champion party for your best and booziest of Under the bartender’s guidance you can sommelier Jacob Kocemba eight years to friends, how about you shelve the go all George’s Marvellous Medicine on your refine their recipes. S fizz or wine and kick it off with some freshly own special brew, which is then poured into Dodd, who jokes he was raised on made, cleverly crafted cocktails to get a bottle that doubles as a cocktail shaker. his grandma’s preferred potion of everyone suitably riotous? ‘But I’m a terrible You also get vacuum-packed garnishes and a ‘Campari, orange and angostura’, bartender!’ you cry. ‘Last time I tried to recipe card, plus info on allergens and ABV. believes effervescent teas ‘tick the boxes make cocktails we ended up drinking warm In a rush? There are six taps of readymade of what a wine drinker wants’. I try gin with UHT orange juice.’ ‘All Star’ cocktails from which to fill a hibiscus-tinted ‘Rød’ (red) — its cork You need to outsource. Specifically, takeaway bottle, including a herbaceous, released with ceremonial pop — which you need new Fitzrovia bar and bottle celery-spiked Gimlet (‘quaffable and evokes the salmon pink hue of a shop Genuine Liquorette, named bracing’, says Roberts). It will be Provence rosé. Fusing 10 flushes of white after the hip New York bar which collaborating with other London and black teas, it bears flavours of dark inspired its Cha-Chunker bars to create a ‘compass’ of the fruits and a tannic hint within its micro- cocktails (miniature bottles of city’s best drinks on tap. And if bubbles. Perfect with berry-led puddings spirit upended into cans of soft you’re local, you can even get or spicy shrimp. drink, with some extra wizardry them delivered. Meanwhile, Grøn (green) blends added to create some very clever Pre-made cocktails aren’t seven teas, including green, with cocktails indeed) upstairs. But new, but there are some dire lemongrass and ginger. Its perfume is it’s the downstairs bottle shop that options out there. As Roberts surprisingly shy given the ingredients, you’ll need pre-dinner party. A Genuine Liquorette puts it: ‘It’s always a category of with a crisp, mineral, vinous palate. The Because here we have London’s first Cha-Chunker cocktail 10 drinks that have been dumbed tea star of the show for me, it is also cocktail deli, where you can have a down for the consumer.’ An excellent with sushi. Blå (blue) is the bartender blend fresh juices, bitters, liqueurs exception to the rule is the Long Flint, most virtuous of the collection. An and spirits to create up to six servings of which collaborates with local spirit-makers aperitif-style sharpener, it confidently your custom cocktail (from £10 per person). such as East London Liquor Company on its comprises 13 teas including chamomile, Think of it as a booze version of Ottolenghi. gorgeous bottles of pre-made Negroni jasmine and Darjeeling — but no alcohol. ‘Say you’ve got a dinner party going on Sbagliato and grapefruit, sour cherry and As well as bringing something more to this evening, there’s six of you and you need mezcal Palomas. And if you’ve got multiple the afternoon tea ritual, Dodd believes an aperitif and a digestif. You like gin and a spirit bottles knocking around but can’t be sparkling teas afford drinkers social couple of people like tequila,’ explains bothered with the faff of recipes, try currency. ‘Anyone can boast they drank general manager Matt Roberts. ‘All the Tipplesworth: pre-made espresso Martinis the best champagne over the weekend, drinks are broken down into boozy, juicy and and Garden Collins to which you simply add but here’s something different: chic fizzy. Whichever option you choose dictates a slug of vodka or gin. Be prepared: dinner Danish sparkling tea…’ £16-18

Jonny Cochrane;Jonny glassware waterford.co.ukavailable at the “journey” you’ll be taken through.’ parties just got that bit more spirited. (fortnumandmason.com)

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HOMEWORK Tony Chambers on the exciting new talent coming to the PAD design fair, the arrival of Parisian spectacle-maker Robert Bonnet and a sleek new back-to-basics phone

Flash PAD THE pROducT Some of the most sophisticated ow quickly the merry-go-round of art and luminaries of the 20th century design fairs seems to turn. As the world wore glasses handcrafted by descends on London again for PAD, the Robert Bonnet at his atelier in 20th-century art, design and decorative art Paris — think Le Corbusier, Jackie Kennedy Onassis and H fair, I am excited by the range of new exhibitors and Jacques Chirac. With the emerging talent coming to Berkeley Square. fourth generation of Bonnets Achille Salvagni, who mixes a modernist aesthetic with now at the helm, Maison Bonnet continues to make that of his Roman heritage, is making his PAD debut with bespoke eyewear signifying a booth inspired by Africa’s Sahara. He is introducing a influence and discreet luxury new edition of his best-known Spider chandelier in a cobalt for its loyal clientele. This blue. 18 Davies Street Gallery is new to PAD and, among month it opened a boutique atelier conceived by celebrated other attractions, has a rare Hans Wegner cupboard on French artist Pierre Bonnefille display. The ‘crocodile cabinet’ was carved by the master at 7 Stafford Street in Mayfair. cabinet-maker A Mikael Laursen and produced for the ancis Upritcha Carvers’ Guild (Billedskærerlauget) Competition in 1950. : Fr rd ve ur THE pERsOn The piece, which retains traces of the carver’s tools, is C e New Zealand-born, London-based artist h t considered one of Wegner’s best. f Francis Upritchard is known for her o d As ever, Gallery Fumi delights with new works from its a mythical, often unnerving figurative e h sculptures, from medieval knights roster of artists and designers including Max Lamb, Lara A to meditating hippies. Now she has Bohinc, Glithero and my favourite, Rowan Mersh. The created a series for the Barbican’s British sculptor was honoured with the Best Contemporary Curve gallery that uses a range of Design award two years ago at PAD for his Asabikeshiinh materials including ceramics, tapestry and blown glass; colour and texture shifts as (Ojibwe for dreamcatcher) screen made entirely of sliced you move through the unique 90-metre- turritella shells. It took Mersh months to assemble the long space. Francis Upritchard: Wetwang 5,000 cut shells and his new expansive wall artworks are Slack, 27 Sep to 6 Jan (barbican.org.uk) equally labour intensive.

“ There is a greater focus on collectable THE ExpERiEncE jewellery this year, reflecting the Bookshop Day returns on 6 October as part of the annual Books Are My Bag campaign momentum the category is gaining celebrating UK bookshops. Events include at global art fairs” a book surgery at Wellcome Collection where you can have your next read prescribed by dedicated ‘book doctors’, Nature-inspired design can also be found at Peter Petrou. while daring indie shops including Moon The gallery’s booth is conceived as a cabinet of curiosities Lane Books and Dulwich Books will be run with pieces by Danish glass-blower Steffen Dam and Irish by children for the day. Get your hands on one of the limited-edition bags designed by artist and sculptural furniture-maker Sasha Sykes. Her 40- Sir Peter Blake (right). (booksaremybag.com) panel Gyre (from the Sea) screen features transparent resin squares containing seaweed. There is a also greater focus on collectable jewellery this year, reflecting the momentum the category is gaining at global art fairs. Look out for the new THE TEcHnOlOgy jewellery galleries showing Walid Akkad, Lorenz Baümer, The original disruptor of the smartphone market, Punkt has released its second mobile G by Glenn Spiro and Objet D’Émotion — Valery Demure. phone, the MP 02. Designed by Jasper Other highlights include the playful work of French Morrison, it is built quite simply around making designer Arthur Hoffner at Sèvres, where he reinvents the calls, has great ergonomics, promises excellent audio quality and will never pester you with indoor water fountain; Ingrid Donat’s solo show at Carpenters notifications. Punkt’s founder, Petter Neby, says Workshop Gallery; and Hervé van der Straeten’s spectacular it’s a ‘phone that sits above all of my digital geometric consoles. With 68 galleries exhibiting (10 new devices, a kind of gatekeeper’. While it does this year) from 12 countries, PAD is the most comprehensive have 4G LTE and internet tethering features, it’s a true antidote to technology overload. survey of the fruitful cross-pollination of design and art. Punkt. MP 02 phone, £295 (punkt.ch)

Chris Floyd Chris Tickets £25. 1-7 Oct (pad-fairs.com)

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Old as the hills: Kyotos’s Kiyomizu- dera temple is one escape of Buddhism’s most sacred sites

Across the pond: a Four Seasons garden-view room

WHeRe TO sTaY Located in the historic Higashiyama district, the Four SeaSonS has been sumptuously constructed around an WHAT TO SEE 800-year-old pond garden. The rooms, The sheer number of historical sites in some of which offer magnificent views Kyoto, from shrines and temples to of the serene gardens, are modern but gardens and museums, can be retain distinctive nods to traditional Rise and overwhelming. Best hire a local guide. Japanese design (all channelling the Inside Japan has the idea of wabi-sabi, or the perfection of shrine best — many of Tori Gate imperfection). While there is nothing A trip to Japan’s ancient capital, Kyoto, is the only whom have lived subtle about the public spaces — way to truly appreciate the unique and heady world and worked in the impossibly high ceilings, gloriously of holy temples, Japanese haute cuisine and the country for years. extravagant floral displays designed by national reverence for tea. By Dipal Acharya Our guide, Richard, Nicolai Bergmann — the tranquil was studying for a setting ensures these features don’t PhD in Buddhist feel overwrought. The in-house sushi philosophy and expertly navigated SuShi Wakon restaurant, , is run by us to less-visited temples celebrated chef Rei Masuda of Tokyo’s (SanjuSangen-do, which houses Sushi Masuda and recently won a 1,001 statues of the goddess of mercy, Michelin star (but be warned: it only Kannon, was a particular highlight) does 10 covers every evening). and provided much-needed Dipal Acharya was a guest of the commentary on some of the exotic Four Seasons. Rooms from £490 per Have mercy: the 1,001 statues of Kannon at Sanjusangen-do temple local delicacies on offer atn iShiki night (fourseasons.com/kyoto) Food market, where you’ll find everything from mochi ice cream to CiTY WHERE TO EAT dried tofu. Don’t leave without visiting CheCklisT Kyoto is a gastronomic dream, where both high- the Geisha district, gion, which also end and low-fuss sit cheek by jowl. pontocho hosts the famous minamiza kabuki Book Street, a narrow alley in the old city, is straddled theatre. Inside Japan can organise Convenience Store by a dizzying array of restaurants offering Woman by Sayaka private guiding for any of its tailor- Murata, £12.99 everything from formal kaiseki meals (Japanese made trips (insideasiatours.com) (amazon.co.uk) haute-cuisine) to more homely tempura-style haunts. Looking for a noodle fix? dress Visit gogyo for the burnt soy SIMONE ROCHA WHeRe TO DRINK Embroidered midi sauce ramen (right), and Tea is a big deal in Kyoto. At dress, £1,995, at net- Omen for unguent udon ippodo (a tea company a-porter.com accompanied by a delicious that dates back to the dipping sauce. 1700s) get an introduction to the delicate and structured WHeRe TO DaYTRIp ritual of a traditional tea ceremony. Elsewhere, the local shoes oSaka is like Japan’s own Las gin scene is taking off and PLAY x CONVERSE Vegas, and home to other trainers, £110, at craft distilleries are popping national dishes including doverstreetmarket.com up all over town, with the okonomiyaki (a pancake of kyoto diStillery leading Bag shredded cabbage, egg and the charge. Try some at MULBERRY Harlow meat topped with lashings of satchel, £1,595 the basement bar of the mayonnaise) and takoyaki (mulberry.com) Kyoto tower (right).

Alamy;Getty (grilled octopus balls).

Leg it: Osaka’s Dōtonbori Street my london Mishal husain as told to dipal acharya

the halwa puri (while avoiding Home is… thinking about your arteries). Camden (for the best part of the past 20 years) with my husband, What are you up to right now? Meekal, and our three sons. Thinking ahead to interviewing the Prime Minister at the What was the last play Conservative Party Conference you saw? and promoting my first book, The whole family plus my on workplace skills for women. mother-in-law went to see The Importance of Being Earnest at the Vaudeville (below) a few weeks ago. Great fun, especially for the one child who didn’t already know the ending and was thus extra-delighted when the true identity of the handbag’s occupant was revealed.

Favourite shops? Amici on the High Road in East Finchley for the best coffee in town; Trunk Clothiers on Chiltern Street when I need a gift for my husband; The Cloth The BBC presenter indulges in the halwa puri Shop (above) on Portobello Bus, taxi or Tube? at Nagina, buys fabric at The Cloth Shop and Road for fabric; and Indian Tube, particularly as I am now a would donate her body to science Spice Shop on Drummond minute’s walk from my nearest Street for spices and in summer, station. But also taxi — of both for Pakistani mangoes. the Uber and black cab variety. What makes appeared from someone a nowhere and gave Who’s your professional hero? Best place for a first date? Londoner? me three points One of the first women who My dating knowledge is a little Knowing at on my licence, inspired me was Helena historic but Columbia Road which end of rightly taking Kennedy QC (below), after I Flower Market on a Sunday the Tube no notice of my read her ‘A Life in the Day’ at morning, or Granary Square platform to protestations. I the back of The Sunday Times and a walk by the canal at stand, in order to have never been Magazine when I was about 15. King’s Cross. make the swiftest exit tempted to stop on a I wrote to her and to my delight, at your destination station. zigzag since. she wrote back. I went into Where do you work out? journalism in the end rather Mostly at home, with the help Best thing a cabbie has said What’s your London than law but I still of my trainer, Jon Durrant. to you? secret? remember that piece as a He does drag me out into the ‘You look younger than you do Weekend brunch at light-bulb moment that park on occasion. on the telly.’ Nagina, a Pakistani gave me a picture of a restaurant on Ilford professional woman’s life Where would you like to Ever had a run-in with a Lane. It used to be and work. be buried? policeman? a London cabbie I wouldn’t. Having seen the I was a fairly new driver favourite when it ‘The Skills: From First example set by my father, who when I stopped on a zigzag was based in Job to Dream Job’ by donated his body to science, I in the mid Nineties. A Whitechapel and it’s Mishal Husain (Fourth

would do the same. policeman on a motorbike still fantastic. Have Estate) is out now Crafer;RuthAlamy;Rex

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